A secret gem: Arimas River Road (D463 from vest / C13)

D463 "Arimas River Road" start

D463 from C13 (vest) is a secret gem!

Namibia is the perfect country for awesome road trips! Often visitors report the most beautiful roads of Namibia that you really shouldn’t miss. We have already had the privilege to try many of these visiting Namibia five times. 

Now we will tell you a secret! On this trip, we found the most fantastic road that we have never heard of before! Let's call it "Arimas River Road". It connects the “Diamond Sperrgebiet” east border and the Fish River Canyon´s western parts. A secret gem!

D463´s start from C43 - expect 3 fantastic hours
(Without punctures)

When we stayed at Eagle's Nest in Klein Aus Vista (link), our next destination was Fish River Lodge (link) on the western rim of Fish River Valley. From the travel agency, we were advised to drive along the large paved B4 road towards Keetmanshoop, and then drive south on the D463 to reach the track towards Fish River Lodge. However, at the Tracks4Africa app (highly recommended), we could spot another tempting route! 

• Instead, take D463 from C13 (the road to Rosh Pinah) 👍
• Also possible other way around; D463 from the entrance to Fish River Lodge track to C13 
• However, the part of D463 from the entrance to Fish River Lodge track to B4 is not very interesting

Tracks¤Africa App
Take D463 from C13

We ask about the road conditions at the reception in the Desert Horse Inn Lodge. We are advised it should be possible as long as there is no rain, as we have to cross several riverbeds. We inform the reception that we will take this route instead thus they can send a rescue party if we do not show up at Fish River Lodge. It turnes out to be one of the most stunningly beautiful routes we've driven on five trips to Namibia!

The start from Klein Aus Vista towards Rosh Pinah by C13 is magnificent with a fantastic view of the “Diamond Sperrgebiet” on the right hand.

C13 with “Diamond Sperrgebiet” on the right hand.

After we turn off the D463 towards east, we only meet one car for the next 3 hours!! In the beginning, we have beautiful mountains on our left hand. (Mt Witputkuppe 1351m & Mt. Nasepberg). Also, we see the most wonderful mountain formations with many different layers in the rocks. 

D463

D463, a break, what a view!

We pass some farm gates, and now, the road follows the Arimas Riverbed, which we cross several times. It is so beautiful and endlessly desolate! 

Dry riverbed, Arimas River

After two hours' drive along D463, we cross two larger - but fine - passages of the river, where it widens and there is more vegetation. 

D463, larger riverbed

This could be challenging places if there was water! Finally, we reach the D459, which we pass on our left hand on the way to the beginning of the track to Fish River Lodge. After D459 (still on D463), we pass the very beautiful "Konkiep River Crossing", where there is actually reed forest (!)

D463 in the distance

We are relieved when we finally reach the entrance gate at the track to Fish River Lodge (and 45 mins. more interesting drive). 

Track to Fish River Lodge from D463

It has been a very desolate absolutely stunningly beautiful tour!

Enjoying the surroundings D463 

Word of warning:

• Very desolate, far from help
• No cell phone reception
• 4WD is recommended (but unproblematic for us in dry weather)
• Bring plenty of water (at least 5L per person)

Other roads in Namibia we loved, read our posts:

• C34 driving along Skeleton Coast (link)  
• D3700 along Kunene River (link)
• Into Damaraland along C39 (link)
• C43 towards Sesfontain (link)
• From Orupempe into Marienfluss (link in Danish)

Terrace Bay Skeleton Coast; another planet?

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet

Terrace Bay next morning, another planet?
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Leaving Terrace Bay next morning
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Still on Skeleton Coast, after our "unlucky episode" trapped in a salt pan near the Winston Wreck (!) (link), we reach Terrace Bay Restcamp after the longest possible drive north along Skeleton Coast. Indeed, Terrace Bay is the furthest north that visitors can drive along C34 on the coast from the Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park.

Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park
166 kms before Terrace Bay

Driving along Skeleton Coast at night

When we passed Torra Bay, where there were what looked as some abandoned shacks, it had become dark. Normally, you should not drive in Skeleton Coast Park in darkness, as it is an incredibly deserted area with wild animals and no help anywhere nearby, but the friendly staff at the Ugab River Gate, who helped us save the car, allowed us to drive into the National Park in order to reach our destination (and prepaid booking) at Terrace Bay if we promised to drive directly to Terrace Bay with no deviations and stick to the main track. Also, we promised the kind staff at Ugab River Gate to call when we arrived. They wanted to make sure we were safe and had no problems with the car.

