Showing posts with label Skeleton Coast. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Skeleton Coast. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 August 2026

Sossusfly – Namibia from Above


We are heading on a scenic flight
 "Sossusfly"
Namibia 2026

Namibia from Above

This time, we have decided to see Namibia from a rather different perspective and booked perhaps the most popular scenic flight in Namibia, the SOSSUSfly, also known as the “Sossus Scenic”.

We are going to fly for approximately 2 hours and 10 minutes, covering around 630 kilometres in our own chartered Cessna 210. According to Sossusfly, less than 20% of the route can be seen when travelling by road.

We have already driven an enormous amount in Namibia — probably more than 30,000 kilometres over our various journeys — reaching some of the most remote corners of the country. But this flight will take us over vast areas of the ancient Namib Desert that are far beyond any drivable route, as well as the southern Skeleton Coast, much of which is normally difficult to access.

One of the most exciting aspects is that we will follow the green ribbon of the Kuiseb River inland towards the Kuiseb Canyon, before crossing the desert at very low altitude and heading north along the Atlantic coast.

We visited Sandwich Harbour from the ground only yesterday (link).

Today, we are going to see it from above.


Before Take-off


Pre flight breefing
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026

Our route, the red one
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026


We are collected in the late afternoon from our chalets at The Stiltz and driven to Swakopmund Airport.

All four of us are excited. After all, it is not every day that you get to undertake an adventure like this.

At the airport there is plenty of activity. Small aircraft are landing and taking off, while some passengers are preparing for skydiving.

I notice our pilot checking the fuel quantity in both wings.

He remembers to screw the fuel caps back on.

Good start!


We are ready for depature
Namibia 2026


Before departure, we have provided our individual weights and signed a declaration which, I suspect, probably exempts the airline from almost everything that could possibly happen to us. ;-)

There is also one final opportunity for a biological break.

There is no toilet on this little aircraft, and certainly no stewardess.

Although, technically, I suppose I am the stewardess.

I am sitting at the back, where I can reach the small luggage compartment containing our drinks and other essentials.

My wife and sister-in-law occupy the middle seats, while my brother gets the prestigious seat next to the pilot.


My brother in copilot seat
Namibia 2026 


He has everything necessary to fly the aircraft.

He just doesn't know what any of it does.

We hope he learns quickly in the event of an emergency!


Following the Kuiseb River


Below us is the Kuiseb River,
Namibia 2026


We take off smoothly from Swakopmund and head towards Walvis Bay before turning inland, following much the same route as the one we drove two days earlier.

Below us is the Kuiseb River, mostly a dry riverbed, but with groundwater and good rainfall over the last two years sustaining a remarkable diversity of plants and animals in this extraordinarily arid environment. The river's groundwater also plays an important role in supplying the coastal settlements.

From above, the contrast is astonishing: the apparently barren desert is suddenly intersected by a narrow, greenish ribbon of life. It also looks spectacular where green meets desert, sometimes in a very sharp contrast (see photo I).

We also see the Kuiseb Delta, which we explored from ground level only yesterday.


Kuiseb Delta
Namibia 2026


It is fascinating to see how the landscape we experienced from a Land Rover is transformed completely from the air.

At one point, the second Cessna that took off with us crosses back and forth over our aircraft — sometimes above us, sometimes below us — before suddenly diving off to one side.

I can understand why they looked slightly pale when we saw them again at the airport later!


Second Cessna that took off with us
Namibia 2026


The Sossusvlei Dunes from Above

We continue towards the famous Sossusvlei area.

The wind-sculpted dunes around Sossusvlei are among Namibia's most spectacular natural features, with some dunes rising more than 300 metres. Big Daddy, between Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, is around 325 metres high.

At the heart of the landscape lies Sossusvlei itself, a vast clay pan that only very occasionally fills with water after exceptional rainfall. Nearby are smaller pans such as Hidden Vlei and Deadvlei, the latter famous for its ancient, dead camel-thorn trees.


Sossusvlei area from above
Namibia 2026


We have visited these places several times before (link), but seeing them from the air is something completely different.

The enormous dunes stretch endlessly in every direction, their shapes and colours constantly changing with the angle of the late-afternoon sun.

And the shadows!

The low sun creates long, sharply defined shadows along the ridges, emphasising the contours of the dunes in a way that is almost impossible to appreciate from ground level.


Shadows along the ridges
Namibia 2026


Across the Endless Namib


 Endless desert heading for the coast
Namibia 2026


Now comes a long flight across seemingly endless desert.

For kilometres, the dunes form remarkably regular lines, arranged broadly perpendicular to the prevailing winds like enormous parallel sand ridges.

