From Cederberg Wilderness to Barefoot Luxury in Paternoster

Sunset Paternoster, South Africa's West Coast 2026

After our ultimate wellness experience at Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat in the Cederberg Mountains, it is time to change style – in more ways than one.

We are heading for the little coastal village of Paternoster, picturesquely situated on South Africa's West Coast, roughly an hour and a half north of Cape Town and close to Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. We have three nights here before our African adventure must, rather reluctantly, come to an end in Cape Town.

From Mountains to the Atlantic

Suddently agricultural areas
South Africa 2026

Urban areas on way to coast
South Africa 2026

The transition from the Cederberg Mountains to the coast is striking.

Behind us are the rugged sandstone mountains, deep ravines, rocky plateaus and wilderness of the Cederberg. As we drive westwards, the landscape gradually opens up. The dramatic mountain scenery gives way to lower rolling hills and broad agricultural areas, where cultivated fields are interspersed with rocky outcrops and patches of seemingly untouched vegetation.

vegetation becomes lower
and wind-shaped
South Africa 2026

And then, as we approach the Atlantic, the landscape changes again.

The soils become increasingly sandy, dunes begin to appear and the vegetation becomes lower and more wind-shaped. We are entering the characteristic vegetation of the Cape West Coast – a mosaic of fynbos and strandveld, adapted to poor sandy soils, winter rainfall, salty air and persistent coastal winds.

Unlike the taller mountain fynbos of the Cederberg, much of the vegetation here forms a low, dense carpet of shrubs, succulents and bulbs. At this time of year it is scattered with flowers in white, yellow, pink, orange and purple, sometimes appearing almost randomly between the otherwise muted greens and greys.

After the rugged wilderness of Bushmans Kloof, it feels as though somebody has changed the scenery while we were driving.

A Rather Different Kind of Wilderness Retreat

Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
Enterence to our suite "Oceanus"
South Africa 2026

We also change style in another sense.

This time we are checking into a super-modern designer beach hotel, Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel.

Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
Four Haute Grandeur Global Hotel Awards
South Africa 2026

And soon after arriving we discover that the hotel has apparently been collecting awards at an impressive rate. Among the certificates on display are four Haute Grandeur Global Hotel Awards for 2026 – Best Beachfront Hotel Africa, Best Coastal Hotel Africa, Best Holiday Retreat Africa and Best Romantic Hotel Africa.

Whatever Haute Grandeur Global Hotel Awards may actually be, it certainly sounds promising!

The moment we check in, the contrast with Bushmans Kloof could hardly be greater.

Where Bushmans Kloof was dark wood, antiques, heavy fabrics and the atmosphere of an elegant English country estate, everything around us here is bright, open and contemporary. To our Scandinavian eyes, it almost feels familiar.

Blogger enjoying Leeto Restaurant view
Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
South Africa 2026

There are huge glass surfaces, smooth white walls, modern art, clean architectural lines, large transparent glass vases containing just a flower or two and simple, carefully selected decorations. Lounge-style furniture seems designed primarily for horizontal living, while indirect lighting emerges from concealed panels and strips in walls and ceilings.

Heated pool, Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
South Africa 2026

The atmosphere is relaxed and informal, and the staff are straightforward, cheerful and extraordinarily welcoming.

They do, however, still have a habit of lining up when we enter for the first few times – and if we come anywhere near a door, somebody immediately rushes forward to open it for us.

That has certainly never happened when we have climbed down from our rooftop tent!

Location, Location, Location

But Strandloper is first and foremost about three things:

Location, location and location.

The hotel lies literally in the first line of dunes, directly beside a large natural area of coastal vegetation and sand dunes.

Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
Leeto Restaurant
South Africa

From the hotel's modern Leeto Restaurant, there is a magnificent uninterrupted view across the beach towards the Atlantic Ocean. Waves roll rhythmically towards the shore, the view disturbed by little except surf, seabirds and the endless rise and fall of the tide.

Swimming looks tempting.

Only looks, though.

Winter has barely finished, and this is South Africa's West Coast, influenced by the cold Benguela Current. Strong coastal winds drive surface water offshore and allow cold, nutrient-rich water to rise from deeper layers – a process known as upwelling.

It is one of the reasons why the Atlantic here is considerably colder than the Indian Ocean along South Africa's east coast, while at the same time supporting exceptionally rich marine life.

