Fish River Canyon – 4x4 along the edge

Blogger on the edge!
Exploring eastern side of Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

On our second day at Canyon Lodge, we set out to explore the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

Compared with the western side near Fish River Lodge [link], the most striking feature here is the sheer openness of the Gondwana Nature Park – vast plains stretching towards rugged mountains, with the canyon itself appearing almost as a dramatic incision into an otherwise endless landscape.

Wife explooring endless landscape in
Gondwana Nature Park, Fish River Canyon
Eastern side, Namibia 2026

There is another important difference. From the eastern side, you can access the deepest sections of the Fish River Canyon directly from the rim. On the western side, you typically see the outer canyon from above before descending into the inner canyon on an organised excursion. Here, the canyon is much more immediately accessible from the top.

We drive the roughly 10 km from Canyon Lodge to the Fish River Canyon entrance gate at the Hobas office. The staff are friendly and efficient, and soon we have our permits for two people and our Hilux, ready for the next leg of the adventure.

Another 10 km takes us towards the canyon rim. We have decided to follow a small track shown on the Tracks4Africa app, running for almost 20 km along the canyon edge towards Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint.

Blue dot is Eagle´s Rock Viewpoint
Fish River Canyon, Namibia 2026

It is a 4x4 route.

And, as it turns out, quite an entertaining one.

The track is rocky but reasonably straightforward as far as Sulphur Springs Viewpoint and on towards Desert Rim Viewpoint, where the track eventually ends in a dead end.

An unexpected encounter

At Sulphur Springs Viewpoint, I suddenly spot something moving between the rocks and sparse vegetation.

A scorpion.

Black Hairy Thick-tailed Scorpion 
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

And not just any scorpion.

It is a Black Hairy Thick-tailed Scorpion (Parabuthus villosus), a large and rather impressive member of Namibia's scorpion fauna. The species is characterised by its massive, thick tail, dark body and reddish-yellow legs and pincers. It is also unusually active during the day for a scorpion, meaning that it may be encountered actively during daylight hours rather than only after dark.

This one is certainly active.

It starts moving in my direction following my tracks backwards.

This has happened to me before in the Kalahari [link], when a scorpion also seemed determined to make me part of its afternoon itinerary. On that occasion, however, I was wearing sandals and had bare feet.

This time, fortunately, I am properly equipped.

I slowly retreat while managing to get some good photographs – and even two videos – of the creature.

Parabuthus villosus is a medically important species. Its venom is potent, and a sting can cause severe local pain and systemic neurological or cardiovascular effects. Serious envenoming is uncommon, but significant symptoms can occur and medical assessment is appropriate after a sting, particularly if systemic symptoms develop. In other words: this is not a scorpion I would recommend picking up for a closer look.

We watch our little friend for a while before continuing.

A fascinating and entirely unexpected encounter.

Scorpions are actually surprisingly difficult to spot in Namibia unless you are specifically looking for them. At night, they can be located relatively easily with ultraviolet light, as their exoskeleton fluoresces under UV illumination. We tried exactly that at The Desert Grace Lodge [link].

The going gets tougher

Track more challenging
Blogger building road
Fish River Canyon, Namibia 2026

As we continue towards Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint, the track becomes progressively more challenging.

In a few places I have to get out of the Hilux and inspect the route before deciding how to tackle it. There are steep sections, rocky obstacles and a few small drainage channels where parts of the track have been eroded away – presumably by the unusually heavy winter rainfall a few weeks earlier.

It is worth remembering that we are now at the end of winter in the southern hemisphere, so substantial recent rainfall is certainly not something we had expected.

The key is to keep both wheels on high ground.

The last thing you want is to have the Hilux's undercarriage resting on a rock or, even worse, to damage something underneath the vehicle. A little reconnaissance on foot is therefore considerably cheaper than a visit to a Namibian workshop.

Inspect the route
crossing small drainage channel
Namibia 2026

We thoroughly enjoy the challenge.

