A Day Trip to Lüderitz, Diaz Point, and shopping disaster!

Diaz Point Lighthouse
Namibia 2026

We are heading out on a day trip to the historic coastal town of Lüderitz, passing once again the haunting ghost town of Kolmanskop, where drifting desert sand continues its slow and relentless work of reclaiming the abandoned diamond-mining settlement. We have visited Kolmanskop before in 2022, so if you are interested in our previous experience and pictures, you can read about it in an earlier blog post (link).

Our first destination today is Diaz Point, on the rugged peninsula just outside Lüderitz.

This is a place with a remarkable history. On 25 July 1488, the Portuguese navigator Bartolomeu Dias landed here during his voyage along the west coast of Africa and erected a padrão – a stone or wooden cross-like monument used by Portuguese explorers to mark their discoveries and claim the territory for Portugal. The original monument has long since disappeared, and the cross now standing at Diaz Point is a replica. Fragments of the original Diaz Cross were, however, discovered in the area in the 1950s.

110 km nearly straight asphalt road
Near Lüderitz just before sanddunes
Namibia 2026

The drive from Klein Aus Vista towards Lüderitz is an experience in itself. For almost 110 kilometres, the asphalt road runs in an almost perfectly straight line, with barely a bend to break the monotony. Our entertainment is therefore provided by the endless desert views and the occasional abandoned railway station building alongside the tracks. The railway is no longer in operation, and some of the old buildings are now slowly disappearing beneath the sand – noticeably more so than when we were here four years ago.

About 20 kilometres before Lüderitz, the scenery suddenly becomes more dynamic. Sand is blowing across the road, and a single heroic bulldozer is engaged in what looks very much like an eternal battle against the desert. It is difficult to imagine that anyone could ever permanently win that particular contest.

Single heroic bulldozer
Near Lüderitz batteling sanddunes

As we approach Lüderitz, we turn left onto the D701 towards the peninsula opposite the town. Almost immediately we begin seeing the first flamingos in the shallow lagoons.

The landscape is extraordinarily barren and rugged. In fact, it has an almost lunar appearance – and makes the supposedly lunar landscape around Sorthat on my native island of Bornholm look rather bonsai-like in comparison.

Before reaching the lighthouse and Diaz Point, we stop at Guano Bay, where we have a fine view towards Halifax Island. The bay and the surrounding coastline are part of an internationally important marine and bird area. The extremely productive waters off Lüderitz are influenced by the Benguela upwelling system, supporting large numbers of seabirds, while Halifax Island itself is an important breeding site.

There are beautiful seashells scattered everywhere across the otherwise harsh landscape, and more flamingos can be seen in the distance. It is a strange but beautiful combination: almost complete absence of vegetation, brilliant blue water, white shells and pink flamingos.

Guano Bay, near Diaz Point
Namibia 2026

Guano Bay, flamingos
Namibia 2026

Diaz Point

When we finally arrive at Diaz Point, we are pleasantly surprised. Considering how exposed and inhospitable the landscape is, the area is remarkably tidy and well maintained.

There is even a tiny café, Skip Skop, with extremely friendly service. Since we are planning a proper lunch later, we settle for some chips – served with garlic and tomato ketchup. An unusual but excellent combination! The coffee is surprisingly good too.

Café Skip Skop near Diaz Point
Namibia 2026

From the café it is only another 200 metres to the parking area beside the Diaz Cross. From here we walk across the rocks towards the steps leading up to the viewpoint and the replica cross.

The old wooden footbridge that once provided access has completely collapsed, so the approach is now somewhat more rugged. But perhaps that actually suits the place.

Way to Diaz Cross
Namibia 2026

 

Standing beside the cross, with the waves of the cold Atlantic crashing against the rocks below, it is easy to appreciate why this exposed headland must have made such an impression on the Portuguese explorers more than five centuries ago.

The combination of history, ocean and extreme desert landscape makes Diaz Point one of those places that is difficult to forget.

