Bushmans Kloof – Wilderness, Wellness and a Touch of Downton Abbey

 

Library, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

We are approaching the gates of Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat (link), which describes itself as a “five-star award-winning luxury wellness and wilderness retreat in the Western Cape.”

Well, that certainly sounds promising.

Admittedly, it also sounds rather different from many of our usual favourite places – remote campsites, isolated lodges and simple houses somewhere in the Namib Desert, preferably reached after several hours on gravel roads.

But perhaps one can learn to live with luxury wellness too.

From the N7 into the Cederberg

Landscape changes dramatically
Cederberg Mountains
South Africa

We have driven roughly 350 kilometres straight south along the N7 before turning east at Clanwilliam towards the Cederberg Wilderness Area.

From here, the landscape changes dramatically as we head through the beautiful Pakhuis Pass and eventually reach the entrance to Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve.

We stop in front of a large closed gate and press the intercom.

Almost immediately, a cheerful voice comes through:

“Welcome! We have been expecting you and have been looking forward to your arrival. Just continue approximately seven kilometres along the track to the lodge.”

That is quite a welcome.

The automatic gates swing open, we drive through, and they close again behind us.

There is perhaps no turning back now.

A Slightly Different Kind of Arrival

Trees in front of "event building"
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Eventually, we reach the lodge itself, which consists of several low buildings scattered through beautifully landscaped grounds, mostly in what I suppose could best be described as a refined cottage style.

The final driveway takes us between immaculate green lawns, exotic plants, large old trees and palms.

This is certainly not the desert anymore.

As we pull up outside reception, three members of staff are standing in a perfectly straight line waiting for us.

Think Downton Abbey.

The moment we step out of the car, the lodge manager welcomes us warmly. He introduces the other two members of our reception committee: the receptionist on duty and Niel, who will be our personal guide for the next three days.

The manager then casually explains that we can simply hand the car key to Niel. He will take care of the luggage and the car.

And that is the last we see of our Toyota Hilux for three days.

When it eventually reappears, it has – almost miraculously – been washed as well.

I could get used to this.

The receptionist now presents us with warm, damp white cloths on a tray so we can refresh our hands before being escorted inside.

We are offered homemade rooibos iced tea while the formalities are dealt with. “Formalities” turns out to mean handing over one passport for a quick copy.

There is apparently no reason why guests should be troubled with unnecessary paperwork.

Instead, we can concentrate on admiring the reception area with its enormous wooden table, heavy leather furniture and African art covering the walls.

Beautifully furnished sitting rooms
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Would Sir Prefer the Tour First?

We are asked whether we would like to see our cottage immediately or perhaps have a tour of the property first.

Naturally, we choose the tour.

We are curious.

Back outside, the first building pointed out to us is Bushmans Kloof's event venue, a huge structure beside a small stream. In front of it is a beautiful terrace beneath enormous old trees, their long hanging branches creating something resembling natural curtains between the tables.

A little farther away is the first of the property's infinity pools.

Pool number one.

The next building is perhaps 30 by 20 metres with a ceiling that must be 10 or 12 metres high.

Its purpose?

High tea.

Of course.

High tea is served every afternoon at 3 pm, and it is apparently an event sufficiently important to justify having its own substantial building.

Perfectly reasonable.

Immediately outside is infinity pool number two.

Guests arriving by helicopter near tea house
Bushmans Kloof, South Africa 2026 

We later discover that the lawn in front of the tea house also serves as the landing area for helicopters bringing in guests who apparently find the approximately two-hour drive from Cape Town somewhat inconvenient.

We have arrived in a slightly different world.

Kitchen Gardens and Wellness

Next, we pass the lodge's beautiful kitchen garden, surrounded by a low white wall intended to keep wildlife on the correct side.

Inside are immaculate vegetable beds and shaded growing areas protecting the plants from the strong South African sun.

Much of what eventually appears on our plates apparently originates here.

Beside the garden is, naturally, the spa and wellness centre.

Our receptionist reassures us that someone from the spa will contact us later in the day once we have settled in, should we wish to arrange any treatments.

One would hate to miss the opportunity to become well.