So perhaps we will admire the Atlantic rather than swim in it.

Wife took a swim in cold water!
Paternoster, South Africa 2026

Meet Oceanus

Equipped with glasses of brut and canapés, we wait while our “room” is being prepared.

We have booked an Ocean King Suite, which turns out to be called Oceanus.

A receptionist and an assistant escort us to the suite.

Ocean King Suite "Oceanus"
Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel
South Africa 2026

And then we are completely blown away.

This place is out of this world.

It simply has to be one of the finest suites in the hotel. Everything is beautifully designed and architecturally coherent without becoming showy.

We are positioned on the corner of the hotel grounds, with two large private wooden terraces opening directly towards the garden and dunes. Beyond them we look across a small dry watercourse towards the Atlantic in the distance, while in the opposite direction there is an uninterrupted view across a huge expanse of natural vegetation.

Wooden terraces directly to
garden and dunes, Oceanus Suite
South Africa 2026

There is virtually nothing between us and the landscape.

Inside, the open-plan living area has a wood-burning fireplace, large lounge chairs, a comprehensive bird guide and a selection of suitably stylish magazines.

Room service, naturally, is ordered on an iPad.

Of course it is.

Freestanding stone bathtub 
Oceanus Suite, Strandloper
South Africa 2026

The bathroom contains an enormous freestanding stone bathtub designed for two. From it, we can lie comfortably looking directly across the landscape towards the sea while streaming our favourite music through the Bang & Olufsen speakers.

Or, should this relationship with nature suddenly become a little too intimate, we can simply press a button and the automatic blinds descend across the windows.

Perhaps We Could Get Used to This...

I could actually continue describing all the details.

But it would probably become rather irritating to read about them instead of experiencing them yourself :-)

Suffice it to say that Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel is one of the most beautiful, stylish and meticulously designed hotels we have ever stayed in.

Oceanus Suite, Strandloper
South Africa 2026

Admittedly, that statement comes with a small disclaimer.

We have not stayed in that many luxury hotels.

Given the choice, we normally prefer a remote campsite somewhere in the African wilderness.

But following our recent experience at Bushmans Kloof (link), we are beginning to wonder whether this luxury business might actually be something one could learn to live with.

Perhaps all those hotel awards make sense after all.

For now, we are simply looking forward to three nights here, disturbed mainly by the sound of Atlantic waves and birdsong – interrupted only by a few excursions to explore Paternoster, Cape Columbine and the surrounding West Coast.

There are worse ways to spend the final days of an African journey.

View from terrasse, Oceanus Suite
Strandloper, South Africa 2026

The Ravine Trail – A Little Adventure in the Cederber

 

Wife on beginning of Ravine Trail
Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat
Cederberg Mountains, South Africa

We are gradually becoming accustomed to the remarkably comfortable existence at Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat.

Perhaps a little too accustomed to it. We are certainly not lacking anything here ;-)

Well, that is not entirely true. There is one thing we are probably lacking: exercise.

The seemingly endless supply of excellent food and wine, combined with frequent enquiries from the staff along the lines of, “Is there anything else we can get you?”, does not exactly contribute to building muscle mass. Other bodily reserves, however, seem to be doing rather well already.

So we turn our attention to the three hiking trails advertised by Bushmans Kloof.

The Dassie Trail is graded easy and is 3 km long. The Mountain Trail is graded easy to moderate and covers 4.2 km. And then there is the Ravine Trail: 6 km, graded adventure, accompanied by the rather inviting warning:

“Not for anyone who suffers from vertigo.”

Not a difficult decision.

Obviously, we are going on the Ravine Trail.

Choosing the Adventure Route

Blogger, Ravine Trail
South Africa 2026

Before setting off, I enquire exactly what adventure means in this context. Apparently, the route involves negotiating narrow passages and scrambling through openings between rocks, but there is no actual rock climbing involved.

That sounds perfect.

There is also supposed to be a waterfall and a rock pool along the route, where you can take a dip.

We just need to remember one important rule: watch where you put your hands and feet.

As always in this kind of terrain.

According to the information provided at the lodge, the area is home to puff adders, boomslangs, black spitting cobras and Cape cobras, as well as several less dangerous snakes and scorpions.

This does not mean that one should wander around in a state of constant terror. Quite the opposite. During our many trips through Africa, we have actually seen remarkably few snakes.