We cross roughly 120 kilometres of desert.

Looking down at this immense wilderness, it is easy to understand how unforgiving the Skeleton Coast must have been for shipwrecked sailors in the past. From the coast, there was essentially an enormous desert between them and any meaningful chance of reaching civilisation.

It is not difficult to understand where the name Skeleton Coast came from.


The Diamond Camps


One of the dimond camps
Difficult to really see
Namibia 2026


We eventually reach the old diamond camps — Charlottenfelder, Holsatia and Conception — the last remains of the diamond-rush era in the northern Diamond Area.

From the air, it is surprisingly difficult to see much of them, even though we fly very low over the area.

If you are lucky — and quick with the camera — you can spot the remains of A-frame shacks, house ruins, an old ox wagon, rusty water pipes, wooden barrels and abandoned mining equipment. They are the remnants of a remarkably tough chapter in Namibia's history, when diamond mining dominated this remote and inhospitable landscape.

The mining settlements were eventually abandoned in the late 1930s.

Shortly before reaching the ocean, we pass a series of coastal lagoons filled with large groups of flamingos.

Another spectacular sight from the air.


Coastal lagoon with large groups of flamingos
Namibia 2026


The Eduard Bohlen and the Skeleton Coast


 The lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen
Namibia 2026


We now reach another of the highlights of the flight.

After flying very low over the final dunes separating the Namib from the Atlantic, we see the lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen.

From the air, this is about as close as most people will ever get to this famous shipwreck.

The Eduard Bohlen was a passenger liner of the Woermann Line and later a supply ship serving the diamond camps. It ran aground at Conception Bay in 1909 and has remained stranded there ever since.

We turn north along the Skeleton Coast and soon see another wreck, the Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976.


Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976
Namibia 2026


Two ships, two stories and a spectacularly unforgiving coastline.

We also pass large colonies of Cape fur seals.

From the air, they appear completely undisturbed, occupying the remote coastline far from roads, people and tourist vehicles.


Colonies of Cape fur seals
Namibia 2026


Sandwich Harbour from Above


spot some of the vehicles
undertaking the same tour we did yesterday
Namibia 2026


Eventually, we reach Sandwich Harbour — the scene of our spectacular adventure only yesterday (link).

Wedged between the Namib Sand Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Sandwich Harbour is a unique coastal wetland consisting of a northern freshwater wetland and southern mudflats. It is an internationally important wetland and an important refuge for large numbers of waterbirds.

It is quite surreal to see the entire area from above after spending most of yesterday bouncing around it in a Land Rover.

We can even spot some of the vehicles undertaking the same tour we did yesterday.

From this altitude, they are almost ridiculously tiny.

The enormous dunes make the Land Rovers look like miniature toy cars crawling through a sea of sand.


Salt, Flamingos and Walvis Bay


Salt works south of Walvis Bay, rectangular ponds
Namibia 2026


We continue towards the Kuiseb Delta, with its distinctive “hammock dunes”, before reaching the enormous salt works south of Walvis Bay.

From above, the salt pans form an extraordinary geometric pattern of rectangular ponds.

Some of the ponds are vividly pink and red, caused by algae and other microorganisms living in the highly saline water. These colours also contribute to the spectacular appearance of the flamingos that feed in the surrounding wetlands.

The salt works produce hundreds of thousands of tonnes of salt annually for industrial and food use.


Enormous salt works S of Walvis Bay
Namibia 2026


We then fly along the coast of Walvis Bay.

Walvis Bay, once under British and then South African administration, was re-integrated into independent Namibia on 1 March 1994. Today it is Namibia's major deep-water port and an important commercial centre on the Atlantic coast.

Once again, we see large numbers of flamingos around the lagoon.

We saw many of them yesterday.

But from above, the birds, lagoon and surrounding salt pans form an entirely different spectacle.


Walwis Bay, Namibia's major deep-water port
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund from the Air


Swakop and our own little chalets on stilts
 at The Stiltz, lower right corner
Namibia 2026


Finally, we approach Swakopmund.

And there, below us, are our own little chalets on stilts at The Stiltz.

We can even see the pier where we had dinner at The Tug the previous evening.


The pier where we had dinner at The Tug
Namibia 2026


Further along the coast is the newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar, where we are going for dinner tonight.


The newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund is truly beautiful from the air, particularly in the warm light of the setting sun.

The old German colonial buildings dominate the historic centre, standing in striking contrast to the enormous arid landscape surrounding the town.

But from above we also discover something we had barely noticed from ground level: an enormous amount of new development spreading inland from the old town.

