Terrace Bay Skeleton Coast; another planet?

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet

Terrace Bay next morning, another planet?
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Leaving Terrace Bay next morning
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Still on Skeleton Coast, after our "unlucky episode" trapped in a salt pan near the Winston Wreck (!) (link), we reach Terrace Bay Restcamp after the longest possible drive north along Skeleton Coast. Indeed, Terrace Bay is the furthest north that visitors can drive along C34 on the coast from the Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park.

Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park
166 kms before Terrace Bay

Driving along Skeleton Coast at night

When we passed Torra Bay, where there were what looked as some abandoned shacks, it had become dark. Normally, you should not drive in Skeleton Coast Park in darkness, as it is an incredibly deserted area with wild animals and no help anywhere nearby, but the friendly staff at the Ugab River Gate, who helped us save the car, allowed us to drive into the National Park in order to reach our destination (and prepaid booking) at Terrace Bay if we promised to drive directly to Terrace Bay with no deviations and stick to the main track. Also, we promised the kind staff at Ugab River Gate to call when we arrived. They wanted to make sure we were safe and had no problems with the car.

We drove very carefully, but determined, all 166 kms. It is not an area where you want the car to breakdown. We saw many jackals, but no lions - they rarely walk all the way to the coast.

We didn't want to visit more shipwrecks down tracks off the main track!!

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet. Everything seemed abandoned. The main reception was closed and we couldn't find any people or staff. At least, thjere were signs of civilization. As we were driving around for a while in this dark and deserted lunar base, we saw light in the distance. We found a way to the light. It turned out to be the restaurant (basic cafeteria), where we were greeted by friendly staff. No one had missed us.

We got our huge Beach Chatlet with five bedrooms, three bathrooms, large living room and kitchen. Completely surreal. Everything was simple but functional and clean. You sense it was originally built for the mine staff until the goverment took over in 1977.

We slept exceptionally well that night

We slept exceptionally well that night. The roaring sea and the wind did not keep us awake. Surprisingly, I did not dream of being dragged into quicksand

Our garden in the desert in the middle of nowhere
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our house (beach chalet)
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our sleeping quarters, simple but clean
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Heading for breakfast in the "restaurant"
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our kitchen in the beach chalet
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Into Damaraland along C39

Leaving the fascinating Skeleton Coast Park

C34 on left hand, we are leaving the coast for new adventures

Our next destination is Palmwag Lodge. We leave Terrace Bay after breakfast. We are really looking forward to the next 200 kms journey inland heading east along the remote and very beautiful C34. We hit C34 just after passing Torra Bay. It still looks like we are on another planet.

The planned route from Terrace Bay to Palmwag Lodge (link)

Along the way, we pass large welwitschia colonies. Welwitschias are weird desert plants that can reach between 1000 and 1500 years of age. They look like something that has been run over by dozens of 4x4 cars (source)!

Thirty-nine kms later, we leave Skeleton Coast Park at Springbokwasser Gate.

Welwitschia, a weird desert plant. Can reach between 1000 and 1500 years.
Looks like something that has just been run over by dozens of 4x4 cars

Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

In Skeleton Coast Park, just before Springbokwasser Gate

C34 and Euphorbia damarana bush to the right

Climbing deaper into Damaraland´s mountains, we also see huge Euphorbia damarana bushes, one of the most toxic plants in Namibia which can be found on rocky slopes, in river beds and on plains. Just 10 kms before Springbokwasser Gate, we hit the dry riverbed of Koichab (Koigab) River and drive along it for many kms into it´s catchment area. This river only rarely floods. About 15 kms before the small settlement of Bergsig, we swap to Springbok River and follow it north towards Palmwag. From Bergsig to Palmwag, the road is very corrugated. Later on we discover a puncture of right back wheel, fortunately just a very slow one we can get repaired at Palmwag tyre shop 40 kms ahead

Passing Bergsig, we clearly remember our trip in 2012 (link): Suddenly, all electrical equipment in our Land Rover Defender failed just outside Bergsig (I am not a fan of Land Rovers - had three breakdowns at critical places). We had to get help from the kind staff at Palmwag Lodge via our satellite phone. Fortunately, we are not driving a Land Rover this time, especially since we have no satelite phone (but plenty of water, tent and sleeping bags).

A break in the desert, C34, Namibia 2019

We reach Palmwag after clearing the vetenary fence

"Tent 23 at river the bed", Palmwag Lodge, Namibia 2019

Bathroom tent 23, Palmwag Lodge, Namibia