There was, admittedly, the memorable exception on the second day of our previous Namibia journey with good friends, when we came remarkably close to stepping on a horned adder.

You can read that little story here: (link).

Horned adder on stairs
NamibRand 2024
Namibia

But the general principle remains: look before you step, and particularly before putting your hands into cracks, underneath rocks or into narrow openings that you cannot see properly.

A sensible rule when today's planned entertainment includes crawling through holes in mountains.

“Straight Up!”

Blogger looking for cairns
Bushmans Kloof Ravine Trail
South Africa 2026

We set off from reception carrying rather more emergency equipment than the average hotel guest heading out for a six-kilometre stroll.

We have the satellite phone, compass, extra warm clothing, drinks and even a support bandage.

Just in case.

The receptionist has pointed out where the trail begins.

“Straight up,” she says, pointing towards the nearby mountain.

This turns out to be the only genuinely bad piece of advice we receive during our entire stay at Bushmans Kloof.

We should most definitely not go straight up.

For a while we search unsuccessfully for anything resembling a trail, before eventually discovering that the route initially runs parallel to the wall beside the kitchen garden.

Once we finally locate the first small stone cairns marking the trail, everything becomes much easier. The cairns appear roughly every ten metres and, from this point onwards, the route is generally straightforward to follow.

We are finally on our way.

Straight Into the Difficult Part

Hard start, Ravine Trail
Bushman´s Kloof, South Africa 2026

The Ravine Trail does not believe in gentle introductions.

Almost immediately, we encounter some fairly steep and narrow passages where both hands and both feet are required.

It is actually an excellent beginning because it immediately establishes the level of difficulty.

What we do not know at the time is that it never really gets worse than this.

If you can manage the first section, you can manage the rest of the trail.

But of course, nobody has told us that.

So we continue upwards with a certain degree of excitement, wondering what exactly Bushmans Kloof has hidden around the next corner.

After negotiating the first rocky section, we suddenly emerge onto the plateau.

The contrast is wonderful.

Wife in sunlight on plateau
Ravine Trail, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

Sunlight breaks through the clouds and falls across the mountains, while the terrain becomes considerably flatter and more open.

And this is where the Cederberg Mountains really begin to reveal themselves.

The Cederberg forms part of South Africa's Cape Fold Belt and consists largely of Table Mountain sandstone, weathered over immense periods of time into the extraordinary cliffs, arches, caves and isolated rock formations for which the region is famous. Iron oxides give many of the rocks their characteristic burnt-orange and reddish colours, while mountain fynbos covers large parts of the landscape.

It is a completely different mountain environment from the granite landscapes of Namibia that we know so well.

And it is spectacular.

Blogger on plateau
Ravine Trail, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

Looking at our rather rudimentary map, we can see that we need to cross three clefts in the mountain during the next couple of kilometres before reaching the waterfall. From there, the route follows a much longer ravine back towards Bushmans Kloof.

Progress is good.

Negotiating rocky sections
Ravine Trail, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

The cairns are generally easy to follow and although we occasionally need all four limbs to negotiate short rocky sections, none are more difficult than what we encountered during the first part of the hike.

More importantly, it is beautiful everywhere.

We are already completely sold on the Ravine Trail.

Small rock hyraxes – dassies – scamper across the rocks around us, disappearing almost instantly whenever we get too close.

For a trail beginning only a short distance from a five-star lodge, it feels surprisingly wild.

The Waterfall

Waterfall and rock pool
Ravine Trail, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

Eventually, we hear the waterfall long before we see it.

It lies at the bottom of the long ravine that we will later follow back towards Bushmans Kloof.

The setting itself is lovely, but unfortunately the scenery immediately around the waterfall and rock pool is rather compromised by visible water pipes and electrical cables.

It seems slightly at odds with the Wilderness Reserve atmosphere that Bushmans Kloof otherwise manages so successfully.

Surely this could be done more discreetly?

The descent towards the waterfall also turns out to be noticeably less well marked than the trail so far. It certainly does not appear that many guests venture down this section.

When we eventually reach the bottom of the ravine, we still have to cross through thick vegetation to reach the actual rock pool.

There is no obvious path.

In fact, there may not be a path at all.

And this is precisely the kind of terrain where we are least enthusiastic about putting our feet somewhere we cannot actually see.

