From Desert to Water – Canoeing the Orange River

 

Provenance Camp Cabanas
Our camp at Orange River
Namibia 2026

After several days of driving through some of the driest landscapes in southern Namibia, the idea of spending several days on a river feels almost surreal. Yet here we are, heading towards the banks of the Orange River – a strip of green water cutting through one of the driest corners of southern Africa.

We are leaving Gondwana Canyon Park behind and heading south towards the Orange River, which is more than 2,000 kilometres long and the longest river in South Africa. It rises as the Senqu in the highlands of Lesotho and flows westwards through South Africa before eventually reaching the Atlantic Ocean at Alexander Bay.

On its lower reaches, the Orange River forms much of the border between Namibia and South Africa. That is our destination. It is also where we will cross into South Africa after our river adventure, having spent some time literally paddling between the two countries.

There is, however, a slightly amusing geographical technicality. Unlike most international river borders, where the boundary follows the middle of the river, the Namibia–South Africa border follows the northern bank of the Orange River. So, technically speaking, once we are on the water, we are already paddling in South Africa – even though we will not officially enter the country until tomorrow.

Heading for the river

Landscape becomes even drier as we approach the river

The road south towards the Orange River follows C37. Surprisingly, the landscape becomes even drier as we approach the river. Eventually, we turn sharply west towards Aussenkehr, with the final part of the drive taking us through the Aussenkehr Nature Reserve.

Road follows Gamchab River on right
Before Aussenkehr Nature Reserve
Namibia 2026

The road follows the Gamchab River, a tributary of the Orange River, on our right. The contrast is striking. The surrounding landscape is dry, barren and beautifully desolate, while the vegetation becomes surprisingly lush wherever there is water in the riverbed. In most places, the Gamchab is little more than a dry, sandy channel, but in a few sections there is still water.

And then, quite suddenly, Aussenkehr appears.

Aussenkehr informal settlement
Namibia 2026

Aussenkehr informal settlement
Namibia 2026

After all the empty desert landscapes of the past few days, it is a rather dramatic change of scenery. Aussenkehr is an informal settlement, with small houses and shelters built from whatever materials are available. Suddenly there are people, houses and activity where, only minutes earlier, there had been nothing but desert.

Vineyards Aussenhehr
Namibia 2026

And then something even more unexpected appears: vineyards.

On both sides of the road are extensive vineyards, producing grapes that are used mainly for juice and raisins. The vines survive here thanks to irrigation from the Orange River. The climate is simply too hot and sunny for conventional wine production – although, given the amount of sunshine, one suspects the grapes are not exactly complaining.

Wine, Aussenkehr
Namibia 2026

It is a bizarre transition. From apparently endless desert to a surprisingly green agricultural landscape in the space of a few kilometres. The Orange River is already making its presence felt long before we actually reach it.

Provenance Camp Cabanas

Honeymoon suite
Provenance Camp Cabanas
Namibia 2026

After a pleasant lunch stop in Aussenkehr, we finally reach Provenance Camp Cabanas, where we have booked something rather more extravagant than we normally would for a canoe trip: their honeymoon suite.

And what a location.

The "house" is partly built on stilts right on the riverbank, with a spectacular 180-degree view over the Orange River. It is also positioned directly beside a set of rapids, meaning that the soundtrack is provided by rushing water 24/7.

Not exactly white noise.

More like nature's version of a permanently running shower.

180-degree view over Orange River
Honeymoon suite
Namibia 2026

We are here to paddle with Felix Unite, who offers a range of Orange River canoe trips, from relatively short excursions to multi-day adventures with overnight camping along the river. Their longer trips are particularly tempting, including the more luxurious Orange River African Magic, which combines several days on the river with camping in the wilderness.

Unfortunately, the dates of our journey do not fit with one of the longer expeditions, so we have settled for a three-hour introductory canoe trip starting from their base at Provenance Camp.

A shame, really – but at least we get a taste of what could be done on a future visit.

We are here for a
Orange River canoe trip
Namibia 2026

Three hours on the Orange River

Original old Mercedes-Benz
Namibia 2026

The next morning we meet the rest of our group beside the rather original old Mercedes-Benz bus that Felix Unite uses to transport guests.

