Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail day by day experiences!

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa 2024.

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa, 2024.

Before departure

After a delightful drive from Kalahari Tented Camp, which is located just within the Mata Mata border crossing from Namibia to South Africa in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, we drive via Upper Dune Road to Nossob Rest Camp, where we are to meet the other participants for the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail. Together, we will embark on four days (three nights) of challenging 4x4 driving along a narrow track through the Kalahari dunes, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks. We will cover a total distance of 214km, with daily travel spanning approximately 50km to 60km.

I wonder who the other participants are? You get close to one another on such a trip, where you spend all your time together without any "escape routes" in the middle of the desert. However, based on our experience from many previous trips to Africa, it’s usually other like-minded and interesting people, who, like us, enjoy nature and an exciting challenge. It’s not exactly the charter tourist segment that joins this kind of expedition.

At the reception in Nossob Rest Camp, we are assigned our campsite, where participants gather the day before departure. Arriving at the campsite, we immediately meet the first couple from South Africa, among others who will be joining the tour. They come over right away, warmly welcoming us and asking if we wouldn’t bring our chairs and sit with them after we’ve set up the rooftop tent. It quickly turns out that they are incredibly nice people, and we end up having a great time together throughout the expedition.

Arrival at Nossob Rest Camp before Nossob 4x4
Eco Trail, my wife opens the gate!
South Africa, 2024.

Three more vehicles from South Africa join us shortly after. They are also very friendly people, part of a larger family group who are on the trip together – a really great idea.

In the evening, just before sunset, our guide from SANParks (South African National Parks), Thys Burger, stops by to say a quick hello. He informs us that we should be ready for a briefing and departure the next morning at 8:30 AM.

Ready for morning briefing before our 4 days
 / 3 nights adventure at Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2014.

The morning briefing proves to be a regular start to the day's program. Thys informs us about the route and safety. Always in a friendly and welcoming tone, engaging everyone, but leaving no doubt that he is in charge of the trip. For instance, the rules are: leave only footprints, always stay on the track, no music in the camp, remember sturdy shoes due to snakes and scorpions, etc. When we arrive at a camp or get out of the vehicles, the rule is that Thys always checks the area for dangers before we all step out. This is particularly about cats (hyenas, leopards, and lions). Thys always carries a rifle, and on previous expeditions, there have been large cats in the camps. After dark, if anyone needs to go to the long-drop toilet, they must wake Thys. No one walks alone in the dark. After dark, you must be especially cautious. For example, there are around 470 lions in Kgalagadi(!)

Lion on our way from Kalahari
Tented Camp to Nossob rest Camp
to join Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024. 

Lastly, we are all given radios so we can communicate while driving. Every day, the cars switch positions, with the front vehicle moving to the back. This way, everyone gets to drive both at the front and back. In practice, the order doesn’t matter much. Everyone can see everything – and there is plenty of intense 4x4 driving!

All got radios for communication,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024.

Day one / Swartbas Camp

Source: Tracks4Africa

1. day, on the way to Swartbas Camp,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024

From Nossob Rest Camp, we drive approximately 70 km north along the dry riverbed, where we catch the beginning of the trail. In odd-numbered months, the route is driven from north to south, while in even-numbered months, it's the opposite. As soon as we turn onto the trail and head south, we sense that we are now driving in a place where no one else will pass for the next 214 km! The desert views and dunes are breathtaking in every direction. Along the way, we make "discussion stops" where Thys tells us about the nature and wildlife of the Kalahari Desert. It’s incredibly fascinating to hear his stories, which reflect his deep knowledge and experience.

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, 1st day driving

After several hours of driving, we reach the first camp, Swartbas, which is sheltered by low dunes and has lovely shade trees. Everyone chooses a spot to park and set up their tents, but only on the condition that Thys can see your camp from his own tent. Read this interesting previous post about a leopard entering a rooftop tent (link post)!!

In the center, there are shade trees and a concrete slab designed for a braai (grill). Everyone grills in the same spot, and it creates a cozy atmosphere.

Our camp at Swartbas

About 50 meters away, there's an enclosure with a long-drop toilet, offering a free view of the bushes and desert while you do your business. There’s also an enclosure for a bucket shower. You heat up some water in a black bag using solar energy if you want a shower. The bag is then hung on a hook—again, with a clear view. You’re not allowed to shower after dark, for safety reasons due to the big cats. No one wants to break this rule. Flashlights scan the dark surroundings, searching for eyes in the night.

