Relaxing Days in Windhoek

 

Arrival 7:20 with Discovery Airlines (Lufthansa)
Temperature around zero!
Windhoek, Namibia 2026

We arrive in Windhoek two days before my brother and sister-in-law. A perfect opportunity to spend some time exploring Namibia's capital. On our previous trips, Windhoek has simply been a convenient overnight stop before heading straight into the wilderness. This time, we decide to give the city the attention it deserves.

It doesn't take long before we encounter a few obstacles.

The friendly receptionist at Olive Grove Guesthouse assures us that it is perfectly fine to walk the nearly two kilometres into the city centre, provided we stick to Robert Mugabe Drive rather than taking quieter side streets. As in many larger African cities, a little common sense goes a long way. We carry only a small amount of cash, one credit card and keep our phones out of sight unless needed. Watches and "jewellery" stay safely at the guesthouse. With these simple precautions, the walk feels both pleasant and relaxed.

Nice oasis, Olive Grove Guesthouse
Namibia 2026

Anybody Home?

Our sightseeing, however, gets off to a rather disappointing start.

Our first destination, the National Art Gallery of Namibia, is closed for renovations. The next stop, the Owela Museum of Natural History, is also closed. Surely Christuskirche, Windhoek's iconic Lutheran church, will be open? Unfortunately not.

Somewhat ironically, we pass the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism on our way. Perhaps there is an opportunity here. If Namibia wants visitors to spend an extra day or two in the capital before heading off to Etosha, Sossusvlei or Damaraland, ensuring that the city's main attractions are actually accessible would be a good place to start. After our first two kilometres of sightseeing, Windhoek has not yet managed to convince us.

By now you can probably guess what happens next.

Alte Feste, Windhoek's oldest surviving colonial building, originally constructed by the German Schutztruppe in 1890 as a military headquarters and fortress, is... also closed for renovations.

Christuskirche,
Windhoek's iconic Lutheran church
Namibia 2026

Independence Memorial Museum

Fortunately, we finally find one attraction that is open: the striking Independence Memorial Museum. The building itself is impossible to miss. Designed and built with North Korean assistance, many locals affectionately refer to it as "the coffee maker"—one look at its distinctive silhouette and you'll immediately understand why if you google it.

The museum is well worth a visit. Its exhibitions provide a powerful account of Namibia's colonial past, documenting the brutal oppression, forced displacement and atrocities committed during German colonial rule. It is an important story that deserves to be told.

The historical narrative does, however, occasionally feel a little one-sided. At times, life before colonialism is portrayed as a period of peaceful coexistence among Namibia's peoples—a description that probably deserves a few footnotes. Our travels throughout Africa have repeatedly reminded us that conflicts between kingdoms, tribes and ethnic groups existed long before Europeans arrived. History is rarely black and white.

Namibia´s constitution from  21st MAR 1990,
Independence Memorial Museum
Namibia 2026

High Views and Mixed Reviews

At the top of the museum is a pleasant restaurant offering panoramic views across Windhoek and the surrounding mountains. Or rather, it almost does. For reasons known only to the architect, the terrace railings are so high that you cannot really enjoy the view while sitting down. Fortunately, standing up solves the problem.

Our favourite stop of the day turns out to be the Namibia Craft Centre. It is a delightful oasis of high-quality local crafts, with fixed and fair prices, making it easy to browse without feeling pressured. In the centre of the courtyard is a lovely café that serves an excellent lunch, and secure parking is available just below. This is definitely a place we would recommend.

In the evening, we dine at Heinitzburg Restaurant, perched high on a hillside overlooking Windhoek. The service is friendly, the setting elegant and the views magnificent. Our seafood tasting menu, however, proves to be—let's just say—a somewhat mixed culinary experience. Next time, we would happily choose one of the restaurant's meat dishes instead. We are already looking forward to our reservation at Stellenbosch Wine Bar and Bistro later in the trip.

