Saturday, 15 August 2026

Sossusfly – Namibia from Above


We are heading on a scenic flight
 "Sossusfly"
Namibia 2026

Namibia from Above

This time, we have decided to see Namibia from a rather different perspective and booked perhaps the most popular scenic flight in Namibia, the SOSSUSfly, also known as the “Sossus Scenic”.

We are going to fly for approximately 2 hours and 10 minutes, covering around 630 kilometres in our own chartered Cessna 210. According to Sossusfly, less than 20% of the route can be seen when travelling by road.

We have already driven an enormous amount in Namibia — probably more than 30,000 kilometres over our various journeys — reaching some of the most remote corners of the country. But this flight will take us over vast areas of the ancient Namib Desert that are far beyond any drivable route, as well as the southern Skeleton Coast, much of which is normally difficult to access.

One of the most exciting aspects is that we will follow the green ribbon of the Kuiseb River inland towards the Kuiseb Canyon, before crossing the desert at very low altitude and heading north along the Atlantic coast.

We visited Sandwich Harbour from the ground only yesterday (link).

Today, we are going to see it from above.


Before Take-off


Pre flight breefing
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026

Our route, the red one
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026


We are collected in the late afternoon from our chalets at The Stiltz and driven to Swakopmund Airport.

All four of us are excited. After all, it is not every day that you get to undertake an adventure like this.

At the airport there is plenty of activity. Small aircraft are landing and taking off, while some passengers are preparing for skydiving.

I notice our pilot checking the fuel quantity in both wings.

He remembers to screw the fuel caps back on.

Good start!


We are ready for depature
Namibia 2026


Before departure, we have provided our individual weights and signed a declaration which, I suspect, probably exempts the airline from almost everything that could possibly happen to us. ;-)

There is also one final opportunity for a biological break.

There is no toilet on this little aircraft, and certainly no stewardess.

Although, technically, I suppose I am the stewardess.

I am sitting at the back, where I can reach the small luggage compartment containing our drinks and other essentials.

My wife and sister-in-law occupy the middle seats, while my brother gets the prestigious seat next to the pilot.


My brother in copilot seat
Namibia 2026 


He has everything necessary to fly the aircraft.

He just doesn't know what any of it does.

We hope he learns quickly in the event of an emergency!


Following the Kuiseb River


Below us is the Kuiseb River,
Namibia 2026


We take off smoothly from Swakopmund and head towards Walvis Bay before turning inland, following much the same route as the one we drove two days earlier.

Below us is the Kuiseb River, mostly a dry riverbed, but with groundwater and good rainfall over the last two years sustaining a remarkable diversity of plants and animals in this extraordinarily arid environment. The river's groundwater also plays an important role in supplying the coastal settlements.

From above, the contrast is astonishing: the apparently barren desert is suddenly intersected by a narrow, greenish ribbon of life. It also looks spectacular where green meets desert, sometimes in a very sharp contrast (see photo I).

We also see the Kuiseb Delta, which we explored from ground level only yesterday.


Kuiseb Delta
Namibia 2026


It is fascinating to see how the landscape we experienced from a Land Rover is transformed completely from the air.

At one point, the second Cessna that took off with us crosses back and forth over our aircraft — sometimes above us, sometimes below us — before suddenly diving off to one side.

I can understand why they looked slightly pale when we saw them again at the airport later!


Second Cessna that took off with us
Namibia 2026


The Sossusvlei Dunes from Above

We continue towards the famous Sossusvlei area.

The wind-sculpted dunes around Sossusvlei are among Namibia's most spectacular natural features, with some dunes rising more than 300 metres. Big Daddy, between Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, is around 325 metres high.

At the heart of the landscape lies Sossusvlei itself, a vast clay pan that only very occasionally fills with water after exceptional rainfall. Nearby are smaller pans such as Hidden Vlei and Deadvlei, the latter famous for its ancient, dead camel-thorn trees.


Sossusvlei area from above
Namibia 2026


We have visited these places several times before (link), but seeing them from the air is something completely different.

The enormous dunes stretch endlessly in every direction, their shapes and colours constantly changing with the angle of the late-afternoon sun.

