Monday, 27 July 2026

Erongo Mountains and Okonjima Nature Reserve, part 5

The Erongo Mountains – Granite Giants and Ancient Rock Art


Ai Aiba Lodge, Erongo Mountains,
Namibia 2022

After three wonderful days on the Atlantic coast, we leave the cool sea breeze behind and head northeast into one of Namibia's most fascinating and often overlooked landscapes—the Erongo Mountains.

Our destination is Ai Aiba Lodge, beautifully nestled amongst enormous granite outcrops in an ancient volcanic landscape unlike anywhere else in the country.

The Erongo Mountains are famous for their spectacular rock formations, dramatic scenery and hundreds of ancient San rock art sites that bear witness to thousands of years of human history. Combined with excellent hiking trails, impressive birdlife and extraordinary photographic opportunities, the region is a paradise for anyone who appreciates nature beyond the traditional safari experience.

This will not be our first visit to Ai Aiba. We have enjoyed staying here in 2022 and are looking forward to returning with the family to explore the walking trails and once again experience the peaceful atmosphere that makes this lodge so special. If you would like to know more about our previous stay, you can read about it here (link).

Unlike many visitors rushing between Etosha and Swakopmund, we have deliberately included two nights in the Erongo Mountains. It is one of those places that rewards travellers willing to slow down, leave the vehicle behind and simply immerse themselves in the landscape.


Okonjima Nature Reserve – A Perfect Finale


Okonjima Nature Reserve,
Namibia 2022


Our final destination before returning to Windhoek is Okonjima Nature Reserve, where we will spend our last nights at the beautiful Okonjima Plains Camp.

Internationally recognised for its pioneering conservation work, Okonjima is best known for its long association with the AfriCat Foundation and its research into Namibia's large carnivores, particularly leopards and brown hyenas. Unlike a traditional safari destination, the emphasis here is on conservation, education and understanding these elusive predators in their natural environment.

We are especially looking forward to joining one of the reserve's guided leopard tracking excursions, offering the rare opportunity to observe these magnificent cats while learning about the ongoing conservation efforts that help secure their future.

After weeks of travelling through deserts, mountains, canyons and along the Atlantic coast, Okonjima feels like the perfect place to slow the pace one final time. Surrounded by peaceful bushveld, abundant wildlife and the warm colours of the African sunset, it promises to provide a memorable conclusion to another unforgettable Namibian adventure.

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast, part 4

On the way to Swakopmund,
Namibia 2024

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast

After three unforgettable nights in NamibRand, we face one of the longest driving days of the entire journey as we make our way towards Namibia's Atlantic coast.

Rather than attempting the drive in a single day, we have decided to break the journey with an overnight stay at Desert Grace Lodge, a property we have wanted to experience for several years.

Its contemporary architecture contrasts beautifully with the surrounding desert, while every villa enjoys uninterrupted views across the vast plains. Even the private plunge pools look incredibly inviting—although, at this time of year, the water will almost certainly be too cold for anything more than a very brief swim!

The journey itself is part of the adventure. The road crosses two of Namibia's most spectacular mountain passes, Gaub Pass and Kuiseb Pass, both offering dramatic scenery and fascinating geology. If you would like to know more about these remarkable routes, you can read about our previous drive through the passes here (Gaub & Kuiseb 2024).


Swakopmund, Sandwich Harbour and a Flight Above the Namib

Eventually the desert gives way to the cool Atlantic Ocean as we arrive in Swakopmund, Namibia's charming coastal town with its unmistakable German colonial heritage.

This time we will be staying at The Stiltz, an unusual lodge where wooden chalets stand on stilts overlooking the Swakop River lagoon, the Atlantic Ocean and the edge of the Namib Desert.

On previous visits we stayed at the nearby Desert Breeze Lodge, which we can warmly recommend. Both properties share the same owners, so we are looking forward to discovering whether The Stiltz lives up to the high standards we experienced before. Judging by its unique location, it certainly has every chance.

As always, we have planned plenty of memorable experiences during our stay.

One full day will be devoted to a guided excursion to Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours. Few places in Africa are as spectacular as the point where towering sand dunes plunge directly into the Atlantic Ocean, and driving along the beach beneath these giant dunes remains one of Namibia's truly iconic experiences.