So progress becomes slow and careful.

We move through the vegetation while keeping a rather attentive eye open for any unwanted company.

Eventually, we make it safely to the pool.

This part of the trail could definitely benefit from some attention. A simple wooden boardwalk through the dense vegetation and perhaps a small timber platform beside the pool would make a tremendous difference without spoiling the setting.

Blogger by rock pool
Ravine Trail, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

We settle onto a rock beside the water.

It is cloudy.

The water feels extremely cold.

Suddenly the advertised opportunity for a refreshing swim – or even a discreet skinny dip – has lost much of its attraction.

A few biscuits and something to drink seem considerably more appealing.

Into the Ravine

Blogger back on main trail
Ravine Trail, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

After our short break, we head back up to the main trail.

Curiously, climbing up is easier than coming down. From below, it is much easier to see the rocks, ledges and possible handholds.

Soon we are following the ravine back towards the lodge.

And this turns out to be one of the finest sections of the hike.

The sandstone walls rise around us as the route twists through the narrow gorge. Several times we have to squeeze through small caves and openings between the rocks.

At two particularly narrow passages, I have to remove my backpack and push it through ahead of me before following.

Exactly the sort of thing we had hoped for when we selected the trail marked adventure.

Blogger at rock arch
Ravine Trail, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

Then we unexpectedly reach an impressive beautiful natural rock arch.

We had not realised this was part of the route at all.

A wonderful surprise.

The Cederberg sandstone is at its most impressive here – twisted, fractured and sculpted into openings, overhangs and improbable shapes by millions of years of weathering.

It is quite simply a superb hiking landscape.

Almost Another Lap

After around three hours, including our break at the waterfall, we begin to approach Bushmans Kloof again.

And then we lose the trail.

We retrace our steps to the last cairn and systematically scan the surrounding terrain until eventually spotting the next marker.

There it is.

Going down.

We had completely missed the turn and were happily continuing ahead.

Had we not stopped, we might conceivably have started another circuit of the mountain.

That would certainly have solved the problem of excessive calorie intake.

Fortunately, we find the correct descent and soon the lodge appears below us.

Back at lodge, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

Back at reception, we check in again as agreed before leaving, so they know that their two Danish guests – satellite phone, compass, support bandage and all – have returned safely.

And we feel extremely pleased with ourselves.

At last, some proper exercise to compensate for the culinary temptations of Bushmans Kloof.

At least partially.

Our Final Day at Bushmans Kloof

Our cottage, Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

This is our final day here, and looking back, we have had some wonderful days.

The outstanding feature has undoubtedly been the extraordinary level of attention and hospitality from the moment we arrived until the moment we leave.

The staff are warm, friendly and extraordinarily attentive without becoming intrusive.

Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Bushmans Kloof itself is perhaps best described as an elegant country estate with a touch of African wilderness lodge – and a rather eccentric private museum thrown in for good measure.

That description probably comes closer to capturing the experience than simply calling it a safari lodge.

Because Bushmans Kloof is not really a safari destination in the conventional African sense. We have visited quite a few in many countries.

Nature drive with Niel
Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

We enjoyed both our morning drive and sundowner drive with Niel, and the surrounding landscape is undeniably beautiful. But these are essentially nature drives through the reserve and its immediate surroundings rather than the wildlife-focused safari experience one might expect in destinations such as Etosha, Kgalagadi or the private reserves bordering Kruger.

And that is perfectly fine.

Sundowner with Niel
What´s not to like
Bushman´s Kloof, South Africa 2026

It is simply useful to understand what Bushmans Kloof is – and what it is not.

The same applies to the advertised canoeing.

The canoe trips take place on a small dam rather than along a river or stream, as some of the promotional images might perhaps lead you to imagine. For children, or adults who have never paddled a canoe before, it may be an enjoyable little activity.

For anyone accustomed to proper river canoeing, it will for sure be less compelling.

Blogger, Ravine Trail
Bushman´s Kloof
South Africa 2026

The hiking, however, is a completely different matter.

The Ravine Trail was excellent, even for relatively experienced hikers.

Interesting, adventurous without becoming dangerous, wonderfully varied and – apart from the section around the waterfall – generally well marked.

Most importantly, it gives you a much more intimate experience of the magnificent Cederberg landscape than you get from sitting in a vehicle.