And the shadows!

The low sun creates long, sharply defined shadows along the ridges, emphasising the contours of the dunes in a way that is almost impossible to appreciate from ground level.


Shadows along the ridges
Namibia 2026


Across the Endless Namib


 Endless desert heading for the coast
Namibia 2026


Now comes a long flight across seemingly endless desert.

For kilometres, the dunes form remarkably regular lines, arranged broadly perpendicular to the prevailing winds like enormous parallel sand ridges.

We cross roughly 120 kilometres of desert.

Looking down at this immense wilderness, it is easy to understand how unforgiving the Skeleton Coast must have been for shipwrecked sailors in the past. From the coast, there was essentially an enormous desert between them and any meaningful chance of reaching civilisation.

It is not difficult to understand where the name Skeleton Coast came from.


The Diamond Camps


One of the dimond camps
Difficult to really see
Namibia 2026


We eventually reach the old diamond camps — Charlottenfelder, Holsatia and Conception — the last remains of the diamond-rush era in the northern Diamond Area.

From the air, it is surprisingly difficult to see much of them, even though we fly very low over the area.

If you are lucky — and quick with the camera — you can spot the remains of A-frame shacks, house ruins, an old ox wagon, rusty water pipes, wooden barrels and abandoned mining equipment. They are the remnants of a remarkably tough chapter in Namibia's history, when diamond mining dominated this remote and inhospitable landscape.

The mining settlements were eventually abandoned in the late 1930s.

Shortly before reaching the ocean, we pass a series of coastal lagoons filled with large groups of flamingos.

Another spectacular sight from the air.


Coastal lagoon with large groups of flamingos
Namibia 2026


The Eduard Bohlen and the Skeleton Coast


 The lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen
Namibia 2026


We now reach another of the highlights of the flight.

After flying very low over the final dunes separating the Namib from the Atlantic, we see the lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen.

From the air, this is about as close as most people will ever get to this famous shipwreck.

The Eduard Bohlen was a passenger liner of the Woermann Line and later a supply ship serving the diamond camps. It ran aground at Conception Bay in 1909 and has remained stranded there ever since.

We turn north along the Skeleton Coast and soon see another wreck, the Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976.


Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976
Namibia 2026


Two ships, two stories and a spectacularly unforgiving coastline.

We also pass large colonies of Cape fur seals.

From the air, they appear completely undisturbed, occupying the remote coastline far from roads, people and tourist vehicles.


Colonies of Cape fur seals
Namibia 2026


Sandwich Harbour from Above


spot some of the vehicles
undertaking the same tour we did yesterday
Namibia 2026


Eventually, we reach Sandwich Harbour — the scene of our spectacular adventure only yesterday (link).

Wedged between the Namib Sand Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Sandwich Harbour is a unique coastal wetland consisting of a northern freshwater wetland and southern mudflats. It is an internationally important wetland and an important refuge for large numbers of waterbirds.

It is quite surreal to see the entire area from above after spending most of yesterday bouncing around it in a Land Rover.

We can even spot some of the vehicles undertaking the same tour we did yesterday.

From this altitude, they are almost ridiculously tiny.

The enormous dunes make the Land Rovers look like miniature toy cars crawling through a sea of sand.


Salt, Flamingos and Walvis Bay


Salt works south of Walvis Bay, rectangular ponds
Namibia 2026


We continue towards the Kuiseb Delta, with its distinctive “hammock dunes”, before reaching the enormous salt works south of Walvis Bay.

From above, the salt pans form an extraordinary geometric pattern of rectangular ponds.

Some of the ponds are vividly pink and red, caused by algae and other microorganisms living in the highly saline water. These colours also contribute to the spectacular appearance of the flamingos that feed in the surrounding wetlands.

The salt works produce hundreds of thousands of tonnes of salt annually for industrial and food use.


Enormous salt works S of Walvis Bay
Namibia 2026


We then fly along the coast of Walvis Bay.

Walvis Bay, once under British and then South African administration, was re-integrated into independent Namibia on 1 March 1994. Today it is Namibia's major deep-water port and an important commercial centre on the Atlantic coast.

