NamibRand Nature Reserve, part of the Namib Desert

Wild encounters in NamibRand: A sunset dune and an unexpected visitor

NamibRand Nature Reserve,
near Wolwedans Dune Camp, 
Namibia, 2022.

NamibRand Nature Reserve,
4 hours scenic drive, Namibia, 2024.

We are in the NamibRand Nature Reserve with our good friends from Denmark. It´s a vast private conservation area located in southwestern Namibia, near the Namib-Naukluft National Park. It spans approximately 200,000 hectares (2,150 km2), a little less than the size of the island of Funen in Denmark, making it one of the largest private nature reserves in Southern Africa. It was established in 1984 by the late J.A. Brückner.

Our friends on the sand track,
NamibRand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2024.

Expansive plains, towering mountain ranges,
iconic red sand dunes and blog authors boots!
NamibRand, Namibia 2024.

When we look around, we see a landscape characterized by expansive plains, towering mountain ranges, and iconic red sand dunes. The contrast between these features creates absolutely stunning vistas, particularly during sunrise and sunset. The reserve is part of the ancient Namib Desert, allegedly one of the oldest deserts in the world. It’s known for its unique and spectacular scenery, much like the rest of our favorite country, Namibia.

Sunrise from dune near our campsite "Venus",
NamibRand, Namibia, 2024.

We are on the lookout for oryx (gemsbok), springbok, zebras, and a variety of smaller mammals, reptiles, and insects. We remember to check for snakes and scorpions, especially after dark. The last time we were here was in 2022, when we walked through the desert for three days following the Tok Tokkie Trail (link post). At night, we slept outside in the "open-air theater" of the sand dunes with a spectacular view of the clear dark sky. In 2012, the NamibRand Nature Reserve was designated Africa's first International Dark Sky Reserve. This recognition highlights its exceptionally clear skies, making it a prime location for stargazing. One of the nights, two hyenas walked through our camp. Fortunately, they took no interest in us.

Night sky, Venus Campsite, NamibRand.
Photo taken by blogauthor on Iphone 14 max,
30 sec on tripod.

This time, we are sleeping on top of our Toyota Land Cruiser 79 4X4 camper, which we have hired through Bushlore (YouTube video of the Bushlore Land Cruiser). . We are "parked" in one of the three individual "Family Hideout Campsites," situated in a remote corner of the NamibRand Nature Reserve. It makes us feel a great sense of isolation, and we have completely exclusive access to the pristine desert environment around us. We feel very privileged and blessed to be alone in the middle of nowhere with such stunning views of the Namib Desert’s iconic landscapes. Around us are red sand dunes, rugged mountains, and vast plains.

Sunset over our camp at Venus Campsite,
NamibRand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2024. 

Late at night, we are sitting around the campfire with our friends. We listen to all the sounds and talk about nothing and everything. What a joy.

Night visitor at Venus Campsite,
NamibRand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2024.

The individual Family Hideout Campsites are equipped with all essential amenities. We are at Venus Campsite which is stunningly located between the dunes in NamibRand. There is a large wooden deck with a table and bench set where you can sit. Outside, there’s a large kitchen sink, and indoors, you’ll find a shower room, a toilet room, and two sinks. Nearby, there’s a grill area and direct access to the sand dunes. Right next to the campsite is the highest dune in the area, which you can climb to watch the sunset. It’s also close to a 4x4 track that you can drive yourself (remember to lower tire pressure, but it’s not difficult). From our camp, we have a direct view of the nearby waterhole!

Nice terrace, Venus Campsite, NamibRand,
Namibia, 2024.

Nearby sanddune, Venus Campsite. 
On the way to watch sunset with G&T.
NamibRand, Namibia, 2024.

The first evening was just about exciting enough! On the small step leading up to our terrace, there was a horned adder, a small but highly venomous snake known for its distinctive horns above the eyes. Thankfully, we didn’t step on it, and during the night, it slithered away. It was a good reminder of the wild nature surrounding us! It reminded us of our scorpion encounter a weeks before (link post)

Horned Adder on our terrasse!!
Venus Campsite, NamibRand, 
Namibia, 2024.