Nothing is particularly technical, but the combination of rocks, erosion, some steeper sections and a narrow track makes the driving sufficiently demanding to keep us very much awake.

Another little adventure.

After a long and occasionally bumpy drive, we eventually reach Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint, the end of the track.

The actual view directly into the canyon is somewhat underwhelming compared with what we had hoped for. There is, however, a beautiful panorama across the surrounding plains, and the skies above us are filled with large birds of prey circling on the thermals.

We decide to backtrack about 500 metres to a cairn we noticed earlier. From here, a short walk leads towards the canyon edge, where we are rewarded with a magnificent view of one of the Fish River's sweeping bends far below.

Wife near cairn
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

This is much more like it.

Magnificent view  to one of
Fish River's sweeping bends far below
Namibia 2026

After a cold drink and a well-earned break, we start the return journey. It goes considerably faster now that we know the track – although we still take the rocks and eroded sections seriously.

Grand View – and a little peace and quiet

On the way back, we stop at the official Grand Viewpoint.

And it really is grand.

There are tables and benches, and the view across the Fish River Canyon is spectacular. There is, however, one obvious disadvantage compared with our little 4x4 adventure: we are no longer alone.

There are plenty of other visitors, and a large bus just left.

For that reason, we can highly recommend taking the track along the canyon rim towards Eagle’s Rock Viewpoint if you have a suitable vehicle and some basic 4x4 experience.

Peace and rest, 4x4 trail
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

During the 2–3 hours we spend on the route, we encounter only two other vehicles.

The route is not technically difficult, but it does require a proper 4x4 with good ground clearance and a driver who is comfortable choosing the right line over rocks, erosion and uneven terrain. A little patience and willingness to get out and inspect the difficult sections also helps rather than just try.

For us, it was another great way of experiencing the Fish River Canyon – not just looking at it, but getting there as part of the adventure.

Tomorrow, we leave the canyon behind and head for the Orange River.

And this time, we are swapping four wheels for a canoe.

Adventure continues.

Canyon Lodge – The Good, the Bad and the Overpriced

Canyon Lodge - nice location but...
Namibia 2026 

Canyon Lodge turned out to be a case of the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced. The setting was fantastic, our chalet was perfect, and the pool was almost impossible to fault, with magnificent views across Gondwana Nature Park towards the Fish River Canyon.

Unfortunately, all these wonderful elements were almost completely overshadowed by an invasion of three large groups — two of around ten people each and one of more than twenty people from the other side of the world.

And it started so well

Lodge in front of reception
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

We were warmly greeted by a very enthusiastic guide — and, as it turned out, salesman — who showed us to reception. He told us that he would later explain all the activities and excursions available at the lodge. We never saw him again. Perhaps we had already been sold.

At reception, we were met by a very friendly hostess who completed the usual check-in formalities before assigning us Family Chalet 21. She then showed us around the lodge, including the shop, restaurant and terrace, and arranged for our luggage to be delivered to the chalet.

Family Chalet 21, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

We opened the door to Chalet 21 and were immediately impressed. The chalet is beautifully integrated into the rocky landscape, with a huge pile of boulders rising behind it, seemingly balanced on top of one another. It reminded us a little of the Erongo Mountains [link].

The living room, bedroom and bathroom are built directly among the rocks, with large rock formations incorporated throughout the chalet. Immediately to the right as you enter is a bedroom with a double bed, separated from the second double bed by a roughly 3 x 3 metre boulder. There is a wardrobe, a small table with glasses, a coffee and tea station, a safe and everything else you could reasonably want. Everything was in immaculate condition. Nothing was missing.

The bathroom feels almost like a cave
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

The bathroom is reached by walking down into what feels almost like a cave. There, you are greeted by a large and inviting bathtub. The whole thing is wonderfully cosy — and quite spectacular.

Pool area, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Once we had settled in, we also headed for the pool area, located a few hundred metres from the chalets. Sun loungers are spread across several levels of rocky terraces, overlooking a beautiful, almost infinity-style pool. Beyond it are magnificent views across the surrounding plains and mountains.