The night in the honeymoon suite has been extremely comfortable, accompanied throughout by the constant roar of the rapids outside.

We are driven approximately 10 kilometres upstream before walking the final stretch down to the river. After a safety briefing, we are introduced to our canoes and fellow paddlers.

Safety briefing, Felix Unite
Namibia 2026

It is quite a mixed group. Some have never been in a canoe before, while others clearly know what they are doing. The age range is equally broad.

We are soon on the water and wait for the rest of the group to get organised.

We wait for the rest of the group
Orange River, Namibia 2026

Then we simply drift downstream with the current.

The scenery is impressive: mountains, rocky riverbanks and the occasional person pass by as we make our way through the landscape. This is, however, not exactly untouched wilderness. The section of the Orange River we are paddling is actively used, with occasional pumping stations extracting water for agricultural land above the river. There are houses, electricity lines and people along the banks.

So "pristine wilderness" would be stretching the truth.

But it is perfectly pleasant, and the combination of desert mountains and a broad, green river remains quite spectacular.

Moving water ahead
Orange River
Namibia 2026

We encounter several sections of moving water, where we paddle in single file through small rapids, carefully avoiding the rocks. Nothing particularly challenging if you have some previous canoeing experience – although perhaps a little more exciting for those who do not.

Short break on a sandy beach
Orange River, Namibia 2026

After a short break on a sandy beach, we continue downstream for another 45 minutes.

And then comes the final rapid.

This one is different.

As soon as we enter the current, we need to turn sharply towards the right-hand bank and the base camp before being swept into the next section of rapids.

We are the first canoe behind the guide's boat and negotiate it without any problems.

The canoe immediately behind us has less luck.

They get caught across the current and capsize.

For a moment, there is genuine drama. From where we are, we can only see one of the passengers on the surface, and there is a brief and rather uncomfortable fear that the other person may still be underwater.

Fortunately, she appears a little later on the other side of the overturned canoe. Both passengers eventually make it safely to shore, dragging the canoe behind them.

A little shaken, but otherwise fine – and now with considerably better material for the evening's storytelling.

Fortunately, there are neither crocodiles nor hippos in the Orange River.

Which, at this particular moment, feels like an important piece of information.

Neither crocodiles nor hippos
Orange River, Namibia 2026

An evening at Provenance

Back at Provenance Camp, we have dinner at the restaurant well before some of the larger groups arrive. This is on the recommendation of the staff, who suggest that we eat early to avoid the rush.

Now that is good hospitality.

It is nice to see a place thinking about how guests can have the best possible experience – particularly after some of our previous much more expensive restaurant encounters.

Provenance Camp Cabanas is not a luxury lodge. It is much more of a canoe and outdoor activity camp, with a slightly laid-back, almost surfer-like vibe.

The bar stays open until midnight, and the accommodation ranges from basic camping to the rather more glamorous honeymoon suite.

We enjoy our stay precisely because the place is what it claims to be. The atmosphere is relaxed, the staff are exceptionally friendly and helpful, and there is no pretence that this is something it isn't.

And the honeymoon suite is actually quite luxurious – and, in our opinion, available at a very fair price.

Would we do it again?

Bar, Provenance Camp Cabanas
Namibia 2026

Absolutely – but next time, we would do it properly.

If we return, the plan would be to join one of the longer Orange River expeditions, perhaps the Orange River African Magic, with several nights camping along the river.

Three hours on the river have given us just enough of a taste to realise that there is much more to explore. A multi-day trip would provide a far more immersive experience of the river, the mountains and the extraordinary landscape surrounding it.

For now, though, the canoe adventure has been a very enjoyable change of pace.

After days of dust, rocks and desert, there is something wonderfully refreshing about sitting in a canoe and simply letting a river carry you through the landscape.

Tomorrow, however, we are entering South Africa for real.

The border crossing at Noordoewer is only about 10 kilometres away. We have been warned that the crossing can take anything from 30 minutes to four hours.

So much for the relaxing end to our canoe adventure...