Namibia Craft Centre,
Windhoek, Namibia 2026

Heinitzburg Restaurant,
mixed culinary experience,
Namibia 2026

Brother and sister-in-law arrive

It´s Saturday, and my brother and sister-in-law arrive after an entirely straightforward journey and a smooth visa-on-arrival process at Windhoek Airport. Thanks to our reconnaissance, they can skip all the closed attractions and head straight for the Independence Memorial Museum, lunch at the Namibia Craft Centre café, a relaxing afternoon at Olive Grove Guesthouse and dinner at Joe's Beerhouse.

Joe's Beerhouse delivers exactly what you would expect. A lively atmosphere, friendly service and generous portions, with game and grilled meat taking centre stage. Vegetarians may find better options elsewhere, but for anyone wanting a classic, slightly heavy, Namibian dining experience, it remains a reliable choice.

Joe's Beerhouse,
Windhoek, Namibia 2026

More Gateway Than Destination

After spending a couple of days in Windhoek, our overall impression remains much the same. The city works well as Namibia's gateway, but it has yet to realise its full potential as a destination in its own right. That feels like a missed opportunity. Windhoek has an interesting history, an attractive setting and plenty of character. With easier access to its cultural attractions and a stronger focus on the visitor experience, many travellers might be tempted to stay just a little longer before setting off to explore one of Africa's most spectacular countries

Olive Grove Guesthouse
Namibia 2026

Olive Grove Guesthouse
Namibia 2026

Independence Memorial Museum
Namibia 2026

Erongo Mountains and Okonjima Nature Reserve, part 5

The Erongo Mountains – Granite Giants and Ancient Rock Art

Ai Aiba Lodge, Erongo Mountains,
Namibia 2022

After three wonderful days on the Atlantic coast, we leave the cool sea breeze behind and head northeast into one of Namibia's most fascinating and often overlooked landscapes—the Erongo Mountains.

Our destination is Ai Aiba Lodge, beautifully nestled amongst enormous granite outcrops in an ancient volcanic landscape unlike anywhere else in the country.

The Erongo Mountains are famous for their spectacular rock formations, dramatic scenery and hundreds of ancient San rock art sites that bear witness to thousands of years of human history. Combined with excellent hiking trails, impressive birdlife and extraordinary photographic opportunities, the region is a paradise for anyone who appreciates nature beyond the traditional safari experience.

This will not be our first visit to Ai Aiba. We have enjoyed staying here in 2022 and are looking forward to returning with the family to explore the walking trails and once again experience the peaceful atmosphere that makes this lodge so special. If you would like to know more about our previous stay, you can read about it here (link).

Unlike many visitors rushing between Etosha and Swakopmund, we have deliberately included two nights in the Erongo Mountains. It is one of those places that rewards travellers willing to slow down, leave the vehicle behind and simply immerse themselves in the landscape.

Okonjima Nature Reserve – A Perfect Finale

Okonjima Nature Reserve,
Namibia 2022

Our final destination before returning to Windhoek is Okonjima Nature Reserve, where we will spend our last nights at the beautiful Okonjima Plains Camp.

Internationally recognised for its pioneering conservation work, Okonjima is best known for its long association with the AfriCat Foundation and its research into Namibia's large carnivores, particularly leopards and brown hyenas. Unlike a traditional safari destination, the emphasis here is on conservation, education and understanding these elusive predators in their natural environment.

We are especially looking forward to joining one of the reserve's guided leopard tracking excursions, offering the rare opportunity to observe these magnificent cats while learning about the ongoing conservation efforts that help secure their future.

After weeks of travelling through deserts, mountains, canyons and along the Atlantic coast, Okonjima feels like the perfect place to slow the pace one final time. Surrounded by peaceful bushveld, abundant wildlife and the warm colours of the African sunset, it promises to provide a memorable conclusion to another unforgettable Namibian adventure.

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast, part 4

On the way to Swakopmund,
Namibia 2024

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast

After three unforgettable nights in NamibRand, we face one of the longest driving days of the entire journey as we make our way towards Namibia's Atlantic coast.