Blogger by pool area
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

There was even Wi-Fi.

It just never worked.

The restaurant

Terrasse outside restautant
Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Our first dinner was a buffet in the restaurant. It was OK, but rather heavy on the meat-and-gravy side of things. The green element consisted mainly of various canned vegetables poured into bowls, which did not exactly scream culinary ambition.

Before the buffet, we were offered a choice of two starters. On both evenings we ate at the restaurant, both were distinctly underwhelming.

We were also given some warm bread when we sat down. Calling it a piece of bread would perhaps be generous — it was more or less bonsai-sized. An odd place to save money.

The staff were friendly and clearly doing their best. They were, however, fighting an uphill battle.

Night sky, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

The second evening, things went completely off the rails.

First, we received a piece of warm bread approximately the size of a walnut, followed by a choice of two small starters. Neither was significantly larger than the bread.

Looking around the restaurant, we noticed that tables had been set for three groups: two of around ten people each and another table with more than twenty places.

The restaurant is not particularly large, and this looked like a completely hopeless project.

The first group of around ten was already sitting peacefully enjoying their dinner. Then the very large group of more than twenty arrived from the other side of the world and descended upon the relatively small restaurant.

Their guide immediately started rushing around, giving instructions to both the staff and their group members, while the latter made a beeline for the buffet — straight for the meat, naturally.

There was no sitting down first, no settling in, and apparently very little consideration for the other guests.

We were perhaps five couples sitting quietly and trying to enjoy our dinner. From that point onwards, it was obvious that nobody was enjoying the experience anymore.

We left before dessert, after pointing out that the situation was simply unacceptable. This was met with a somewhat bewildered smile and a shrug of the shoulders.

And just as we walked out the door, the other group of ten arrived.

Good luck.

Family chalet 21, good thing about Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

This was now the second time on this trip that we had experienced an invasion of large groups at a Gondwana Lodge. The previous occasion was at The Desert Grace, where there was at least considerably more space, and where the much higher quality of the food and facilities helped to compensate (link).

Canyon Lodge simply does not have a restaurant large enough to accommodate groups of this size without seriously affecting the experience of everyone else.

Quite frankly, it is not acceptable for guests to book a year in advance and pay around NAD 8,000 per night  (430 EUR) for bed and breakfast, only to find themselves in an overcrowded and chaotic environment like this.

There is a very obvious mismatch between the price and what you actually get.

We will certainly not be returning to Canyon Lodge. And in the future, we will think twice about staying at Gondwana-branded lodges, or indeed at other properties that actively cater to large organised groups. We would much rather choose smaller, more intimate places where the experience of the individual guest actually seems to matter. An good alternative is Fish River Lodge on the other side of the Fish River Canyon , see link to our recent visit (link)

Perhaps it is the location?

Fish River Canyon, main viewpoint
20 km from Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Maybe this is simply what happens when you are in a spectacular location.

If you eat in Nyhavn in Copenhagen, one of Denmark's most popular tourist spots, you can be fairly certain that you will pay a high price. What you cannot be equally certain of is getting high quality in return.

Perhaps the same applies here. If you are staying right next to the Fish River Canyon or close to Sossusvlei, perhaps the location itself becomes part of the price tag.

But surely that does not have to mean that the rest of the experience is allowed to deteriorate.

Map at Canyon Lodge of
Fish River Canyon tracks
Namibia 2026

And there was one final annoyance.

At breakfast, the buffet was routinely being stripped by the groups before we arrived, and it was not properly replenished afterwards. What was left for the remaining guests were essentially the poor leftovers.

Even some of the cheapest hotels we have stayed at elsewhere manage to keep a breakfast buffet replenished.

So, yes — Canyon Lodge is a spectacular place. The setting is extraordinary, our chalet was wonderful, and the pool is fantastic.

But a beautiful location and a great chalet do not, by themselves, make a great lodge.

