Serious river rafting at Kunene River Lodge
Do not do as we did!
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| River rafting, Kunene River Lodge Kunene River, Namibia 2019 |
Just like me, my adult daugther likes challenges. Why not go for river rafting again together, but now in canoes for a new experience? This would be our second river rafting trip on Kunene River (link). After the Epupa Camp experience, we did not really believe it would be that challenging to raft again. Here we made a big mistake !!
Beforehand, we did try to ask about the trip, but it was impossible to find out exactly how challenging this part of Kunene River would be? Fortunately, I had some experience sailing canoes in Sweden in calm waters ;-)
We drove approx. 7 kms. upriver from Kunene River Lodge to the launching point on the beach next to the river. Now, we got the first indication, that this was serious business! Unlike our previous trip, our life jackets and helmets were checked carefully. All straps were tightened extra by the guides. Various techniques how to avoid capsizing were explained including different rescue procedures. Finally, we (I) signed a contract stating that everything was at our own risk.
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| Kunene River Lodge launching point on the beach Namibia 2019 |
We were ready to go. Hitting the water, we got the next information:
"There is a waterfall ahead" said our guide, and continued "aim for the rocks left to the fall. Don´t go through. It´s a three meter drop, you won´t make it!"It turned out the first "rapid" was a waterfall! We avoided the strong current and managed to get our canoe to the rocks on the left hand site. Then, we jumped from rock to rock in the difficult terrain trying to balance the heavy, on land impractical, canoe. The whole situation seemed pretty crazy. The water flowed powerfully just to the right over the edge and we became even more alert. It should turn out to be even worse few minutes later!
We stopped at a 2.5 meter long drop where the rock sloped almost vertically down to a pool just below the waterfall. The noise from the water was deafening. Seemed to be a dead end.
The guide explained:
"Just jump into the canoe and I will push it over the edge"My daughter and I watched each other with disbelief, the guide continued:
"Insert your feet into the straps and lean back, otherwise you fall out".I have a hard time seeing how not to fall out when pushed over the edge - straps or not!
"Ready?"Asked the guide.
"No!"We answered unanimously
Then the guide pushed us over the edge with a big confident smile. The front of the canoe dived nearly vertical into the water 2.5 meters below. We leaned back everything we had learned (in theory). When we hit the water, we got completely wet, but half way into the water, the canoe popped up like a cork plug. We were pretty excited we didn't fall out.
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| Then the guide pushed us over the edge with a big confident smile We leaned back everything we had learned (in theory) Kunene River Lodge, Namibia 2019 |
We looked at each other and thought tacitly "what have we been up to?" I remembered the big Nile crocodiles further down the river. Supposedly, they don´t come up to the "white water" in this part of the river, but are they aware of this rule??
The guide informed us, that there would be five rapids before the lunch break, after which we could consider whether we would like to try the last rapid - or just walk around? Hmm?
Down stream we went. We paddled in a canyon between rocks. Before each new rapid, our guide instructed us on the best route. One of the two guides (they were father and son) paddled in advance with our camera. Then we followed the other guide through the rapids.
It was great fun and just the right level of challenge. It seemed reasonably safe after the surprisingly steep start. If we fell out (we did not), we would quickly reach a quieter area just after the rapis, hopefully without any Nile crocodiles.
After the first five rapids and exciting paddling, it was time for lunch. Our guide noticed, the water level was decreasing
"I suggest we take the last rapid before lunch?"He said.
We had become quite brave after the first five rapids, which we had managed well without any fuss.
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| The first five rapids, we managed well without any fuss Kunene River, Namibia 2019 |
My brave daughter asked.
"Why not take the last one?"
It seemed quite appealing now that we had gained "great experience" ;-)
As we approached the last rapid, the noise from the water became quite loud. We paddled to some rocks to the left of the last rapid. Our guide wanted to show us the rapid before entering.
It looked very wild!!. My first thought was "we don't do that", "it's not worth it".
Then the guide explained everything about sailing routes through the rapid including which way to lean. He continued:
"You want to hit the waterfall with front of the canoe, not sideways! As soon as you hit the bottom, you have to lean to the left not to fall out of the canoe on the right side"I should have listened better, I can reveal already!
The next point was to avoid the large rock in the middle of the route below the waterfall.
"If you fall out of a canoe and the canoe is on one side of the stone and you are on the other, let go! You don´t want to shrug off the shoulder joint!"It sounded like an experience from a previous trip.
"If you are in the water, hold your legs together. I probably don't need to explain why?"He continued.
No doubt this is the point where we should have stopped!
"Shall we do it?"My daughter asked hesitantly.
"Let´s do it"I responded.
Not all parental advices are good.
We took off above the waterfall. The current gripped the canoe forcefully. I managed to get the front end down through the waterfall in the very last minute. When we hit the bottom of the waterfall, the canoe keeled dangerously to the right (as we were warned), and we were heading for the big rock!
I was not leaning to the left as recommended! See Video ...
Suddenly, I'm under the Kunene River, swirling around completely out of control. I can glimpse light from the surface, but I can't get up! I remember thinking:
"I wonder how long it will take before I pop up, before or after I need to breathe?"I think my heart rate is at 180! Finally, I surface. I cough up river water for a long time. It also comes out of the nose. I see the canoe with the guide is to my right and grab the rescue line.
As a infectious disease specialist, I think of all the diseases I can get through the unclean river water in Africa. The first thing that hit my mind is Naegleria fowleri, a brain-eating amoeba that infects people when contaminated water enters the body through the nose. This typically occurs when people go swimming or diving in warm freshwater places, like lakes and rivers! The Naegleria fowleri ameba then travels up the nose to the brain where it destroys the brain tissue. There is no cure.
Then I think leptospirosis, a bacterial disease that is caused by the bacteria Leptospira. It is mainly spread by contact with water (or soil) contaminated by the urine of infected animals. Persons can get the disease by swimming or wading in fresh unchlorinated water contaminated with animal urine!
Finally, I think Bilharziosis. It is a disease caused by parasitic flatworms called schistosomes. The urinary tract or the intestines may be infected, and symptoms include abdominal pain, diarrhea, bloody stool, or blood in the urine. Those who have been infected for a long time may experience liver damage, kidney failure, infertility, or bladder cancer. The disease is spread by contact with fresh water contaminated with the parasites! I am glad to remember, that white water and lack of vegetation is not optimal for the parasite. I can probably exclude that option.
"Are you OK?"Ask the guide.
"I'm fine"I reply. I'm alive, and my daughter managed the trip without problems. Better me than her!
Later that evening, our hosts at Kunene River Lodge told us that guides also fall into the water in this rapid from time to time - and they are very experienced.
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