Rather than attempting the drive in a single day, we have decided to break the journey with an overnight stay at Desert Grace Lodge, a property we have wanted to experience for several years.

Its contemporary architecture contrasts beautifully with the surrounding desert, while every villa enjoys uninterrupted views across the vast plains. Even the private plunge pools look incredibly inviting—although, at this time of year, the water will almost certainly be too cold for anything more than a very brief swim!

The journey itself is part of the adventure. The road crosses two of Namibia's most spectacular mountain passes, Gaub Pass and Kuiseb Pass, both offering dramatic scenery and fascinating geology. If you would like to know more about these remarkable routes, you can read about our previous drive through the passes here (Gaub & Kuiseb 2024).

Swakopmund, Sandwich Harbour and a Flight Above the Namib

Eventually the desert gives way to the cool Atlantic Ocean as we arrive in Swakopmund, Namibia's charming coastal town with its unmistakable German colonial heritage.

This time we will be staying at The Stiltz, an unusual lodge where wooden chalets stand on stilts overlooking the Swakop River lagoon, the Atlantic Ocean and the edge of the Namib Desert.

On previous visits we stayed at the nearby Desert Breeze Lodge, which we can warmly recommend. Both properties share the same owners, so we are looking forward to discovering whether The Stiltz lives up to the high standards we experienced before. Judging by its unique location, it certainly has every chance.

As always, we have planned plenty of memorable experiences during our stay.

One full day will be devoted to a guided excursion to Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours. Few places in Africa are as spectacular as the point where towering sand dunes plunge directly into the Atlantic Ocean, and driving along the beach beneath these giant dunes remains one of Namibia's truly iconic experiences.

Naturally, excellent food also forms part of the itinerary. One evening we will return to The Tug, one of Swakopmund's best-known restaurants, while another dinner is already reserved at Ocean Cellar, where we have previously enjoyed some of the finest seafood anywhere in Southern Africa.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour,
Namibia 2024

Perhaps the most exciting experience of all, however, awaits from the air.

For the first time, we have chartered a Cessna scenic flight to experience Namibia from an entirely different perspective. During more than two hours in the air, the flight covers approximately 630 kilometres, revealing landscapes that few visitors ever see from the ground.

Flying above the towering dunes of the Namib Desert, the dramatic coastline of the Skeleton Coast, forgotten shipwrecks and vast empty wilderness promises to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that will remain with us forever.

If everything goes according to plan—and the landing is as smooth as the take-off—it may well become the highlight of the entire journey. You can read about the flight here (Sossusfly Excursion) and see a video here (Sossusfly on Yotube)

Source link airchraft fleet

NamibRand Nature Reserve, One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth, part 3

 

NamibRand Nature Reserve,
Namibia 2022

Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. Winding through endless desert plains beneath towering mountain ranges and colourful sand dunes, it is one of those roads where every bend reveals another breathtaking landscape.

Our destination is NamibRand Nature Reserve, which may well become the highlight of this journey.

Established in 1984, NamibRand is one of Africa's largest private nature reserves, covering more than 215,000 hectares along the eastern boundary of Namib-Naukluft National Park. Its commitment to conservation and remarkably low levels of light pollution earned it designation as one of the world's first International Dark Sky Reserves, making it one of the finest places on Earth to experience the night sky.

For the next three nights we have rented the beautifully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in complete isolation amidst the vast desert landscape. There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light—only silence, endless space and spectacular scenery.

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife, and we also hope to explore the property's excellent 4WD trails. If conditions allow, we may even climb one of the nearby mountains to enjoy panoramic views across this extraordinary landscape.

This will actually be our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

 

4 hours nature drive, NamibRand,
Namibia 2022

Over the years we have experienced the reserve in very different ways. We have camped at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (Camping 2024), walked the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (Tok Tokkie Trails 2022), and enjoyed the ultimate luxury at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality matches the spectacular surroundings (Wolwedans 2022).