Naturally, excellent food also forms part of the itinerary. One evening we will return to The Tug, one of Swakopmund's best-known restaurants, while another dinner is already reserved at Ocean Cellar, where we have previously enjoyed some of the finest seafood anywhere in Southern Africa.


On the way to Sandwich Harbour,
Namibia 2024

Perhaps the most exciting experience of all, however, awaits from the air.

For the first time, we have chartered a Cessna scenic flight to experience Namibia from an entirely different perspective. During more than two hours in the air, the flight covers approximately 630 kilometres, revealing landscapes that few visitors ever see from the ground.

Flying above the towering dunes of the Namib Desert, the dramatic coastline of the Skeleton Coast, forgotten shipwrecks and vast empty wilderness promises to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that will remain with us forever.

If everything goes according to plan—and the landing is as smooth as the take-off—it may well become the highlight of the entire journey. You can read about the flight here (Sossusfly Excursion) and see a video here (Sossusfly on Yotube)


Source link airchraft fleet


NamibRand Nature Reserve, One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth, part 3

 

NamibRand Nature Reserve,
Namibia 2022

Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. Winding through endless desert plains beneath towering mountain ranges and colourful sand dunes, it is one of those roads where every bend reveals another breathtaking landscape.

Our destination is NamibRand Nature Reserve, which may well become the highlight of this journey.

Established in 1984, NamibRand is one of Africa's largest private nature reserves, covering more than 215,000 hectares along the eastern boundary of Namib-Naukluft National Park. Its commitment to conservation and remarkably low levels of light pollution earned it designation as one of the world's first International Dark Sky Reserves, making it one of the finest places on Earth to experience the night sky.

For the next three nights we have rented the beautifully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in complete isolation amidst the vast desert landscape. There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light—only silence, endless space and spectacular scenery.

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife, and we also hope to explore the property's excellent 4WD trails. If conditions allow, we may even climb one of the nearby mountains to enjoy panoramic views across this extraordinary landscape.

This will actually be our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

 

4 hours nature drive, NamibRand,
Namibia 2022

Over the years we have experienced the reserve in very different ways. We have camped at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (Camping 2024), walked the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (Tok Tokkie Trails 2022), and enjoyed the ultimate luxury at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality matches the spectacular surroundings (Wolwedans 2022).

During that stay, I also climbed Mount Loosberg, the highest peak within the reserve. It was one of the most demanding hikes I have undertaken in Namibia and remains an unforgettable experience. If you are considering following in my footsteps, I would strongly recommend reading my account first—it is certainly not a hike to underestimate (Trek Loosberg).

Fish River Canyon and Tsau Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park, part 2

 

 

Fish River Lodge pool,
Namibia, 2022.

After two nights in the Kalahari, we continue southwest towards one of Namibia's greatest natural wonders—Fish River Canyon.

For the next two nights we will stay at Fish River Canyon Lodge, which enjoys an extraordinary location right on the edge of the world's second-largest canyon. Few hotels can honestly claim to offer a true room with a view, but this is certainly one of them. Waking up to the vast canyon stretching endlessly across the landscape is an unforgettable experience.

The highlight of our stay will be the lodge's seven-hour Canyon Drive, descending from the rim to the canyon floor before climbing back to the top. We were fortunate enough to experience this excursion on a previous visit, and it remains one of the most memorable activities we have done anywhere in Namibia. We are therefore particularly excited to share it with my brother and sister-in-law.

For those preferring a more relaxed pace, the area also offers excellent walking trails along the canyon rim, while the swimming pool provides one of the finest views imaginable—even if the water is rather chilly during the Namibian winter!

Leaving Fish River Canyon behind, we follow the beautiful Arimas River Road (D463), a route we have driven once before and one that remains among our absolute favourites in Namibia. In our opinion, it rivals even the famous D707, which we will encounter later on this journey. The road winds through magnificent desert scenery with very little traffic, making the drive itself one of the day's highlights.


Klein Aus Vista, Eagels Nest cabin,
Namibia, 2022.

Our destination is Klein Aus Vista, where we have booked the unique self-catering stone cottage known as The Boulder for three nights. Built around an enormous granite boulder, the cottage blends beautifully into the surrounding landscape and offers complete peace and privacy on the edge of the former Sperrgebiet.

For more than a century, this vast area was closed to the public because of its rich diamond deposits. Today it forms Tsau Khaeb National Park, protecting one of the world's most important biodiversity hotspots, famous for its remarkable succulent flora and pristine desert ecosystems.