Information board Diaz Point
Namibia 2026

Lunch in Lüderitz

The drive back into Lüderitz is easy, and we stop for lunch at Essenzeit, overlooking the harbour and the old wooden bridge.

We order a wonderful seafood platter, with all sorts of fresh produce from the ocean. The price is remarkably reasonable, and sitting here looking out over the harbour while eating fresh seafood feels exactly right. In a fishing town like Lüderitz, you also have the comforting feeling that the ingredients have not travelled particularly far to reach your plate.

Bloggers seafood platter
Essenzeit, Lüderitz
Namibia 2026

 

The great Saturday shopping disaster

There is, however, another important reason for today's trip to Lüderitz.

We plan to stock up at the SPAR supermarket for the next three nights, which we will spend completely on our own at a farm in the NamibRand Nature Reserve in the Namib Desert. We need enough food and drinks to be self-sufficient.

Unfortunately, the author of this blog had overlooked one rather important detail:

On Saturdays, all the shops close at 14:00 and don't reopen until Monday morning, oops!

Suddenly, our carefully planned shopping expedition looks considerably less clever.

Good advice is expensive – and we are now in need of some.

Our solution is a combination of improvisation and mild desperation. We order some extra takeaway from Essenzeit – lamb chops curry – and buy tomatos and onions at street stall, soft drinks at the local petrol station. Everything goes straight into the car fridge.

Blogger at street stall in Lüderitz,
Namibia 2026

Back at Klein Aus Vista, we then empty the little local shop of whatever useful supplies remain. Finally, we raid the trust box in our cottage for additional provisions.

Somehow, against all odds, we end up reasonably well equipped for three nights in the Namib Desert.

It may not have been the shopping strategy we originally had in mind, but sometimes the best travel stories start with a mistake.

And tomorrow we leave the last shops behind and head deep into the NamibRand.

Hiking the Schutztruppe Trail – wild horses and a desert in bloom

 

Blogger on viewpoint
Schutztruppe Trail, Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026

One of the great attractions around Klein-Aus Vista, on the edge of Tsau Khaeb National Park (Sperrgebiet area), is the choice of hiking trails, ranging from relatively easy walks to more demanding mountain routes. There are also numerous mountain-bike trails winding through the rocky landscape. The trails are clearly marked with different-coloured arrows, and information reception is available at Klein Aus Vista which can provide maps and details of the individual routes.

We are given an overview of the various possibilities on arrival and decide on the yellow-marked Schutztruppe Trail.

Schutztruppe Trail
Namibia 2026

According to the Klein-Aus Vista guide, the trail is 10.8 km long, takes approximately three hours and is graded Easy to Intermediate. It is described as a particularly varied route through the Aus Mountains, combining spectacular scenery with the fascinating historical remains of the area.

The trail starts at the Klein-Aus Vista campsite – a place that brings back memories, as we stayed here with our children back in 2009. From the campsite, we climb towards one of the high viewpoints. The trail initially follows the same section as the Vista Trail, which climbs gradually before reaching a junction and then continues up to the viewpoint. The final 400-metre climb is rewarded with a magnificent panorama over the desert plains, with the vast horizon stretching seemingly forever. From here you can also look down towards the Stone Horse, the large land-art sculpture galloping across the desert floor.

It is the perfect place for our first little break.

Wife and family
Schutztruppe Trail viewpoint
Namibia 2026

We return along the trail to the junction before continuing on the yellow route. Soon we reach a gate and enter a landscape of enormous granite boulders and dry riverbeds. A particularly beautiful section takes us through an almost alley-like row of (Pappea capensis) trees, providing some welcome shade before the trail winds onwards through the rocky terrain.

Eventually the trail joins one of the old Schutztruppe support roads. These historic tracks once connected the German positions on the western side of the Aus Mountains with water and supplies further east. During the First World War, soldiers, horses and mules used these steep and winding routes to cross the mountains.

We pause in the shade of a huge boulder for a while, enjoying the extraordinary surroundings. It is one of those places where the scale of the landscape makes you feel very small indeed.