During that stay, I also climbed Mount Loosberg, the highest peak within the reserve. It was one of the most demanding hikes I have undertaken in Namibia and remains an unforgettable experience. If you are considering following in my footsteps, I would strongly recommend reading my account first—it is certainly not a hike to underestimate (Trek Loosberg).

Fish River Canyon and Tsau Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park, part 2

 

 

Fish River Lodge pool,
Namibia, 2022.

After two nights in the Kalahari, we continue southwest towards one of Namibia's greatest natural wonders—Fish River Canyon.

For the next two nights we will stay at Fish River Canyon Lodge, which enjoys an extraordinary location right on the edge of the world's second-largest canyon. Few hotels can honestly claim to offer a true room with a view, but this is certainly one of them. Waking up to the vast canyon stretching endlessly across the landscape is an unforgettable experience.

The highlight of our stay will be the lodge's seven-hour Canyon Drive, descending from the rim to the canyon floor before climbing back to the top. We were fortunate enough to experience this excursion on a previous visit, and it remains one of the most memorable activities we have done anywhere in Namibia. We are therefore particularly excited to share it with my brother and sister-in-law.

For those preferring a more relaxed pace, the area also offers excellent walking trails along the canyon rim, while the swimming pool provides one of the finest views imaginable—even if the water is rather chilly during the Namibian winter!

Leaving Fish River Canyon behind, we follow the beautiful Arimas River Road (D463), a route we have driven once before and one that remains among our absolute favourites in Namibia. In our opinion, it rivals even the famous D707, which we will encounter later on this journey. The road winds through magnificent desert scenery with very little traffic, making the drive itself one of the day's highlights.

Klein Aus Vista, Eagels Nest cabin,
Namibia, 2022.

Our destination is Klein Aus Vista, where we have booked the unique self-catering stone cottage known as The Boulder for three nights. Built around an enormous granite boulder, the cottage blends beautifully into the surrounding landscape and offers complete peace and privacy on the edge of the former Sperrgebiet.

For more than a century, this vast area was closed to the public because of its rich diamond deposits. Today it forms Tsau Khaeb National Park, protecting one of the world's most important biodiversity hotspots, famous for its remarkable succulent flora and pristine desert ecosystems.

During our stay, we plan to explore several of the well-marked walking trails around Klein Aus Vista before making a day trip to the historic coastal town of Lüderitz and the haunting ghost town of Kolmanskop, where drifting desert sand slowly continues to reclaim the abandoned diamond-mining settlement. You can read about our previous visit in an earlier blog post (Kolmanskop 2022).

Windhoek and the Kalahari Desert, part 1

Collecting Hilux at Bushlore,
Windhoek, Namibia 2026

Our adventure naturally begins in Namibia's capital, Windhoek, where my wife and I arrive two days before the rest of the family. This gives us time to collect our trusted Toyota Hilux 4×4 from Bushlore Car Hire, a company we have now used several times. Their vehicles have always been impeccably prepared, and although they are not the cheapest option, the excellent service and reliability make the extra cost worthwhile.

Before the family arrives, we finally have the opportunity to spend some time exploring Windhoek itself. During previous trips we have simply stayed overnight before heading straight into the wilderness, so it will be nice to discover more of the city this time.

From Windhoek we head south into the Kalahari Desert, where we will spend two nights in one of the spectacular Dune Chalets at Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, perched high on top of the red sand dunes.

Dune Chalets at Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch,
Namibia, 2026

The reserve is home to an impressive variety of wildlife, including springbok, eland, kudu, giraffe, ostrich, numerous antelope species and even families of meerkats.

Our first evening will be spent on a Night Game Drive, which promises an adventurous safari through the mysterious atmosphere of the desert after dark. With a little luck we may encounter aardwolves, African wild cats, owls and other nocturnal creatures rarely seen during daylight hours.

Night Drive at Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2026.