Swartbas long drop toilet with a view,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024.

We've parked our Land Cruiser a bit off to the side of the camp (but still within Thys's line of sight). In the evening, the moon rises before the sun sets, and there's the most spectacular sunset. Everyone gathers around the fire, grilling meat and vegetables, sharing stories from the day. We exchange experiences from the Kalahari Desert, South America, and Denmark. It’s incredibly exciting to gain insight into others' lifestyles in this way, intensified by the desert night and its sounds. Tonight, we don’t hear any dangerous animals and sleep peacefully.

Our Land Cruiser a bit off to the side of the Swartbas Camp,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa, 2024.

Everyone gathers around the fire,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024

Day two / Rosyntjiebos Camp

Dark green spot. Source: Tracks4Africa

The next day, we pass by a large "pan," a depression in the desert terrain where water collects the few times it rains. Here, we take a lunch break with a view, and as always, Thys keeps the rifle close at hand. Lunch breaks are yet another opportunity to exchange stories from the Kalahari and around the world.

Lunch break near large pan on the right, Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park, Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024 

Big Bertha Dune 

After lunch, we face the highest dune on the entire trip, called "Big Bertha." It’s a challenge that everyone who has driven the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail knows. Thys explains, before we tackle the towering dune, we need a good run-up with the car, preferably over 60 km/h, before starting the ascent in the soft sand!

The others are waiting for the "Danish couple"
on the top of Big Bertha while I am discussing
the best strategy. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, 
South Africa 2024.

We’re driving a very heavy Toyota Land Cruiser, loaded for a six-week trip in Africa, and I must admit that I don’t want to risk taking the sharp turn just before the dune at 60 km/h – despite trying five times! Once, we stranded just five meters from the top (video below). If the car slides in the curve before the dune and hits the high sand ridge on the side of the track, there’s a high risk that it could roll over with all the luggage, including diesel, water, and supplies for six weeks. It’s an unnecessary risk to take. If it had been life or death, I could have approached the dune directly without the turn, but that would mean making new tracks in the desert, which isn’t allowed, as the rule is no new tracks. Alternatively, we could have unloaded all the luggage, tackled the dune, and then fetched the baggage on foot! Instead, we take the detour around "Big Bertha," avoiding the long, steep dune. It's all the same. Only a few light bruises to my pride, but it was the only challenge we had to bypass among the many major 4x4 off-road adventures on the trip.

Nearly reaching the top!?

After Big Bertha, we spot many interesting plants at our “discussion stops,” and hear stories about the Bushmen and hyena droppings!

Our fantastic guide! Thys Burger from
SANParks. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024.

Spotted hyenas in the camp!

Finally, we reach the second camp, "Rosyntjiebos," which is very open in the landscape so that animals can’t sneak in. Nevertheless, a previous group had a visit from four lions at once. That information made all of us extra alert in the evening. Luckily, one of the other participants on the trip declared, "We must keep Doc (my nickname) alive." I thought that was a brilliant idea ;-)  Save the doctor for last.

Rosyntjiebos Camp, Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail.
South Africa, 2024.

At 5:10 AM, we’re suddenly awakened by two spotted hyenas in our camp. I am startled awake by their loud howls, not to mention Thys’ loud shouts to scare the hyenas away. It was undeniably a rude awakening – but also exciting in its own strange way. Afterward, my wife and I fell back to sleep again – though I waited to pee until it was fully light, even though it was much needed!

Hyena tracks around our camping
 table and car in Rosyntjiebos Camp.
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa 2024.

In the morning, we find hyena tracks around our camping table and car, and the hyenas have torn apart a towel. I ask Thys what wild animal he least wants to encounter in the camp? I would have guessed leopards. But Thys' ranking is spotted hyenas, leopards, and lions. Spotted hyenas are very cunning in the way they hunt in packs. They chase in coordination from multiple directions.

 

Day three / Witgab Camp

Last dark Green spot. 

