Saturday, 3 August 2019

Driving along Skeleton Coast


Skeleton coast got its name from the ships and unlucky sailors who perished after being shipwrecked on the barren shores


The fishing trawler, that was sold as scrap metal to an Indian company,
got stranded after it came loose from its towing line
shortly after it left Walvis Bay

Zeila stranded 25 August 2008 early morning 14km south of Henties Bay
It´s easy to visit, our daughter inspecting the wreck from safe distance

Even if the sailors survived the shipwreck, their problems had only just begun

Treacherous fogs and strong currents forced many ships onto the hidden and ever changing sandbanks underwater at Skeleton Coast. Even if the sailors survived, their problems had only just begun. The coast is a barren line between the cold pounding ocean and the desert interior.

Planned route from Swakopmund to Terrace Bay
along Skeleton Coast, 360 kms (route details)

We are heading for Terrace Bay, the furthest north visitors can drive on the coast
The road we follow, C34, runs all the way from Swakop to our destination at Terrace Bay. It´s nearly parallel to the ocean and seems continuing forever with sea on one side and clay or sand on the other. After approx. 250 kms, the endless gravel and rock surroundings are released by the northern dune sea.

Reaching the nothern dune sea, on C34 near Uniab dry riverbed 

Driving along the coast, we pass the main rivers starting far indland in the mountains. Most of the year, they are just dry sand rivers only occasionally flowing overland for a few hundred meters before they vanish from the surface into the sand again. From south, we pass the riverbeds of; Omaruru, Ugab, Huab, Koichab, and Uniab, before reaching Terrace Bay. In the river beds you can encounter gemsbok, kudu, springbok, steenbok, jackals, genets, and small wild cats. At rare occations hyena, giraffe, zebra, lion, and cheetah.

We saw many jackals, this one just after Ugab River Gate
entering Skeleton Coast Park

Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Skeleton Coast Park gate,  the skeleton warns you that is very far to help.!
Be prepared before driving in. and always stick to the track
Avoiding loose sand (se next postings!)

In 2012, we drove west from Purros towards the Skeleton Coast along the dry Hoarusib riverbed, where we encountered a wild elephant trying to attach the car (link). It´s indeed fantastic to se the wildlife on first hand - and quite surreal - in this deserted area, but it´s OK without desert adapted elephants chasing our car this time.

Terrace Bay

Terrace Bay, our final destination, is a desolate spot, slightly surreal. It´s like reaching a base on planet Mars (not that I have tried). Originally build as a mining venture, it´s lone palms and simple buildings loom out of the mist. Fishermen come here all year. There is a "petrol station", probably the most lonely in Namibia, and Terrace Bay Camp resort, with functional but very simple bungalows. the staff are friendly and the "restaurant" very fine given the extreme location. It whole place reminds me of some of the places I have seen in Greenland. 

The direct view from our very large beach chalet
Don´t go swimming (it´s very cold anyway)

Our very private villa!

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