The route then continues upwards – considerably longer and somewhat steeper than we had expected – before eventually beginning the descent towards Geisterschlucht, or Ghost Valley.

The route then continues upwards
Schutztruppe Trail
Namibia 2026

The Hudson in Ghost Valley

At the bottom of the valley we come across one of the area's strangest historical relics: an old, completely rusted Hudson Terraplane car, its bodywork still peppered with bullet holes. The story is worthy of a desert legend. 

Rusted Hudson Terraplane car
bodywork peppered with bullet holes
Namibia 2026

According to the local tale, the 1934 Hudson Terraplane car belonged to two diamond smugglers who had stolen diamonds from the nearby Sperrgebiet. They were pursued by the police and eventually caught in Geisterschlucht, where a gunfight took place. Both smugglers were killed, but the diamonds were never recovered (we did not find them). According to the legend, their ghosts still return to the valley on moonlit nights, searching for their lost treasure. The rusty, bullet-riddled car is therefore said to be the very relic of that dramatic encounter.

Whether the story is entirely true is another matter. As with so many old Namibian stories, fact and legend have become rather inseparable over the years. But standing beside the rusting Hudson, deep in this isolated valley, it is remarkably easy to believe that there might be something to the story.

Blogger and wife
Rusted Hudson Terraplane car
Namibia 2026

The wild horses of the Namib

Just after leaving the old Hudson and emerging from the valley, we suddenly spot Namibia's famous wild horses.

And what a sight.

We encounter Namibia's famous wild horses
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026

They are standing in absolutely magnificent light, with the mountains and the immense desert landscape behind them. It is one of those completely unexpected wildlife encounters that makes you stop in your tracks. How lucky can you be?

The horses of the Namib are not indigenous African wild horses but descend from domestic horses introduced by Europeans. Their precise origins have been debated for decades. The two strongest theories connect them with horses from the Kubub stud farm near Aus and with horses belonging to the South African Union forces stationed at Garub during the First World War. In 1915, a German aircraft bombed the Union camp at Garub, reportedly scattering around 1,700 grazing cavalry horses. Some of the horses may have escaped and never been recaptured.

The Kubub theory is particularly intriguing. Emil Kreplin, a former mayor of Lüderitz, operated a stud farm at Kubub and bred both workhorses and racehorses. Historical photographs show striking similarities between some of these horses and today's Namib horses. Over time, abandoned and escaped horses are thought to have moved towards the permanent water supply at Garub, where they gradually established the free-ranging population we know today.

Namibia's famous wild horses
Klein Aus Vista
 Namibia 2026

Their survival in such an extreme environment is remarkable. They have adapted to an arid landscape where water and grazing are both scarce, and the population has repeatedly been reduced by severe drought and predation. The Klein-Aus Vista booklet notes that the population declined dramatically during a period of drought and spotted-hyena predation, from around 190 animals to only 74 while the Stone Horse land-art project was being created.

The horses have therefore become much more than simply an unusual attraction. They are a symbol of survival and adaptation in one of the harshest environments imaginable.

And seeing them here, unexpectedly and in such perfect light, makes the encounter all the more special.

A desert in bloom

Flowers on the  Schutztruppe Trail
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026

The walk takes us considerably longer than the three hours suggested in the booklet – although that is hardly surprising. We stop constantly to enjoy the view and take photos.

The landscape is simply too beautiful to hurry through.

Following good winter rainfall, the normally austere desert can be transformed almost beyond recognition. Tiny succulents and other desert plants burst into flower, creating carpets of pink, purple, yellow and white between the rocks. The area around Aus is exceptionally biodiverse despite receiving only around 80–90 mm of rain annually. It lies at the meeting point of three biomes – the Southern Namib Desert, Nama Karoo and Succulent Karoo – while differences in rainfall, slopes, soils and rock formations create an extraordinary diversity of habitats. Many of the plants and animals are endemic to the region. 

Flowers on the  Schutztruppe Trail
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026

This is the famous Namibian desert flower spectacle, and we are lucky enough to experience it at its best. We take far too many photographs of flowers that are tiny and easy to overlook under normal circumstances, but which, after rain, transform the entire landscape.

