Showing posts with label Swakopmund. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Swakopmund. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 August 2026

Sossusfly – Namibia from Above


We are heading on a scenic flight
 "Sossusfly"
Namibia 2026

Namibia from Above

This time, we have decided to see Namibia from a rather different perspective and booked perhaps the most popular scenic flight in Namibia, the SOSSUSfly, also known as the “Sossus Scenic”.

We are going to fly for approximately 2 hours and 10 minutes, covering around 630 kilometres in our own chartered Cessna 210. According to Sossusfly, less than 20% of the route can be seen when travelling by road.

We have already driven an enormous amount in Namibia — probably more than 30,000 kilometres over our various journeys — reaching some of the most remote corners of the country. But this flight will take us over vast areas of the ancient Namib Desert that are far beyond any drivable route, as well as the southern Skeleton Coast, much of which is normally difficult to access.

One of the most exciting aspects is that we will follow the green ribbon of the Kuiseb River inland towards the Kuiseb Canyon, before crossing the desert at very low altitude and heading north along the Atlantic coast.

We visited Sandwich Harbour from the ground only yesterday (link).

Today, we are going to see it from above.


Before Take-off


Pre flight breefing
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026

Our route, the red one
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026


We are collected in the late afternoon from our chalets at The Stiltz and driven to Swakopmund Airport.

All four of us are excited. After all, it is not every day that you get to undertake an adventure like this.

At the airport there is plenty of activity. Small aircraft are landing and taking off, while some passengers are preparing for skydiving.

I notice our pilot checking the fuel quantity in both wings.

He remembers to screw the fuel caps back on.

Good start!


We are ready for depature
Namibia 2026


Before departure, we have provided our individual weights and signed a declaration which, I suspect, probably exempts the airline from almost everything that could possibly happen to us. ;-)

There is also one final opportunity for a biological break.

There is no toilet on this little aircraft, and certainly no stewardess.

Although, technically, I suppose I am the stewardess.

I am sitting at the back, where I can reach the small luggage compartment containing our drinks and other essentials.

My wife and sister-in-law occupy the middle seats, while my brother gets the prestigious seat next to the pilot.


My brother in copilot seat
Namibia 2026 


He has everything necessary to fly the aircraft.

He just doesn't know what any of it does.

We hope he learns quickly in the event of an emergency!


Following the Kuiseb River


Below us is the Kuiseb River,
Namibia 2026


We take off smoothly from Swakopmund and head towards Walvis Bay before turning inland, following much the same route as the one we drove two days earlier.

Below us is the Kuiseb River, mostly a dry riverbed, but with groundwater and good rainfall over the last two years sustaining a remarkable diversity of plants and animals in this extraordinarily arid environment. The river's groundwater also plays an important role in supplying the coastal settlements.

From above, the contrast is astonishing: the apparently barren desert is suddenly intersected by a narrow, greenish ribbon of life. It also looks spectacular where green meets desert, sometimes in a very sharp contrast (see photo I).

We also see the Kuiseb Delta, which we explored from ground level only yesterday.


Kuiseb Delta
Namibia 2026


It is fascinating to see how the landscape we experienced from a Land Rover is transformed completely from the air.

At one point, the second Cessna that took off with us crosses back and forth over our aircraft — sometimes above us, sometimes below us — before suddenly diving off to one side.

I can understand why they looked slightly pale when we saw them again at the airport later!


Second Cessna that took off with us
Namibia 2026


The Sossusvlei Dunes from Above

We continue towards the famous Sossusvlei area.

The wind-sculpted dunes around Sossusvlei are among Namibia's most spectacular natural features, with some dunes rising more than 300 metres. Big Daddy, between Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, is around 325 metres high.

At the heart of the landscape lies Sossusvlei itself, a vast clay pan that only very occasionally fills with water after exceptional rainfall. Nearby are smaller pans such as Hidden Vlei and Deadvlei, the latter famous for its ancient, dead camel-thorn trees.


Sossusvlei area from above
Namibia 2026


We have visited these places several times before (link), but seeing them from the air is something completely different.

The enormous dunes stretch endlessly in every direction, their shapes and colours constantly changing with the angle of the late-afternoon sun.

And the shadows!

The low sun creates long, sharply defined shadows along the ridges, emphasising the contours of the dunes in a way that is almost impossible to appreciate from ground level.


Shadows along the ridges
Namibia 2026


Across the Endless Namib


 Endless desert heading for the coast
Namibia 2026


Now comes a long flight across seemingly endless desert.

For kilometres, the dunes form remarkably regular lines, arranged broadly perpendicular to the prevailing winds like enormous parallel sand ridges.

We cross roughly 120 kilometres of desert.

Looking down at this immense wilderness, it is easy to understand how unforgiving the Skeleton Coast must have been for shipwrecked sailors in the past. From the coast, there was essentially an enormous desert between them and any meaningful chance of reaching civilisation.

It is not difficult to understand where the name Skeleton Coast came from.


The Diamond Camps


One of the dimond camps
Difficult to really see
Namibia 2026


We eventually reach the old diamond camps — Charlottenfelder, Holsatia and Conception — the last remains of the diamond-rush era in the northern Diamond Area.