Leather Chairs, Log Fires and a Proper Bar

Ornamental pond at night
Bushmans Kloof, South Africa 2026

We continue towards the main bar and restaurant area.

First, we cross a small ornamental pond using large stepping stones. In the evening, it is beautifully illuminated.

Then we enter through an enormous wooden door.

Inside, the style is unmistakably old-world African lodge: dark timber, huge pieces of furniture, heavy leather armchairs, African art and open fireplaces.

There are fires burning in the hearths.

Bar, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

To the left is an enormous bar, where the extremely friendly bartender immediately welcomes us and tells us that we must not hesitate to ask if there is anything at all we need.

It is a sentence we are going to hear rather frequently during the next three days.

Walk straight through past the bar and you reach a secluded courtyard containing pool number three – this one heated – surrounded by a pergola with small tables beneath it.

To the right of the bar are three interconnected dining rooms.

Blogger in library
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

To the left is the library.

And this is not merely a decorative hotel library consisting of six coffee-table books strategically positioned beside a leather chair.

It contains an impressive collection of classic African literature.

One could quite comfortably disappear into one of the enormous leather armchairs here for several hours with a book.

Or, indeed, write a travel blog.

Decorations in sitting rooms
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Beyond the library is a succession of beautifully furnished sitting rooms, eventually leading into a heritage room with historical San and Khoi artefacts and displays describing their traditional way of life and the cultural history of the Cederberg.

The entire place feels somewhere between an elegant country estate, an African wilderness lodge and a rather eccentric private museum.

In a good way.

Our Home by the Water

Our humble cottage "Water´s Edge 2"
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Bathtub Water´s Edge 2
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Eventually, we reach our own cottage: Water's Edge 2.

And the name is quite literal.

Our bungalow sits immediately beside a small lake, with wildlife moving through the surrounding grounds and across the water.

There is a private terrace from which to watch it all, as well as sun loungers on the lawn immediately in front of the cottage.

Not bad at all.

But there is no time to linger.

We have arrived just in time for high tea.

High tea, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

High Tea – Naturally

The view from our cottage
Moon and lake, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

We return to the dedicated tea house, where three members of staff are ready to look after the approximately six guests present, including us.

This appears to be a perfectly normal staff-to-guest ratio at Bushmans Kloof.

High tea comes with the expected collection of beautifully presented savoury and sweet delicacies, tea and coffee, while we sit overlooking the lawns and mountains beyond.

Occasionally somebody appears and asks:

“Is there anything else you need?”

No.

But thank you for asking.

Again.

Wilderness – Bushmans Kloof Style

High tea, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

So, yes.

We have unquestionably checked into Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat, with full board and all activities included – what at slightly more primitive establishments might simply be called all inclusive.

The principal disturbances to the peace and quiet here appear to be members of staff occasionally interrupting the silence to ask whether we need anything.

Or perhaps a helicopter landing on the lawn in front of the tea house with another group of arriving guests.

These are hardships we shall endeavour to endure.

And despite all the luxury, we have certainly not forgotten the wilderness part of Bushmans Kloof.

Our first activity is already arranged: later this afternoon, Niel will take us into the reserve on a nature drive, ending with a sundowner somewhere in the Cederberg landscape.

It will be interesting to see what the next few days bring.

But after only a few hours here, I am beginning to suspect something.

Yes.

I think I could probably get used to luxury wellness after all.

Springbok and 4x4 in Goegap Nature Reserve – Hunting Desert Flowers

Fantastic 4x4 day in Goegap Nature Reserve!
Namibia 2026

The border and Annie’s Guesthouse

Crossing into South Africa
(Still) Namibia 2026

Crossing the border from Namibia into South Africa via Noordoewer was, fortunately, a remarkably painless affair — with one small exception.

Our Customs Declaration was apparently more than 24 hours old and therefore had to be renewed. Unfortunately, there was only one computer with internet access available to everyone crossing the border, and each person took around 15 minutes. Not exactly a high-throughput operation.

Still, we got away with it. A little over an hour later, we were through the border, and it has to be said that every official we met was friendly, helpful and perfectly pleasant. So, despite the slow computer, no complaints.

