Thursday, 13 August 2026

NamibRand – Desert Days, Oryx and a Windblown Sundowner

 
NamibRand Family Hideout
Milkey Way
Namibia 2026

Back to NamibRand

We arrive at “our” lovely farm, The NamibRand Family Hideout, remotely situated in south-western Namibia within the stunning NamibRand Nature Reserve, one of Southern Africa’s largest private nature reserves. We are looking forward to settling in and enjoying the spectacular views across the vast plains towards the ancient blue mountain ranges.

After unpacking and settling into the house (link), we decide to take a drive along the approximately 5-kilometre self-drive 4WD track. It is a beautiful and, from a driving perspective, not particularly difficult route through the surrounding landscape — a perfect introduction to the terrain before our much longer four-hour nature drive, which we have booked in advance.


Oryx suddenly appear,
standing with their calves
Namibia 2026


We have just passed the first sandy rise when two large oryx suddenly appear, standing with their calves in the shade of a tree only about 30 metres from us. We see oryx everywhere in this part of the reserve. They are remarkably well adapted to life in this extraordinarily dry environment and can survive with little or no access to drinking water, obtaining much of their water from the plants they eat and conserving water with highly efficient physiological adaptations. Their ability to cope with dehydration and heat is one of the reasons they can thrive in landscapes where surface water is virtually absent.

It is wonderful to be able to drive on our own through this landscape, although the restrictions on where we can go are entirely understandable. In a fragile desert ecosystem like this, even apparently insignificant vehicle tracks can leave a lasting footprint, and conservation naturally has to come first.


Sunset on the Dunes


Sunset on highest sand dune
Blogger, wife and family
Namibia 2026


As sunset approaches, we decide to experience it from the highest sand dune we spotted during our earlier drive. We pack our chairs and the essential G&Ts and set off.

Climbing a steep sand dune is hard work — two steps forward and one step back! The sunset wind is already blowing quite strongly, whipping sand across the ridge, while the colours of the landscape gradually become warmer and more intensely reddish. At the same time, the lowering sun throws increasingly long shadows across the dunes and plains.

We are now close to Venus Campsite, where we stayed with good friends two years ago (link). It is one of those places where previous journeys suddenly become part of the present one.


Sun disappears behind the mountain range
Namibia 2026


There are plenty of photographs taken from the top of the dune, but eventually the sun disappears behind the mountain range — the same range where we once slept on camp beds out in the desert, while spotted hyenas visited our camp during the night on Tok Tokkie Trails (link).


Heading back for the fire
Namibia 2026


It is striking how rapidly the temperature drops in the desert the moment the sun disappears. Within minutes, we are very happy to head back to the house, the fire and our grilled lamb chops — bought during our rather unsuccessful shopping expedition to Lüderitz (link).

We are, however, suffering in the most luxurious possible way. Somehow, we even managed to acquire some fresh salad from the greenhouse near the reception where we checked in.


Evening with wife, brother and sister-in-law
NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026


It is a magical evening in the company of my brother and sister-in-law. Once complete darkness has descended, but before the full moon rises, we sit outside and admire the spectacular Milky Way stretching across the sky above us (see first picture). NamibRand is particularly renowned for its exceptionally dark skies, making the desert at night almost as impressive as it is by day.

We spend a wonderfully peaceful evening in the spacious house before getting ready for our four-hour nature drive the following morning, departing at 7:30.


A Very Cold Morning


Clouds and cold morning
NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026


And then we discover something quite unusual for early August: clouds!

Winter in this part of Namibia is normally characterised by dry, clear skies, warm sunshine during the day and very cold nights. Rainfall is highly erratic, and the period from roughly May through August is generally the dry season. Temperatures can fall dramatically after sunset, with frost and even sub-zero temperatures possible in the NamibRand area.

This morning is therefore a bit of an exception. It is overcast, cold and surprisingly windy.

We quickly realise, after only a few hundred metres in the open vehicle, that we have become thoroughly acclimatised to the warmth of the preceding days — and have dressed far too lightly. We are absolutely freezing as we head out into the reserve, exposed to the wind chill created by the moving vehicle.

A blanket, as provided on many other nature drives, would have been very welcome!