Fish River Canyon – 4x4 along the edge

Blogger on the edge!
Exploring eastern side of Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

On our second day at Canyon Lodge, we set out to explore the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

Compared with the western side near Fish River Lodge [link], the most striking feature here is the sheer openness of the Gondwana Nature Park – vast plains stretching towards rugged mountains, with the canyon itself appearing almost as a dramatic incision into an otherwise endless landscape.

Wife explooring endless landscape in
Gondwana Nature Park, Fish River Canyon
Eastern side, Namibia 2026

There is another important difference. From the eastern side, you can access the deepest sections of the Fish River Canyon directly from the rim. On the western side, you typically see the outer canyon from above before descending into the inner canyon on an organised excursion. Here, the canyon is much more immediately accessible from the top.

We drive the roughly 10 km from Canyon Lodge to the Fish River Canyon entrance gate at the Hobas office. The staff are friendly and efficient, and soon we have our permits for two people and our Hilux, ready for the next leg of the adventure.

Another 10 km takes us towards the canyon rim. We have decided to follow a small track shown on the Tracks4Africa app, running for almost 20 km along the canyon edge towards Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint.

Blue dot is Eagle´s Rock Viewpoint
Fish River Canyon, Namibia 2026

It is a 4x4 route.

And, as it turns out, quite an entertaining one.

The track is rocky but reasonably straightforward as far as Sulphur Springs Viewpoint and on towards Desert Rim Viewpoint, where the track eventually ends in a dead end.

An unexpected encounter

At Sulphur Springs Viewpoint, I suddenly spot something moving between the rocks and sparse vegetation.

A scorpion.

Black Hairy Thick-tailed Scorpion 
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

And not just any scorpion.

It is a Black Hairy Thick-tailed Scorpion (Parabuthus villosus), a large and rather impressive member of Namibia's scorpion fauna. The species is characterised by its massive, thick tail, dark body and reddish-yellow legs and pincers. It is also unusually active during the day for a scorpion, meaning that it may be encountered actively during daylight hours rather than only after dark.

This one is certainly active.

It starts moving in my direction following my tracks backwards.

This has happened to me before in the Kalahari [link], when a scorpion also seemed determined to make me part of its afternoon itinerary. On that occasion, however, I was wearing sandals and had bare feet.

This time, fortunately, I am properly equipped.

I slowly retreat while managing to get some good photographs – and even two videos – of the creature.

Parabuthus villosus is a medically important species. Its venom is potent, and a sting can cause severe local pain and systemic neurological or cardiovascular effects. Serious envenoming is uncommon, but significant symptoms can occur and medical assessment is appropriate after a sting, particularly if systemic symptoms develop. In other words: this is not a scorpion I would recommend picking up for a closer look.

We watch our little friend for a while before continuing.

A fascinating and entirely unexpected encounter.

Scorpions are actually surprisingly difficult to spot in Namibia unless you are specifically looking for them. At night, they can be located relatively easily with ultraviolet light, as their exoskeleton fluoresces under UV illumination. We tried exactly that at The Desert Grace Lodge [link].

The going gets tougher

Track more challenging
Blogger building road
Fish River Canyon, Namibia 2026

As we continue towards Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint, the track becomes progressively more challenging.

In a few places I have to get out of the Hilux and inspect the route before deciding how to tackle it. There are steep sections, rocky obstacles and a few small drainage channels where parts of the track have been eroded away – presumably by the unusually heavy winter rainfall a few weeks earlier.

It is worth remembering that we are now at the end of winter in the southern hemisphere, so substantial recent rainfall is certainly not something we had expected.

The key is to keep both wheels on high ground.

The last thing you want is to have the Hilux's undercarriage resting on a rock or, even worse, to damage something underneath the vehicle. A little reconnaissance on foot is therefore considerably cheaper than a visit to a Namibian workshop.

Inspect the route
crossing small drainage channel
Namibia 2026

We thoroughly enjoy the challenge.

Nothing is particularly technical, but the combination of rocks, erosion, some steeper sections and a narrow track makes the driving sufficiently demanding to keep us very much awake.

Another little adventure.