Charming Annie’s Guesthouse
Springbok, South Africa 2026

After another 150 kilometres south, we arrive in Springbok, a small provincial town in the Northern Cape, and check into the charming Annie’s Guesthouse.

Bridal suite, Annie’s Guesthouse
Springbok, South Africa 2026

Once again, we have somehow ended up booking a bridal suite. At Annie’s, however, the concept takes on a very different meaning. The room feels less like a modern honeymoon suite and more like stepping into an old Danish klunkehjem — the wonderfully ornate, late-19th-century Danish style of interior that seems to have been designed on the principle that there is no such thing as too much decoration.

There are colourful paintings everywhere, heavily draped curtains, ornaments, and decorative objects competing for attention. And, naturally, there is a large old-fashioned clawfoot bathtub.

It is cosy, charming and completely different from the restrained Scandinavian aesthetic we are used to. In other words, we rather like it.

Breakfast, Annie´s Guesthouse
Springbok, South Africa 2026

At breakfast we meet Annie herself. She is now 83 and still very much involved in running the place. It is a pleasure to talk to her and to wander around her beautiful home and garden, both filled with an impressive collection of decorative objects.

There is, however, one slightly unexpected feature: Italian pop music is playing continuously somewhere in the background.

One can tell that the guesthouse has been around for a while, and some things are beginning to show their age. But it remains a wonderfully atmospheric place to stay, the breakfast is excellent, and overall Annie’s makes a very good base for exploring Springbok and the surrounding area.

The hunt for desert flowers begins

Spektakel Pass, hunting desert flowers
South Africa 2026

There is a reason we have stopped in this part of South Africa.

I have promised my wife that we will go hunting for desert flowers in Namaqualand.

Namaqualand is famous for one of nature’s more extraordinary seasonal transformations. Following sufficient winter rain, the normally dry and seemingly barren landscape can suddenly explode into colour during the spring months. Vast areas become covered with carpets of wildflowers — daisies, vygies and numerous other species — turning the desert into something that looks almost unreal.

The catch, of course, is that desert flowers are not particularly interested in our travel plans.

The timing has to be right. There needs to have been enough rain, followed by the right temperatures and sunshine. And even then, some areas may be spectacular while others, only a few kilometres away, remain relatively bare.

So we begin our search by driving through the two nearby mountain passes, Sandhoogte Pass and Spektakel Pass.

Green landscape, few flowers
South Africa 2026

The scenery is certainly impressive. The landscape is surprisingly green, with dramatic mountains and broad open spaces. But when it comes to flowers, there is little to get excited about.

Time for Plan B.

Goegap Nature Reserve

Goegap Nature Reserve, heading for 4x4 trails
South Africa 2026

The following day we decide to try our luck at Goegap Nature Reserve, just outside Springbok.

The reserve protects a spectacular piece of Namaqualand landscape, with rugged mountains, open plains and typical succulent Karoo vegetation. It is also home to a variety of wildlife, including springbok, zebra and oryx, and — when conditions are right — an impressive display of wildflowers.

But there is another reason we are particularly interested in Goegap.

There are several 4x4 trails.

We drive to the park entrance and immediately wonder whether we have got the opening hours wrong.

The place looks completely deserted.

We park the Hilux in an otherwise empty parking area. There is a door standing open, so we walk inside and are greeted by an extremely friendly ranger.

We can recommend yellow tracks
Goegap Nature reserve
South Africa 2026

Within minutes, she has given us all the information we need, a map of the reserve and, more importantly, some very useful advice about which 4x4 routes to choose — and which ones not to choose.

There are several options.

Bloumyn, an area around an old mine high up on one of the mountains, is apparently closed because the track is no longer passable. She also strongly advises us against the Witsand Pass area, which is a long and technically demanding 4x4 route.

Instead, she suggests that we take a large loop all the way to Ja-leegete and then return via Klippad.

There is one particularly interesting section on the Klippad route. It is graded 4 out of 5 for difficulty.

The park's grading system describes a level 4 as a “technical trail for the experienced”.

Level 5, on the other hand, is described as “extremely technical, suitable for only very experienced drivers, with vehicle damage a very real possibility.”

We are perfectly happy with a short section of level 4.