So when we return to Bushmans Kloof – and we certainly hope we will – we have already decided what to do.

We will walk all the hiking trails.

That should also create considerably more room for the superb food, excellent South African wines and extraordinary level of pampering.

After all, one has to maintain some sort of balance.

View from our room at night, Water Edge 2
Bushman´s Kloof, South Africa 2026

Bushmans Kloof – Wilderness, Wellness and a Touch of Downton Abbey

 

Library, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

We are approaching the gates of Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat (link), which describes itself as a “five-star award-winning luxury wellness and wilderness retreat in the Western Cape.”

Well, that certainly sounds promising.

Admittedly, it also sounds rather different from many of our usual favourite places – remote campsites, isolated lodges and simple houses somewhere in the Namib Desert, preferably reached after several hours on gravel roads.

But perhaps one can learn to live with luxury wellness too.

From the N7 into the Cederberg

Landscape changes dramatically
Cederberg Mountains
South Africa

We have driven roughly 350 kilometres straight south along the N7 before turning east at Clanwilliam towards the Cederberg Wilderness Area.

From here, the landscape changes dramatically as we head through the beautiful Pakhuis Pass and eventually reach the entrance to Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve.

We stop in front of a large closed gate and press the intercom.

Almost immediately, a cheerful voice comes through:

“Welcome! We have been expecting you and have been looking forward to your arrival. Just continue approximately seven kilometres along the track to the lodge.”

That is quite a welcome.

The automatic gates swing open, we drive through, and they close again behind us.

There is perhaps no turning back now.

A Slightly Different Kind of Arrival

Trees in front of "event building"
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Eventually, we reach the lodge itself, which consists of several low buildings scattered through beautifully landscaped grounds, mostly in what I suppose could best be described as a refined cottage style.

The final driveway takes us between immaculate green lawns, exotic plants, large old trees and palms.

This is certainly not the desert anymore.

As we pull up outside reception, three members of staff are standing in a perfectly straight line waiting for us.

Think Downton Abbey.

The moment we step out of the car, the lodge manager welcomes us warmly. He introduces the other two members of our reception committee: the receptionist on duty and Niel, who will be our personal guide for the next three days.

The manager then casually explains that we can simply hand the car key to Niel. He will take care of the luggage and the car.

And that is the last we see of our Toyota Hilux for three days.

When it eventually reappears, it has – almost miraculously – been washed as well.

I could get used to this.

The receptionist now presents us with warm, damp white cloths on a tray so we can refresh our hands before being escorted inside.

We are offered homemade rooibos iced tea while the formalities are dealt with. “Formalities” turns out to mean handing over one passport for a quick copy.

There is apparently no reason why guests should be troubled with unnecessary paperwork.

Instead, we can concentrate on admiring the reception area with its enormous wooden table, heavy leather furniture and African art covering the walls.

Beautifully furnished sitting rooms
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Would Sir Prefer the Tour First?

We are asked whether we would like to see our cottage immediately or perhaps have a tour of the property first.

Naturally, we choose the tour.

We are curious.

Back outside, the first building pointed out to us is Bushmans Kloof's event venue, a huge structure beside a small stream. In front of it is a beautiful terrace beneath enormous old trees, their long hanging branches creating something resembling natural curtains between the tables.

A little farther away is the first of the property's infinity pools.

Pool number one.

The next building is perhaps 30 by 20 metres with a ceiling that must be 10 or 12 metres high.

Its purpose?

High tea.

Of course.

High tea is served every afternoon at 3 pm, and it is apparently an event sufficiently important to justify having its own substantial building.

Perfectly reasonable.

Immediately outside is infinity pool number two.

Guests arriving by helicopter near tea house
Bushmans Kloof, South Africa 2026 

We later discover that the lawn in front of the tea house also serves as the landing area for helicopters bringing in guests who apparently find the approximately two-hour drive from Cape Town somewhat inconvenient.

We have arrived in a slightly different world.

Kitchen Gardens and Wellness

Next, we pass the lodge's beautiful kitchen garden, surrounded by a low white wall intended to keep wildlife on the correct side.

Inside are immaculate vegetable beds and shaded growing areas protecting the plants from the strong South African sun.

Much of what eventually appears on our plates apparently originates here.

Beside the garden is, naturally, the spa and wellness centre.