For us, Canyon Lodge was ultimately the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced.

//Garas 4x4 Self-Drive – An Adventure Through Gondwana Canyon Park

 

//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

Setting Out from Canyon Lodge

The day after arriving at Canyon Lodge, we decide to try the //Garas Self-Drive, a marked route of approximately 40 km through Gondwana Canyon Park, which takes around 2–3 hours to complete.

This is not described as a particularly difficult 4x4 route, but rather as a great way to experience the private conservation area independently. The route follows marked tracks through the park and connects Canyon Lodge with Canyon Roadhouse.

A4 trail map //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

At reception at Canyon Lodge, we are given a simple A4 trail map. The route is not marked on our ever-present companion, Tracks4Africa, but at least the app always shows us where Canyon Lodge is located – just in case we somehow get lost!

We set off, with my wife behind the wheel.

wife behind the wheel
Namibia 2026

A Gentle 4x4 Challenge

We are both relatively experienced 4x4 drivers, but it quickly becomes clear that the route is not technically difficult. The terrain is uneven, with plenty of rocks and, in a few places, somewhat steeper rocky sections where a dry riverbed or small tributary crosses the track.

Still, the challenges are no greater than what any reasonably capable 4x4 vehicle should be able to handle.

On the way, //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The route takes us through the characteristic rocky landscape of Gondwana Canyon Park, with its koppies, granite formations, euphorbias and quiver trees.

Grasshoppers and Other Small Creatures

We don't encounter much large wildlife – apart from a single giraffe early in the drive and occasional springbok. But the smaller inhabitants of the park are everywhere.

Large grasshoppers suddenly leap from the vegetation as we pass, while dragonfly-like insects seem to be constantly on the move around us.

At one point, a very large grasshopper suddenly flies through the open side window and lands inside the car.

Very large grasshoppers everywhere
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

For a few seconds, there is mild panic!

Perhaps partly because we are surprised – but also because these Namibian grasshoppers are considerably larger than the ones we are used to in Denmark!

As soon as we establish that it is just a grasshopper – and not some kind of flying scorpion ;-) – calm returns to the vehicle.

And we have a good laugh.

When you are driving alone through unfamiliar terrain, you are perhaps slightly more alert than usual. Every unexpected movement or strange sound gets your attention.

We are, as we like to call it, on an adventure.

From Rocky Terrain to Open Sand

halfway along the trail, landscape
becomes more open and sandy.
Namibia 2026

The first half of the route is quite rocky, but after Dassies Poort, approximately halfway along the trail, the landscape changes. The terrain becomes more open and sandy, and the driving becomes easier.

Along the way, we pass two Wild Camps.

The first one in particular catches my attention. It looks like the perfect place to spend a night with a rooftop tent. Imagine climbing onto the roof of the vehicle in the evening and simply enjoying the solitude, the silence and the spectacular views surrounding you.

I suspect that overnight stays may be possible with permission from the lodge or Gondwana. Definitely something worth investigating another time.

A Different Side of Gondwana Canyon Park

Namaqua sandgrouse
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The //Garas Self-Drive has turned out to be a lovely way to experience a different side of Gondwana Canyon Park.

It has not been a technical 4x4 challenge, but that was never really the point. The pleasure lies in being out there on our own, slowly exploring the landscape and never quite knowing what we might encounter around the next bend.

A wonderful day.

Now it is time to relax at the lodge.

Tomorrow, we will finally explore the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

From the Kalahari to the Fish River Canyon – The Long Way South

 

We leave Outpost Safari Lodge early
We have a long drive to Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Today we leave Outpost Safari Lodge near Unions End and embark on a very long drive all the way to Canyon Lodge, near the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon and the Hobas entrance gate.

For some time, I have wanted to explore more of the small back roads in this remote part of Namibia. On a previous journey, we had a fantastic drive along the little D1033, the “Olifants River Road” (link D1033 trip).