The park's grading system, 4x4 trails
South Africa 2026

Almost no one else has thought of this

We are genuinely surprised by how beautiful the reserve is.

After driving through Spektakel Pass the previous day, we had not expected quite so much.

But here the desert is surprisingly lush. There is vegetation everywhere, the mountains are magnificent, and the track winds through a landscape that feels completely untouched.

And, best of all, we seem to have the place almost entirely to ourselves.

We seem to have the place
almost entirely to ourselves!
Goegap Nature Reserve 4x4 trails
South Africa 2026

Most visitors appear to take the ordinary 2WD tourist route. We see only one other vehicle during the next three to four hours.

For us, this is close to perfect.

The Hilux gets to do what it´s built for
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

The Hilux gets to do what it was built for, while we get to experience the landscape at our own pace.

At Ja-leegete we come across a larger herd of zebra. Shortly afterwards, a group of springbok suddenly bounds across the road in front of us, performing their unmistakable ballet-like leaps.

Large herd of zebra
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

It is one of those moments when you are very happy to have the windows open and the air-conditioning switched off.

Desert flowers
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

Wife and desert flowers
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

The Klippad challenge

On Klippad track
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

We continue onto the Klippad track.

After stopping for a break near a small natural spring, the character of the drive changes.

4H becomes 4L.

First gear.

And then we start climbing.

The track is rocky and narrow, with rocks and bushes crowding the sides. Progress is slow and deliberate. This is not about speed. It is about placing the four wheels exactly where you want them.

We have all the windows open and the air-conditioning off. It is warm, but that is exactly how we want it.

We want to hear the tyres on the rocks, the engine working in low range and the sounds of the reserve around us.

After a while, the really steep sections begin — this time going downhill.

And downhill is always worse.

Going uphill, at least, you can see where you are going.

Going down a steep, rocky track, the bonnet can completely block your view of what lies immediately in front of the vehicle. Sometimes the only solution is to stick your head out of the side window and look down the track. At other times, someone gets out and directs the driver.

Every wheel placement matters.

We carefully avoid the deepest ruts, where the underbody could easily be damaged. We also steer around larger rocks that have rolled onto the track.

But the most treacherous obstacles are not necessarily the obvious ones.

Small streams have cut across the track over time, undermining the road, particularly on the downhill side. In places, the erosion has created a surprisingly deep trench right alongside the track.

The trick is to keep the vehicle high on the safe side.

Too far towards the low side, and one wheel can suddenly disappear into the eroded section.

And if that happens, the 4x4 adventure is over.

You are then looking at a potentially very long wait for help — ideally another vehicle equipped with a winch.

So we take our time.

Very slowly.

Very carefully.

Focused on the rocky track
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

And, strangely enough, it is immensely satisfying.

There is something almost therapeutic about being completely focused on a rocky track.

For hours, there is nothing else.

No emails. No phones. No work. No plans.

Just the Hilux, four wheels, a rocky trail and the next obstacle.

It is pure concentration — and, in its own peculiar way, pure therapy.

Especially when the therapy session takes place in the middle of this extraordinary landscape.

Flowers, wildlife and four-wheel-drive therapy

Fantastic day in Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

We end up having a fantastic day in Goegap Nature Reserve.

We find desert flowers, although perhaps not quite the spectacular carpets we had secretly been hoping for. We see zebra and springbok in their natural habitat, explore a beautiful and surprisingly green landscape, and get exactly the amount of 4x4 driving we were looking for.

Challenging enough to be exciting.

Technical enough to require concentration.

But not so extreme that we start wondering whether our travel insurance covers vehicle recovery in the middle of nowhere.

Most importantly, the ranger's advice at the entrance turns out to be spot on. Choosing the right route makes all the difference, and we are very glad we took the time to listen carefully to her recommendations.

Back at the park office, we relax for a while. During the flower season there is a small kiosk where visitors can order food, and behind the office we discover a lovely little rock garden.

We found flowers
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

Across the road is another attraction: a small “forest” of quiver trees, their distinctive shapes standing out against the surrounding landscape.

It is a fitting end to a day that has delivered far more than we expected.

Now it is time to head back to Springbok.