Source: Tracks4Africa

A new day full of exciting experiences on the way to Witgab Camp. Among other things, we hike to the top of a large dune, where we can overlook the most beautiful hilly desert landscape with scattered bushes and a few trees. Thys calls the view "Little Serengeti." Shortly after we continue driving, we pass a gemsbok that had been killed by two lions the week before. There is almost nothing left but the skeleton. When Thys was driving through the trail a week ago, the lions were lying in the way, blocking the road!

gemsbok that had been killed by
 two lions the week before.

The landscape gradually changes, and it is now characterized by more uneven, scattered dunes, in contrast to the long dune ridges running NNW-SSE, which can stretch up to 200 km long. The more varied dunes make for some fun 4x4 driving experiences. You need all the gears. I prefer driving in L4 but only engage the differential lock a few times. Some drive in 4H and use fewer gears.

Scattered dunes driving

When we reach Camp 3, we spot lion tracks! Lions had visited the day before. We set up our tents/vehicles in a horseshoe-shaped ring, all with a view of a waterhole.

Lion track Witgab Camp at arrival.
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024

Once again, there’s a long drop toilet and bucket shower, but this time the bucket shower is hidden behind a dune, so the camp isn’t visible – a bit eerie when you want a bath, in case a big cat sneaks up and no one can see it. On the other hand, the view from the shower is incredible, and just like the other showers, it’s completely open on one side.

In the evening, there’s a bit of a melancholy feeling around the campfire, as it's the last night on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail. Thys makes the most delicious bread rolls over the fire, which we enjoy with a view of the most beautiful full blood moon over the camp and desert.

Campfire Witgab Camp, 
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, 
South Africa, 2024.

Just before bedtime, we hear lions and quickly rush to pack up for the night until Thys later informs us (!) that it was just an ostrich. Sounds can be deceiving.

The trail ends about 40 kilometers north of Twee Rivieren Rest Camp. Before that, we enjoy yet another beautiful drive, with a lunch break on the edge of a dune under a giant shepherd tree, whose roots impressively reach 65 meters into the ground!

Blog author and wife under giant shepherd tree,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa, 2024.

The Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail fully lived up to our expectations, not least due to the pleasant and knowledgeable ranger, Thys Burger. We will never forget him and this trip and will look back on it with great joy. We hope to return again – this time with a larger family or group of friends! Highly recommended!

Nossob 4×4 Eco Trail, a 214 km adventure in the desert!

The day after Tomorrow, we start on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail that winds its way between two of the most frequented rest camps within the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – Twee Rivieren and Nossob. We will leave the traditional riverbed route connecting the two camps, and drive through the undulating dunes of the South African sector of the park. We expect a an unforgettable adventure with a blend of new 4x4 experience and excitement in combination with wildlife encounters.

The trail that winds its way
 between the undulating dunes for 214 km

The trail requires four days (three nights) of challanging 4x4 driving on a small trach through the Kalahari dunes, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks. We will cover a total distance of 214km, with daily travel spanning approximately 50km to 60km.

Tracks4Africa App map.
You can see the three campsites

The wilderness campsites

We are going to spend the night at three distinct campsites, the three green tents on the map above, from the top:

• Swartbas
• Rosyntjiebos
• Witgat

These campsites are rugged and compleetely unfenced, blending seamlessly into the wilderness of the Kgalagadi. They only provide very basic amenities such as long-drop toilets and bucket showers, akin to other wilderness camps in the park. Throughout the trail, we will be responsible for our own meals and drinking water and must bring ample supplies of food and water to survvive the four-day journey in the dunes.

Also, we have to bring our own firewood and braai equipment (grids etc.)

Sunset yesterday, Mata Mata Restcamp,
South Africa, 2024.

Optimal timing for trail travel?

September is an ideal time to embark on the trail, as it falls within the spring/early summer period. Generally, consider going during March/April/May or September/October/November.

If you consider to go, please note, it's essential to have a 4x4 vehicle with low range capability; otherwise, you will not be permitted to undertake the trail. However, a differential lock is not required. Adjust your tire pressure to 1.5 bar or below and ensure you carry sufficient fuel for at least 300km, considering the heavier fuel consumption typical of 4x4 trails. Both Nossob and Twee Rivieren have filling stations. Additionally, it is highly recommended to protect your vehicle against grass and grass seeds. There have been instances of grass seeds infiltrating radiators, leading to vehicle fires in the Kgalagadi.