The following day is intentionally left unhurried. We simply want to enjoy the beautiful surroundings before joining a cheetah feeding experience, an afternoon nature drive and, of course, a classic Namibian sundowner from the top of a red sand dune as the sun slowly disappears below the horizon.

Sunset, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2026

Our Family Adventure Begins: Namibia 2026 Central and Southern Highlights Trip

Blogger planning trip,
Olive Grove Guesthouse,
Windhoek, namibia 2026

If there is one country that keeps drawing us back, it is undoubtedly Namibia. By now, we have visited often enough to call it our favourite destination in Africa.

On our previous journey, we travelled with close friends on a quite extreeme expedition (Namibia 2024). This time, however, we have persuaded my brother and sister-in-law to join us for their very first visit to this remarkable country. Sharing highlights from a place that has given us so many unforgettable memories is perhaps even more rewarding than discovering somewhere new ourselves.

As always, I have thoroughly enjoyed planning every aspect of the trip. After many self-drive adventures across Southern Africa, researching routes, comparing lodges and piecing together the perfect itinerary has become part of the experience itself.

Highlights ininerary

For this journey, we have chosen to focus on the highlights of central and southern Namibia, revisiting several of our favourite places while allowing enough time to truly enjoy them. Instead of rushing from one attraction to the next, we have planned two or three nights at almost every destination—a style of travelling we have come to appreciate after our earlier visits.

Our route combines dramatic desert landscapes, towering red dunes, one of the world's largest canyons, spectacular mountain passes, the Skeleton Coast and the extraordinary granite formations of the Erongo Mountains, home to hundreds of ancient San rock art sites, fascinating wildlife and wonderful hiking trails.

Unlike many first-time visitors, we have decided to skip Etosha National Park and northern Namibia altogether. Those regions certainly deserve a journey of their own, but for this trip we prefer slower travel, spending quality time in each destination rather than covering as many kilometres as possible.

This is the itinerary for the first three weeks of what promises to be another unforgettable Namibian adventure.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour
Namibia 2025

The itinerary includes:

• Windhoek
• The Kalahari Desert
• Fish River Canyon
• Tsau Khaeb National Park and Lüderitz
• NamibRand Nature Reserve
• Sossusvlei region
• Swakopmund and Sandwich Harbour
• The Erongo Mountains
• Okonjima Nature Reserve

In the following five posts, I will descripe the 2026 itinerary in more detals

1. Windhoek and the Kalahari Desert (Part 1)
2. Fish River Canyon and Tsau Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park (Part 2)
3. NamibRand Nature Reserve, One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth (Part 3)
4. Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast (Part 4)
5. Erongo Mountains and Okonjima Nature Reserve (Part 5)

Extreme 4WD Adventure: Rooidrom, Joubert's Pass, and Beyond!

On the way to the top of Rooidrum Pass, Namibia, 2024.

"Below, I recount the thrilling story of what turned out to be our wildest 4WD experience in Namibia to date. We were pushed to the limit, and it became a very long day, requiring a major detour through desolate desert landscapes, navigating some of Namibia’s toughest passes, including Rooidrum and Joubert's Pass, and passing the famous landmarks Rooidrum and Bloudrum on the round trip through Orupembe and back to Etambura Camp!"

A full day circular 4WD tour through some of Namibia’s toughest passes!

On the top of Riooidrum Passs in Kaokoland,  
one of the wildest and least populated areas in Namibia, 2024.

We’re in northwest Kaokoland (now known as the Kunene Region since 1990), one of the wildest and least populated areas in the country, with a population density of just one person every 2 km². Kaokoland stretches from the Hoanib River in the south to the Kunene River, which also marks the border between Namibia and Angola. The landscape is largely mountainous, dry, and rocky.

One of Kaokoland’s famous and - and infamous - features is its incredibly challenging and legendary 4WD tracks that wind through mountains, rocks, and desert sand. The most famous and notorious of these is Van Zyl’s Pass, beginning at Otjihende, where you descend through a difficult passage to the Marienfluss Valley. 

