Sandwich Harbour – Where the Dunes Meet the Atlantic

 

Blogger and family on tour to Sandwich Harbour
Namibia 2026

Back to Sandwich Harbour

We are heading for Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours, a company specialising in first-rate guiding to some of the least accessible but most spectacular parts of Namibia. We already know Turnstone from previous adventures, and there is also a more personal connection.

We first visited Sandwich Harbour in 2009 with our two children. Some of our favourite photographs from that trip show them running through the pristine dunes as nine- and ten-year-olds. In 2024, we returned to Sandwich Harbour with our best friends, although that time with another company (link).

We also know Bruno, the owner of Turnstone, from his extraordinary rewilding project, Mundulea Private Nature Reserve in the Otavi Mountains. We spent three days there with him, staying in a simple bush camp and walking through the reserve. It remains one of our most unforgettable African experiences — and easily makes our personal Top 10 of African adventures.

By now, we have travelled to 22 countries, including seven journeys to Namibia and neighbouring countries. You can read about our memorable walking adventure with Bruno — including our “encounter” with a leopard — here (link). And perhaps you would also enjoy the rather amusing story about the “tiger” (link).

So today we are back with Turnstone, and we are very much looking forward to another encounter with one of Namibia's most extraordinary landscapes.

Along the Atlantic Coast

The day starts early, when we are picked up at The Stiltz in Swakopmund.

We drive south along the beautiful chain of dunes bordering the Atlantic, zigzagging across the old railway line that once connected Swakopmund and Walvis Bay.

Once again, we notice the remarkable amount of activity out in Walvis Bay. Drilling rigs and large ships are scattered across the bay, while new beach houses and other developments seem to be appearing along the coast almost by the week.

It is difficult not to wonder what this coastline will look like in another decade.

We pass Bird Rock, a small guano island supporting an enormous colony of seabirds and one of the early examples of attempts to commercialise the natural resources of Namibia's coast.

Further south, we reach the Walvis Bay Lagoon and the wetlands stretching towards Sandwich Harbour. Both Walvis Bay and Sandwich Harbour are recognised as socalled Ramsar Wetlands of International Importance, reflecting their extraordinary importance for coastal and migratory birds. Sandwich Harbour itself covers about 16,500 hectares.

The Walvis Bay lagoon and the surrounding wetlands support large numbers of flamingos, waders, terns, pelicans and other coastal birds. We see mainly flamingos and cormorants today.

Flamingos at Walvis Bay Lagoon
Namibia 2026

The flamingos are particularly spectacular.

Hundreds of them stand or feed in the shallow water, their pink bodies reflected in the surface. Combined with the sea mist, the reflections create an almost surreal atmosphere.

It is completely enchanting.

Into the Kuiseb Delta

Hammock dunes meet salt works from above
Namibia 2026

After Walvis Bay, we pass the enormous salt works before reaching the lower reaches of the Kuiseb Delta.

It is slightly amusing to think that only yesterday we were many hours' drive away, standing high above the desert on the Kuiseb Pass (link).

The Kuiseb Delta is a remarkable transition zone where the river's ephemeral influence creates a surprisingly productive ecosystem in an otherwise hyper-arid landscape. The surrounding dunes and salt pans provide habitat for a variety of wildlife, including oryx, springbok and jackals.

After a short biological stop at the rather smart new facilities at the entrance to the area, we begin our approach to Sandwich Harbour.

We drive past barren salt pans and vegetation-covered hammock dunes, where small groups of oryx, springbok and jackals shelter from the harsh coastal environment.

We see them all.

We also encounter both dead and living seals along the coast, although there are no sightings today of ostriches or the occasional brown hyena that can also occur in this remarkable area. Fortunately, we see brown hyena later on the trip.

Vegetation-covered hammock dunes
Namibia 2026

Where the Dunes Meet the Ocean

Where dunes meet Atlantic Ocean
Our Scenic Flight the day after
Namibia 2026

And now the exciting part begins.

The next section of the journey is as dramatic as the landscape is vast, and it soon becomes obvious why Sandwich Harbour has such a reputation for being inaccessible.

Here, the Namib Desert simply runs out of land.

On one side of our Land Rover are enormous dunes, rising more than 100 metres above us. On the other is the Atlantic Ocean.