Once again, we see large numbers of flamingos around the lagoon.

We saw many of them yesterday.

But from above, the birds, lagoon and surrounding salt pans form an entirely different spectacle.


Walwis Bay, Namibia's major deep-water port
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund from the Air


Swakop and our own little chalets on stilts
 at The Stiltz, lower right corner
Namibia 2026


Finally, we approach Swakopmund.

And there, below us, are our own little chalets on stilts at The Stiltz.

We can even see the pier where we had dinner at The Tug the previous evening.


The pier where we had dinner at The Tug
Namibia 2026


Further along the coast is the newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar, where we are going for dinner tonight.


The newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund is truly beautiful from the air, particularly in the warm light of the setting sun.

The old German colonial buildings dominate the historic centre, standing in striking contrast to the enormous arid landscape surrounding the town.

But from above we also discover something we had barely noticed from ground level: an enormous amount of new development spreading inland from the old town.

It is quite a different perspective on a place we thought we already knew well.


Back to Earth


We have viewed familiar places
 from an entirely new perspective!
Namibia 2026


We turn inland and begin our final approach to Swakopmund Airport.

One last look at the rather rough-and-ready settlement around the airport, and then our pilot smoothly puts the wheels back on the ground.

It is over.

Two hours and approximately 630 kilometres have passed almost unbelievably quickly.

We have seen parts of Namibia that would otherwise have remained completely inaccessible to us, and we have viewed familiar places from an entirely new perspective.

The experience has exceeded our already high expectations.

We feel incredibly privileged.

If you are tempted to do the same journey, you can read more about the Sossusfly and its current route here (link). Sossusfly itself describes it as its most popular scenic flight, covering approximately 630 kilometres in around 2 hours and 10 minutes, with less than 20% of the route visible by road.

There is certainly plenty to talk about over dinner at Ocean Cellar that evening.

Friday, 14 August 2026

Sandwich Harbour – Where the Dunes Meet the Atlantic

 

Blogger and family on tour to Sandwich Harbour
Namibia 2026


Back to Sandwich Harbour

We are heading for Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours, a company specialising in first-rate guiding to some of the least accessible but most spectacular parts of Namibia. We already know Turnstone from previous adventures, and there is also a more personal connection.

We first visited Sandwich Harbour in 2009 with our two children. Some of our favourite photographs from that trip show them running through the pristine dunes as nine- and ten-year-olds. In 2024, we returned to Sandwich Harbour with our best friends, although that time with another company (link).

We also know Bruno, the owner of Turnstone, from his extraordinary rewilding project, Mundulea Private Nature Reserve in the Otavi Mountains. We spent three days there with him, staying in a simple bush camp and walking through the reserve. It remains one of our most unforgettable African experiences — and easily makes our personal Top 10 of African adventures.

By now, we have travelled to 22 countries, including seven journeys to Namibia and neighbouring countries. You can read about our memorable walking adventure with Bruno — including our “encounter” with a leopard — here (link). And perhaps you would also enjoy the rather amusing story about the “tiger” (link).

So today we are back with Turnstone, and we are very much looking forward to another encounter with one of Namibia's most extraordinary landscapes.

Along the Atlantic Coast

The day starts early, when we are picked up at The Stiltz in Swakopmund.

We drive south along the beautiful chain of dunes bordering the Atlantic, zigzagging across the old railway line that once connected Swakopmund and Walvis Bay.

Once again, we notice the remarkable amount of activity out in Walvis Bay. Drilling rigs and large ships are scattered across the bay, while new beach houses and other developments seem to be appearing along the coast almost by the week.

It is difficult not to wonder what this coastline will look like in another decade.

We pass Bird Rock, a small guano island supporting an enormous colony of seabirds and one of the early examples of attempts to commercialise the natural resources of Namibia's coast.

Further south, we reach the Walvis Bay Lagoon and the wetlands stretching towards Sandwich Harbour. Both Walvis Bay and Sandwich Harbour are recognised as socalled Ramsar Wetlands of International Importance, reflecting their extraordinary importance for coastal and migratory birds. Sandwich Harbour itself covers about 16,500 hectares.