Sunrise cold morning
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026


Fortunately, we almost forget the cold when the sun begins to rise over the desert. The first rays illuminate a distant line of dunes, creating an extraordinary landscape of muted colours. We stop on a high dune, where we have a magnificent panorama over the surrounding wilderness.

The colours are almost surreal to our eyes: every conceivable shade of khaki, grey, sand and blue-green, changing subtly as the sun climbs higher.


Colours are almost surreal, NamibRand
Namibia 2026


Then comes the adventurous part.

Our Land Cruiser heads diagonally down a very steep sandy slope. We instinctively use arms and legs to brace ourselves, trying to prevent all four passengers from ending up on the same side of the vehicle. Fortunately, our driver clearly has complete confidence in what the Land Cruiser can do.

We are less convinced.

For a moment, it feels as though the whole vehicle might simply tip over sideways.

It doesn't.


Just before very steep sandy slope
Not possible to see on picture
Namibia 2026


Into the Unknown

From here, we continue towards the most remote south-western parts of the reserve, on a route that takes us considerably farther into NamibRand than we have ever been before. I keep trying to follow our route on my otherwise completely reliable Tracks4Africa map — but the tracks we are driving simply aren't there.


Into the unknown
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026


Desert blooming
NamibRand 4 hours nature drive
Namibia 2026


That is quite something!

The afternoon is spent relaxing — and, not least, warming up — after our exceptionally cold morning and long drive.

Late in the afternoon, another adventure awaits.


The Deception Hill Climb

We are going to climb the nearby rocky hill known as Deception Hill on what is called the “Koppie Climb”. The excursion includes transport and a guide and promises a magnificent sundowner viewpoint.

Before booking it, I had tried to establish exactly which mountain was involved and whether the climb would be suitable for our family group of four. I remember all too clearly the extremely demanding climb I once undertook alone, accompanied by two guides, to the summit of the area's highest mountain, Mount Loosberg. That expedition was wild — and at times came close to being downright irresponsible! You can read about that adventure here (link).

This little expedition, fortunately, turns out to be considerably less demanding, although there are still a few steeper´ish sections.


Leaving Land Cruiser at nearby hill
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026


We drive to the nearby hill and leave the Land Cruiser at its foot. From there we follow an old livestock fence upwards over the rocky terrain, enjoying the increasingly beautiful evening light across the desert.

We are also very careful about where we put our feet. The warm rocks and sandy path are exactly the sort of places where snakes and scorpions may enjoy an afternoon sunbath.


On the way to first top
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026


Eventually, slightly out of breath, we reach the top of the rocky hill.

And now we understand why it is called Deception Hill.

Because we are not actually there yet.


Not there yet!
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026


A Sundowner Above the Namib

From the top of the first hill we discover that the route continues down into a saddle — and then upwards again onto a second, higher hill that had been completely hidden from view.

Not everyone in the group is equally enthusiastic about this revelation ;-)


Looking back from sand dune to rock top
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026


And the second summit is different again. Instead of the rocky terrain we have just climbed, it is a steep sand dune.

But naturally, we take on the challenge.

And we are rewarded spectacularly.

As the sun begins to disappear, the desert is transformed into an extraordinary palette of reds, oranges and deep shadows. The wind is blowing hard across the dune, sending fine red sand swirling around our legs and faces.

Getting a G&T poured and safely delivered to the top of the dune is itself becoming something of a luxury expedition in the blowing sand.

But naturally, we manage.

It is a long-standing sundowner tradition in the Namibian desert — and what could be more appropriate than celebrating it with the local Desolate Gin No. 7?

We stand on top of the dune, glasses in hand, watching the last light disappear across one of the most spectacular landscapes on Earth.


On the top!!
Deception Hill Climb
Namibia 2026


Another extraordinary day in the Namib.

Tomorrow, the next stage of our journey awaits — and with it, new adventures.

We feel very, very privileged.

Wednesday, 12 August 2026

From famous D707 road to our own little corner of the Namib Desert

 

Sundowner NamibRand Nature Reserve
Family on top of dune
Namibia 2026

Road C13 through Neisipvlakte Plains
Before turn of D707


Start of legendary D707 road
Namibia 2026


Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. The route runs between the red and ochre desert plains and the dramatic Tiras Mountains, with endless horizons and constantly changing colours. It is one of those roads where the journey really is as important as the destination.