Blogauthor, adjusting the tyre pressure
Namibia, 2024.

You can find a lot of practical information about the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail on this homepage Link And the formal Sanparks page Link

We will post a full day by day experience report, when we are done with the trail and have internet again. 

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - a natureserve the size of Denmark!

Kgalagadi, a hidden gem in Kalahari Desert 

Son relaxing at Gharagab Wilderness Camp,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015.

Everything is just bigger in Africa. Today, we are at the Mata Mata border post about to venture into Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, a vast wildlife preserve and conservation area in southern Africa nearly the size of Denmark at 38,000 square kilometers! We are in the border area between Namibia, Botswana, and South Africa. The park is largely situated within the southern Kalahari Desert, characterized by impressive and beautiful red dunes, sparse vegetation, occasional trees, and the hallmarks — the dry riverbeds of the Nossob and Auob Rivers. These rivers are said to flow only about once per century. However, water flows underground, providing life for grass and trees growing in riverbeds. Additionally, the rivers may flow briefly after large thunderstorms.

Sparse vegetation, occasional trees,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015.

In 2015, my son and I took a father-son trip to the area (link post). I fell completely in love with the area and promised myself that I would return with my wife in the future. And now we are here, very excited to visit the park and try the Nossob Eco 4x4 trail, popular among 4x4 enthusiasts (see later posts).

Wildlife and predetors

Ostriches, Kgalagadi, 2015.

We also look forward to enjoying the nature and wildlife. According to Wiki, Kgalagadi has abundant wildlife with over 470 documented species, including large predators such as lions, cheetahs, leopards, spotted hyenas, and brown hyenas. But also smaller mammals including African wildcats, bat-eared foxes, Cape foxes, black-backed jackals, caracals, genets, honey badgers, as well as meerkats and mongooses.

Brown hyenas, Kgalagadi, 2015. 

Cape fox, Kgalagadi, 2015

My son and I saw many interesting species last time we visited and had the "pleasure" of lions outside the tent (link blog).

Lions, Kgalagadi, 2015

You can also see large ungulates [hovdyr], such as blue wildebeests, gemsboks, springboks, steenboks, southern giraffes, common elands, greater kudus, warthogs, klipspringers, and red hartebeests.

It is also a bird lover's paradise, Kgalagadi, 2015.

And over 30 reptile and amphibian species, including venomous snakes such as the Cape cobra, horned adder, puff adder, and black mamba. So watch where you walk and what you touch! You also find, for example, leopard tortoises, various agamas, geckos, sand frogs, and African bullfrogs.

Since 2005, the protected area has been considered a Lion Conservation Unit and a lion stronghold in Southern Africa. Fortunately, we are in a rooftop tent, but even that is not a 100% guarantee, as you can read in this "scary" post (link blog).

The Weather

We are visiting in September and expect a mean temperature of 18°C (64°F) with lows/highs of 8-29°C. However, extremes measured are between -5 and 38°C, respectively! See climate data for Kgalagadi at this link (link). And come prepared with plenty of water and the right equipment. Also, because help might be hours to days away given it's a wilderness the size of Denmark

Facilities

Kalahari Tented Camp, Kgalagadi, 2015.

First of all, book well in advance! There are very few places to stay in the park, and they sell out one year in advance the moment they are released. Join the Kgalagadi Facebook groups to learn the tricks of securing accommodation. You can stay in the three tourist lodges called "rest camps," which are serviced lodges with amenities such as air conditioning, shops, and swimming pools. Alternatively, and much better in my opinion, opt for the reasonably priced wilderness camps in the park. The wilderness camps provide excellent shelter; for example, see our experiences and pictures from Gharagab (link blog) and Grootkolk (link blog). You have to supply your own food, drinking water, and firewood! (Basically everything). Read more about the park and booking at Sanparks link

Source: Kgalagadi_map.pdf (sanparks.org)

The safe rooftop tent?! Lions and leopards

 Woken up by lion roars outside the tent at night!

Lion, Blog author & son, Kgalagadi 2015

 

Lion, Blog author & son, Kgalagadi 2015

In 2012, my wife and I were sleeping in a ground tent at desolate "Sunday Pan" in Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Our two children Thea and Laust were sleaping in the rooftop tent on the top of the Land Rover. Suddently, we were woken up by lion roars in the middle of the night!!