It is one of the great pleasures of travelling in Namibia: learning to look down as well as across.

A landscape shaped by time

For the nerds, the scenery around Klein-Aus Vista is not simply beautiful – it is extraordinarily old.

The Aus Mountains form part of the ancient Namaqualand Metamorphic Complex, with geological formations dating back roughly two billion years. Around Klein-Aus Vista, the rocks include granitic gneisses, pink quartz-feldspar rocks, quartz veins, biotite schists and amphibolites. The rounded granite boulders are particularly characteristic and have been shaped over immense periods by weathering.

The desert climate continues to shape the landscape today. Strong winds carry sand from the surrounding plains, while intense temperature differences between day and night cause rocks to expand and contract. Layers of rock gradually peel away in a process known as onion-skin weathering, producing the rounded boulders and sculptural rock formations that are so characteristic of Klein-Aus Vista. 

Eagels Nest, Klein Aus Vista
Rounded boulders & sculptural rocks
Namibia 2026

The result is a remarkable combination of bare rock, dry riverbeds, mountain slopes, isolated trees and succulents – seemingly barren at first glance, but actually supporting a surprisingly rich ecosystem.

And this is perhaps what makes walking here so rewarding. The landscape is vast, but the really interesting things are often very small.

After 11 kilometres of walking, countless photographs and more stops than we can remember, we finally make it back to the campsite and our car before driving the 7 km to Eagels Nest.

It has been an excellent way to get some exercise after all those hours spent sitting in the car.

And after a long walk through the mountains, our grilled dinner tastes especially good that evening.

Blogger and wife relaxing at The Boulder
Waiting for braai and sunset
Namibia 2026

Sunset from the terrasse The Boulder
Eagels Nest, Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026

On the Edge of the Sperrgebiet Diamond Area

Wife at "our half" of The Boulder
Near Klein Aus Vista (Sperrgebeit)
Namibia 2026

We have arrived at Klein Aus Vista, just outside the sleepy little town of Aus. There isn't an enormous amount happening in Aus itself, but it does have a petrol station, a surprisingly well-stocked little grocery shop and, somewhat unexpectedly, a rather smart hotel.

We have booked three nights in The Boulder, a unique self-catering stone cottage built around an enormous granite boulder. The cottage blends beautifully into the surrounding landscape and offers complete peace and privacy on the edge of the former Sperrgebiet.

For more than a century, this vast area was closed to the public because of its rich diamond deposits. Today, the former Sperrgebiet forms part of Tsau Khaeb National Park, protecting an extraordinary desert environment within the Succulent Karoo, one of the world's recognised biodiversity hotspots. The region is particularly famous for its remarkable succulent flora and pristine desert ecosystems.

Welcome Back to Klein Aus Vista

Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026

We receive a warm and heartfelt welcome at the reception of Desert Horse Inn. The staff are, just as on our previous visit, exceptionally friendly and service-minded. They explain everything about the lodge, provide us with a map of the many walking trails and hand over the keys to our stone cottage, located about seven kilometres from reception at the foot of the mountains.

The reception at Desert Horse Inn is surprisingly well equipped for such a remote location. Most basic necessities can be bought here, including braai packs for the barbecue. There is also a pleasant swimming pool and a cosy restaurant with a distinctly German influence—perhaps not surprising given the area's history.

For our first two evenings, however, we have decided to enjoy the privacy of The Boulder. We buy a braai pack containing lamb chops, oryx skewers and baked potatoes, ready for an evening barbecue overlooking the Sperrgebiet.

When we arrive at the cottage, it is every bit as unique as we had hoped.

The Boulder, near Klein Aus Vista (Sperrgebeit)
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026 

The Boulder is built from local stone and materials and wraps itself elegantly around a gigantic granite boulder, perhaps eight metres high. The architecture is remarkably well integrated into the landscape, making it difficult to tell where the natural rock ends and the cottage begins.