We are actually rather surprised by the condition of the road. It appears almost freshly graded, with hardly any corrugation – a very pleasant change after some of the rougher gravel roads we have encountered.

Another thing that strikes us, as it has throughout this part of Namibia, is the complete absence of rubbish. There is simply nothing along the roadside except pristine desert stretching towards the horizon. The land is divided by numerous fences marking different farms and nature reserves, and we see everything from goats to small herds of oryx and several ostriches.


Driving along D707
Namibia 2026


We make a short stop at the entrence to Namtib Biosphere Reserve, where we stayed at Little Hunters Rest campsite with our children in 2009. It brings back wonderful memories. Back then we were travelling on a much more economical budget, in a 2WD with our own tent brought from Denmark, sleeping mats, sleeping bags and a Trangia stove. Considerably more primitive than today's setup – but somehow every bit as cosy, and certainly no less spectacular.


Blogger taking a break near Namtip
D707, Namibia 2026


Betta – the last stop before the desert

Eventually we reach the last place where we can refuel and stock up before heading into increasingly remote country: the tiny settlement of Betta.

We remember Betta from our previous visits, but it has clearly had something of a makeover. The little roadside establishment now has a fuel station, a well-stocked shop, restaurant and accommodation. It is all neat and clean, and makes an excellent stop on this otherwise very remote stretch of road. The facility has indeed developed over the years from a simple fuel station into a more comprehensive traveller's stop.


Well-stocked shop in Betta
and nice restaurant
Namibia 2026


We enjoy freshly made hot sandwiches with tomato, ham and cheese while sitting upstairs looking out over the desert. I add a strawberry milkshake to wash down the dust.

It is quite a civilized lunch stop in the middle of nowhere.

From here, there is little more than 60 kilometres to our destination.


Back to NamibRand


Blogger and brother 
Reducing tyre pressure at enterence
NamibRand, Namibia 2026


Enterence NamibRand Nature Reserve
Namibia 2026


Our destination is the NamibRand Nature Reserve, which has been one of the highlights of several previous journeys through Namibia.

The final 60 kilometres pass quickly, and soon we arrive at the entrance gate and the beginning of the roughly 10-kilometre access track to the NamibRand Family Hideout.

Before continuing, we stop to reduce the tyre pressure. We lower the tyres from 1.8 bar, which is suitable for the gravel roads, to around 1.3 bar. The lower pressure gives considerably better flotation and traction once we encounter loose sand.

And now the feeling changes completely.

We are heading into the desert.


NamibRand Nature Reserve


Sunset NamibRand Nature Reserve
"Sandboarding Dune"
Namibia 2026


NamibRand was established in 1984 as a private conservation initiative and today covers more than 215,000 hectares – approximately 2,150 km². That is about 5% of the area of Denmark (Denmark is approximately 43,000 km²). The reserve borders the Namib-Naukluft National Park to the west and forms part of the larger conservation landscape surrounding the Namib Desert.

The neighbouring Namib-Naukluft National Park is enormous by European standards, covering 49,768 km² and making it Namibia's largest national park. It encompasses an extraordinary variety of landscapes, including the great dune fields around Sossusvlei, gravel plains, mountains and ephemeral rivers.

NamibRand itself is a very different concept. It is a privately managed conservation area, established to protect the unique ecology and wildlife of the south-western Namib Desert. Its landscape encompasses sand dunes and sandy plains, gravel plains, mountains and inselbergs, creating an extraordinary mosaic of desert habitats.

One of the reserve's most remarkable achievements is perhaps something you cannot see during the day at all.


Our house, NamiobRand Family Hideout
And Milkey Way!
Namibia 2026


NamibRand was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2012 and has Gold Tier status – the highest level of recognition from the International Dark-Sky Association. It was the first such reserve in Africa and one of the first in the Global South. The reserve has deliberately limited artificial lighting and introduced strict guidelines to preserve the extraordinary darkness of the night sky.

That makes this one of the world's exceptional places for stargazing.

And fortunately, we have three nights here.