Namibia 2024 itinerary "Deserts and wilderness"

Proverb 

"Camp sites fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember sometimes a particular bend of your wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as if it were a significant landmark in your life"

 Karen Blixen (Isak Dinesen) in "Out of Africa", 1937

Me and my wifes campsite, Trekking on our own in
Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997. 

Daughter, son and wife at campsite,
Little Hunter´s Rest, Tiras Mountains,
Namibia, 2009.

Planning the trip is half the pleasure!

Over the years, it has become a beloved hobby to plan self-drive trips in Africa and write this travel blog. When I plan the trips, I am already in Africa! And I relive our many previous adventures! Such a joy.

Namibia 2024, planning phase
at home in Copenhagen

In the planning phase, I love to explore maps, guidebooks, the internet, FB travel groups, and TripAdvisor. Until recently, I used ExpertAfrica.com in the UK for bookings and car hire (and once used SafariDrive.com). These UK-based travel agents, especially ExpertAfrica, are perfect if you can accept their fine trip suggestions with just a few individual modifications. 

However, now that it’s our 6th trip to this part of Africa, and we have visited many places and have our own opinions on where to stay and go, I found it more useful to book the Toyota Land Cruiser directly through Bushlore.com and use their bookings department in Johannesburg for securing campsites, lodges, etc., based on our own itinerary. In addition, I booked directly on my own where there was a good online booking system such as "Nightsbridge." This has worked very well—the final test will, of course, be when we arrive in Windhoek in September!

Why this "deserts and wilderness route"? 

This time, the focus is camping in deserts and wilderness, venturing from southeast to northwest! It's an unusual route reflecting that it’s our 6th trip to Namibia and the fact that we love remote desert landscapes! Also, the route reflects that we have to meet our Danish friends at Bagatelle Guest Farm south of Windhoek 14 days after our own arrival. This will be their first trip to Africa! Furthermore, we prebooked the Nossob 4x4 Wilderness Trail one year in advance (it gets sold out immediately after bookings opens) as it has been a long dream of mine to visit Kgalagadi again after a fantastic experience with my son years ago (Link to father son trip) and to show my wife this extraordinary national park the size of Denmark. Going south from Windhoek and then north again towards Windhoek allows us to try some special tracks such as D1033 and perhaps D1022! You can read our report from these tracks later on this blog!

Our general travel itinerary 2024:

• Towards Kalahari Desert / Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park on: "4WD adventure"
• Camping in NamibRand Nature Reserve: "Desert and stargazing"
• Through Namib-Naukluft National Park to Swakopmund: "two mountain passes and the coast"
• Through Erongo and Kunene regions & exploring Etendeka Plateau: "Volcanic rocks & flat-topped mountains"
• Remote Kunene/Kaokoland wilderness days: "Explooring Africa´s last wilderness"
• Along Cunene River on the Angolan border: "The green oasis"
• Etosha National Park and Erongo Mountains luxury finish: "The big five & gastronomy"

Specific stops and links to homepages (6 weeks trip):

