Monday 12 August 2019

Epupa Falls, a green oasis in Kaokoland

Kaokoland and Epupa Falls, the extreme northwest Namibia


The Epupa waterfalls are series of falls extend over a wide area.
There are giant baobab trees and palm trees everywhere,
surrounded by the dry Kaokoland and Zebra mountains, Namibia 2019

From Opuwo to Epupa Falls 180 kms along C43 

We leave Opuwo, the "Wild West" town in the northwest

We leave Opuwo, not a place we will miss. We are on our way to Epupa Falls. Opuwo seems to be very affected by the drought in Namibia. It is a small and uninspiring town in the middle of the bush, but you can find fuel, supplies and banks. It feels like "Wild West". At the gas station in the middle of the city, street children and poor people come begging. The kids "wash your car" whether you want it or not and ask for payment. You have to look very carefully for your belongings, but they do not seem threatening. The gas station staff seems to have giving up. We hope the coming rainy season will be a good one. There is a desperate need of water in the area, especially for goats and cattle that are important in this area.

We stayed at Opuwo Country Lodge, which also seemed affected by the harsh conditions. Dust everywhere. The road up to the lodge hilltop looked like something that was a lie. It was in a very bad condition surrounded by dead trees and shrubs. Strange afterwards to relax on the edge of the infinity pool afterwards in this troubled city.

Gas station in the middle of Opuwo
Street kids and poor people come begging
Namibia 2019

Opuwo, Namibia 2019

North towards Epupa Falls

We drive from Opuwo via C43. We head for Okongwati. As there are no likely supplies of diesel before Ruacana several days ahead, we have refueled the car completely with 80 liters of diesel. Also, we bring plenty of liquid.

We drive cautiously, it´s very far between inhabited areas and you pay on the spot for any errors. We are reminded by the rusty car wrecks on both sides off the road. A moment of inattention, and you might be heading over the side of the dirt road or slip out in a sandy curve. Then, you might easily hit the banks of a (dry) stream under the road or drive down a slope overturning the car. If so, you have to wait for hours for the next car to pass (given you are alive).

One of the few "towns" we pass 

The landscape changes 

As you head north, the landscape changes. You see scattered Himba towns in the characteristic red colors and round enclosures for the animals. From Okongwati to Epupa Falls, there are 73 kilometers. You drive through the Zebra Mountains, which rises on the right. Now, there are more trees, even some giant baobabs.

We are approaching Kunene River. We had heard that we should not expect to much of the Epupa Falls, which are located in the northernmost part of Namibia on the border to Angola.

This is completely wrong. Suddenly, as we drive around the last hilltop, we see a very green wide line of palm trees in the landscape.

Suddenly, we see a very green line of palm trees in the landscape
Kunene River, Namibia 2019 

It seems very dramatic after the long trip through the dry countryside and mountains. This must be as reaching an oasis in the desert after days of hiking? The life-giving water. The Kunene River flows to the South Atlantic Sea from Ruacana Falls Hydroelectric Power Station and for 300 kms. and forms the (now) peaceful border with Angola.

Father, son and daughter at Epupa Falls viewpoint
Namibia 2019

The waterfalls

The waterfalls themselves are a series of falls, the highest 32 meters, which extend over a very large approx. 500 meters wide area. There are giant baobab trees and palm trees everywhere, surrounded by the dry Kaokoland and Zebra mountains.

Epupa Falls, Namibia 2019

It is a good experience to walk around the area by the falls. We ended the trip by driving up to the Epupa Falls viewpoint and enjoying the sunset view. A this spot, you get a fantastic overview of the whole area. People are very welcoming and it seems safe.

Me taking photos at Epupa Falls Viewpoint
Namibia 2019

We live at the nice Epupa Camp approx. 700 meters above the waterfalls. This place is clearly recommended.

The cottage, Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

The cottage, Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

The swimmingpool next to Kunene River,
Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

View from Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

Enterence, Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019


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