It is quite a different perspective on a place we thought we already knew well.


Back to Earth


We have viewed familiar places
 from an entirely new perspective!
Namibia 2026


We turn inland and begin our final approach to Swakopmund Airport.

One last look at the rather rough-and-ready settlement around the airport, and then our pilot smoothly puts the wheels back on the ground.

It is over.

Two hours and approximately 630 kilometres have passed almost unbelievably quickly.

We have seen parts of Namibia that would otherwise have remained completely inaccessible to us, and we have viewed familiar places from an entirely new perspective.

The experience has exceeded our already high expectations.

We feel incredibly privileged.

If you are tempted to do the same journey, you can read more about the Sossusfly and its current route here (link). Sossusfly itself describes it as its most popular scenic flight, covering approximately 630 kilometres in around 2 hours and 10 minutes, with less than 20% of the route visible by road.

There is certainly plenty to talk about over dinner at Ocean Cellar that evening.

Monday, 27 July 2026

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast, part 4

On the way to Swakopmund,
Namibia 2024

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast

After three unforgettable nights in NamibRand, we face one of the longest driving days of the entire journey as we make our way towards Namibia's Atlantic coast.

Rather than attempting the drive in a single day, we have decided to break the journey with an overnight stay at Desert Grace Lodge, a property we have wanted to experience for several years.

Its contemporary architecture contrasts beautifully with the surrounding desert, while every villa enjoys uninterrupted views across the vast plains. Even the private plunge pools look incredibly inviting—although, at this time of year, the water will almost certainly be too cold for anything more than a very brief swim!

The journey itself is part of the adventure. The road crosses two of Namibia's most spectacular mountain passes, Gaub Pass and Kuiseb Pass, both offering dramatic scenery and fascinating geology. If you would like to know more about these remarkable routes, you can read about our previous drive through the passes here (Gaub & Kuiseb 2024).


Swakopmund, Sandwich Harbour and a Flight Above the Namib

Eventually the desert gives way to the cool Atlantic Ocean as we arrive in Swakopmund, Namibia's charming coastal town with its unmistakable German colonial heritage.

This time we will be staying at The Stiltz, an unusual lodge where wooden chalets stand on stilts overlooking the Swakop River lagoon, the Atlantic Ocean and the edge of the Namib Desert.

On previous visits we stayed at the nearby Desert Breeze Lodge, which we can warmly recommend. Both properties share the same owners, so we are looking forward to discovering whether The Stiltz lives up to the high standards we experienced before. Judging by its unique location, it certainly has every chance.

As always, we have planned plenty of memorable experiences during our stay.

One full day will be devoted to a guided excursion to Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours. Few places in Africa are as spectacular as the point where towering sand dunes plunge directly into the Atlantic Ocean, and driving along the beach beneath these giant dunes remains one of Namibia's truly iconic experiences.

Naturally, excellent food also forms part of the itinerary. One evening we will return to The Tug, one of Swakopmund's best-known restaurants, while another dinner is already reserved at Ocean Cellar, where we have previously enjoyed some of the finest seafood anywhere in Southern Africa.


On the way to Sandwich Harbour,
Namibia 2024

Perhaps the most exciting experience of all, however, awaits from the air.

For the first time, we have chartered a Cessna scenic flight to experience Namibia from an entirely different perspective. During more than two hours in the air, the flight covers approximately 630 kilometres, revealing landscapes that few visitors ever see from the ground.

Flying above the towering dunes of the Namib Desert, the dramatic coastline of the Skeleton Coast, forgotten shipwrecks and vast empty wilderness promises to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that will remain with us forever.

If everything goes according to plan—and the landing is as smooth as the take-off—it may well become the highlight of the entire journey. You can read about the flight here (Sossusfly Excursion) and see a video here (Sossusfly on Yotube)


Source link airchraft fleet


Monday, 12 August 2019

Terrace Bay Skeleton Coast; another planet?

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet


Terrace Bay next morning, another planet?
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Leaving Terrace Bay next morning
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Still on Skeleton Coast, after our "unlucky episode" trapped in a salt pan near the Winston Wreck (!) (link), we reach Terrace Bay Restcamp after the longest possible drive north along Skeleton Coast. Indeed, Terrace Bay is the furthest north that visitors can drive along C34 on the coast from the Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park.

Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park
166 kms before Terrace Bay

Driving along Skeleton Coast at night

When we passed Torra Bay, where there were what looked as some abandoned shacks, it had become dark. Normally, you should not drive in Skeleton Coast Park in darkness, as it is an incredibly deserted area with wild animals and no help anywhere nearby, but the friendly staff at the Ugab River Gate, who helped us save the car, allowed us to drive into the National Park in order to reach our destination (and prepaid booking) at Terrace Bay if we promised to drive directly to Terrace Bay with no deviations and stick to the main track. Also, we promised the kind staff at Ugab River Gate to call when we arrived. They wanted to make sure we were safe and had no problems with the car.

We drove very carefully, but determined, all 166 kms. It is not an area where you want the car to breakdown. We saw many jackals, but no lions - they rarely walk all the way to the coast.

We didn't want to visit more shipwrecks down tracks off the main track!!

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet. Everything seemed abandoned. The main reception was closed and we couldn't find any people or staff. At least, thjere were signs of civilization. As we were driving around for a while in this dark and deserted lunar base, we saw light in the distance. We found a way to the light. It turned out to be the restaurant (basic cafeteria), where we were greeted by friendly staff. No one had missed us.

We got our huge Beach Chatlet with five bedrooms, three bathrooms, large living room and kitchen. Completely surreal. Everything was simple but functional and clean. You sense it was originally built for the mine staff until the goverment took over in 1977.

We slept exceptionally well that night

We slept exceptionally well that night. The roaring sea and the wind did not keep us awake. Surprisingly, I did not dream of being dragged into quicksand

Our garden in the desert in the middle of nowhere
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our house (beach chalet)
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our sleeping quarters, simple but clean
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Heading for breakfast in the "restaurant"
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our kitchen in the beach chalet
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Saturday, 3 August 2019

We are in serious problems on the Skeleton Coast!


Warning, don´t try to drive to Winston wreck!!


We decide to make a little deviation from our route to visit the shipwreck.
Turns out to be a major error

We drive along the Skeleton Coast. We are nearly 200 kms north of Swakopmund, just 12 km before the Ugab River Gate, which is the gateway to the "Skeleton Coast Park". We drive on a very deserted part of Namibia's west coast called the “National West Coast Tourist Recreation Area". This part of Namibia´s coast is known for it´s many shipwrecks. On the left hand, we see a sign for "Wreck of the Winston". Winston is a large fishing boat that grounded in 1970. It lies off the coast about 5 kms from the "main track". In theory, you can reach it by a small rutted track off the main track.

C34 road from Swakopmund via Henties Bay
to Ugab River Gate and Skeleton Coast Park

Brilliant idea?!

It sounds exciting? We decide to make a little deviation from our route to visit the shipwreck. This turns out to be a major error!! There are no other people nearby. This area is very deserted. Initially, the dirt road is OK although severely corrugated. At the end of the corrugated road, there is no ship wreck nearby, but we can glimpse a wreck a few kilometers to the south in the stormy sea. It looks impressive in the binoculars. We decide to follow the many tracks in the sand heading south parallel to the shoreline. In the beginning it´s fine, but the track gets more and more humid. We can still glimse the wreck in the distance. Also, on the coastline, we glimpse a lone 4-wheeler with fishermen heading south – but they are quickly gone in the horizon. There are only a few hundreds of meters to the shoreline where the fishermen were driving. For a short moment, I consider whether it is too uncertain to head for the shoreline but it seems OK.

We try to dig out the wheels and put rocks and driftwood beneath.
The car will not come free

Disaster - we are stuck!

A disaster! The front of our car sinks into soft sand in a salt pan. We're completely stuck. We try to dig out the wheels and put rocks and driftwood beneath. It is quickly clear, that the car will not come free without help. Not good at all. The nearest aid is at Henties Bay which is more than 100 km away. Very long to walk! It's about 5 km. to the main track where other cars occasionally pass by.

We collect the most important papers and some water for the walk towards the main track. I have  my GPS with "Tracks4Africa" and a powerbank. At least we know exactly where we are. We also quickly grab some extra warm clothes. Just in case we have to stay out all night. We lock the car and hope there is no tider. Still not an eye to see.

What do we do?

We follow our own cars track back along the coast towards the perpendicular track west to the main road. We are tempted to cross a moist sand area to save some kilometers walk but decide not to (given our new very recent experience with moist sand!). My children and my wife are so calm despite the difficult situation. How cool they are. They just accept the situation although it is not harmless. We are in one of the most desolate places in Namibia, which is the second most desolate country in the world. We see jackals in the distance.

Black-backed jackal, Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019
Scavenging for scraps

Hallelujah - thank you Italy

Hallelujah, after approx. 20 minutes walk, we see a car in the distance driving down the corrugated track. We wave with our arms everything we've learned. The car keeps to the distance. You do not just drive towards strangers at this desolate place. Fortunately, they decide to approach us. A young very friendly and helpful couple from Italy. They pick us up in the trunk and and we drive towards our stranded car. It is quickly clear that it is dangerous to get too close to our car. We park at a safe distance.