During our stay, we plan to explore several of the well-marked walking trails around Klein Aus Vista before making a day trip to the historic coastal town of Lüderitz and the haunting ghost town of Kolmanskop, where drifting desert sand slowly continues to reclaim the abandoned diamond-mining settlement. You can read about our previous visit in an earlier blog post (Kolmanskop 2022).

Windhoek and the Kalahari Desert, part 1


Collecting Hilux at Bushlore,
Windhoek, Namibia 2026

Our adventure naturally begins in Namibia's capital, Windhoek, where my wife and I arrive two days before the rest of the family. This gives us time to collect our trusted Toyota Hilux 4×4 from Bushlore Car Hire, a company we have now used several times. Their vehicles have always been impeccably prepared, and although they are not the cheapest option, the excellent service and reliability make the extra cost worthwhile.

Before the family arrives, we finally have the opportunity to spend some time exploring Windhoek itself. During previous trips we have simply stayed overnight before heading straight into the wilderness, so it will be nice to discover more of the city this time.

From Windhoek we head south into the Kalahari Desert, where we will spend two nights in one of the spectacular Dune Chalets at Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, perched high on top of the red sand dunes.


Dune Chalets at Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch,
Namibia, 2026


The reserve is home to an impressive variety of wildlife, including springbok, eland, kudu, giraffe, ostrich, numerous antelope species and even families of meerkats.

Our first evening will be spent on a Night Game Drive, which promises an adventurous safari through the mysterious atmosphere of the desert after dark. With a little luck we may encounter aardwolves, African wild cats, owls and other nocturnal creatures rarely seen during daylight hours.


Night Drive at Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2026.

The following day is intentionally left unhurried. We simply want to enjoy the beautiful surroundings before joining a cheetah feeding experience, an afternoon nature drive and, of course, a classic Namibian sundowner from the top of a red sand dune as the sun slowly disappears below the horizon.


Sunset, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2026



Our Family Adventure Begins: Namibia 2026 Central and Southern Highlights Trip

Blogger planning trip,
Olive Grove Guesthouse,
Windhoek, namibia 2026

If there is one country that keeps drawing us back, it is undoubtedly Namibia. By now, we have visited often enough to call it our favourite destination in Africa.

On our previous journey, we travelled with close friends on a quite extreeme expedition (Namibia 2024). This time, however, we have persuaded my brother and sister-in-law to join us for their very first visit to this remarkable country. Sharing highlights from a place that has given us so many unforgettable memories is perhaps even more rewarding than discovering somewhere new ourselves.

As always, I have thoroughly enjoyed planning every aspect of the trip. After many self-drive adventures across Southern Africa, researching routes, comparing lodges and piecing together the perfect itinerary has become part of the experience itself.

Highlights ininerary

For this journey, we have chosen to focus on the highlights of central and southern Namibia, revisiting several of our favourite places while allowing enough time to truly enjoy them. Instead of rushing from one attraction to the next, we have planned two or three nights at almost every destination—a style of travelling we have come to appreciate after our earlier visits.

Our route combines dramatic desert landscapes, towering red dunes, one of the world's largest canyons, spectacular mountain passes, the Skeleton Coast and the extraordinary granite formations of the Erongo Mountains, home to hundreds of ancient San rock art sites, fascinating wildlife and wonderful hiking trails.

Unlike many first-time visitors, we have decided to skip Etosha National Park and northern Namibia altogether. Those regions certainly deserve a journey of their own, but for this trip we prefer slower travel, spending quality time in each destination rather than covering as many kilometres as possible.

This is the itinerary for the first three weeks of what promises to be another unforgettable Namibian adventure.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour
Namibia 2025


The itinerary includes:

  • Windhoek
  • The Kalahari Desert
  • Fish River Canyon
  • Tsau Khaeb National Park and Lüderitz
  • NamibRand Nature Reserve
  • Sossusvlei region
  • Swakopmund and Sandwich Harbour
  • The Erongo Mountains
  • Okonjima Nature Reserve

In the following five posts, I will descripe the 2026 itinerary in more detals

  1. Windhoek and the Kalahari Desert (Part 1)
  2. Fish River Canyon and Tsau Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park (Part 2)
  3. NamibRand Nature Reserve, One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth (Part 3)
  4. Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast (Part 4)
  5. Erongo Mountains and Okonjima Nature Reserve (Part 5)