Nowhere to go, we wait for the waves to retreat
Sandwich Harbour, Namibia 2026

There is almost nowhere to go.

The route is dictated by the tide, the waves and the constantly shifting sand. We wait for the waves to retreat before making a short dash of perhaps 20–50 metres towards the next patch of firmer sand, while keeping a very close eye on the large breakers rolling in on our right.

This is not a place for mistakes.

According to our guide, since 1 April this year, it has been prohibited to undertake the Sandwich Harbour drive without a guide. Standing here now, with the towering dunes on one side and the powerful Atlantic on the other, the restriction makes perfect sense to us.

Several vehicles have been swallowed by the sea here, and the combination of steep dunes, soft sand and a rapidly changing tide can turn a seemingly harmless stretch of beach into a serious situation.

We are fortunate to have an experienced guide, Rudi, behind the wheel. It is obvious that he has done this many times before, but he is also constantly alert, carefully watching the waves, the sand and the changing conditions.

That is reassuring.

We drive where dunes meet Atlantic Ocean
Sandwich Harbour, Namibia 2026

After a tense and exciting section of driving, we finally get past the most difficult part. Fortunately, the tide is already on its way out, meaning that our return journey later in the day should be considerably easier.

Sandwich Harbour in the Mist

On one of the area's highest viewpoints
Sandwich Harbour, Namibia 2026

We now climb dramatically up through the dunes to one of the area's highest viewpoints, overlooking Sandwich Harbour.

The panorama should be spectacular.

And it probably is.

Unfortunately, the famous coastal fog, or “havgus” as we call it in Danish, has other plans for us.

Instead of a clear view, the harbour and ocean are partly hidden in a veil of mist. But rather than being disappointed, we find that the fog gives the landscape an extraordinary, almost mysterious atmosphere.

Looking out towards this wild coastline, it is easy to imagine how terrifying it must have been for sailors whose ships came to grief along the Skeleton Coast.

There is very little between the towering dunes and the Atlantic.

A Roller-Coaster Through the Dunes

We drive inland through the high dunes
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026

Because we have booked a private full-day tour with our own vehicle, Rudi suggests that we drive inland through the high dunes and wait for the coastal fog to lift before having lunch.

What follows is one of the most entertaining and nerve-racking drives of the trip.

We climb and descend enormous sand dunes, some of them incredibly steep. The old Land Rover bounces and tilts as we negotiate the slopes, and suddenly every handhold inside the vehicle becomes useful.

It is like a desert roller coaster.

We laugh, shout and occasionally wonder whether this particular slope is really intended to be driven down!!

Fortunately, Rudi seems to know exactly what he is doing.

Lunch in the Namib

We enjoy a delicious homemade lunch
in the back dunes
Namibia 2026

Eventually, we reach a high viewpoint deep among the back dunes.

We get out and explore the surrounding landscape, walking and playing among the enormous dunes while Rudi prepares lunch in the shelter of the Land Rover.

And naturally, there is a tablecloth.

This is Namibia, after all.

We sit in the warm, hazy sunshine, sheltered from the wind by the vehicle, and enjoy a delicious homemade lunch of lasagne and salad.

Around us stretches nothing but the endless Namib Desert.

It is one of those moments when the journey itself becomes the destination.

Blogger enjoying enormous dunes
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026 

Wife and  sister-in-law
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026

A Landscape Shaped by Sand and Sea

Sandwich Harbour is much more than a spectacular viewpoint. It is a remarkable coastal wetland where the Namib Desert meets the Atlantic Ocean, creating an ecosystem that seems almost impossible in such an arid environment.

The lagoon and surrounding wetlands are internationally recognised for their importance to waterbirds and migratory species. The combination of freshwater influence from the Kuiseb system, coastal fog, tidal waters and extensive dune fields creates a highly unusual environment within the Namib. Sandwich Harbour was designated a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance in 1995.

But what makes the place particularly extraordinary for visitors is the sheer physical drama.

Towering dunes plunge almost directly into the Atlantic. The beach can disappear beneath the incoming tide, while the dunes are constantly reshaped by the wind.

It is an environment where sand and sea are in a permanent struggle for territory — and where a Land Rover has to choose its route very carefully.