This time, we decide to take one of the most easterly routes possible through this part of Namibia. We follow the D1022, then the D1119 and D511, before eventually turning southeast onto the somewhat larger C17 towards the small town of Koes and onwards to Keetmanshoop.

It turns out to be a perfect plan.

Start of D1022, runs lengthwise
 between the dunes most of time
Namibia 2026

Almost nobody on the road

D1022, we meet only three other vehicles!
Freshly graded track
Namibia 2026

During the first three hours, we encounter just three other vehicles!

We initially head south on the D1022, which turns out to have been freshly graded and is in absolutely perfect condition.

And here I was, expecting loose sand and a potentially challenging 4WD drive!

Instead, the road runs lengthwise between the dunes, and only occasionally do we cross from one dune ridge to another. This creates long, straight stretches interrupted by short but beautiful climbs over the dune crests.

Road D1119, distance between
the dune ridges shorter, red sand.
Namibia 2026

When we reach the D1119, we start heading more towards the west. The distance between the dune ridges becomes shorter, and the character of the drive changes.

It gradually develops into something resembling a roller coaster ride over the now quite high dunes – still, however, on beautifully graded gravel.

The dunes have also changed character. They are becoming increasingly red, with the characteristic colours of the Kalahari becoming more pronounced.

Blogger break D1119
Namibia 2026

But this year there is something else.

Flowers.

And more and more of them.

The further south we travel, the more flowers we see scattered across the desert. In places, the normally dry landscape is surprisingly colourful.

The desert is still blooming.

How incredibly lucky we are to be here at exactly the right time.

Giants and quiver trees

 Near Quiver Tree Forest
Namibia 2026

After passing the small town of Koes, we eventually approach Keetmanshoop.

Along the way, we pass two of southern Namibia's most unusual natural attractions: Giants' Playground and the Quiver Tree Forest.

Giants' Playground is a remarkable landscape of enormous dolerite boulders, piled and balanced in seemingly impossible formations. The rocks look almost as if some enormous hand has stacked them on top of each other – hence the name. The formations are entirely natural, created through geological processes and prolonged weathering and erosion.

Just a few kilometres away lies the famous Quiver Tree Forest, a natural concentration of Aloidendron dichotomum, commonly known as quiver trees or kokerboom. The trees are actually giant succulents rather than true trees, and some of the specimens are several centuries old. The San traditionally hollowed out the branches to make quivers for their arrows, which explains the English name.

We visited both places back in 2009, when our children were just nine and ten years old.

We still have vivid memories of the strange rock formations and, in particular, the many spectacular quiver trees.

But we still have a very long drive ahead of us today, so we decide not to stop for a proper visit this time.

Instead, we simply admire the landscape from the road and pull over briefly on the roadside.

Sometimes it is enough just to see an old familiar landscape again.

Heading into the south

When we reach Keetmanshoop, we decide not to drive into the town itself, as we did some weeks earlier with my brother and sister-in-law on the way to Klein-Aus Vista (link).

Instead, we continue directly towards the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

Turning south onto the C12
Namibia 2026

In far distance,
we begin to see mountain ranges
Namibia 2026

After turning south onto the C12, the landscape changes once again.

The open desert seems to stretch endlessly in every direction.

There are even more flowers now, and in the far distance we begin to see mountain ranges.

At first, they are barely visible on the horizon.

But as we continue south, they become more distinct, rising gradually above the enormous plains.

Flowers and mountains more distinct
Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

We cross below Naute Dam
Namibia 2026

The landscape is becoming increasingly dramatic.

We eventually turn onto the C37 for the final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park.

Final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

The views become more and more spectacular.

Gondwana Canyon Park is an enormous private conservation area covering approximately 1,160 km², or 116,000 hectares – about 27% of the area of Denmark – surrounding the Fish River Canyon. The area has been developed around the idea of combining conservation, landscape restoration and tourism, and wildlife such as plains zebra, wildebeest, red hartebeest and giraffe has been reintroduced.