Our receptionist reassures us that someone from the spa will contact us later in the day once we have settled in, should we wish to arrange any treatments.

One would hate to miss the opportunity to become well.

Leather Chairs, Log Fires and a Proper Bar

Ornamental pond at night
Bushmans Kloof, South Africa 2026

We continue towards the main bar and restaurant area.

First, we cross a small ornamental pond using large stepping stones. In the evening, it is beautifully illuminated.

Then we enter through an enormous wooden door.

Inside, the style is unmistakably old-world African lodge: dark timber, huge pieces of furniture, heavy leather armchairs, African art and open fireplaces.

There are fires burning in the hearths.

Bar, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

To the left is an enormous bar, where the extremely friendly bartender immediately welcomes us and tells us that we must not hesitate to ask if there is anything at all we need.

It is a sentence we are going to hear rather frequently during the next three days.

Walk straight through past the bar and you reach a secluded courtyard containing pool number three – this one heated – surrounded by a pergola with small tables beneath it.

To the right of the bar are three interconnected dining rooms.

Blogger in library
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

To the left is the library.

And this is not merely a decorative hotel library consisting of six coffee-table books strategically positioned beside a leather chair.

It contains an impressive collection of classic African literature.

One could quite comfortably disappear into one of the enormous leather armchairs here for several hours with a book.

Or, indeed, write a travel blog.

Decorations in sitting rooms
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Beyond the library is a succession of beautifully furnished sitting rooms, eventually leading into a heritage room with historical San and Khoi artefacts and displays describing their traditional way of life and the cultural history of the Cederberg.

The entire place feels somewhere between an elegant country estate, an African wilderness lodge and a rather eccentric private museum.

In a good way.

Our Home by the Water

Our humble cottage "Water´s Edge 2"
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Bathtub Water´s Edge 2
Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

Eventually, we reach our own cottage: Water's Edge 2.

And the name is quite literal.

Our bungalow sits immediately beside a small lake, with wildlife moving through the surrounding grounds and across the water.

There is a private terrace from which to watch it all, as well as sun loungers on the lawn immediately in front of the cottage.

Not bad at all.

But there is no time to linger.

We have arrived just in time for high tea.

High tea, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

High Tea – Naturally

The view from our cottage
Moon and lake, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

We return to the dedicated tea house, where three members of staff are ready to look after the approximately six guests present, including us.

This appears to be a perfectly normal staff-to-guest ratio at Bushmans Kloof.

High tea comes with the expected collection of beautifully presented savoury and sweet delicacies, tea and coffee, while we sit overlooking the lawns and mountains beyond.

Occasionally somebody appears and asks:

“Is there anything else you need?”

No.

But thank you for asking.

Again.

Wilderness – Bushmans Kloof Style

High tea, Bushmans Kloof
South Africa 2026

So, yes.

We have unquestionably checked into Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat, with full board and all activities included – what at slightly more primitive establishments might simply be called all inclusive.

The principal disturbances to the peace and quiet here appear to be members of staff occasionally interrupting the silence to ask whether we need anything.

Or perhaps a helicopter landing on the lawn in front of the tea house with another group of arriving guests.

These are hardships we shall endeavour to endure.

And despite all the luxury, we have certainly not forgotten the wilderness part of Bushmans Kloof.

Our first activity is already arranged: later this afternoon, Niel will take us into the reserve on a nature drive, ending with a sundowner somewhere in the Cederberg landscape.

It will be interesting to see what the next few days bring.

But after only a few hours here, I am beginning to suspect something.

Yes.

I think I could probably get used to luxury wellness after all.

Springbok and 4x4 in Goegap Nature Reserve – Hunting Desert Flowers

Fantastic 4x4 day in Goegap Nature Reserve!
Namibia 2026

The border and Annie’s Guesthouse

Crossing into South Africa
(Still) Namibia 2026

Crossing the border from Namibia into South Africa via Noordoewer was, fortunately, a remarkably painless affair — with one small exception.

Our Customs Declaration was apparently more than 24 hours old and therefore had to be renewed. Unfortunately, there was only one computer with internet access available to everyone crossing the border, and each person took around 15 minutes. Not exactly a high-throughput operation.

Still, we got away with it. A little over an hour later, we were through the border, and it has to be said that every official we met was friendly, helpful and perfectly pleasant. So, despite the slow computer, no complaints.

