Through the Gaub and Kuiseb Passes to Swakopmund

 

Blogger and brother in Kuiseb Pass
 above Kuiseb River canyon
Namibia 2026

After our enjoyable stop in Solitaire, we continue towards Swakopmund, crossing the spectacular Gaub and Kuiseb mountain passes. This is the main tourist route between Swakopmund and Sossusvlei — a beautiful journey through some of the Namib Desert’s most dramatic landscapes.

Solitaire has become noticeably busier since our first visit in 2009. We stop for coffee and some of McGregor’s large cookies, rather than their famous apple pie, before setting off towards the mountains.

At McGregor’s, Solitaire
Namibia 2026 

The Gaub Pass winds through rugged desert terrain, while the Kuiseb Pass follows the dramatic Kuiseb River canyon, cutting through ancient rocky landscapes. We look forward to a booked scenic flight over this area. The road repeatedly rises and falls through barren mountains and dry river valleys, making this one of the most scenic sections of the journey.

As we approach the coast, the landscape gradually changes to flat again. We reach Swakopmund via Walvis Bay and the coastal road, and it is striking to see how much new development is taking place along this stretch.

As we approach the coast
landscape gradually changes to flat again
Namibia 2026

The bay is also dotted with drilling rigs and large vessels. With the recent offshore oil discoveries, it is impossible not to wonder what the future holds for this spectacular coastline.

Busy in Walvis Bay
Taken on scenic flight 2 days later
Namibia 2026

Let's hope Namibia manages to develop its new resources without sacrificing the extraordinary natural environment that makes this coast so special.

Arriving at The Stiltz

Our cabins, built on stilts
On Swakop River bank near ocean
Namibia 2026

In Swakopmund, we check into The Stiltz, a collection of small wooden chalets built on stilts where the Swakop River reaches the Atlantic Ocean.

We have booked the best available sea-view bungalows, with direct views across both the ocean and the river mouth with flammingoes walking around. The location is hard to beat. Tiger Reef Beach Bar is right next door, making it an ideal place for a sunset drink, while the centre of Swakopmund is within easy walking distance.

The view from our window
The Stiltz, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026

The chalets are clearly not brand new, but they are clean, comfortable and perfectly maintained. And the location more than makes up for their age.

The cold coastal nights are no problem either: there are electrically heated mattress pads and an electric heater in the room. There is plenty of hot water in the shower and surprisingly generous space inside.

The property is secured behind a gate that is locked at night, with a friendly security guard on duty. The staff are exceptionally welcoming and helpful.

After the long drive from the desert, it feels good to be back on the Atlantic coast.

We are looking forward to the next few days — and to some wild new adventures in and around Swakopmund!

Link to our previous stay in The Villa, Ocean Breeze (link)

Link to previous trip through Gaub and Kuiseb Passes with more pictures (link)