It is a fitting landscape for the next chapter of our journey.

Finally – Canyon Lodge

Canyon Lodge front
Namibia 2026

And finally, we arrive at our destination.

Canyon Lodge.

The lodge lies among enormous granite boulders within Gondwana Canyon Park, approximately 20 kilometres east of the Fish River Canyon. The stone chalets are scattered between the rocks, and the setting is spectacularly remote.

We are going to stay here for three nights.

We have visited the Fish River Canyon twice before – in 2022 (link) and a few weeks ago with my brother and sister-in-law (link) – but both times from the western side.

This time, we are going to explore it from the eastern side, around Hobas.

After the long drive from the Kalahari, it feels good to finally arrive.

The car has done another very long day, but the journey itself has been an experience.

And tomorrow, we will finally get to see what the Fish River Canyon looks like from this side.

We are very much looking forward to the next few days.

Outpost Safari Lodge – Four Days of Peace, Luxury and Adventure in the Kalahari

 

Breakfast outside on the large terrace
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

We are thoroughly enjoying our days at Outpost Safari Lodge. What a fabulous place!

On our second morning, Elize and her team have set up breakfast outside on the large terrace, with an uninterrupted view across the Kalahari. To make sure we do not freeze in the cool morning air, they have also lit a fire in the small fireplace.

We enjoy yet another wonderful breakfast, taking in the peace and quiet, the extraordinary view and the beautiful terrace perched on top of the dune. It is difficult to imagine a better place to start the day.

Breakfast outside on the terrace
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

A little self-drive adventure

Later in the morning, we decide to take the car for a short drive, partly to recharge the vehicle's battery and, not least, the battery of our fridge. I mention to our host that I am thinking of driving to the main gate and back again. By now, we know the area a little better.

This would also give us the opportunity to have a closer look at Dune House, which seems like a perfect option if you are travelling to Outpost Safari Lodge as a larger group. We have already seen the two bungalows attached to the main house, and it would be an obvious place to bring friends or family for three to five days.

Elize suggests that, instead of simply driving to the gate and back, we could make a little circular tour. What a great idea!

We can drive out through the main gate and then enter through another gate into the southern part of the reserve, about three kilometres farther south. From there, we can drive north through the area and stop at the hunting tower for a cold drink. Elize naturally offers to send us off with a cooler bag containing the drinks.

It sounds like a wonderful little adventure: driving around on our own in a large private game reserve.

Not that we had exactly covered ourselves in glory when it came to finding our way around the reserve the previous day, but we had eventually made it back!

This time, fortunately, we find the main gate without any problems. We even locate the second gate, despite several rather emphatic signs warning “NO ENTRY”.

Fortunately, we are among the invited guests!

We follow our position on the satellite imagery in Google Maps and try to locate the pan where we remember the hunting tower from the previous morning's game drive. A pan is a relatively large, flat, low-lying open area in the landscape.

We end up slightly too far south, but decide not to leave the little track through the desert. After all, we know roughly where the main house is on the map, so we should eventually be able to find our way back.

Another hunting tower
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Suddenly, we spot another hunting tower. We get out and take a short break, enjoying the view from the top. Before climbing the tower, however, we carefully scan the surrounding ground for snakes. We are, after all, walking around in the Kalahari!

From the tower, we can see another track farther north, heading in roughly the right compass direction towards the pan and the main house. We decide to follow it.

View from hunting tower and our car
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

And, sure enough, it takes us to the familiar hunting tower we visited the previous morning.

It is quite enchanting to explore this huge private reserve on our own.

We probably should have fitted the supplied mesh screen in front of the vehicle's air intake, though. The grass is quite high, and seeds and other vegetation can potentially block the radiator airflow. I keep a very close eye on the temperature gauge.

It does not move.

So all is well!

An afternoon of complete relaxation

Afternoon at the plunge pool
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

We make it safely back to the main house and spend the afternoon at the plunge pool, basking in the sunshine, applying generous amounts of sunscreen and reading our books.