It's 4 in the morning. We've finally fallen into deep sleep after today's exertions and after lying awake listening to all the sounds around the tent. The children are sleeping soundly on the roof of the car. They talked for a long time before they fell asleep. We are completely alone in the world in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. As far out on the edge as one can get in this world. Suddenly we are wide awake!! Lion roars sound far too clear only about 200 meters west of the tent – there are many of them. We think of the huge Kalahari lions that we've just seen at the Graasslands Safari Lodge. "Did you hear that?" I ask softly. "Yes!," my wife Pia replies. There's no need to say more. We just lay completely still and try to breathe without making a sound. It's a good thing the children didn't wake up – it's a bad time to call for parents with lions outside. Minutes pass, seemingly without them getting any closer. After about an hour, I hear the lions again, now south of the tent. They're a bit further away. Glad it's the last night in the Central Kalahari. It's too extreme... 

Again in 2015, on a father-son trip to the Kalahari Desert, my son and I were woken up by lions outside the tent. This time we were in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in a wilderness camp called 'Gharagab.' We were a bit calmer this time, but it still sounds quite terrifying! You can read this story here (Lions outside the tent link) 

This time, we went for the safe rooftop tent option!?

 

Bushlore vehicle with roof top tent

This is exactely one of the reasons we decided to go for a rooftop tent for our 2024 expedition. We thought it would be more safe than the ground tent - or that was untill we read Gavin Allderman´s recent horifying experience in Kgalaghadi - the first place we head after arriving in Namibia! 

Suddently, the rooftop tent did not seem that safe anymore. 

Read his nerve-racking story!: 

"The leopard attack [in the rooftop tent]" by Gavin Allderman (source)

From FaceBook

 

We were camping at Bosobogolo camp number 2 at the beginning of March 2024. The summer had started wet and promising for this arid landscape, but the rains had abated, the stark veld suffering the consequences of the harsh onslaught of 40° plus temperatures and searing winds. Thankfully the temperature on our second day had abated so it was comparatively mild, topping in the mid 30s, with protective cloud, - a day for relaxing and reading.A glorious spectacular sunset heralded another beautiful evening, the barking geckos, jackals and other night sounds wafted on the air. 

After a little braai we packed up camp, securing all our equipment (we had heard lions in the distance the previous night). Jill showered and got into the  rooftop tent. I was just finishing showering when I noticed an animal in the murky edges of the circle of light. I yelled “Jill, a leopard”, but in the low light had doubts and thought it could perhaps be a cheetah….. big mistake! 

 

We meet a leopard in Chobe National Park, 
But on safe distance!
Botswana, 2019.

 

I hurriedly secured our motion sensor lights around the Hilux and clambered up into the tent.  We zipped up the gauze insect protective coverings and, feeling secure, lay in bed reading. We were aware of the animal circling the vehicle by virtue of the motion sensor lights being triggered and at one point we were aware that the ‘cheetah’ had crawled under the bakkie, only its tail visible. In the glimpses we caught, we could see the animal was completely emaciated and gaunt. 

I started feeling uneasy - this was unusual activity, and thought “thank goodness we are in a rooftop tent”.

Eventually we dozed off into slumberland. It must’ve been around 10 pm. 

At about 01:30 I jerked awake having heard movement on the ladder. Sitting bolt upright, instantly wide awake, I peered down the ladder and saw the animal climbing up. I shouted ”he’s coming up the ladder”! Screaming  and swearing was no deterrent as he scrambled up and launched himself onto the gauze of the tent, his claws gripping the thin fabric with his head inches from my face. I started punching at it furiously in the face with all my might. I realized we were now bare fisted fighting for our lives. Both of us were shouting and screaming, Jill from behind me, hitting with a pillow at its paws, and then with her book. Every now and again the animal pulled its head back in a terrifying gesture as if to attack and bite through the gauze. At these moments I concentrated on punching his claws. I became aware that there was blood spattering in copious amounts, but just carried on punching and shouting, adrenaline coursing through my body in this fight for life.  Terrifyingly during the whole attack there wasn’t a sound from the animal, just its jagged breathing as it concentrated on the assault. There was no flight option at this point. The terror is palatable as I write this. I must have punched at least 30 times, using all my energy.