Route on TripAdvisor

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, campsite, 2 nights Bagatelle
2. Kalahari Game Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Kalahari GL
3. Mata-Mata Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
4. Kalahari Tented Camp, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
5. Nossob Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, camping, 3 nights Nossob 4x4-trail
7. Twee Rivieren Restcamp, camping, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
8. Kalahari Game Lodge, 1 night Kalahari GL
9.  Bagatelle Kalahari Botique Farmhouse, 1 night (join friends from DK) Bagatelle Farmhouse
10. Namib Rand Family Hideout, campsite, 3 nights Family hideout camping
11. Desert Breeze Lodge, villa, 3 nights Desert Breeze
12. Madisa Camp, campsite, 1 night Madisa Camp
13.  Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, open air, 2 nights Etendeka Trail
14.  Etendeka Mountain Camp, main camp, 1 night Etendeka Main Camp
15. Khowarib Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Khowarib Lodge Campsite
16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp, campsite, 2 nights Puros Bush Lodge
17. Etambura Camp, 3 nights Etaambura Camp
18. Opuwo Country Lodge, 1 night Opuwo Lodge
19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp, campsite, 2 nights Omarunga EP Camp
20. Camp Cornie, campsite, 2 nights Camp Cornie
21. Dolomite Camp, 2 nights Etosha Dolomite Camp
22. Omurenga Lodge, 2 nights Omurenga
23. River Crossing Lodge, 1 night Rivercrossing

Some potential activities the different places:

In the following, some of the special activities we plan to do some of the different places besides the usual very nice scenic- and game drives and sundowners, the number refers to the list above.

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: a) View the spectacular southern hemisphere sky from observatory with a state-of-the-art computer-controlled telescope, b) Cheetah Excursion to get up close and personal with the fastest land animal on Earth.

Sundowner drive, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2009

2. Kalahari Game Lodge: Try their 4×4 self-drive trail in Kalahari on a 3500ha portion of the lodge.

6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail: Challenging 4x4 driving on a small track through the Kalahari dunes in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks, covering a total distance of 214km, sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights. See my specific posts about the trail and our experiences during the trip later. 

Video when my son and I drove from Gharagab Wilderness camp on the exit track:

9. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: See 1. above.

10. Namib Rand Family Hideout: a) Experience the NamibRand Nature Reserve characterized by expansive plains, towering mountain ranges, and iconic red sand dunes sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights and stargazing, b) Visits Duwisib Castle 80 km away, c) Visit Sossusvlei, d) Try 4WD track. See my specific posts about NamibRand and our experiences during the trip later.

11. Desert Breeze Lodge / Swakopmund: a)  Sandwich Harbour 4x4 drive, see later post, b) Walwis Bay Catamaran Tour, c) The Tug (restaurant), d) Ocean Cellar (restaurant), e) Exploore Swakop.

12. Madisa Camp: Track elephants.

Sundowner near Madisa Camp,
Namibia, 2012

13. Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail: See our blog from previous visit Trail report

Etendeka Mountain Camp, "tents" in distance,
Namibia, 2019

14. Etendeka Mountain Camp: Stargazing through the telescope.

 Etendeka Mountain Camp,
Namibia, 2009

15. Khowarib Lodge: a) Drive to Ongongo Hot Spring for swim, b) Visit Sesfontein. See our blog from previous visit Report Khowarib  

Me & son, Ongongo Hot Spring,
Namibia, 2012

16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp: a) Visiting Himba´s, see our blog from previous visit Puros Himba visit, b) Drive along Hoarusip River to Puros Canyon, see our blog from previous visit including elephant encounter(!) Report from Puros Canyon 

View point near Puros.
Me checking the road ahead of us! 
Namibia, 2012 

17. Etambura Camp: a) Enjoy this very special place, read about our previous visit Etaambura report, b) Visit Himba´s Report previous Himba visit, c) Extreeme 4WD driving to Marienfluss, read report from previous trip Report Marienfluss Drive. 

Video from the road from Puros to Etambura, Namibia, 2012: 

18. Opuwo Country Lodge: buy new supplies form trip to north.

19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp: a) Visit Epupa Falls, read our previous report Epupa Flls Oasis, b) Go on a rafting trip, read our previous report Riverrafting Kunene

Riverrafting Cunene River,
Namibia, 2019

20. Camp Cornie: a) Canoeing the Kunene, b) Fishing the Kunene.

21. Dolomite Camp:  Night drive.

Our cabin, Dolomite Camp,
Etosha, Namibia, 2012

22. Omurenga Lodge: Visit Kristall Kellerei, the oldest wine farm in Namibia Kristall Kellerei