Inside is a cosy communal living area with a wood-burning stove and, quite possibly, the best-equipped honesty bar I have encountered to date. It is certainly an impressive collection for a self-catering cottage in the middle of the desert.

There are two completely private sleeping areas, each with its own shower bathroom and magnificent views across the desert directly from the bed. Both bedrooms also have their own covered stone terrace with a table and chairs.

The Boulder (half), our terrace
Namibia 2026

Our room with a view to
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026

In front of the cottage stands another large granite boulder, complete with a natural rock pool that serves as a birdbath. It provides endless entertainment as birds come and go, completely unconcerned by their human observers.

The other stone cottages are sufficiently far away that everyone can enjoy complete privacy.

What a unique place!

It lives up fully to our already very high expectations.

The Boulder from the distance
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026

A Sunset Worth Remembering

Sunset Tsau Khaeb National Park
From our terrasse
Namibia 2026

On our first evening, we prepare dinner on the barbecue while the sun begins its slow descent over the Sperrgebiet.

The colours are extraordinary—deep reds, violets and shades of khaki changing almost by the minute as the sun sinks towards the horizon. We are particularly fortunate to have a few clouds in the sky, catching and reflecting the colours and turning an already spectacular sunset into something quite extraordinary.

Clouds catching reflecting colours
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026

Once the sun has disappeared, there is a short period of almost complete darkness before the moon rises. Venus shines brilliantly in the clear sky, and then the Milky Way gradually takes centre stage. With virtually no artificial light anywhere around us, the night sky is simply spectacular.

Milkey Way above our terrace (red)
Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026

And tonight is particularly special.

We are celebrating 32 years of marriage, in the company of my brother and sister-in-law, in one of the most beautiful and memorable settings imaginable.

It is a reminder that, in the end, it is about collecting memories rather than possessions.

Good food on the braai, wonderful company, an unforgettable desert sunset and a bottle of South African Cava that we brought from Fish River Canyon Lodge especially for the occasion.

The setting could hardly have been more perfect.

And neither could the company.

Celebrating 32 years of marriage
At sunset, Tsau Khaeb National Park
Namibia 2026

Celebrating 32 years of marriage
collecting memories rather than possessions
Tsau Khaeb National Park, Namibia 2026

Brothers at the braai
Tsau Khaeb National Park, Namibia 2026

The Arimas River Road – A Desert in Bloom

 

Arimas River Road with desert in bloom
Brother opening one of many gates
Namibia 2026

Arimas River Road D463
Namibia 2026

Leaving Fish River Canyon behind [link], we follow the beautiful Arimas River Road, a route we have driven once before in 2022 and one that remains among our absolute favourites in Namibia [link]. In our opinion, it rivals even the famous D707, which we will encounter later on this journey.

The road winds through magnificent desert scenery with remarkably little traffic, making the drive itself one of the highlights of the day.

Arimas River Road D463
Rest and peace
Namibia 2026

Our destination is Klein Aus Vista, where we have booked the unique self-catering stone cottage known as The Boulder for three nights.

Before setting off, we make sure that the road has not been washed away by the exceptionally heavy rainfall three weeks earlier. Several times along the way we cross the normally dry Arimas River. Compared with our previous visit, there are now several more gates to pass through, accompanied by signs reminding visitors not to camp or collect firewood.

It seems that more people have discovered this beautiful road following the Arimas River, with its impressive mountains rising on either side. Perhaps the secret is slowly getting out.

D463 Delivers Again

What a beautiful drive!

We don't meet a single car during the entire 100-kilometre journey. Once, we spot a lone shepherd far away in the distance. Otherwise, there is nothing but uninterrupted wilderness.

And yet, something is very different this time.

The desert is blooming.

Arimas River Road D463
Desert blooming
Namibia 2026

The landscape is transformed by an extraordinary display of colour. Patches of yellow, purple, white, red and peach flowers appear everywhere, mixed with fresh green grass, dry grass tufts and the occasional hardy tree along the river valley.

It is difficult to believe that this is the same landscape we drove through on our previous visit.