After a long and occasionally bumpy drive, we eventually reach Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint, the end of the track.

The actual view directly into the canyon is somewhat underwhelming compared with what we had hoped for. There is, however, a beautiful panorama across the surrounding plains, and the skies above us are filled with large birds of prey circling on the thermals.

We decide to backtrack about 500 metres to a cairn we noticed earlier. From here, a short walk leads towards the canyon edge, where we are rewarded with a magnificent view of one of the Fish River's sweeping bends far below.

Wife near cairn
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

This is much more like it.

Magnificent view  to one of
Fish River's sweeping bends far below
Namibia 2026

After a cold drink and a well-earned break, we start the return journey. It goes considerably faster now that we know the track – although we still take the rocks and eroded sections seriously.

Grand View – and a little peace and quiet

On the way back, we stop at the official Grand Viewpoint.

And it really is grand.

There are tables and benches, and the view across the Fish River Canyon is spectacular. There is, however, one obvious disadvantage compared with our little 4x4 adventure: we are no longer alone.

There are plenty of other visitors, and a large bus just left.

For that reason, we can highly recommend taking the track along the canyon rim towards Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint if you have a suitable vehicle and some basic 4x4 experience.

Peace and rest, 4x4 trail
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

During the 2–3 hours we spend on the route, we encounter only two other vehicles.

The route is not technically difficult, but it does require a proper 4x4 with good ground clearance and a driver who is comfortable choosing the right line over rocks, erosion and uneven terrain. A little patience and willingness to get out and inspect the difficult sections also helps rather than just try.

For us, it was another great way of experiencing the Fish River Canyon – not just looking at it, but getting there as part of the adventure.

Tomorrow, we leave the canyon behind and head for the Orange River.

And this time, we are swapping four wheels for a canoe.

Adventure continues.

Canyon Lodge – The Good, the Bad and the Overpriced

Canyon Lodge - nice location but...
Namibia 2026 

Canyon Lodge turned out to be a case of the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced. The setting was fantastic, our chalet was perfect, and the pool was almost impossible to fault, with magnificent views across Gondwana Nature Park towards the Fish River Canyon.

Unfortunately, all these wonderful elements were almost completely overshadowed by an invasion of three large groups — two of around ten people each and one of more than twenty people from the other side of the world.

And it started so well

Lodge in front of reception
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

We were warmly greeted by a very enthusiastic guide — and, as it turned out, salesman — who showed us to reception. He told us that he would later explain all the activities and excursions available at the lodge. We never saw him again. Perhaps we had already been sold.

At reception, we were met by a very friendly hostess who completed the usual check-in formalities before assigning us Family Chalet 21. She then showed us around the lodge, including the shop, restaurant and terrace, and arranged for our luggage to be delivered to the chalet.

Family Chalet 21, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

We opened the door to Chalet 21 and were immediately impressed. The chalet is beautifully integrated into the rocky landscape, with a huge pile of boulders rising behind it, seemingly balanced on top of one another. It reminded us a little of the Erongo Mountains [link].

The living room, bedroom and bathroom are built directly among the rocks, with large rock formations incorporated throughout the chalet. Immediately to the right as you enter is a bedroom with a double bed, separated from the second double bed by a roughly 3 x 3 metre boulder. There is a wardrobe, a small table with glasses, a coffee and tea station, a safe and everything else you could reasonably want. Everything was in immaculate condition. Nothing was missing.

The bathroom feels almost like a cave
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

The bathroom is reached by walking down into what feels almost like a cave. There, you are greeted by a large and inviting bathtub. The whole thing is wonderfully cosy — and quite spectacular.

Pool area, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Once we had settled in, we also headed for the pool area, located a few hundred metres from the chalets. Sun loungers are spread across several levels of rocky terraces, overlooking a beautiful, almost infinity-style pool. Beyond it are magnificent views across the surrounding plains and mountains.

Blogger by pool area
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

There was even Wi-Fi.

It just never worked.

The restaurant

Terrasse outside restautant
Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Our first dinner was a buffet in the restaurant. It was OK, but rather heavy on the meat-and-gravy side of things. The green element consisted mainly of various canned vegetables poured into bowls, which did not exactly scream culinary ambition.