Every now and then, we are interrupted by a friendly enquiry from Elize:

“Is there anything you need?”

Perhaps a glass of white wine on ice in the champagne cooler?

What a life!

Fireplace Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Later in the afternoon, Tomaz and his assistant pick us up for a game drive. He takes us towards the southern part of the reserve, where we see Outpost Safari's airstrip – very convenient if you arrive by private aircraft.

It reminds us of our stay at Wolwedans Dune Lodge, where around half of the guests arrived by air. [link]

Near Outpost Safari's airstrip
Namibia 2026

We continue towards the southern end of the reserve and also visit the site of the original Union's End – the place where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet. Tomaz explains that the actual meeting point has subsequently been moved slightly farther southeast.

Wife & assistant, original Unions End
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

We do not see quite as many animals this afternoon, but that really does not matter.

There is something wonderfully relaxing about sitting together for two or three hours, slowly driving through the landscape and simply scanning the bush, while a warm afternoon desert breeze blows through the open vehicle.

Sometimes the landscape itself is the attraction.

Sunset, springbok carpaccio and a very attentive chef

Sunset on the terrace around the fire
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Springbok carpaccio
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

We enjoy sunset on the terrace around the fire.

Elize has prepared an absolutely fabulous starter: springbok carpaccio.

We enjoy it with a glass of red wine while taking photographs of the spectacular sunset. At some distance, we are joined by a western barn owl, sitting quietly and watching us from afar.

western barn owl watching us
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

As darkness gradually takes over, we move inside for another wonderful dinner.

Tonight's main course is homemade stuffed chicken roulade.

Stuffed chicken roulade
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Elize has also asked about our favourite desserts. My wife therefore gets crème brûlée one evening, while tonight Elize has experimented with coconut panna cotta after I mentioned that I am rather fond of coconut.

Coconut panna cotta
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

What thoughtfulness – and what an extraordinary level of culinary enthusiasm!

The coconut dessert may not become a future signature dish, but that is hardly the point. The sheer willingness to experiment and create something especially for us is wonderful.

As we head to bed, Elize tells us that breakfast the following morning will be a surprise.

We simply have to be ready at 8:45.

And we should wear shoes suitable for sand.

“I won't tell you anything else. It has to be a surprise.”

Intriguing!

We have absolutely no idea what is waiting for us.

Breakfast in the bush

Breakfast in Nama Camp
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

The following morning, Tomaz picks us up and drives us out into the bush to a place called Nama Camp.

It is a kind of small traditional kraal, surrounded by sheets of corrugated metal decorated with old rusty cars. Apparently, fires can be lit inside some of the vehicles in the evening, creating quite a spectacular effect.

This morning, however, the camp has been transformed into a very special outdoor breakfast venue.

Elize and her two assistants – together with her daughter, who is helping out – have lit a fire and prepared our breakfast over the flames.

Eggs on fire pan
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

In the centre of the enclosure, a table for two has been beautifully set with a white tablecloth.

We are given the place of honour.

Freshly baked rolls are served straight from the fire. They remind us of freshly baked Danish snobrød – bread cooked on a stick over an open fire.

Eggs and bacon are also cooked over the flames on a large fire pan and brought to our table.

And, of course, there is delicious biltong on the table – air-dried meat that we have gradually become very fond of during our travels in southern Africa.

We feel rather like "Jeppe på Bjerget in the Baron's bed" (Danish story) – suddenly finding ourselves treated like royalty!

It is another wonderfully memorable experience.

Freshly baked rolls straight from the fire
Remind us of Danish snobrød
Outpost Safari Lodge, Namibia 2026

A surprise encounter with sable antelope

The afternoon is once again devoted to relaxation by the plunge pool, accompanied by our books and the now familiar question of whether we need anything.

Honestly, I simply cannot think of anything we could possibly need.

This is such a wonderful way to completely disconnect from everyday life.

Suddenly, Elize comes running towards us.