We stop several times to take photographs, but eventually decide that there is only one sensible thing to do: stop in the middle of the road for a coffee.

Arimas River Road D463
Coffee and flower photo stop!
Namibia 2026

There we sit, surrounded by flowers, grasses and mountains, with not another vehicle in sight.

We feel extraordinarily privileged to witness something that is both fleeting and highly unusual. In a land where drought is normally such a defining part of the landscape, the sudden explosion of colour feels almost magical.

The Arimas River Road delivered the first time we drove it.

This time, it delivers again—only now wrapped in flowers.

Arimas River Road D463
Namibia 2026

Arimas River Road D463
Namibia 2026

Fish River Canyon – When the Desert Comes Alive

Blogger and brother
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

 

After two nights in the Kalahari, we continue southwest towards one of Namibia's greatest natural wonders—the spectacular Fish River Canyon.

Often described as the second-largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon, the Fish River Canyon stretches for around 160 kilometres through southern Namibia. At its deepest, the canyon plunges approximately 550 metres below the surrounding plateau, while in places it becomes several kilometres wide. It is an extraordinary landscape of ancient rock, twisted geological formations and seemingly endless dry riverbeds.

The canyon was carved over millions of years, primarily by the Fish River, Namibia's longest river. Today, the river is usually little more than a series of pools and sandy channels, but after heavy rains it can transform dramatically, carrying huge volumes of water through the gorge.

Peculiarly, despite its spectacular scale, Fish River Canyon remains relatively unknown internationally. Compared with the crowds visiting the Grand Canyon or even Namibia's better-known attractions such as Etosha and Sossusvlei, remarkably few travellers make the long journey into southern Namibia. Perhaps that is part of its charm.

For the next two nights we will stay at Fish River Canyon Lodge, which enjoys an extraordinary location right on the edge of the canyon. Few hotels can honestly claim to offer a true "room with a view", but this is certainly one of them.

We have already had the pleasure of staying here once before, when we visited in 2022 [link], and we are particularly excited to show the place to my brother and sister-in-law. There is something slightly wild about staying virtually on the edge of one of Africa's great geological features. Our chalets are perhaps five to ten metres from the precipice, and waking up to the vast canyon stretching across the landscape is an experience that never becomes quite ordinary.

Our two houses, living on the edge
Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026

The Desert Is Blooming!

As we approach the canyon from the north along the D463, we see something we have never experienced during our seven previous trips to Namibia.

The desert is blooming!

The southern part of Namibia has experienced unusually good rainfall over the past couple of years, and the effect on the landscape is remarkable. Much of the vegetation here is adapted to surviving long periods of drought, with seeds and plants capable of remaining dormant until sufficient rain arrives. When the rains finally come, the transformation can be astonishingly rapid.

The normally harsh, barren landscape suddenly becomes covered in grasses and tiny flowers. Many of the plants are succulents or other highly specialised drought-adapted species, including various members of the ice-plant and daisy families. Some appear almost overnight, taking advantage of the brief window when water is available.

It is difficult to imagine that this colourful landscape is the same desert we have driven through on previous visits.

We stop several times to take photographs, something that will become a recurring feature of the next few days. Every few kilometres there seems to be another patch of flowers or an especially photogenic combination of red earth, green vegetation and blue sky.

D463 on the way to Fish River Lodge
Desert blooming!
Namibia 2026

Southern Namibia, desert blooming
Namibia 2026

The Road to the Edge

Eventually we reach the entrance to Fish River Canyon Lodge, where another small adventure awaits.

The final approach involves around 20 kilometres of challenging track across rough, rocky terrain. The journey begins with a rather entertaining descent down a steep concrete ramp, consisting of two narrow tracks that need to be hit rather precisely.

We watch my brother's reaction with some amusement. It is exactly the same mixture of concentration and excitement that we remember from our own first descent here.

Then comes the real reward.

Staff are waiting for us with warm white towels and homemade juice. But the formalities of check-in are quickly forgotten when we walk into the main lodge and see the view through the building towards the pool, the distinctive quiver trees and, beyond them, the enormous canyon.