Before the buffet, we were offered a choice of two starters. On both evenings we ate at the restaurant, both were distinctly underwhelming.

We were also given some warm bread when we sat down. Calling it a piece of bread would perhaps be generous — it was more or less bonsai-sized. An odd place to save money.

The staff were friendly and clearly doing their best. They were, however, fighting an uphill battle.

Night sky, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

The second evening, things went completely off the rails.

First, we received a piece of warm bread approximately the size of a walnut, followed by a choice of two small starters. Neither was significantly larger than the bread.

Looking around the restaurant, we noticed that tables had been set for three groups: two of around ten people each and another table with more than twenty places.

The restaurant is not particularly large, and this looked like a completely hopeless project.

The first group of around ten was already sitting peacefully enjoying their dinner. Then the very large group of more than twenty arrived from the other side of the world and descended upon the relatively small restaurant.

Their guide immediately started rushing around, giving instructions to both the staff and their group members, while the latter made a beeline for the buffet — straight for the meat, naturally.

There was no sitting down first, no settling in, and apparently very little consideration for the other guests.

We were perhaps five couples sitting quietly and trying to enjoy our dinner. From that point onwards, it was obvious that nobody was enjoying the experience anymore.

We left before dessert, after pointing out that the situation was simply unacceptable. This was met with a somewhat bewildered smile and a shrug of the shoulders.

And just as we walked out the door, the other group of ten arrived.

Good luck.

Family chalet 21, good thing about Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

This was now the second time on this trip that we had experienced an invasion of large groups at a Gondwana Lodge. The previous occasion was at The Desert Grace, where there was at least considerably more space, and where the much higher quality of the food and facilities helped to compensate (link).

Canyon Lodge simply does not have a restaurant large enough to accommodate groups of this size without seriously affecting the experience of everyone else.

Quite frankly, it is not acceptable for guests to book a year in advance and pay around NAD 8,000 per night  (430 EUR) for bed and breakfast, only to find themselves in an overcrowded and chaotic environment like this.

There is a very obvious mismatch between the price and what you actually get.

We will certainly not be returning to Canyon Lodge. And in the future, we will think twice about staying at Gondwana-branded lodges, or indeed at other properties that actively cater to large organised groups. We would much rather choose smaller, more intimate places where the experience of the individual guest actually seems to matter. An good alternative is Fish River Lodge on the other side of the Fish River Canyon , see link to our recent visit (link)

Perhaps it is the location?

Fish River Canyon, main viewpoint
20 km from Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Maybe this is simply what happens when you are in a spectacular location.

If you eat in Nyhavn in Copenhagen, one of Denmark's most popular tourist spots, you can be fairly certain that you will pay a high price. What you cannot be equally certain of is getting high quality in return.

Perhaps the same applies here. If you are staying right next to the Fish River Canyon or close to Sossusvlei, perhaps the location itself becomes part of the price tag.

But surely that does not have to mean that the rest of the experience is allowed to deteriorate.

Map at Canyon Lodge of
Fish River Canyon tracks
Namibia 2026

And there was one final annoyance.

At breakfast, the buffet was routinely being stripped by the groups before we arrived, and it was not properly replenished afterwards. What was left for the remaining guests were essentially the poor leftovers.

Even some of the cheapest hotels we have stayed at elsewhere manage to keep a breakfast buffet replenished.

So, yes — Canyon Lodge is a spectacular place. The setting is extraordinary, our chalet was wonderful, and the pool is fantastic.

But a beautiful location and a great chalet do not, by themselves, make a great lodge.

For us, Canyon Lodge was ultimately the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced.

//Garas 4x4 Self-Drive – An Adventure Through Gondwana Canyon Park

 

//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

Setting Out from Canyon Lodge

The day after arriving at Canyon Lodge, we decide to try the //Garas Self-Drive, a marked route of approximately 40 km through Gondwana Canyon Park, which takes around 2–3 hours to complete.

This is not described as a particularly difficult 4x4 route, but rather as a great way to experience the private conservation area independently. The route follows marked tracks through the park and connects Canyon Lodge with Canyon Roadhouse.