Eventually the animal fell back and we realised we had a temporary “stay of execution “!

My hand was bleeding profusely.  Jill took off a pillow slip which we hurriedly wrapped around it to try and stem the flow of blood. 

Panting and shaking from this terrifying experience which lasted at least a minute, we considered our options. We had to get into the vehicle, but how? While we pondered we heard what sounded like the animal jumping on the bonnet! It seemed like a horror movie! We would be fighting for our lives the night through! When the animal reappeared at the foot of the ladder we sprayed it with water from a spray bottle we had with us…. this was not much of a deterrent but a mild distraction. Jill came up with the suggestion of pulling the ladder in. As I opened the gauze to do this, the animal reappeared attacking the bottom of the ladder as I swung it at him. Eventually we got the ladder in with the tent zipped up - but What now? We definitely had to get into the vehicle, only how? I could either dash down the ladder and confront the beast using the ladder as a weapon, or stealthily creep down the ladder on the opposite side of the bakkie as the animal was now in the A frame hungrily plotting his next move. The latter was a less grizzly option as long as the front left door was not locked (a lousy Toyota anomaly). 

Before I over considered this scary option,  I opened the tent on the opposite side, slipped down the ladder, my heart pounding in my chest, and into the vehicle which thank God was open. Jill hauled the ladder in, shouting to ask if I was ok, but I couldn’t hear her,  She was relieved when she saw the headlights illuminating as I slid into the drivers seat. Shaking with shock, adrenaline and  with the exertions of pounding at the beast’s face with all my might for a lengthy period, I thought at least now we have a chance as I started the Toyota.

Yelling to Jill to find out if she was ok, I reversed, blood dripping everywhere. I  drove the vehicle towards it in an attempt to chase it,  then drove slowly to camp number 2 about 3 kms away, all the while yelling to Jill if she was ok and telling her to shine backward down the road to make sure the animal wasn’t following us. 

At the other campsite I nervously alighted and got Jill down from the RTT [roof top tent].

The pillow slip was by now soaked in blood. We gingerly pulled it open expecting to see a shredded hand, but to our surprise all that blood came from a single, pretty deep scratch at the base of my ring finger. Phew….relief! Nurse Jill applied her skills, we washed my hand in a dettol solution, dried it and put on bandages and antiseptics … things were at last looking up. All this time we were nervously keeping our eyes open as we suspected it may be coming after its injured prey. 

We slowly drove back towards our camp.  In the headlights, there it was….unmistakably a gaunt, highly compromised leopard. My skin crawled as realization set in that we had just, with our fists,  driven off this killer animal! 

We took some iPhone pictures before she ducked away and disappeared into the dark bush.

At the camp, sitting in the Hilux talking about the incident, we realized just  how lucky we had been. We were suffering now from post traumatic stress so I quickly jumped out and retrieved a bottle of whisky which we sipped neat to calm our jangld nerves.

What a night! We realized once again we were lucky to be alive. 

The following morning we packed up camp and drove to Mabua gate to report the incident. At the gate we met a French couple, both vets, who very kindly redressed my wound and gave advice regarding rabies and tetanus shots. After consulting doctors we realized I needed an anti tetanus shot. We washed our bloodied sheets at the game scout camp and then set off to Lesholoago camp hoping it would be unoccupied - fortunately it was.

That evening DWNP game scouts arrived to check on us. 

The next day we drove around the Pans hoping to find a doctor amongst the campers. Amazingly there was a group at Mphaya who had an anti tetnus shot - what a relief!

We reported the incident to the SANPARKS when we arrived at Nossob few days later.. 

This was such an unexpected, terrifying and horrific experience which is taking time to assimilate. However one must accept that visiting the wild is a highly risky activity. I have been going to Mabua for 43 years, almost every year and sometimes 2 or 3 times a year, so regard myself as reasonably experienced. I have always carried an axe and a divers knife into the tent with me, but the recent acquisition of a rooftop tent has made me feel safer so I have let this practise slip. Big mistake! If we had straight away recognized the animal as a leopard, I would have been more alert and cautious. A compromised animal is a far more dangerous risk as we all know. 

I am glad we stayed on for five extra nights; it helped come to terms with the incident."