Charming Annie’s Guesthouse
Springbok, South Africa 2026

After another 150 kilometres south, we arrive in Springbok, a small provincial town in the Northern Cape, and check into the charming Annie’s Guesthouse.

Bridal suite, Annie’s Guesthouse
Springbok, South Africa 2026

Once again, we have somehow ended up booking a bridal suite. At Annie’s, however, the concept takes on a very different meaning. The room feels less like a modern honeymoon suite and more like stepping into an old Danish klunkehjem — the wonderfully ornate, late-19th-century Danish style of interior that seems to have been designed on the principle that there is no such thing as too much decoration.

There are colourful paintings everywhere, heavily draped curtains, ornaments, and decorative objects competing for attention. And, naturally, there is a large old-fashioned clawfoot bathtub.

It is cosy, charming and completely different from the restrained Scandinavian aesthetic we are used to. In other words, we rather like it.

Breakfast, Annie´s Guesthouse
Springbok, South Africa 2026

At breakfast we meet Annie herself. She is now 83 and still very much involved in running the place. It is a pleasure to talk to her and to wander around her beautiful home and garden, both filled with an impressive collection of decorative objects.

There is, however, one slightly unexpected feature: Italian pop music is playing continuously somewhere in the background.

One can tell that the guesthouse has been around for a while, and some things are beginning to show their age. But it remains a wonderfully atmospheric place to stay, the breakfast is excellent, and overall Annie’s makes a very good base for exploring Springbok and the surrounding area.

The hunt for desert flowers begins

Spektakel Pass, hunting desert flowers
South Africa 2026

There is a reason we have stopped in this part of South Africa.

I have promised my wife that we will go hunting for desert flowers in Namaqualand.

Namaqualand is famous for one of nature’s more extraordinary seasonal transformations. Following sufficient winter rain, the normally dry and seemingly barren landscape can suddenly explode into colour during the spring months. Vast areas become covered with carpets of wildflowers — daisies, vygies and numerous other species — turning the desert into something that looks almost unreal.

The catch, of course, is that desert flowers are not particularly interested in our travel plans.

The timing has to be right. There needs to have been enough rain, followed by the right temperatures and sunshine. And even then, some areas may be spectacular while others, only a few kilometres away, remain relatively bare.

So we begin our search by driving through the two nearby mountain passes, Sandhoogte Pass and Spektakel Pass.

Green landscape, few flowers
South Africa 2026

The scenery is certainly impressive. The landscape is surprisingly green, with dramatic mountains and broad open spaces. But when it comes to flowers, there is little to get excited about.

Time for Plan B.

Goegap Nature Reserve

Goegap Nature Reserve, heading for 4x4 trails
South Africa 2026

The following day we decide to try our luck at Goegap Nature Reserve, just outside Springbok.

The reserve protects a spectacular piece of Namaqualand landscape, with rugged mountains, open plains and typical succulent Karoo vegetation. It is also home to a variety of wildlife, including springbok, zebra and oryx, and — when conditions are right — an impressive display of wildflowers.

But there is another reason we are particularly interested in Goegap.

There are several 4x4 trails.

We drive to the park entrance and immediately wonder whether we have got the opening hours wrong.

The place looks completely deserted.

We park the Hilux in an otherwise empty parking area. There is a door standing open, so we walk inside and are greeted by an extremely friendly ranger.

We can recommend yellow tracks
Goegap Nature reserve
South Africa 2026

Within minutes, she has given us all the information we need, a map of the reserve and, more importantly, some very useful advice about which 4x4 routes to choose — and which ones not to choose.

There are several options.

Bloumyn, an area around an old mine high up on one of the mountains, is apparently closed because the track is no longer passable. She also strongly advises us against the Witsand Pass area, which is a long and technically demanding 4x4 route.

Instead, she suggests that we take a large loop all the way to Ja-leegete and then return via Klippad.

There is one particularly interesting section on the Klippad route. It is graded 4 out of 5 for difficulty.

The park's grading system describes a level 4 as a “technical trail for the experienced”.

Level 5, on the other hand, is described as “extremely technical, suitable for only very experienced drivers, with vehicle damage a very real possibility.”

We are perfectly happy with a short section of level 4.

