Through the Gaub and Kuiseb Passes to Swakopmund

 

Blogger and brother in Kuiseb Pass
 above Kuiseb River canyon
Namibia 2026

After our enjoyable stop in Solitaire, we continue towards Swakopmund, crossing the spectacular Gaub and Kuiseb mountain passes. This is the main tourist route between Swakopmund and Sossusvlei — a beautiful journey through some of the Namib Desert’s most dramatic landscapes.

Solitaire has become noticeably busier since our first visit in 2009. We stop for coffee and some of McGregor’s large cookies, rather than their famous apple pie, before setting off towards the mountains.

At McGregor’s, Solitaire
Namibia 2026 

The Gaub Pass winds through rugged desert terrain, while the Kuiseb Pass follows the dramatic Kuiseb River canyon, cutting through ancient rocky landscapes. We look forward to a booked scenic flight over this area. The road repeatedly rises and falls through barren mountains and dry river valleys, making this one of the most scenic sections of the journey.

As we approach the coast, the landscape gradually changes to flat again. We reach Swakopmund via Walvis Bay and the coastal road, and it is striking to see how much new development is taking place along this stretch.

As we approach the coast
landscape gradually changes to flat again
Namibia 2026

The bay is also dotted with drilling rigs and large vessels. With the recent offshore oil discoveries, it is impossible not to wonder what the future holds for this spectacular coastline.

Busy in Walvis Bay
Taken on scenic flight 2 days later
Namibia 2026

Let's hope Namibia manages to develop its new resources without sacrificing the extraordinary natural environment that makes this coast so special.

Arriving at The Stiltz

Our cabins, built on stilts
On Swakop River bank near ocean
Namibia 2026

In Swakopmund, we check into The Stiltz, a collection of small wooden chalets built on stilts where the Swakop River reaches the Atlantic Ocean.

We have booked the best available sea-view bungalows, with direct views across both the ocean and the river mouth with flammingoes walking around. The location is hard to beat. Tiger Reef Beach Bar is right next door, making it an ideal place for a sunset drink, while the centre of Swakopmund is within easy walking distance.

The view from our window
The Stiltz, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026

The chalets are clearly not brand new, but they are clean, comfortable and perfectly maintained. And the location more than makes up for their age.

The cold coastal nights are no problem either: there are electrically heated mattress pads and an electric heater in the room. There is plenty of hot water in the shower and surprisingly generous space inside.

The property is secured behind a gate that is locked at night, with a friendly security guard on duty. The staff are exceptionally welcoming and helpful.

After the long drive from the desert, it feels good to be back on the Atlantic coast.

We are looking forward to the next few days — and to some wild new adventures in and around Swakopmund!

Link to our previous stay in The Villa, Ocean Breeze (link)

Link to previous trip through Gaub and Kuiseb Passes with more pictures (link)

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast, part 4

On the way to Swakopmund,
Namibia 2024

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast

After three unforgettable nights in NamibRand, we face one of the longest driving days of the entire journey as we make our way towards Namibia's Atlantic coast.

Rather than attempting the drive in a single day, we have decided to break the journey with an overnight stay at Desert Grace Lodge, a property we have wanted to experience for several years.

Its contemporary architecture contrasts beautifully with the surrounding desert, while every villa enjoys uninterrupted views across the vast plains. Even the private plunge pools look incredibly inviting—although, at this time of year, the water will almost certainly be too cold for anything more than a very brief swim!

The journey itself is part of the adventure. The road crosses two of Namibia's most spectacular mountain passes, Gaub Pass and Kuiseb Pass, both offering dramatic scenery and fascinating geology. If you would like to know more about these remarkable routes, you can read about our previous drive through the passes here (Gaub & Kuiseb 2024).

Swakopmund, Sandwich Harbour and a Flight Above the Namib

Eventually the desert gives way to the cool Atlantic Ocean as we arrive in Swakopmund, Namibia's charming coastal town with its unmistakable German colonial heritage.

This time we will be staying at The Stiltz, an unusual lodge where wooden chalets stand on stilts overlooking the Swakop River lagoon, the Atlantic Ocean and the edge of the Namib Desert.

On previous visits we stayed at the nearby Desert Breeze Lodge, which we can warmly recommend. Both properties share the same owners, so we are looking forward to discovering whether The Stiltz lives up to the high standards we experienced before. Judging by its unique location, it certainly has every chance.

As always, we have planned plenty of memorable experiences during our stay.

One full day will be devoted to a guided excursion to Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours. Few places in Africa are as spectacular as the point where towering sand dunes plunge directly into the Atlantic Ocean, and driving along the beach beneath these giant dunes remains one of Namibia's truly iconic experiences.

Naturally, excellent food also forms part of the itinerary. One evening we will return to The Tug, one of Swakopmund's best-known restaurants, while another dinner is already reserved at Ocean Cellar, where we have previously enjoyed some of the finest seafood anywhere in Southern Africa.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour,
Namibia 2024

Perhaps the most exciting experience of all, however, awaits from the air.

For the first time, we have chartered a Cessna scenic flight to experience Namibia from an entirely different perspective. During more than two hours in the air, the flight covers approximately 630 kilometres, revealing landscapes that few visitors ever see from the ground.

Flying above the towering dunes of the Namib Desert, the dramatic coastline of the Skeleton Coast, forgotten shipwrecks and vast empty wilderness promises to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that will remain with us forever.

If everything goes according to plan—and the landing is as smooth as the take-off—it may well become the highlight of the entire journey. You can read about the flight here (Sossusfly Excursion) and see a video here (Sossusfly on Yotube)

Source link airchraft fleet

Driving through Solitaire, Gaub and Kuiseb Pass

The long day double pass adventure!