Our own leopard experience on walking safari 2022

"Did you see the leopard passing the road?" asks our guide Bruno. We are on our first walking safari shortly after arriving at Mundulea Camp. Earlier, on the way to the camp, I reassured my wife, "No visitors have ever seen cats [leopard, lion, and cheetah] in this area, it should be quite safe." Fortunately, the second argument I gave for undertaking this adventure still holds: "They cannot run a business if tourists are eaten all the time." After our new information about the leopard, we keep a tighter formation, walking one by one in the dense bush, and no one really wants to be the last person in the row. Read on and see all the pictures from Mundulea Camp (link) 

Later the same night, we were sitting around the fire when our guide told us an interesting story about "the tiger [leopard] in the tree". Read on (link) 

 

We also meet a leopard in Chobe National Park,
but on safe distance!
Botswana, 2019.

Namibia 2024 itinerary "Deserts and wilderness"

Proverb 

"Camp sites fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember sometimes a particular bend of your wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as if it were a significant landmark in your life"

 Karen Blixen (Isak Dinesen) in "Out of Africa", 1937

Me and my wifes campsite, Trekking on our own in
Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997. 

Daughter, son and wife at campsite,
Little Hunter´s Rest, Tiras Mountains,
Namibia, 2009.

Planning the trip is half the pleasure!

Over the years, it has become a beloved hobby to plan self-drive trips in Africa and write this travel blog. When I plan the trips, I am already in Africa! And I relive our many previous adventures! Such a joy.

Namibia 2024, planning phase
at home in Copenhagen

In the planning phase, I love to explore maps, guidebooks, the internet, FB travel groups, and TripAdvisor. Until recently, I used ExpertAfrica.com in the UK for bookings and car hire (and once used SafariDrive.com). These UK-based travel agents, especially ExpertAfrica, are perfect if you can accept their fine trip suggestions with just a few individual modifications. 

However, now that it’s our 6th trip to this part of Africa, and we have visited many places and have our own opinions on where to stay and go, I found it more useful to book the Toyota Land Cruiser directly through Bushlore.com and use their bookings department in Johannesburg for securing campsites, lodges, etc., based on our own itinerary. In addition, I booked directly on my own where there was a good online booking system such as "Nightsbridge." This has worked very well—the final test will, of course, be when we arrive in Windhoek in September!

Why this "deserts and wilderness route"? 

This time, the focus is camping in deserts and wilderness, venturing from southeast to northwest! It's an unusual route reflecting that it’s our 6th trip to Namibia and the fact that we love remote desert landscapes! Also, the route reflects that we have to meet our Danish friends at Bagatelle Guest Farm south of Windhoek 14 days after our own arrival. This will be their first trip to Africa! Furthermore, we prebooked the Nossob 4x4 Wilderness Trail one year in advance (it gets sold out immediately after bookings opens) as it has been a long dream of mine to visit Kgalagadi again after a fantastic experience with my son years ago (Link to father son trip) and to show my wife this extraordinary national park the size of Denmark. Going south from Windhoek and then north again towards Windhoek allows us to try some special tracks such as D1033 and perhaps D1022! You can read our report from these tracks later on this blog!

Our general travel itinerary 2024:

• Towards Kalahari Desert / Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park on: "4WD adventure"
• Camping in NamibRand Nature Reserve: "Desert and stargazing"
• Through Namib-Naukluft National Park to Swakopmund: "two mountain passes and the coast"
• Through Erongo and Kunene regions & exploring Etendeka Plateau: "Volcanic rocks & flat-topped mountains"
• Remote Kunene/Kaokoland wilderness days: "Explooring Africa´s last wilderness"
• Along Cunene River on the Angolan border: "The green oasis"
• Etosha National Park and Erongo Mountains luxury finish: "The big five & gastronomy"

Specific stops and links to homepages (6 weeks trip):