Sea Lion
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026

An Unforgettable Day

By the time we eventually turn back towards Swakopmund, we have experienced almost everything Sandwich Harbour can offer: flamingos in the mist, wildlife among the dunes, a thrilling drive along the narrow strip between ocean and sand, enormous dunes, a roller-coaster journey through the back country and a wonderful lunch in the middle of nowhere.

We have visited Sandwich Harbour before.

But this time, with Turnstone and an experienced guide like Rudi, we have seen a completely different side of it.

The combination of spectacular scenery, challenging driving and the sheer unpredictability of the environment makes this one of those days that will stay with us for the rest of our lives.

And once again, we feel incredibly privileged to be able to experience this extraordinary corner of Namibia.

Wife and sister-in-law
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026

 

Lunch site
Private Sandwich Harbour Tour
Namibia 2026

Through the Gaub and Kuiseb Passes to Swakopmund

 

Blogger and brother in Kuiseb Pass
 above Kuiseb River canyon
Namibia 2026

After our enjoyable stop in Solitaire, we continue towards Swakopmund, crossing the spectacular Gaub and Kuiseb mountain passes. This is the main tourist route between Swakopmund and Sossusvlei — a beautiful journey through some of the Namib Desert’s most dramatic landscapes.

Solitaire has become noticeably busier since our first visit in 2009. We stop for coffee and some of McGregor’s large cookies, rather than their famous apple pie, before setting off towards the mountains.

At McGregor’s, Solitaire
Namibia 2026 

The Gaub Pass winds through rugged desert terrain, while the Kuiseb Pass follows the dramatic Kuiseb River canyon, cutting through ancient rocky landscapes. We look forward to a booked scenic flight over this area. The road repeatedly rises and falls through barren mountains and dry river valleys, making this one of the most scenic sections of the journey.

As we approach the coast, the landscape gradually changes to flat again. We reach Swakopmund via Walvis Bay and the coastal road, and it is striking to see how much new development is taking place along this stretch.

As we approach the coast
landscape gradually changes to flat again
Namibia 2026

The bay is also dotted with drilling rigs and large vessels. With the recent offshore oil discoveries, it is impossible not to wonder what the future holds for this spectacular coastline.

Busy in Walvis Bay
Taken on scenic flight 2 days later
Namibia 2026

Let's hope Namibia manages to develop its new resources without sacrificing the extraordinary natural environment that makes this coast so special.

Arriving at The Stiltz

Our cabins, built on stilts
On Swakop River bank near ocean
Namibia 2026

In Swakopmund, we check into The Stiltz, a collection of small wooden chalets built on stilts where the Swakop River reaches the Atlantic Ocean.

We have booked the best available sea-view bungalows, with direct views across both the ocean and the river mouth with flammingoes walking around. The location is hard to beat. Tiger Reef Beach Bar is right next door, making it an ideal place for a sunset drink, while the centre of Swakopmund is within easy walking distance.

The view from our window
The Stiltz, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026

The chalets are clearly not brand new, but they are clean, comfortable and perfectly maintained. And the location more than makes up for their age.

The cold coastal nights are no problem either: there are electrically heated mattress pads and an electric heater in the room. There is plenty of hot water in the shower and surprisingly generous space inside.

The property is secured behind a gate that is locked at night, with a friendly security guard on duty. The staff are exceptionally welcoming and helpful.

After the long drive from the desert, it feels good to be back on the Atlantic coast.

We are looking forward to the next few days — and to some wild new adventures in and around Swakopmund!

Link to our previous stay in The Villa, Ocean Breeze (link)

Link to previous trip through Gaub and Kuiseb Passes with more pictures (link)

The Desert Grace – A Luxurious Stop in the Desert

 

The Desert Grace bar
Namibia 2026

The Journey Through the Namib Desert

Most often excellent roads in Namibia
Grader working
Namibia 2026

We are heading towards Swakopmund, where we will cross the two spectacular mountain passes of Gaub and Kuiseb. To make the journey a little less demanding, we have decided to break it up with one luxurious overnight stop at The Desert Grace.

On our way to Desert Grace, we fill up with diesel in Sesriem. It pays to take advantage of every opportunity to refuel, even though our Toyota Hilux can manage around 1,200 kilometres with its additional tank. You simply never know when the next fuel station might have run dry.