The park's grading system, 4x4 trails
South Africa 2026

Almost no one else has thought of this

We are genuinely surprised by how beautiful the reserve is.

After driving through Spektakel Pass the previous day, we had not expected quite so much.

But here the desert is surprisingly lush. There is vegetation everywhere, the mountains are magnificent, and the track winds through a landscape that feels completely untouched.

And, best of all, we seem to have the place almost entirely to ourselves.

We seem to have the place
almost entirely to ourselves!
Goegap Nature Reserve 4x4 trails
South Africa 2026

Most visitors appear to take the ordinary 2WD tourist route. We see only one other vehicle during the next three to four hours.

For us, this is close to perfect.

The Hilux gets to do what it´s built for
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

The Hilux gets to do what it was built for, while we get to experience the landscape at our own pace.

At Ja-leegete we come across a larger herd of zebra. Shortly afterwards, a group of springbok suddenly bounds across the road in front of us, performing their unmistakable ballet-like leaps.

Large herd of zebra
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

It is one of those moments when you are very happy to have the windows open and the air-conditioning switched off.

Desert flowers
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

Wife and desert flowers
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

The Klippad challenge

On Klippad track
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

We continue onto the Klippad track.

After stopping for a break near a small natural spring, the character of the drive changes.

4H becomes 4L.

First gear.

And then we start climbing.

The track is rocky and narrow, with rocks and bushes crowding the sides. Progress is slow and deliberate. This is not about speed. It is about placing the four wheels exactly where you want them.

We have all the windows open and the air-conditioning off. It is warm, but that is exactly how we want it.

We want to hear the tyres on the rocks, the engine working in low range and the sounds of the reserve around us.

After a while, the really steep sections begin — this time going downhill.

And downhill is always worse.

Going uphill, at least, you can see where you are going.

Going down a steep, rocky track, the bonnet can completely block your view of what lies immediately in front of the vehicle. Sometimes the only solution is to stick your head out of the side window and look down the track. At other times, someone gets out and directs the driver.

Every wheel placement matters.

We carefully avoid the deepest ruts, where the underbody could easily be damaged. We also steer around larger rocks that have rolled onto the track.

But the most treacherous obstacles are not necessarily the obvious ones.

Small streams have cut across the track over time, undermining the road, particularly on the downhill side. In places, the erosion has created a surprisingly deep trench right alongside the track.

The trick is to keep the vehicle high on the safe side.

Too far towards the low side, and one wheel can suddenly disappear into the eroded section.

And if that happens, the 4x4 adventure is over.

You are then looking at a potentially very long wait for help — ideally another vehicle equipped with a winch.

So we take our time.

Very slowly.

Very carefully.

Focused on the rocky track
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

And, strangely enough, it is immensely satisfying.

There is something almost therapeutic about being completely focused on a rocky track.

For hours, there is nothing else.

No emails. No phones. No work. No plans.

Just the Hilux, four wheels, a rocky trail and the next obstacle.

It is pure concentration — and, in its own peculiar way, pure therapy.

Especially when the therapy session takes place in the middle of this extraordinary landscape.

Flowers, wildlife and four-wheel-drive therapy

Fantastic day in Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

We end up having a fantastic day in Goegap Nature Reserve.

We find desert flowers, although perhaps not quite the spectacular carpets we had secretly been hoping for. We see zebra and springbok in their natural habitat, explore a beautiful and surprisingly green landscape, and get exactly the amount of 4x4 driving we were looking for.

Challenging enough to be exciting.

Technical enough to require concentration.

But not so extreme that we start wondering whether our travel insurance covers vehicle recovery in the middle of nowhere.

Most importantly, the ranger's advice at the entrance turns out to be spot on. Choosing the right route makes all the difference, and we are very glad we took the time to listen carefully to her recommendations.

Back at the park office, we relax for a while. During the flower season there is a small kiosk where visitors can order food, and behind the office we discover a lovely little rock garden.

We found flowers
Goegap Nature Reserve
South Africa 2026

Across the road is another attraction: a small “forest” of quiver trees, their distinctive shapes standing out against the surrounding landscape.

It is a fitting end to a day that has delivered far more than we expected.

Now it is time to head back to Springbok.

Tomorrow we have a long drive ahead of us towards the Cederberg Mountains — and what is supposed to be a luxury retreat.

After today, we are curious to see whether it can possibly live up to the standard