The Walvis Bay lagoon and the surrounding wetlands support large numbers of flamingos, waders, terns, pelicans and other coastal birds. We see mainly flamingos and cormorants today.


Flamingos at Walvis Bay Lagoon
Namibia 2026


The flamingos are particularly spectacular.

Hundreds of them stand or feed in the shallow water, their pink bodies reflected in the surface. Combined with the sea mist, the reflections create an almost surreal atmosphere.

It is completely enchanting.


Into the Kuiseb Delta


Hammock dunes meet salt works from above
Namibia 2026


After Walvis Bay, we pass the enormous salt works before reaching the lower reaches of the Kuiseb Delta.

It is slightly amusing to think that only yesterday we were many hours' drive away, standing high above the desert on the Kuiseb Pass (link).

The Kuiseb Delta is a remarkable transition zone where the river's ephemeral influence creates a surprisingly productive ecosystem in an otherwise hyper-arid landscape. The surrounding dunes and salt pans provide habitat for a variety of wildlife, including oryx, springbok and jackals.

After a short biological stop at the rather smart new facilities at the entrance to the area, we begin our approach to Sandwich Harbour.

We drive past barren salt pans and vegetation-covered hammock dunes, where small groups of oryx, springbok and jackals shelter from the harsh coastal environment.

We see them all.

We also encounter both dead and living seals along the coast, although there are no sightings today of ostriches or the occasional brown hyena that can also occur in this remarkable area. Fortunately, we see brown hyena later on the trip.


Vegetation-covered hammock dunes
Namibia 2026


Where the Dunes Meet the Ocean


Where dunes meet Atlantic Ocean
Our Scenic Flight the day after
Namibia 2026


And now the exciting part begins.

The next section of the journey is as dramatic as the landscape is vast, and it soon becomes obvious why Sandwich Harbour has such a reputation for being inaccessible.

Here, the Namib Desert simply runs out of land.

On one side of our Land Rover are enormous dunes, rising more than 100 metres above us. On the other is the Atlantic Ocean.


Nowhere to go, we wait for the waves to retreat
Sandwich Harbour, Namibia 2026


There is almost nowhere to go.

The route is dictated by the tide, the waves and the constantly shifting sand. We wait for the waves to retreat before making a short dash of perhaps 20–50 metres towards the next patch of firmer sand, while keeping a very close eye on the large breakers rolling in on our right.

This is not a place for mistakes.

According to our guide, since 1 April this year, it has been prohibited to undertake the Sandwich Harbour drive without a guide. Standing here now, with the towering dunes on one side and the powerful Atlantic on the other, the restriction makes perfect sense to us.

Several vehicles have been swallowed by the sea here, and the combination of steep dunes, soft sand and a rapidly changing tide can turn a seemingly harmless stretch of beach into a serious situation.

We are fortunate to have an experienced guide, Rudi, behind the wheel. It is obvious that he has done this many times before, but he is also constantly alert, carefully watching the waves, the sand and the changing conditions.

That is reassuring.


We drive where dunes meet Atlantic Ocean
Sandwich Harbour, Namibia 2026


After a tense and exciting section of driving, we finally get past the most difficult part. Fortunately, the tide is already on its way out, meaning that our return journey later in the day should be considerably easier.


Sandwich Harbour in the Mist


On one of the area's highest viewpoints
Sandwich Harbour, Namibia 2026


We now climb dramatically up through the dunes to one of the area's highest viewpoints, overlooking Sandwich Harbour.

The panorama should be spectacular.

And it probably is.

Unfortunately, the famous coastal fog, or “havgus” as we call it in Danish, has other plans for us.

Instead of a clear view, the harbour and ocean are partly hidden in a veil of mist. But rather than being disappointed, we find that the fog gives the landscape an extraordinary, almost mysterious atmosphere.

Looking out towards this wild coastline, it is easy to imagine how terrifying it must have been for sailors whose ships came to grief along the Skeleton Coast.

There is very little between the towering dunes and the Atlantic.


A Roller-Coaster Through the Dunes


We drive inland through the high dunes
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026


Because we have booked a private full-day tour with our own vehicle, Rudi suggests that we drive inland through the high dunes and wait for the coastal fog to lift before having lunch.