The road along the C27 through the NamibRand Nature Reserve is exactly as corrugated as we remember it from previous journeys. The relentless shaking is somewhat softened by the sight of a large group of zebra and the spectacular scenery all around us.

The final section via the C19 from Sesriem towards Solitaire is much the same, although this time we encounter considerably more oncoming traffic. Most vehicles leave behind an enormous 500-metre-long cloud of dust, so it becomes important to react quickly and switch the ventilation system to recirculation before the dust gets inside.

The shaking on Namibia's corrugated roads is appropriately known as the “Bush Massage”. One trick is to maintain around 70–90 km/h, allowing the vehicle to float over the corrugations rather than hitting every ridge individually. You just have to remember to slow down again for the bends, some of which have the rather unfortunate characteristic of being “cambered the wrong way”, towards the edge of the road. And, of course, there are the occasional unexpected potholes and water crossings to watch out for.

All in all, though, Namibia's roads are quite remarkable — particularly considering the distances involved. The major gravel roads are generally very well maintained, and driving them is very much part of the Namibian adventure.

Arrival at The Desert Grace

Pink refrigerator, The Desert Grace
Near Solitaire, Namibia 2026

Eventually, after the shaking and the dust, we reach the turn-off to The Desert Grace and the approximately 12-kilometre private road leading to the lodge.

Here we encounter the first gimmick.

At the top of a small hill stands a completely pink refrigerator, inviting travellers to stop for a break. Pink is, as we soon discover, something of a trademark at The Desert Grace .

We park, walk up the hill and help ourselves to some homemade, ice-cold juice from the refrigerator while enjoying the view across the surrounding desert.

A charming and original idea — and a rather promising start.

The Desert Grace private road
Namibia 2026

First Impressions of the Lodge

When we arrive at The Desert Grace itself, the lodge appears almost completely isolated in the desert. Everything is beautifully maintained, carefully designed and immaculate.

As expected, we are greeted with warm, damp towels and another refreshing drink. Our rooms are not quite ready, so the staff direct us to the bar, appropriately named “One Night in Namibia”, where we settle down on the terrace.

Looking around, it is immediately clear that this is a very impressive property. The architecture and interiors are dominated by modern design and a sense of considerable luxury. Everything is spotless and maintained to an almost obsessive degree.

It is quite a contrast to our stay at the Family Hideout — perhaps precisely why it works so well as a short stop between two longer and more adventurous stays.

Our Private Desert Villas

Eventually, we are shown to our “rooms”.

In reality, they are small, completely independent little houses, situated at the end of a 200-metre-long raised concrete walkway above the surrounding terrain.

A member of staff formally sets off with our luggage on a gleaming, chrome luggage trolley.

It looks slightly surreal here in the middle of the desert.

But then again, that is part of the concept — and clearly something they have perfected here.

Towards our rooms
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

The accommodation is spectacular and in absolutely pristine condition. There isn't a speck of dust anywhere. The bathroom is enormous, with both indoor and outdoor showers, while the toilet has a direct view of the desert through a huge glass panel.

There is also a completely private terrace with its own little plunge pool.

Unfortunately, the water is decidedly chilly at this time of year.

We spend the afternoon relaxing in the sunshine on our private terrace, enjoying the luxury — and, not least, washing the accumulated dust of the desert off ourselves.

Own private plunge pool and peace
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

Our room
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

Dinner and the Group Dynamic

In the evening, dinner is served in the stylish restaurant, with enormous glass panels overlooking the desert. We are given what is probably the best table in the restaurant, with a beautiful view towards a distant ridge of red dunes.

There is, however, one cloud on the horizon.

The buffet, The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

A large coach group with visitors from the other side of the world arrives for dinner. They are accommodated around a large communal table and, throughout the evening, there is a constant flow of people coming and going from the table, creating considerably more noise and activity than the other guests had expected in what otherwise feels like a very peaceful and exclusive lodge.

The buffet also becomes something of a spectacle. Almost immediately after arriving, several of these guests head for the meat station — while others make a beeline for the dessert section. The following morning, the same group effectively empties parts of the breakfast buffet while preparing substantial packed lunches for the day ahead, wrapping the food in napkins and packing it into their bags.

It is, in its own way, an interesting observation of how differently people can approach a communal buffet and group holiday dynamics.