Route on TripAdvisor

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, campsite, 2 nights Bagatelle
2. Kalahari Game Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Kalahari GL
3. Mata-Mata Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
4. Kalahari Tented Camp, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
5. Nossob Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, camping, 3 nights Nossob 4x4-trail
7. Twee Rivieren Restcamp, camping, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
8. Kalahari Game Lodge, 1 night Kalahari GL
9.  Bagatelle Kalahari Botique Farmhouse, 1 night (join friends from DK) Bagatelle Farmhouse
10. Namib Rand Family Hideout, campsite, 3 nights Family hideout camping
11. Desert Breeze Lodge, villa, 3 nights Desert Breeze
12. Madisa Camp, campsite, 1 night Madisa Camp
13.  Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, open air, 2 nights Etendeka Trail
14.  Etendeka Mountain Camp, main camp, 1 night Etendeka Main Camp
15. Khowarib Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Khowarib Lodge Campsite
16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp, campsite, 2 nights Puros Bush Lodge
17. Etambura Camp, 3 nights Etaambura Camp
18. Opuwo Country Lodge, 1 night Opuwo Lodge
19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp, campsite, 2 nights Omarunga EP Camp
20. Camp Cornie, campsite, 2 nights Camp Cornie
21. Dolomite Camp, 2 nights Etosha Dolomite Camp
22. Omurenga Lodge, 2 nights Omurenga
23. River Crossing Lodge, 1 night Rivercrossing

Some potential activities the different places:

In the following, some of the special activities we plan to do some of the different places besides the usual very nice scenic- and game drives and sundowners, the number refers to the list above.

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: a) View the spectacular southern hemisphere sky from observatory with a state-of-the-art computer-controlled telescope, b) Cheetah Excursion to get up close and personal with the fastest land animal on Earth.

Sundowner drive, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2009

2. Kalahari Game Lodge: Try their 4×4 self-drive trail in Kalahari on a 3500ha portion of the lodge.

6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail: Challenging 4x4 driving on a small track through the Kalahari dunes in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks, covering a total distance of 214km, sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights. See my specific posts about the trail and our experiences during the trip later. 

Video when my son and I drove from Gharagab Wilderness camp on the exit track:

9. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: See 1. above.

10. Namib Rand Family Hideout: a) Experience the NamibRand Nature Reserve characterized by expansive plains, towering mountain ranges, and iconic red sand dunes sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights and stargazing, b) Visits Duwisib Castle 80 km away, c) Visit Sossusvlei, d) Try 4WD track. See my specific posts about NamibRand and our experiences during the trip later.

11. Desert Breeze Lodge / Swakopmund: a)  Sandwich Harbour 4x4 drive, see later post, b) Walwis Bay Catamaran Tour, c) The Tug (restaurant), d) Ocean Cellar (restaurant), e) Exploore Swakop.

12. Madisa Camp: Track elephants.

Sundowner near Madisa Camp,
Namibia, 2012

13. Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail: See our blog from previous visit Trail report

Etendeka Mountain Camp, "tents" in distance,
Namibia, 2019

14. Etendeka Mountain Camp: Stargazing through the telescope.

 Etendeka Mountain Camp,
Namibia, 2009

15. Khowarib Lodge: a) Drive to Ongongo Hot Spring for swim, b) Visit Sesfontein. See our blog from previous visit Report Khowarib  

Me & son, Ongongo Hot Spring,
Namibia, 2012

16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp: a) Visiting Himba´s, see our blog from previous visit Puros Himba visit, b) Drive along Hoarusip River to Puros Canyon, see our blog from previous visit including elephant encounter(!) Report from Puros Canyon 

View point near Puros.
Me checking the road ahead of us! 
Namibia, 2012 

17. Etambura Camp: a) Enjoy this very special place, read about our previous visit Etaambura report, b) Visit Himba´s Report previous Himba visit, c) Extreeme 4WD driving to Marienfluss, read report from previous trip Report Marienfluss Drive. 

Video from the road from Puros to Etambura, Namibia, 2012: 

18. Opuwo Country Lodge: buy new supplies form trip to north.

19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp: a) Visit Epupa Falls, read our previous report Epupa Flls Oasis, b) Go on a rafting trip, read our previous report Riverrafting Kunene

Riverrafting Cunene River,
Namibia, 2019

20. Camp Cornie: a) Canoeing the Kunene, b) Fishing the Kunene.

21. Dolomite Camp:  Night drive.

Our cabin, Dolomite Camp,
Etosha, Namibia, 2012

22. Omurenga Lodge: Visit Kristall Kellerei, the oldest wine farm in Namibia Kristall Kellerei