Nearly as famous are Rooidrom and Joubert's Passes, located right next to Etaambura Camp, where we’re staying in a spectacular setting that feels like a cross between Tranquility Base and the Garden of Eden (link to travel report). 

The emptation is just too strong! We’re “right next door” and can explore two of Namibia’s three most famous (and notorious) passes. On top of that, we’re armed with two solid Toyota Land Cruisers equipped with 4 spare tires, repair kits, winches, a satellite phone, and various tools.

Before setting out, we make sure to bring plenty of water. We then head down the steep path from Etaambura Camp, turning north, and pass the turnoff to Marble Mine and House on the Hill. Spirits are high as we follow two tracks on the hard, rocky ground, keeping in constant contact between vehicles via walkie-talkies.

The challenges start suddenly!

The challenges start suddenly as we reach Rooidrum Pass! This proves to be the wildest 4WD experience in Africa so far! 

I stop the Land Cruiser in front of the steep ascent, which looks more like a cliff face with small ledges at different levels and high rock walls on both sides. The cliff is covered in stones of various sizes, with deep cracks and holes throughout. Is this really the way up?

I get out and hike up to the top of the pass.
This is indeed the trail  - wild!!!

I get out and hike up to the top of the pass. This is indeed the trail  - wild! My heart rate and blood pressure rise as I decide to take on the climb! I set the Land Cruiser in low gear, with four-wheel drive and traction control engaged. Impressively, it powers through the steep rock obstacles as I do my best to steer around the largest holes and cracks.

I notice that my tire pressure is too low for this rocky stretch, but it’s too late to change once you’re on the incline. It doesn’t help that the handbrake on our Bushlore Land Cruiser is too weak! If we stall, the plan is for my fearless wife to jump out and place four large rocks behind the wheels. We actually drove this stretch alone with our children in 2012 in a Land Rover Defender, but the pass feels far more challenging now as much of the gravel has washed away, exposing deep cracks.

We make it to the top, with my pulse and blood pressure even higher, but fortunately, the tires stay intact without coming off the rims or getting side cuts on the bulging sidewalls.

Walk down to guide friends!
Rooidrum Pass, Namibia, 2024

I then talk to our friends in Land Cruiser 2 (call sign “Rhino 2” on the walkie-talkies ;-) and they’re up for the challenge, despite this being their first trip to Africa! We might just have the most fearless friends in the world on this expedition! I walk in frot of their Land Cruiser, pointing out the best spots for wheel placement to avoid getting stuck in deep cracks and holes. They also reach the top without any issues, and we adjust tire pressure.

My wife and I adjust tyre pressure to 2.0
at top of Rooidrum Pass, Namibia, 2024.

We figure it can’t get any worse (famous last words, anyone?)

Surprised by the terrain’s difficulty, we consider whether to tackle the next nearby pass or turn back while we still can. We figure it can’t get any worse (famous last words, anyone?).

Sharp rocks on the trail,
high risk of side cuts!
Namibia, 2024

The drive up the next pass, Joubert's Pass, goes smoothly and seems easier than Rooidrum Pass. But the descent is a whole other story. Steep rock walls close in on both sides of the vehicle as we go down, with limited visibility of the obstacles ahead - large holes, loose rocks, boulders, and steep drop-offs. Going down proves much harder than going up! The risk is that the undercarriage might get stuck despite the high ground clearance, tires could puncture (especially side cuts), or the vehicle could tip if the balance shifts too much to one side. In some spots, there’s no choice - only a high path on one side and a lower one on the other. A toppled vehicle wedged between two high rock walls would be no joke to free, especially on a narrow, steep stretch (and at 2.5 tons with a weak handbrake!).

Down safely, wife takes break with one of
Kaokoland´s famous stonemen!
Namibia, 2024.