But for us, the sheer size and activity of the group rather changes the atmosphere of the lodge. We later hear that large organised tour groups are a relatively regular occurrence here, and it is probably the main reason why we would choose somewhere smaller and more private next time.

Fortunately, this does not prevent us from having a very enjoyable evening.

Night Sky and Scorpion Walk

We find numerous small scorpions
Can be deadly for small children
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026

Later, we join one of the highlights of our stay: a private night-sky and scorpion walk.

Armed with UV torches, we head out into the darkness to search for scorpions among the rocks and sand while simultaneously enjoying the spectacular Namibian night sky.

And yes — the scorpions really do glow under ultraviolet light.

Our guide is exceptionally knowledgeable and pleasant, and we find numerous small scorpions during the walk. They may be tiny, but they are certainly not harmless. A sting is extremely painful and can be deadly for small children, while healthy adults will typically survive it but may endure several days of significant pain.

They are the same general type of creature that I had rather more intimate contact with during our previous journey to the Kalahari — an experience you can read about here (link).

We are enjoying the African night sky
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026

Standing beneath the enormous African night sky, surrounded by nothing but desert and darkness, is a wonderful way to end the day.

Final Thoughts

The Desert Grace near Solitaire
Nice but one cloud on the horizon
Namibia 2026

If it were not for the large organised tour group from the other side of the world, I would probably give The Desert Grace the highest possible rating as a one-night stop between Sesriem and Swakopmund.

Instead, I will settle for saying that it was a comfortable and enjoyable place to recharge our batteries — and, equally importantly, to get the desert dust out of our clothes and bodies.

For us, however, the experience also confirms that next time we would probably choose somewhere smaller and more private.

Tomorrow, we continue towards Swakopmund — with the Gaub and Kuiseb passes waiting ahead.

NamibRand – Desert Days, Oryx and a Windblown Sundowner

 

NamibRand Family Hideout
Milkey Way
Namibia 2026

Back to NamibRand

We arrive at “our” lovely farm, The NamibRand Family Hideout, remotely situated in south-western Namibia within the stunning NamibRand Nature Reserve, one of Southern Africa’s largest private nature reserves. We are looking forward to settling in and enjoying the spectacular views across the vast plains towards the ancient blue mountain ranges.

After unpacking and settling into the house (link), we decide to take a drive along the approximately 5-kilometre self-drive 4WD track. It is a beautiful and, from a driving perspective, not particularly difficult route through the surrounding landscape — a perfect introduction to the terrain before our much longer four-hour nature drive, which we have booked in advance.

Oryx suddenly appear,
standing with their calves
Namibia 2026

We have just passed the first sandy rise when two large oryx suddenly appear, standing with their calves in the shade of a tree only about 30 metres from us. We see oryx everywhere in this part of the reserve. They are remarkably well adapted to life in this extraordinarily dry environment and can survive with little or no access to drinking water, obtaining much of their water from the plants they eat and conserving water with highly efficient physiological adaptations. Their ability to cope with dehydration and heat is one of the reasons they can thrive in landscapes where surface water is virtually absent.

It is wonderful to be able to drive on our own through this landscape, although the restrictions on where we can go are entirely understandable. In a fragile desert ecosystem like this, even apparently insignificant vehicle tracks can leave a lasting footprint, and conservation naturally has to come first.

Sunset on the Dunes

Sunset on highest sand dune
Blogger, wife and family
Namibia 2026

As sunset approaches, we decide to experience it from the highest sand dune we spotted during our earlier drive. We pack our chairs and the essential G&Ts and set off.

Climbing a steep sand dune is hard work — two steps forward and one step back! The sunset wind is already blowing quite strongly, whipping sand across the ridge, while the colours of the landscape gradually become warmer and more intensely reddish. At the same time, the lowering sun throws increasingly long shadows across the dunes and plains.

We are now close to Venus Campsite, where we stayed with good friends two years ago (link). It is one of those places where previous journeys suddenly become part of the present one.

Sun disappears behind the mountain range
Namibia 2026

There are plenty of photographs taken from the top of the dune, but eventually the sun disappears behind the mountain range — the same range where we once slept on camp beds out in the desert, while spotted hyenas visited our camp during the night on Tok Tokkie Trails (link).