It is almost impossible to look at anything else.

Fortunately, the staff are used to this. We are eventually persuaded to complete the necessary formalities before being shown to our accommodation.

Pool and terrace, Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026

We have been given two of the best chalets, tucked away in a secluded position right on the canyon edge (see pictore above). Everything is beautifully maintained. There is a comfortable king-size bed positioned to take full advantage of the view, an outdoor shower, a large concrete terrace for sunbathing and a spacious indoor bathroom. Everything is clean, neat and in excellent condition.

The wind can apparently be quite fierce here, and the exposed position means that it can make quite a noise around the chalets. We are fortunate, however, with only a gentle breeze during our stay and, as expected for this time of year, gloriously clear blue skies.

Down into the Canyon

Brother and sister-in-law
Descending into canyon
Namibia 2026

We have booked a full-day 4WD excursion into the Fish River Canyon, an experience we enjoyed on our previous visit in 2022 [link].

It is a spectacular drive.

The track descends through narrow mountain passes and follows the canyon walls, with some sections providing an almost uninterrupted view down into the abyss. It is not an excursion for anyone with a serious fear of heights. Those sitting on the outside of the vehicle occasionally find themselves looking straight down into the canyon with very little between them and many metres of empty space.

We share the vehicle with a friendly Swiss family and are fortunate to have an excellent guide, Justice, who knows both the terrain and the history of the canyon extremely well.

Exciting track into Fich River Canyon
Namibia 2026

One welcome change since our last visit is that the excursion now includes more stops and opportunities to walk. On some of the longer sections, we can get out and hike along the track before being collected further ahead by the support vehicle. It makes the day feel less like simply being driven through the canyon and gives us much more time to appreciate the extraordinary geology and scale of the landscape.

Eventually we reach the last major viewpoint before beginning the descent into the inner canyon.

And here we encounter the consequences of the recent rains.

The track along the mountainside that we followed on our previous visit has been washed away by the unusually heavy rainfall. Around three weeks earlier, approximately 75 mm of rain had fallen in a very short period, enough to cause substantial erosion and completely remove parts of the track.

Our driver takes a longer alternative route, and eventually we reach the canyon floor.

There is one final reward waiting for us: swimming in the Fish River.

 

Wife swimming in Fish River
Namibia 2026

 

The water is cold—very cold—but after a long and dusty drive through the canyon, it is wonderfully refreshing. We spend around two hours at the bottom, enjoying a relaxed lunch served on a newly constructed wooden terrace beneath a huge rock overhang.

It is one of those moments when the effort required to get somewhere makes the experience all the more rewarding.

Relaxing at new wooden terrace
Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026

Eventually it is time to head back up.

The return journey is considerably faster, although the same dramatic scenery remains. By the time we reach the top again, we are tired, slightly dusty and thoroughly satisfied.

It was worth the entire journey to southern Namibia.

A Perfect End to the Day

Back at the lodge, the evening is wonderfully relaxed.

Dinner is served in the beautifully designed main building, where comfortable leather furniture, warm lighting and two wood-burning stoves create a cosy atmosphere. It is winter in the southern hemisphere, and once the sun disappears, temperatures can drop rapidly.

Ready for dinner, Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026

Before dinner on our arrival day, we also managed to squeeze in a beautiful walk to a nearby viewpoint. The trail was relatively short but lead to an excellent vantage point over the canyon and surrounding landscape.

We highly recommend doing this walk if you arrive early enough. There is something particularly satisfying about standing quietly above the canyon just before sunset, knowing that the long drive has finally brought you to one of Namibia's truly extraordinary places.

Fish River Canyon is not simply a destination you visit. It is a landscape you have to travel to—and that effort is very much part of the experience.

Brothers on the edge of Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

Our two houses on the left
Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026

Fish River Lodge chalets
Rim walk, Namibia 2026

Pool and terrace Fiah River Lodge, sunrise
Namibia 2026

Our route from Bagatelle to Fish River Lodge
Add 25% to all Google Map´s timings
Namibia 2026