We collect all luggage from the car and the four of ys crawl into the trunck of the Italians car. During the trip to the main rtrack, I remember we are only about 20 kms from the Ugab River Gate, which is the entrance to Skeleton Park. I seems to recall reading somewhere that national park staff will be there.

We unload all our luggage at Ugab River Gate, Namibia 2019

Thanks staff at Ugab River Gate

We quickly drive to the Ugab River Gate, where the friendly staff helps us to call the car rental company and a towing company in Henties Bay. We accept the price (not cheap even for Danish standards – but we are not in a good barging situation).

After 2 hours of nerve-wracking waiting for a towing truck, and then another 1.5 hours driving out saving the rental car and back again, we are on our way again
"what doesn't kill you makes you stronger"
I am so glad we got away from this situation all well. We have been to Africa several times driving four-wheel cars in remote areas without getting stuck. It's a pity that the first time should be in such an extreme place!

High lift jack under the towing hook, sandboards and a wire from the Land Rover

Land Rover and sandboards, Namibai 2019

Removing wire again, Namibia 2019

Winston road = turist trap

The owner of the towing company that pulls us free says we are no. 81 he rescue at this particular place !! It is a tourist trap. There is a nice sign for "Wreck of the Winston", and a good road in the beginning, but it ends in a murky salt pan where everyone get stuck.

We are deeply grateful that we got off well - and that the car got off well.
A lot of cleaning and we are off again for new (but safer) adventures.

Finally, we got through the gate - we will arrive after dark a Terrace Bay!


Driving along Skeleton Coast


Skeleton coast got its name from the ships and unlucky sailors who perished after being shipwrecked on the barren shores


The fishing trawler, that was sold as scrap metal to an Indian company,
got stranded after it came loose from its towing line
shortly after it left Walvis Bay

Zeila stranded 25 August 2008 early morning 14km south of Henties Bay
It´s easy to visit, our daughter inspecting the wreck from safe distance

Even if the sailors survived the shipwreck, their problems had only just begun

Treacherous fogs and strong currents forced many ships onto the hidden and ever changing sandbanks underwater at Skeleton Coast. Even if the sailors survived, their problems had only just begun. The coast is a barren line between the cold pounding ocean and the desert interior.

Planned route from Swakopmund to Terrace Bay
along Skeleton Coast, 360 kms (route details)

We are heading for Terrace Bay, the furthest north visitors can drive on the coast
The road we follow, C34, runs all the way from Swakop to our destination at Terrace Bay. It´s nearly parallel to the ocean and seems continuing forever with sea on one side and clay or sand on the other. After approx. 250 kms, the endless gravel and rock surroundings are released by the northern dune sea.

Reaching the nothern dune sea, on C34 near Uniab dry riverbed 

Driving along the coast, we pass the main rivers starting far indland in the mountains. Most of the year, they are just dry sand rivers only occasionally flowing overland for a few hundred meters before they vanish from the surface into the sand again. From south, we pass the riverbeds of; Omaruru, Ugab, Huab, Koichab, and Uniab, before reaching Terrace Bay. In the river beds you can encounter gemsbok, kudu, springbok, steenbok, jackals, genets, and small wild cats. At rare occations hyena, giraffe, zebra, lion, and cheetah.

We saw many jackals, this one just after Ugab River Gate
entering Skeleton Coast Park

Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Skeleton Coast Park gate,  the skeleton warns you that is very far to help.!
Be prepared before driving in. and always stick to the track
Avoiding loose sand (se next postings!)

In 2012, we drove west from Purros towards the Skeleton Coast along the dry Hoarusib riverbed, where we encountered a wild elephant trying to attach the car (link). It´s indeed fantastic to se the wildlife on first hand - and quite surreal - in this deserted area, but it´s OK without desert adapted elephants chasing our car this time.

Terrace Bay

Terrace Bay, our final destination, is a desolate spot, slightly surreal. It´s like reaching a base on planet Mars (not that I have tried). Originally build as a mining venture, it´s lone palms and simple buildings loom out of the mist. Fishermen come here all year. There is a "petrol station", probably the most lonely in Namibia, and Terrace Bay Camp resort, with functional but very simple bungalows. the staff are friendly and the "restaurant" very fine given the extreme location. It whole place reminds me of some of the places I have seen in Greenland. 

The direct view from our very large beach chalet
Don´t go swimming (it´s very cold anyway)

Our very private villa!