Heading back for the fire
Namibia 2026

It is striking how rapidly the temperature drops in the desert the moment the sun disappears. Within minutes, we are very happy to head back to the house, the fire and our grilled lamb chops — bought during our rather unsuccessful shopping expedition to Lüderitz (link).

We are, however, suffering in the most luxurious possible way. Somehow, we even managed to acquire some fresh salad from the greenhouse near the reception where we checked in.

Evening with wife, brother and sister-in-law
NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

It is a magical evening in the company of my brother and sister-in-law. Once complete darkness has descended, but before the full moon rises, we sit outside and admire the spectacular Milky Way stretching across the sky above us (see first picture). NamibRand is particularly renowned for its exceptionally dark skies, making the desert at night almost as impressive as it is by day.

We spend a wonderfully peaceful evening in the spacious house before getting ready for our four-hour nature drive the following morning, departing at 7:30.

A Very Cold Morning

Clouds and cold morning
NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

And then we discover something quite unusual for early August: clouds!

Winter in this part of Namibia is normally characterised by dry, clear skies, warm sunshine during the day and very cold nights. Rainfall is highly erratic, and the period from roughly May through August is generally the dry season. Temperatures can fall dramatically after sunset, with frost and even sub-zero temperatures possible in the NamibRand area.

This morning is therefore a bit of an exception. It is overcast, cold and surprisingly windy.

We quickly realise, after only a few hundred metres in the open vehicle, that we have become thoroughly acclimatised to the warmth of the preceding days — and have dressed far too lightly. We are absolutely freezing as we head out into the reserve, exposed to the wind chill created by the moving vehicle.

A blanket, as provided on many other nature drives, would have been very welcome!

Sunrise cold morning
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026

Fortunately, we almost forget the cold when the sun begins to rise over the desert. The first rays illuminate a distant line of dunes, creating an extraordinary landscape of muted colours. We stop on a high dune, where we have a magnificent panorama over the surrounding wilderness.

The colours are almost surreal to our eyes: every conceivable shade of khaki, grey, sand and blue-green, changing subtly as the sun climbs higher.

Colours are almost surreal, NamibRand
Namibia 2026

Then comes the adventurous part.

Our Land Cruiser heads diagonally down a very steep sandy slope. We instinctively use arms and legs to brace ourselves, trying to prevent all four passengers from ending up on the same side of the vehicle. Fortunately, our driver clearly has complete confidence in what the Land Cruiser can do.

We are less convinced.

For a moment, it feels as though the whole vehicle might simply tip over sideways.

It doesn't.

Just before very steep sandy slope
Not possible to see on picture
Namibia 2026

Into the Unknown

From here, we continue towards the most remote south-western parts of the reserve, on a route that takes us considerably farther into NamibRand than we have ever been before. I keep trying to follow our route on my otherwise completely reliable Tracks4Africa map — but the tracks we are driving simply aren't there.

Into the unknown
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026

Desert blooming
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026

That is quite something!

The afternoon is spent relaxing — and, not least, warming up — after our exceptionally cold morning and long drive.

Late in the afternoon, another adventure awaits.

The Deception Hill Climb

We are going to climb the nearby rocky hill known as Deception Hill on what is called the “Koppie Climb”. The excursion includes transport and a guide and promises a magnificent sundowner viewpoint.

Before booking it, I had tried to establish exactly which mountain was involved and whether the climb would be suitable for our family group of four. I remember all too clearly the extremely demanding climb I once undertook alone, accompanied by two guides, to the summit of the area's highest mountain, Mount Loosberg. That expedition was wild — and at times came close to being downright irresponsible! You can read about that adventure here (link).

This little expedition, fortunately, turns out to be considerably less demanding, although there are still a few steeper´ish sections.

Leaving Land Cruiser at nearby hill
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

We drive to the nearby hill and leave the Land Cruiser at its foot. From there we follow an old livestock fence upwards over the rocky terrain, enjoying the increasingly beautiful evening light across the desert.

We are also very careful about where we put our feet. The warm rocks and sandy path are exactly the sort of places where snakes and scorpions may enjoy an afternoon sunbath.

On the way to first top
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

Eventually, slightly out of breath, we reach the top of the rocky hill.

And now we understand why it is called Deception Hill.

Because we are not actually there yet.