“Tomaz has just seen a herd of sable antelope near the shed. Hurry and drive down there if you want to see them!”

Elize knows that we would very much like to see sable antelope again. They are such impressive animals.

By now, we know the reserve well enough to drive straight along the familiar track to the shed.

And there they are.

Herd of sable antelope
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

An impressive herd of sable antelope stands in the afternoon sunlight, their magnificent curved horns clearly visible. There are even several young calves among them.

Sable antelope are among Africa's most striking antelopes. They are large, powerful animals, easily recognised by their dark coats, white facial markings and impressive, backward-curving horns. The calves are born reddish-brown and gradually develop the characteristic dark adult colouring as they mature.

Watching the herd moving calmly through the golden Kalahari grass is a wonderful experience.

Sable antelope Outpost Safari Lodge
among Africa's most striking antelopes
Namibia 2026

Sundowner on the dunes

Sundowner, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

That evening, the staff have arranged another sundowner – this time on top of a nearby sand dune.

Tomaz picks us up and drives us through the bush in the soft light of the setting sun.

When we reach the top of the dune, we find – well, by now you have probably already guessed it – a beautifully prepared table for two.

White tablecloth.

Two wine glasses.

Chilled white wine.

And an ice bucket, just in case.

There is also a large platter filled with cheese, sausage, olives, crackers and vegetable sticks.

Sundowner, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

We enjoy the appetisers while watching one more of the most beautiful sunsets of the entire trip unfold across the bush and the red dunes.

And once again, the lovely staff seem to be enjoying themselves almost as much as we are.

Lovely staff, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

It is difficult not to feel incredibly privileged.

When we return to the lodge, another dinner is waiting for us.

Tonight's main course is delicious, slow-cooked pork, somewhat reminiscent of osso buco in its rich, tender texture, followed by cheesecake for dessert.

After four days of this, a fairly serious diet may be required when we get home!

Slow-cooked pork
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Saying goodbye to Outpost Safari Lodge

It is time to say goodbye after four extraordinary days!
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

And then, all too soon, it is time to say goodbye.

What an extraordinary four days we have had at Outpost Safari Lodge.

The combination of peace and solitude, superb food, extraordinary attention to detail, beautiful surroundings, wildlife and the simply breathtaking views makes this a very special place.

But perhaps what makes the stay particularly memorable is the people.

Elize and her team seem to have mastered the art of being attentive without ever being intrusive. They somehow manage to anticipate what you might want before you even realise that you want it. Whether it is breakfast around a fire in the bush, a cold drink at a hunting tower, wine at sunset or simply a quiet afternoon by the plunge pool, everything feels personal and carefully thought through.

View from terrasse
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

And then there is the landscape.

The enormous open spaces of the Kalahari, the dunes, the changing light, the silence and the wildlife create a sense of isolation that is becoming increasingly rare.

We can warmly recommend Outpost Safari Lodge to anyone looking to spoil themselves with several days of peace and complete privacy in the Kalahari.

It is also particularly well suited to a group of friends or family. We would absolutely love to return in this way.

The main house can accommodate around eight guests in four bedrooms, including two separate bungalows on stilts in the desert, just a short walk from the main house – provided, of course, that there isn't a lion paying a visit!

One of two separate bungalows on stilts
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

If you also rent the nearby Dune House, at least another eight guests can be accommodated.

This would make an ideal setting for a group of friends, a family gathering, a special celebration or even a company retreat.

If you are interested in hunting, this is also possible, or you can choose to rent the property outside the hunting season – or even take over the entire place exclusively.

It is certainly not inexpensive.

But in our opinion, Outpost Safari Lodge offers exceptionally good value for money for this level of privacy, service, food, surroundings and personal attention.

Four days of peace, adventure, excellent food, spectacular sunsets and wonderful people.

We leave with very fond memories – and with a strong feeling that we may well return one day.

Sunpavillion, Outpost Safari Lodge, sunset
Namibia 2026