A4 trail map //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

At reception at Canyon Lodge, we are given a simple A4 trail map. The route is not marked on our ever-present companion, Tracks4Africa, but at least the app always shows us where Canyon Lodge is located – just in case we somehow get lost!

We set off, with my wife behind the wheel.

wife behind the wheel
Namibia 2026

A Gentle 4x4 Challenge

We are both relatively experienced 4x4 drivers, but it quickly becomes clear that the route is not technically difficult. The terrain is uneven, with plenty of rocks and, in a few places, somewhat steeper rocky sections where a dry riverbed or small tributary crosses the track.

Still, the challenges are no greater than what any reasonably capable 4x4 vehicle should be able to handle.

On the way, //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The route takes us through the characteristic rocky landscape of Gondwana Canyon Park, with its koppies, granite formations, euphorbias and quiver trees.

Grasshoppers and Other Small Creatures

We don't encounter much large wildlife – apart from a single giraffe early in the drive and occasional springbok. But the smaller inhabitants of the park are everywhere.

Large grasshoppers suddenly leap from the vegetation as we pass, while dragonfly-like insects seem to be constantly on the move around us.

At one point, a very large grasshopper suddenly flies through the open side window and lands inside the car.

Very large grasshoppers everywhere
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

For a few seconds, there is mild panic!

Perhaps partly because we are surprised – but also because these Namibian grasshoppers are considerably larger than the ones we are used to in Denmark!

As soon as we establish that it is just a grasshopper – and not some kind of flying scorpion ;-) – calm returns to the vehicle.

And we have a good laugh.

When you are driving alone through unfamiliar terrain, you are perhaps slightly more alert than usual. Every unexpected movement or strange sound gets your attention.

We are, as we like to call it, on an adventure.

From Rocky Terrain to Open Sand

halfway along the trail, landscape
becomes more open and sandy.
Namibia 2026

The first half of the route is quite rocky, but after Dassies Poort, approximately halfway along the trail, the landscape changes. The terrain becomes more open and sandy, and the driving becomes easier.

Along the way, we pass two Wild Camps.

The first one in particular catches my attention. It looks like the perfect place to spend a night with a rooftop tent. Imagine climbing onto the roof of the vehicle in the evening and simply enjoying the solitude, the silence and the spectacular views surrounding you.

I suspect that overnight stays may be possible with permission from the lodge or Gondwana. Definitely something worth investigating another time.

A Different Side of Gondwana Canyon Park

Namaqua sandgrouse
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The //Garas Self-Drive has turned out to be a lovely way to experience a different side of Gondwana Canyon Park.

It has not been a technical 4x4 challenge, but that was never really the point. The pleasure lies in being out there on our own, slowly exploring the landscape and never quite knowing what we might encounter around the next bend.

A wonderful day.

Now it is time to relax at the lodge.

Tomorrow, we will finally explore the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

From the Kalahari to the Fish River Canyon – The Long Way South

 

We leave Outpost Safari Lodge early
We have a long drive to Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Today we leave Outpost Safari Lodge near Unions End and embark on a very long drive all the way to Canyon Lodge, near the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon and the Hobas entrance gate.

For some time, I have wanted to explore more of the small back roads in this remote part of Namibia. On a previous journey, we had a fantastic drive along the little D1033, the “Olifants River Road” (link D1033 trip).

This time, we decide to take one of the most easterly routes possible through this part of Namibia. We follow the D1022, then the D1119 and D511, before eventually turning southeast onto the somewhat larger C17 towards the small town of Koes and onwards to Keetmanshoop.

It turns out to be a perfect plan.

Start of D1022, runs lengthwise
 between the dunes most of time
Namibia 2026

Almost nobody on the road

D1022, we meet only three other vehicles!
Freshly graded track
Namibia 2026

During the first three hours, we encounter just three other vehicles!

We initially head south on the D1022, which turns out to have been freshly graded and is in absolutely perfect condition.

And here I was, expecting loose sand and a potentially challenging 4WD drive!

