Etosha, the great dusty place!

Etosha, one of Africa's great national parks

C35, good tar road from Ruacana to Etosha, Namibia 2019

We head for Etosha, which is one of Africa's great national parks. The central feature is the huge Etosha Pan, which is a huge depression that becomes a lake during the rare summers with big rainfall, although the water rarely gets more than a few centimeters deep. This time, there is absolutely no signs of water! The driest Etosha we have ever seen (also there in 2009 and 2012).

Etosha 2019, dust everywhere. Namibia 2019

Dust everywhere

Whenever a car passes, the dust hangs in the air for many minutes. The dust creaps everywhere. All trees and shrubs look dead. The only visible colors are brown and khaki. However, it is easy to spot wildlife. All animals are near the waterholes with artificial pumps. Etosha really needs a good rain soon.

Normally, Etosta is translated to “great white place” or “place of emptiness”. This year, "the great dusty place" would be more appropriate. We are glad we did not prioritize Etosha this year because we have been here twice before.

Etosha, “place of emptiness”, Namibia 2019

Etosha near Anderson Gate, Namibia 2019

Ongava Lodge

Before entering Etosha through the Andersson Gate, we stayed at Ongava Lodge in Ongava Game Reserve. It is a lovely luxury lodge, located on a small cliff top overlooking the bush. The thatched cottages have unobstructed views of the game reserve and a local water hole. From our cabin we could see the animals coming and going from the watering hole. Just when we arrived there was a large giraffe, shortly after an elephant.

It is crazy to be able to watch the animals directly from our own private terrace - or the outdoor shower. There is no fence around the lodge and at night an armed guard follows one back to the cabin from to the living area / restaurant.

Ongava Lodge, view from room!
 Animals coming and going from the watering hole
Namibia 2019

Ongava Lodge was an expensive and lovely place, though not a very personal lodge. The food and service did not quite live up to the high price. But with a location just outside Etosha's gate, that's probably the price you have to pay. We had a good time at this lodge.