What follows is one of the most entertaining and nerve-racking drives of the trip.

We climb and descend enormous sand dunes, some of them incredibly steep. The old Land Rover bounces and tilts as we negotiate the slopes, and suddenly every handhold inside the vehicle becomes useful.

It is like a desert roller coaster.

We laugh, shout and occasionally wonder whether this particular slope is really intended to be driven down!!

Fortunately, Rudi seems to know exactly what he is doing.


Lunch in the Namib


We enjoy a delicious homemade lunch
in the back dunes
Namibia 2026


Eventually, we reach a high viewpoint deep among the back dunes.

We get out and explore the surrounding landscape, walking and playing among the enormous dunes while Rudi prepares lunch in the shelter of the Land Rover.

And naturally, there is a tablecloth.

This is Namibia, after all.

We sit in the warm, hazy sunshine, sheltered from the wind by the vehicle, and enjoy a delicious homemade lunch of lasagne and salad.

Around us stretches nothing but the endless Namib Desert.

It is one of those moments when the journey itself becomes the destination.


Blogger enjoying enormous dunes
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026 


Wife and  sister-in-law
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026


A Landscape Shaped by Sand and Sea

Sandwich Harbour is much more than a spectacular viewpoint. It is a remarkable coastal wetland where the Namib Desert meets the Atlantic Ocean, creating an ecosystem that seems almost impossible in such an arid environment.

The lagoon and surrounding wetlands are internationally recognised for their importance to waterbirds and migratory species. The combination of freshwater influence from the Kuiseb system, coastal fog, tidal waters and extensive dune fields creates a highly unusual environment within the Namib. Sandwich Harbour was designated a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance in 1995.

But what makes the place particularly extraordinary for visitors is the sheer physical drama.

Towering dunes plunge almost directly into the Atlantic. The beach can disappear beneath the incoming tide, while the dunes are constantly reshaped by the wind.

It is an environment where sand and sea are in a permanent struggle for territory — and where a Land Rover has to choose its route very carefully.


Sea Lion
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026


An Unforgettable Day

By the time we eventually turn back towards Swakopmund, we have experienced almost everything Sandwich Harbour can offer: flamingos in the mist, wildlife among the dunes, a thrilling drive along the narrow strip between ocean and sand, enormous dunes, a roller-coaster journey through the back country and a wonderful lunch in the middle of nowhere.

We have visited Sandwich Harbour before.

But this time, with Turnstone and an experienced guide like Rudi, we have seen a completely different side of it.

The combination of spectacular scenery, challenging driving and the sheer unpredictability of the environment makes this one of those days that will stay with us for the rest of our lives.

And once again, we feel incredibly privileged to be able to experience this extraordinary corner of Namibia.


Wife and sister-in-law
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026

 

Lunch site
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026

Through the Gaub and Kuiseb Passes to Swakopmund

 

Blogger and brother in Kuiseb Pass
 above Kuiseb River canyon
Namibia 2026


After our enjoyable stop in Solitaire, we continue towards Swakopmund, crossing the spectacular Gaub and Kuiseb mountain passes. This is the main tourist route between Swakopmund and Sossusvlei — a beautiful journey through some of the Namib Desert’s most dramatic landscapes.

Solitaire has become noticeably busier since our first visit in 2009. We stop for coffee and some of McGregor’s large cookies, rather than their famous apple pie, before setting off towards the mountains.


At McGregor’s, Solitaire
Namibia 2026 


The Gaub Pass winds through rugged desert terrain, while the Kuiseb Pass follows the dramatic Kuiseb River canyon, cutting through ancient rocky landscapes. We look forward to a booked scenic flight over this area. The road repeatedly rises and falls through barren mountains and dry river valleys, making this one of the most scenic sections of the journey.

As we approach the coast, the landscape gradually changes to flat again. We reach Swakopmund via Walvis Bay and the coastal road, and it is striking to see how much new development is taking place along this stretch.


As we approach the coast
landscape gradually changes to flat again
Namibia 2026


The bay is also dotted with drilling rigs and large vessels. With the recent offshore oil discoveries, it is impossible not to wonder what the future holds for this spectacular coastline.