Not there yet!
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

A Sundowner Above the Namib

From the top of the first hill we discover that the route continues down into a saddle — and then upwards again onto a second, higher hill that had been completely hidden from view.

Not everyone in the group is equally enthusiastic about this revelation ;-)

Looking back from sand dune to rock top
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

And the second summit is different again. Instead of the rocky terrain we have just climbed, it is a steep sand dune.

But naturally, we take on the challenge.

And we are rewarded spectacularly.

As the sun begins to disappear, the desert is transformed into an extraordinary palette of reds, oranges and deep shadows. The wind is blowing hard across the dune, sending fine red sand swirling around our legs and faces.

Getting a G&T poured and safely delivered to the top of the dune is itself becoming something of a luxury expedition in the blowing sand.

But naturally, we manage.

It is a long-standing sundowner tradition in the Namibian desert — and what could be more appropriate than celebrating it with the local Desolate Gin No. 7?

We stand on top of the dune, glasses in hand, watching the last light disappear across one of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth.

On the top!!
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026

Another extraordinary day in the Namib.

Tomorrow, the next stage of our journey awaits — and with it, new adventures.

We feel very, very privileged.

From famous D707 road to our own little corner of the Namib Desert

 

Sundowner NamibRand Nature Reserve
Family on top of dune
Namibia 2026

Road C13 through Neisipvlakte Plains
Before turn of D707

Start of legendary D707 road
Namibia 2026

Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. The route runs between the red and ochre desert plains and the dramatic Tiras Mountains, with endless horizons and constantly changing colours. It is one of those roads where the journey really is as important as the destination.

We are actually rather surprised by the condition of the road. It appears almost freshly graded, with hardly any corrugation – a very pleasant change after some of the rougher gravel roads we have encountered.

Another thing that strikes us, as it has throughout this part of Namibia, is the complete absence of rubbish. There is simply nothing along the roadside except pristine desert stretching towards the horizon. The land is divided by numerous fences marking different farms and nature reserves, and we see everything from goats to small herds of oryx and several ostriches.

Driving along D707
Namibia 2026

We make a short stop at the entrence to Namtib Biosphere Reserve, where we stayed at Little Hunters Rest campsite with our children in 2009. It brings back wonderful memories. Back then we were travelling on a much more economical budget, in a 2WD with our own tent brought from Denmark, sleeping mats, sleeping bags and a Trangia stove. Considerably more primitive than today's setup – but somehow every bit as cosy, and certainly no less spectacular.

Blogger taking a break near Namtip
D707, Namibia 2026

Betta – the last stop before the desert

Eventually we reach the last place where we can refuel and stock up before heading into increasingly remote country: the tiny settlement of Betta.

We remember Betta from our previous visits, but it has clearly had something of a makeover. The little roadside establishment now has a fuel station, a well-stocked shop, restaurant and accommodation. It is all neat and clean, and makes an excellent stop on this otherwise very remote stretch of road. The facility has indeed developed over the years from a simple fuel station into a more comprehensive traveller's stop.

Well-stocked shop in Betta
and nice restaurant
Namibia 2026

We enjoy freshly made hot sandwiches with tomato, ham and cheese while sitting upstairs looking out over the desert. I add a strawberry milkshake to wash down the dust.

It is quite a civilized lunch stop in the middle of nowhere.

From here, there is little more than 60 kilometres to our destination.

Back to NamibRand

Blogger and brother 
Reducing tyre pressure at enterence
NamibRand, Namibia 2026

Enterence NamibRand Nature Reserve
Namibia 2026

Our destination is the NamibRand Nature Reserve, which has been one of the highlights of several previous journeys through Namibia.

The final 60 kilometres pass quickly, and soon we arrive at the entrance gate and the beginning of the roughly 10-kilometre access track to the NamibRand Family Hideout.

Before continuing, we stop to reduce the tyre pressure. We lower the tyres from 1.8 bar, which is suitable for the gravel roads, to around 1.3 bar. The lower pressure gives considerably better flotation and traction once we encounter loose sand.

And now the feeling changes completely.

We are heading into the desert.