Our own farmhouse in the desert


NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout terrasse
Making plans
Namibia 2026


For the next three nights we have rented the wonderfully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in almost complete isolation in the middle of this immense landscape.

There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light.

Just silence, space and desert.

Check-in goes completely smoothly. Fortunately, they are expecting us – despite the fact that we booked the house almost a year ago. And that is probably worth knowing: you need to be quick if you want to book this place.

When we finally reach the farmhouse, we immediately understand why.

The location is extraordinary.

We have the entire place to ourselves, with three bedrooms, three toilets and two bathrooms, all surrounded by the NamibRand wilderness. There is a cosy dining room and living room with a wood-burning stove, while covered verandas on two sides of the house provide uninterrupted views towards the desert and mountains.

A lone ostrich is wandering around a couple of hundred metres from the house, occasionally stopping to look in our direction.

Perhaps it has just had a drink from the waterhole directly in front of the farmhouse.


Rustic – in the best possible way


NamibRand Family Hideout
Indoor dining table
Namibia 2006


NamibRand Family Hideout kitchen
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026


This is self-catering in the truest sense. You have to bring all your own food and drinks – something we have already learned the hard way in the previous blog post!

Fortunately, the house has everything we need: refrigerator, freezer and gas stove. Electricity comes from solar panels and is sufficient for lights and charging smaller electronic devices.

Outside, there is a partly fenced little “garden” – although garden is perhaps a generous word. It consists mostly of sand. But there is a proper fire and barbecue area, complete with everything needed for an evening around the fire.

Inside, there is plenty of crockery, glasses, cutlery, pots and pans. In other words, nothing essential is missing.


NamibRand Family Hideout
Living room
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Bathrooms / restrooms
Namibia 2026


The house is rustic, however, and that is an important part of its charm.

Do not expect a newly renovated Airbnb with designer furniture and perfectly fitting doors. Instead, expect an original farmhouse in the middle of the desert, far from everything, with the basic facilities you need to live comfortably for a few days.

The doors are crooked and stick slightly. The original windows have peeling paint. Everything shows its age.

But then there is the wood-burning stove.

It is new, and will undoubtedly become the centre of the house on the cold desert evenings.

We have booked the house with beds made up and towels provided, and everything is clean and ready for us.

Exactly as we hoped.


Three days of desert ahead

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife. We also hope to explore some of the property's 4WD tracks and, if conditions allow, perhaps climb one of the nearby mountains for panoramic views across the reserve.

This is actually our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

We have experienced it in very different ways over the years: camping with best friends at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (link), walking the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (link), and enjoying the ultimate luxury experience at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality is combined with one of Namibia's most spectacular settings (link).

This time will be different again.

No lodge.

No guide unless we choose one.

No other guests.

Just the four of us, an old farmhouse, the Namib Desert and three nights of almost complete solitude.

We cannot wait to see what the next few days will bring.


Sundowner NamibRand
Namibia 2026

Tuesday, 11 August 2026

A Day Trip to Lüderitz, Diaz Point, and shopping disaster!


Diaz Point Lighthouse
Namibia 2026

We are heading out on a day trip to the historic coastal town of Lüderitz, passing once again the haunting ghost town of Kolmanskop, where drifting desert sand continues its slow and relentless work of reclaiming the abandoned diamond-mining settlement. We have visited Kolmanskop before in 2022, so if you are interested in our previous experience and pictures, you can read about it in an earlier blog post (link).

Our first destination today is Diaz Point, on the rugged peninsula just outside Lüderitz.

This is a place with a remarkable history. On 25 July 1488, the Portuguese navigator Bartolomeu Dias landed here during his voyage along the west coast of Africa and erected a padrão – a stone or wooden cross-like monument used by Portuguese explorers to mark their discoveries and claim the territory for Portugal. The original monument has long since disappeared, and the cross now standing at Diaz Point is a replica. Fragments of the original Diaz Cross were, however, discovered in the area in the 1950s.


110 km nearly straight asphalt road
Near Lüderitz just before sanddunes
Namibia 2026


The drive from Klein Aus Vista towards Lüderitz is an experience in itself. For almost 110 kilometres, the asphalt road runs in an almost perfectly straight line, with barely a bend to break the monotony. Our entertainment is therefore provided by the endless desert views and the occasional abandoned railway station building alongside the tracks. The railway is no longer in operation, and some of the old buildings are now slowly disappearing beneath the sand – noticeably more so than when we were here four years ago.