Busy in Walvis Bay
Taken on scenic flight 2 days later
Namibia 2026


Let's hope Namibia manages to develop its new resources without sacrificing the extraordinary natural environment that makes this coast so special.


Arriving at The Stiltz


Our cabins, built on stilts
On Swakop River bank near ocean
Namibia 2026


In Swakopmund, we check into The Stiltz, a collection of small wooden chalets built on stilts where the Swakop River reaches the Atlantic Ocean.

We have booked the best available sea-view bungalows, with direct views across both the ocean and the river mouth with flammingoes walking around. The location is hard to beat. Tiger Reef Beach Bar is right next door, making it an ideal place for a sunset drink, while the centre of Swakopmund is within easy walking distance.


The view from our window
The Stiltz, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026


The chalets are clearly not brand new, but they are clean, comfortable and perfectly maintained. And the location more than makes up for their age.

The cold coastal nights are no problem either: there are electrically heated mattress pads and an electric heater in the room. There is plenty of hot water in the shower and surprisingly generous space inside.

The property is secured behind a gate that is locked at night, with a friendly security guard on duty. The staff are exceptionally welcoming and helpful.

After the long drive from the desert, it feels good to be back on the Atlantic coast.

We are looking forward to the next few days — and to some wild new adventures in and around Swakopmund!

Link to our previous stay in The Villa, Ocean Breeze (link)

Link to previous trip through Gaub and Kuiseb Passes with more pictures (link)

The Desert Grace – A Luxurious Stop in the Desert

 

The Desert Grace bar
Namibia 2026

The Journey Through the Namib Desert


Most often excellent roads in Namibia
Grader working
Namibia 2026


We are heading towards Swakopmund, where we will cross the two spectacular mountain passes of Gaub and Kuiseb. To make the journey a little less demanding, we have decided to break it up with one luxurious overnight stop at The Desert Grace.

On our way to Desert Grace, we fill up with diesel in Sesriem. It pays to take advantage of every opportunity to refuel, even though our Toyota Hilux can manage around 1,200 kilometres with its additional tank. You simply never know when the next fuel station might have run dry.

The road along the C27 through the NamibRand Nature Reserve is exactly as corrugated as we remember it from previous journeys. The relentless shaking is somewhat softened by the sight of a large group of zebra and the spectacular scenery all around us.

The final section via the C19 from Sesriem towards Solitaire is much the same, although this time we encounter considerably more oncoming traffic. Most vehicles leave behind an enormous 500-metre-long cloud of dust, so it becomes important to react quickly and switch the ventilation system to recirculation before the dust gets inside.

The shaking on Namibia's corrugated roads is appropriately known as the “Bush Massage”. One trick is to maintain around 70–90 km/h, allowing the vehicle to float over the corrugations rather than hitting every ridge individually. You just have to remember to slow down again for the bends, some of which have the rather unfortunate characteristic of being “cambered the wrong way”, towards the edge of the road. And, of course, there are the occasional unexpected potholes and water crossings to watch out for.

All in all, though, Namibia's roads are quite remarkable — particularly considering the distances involved. The major gravel roads are generally very well maintained, and driving them is very much part of the Namibian adventure.


Arrival at The Desert Grace


Pink refrigerator, The Desert Grace
Near Solitaire, Namibia 2026


Eventually, after the shaking and the dust, we reach the turn-off to The Desert Grace and the approximately 12-kilometre private road leading to the lodge.

Here we encounter the first gimmick.

At the top of a small hill stands a completely pink refrigerator, inviting travellers to stop for a break. Pink is, as we soon discover, something of a trademark at The Desert Grace .

We park, walk up the hill and help ourselves to some homemade, ice-cold juice from the refrigerator while enjoying the view across the surrounding desert.

A charming and original idea — and a rather promising start.


The Desert Grace private road
Namibia 2026


First Impressions of the Lodge

When we arrive at The Desert Grace itself, the lodge appears almost completely isolated in the desert. Everything is beautifully maintained, carefully designed and immaculate.