Leaving overhanging Cliff Picnic Spot, Kuiseb Pass,
Namibia, 2024.

We leave Namibrand Nature reserve early morning heading for Desert Breeze Lodge in Swakopmund. It´s a very long drive along C27 through the nature reserve to famous Sesriem, and then along C19 to Solitaire, our lunch stop! Afterwards, C14 through the two mountain passes Gaub and Kuiseb in Namib desert. It turns out to take 8 hours including lunch, coffee and photo stops.

Solitaire - "Bagdad Cafe" in Namibia!

We lelave NamibRand at 6:30 in the morning heading for Swakopmund. This will be a very long drive! After approx. 4 hours with very limited trafic on the gravel track, we stop for brunch in Solitaire, a small settlement known for its unique charm. It’s a popular stopover for travelers exploring the Namib Desert, either on the way in (like us) or coming out of the desert. 

Scattered around Solitaire, we see old, rusted cars and trucks, which have become a quirky part of its charm. It really reminds us of the film "Bagdad Cafe"! I expect Jasmin to appear at any time! Solitaire's charm lies in its simplicity and the stark beauty of the desert environment surrounding it. It’s wild west, and even though it is small, but expanding every time we visit, it serves as a unique and memorable waypoint for travelers.

Solitaire, Namibia, 2009.

Bakery, Solitaire, Namibia, 2024.

Petrol station, Solitaire, Namibia, 2024.

Gaub Pass

About 50 km north of Solitaire, we cross the Tropic of Capricorn, which marks the most southerly latitude at which the sun can appear directly overhead at noon, entering Gaub Pass. The pass is located between the Kuiseb and Gaub riverbeds and provides breathtaking views of the surrounding Namib Desert landscape. The drive through Gaub Pass reveals dramatic scenery with steep, winding roads cutting through rocky terrain and deep ravines. Along the way, we can see all the ancient rock layers stacked upon each other - my brother would love to tell us about the geology - next time ;-) The road through Gaub Pass is gravel and can be challenging, but fortunately it’s not the rainy season and we are in a capable 4x4 vehicle, never speeding.

Ancient rock layers, Namibia, 2009.

Kuiseb Pass

After turning west into the desert, we reach the perhaps more impressive Kuiseb Pass. We witness the stark contrast between the arid desert landscape and the deep river canyon - we make sure to stay on the road while we navigate steep inclines, sharp bends, and narrow sections requiring careful and experienced driving! 

Kuiseb Pass view to the arid desert landscape
and the deep river canyon,
Namibia, 2024.

'We have spectacular views of the Kuiseb River, which the pass crosses. The Kuiseb River is a crucial feature in the Namib Desert. Although it is often dry, the riverbed can fill rapidly during rare but intense rainfall events. The river acts as a natural barrier preventing the northern movement of the sand dunes, creating a distinct boundary between the dune sea and the gravel plains. 

Our friends leaving the  
'Overhanging Cliff Picnic Spot',
Kuiseb Pass, Namibia, 2024.

In Kuiseb Pass, we see a marker for the 'Overhanging Cliff Picnic Spot' on Tracks4Africa. It looks intriguing and perfect for a small coffee break. I remember the place from a previous visit, when I thought there was a very steep descent and ascent to the overhanging cave. But this time, we’re in powerful Land Cruisers that can handle the terrain. So, we take the exciting route! A fantastic little 4x4 adventure! Only go if 4x4 and 4L + diff. lock and high ground clearence. If you don´t know what this is, don´t go for it ;-)

Long flat route after Kuiseb Pass, only tar close to 
Walwis Bay, Namibia, 2024.

After leaving the pass, we venture into the dune sea and long flat route to Swakopmund.

Desert Breeze Lodge in Swakopmund

Desert Breeze, views of the Namib Desert
directly from the bed, Namibia, 2019. 

Finally, after a very long 8 hours drive (!), we check into our private villa in Swakopmund! We have three large bedrooms with panoramic views of the Swakop River and Namib Desert directly from the bed through large windows and our private terraces. The villa also features a fully equipped kitchenette, a cozy living area, a fireplace, and two well-appointed bathrooms with showers. In the coming days, we look forward to a catamaran sailing tour and a Sandwich Harbour 4x4 expedition! We feel humbled and privileged to experince all these adventures with good friends.

 

Catamaran Sailing Tour, Walvis Bay,
Namibia, 2024.

Blog author "attacked by pelican",
Walvis Bay, Namibia 2024.

From Windhoek to Swakopmund, which route?

There are several routes from Windhoek to Swakopmund

Possibilities

• B2 is the most straight forward if you are busy. It´s tarred all the way and should take 3-4 hours
• More interesting is perhaps to take one of the three passes: Bosua, Ushoogte or Gamsberg. They are gravel road routes and takes considerable longer

We took C26 - spectacular route through Gamsberg Pass

Until you reach the Gamsberg Pass, the route is not that interesting if you have travelled in Namibia before. However, when you reach the 2347 meters Gamsberg Mountain, you have nice driving and views to the surrounding mountains. Before reaching Namib Desert, you also pass Kuiseb Pass. Afterwards, you join the C14 for the last approx. 100 kms. to Walwis Bay. That part of the road was very corrugated. Perhaps, go for C28 (Bosua Pass) instead given the poor road conditions at C14. Or chek that the road has improved. 

Showing the C26 route to our children
Namibia 2019

Flat landscape before reaching Gamsberg Pass
Perhaps not that interesting

Now it gets interesting driving the car
Gamsberg Pass, Namibia 2019

There is no auto protection, drive carefully
Gamsberg Pass, Namibia 2019

Coffee break in Namib Desert
Namibia 2019

Entering the national park area
Namiia 2019

Finally reaching Walwis Bay suburb