About 20 kilometres before Lüderitz, the scenery suddenly becomes more dynamic. Sand is blowing across the road, and a single heroic bulldozer is engaged in what looks very much like an eternal battle against the desert. It is difficult to imagine that anyone could ever permanently win that particular contest.


Single heroic bulldozer
Near Lüderitz batteling sanddunes


As we approach Lüderitz, we turn left onto the D701 towards the peninsula opposite the town. Almost immediately we begin seeing the first flamingos in the shallow lagoons.

The landscape is extraordinarily barren and rugged. In fact, it has an almost lunar appearance – and makes the supposedly lunar landscape around Sorthat on my native island of Bornholm look rather bonsai-like in comparison.

Before reaching the lighthouse and Diaz Point, we stop at Guano Bay, where we have a fine view towards Halifax Island. The bay and the surrounding coastline are part of an internationally important marine and bird area. The extremely productive waters off Lüderitz are influenced by the Benguela upwelling system, supporting large numbers of seabirds, while Halifax Island itself is an important breeding site.

There are beautiful seashells scattered everywhere across the otherwise harsh landscape, and more flamingos can be seen in the distance. It is a strange but beautiful combination: almost complete absence of vegetation, brilliant blue water, white shells and pink flamingos.


Guano Bay, near Diaz Point
Namibia 2026

Guano Bay, flamingos
Namibia 2026


Diaz Point

When we finally arrive at Diaz Point, we are pleasantly surprised. Considering how exposed and inhospitable the landscape is, the area is remarkably tidy and well maintained.

There is even a tiny café, Skip Skop, with extremely friendly service. Since we are planning a proper lunch later, we settle for some chips – served with garlic and tomato ketchup. An unusual but excellent combination! The coffee is surprisingly good too.


Café Skip Skop near Diaz Point
Namibia 2026


From the café it is only another 200 metres to the parking area beside the Diaz Cross. From here we walk across the rocks towards the steps leading up to the viewpoint and the replica cross.

The old wooden footbridge that once provided access has completely collapsed, so the approach is now somewhat more rugged. But perhaps that actually suits the place.


Way to Diaz Cross
Namibia 2026

 

Standing beside the cross, with the waves of the cold Atlantic crashing against the rocks below, it is easy to appreciate why this exposed headland must have made such an impression on the Portuguese explorers more than five centuries ago.

The combination of history, ocean and extreme desert landscape makes Diaz Point one of those places that is difficult to forget.


Information board Diaz Point
Namibia 2026


Lunch in Lüderitz

The drive back into Lüderitz is easy, and we stop for lunch at Essenzeit, overlooking the harbour and the old wooden bridge.

We order a wonderful seafood platter, with all sorts of fresh produce from the ocean. The price is remarkably reasonable, and sitting here looking out over the harbour while eating fresh seafood feels exactly right. In a fishing town like Lüderitz, you also have the comforting feeling that the ingredients have not travelled particularly far to reach your plate.


Bloggers seafood platter
Essenzeit, Lüderitz
Namibia 2026

 

The great Saturday shopping disaster

There is, however, another important reason for today's trip to Lüderitz.

We plan to stock up at the SPAR supermarket for the next three nights, which we will spend completely on our own at a farm in the NamibRand Nature Reserve in the Namib Desert. We need enough food and drinks to be self-sufficient.

Unfortunately, the author of this blog had overlooked one rather important detail:

On Saturdays, all the shops close at 14:00 and don't reopen until Monday morning, oops!


Suddenly, our carefully planned shopping expedition looks considerably less clever.

Good advice is expensive – and we are now in need of some.

Our solution is a combination of improvisation and mild desperation. We order some extra takeaway from Essenzeit – lamb chops curry – and buy tomatos and onions at street stall, soft drinks at the local petrol station. Everything goes straight into the car fridge.


Blogger at street stall in Lüderitz,
Namibia 2026


Back at Klein Aus Vista, we then empty the little local shop of whatever useful supplies remain. Finally, we raid the trust box in our cottage for additional provisions.