Tomorrow we have a long drive ahead of us towards the Cederberg Mountains — and what is supposed to be a luxury retreat.

After today, we are curious to see whether it can possibly live up to the standard

From Desert to Water – Canoeing the Orange River

 

Provenance Camp Cabanas
Our camp at Orange River
Namibia 2026

After several days of driving through some of the driest landscapes in southern Namibia, the idea of spending several days on a river feels almost surreal. Yet here we are, heading towards the banks of the Orange River – a strip of green water cutting through one of the driest corners of southern Africa.

We are leaving Gondwana Canyon Park behind and heading south towards the Orange River, which is more than 2,000 kilometres long and the longest river in South Africa. It rises as the Senqu in the highlands of Lesotho and flows westwards through South Africa before eventually reaching the Atlantic Ocean at Alexander Bay.

On its lower reaches, the Orange River forms much of the border between Namibia and South Africa. That is our destination. It is also where we will cross into South Africa after our river adventure, having spent some time literally paddling between the two countries.

There is, however, a slightly amusing geographical technicality. Unlike most international river borders, where the boundary follows the middle of the river, the Namibia–South Africa border follows the northern bank of the Orange River. So, technically speaking, once we are on the water, we are already paddling in South Africa – even though we will not officially enter the country until tomorrow.

Heading for the river

Landscape becomes even drier as we approach the river

The road south towards the Orange River follows C37. Surprisingly, the landscape becomes even drier as we approach the river. Eventually, we turn sharply west towards Aussenkehr, with the final part of the drive taking us through the Aussenkehr Nature Reserve.

Road follows Gamchab River on right
Before Aussenkehr Nature Reserve
Namibia 2026

The road follows the Gamchab River, a tributary of the Orange River, on our right. The contrast is striking. The surrounding landscape is dry, barren and beautifully desolate, while the vegetation becomes surprisingly lush wherever there is water in the riverbed. In most places, the Gamchab is little more than a dry, sandy channel, but in a few sections there is still water.

And then, quite suddenly, Aussenkehr appears.

Aussenkehr informal settlement
Namibia 2026

Aussenkehr informal settlement
Namibia 2026

After all the empty desert landscapes of the past few days, it is a rather dramatic change of scenery. Aussenkehr is an informal settlement, with small houses and shelters built from whatever materials are available. Suddenly there are people, houses and activity where, only minutes earlier, there had been nothing but desert.

Vineyards Aussenhehr
Namibia 2026

And then something even more unexpected appears: vineyards.

On both sides of the road are extensive vineyards, producing grapes that are used mainly for juice and raisins. The vines survive here thanks to irrigation from the Orange River. The climate is simply too hot and sunny for conventional wine production – although, given the amount of sunshine, one suspects the grapes are not exactly complaining.

Wine, Aussenkehr
Namibia 2026

It is a bizarre transition. From apparently endless desert to a surprisingly green agricultural landscape in the space of a few kilometres. The Orange River is already making its presence felt long before we actually reach it.

Provenance Camp Cabanas

Honeymoon suite
Provenance Camp Cabanas
Namibia 2026

After a pleasant lunch stop in Aussenkehr, we finally reach Provenance Camp Cabanas, where we have booked something rather more extravagant than we normally would for a canoe trip: their honeymoon suite.

And what a location.

The "house" is partly built on stilts right on the riverbank, with a spectacular 180-degree view over the Orange River. It is also positioned directly beside a set of rapids, meaning that the soundtrack is provided by rushing water 24/7.

Not exactly white noise.

More like nature's version of a permanently running shower.

180-degree view over Orange River
Honeymoon suite
Namibia 2026

We are here to paddle with Felix Unite, who offers a range of Orange River canoe trips, from relatively short excursions to multi-day adventures with overnight camping along the river. Their longer trips are particularly tempting, including the more luxurious Orange River African Magic, which combines several days on the river with camping in the wilderness.

Unfortunately, the dates of our journey do not fit with one of the longer expeditions, so we have settled for a three-hour introductory canoe trip starting from their base at Provenance Camp.

A shame, really – but at least we get a taste of what could be done on a future visit.