We drove very carefully, but determined, all 166 kms. It is not an area where you want the car to breakdown. We saw many jackals, but no lions - they rarely walk all the way to the coast.

We didn't want to visit more shipwrecks down tracks off the main track!!

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet. Everything seemed abandoned. The main reception was closed and we couldn't find any people or staff. At least, thjere were signs of civilization. As we were driving around for a while in this dark and deserted lunar base, we saw light in the distance. We found a way to the light. It turned out to be the restaurant (basic cafeteria), where we were greeted by friendly staff. No one had missed us.

We got our huge Beach Chatlet with five bedrooms, three bathrooms, large living room and kitchen. Completely surreal. Everything was simple but functional and clean. You sense it was originally built for the mine staff until the goverment took over in 1977.

We slept exceptionally well that night

We slept exceptionally well that night. The roaring sea and the wind did not keep us awake. Surprisingly, I did not dream of being dragged into quicksand

Our garden in the desert in the middle of nowhere
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our house (beach chalet)
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our sleeping quarters, simple but clean
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Heading for breakfast in the "restaurant"
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our kitchen in the beach chalet
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Driving along Skeleton Coast

Skeleton coast got its name from the ships and unlucky sailors who perished after being shipwrecked on the barren shores

The fishing trawler, that was sold as scrap metal to an Indian company,
got stranded after it came loose from its towing line
shortly after it left Walvis Bay

Zeila stranded 25 August 2008 early morning 14km south of Henties Bay
It´s easy to visit, our daughter inspecting the wreck from safe distance

Even if the sailors survived the shipwreck, their problems had only just begun

Treacherous fogs and strong currents forced many ships onto the hidden and ever changing sandbanks underwater at Skeleton Coast. Even if the sailors survived, their problems had only just begun. The coast is a barren line between the cold pounding ocean and the desert interior.

Planned route from Swakopmund to Terrace Bay
along Skeleton Coast, 360 kms (route details)

We are heading for Terrace Bay, the furthest north visitors can drive on the coast
The road we follow, C34, runs all the way from Swakop to our destination at Terrace Bay. It´s nearly parallel to the ocean and seems continuing forever with sea on one side and clay or sand on the other. After approx. 250 kms, the endless gravel and rock surroundings are released by the northern dune sea.

Reaching the nothern dune sea, on C34 near Uniab dry riverbed 

Driving along the coast, we pass the main rivers starting far indland in the mountains. Most of the year, they are just dry sand rivers only occasionally flowing overland for a few hundred meters before they vanish from the surface into the sand again. From south, we pass the riverbeds of; Omaruru, Ugab, Huab, Koichab, and Uniab, before reaching Terrace Bay. In the river beds you can encounter gemsbok, kudu, springbok, steenbok, jackals, genets, and small wild cats. At rare occations hyena, giraffe, zebra, lion, and cheetah.

We saw many jackals, this one just after Ugab River Gate
entering Skeleton Coast Park

Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Skeleton Coast Park gate,  the skeleton warns you that is very far to help.!
Be prepared before driving in. and always stick to the track
Avoiding loose sand (se next postings!)

In 2012, we drove west from Purros towards the Skeleton Coast along the dry Hoarusib riverbed, where we encountered a wild elephant trying to attach the car (link). It´s indeed fantastic to se the wildlife on first hand - and quite surreal - in this deserted area, but it´s OK without desert adapted elephants chasing our car this time.

Terrace Bay

Terrace Bay, our final destination, is a desolate spot, slightly surreal. It´s like reaching a base on planet Mars (not that I have tried). Originally build as a mining venture, it´s lone palms and simple buildings loom out of the mist. Fishermen come here all year. There is a "petrol station", probably the most lonely in Namibia, and Terrace Bay Camp resort, with functional but very simple bungalows. the staff are friendly and the "restaurant" very fine given the extreme location. It whole place reminds me of some of the places I have seen in Greenland. 

The direct view from our very large beach chalet
Don´t go swimming (it´s very cold anyway)

Our very private villa!