Somehow, against all odds, we end up reasonably well equipped for three nights in the Namib Desert.

It may not have been the shopping strategy we originally had in mind, but sometimes the best travel stories start with a mistake.

And tomorrow we leave the last shops behind and head deep into the NamibRand.

Hiking the Schutztruppe Trail – wild horses and a desert in bloom

 

Blogger on viewpoint
Schutztruppe Trail, Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026

One of the great attractions around Klein-Aus Vista, on the edge of Tsau Khaeb National Park (Sperrgebiet area), is the choice of hiking trails, ranging from relatively easy walks to more demanding mountain routes. There are also numerous mountain-bike trails winding through the rocky landscape. The trails are clearly marked with different-coloured arrows, and information reception is available at Klein Aus Vista which can provide maps and details of the individual routes.

We are given an overview of the various possibilities on arrival and decide on the yellow-marked Schutztruppe Trail.


Schutztruppe Trail
Namibia 2026


According to the Klein-Aus Vista guide, the trail is 10.8 km long, takes approximately three hours and is graded Easy to Intermediate. It is described as a particularly varied route through the Aus Mountains, combining spectacular scenery with the fascinating historical remains of the area.

The trail starts at the Klein-Aus Vista campsite – a place that brings back memories, as we stayed here with our children back in 2009. From the campsite, we climb towards one of the high viewpoints. The trail initially follows the same section as the Vista Trail, which climbs gradually before reaching a junction and then continues up to the viewpoint. The final 400-metre climb is rewarded with a magnificent panorama over the desert plains, with the vast horizon stretching seemingly forever. From here you can also look down towards the Stone Horse, the large land-art sculpture galloping across the desert floor.

It is the perfect place for our first little break.


Wife and family
Schutztruppe Trail viewpoint
Namibia 2026


We return along the trail to the junction before continuing on the yellow route. Soon we reach a gate and enter a landscape of enormous granite boulders and dry riverbeds. A particularly beautiful section takes us through an almost alley-like row of (Pappea capensis) trees, providing some welcome shade before the trail winds onwards through the rocky terrain.

Eventually the trail joins one of the old Schutztruppe support roads. These historic tracks once connected the German positions on the western side of the Aus Mountains with water and supplies further east. During the First World War, soldiers, horses and mules used these steep and winding routes to cross the mountains.

We pause in the shade of a huge boulder for a while, enjoying the extraordinary surroundings. It is one of those places where the scale of the landscape makes you feel very small indeed.

The route then continues upwards – considerably longer and somewhat steeper than we had expected – before eventually beginning the descent towards Geisterschlucht, or Ghost Valley.


The route then continues upwards
Schutztruppe Trail
Namibia 2026


The Hudson in Ghost Valley

At the bottom of the valley we come across one of the area's strangest historical relics: an old, completely rusted Hudson Terraplane car, its bodywork still peppered with bullet holes. The story is worthy of a desert legend. 



Rusted Hudson Terraplane car
bodywork peppered with bullet holes
Namibia 2026


According to the local tale, the 1934 Hudson Terraplane car belonged to two diamond smugglers who had stolen diamonds from the nearby Sperrgebiet. They were pursued by the police and eventually caught in Geisterschlucht, where a gunfight took place. Both smugglers were killed, but the diamonds were never recovered (we did not find them). According to the legend, their ghosts still return to the valley on moonlit nights, searching for their lost treasure. The rusty, bullet-riddled car is therefore said to be the very relic of that dramatic encounter.

Whether the story is entirely true is another matter. As with so many old Namibian stories, fact and legend have become rather inseparable over the years. But standing beside the rusting Hudson, deep in this isolated valley, it is remarkably easy to believe that there might be something to the story.


Blogger and wife
Rusted Hudson Terraplane car
Namibia 2026


The wild horses of the Namib

Just after leaving the old Hudson and emerging from the valley, we suddenly spot Namibia's famous wild horses.

And what a sight.


We encounter Namibia's famous wild horses
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026


They are standing in absolutely magnificent light, with the mountains and the immense desert landscape behind them. It is one of those completely unexpected wildlife encounters that makes you stop in your tracks. How lucky can you be?