Instead, the road runs lengthwise between the dunes, and only occasionally do we cross from one dune ridge to another. This creates long, straight stretches interrupted by short but beautiful climbs over the dune crests.

Road D1119, distance between
the dune ridges shorter, red sand.
Namibia 2026

When we reach the D1119, we start heading more towards the west. The distance between the dune ridges becomes shorter, and the character of the drive changes.

It gradually develops into something resembling a roller coaster ride over the now quite high dunes – still, however, on beautifully graded gravel.

The dunes have also changed character. They are becoming increasingly red, with the characteristic colours of the Kalahari becoming more pronounced.

Blogger break D1119
Namibia 2026

But this year there is something else.

Flowers.

And more and more of them.

The further south we travel, the more flowers we see scattered across the desert. In places, the normally dry landscape is surprisingly colourful.

The desert is still blooming.

How incredibly lucky we are to be here at exactly the right time.

Giants and quiver trees

 Near Quiver Tree Forest
Namibia 2026

After passing the small town of Koes, we eventually approach Keetmanshoop.

Along the way, we pass two of southern Namibia's most unusual natural attractions: Giants' Playground and the Quiver Tree Forest.

Giants' Playground is a remarkable landscape of enormous dolerite boulders, piled and balanced in seemingly impossible formations. The rocks look almost as if some enormous hand has stacked them on top of each other – hence the name. The formations are entirely natural, created through geological processes and prolonged weathering and erosion.

Just a few kilometres away lies the famous Quiver Tree Forest, a natural concentration of Aloidendron dichotomum, commonly known as quiver trees or kokerboom. The trees are actually giant succulents rather than true trees, and some of the specimens are several centuries old. The San traditionally hollowed out the branches to make quivers for their arrows, which explains the English name.

We visited both places back in 2009, when our children were just nine and ten years old.

We still have vivid memories of the strange rock formations and, in particular, the many spectacular quiver trees.

But we still have a very long drive ahead of us today, so we decide not to stop for a proper visit this time.

Instead, we simply admire the landscape from the road and pull over briefly on the roadside.

Sometimes it is enough just to see an old familiar landscape again.

Heading into the south

When we reach Keetmanshoop, we decide not to drive into the town itself, as we did some weeks earlier with my brother and sister-in-law on the way to Klein-Aus Vista (link).

Instead, we continue directly towards the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

Turning south onto the C12
Namibia 2026

In far distance,
we begin to see mountain ranges
Namibia 2026

After turning south onto the C12, the landscape changes once again.

The open desert seems to stretch endlessly in every direction.

There are even more flowers now, and in the far distance we begin to see mountain ranges.

At first, they are barely visible on the horizon.

But as we continue south, they become more distinct, rising gradually above the enormous plains.

Flowers and mountains more distinct
Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

We cross below Naute Dam
Namibia 2026

The landscape is becoming increasingly dramatic.

We eventually turn onto the C37 for the final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park.

Final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

The views become more and more spectacular.

Gondwana Canyon Park is an enormous private conservation area covering approximately 1,160 km², or 116,000 hectares – about 27% of the area of Denmark – surrounding the Fish River Canyon. The area has been developed around the idea of combining conservation, landscape restoration and tourism, and wildlife such as plains zebra, wildebeest, red hartebeest and giraffe has been reintroduced.

It is a fitting landscape for the next chapter of our journey.

Finally – Canyon Lodge

Canyon Lodge front
Namibia 2026

And finally, we arrive at our destination.

Canyon Lodge.

The lodge lies among enormous granite boulders within Gondwana Canyon Park, approximately 20 kilometres east of the Fish River Canyon. The stone chalets are scattered between the rocks, and the setting is spectacularly remote.

We are going to stay here for three nights.

We have visited the Fish River Canyon twice before – in 2022 (link) and a few weeks ago with my brother and sister-in-law (link) – but both times from the western side.

This time, we are going to explore it from the eastern side, around Hobas.

After the long drive from the Kalahari, it feels good to finally arrive.

The car has done another very long day, but the journey itself has been an experience.

And tomorrow, we will finally get to see what the Fish River Canyon looks like from this side.

We are very much looking forward to the next few days.