As expected, we are greeted with warm, damp towels and another refreshing drink. Our rooms are not quite ready, so the staff direct us to the bar, appropriately named “One Night in Namibia”, where we settle down on the terrace.

Looking around, it is immediately clear that this is a very impressive property. The architecture and interiors are dominated by modern design and a sense of considerable luxury. Everything is spotless and maintained to an almost obsessive degree.

It is quite a contrast to our stay at the Family Hideout — perhaps precisely why it works so well as a short stop between two longer and more adventurous stays.


Our Private Desert Villas

Eventually, we are shown to our “rooms”.

In reality, they are small, completely independent little houses, situated at the end of a 200-metre-long raised concrete walkway above the surrounding terrain.

A member of staff formally sets off with our luggage on a gleaming, chrome luggage trolley.

It looks slightly surreal here in the middle of the desert.

But then again, that is part of the concept — and clearly something they have perfected here.


Towards our rooms
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


The accommodation is spectacular and in absolutely pristine condition. There isn't a speck of dust anywhere. The bathroom is enormous, with both indoor and outdoor showers, while the toilet has a direct view of the desert through a huge glass panel.

There is also a completely private terrace with its own little plunge pool.

Unfortunately, the water is decidedly chilly at this time of year.

We spend the afternoon relaxing in the sunshine on our private terrace, enjoying the luxury — and, not least, washing the accumulated dust of the desert off ourselves.


Own private plunge pool and peace
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


Our room
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


Dinner and the Group Dynamic

In the evening, dinner is served in the stylish restaurant, with enormous glass panels overlooking the desert. We are given what is probably the best table in the restaurant, with a beautiful view towards a distant ridge of red dunes.

There is, however, one cloud on the horizon.


The buffet, The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


A large coach group with visitors from the other side of the world arrives for dinner. They are accommodated around a large communal table and, throughout the evening, there is a constant flow of people coming and going from the table, creating considerably more noise and activity than the other guests had expected in what otherwise feels like a very peaceful and exclusive lodge.

The buffet also becomes something of a spectacle. Almost immediately after arriving, several of these guests head for the meat station — while others make a beeline for the dessert section. The following morning, the same group effectively empties parts of the breakfast buffet while preparing substantial packed lunches for the day ahead, wrapping the food in napkins and packing it into their bags.

It is, in its own way, an interesting observation of how differently people can approach a communal buffet and group holiday dynamics.

But for us, the sheer size and activity of the group rather changes the atmosphere of the lodge. We later hear that large organised tour groups are a relatively regular occurrence here, and it is probably the main reason why we would choose somewhere smaller and more private next time.

Fortunately, this does not prevent us from having a very enjoyable evening.


Night Sky and Scorpion Walk


We find numerous small scorpions
Can be deadly for small children
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026


Later, we join one of the highlights of our stay: a private night-sky and scorpion walk.

Armed with UV torches, we head out into the darkness to search for scorpions among the rocks and sand while simultaneously enjoying the spectacular Namibian night sky.

And yes — the scorpions really do glow under ultraviolet light.

Our guide is exceptionally knowledgeable and pleasant, and we find numerous small scorpions during the walk. They may be tiny, but they are certainly not harmless. A sting is extremely painful and can be deadly for small children, while healthy adults will typically survive it but may endure several days of significant pain.

They are the same general type of creature that I had rather more intimate contact with during our previous journey to the Kalahari — an experience you can read about here (link).


We are enjoying the African night sky
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026


Standing beneath the enormous African night sky, surrounded by nothing but desert and darkness, is a wonderful way to end the day.


Final Thoughts


The Desert Grace near Solitaire
Nice but one cloud on the horizon
Namibia 2026


If it were not for the large organised tour group from the other side of the world, I would probably give The Desert Grace the highest possible rating as a one-night stop between Sesriem and Swakopmund.

Instead, I will settle for saying that it was a comfortable and enjoyable place to recharge our batteries — and, equally importantly, to get the desert dust out of our clothes and bodies.

For us, however, the experience also confirms that next time we would probably choose somewhere smaller and more private.

Tomorrow, we continue towards Swakopmund — with the Gaub and Kuiseb passes waiting ahead.