NamibRand Nature Reserve

Sunset NamibRand Nature Reserve
"Sandboarding Dune"
Namibia 2026

NamibRand was established in 1984 as a private conservation initiative and today covers more than 215,000 hectares – approximately 2,150 km². That is about 5% of the area of Denmark (Denmark is approximately 43,000 km²). The reserve borders the Namib-Naukluft National Park to the west and forms part of the larger conservation landscape surrounding the Namib Desert.

The neighbouring Namib-Naukluft National Park is enormous by European standards, covering 49,768 km² and making it Namibia's largest national park. It encompasses an extraordinary variety of landscapes, including the great dune fields around Sossusvlei, gravel plains, mountains and ephemeral rivers.

NamibRand itself is a very different concept. It is a privately managed conservation area, established to protect the unique ecology and wildlife of the south-western Namib Desert. Its landscape encompasses sand dunes and sandy plains, gravel plains, mountains and inselbergs, creating an extraordinary mosaic of desert habitats.

One of the reserve's most remarkable achievements is perhaps something you cannot see during the day at all.

Our house, NamiobRand Family Hideout
And Milkey Way!
Namibia 2026

NamibRand was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2012 and has Gold Tier status – the highest level of recognition from the International Dark-Sky Association. It was the first such reserve in Africa and one of the first in the Global South. The reserve has deliberately limited artificial lighting and introduced strict guidelines to preserve the extraordinary darkness of the night sky.

That makes this one of the world's exceptional places for stargazing.

And fortunately, we have three nights here.

Our own farmhouse in the desert

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout terrasse
Making plans
Namibia 2026

For the next three nights we have rented the wonderfully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in almost complete isolation in the middle of this immense landscape.

There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light.

Just silence, space and desert.

Check-in goes completely smoothly. Fortunately, they are expecting us – despite the fact that we booked the house almost a year ago. And that is probably worth knowing: you need to be quick if you want to book this place.

When we finally reach the farmhouse, we immediately understand why.

The location is extraordinary.

We have the entire place to ourselves, with three bedrooms, three toilets and two bathrooms, all surrounded by the NamibRand wilderness. There is a cosy dining room and living room with a wood-burning stove, while covered verandas on two sides of the house provide uninterrupted views towards the desert and mountains.

A lone ostrich is wandering around a couple of hundred metres from the house, occasionally stopping to look in our direction.

Perhaps it has just had a drink from the waterhole directly in front of the farmhouse.

Rustic – in the best possible way

NamibRand Family Hideout
Indoor dining table
Namibia 2006

NamibRand Family Hideout kitchen
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

This is self-catering in the truest sense. You have to bring all your own food and drinks – something we have already learned the hard way in the previous blog post!

Fortunately, the house has everything we need: refrigerator, freezer and gas stove. Electricity comes from solar panels and is sufficient for lights and charging smaller electronic devices.

Outside, there is a partly fenced little “garden” – although garden is perhaps a generous word. It consists mostly of sand. But there is a proper fire and barbecue area, complete with everything needed for an evening around the fire.

Inside, there is plenty of crockery, glasses, cutlery, pots and pans. In other words, nothing essential is missing.

NamibRand Family Hideout
Living room
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Bathrooms / restrooms
Namibia 2026

The house is rustic, however, and that is an important part of its charm.

Do not expect a newly renovated Airbnb with designer furniture and perfectly fitting doors. Instead, expect an original farmhouse in the middle of the desert, far from everything, with the basic facilities you need to live comfortably for a few days.

The doors are crooked and stick slightly. The original windows have peeling paint. Everything shows its age.

But then there is the wood-burning stove.

It is new, and will undoubtedly become the centre of the house on the cold desert evenings.

We have booked the house with beds made up and towels provided, and everything is clean and ready for us.

Exactly as we hoped.

Three days of desert ahead

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife. We also hope to explore some of the property's 4WD tracks and, if conditions allow, perhaps climb one of the nearby mountains for panoramic views across the reserve.

This is actually our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

We have experienced it in very different ways over the years: camping with best friends at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (link), walking the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (link), and enjoying the ultimate luxury experience at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality is combined with one of Namibia's most spectacular settings (link).

This time will be different again.

No lodge.

No guide unless we choose one.

No other guests.

Just the four of us, an old farmhouse, the Namib Desert and three nights of almost complete solitude.

We cannot wait to see what the next few days will bring.

Sundowner NamibRand
Namibia 2026