The horses of the Namib are not indigenous African wild horses but descend from domestic horses introduced by Europeans. Their precise origins have been debated for decades. The two strongest theories connect them with horses from the Kubub stud farm near Aus and with horses belonging to the South African Union forces stationed at Garub during the First World War. In 1915, a German aircraft bombed the Union camp at Garub, reportedly scattering around 1,700 grazing cavalry horses. Some of the horses may have escaped and never been recaptured.

The Kubub theory is particularly intriguing. Emil Kreplin, a former mayor of Lüderitz, operated a stud farm at Kubub and bred both workhorses and racehorses. Historical photographs show striking similarities between some of these horses and today's Namib horses. Over time, abandoned and escaped horses are thought to have moved towards the permanent water supply at Garub, where they gradually established the free-ranging population we know today.


Namibia's famous wild horses
Klein Aus Vista
 Namibia 2026


Their survival in such an extreme environment is remarkable. They have adapted to an arid landscape where water and grazing are both scarce, and the population has repeatedly been reduced by severe drought and predation. The Klein-Aus Vista booklet notes that the population declined dramatically during a period of drought and spotted-hyena predation, from around 190 animals to only 74 while the Stone Horse land-art project was being created.

The horses have therefore become much more than simply an unusual attraction. They are a symbol of survival and adaptation in one of the harshest environments imaginable.

And seeing them here, unexpectedly and in such perfect light, makes the encounter all the more special.


A desert in bloom


Flowers on the  Schutztruppe Trail
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026


The walk takes us considerably longer than the three hours suggested in the booklet – although that is hardly surprising. We stop constantly to enjoy the view and take photos.

The landscape is simply too beautiful to hurry through.

Following good winter rainfall, the normally austere desert can be transformed almost beyond recognition. Tiny succulents and other desert plants burst into flower, creating carpets of pink, purple, yellow and white between the rocks. The area around Aus is exceptionally biodiverse despite receiving only around 80–90 mm of rain annually. It lies at the meeting point of three biomes – the Southern Namib Desert, Nama Karoo and Succulent Karoo – while differences in rainfall, slopes, soils and rock formations create an extraordinary diversity of habitats. Many of the plants and animals are endemic to the region. 


Flowers on the  Schutztruppe Trail
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026


This is the famous Namibian desert flower spectacle, and we are lucky enough to experience it at its best. We take far too many photographs of flowers that are tiny and easy to overlook under normal circumstances, but which, after rain, transform the entire landscape.

It is one of the great pleasures of travelling in Namibia: learning to look down as well as across.


A landscape shaped by time

For the nerds, the scenery around Klein-Aus Vista is not simply beautiful – it is extraordinarily old.

The Aus Mountains form part of the ancient Namaqualand Metamorphic Complex, with geological formations dating back roughly two billion years. Around Klein-Aus Vista, the rocks include granitic gneisses, pink quartz-feldspar rocks, quartz veins, biotite schists and amphibolites. The rounded granite boulders are particularly characteristic and have been shaped over immense periods by weathering.

The desert climate continues to shape the landscape today. Strong winds carry sand from the surrounding plains, while intense temperature differences between day and night cause rocks to expand and contract. Layers of rock gradually peel away in a process known as onion-skin weathering, producing the rounded boulders and sculptural rock formations that are so characteristic of Klein-Aus Vista. 


Eagels Nest, Klein Aus Vista
Rounded boulders & sculptural rocks
Namibia 2026


The result is a remarkable combination of bare rock, dry riverbeds, mountain slopes, isolated trees and succulents – seemingly barren at first glance, but actually supporting a surprisingly rich ecosystem.

And this is perhaps what makes walking here so rewarding. The landscape is vast, but the really interesting things are often very small.

After 11 kilometres of walking, countless photographs and more stops than we can remember, we finally make it back to the campsite and our car before driving the 7 km to Eagels Nest.

It has been an excellent way to get some exercise after all those hours spent sitting in the car.

And after a long walk through the mountains, our grilled dinner tastes especially good that evening.


Blogger and wife relaxing at The Boulder
Waiting for braai and sunset
Namibia 2026

Sunset from the terrasse The Boulder
Eagels Nest, Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026