We are here for a
Orange River canoe trip
Namibia 2026

Three hours on the Orange River

Original old Mercedes-Benz
Namibia 2026

The next morning we meet the rest of our group beside the rather original old Mercedes-Benz bus that Felix Unite uses to transport guests.

The night in the honeymoon suite has been extremely comfortable, accompanied throughout by the constant roar of the rapids outside.

We are driven approximately 10 kilometres upstream before walking the final stretch down to the river. After a safety briefing, we are introduced to our canoes and fellow paddlers.

Safety briefing, Felix Unite
Namibia 2026

It is quite a mixed group. Some have never been in a canoe before, while others clearly know what they are doing. The age range is equally broad.

We are soon on the water and wait for the rest of the group to get organised.

We wait for the rest of the group
Orange River, Namibia 2026

Then we simply drift downstream with the current.

The scenery is impressive: mountains, rocky riverbanks and the occasional person pass by as we make our way through the landscape. This is, however, not exactly untouched wilderness. The section of the Orange River we are paddling is actively used, with occasional pumping stations extracting water for agricultural land above the river. There are houses, electricity lines and people along the banks.

So "pristine wilderness" would be stretching the truth.

But it is perfectly pleasant, and the combination of desert mountains and a broad, green river remains quite spectacular.

Moving water ahead
Orange River
Namibia 2026

We encounter several sections of moving water, where we paddle in single file through small rapids, carefully avoiding the rocks. Nothing particularly challenging if you have some previous canoeing experience – although perhaps a little more exciting for those who do not.

Short break on a sandy beach
Orange River, Namibia 2026

After a short break on a sandy beach, we continue downstream for another 45 minutes.

And then comes the final rapid.

This one is different.

As soon as we enter the current, we need to turn sharply towards the right-hand bank and the base camp before being swept into the next section of rapids.

We are the first canoe behind the guide's boat and negotiate it without any problems.

The canoe immediately behind us has less luck.

They get caught across the current and capsize.

For a moment, there is genuine drama. From where we are, we can only see one of the passengers on the surface, and there is a brief and rather uncomfortable fear that the other person may still be underwater.

Fortunately, she appears a little later on the other side of the overturned canoe. Both passengers eventually make it safely to shore, dragging the canoe behind them.

A little shaken, but otherwise fine – and now with considerably better material for the evening's storytelling.

Fortunately, there are neither crocodiles nor hippos in the Orange River.

Which, at this particular moment, feels like an important piece of information.

Neither crocodiles nor hippos
Orange River, Namibia 2026

An evening at Provenance

Back at Provenance Camp, we have dinner at the restaurant well before some of the larger groups arrive. This is on the recommendation of the staff, who suggest that we eat early to avoid the rush.

Now that is good hospitality.

It is nice to see a place thinking about how guests can have the best possible experience – particularly after some of our previous much more expensive restaurant encounters.

Provenance Camp Cabanas is not a luxury lodge. It is much more of a canoe and outdoor activity camp, with a slightly laid-back, almost surfer-like vibe.

The bar stays open until midnight, and the accommodation ranges from basic camping to the rather more glamorous honeymoon suite.

We enjoy our stay precisely because the place is what it claims to be. The atmosphere is relaxed, the staff are exceptionally friendly and helpful, and there is no pretence that this is something it isn't.

And the honeymoon suite is actually quite luxurious – and, in our opinion, available at a very fair price.

Would we do it again?

Bar, Provenance Camp Cabanas
Namibia 2026

Absolutely – but next time, we would do it properly.

If we return, the plan would be to join one of the longer Orange River expeditions, perhaps the Orange River African Magic, with several nights camping along the river.

Three hours on the river have given us just enough of a taste to realise that there is much more to explore. A multi-day trip would provide a far more immersive experience of the river, the mountains and the extraordinary landscape surrounding it.

For now, though, the canoe adventure has been a very enjoyable change of pace.

After days of dust, rocks and desert, there is something wonderfully refreshing about sitting in a canoe and simply letting a river carry you through the landscape.

Tomorrow, however, we are entering South Africa for real.

The border crossing at Noordoewer is only about 10 kilometres away. We have been warned that the crossing can take anything from 30 minutes to four hours.

So much for the relaxing end to our canoe adventure...