Fortunately, both vehicles make it down safely, though we’re exhausted and a bit shaken by the route’s difficulty. Now we face a dilemma: the only way back is the same route we just took! This wasx supposed to be a round trip! Our plan was to drive to the famous landmark - a red oil drum called “Rooidrum” - from there a bit into the renowned Marienfluss Valley, and then back the same way. But the thought of crossing the two mountain passes again seems a bit like tempting fate now that we’ve made it once, especially with our heart rates still up after that intense descent!

Our escape route!

Our approx. 150 / 8 hours
circular tour, Namibia, 2024.

There’s another possible route I’ve been considering on the map. According to Tracks4Africa, you can drive about 25 km west toward Skeleton Coast and the landmark Bloudrum - a blue oil drum - then follow a desert trail south for over 100 km to Orupembe, which we passed on our way to Etaambura Camp two days ago. There are no settlements along this way, just isolated stone and sand desert! This is a long, unknown detour for us, but with adrenaline still pumping from Joubert's Pass, the idea of avoiding the two passes is tempting. We decide to try this much longer route.

Rooidrom, Kaokoland,
Namibia, 2024.

We reach Rooidrum Pass without major issues (compared to what we’ve encountered so far). Here, we meet a safari group with two vehicles, one towing a trailer, carrying about ten tourists and all their gear, and heading toward the same route we just came from! Incredible. The experienced guide confirms that the route I found on the map is real, driveable, and less challenging than the two passes.

Blog author & wife at Bloudrum,
a landmark very few persons have ever seen!
Namibia, 2024.

Only "local life" we meet (with Himba shepherds)
during 8 hrs drive, between Rooidrum and Bloudrum
near only water pump, Namibia, 2024.

So, we continue westward to Bloudrum, a landmark that very few persons have ever seen, marking the entrance to one of Namibia’s most remote and inaccessible areas, Hartmann Valley. The only people we see over the next five hours are a group of Himba women with a herd of goats near the only well in the vast landscape. It’s surreal, as though we’ve traveled hundreds of years back in time, if not for our two massive Land Cruisers interrupting the scene.

As we headed west from Rooidrum, we crossed numerous dry stream beds and riverbeds. But after passing Bloudrum and turning south toward Orupembe, the landscape became less rocky and more like a sandy desert. 

Tje landscape just after Bloudrum,
Namibia, 2024.

Mountains East, separating us from
Etaambura Camp, Namibia, 2024.

A break after 6 hrs drive under one of the
only trees in the desert  (shade tree picnic spot)
on Tracks4Africa, Namibia, 2024.

To the east, we can see the mountains separating us from our camp at Etaambura. All around us, the colorful sands and mountains show every shade of brown, red, and khaki. We have to drive all the way around the mountain range and past Orupembe before heading back toward our valley. Thankfully, we filled up (at great expense) with diesel in Puros! We haven’t yet needed the 40 liters in our two jerry cans on the roof.

Home safe!

The last 15 km before Orupembe bring intense corrugation. If you have kidney stones, they’d shake right down to the urinary tract! It’s exhausting, and we’re definitely getting tired by now!

After Orupembe, we drive the final 30 km north to Etaambura Camp. The last 1,000 meters up the mountain trail suddenly feel very easy after Rooidrum and Joubert's Pass! 

The last 1,000 m up the mountain trail
to Etaambura Camp, now easy!
Namibia, 2024.

Geateful to be home safe with friends,
Enjoying sunset over Onjuva plains,
Etaambura, Namibia, 2024.

That evening, we unwind on the viewing platform atop the mountain at Etaambura Camp, grateful to be back safe and sound, with no punctures or mishaps. G&Ts are in order as we watch the sun set over the sacred Onjuva plains and mountains!

Tomorrow, we head on the long journey back to Opuwo (which, as it turns out, also held some driving challenges with powder sand and clay after passing Kaoko Otavi, but thats another story!).

 

A word of warning:

One of our four spare tyres!
Namibia, 2024.

Don’t enter this area unprepared. Help is a long way away if anything goes wrong. At minimum, bring a satellite phone and Tracks4Africa. Needless to say, the trip requires two solid 4WD vehicles, with full equipment.