From the air, it is surprisingly difficult to see much of them, even though we fly very low over the area.

If you are lucky — and quick with the camera — you can spot the remains of A-frame shacks, house ruins, an old ox wagon, rusty water pipes, wooden barrels and abandoned mining equipment. They are the remnants of a remarkably tough chapter in Namibia's history, when diamond mining dominated this remote and inhospitable landscape.

The mining settlements were eventually abandoned in the late 1930s.

Shortly before reaching the ocean, we pass a series of coastal lagoons filled with large groups of flamingos.

Another spectacular sight from the air.


Coastal lagoon with large groups of flamingos
Namibia 2026


The Eduard Bohlen and the Skeleton Coast


 The lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen
Namibia 2026


We now reach another of the highlights of the flight.

After flying very low over the final dunes separating the Namib from the Atlantic, we see the lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen.

From the air, this is about as close as most people will ever get to this famous shipwreck.

The Eduard Bohlen was a passenger liner of the Woermann Line and later a supply ship serving the diamond camps. It ran aground at Conception Bay in 1909 and has remained stranded there ever since.

We turn north along the Skeleton Coast and soon see another wreck, the Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976.


Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976
Namibia 2026


Two ships, two stories and a spectacularly unforgiving coastline.

We also pass large colonies of Cape fur seals.

From the air, they appear completely undisturbed, occupying the remote coastline far from roads, people and tourist vehicles.


Colonies of Cape fur seals
Namibia 2026


Sandwich Harbour from Above


spot some of the vehicles
undertaking the same tour we did yesterday
Namibia 2026


Eventually, we reach Sandwich Harbour — the scene of our spectacular adventure only yesterday (link).

Wedged between the Namib Sand Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Sandwich Harbour is a unique coastal wetland consisting of a northern freshwater wetland and southern mudflats. It is an internationally important wetland and an important refuge for large numbers of waterbirds.

It is quite surreal to see the entire area from above after spending most of yesterday bouncing around it in a Land Rover.

We can even spot some of the vehicles undertaking the same tour we did yesterday.

From this altitude, they are almost ridiculously tiny.

The enormous dunes make the Land Rovers look like miniature toy cars crawling through a sea of sand.


Salt, Flamingos and Walvis Bay


Salt works south of Walvis Bay, rectangular ponds
Namibia 2026


We continue towards the Kuiseb Delta, with its distinctive “hammock dunes”, before reaching the enormous salt works south of Walvis Bay.

From above, the salt pans form an extraordinary geometric pattern of rectangular ponds.

Some of the ponds are vividly pink and red, caused by algae and other microorganisms living in the highly saline water. These colours also contribute to the spectacular appearance of the flamingos that feed in the surrounding wetlands.

The salt works produce hundreds of thousands of tonnes of salt annually for industrial and food use.


Enormous salt works S of Walvis Bay
Namibia 2026


We then fly along the coast of Walvis Bay.

Walvis Bay, once under British and then South African administration, was re-integrated into independent Namibia on 1 March 1994. Today it is Namibia's major deep-water port and an important commercial centre on the Atlantic coast.

Once again, we see large numbers of flamingos around the lagoon.

We saw many of them yesterday.

But from above, the birds, lagoon and surrounding salt pans form an entirely different spectacle.


Walwis Bay, Namibia's major deep-water port
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund from the Air


Swakop and our own little chalets on stilts
 at The Stiltz, lower right corner
Namibia 2026


Finally, we approach Swakopmund.

And there, below us, are our own little chalets on stilts at The Stiltz.

We can even see the pier where we had dinner at The Tug the previous evening.


The pier where we had dinner at The Tug
Namibia 2026


Further along the coast is the newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar, where we are going for dinner tonight.


The newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund is truly beautiful from the air, particularly in the warm light of the setting sun.

The old German colonial buildings dominate the historic centre, standing in striking contrast to the enormous arid landscape surrounding the town.

But from above we also discover something we had barely noticed from ground level: an enormous amount of new development spreading inland from the old town.

It is quite a different perspective on a place we thought we already knew well.


Back to Earth


We have viewed familiar places
 from an entirely new perspective!
Namibia 2026


We turn inland and begin our final approach to Swakopmund Airport.

One last look at the rather rough-and-ready settlement around the airport, and then our pilot smoothly puts the wheels back on the ground.

It is over.

Two hours and approximately 630 kilometres have passed almost unbelievably quickly.

We have seen parts of Namibia that would otherwise have remained completely inaccessible to us, and we have viewed familiar places from an entirely new perspective.

The experience has exceeded our already high expectations.

We feel incredibly privileged.

If you are tempted to do the same journey, you can read more about the Sossusfly and its current route here (link). Sossusfly itself describes it as its most popular scenic flight, covering approximately 630 kilometres in around 2 hours and 10 minutes, with less than 20% of the route visible by road.

There is certainly plenty to talk about over dinner at Ocean Cellar that evening.

Friday, 14 August 2026

Through the Gaub and Kuiseb Passes to Swakopmund

 

Blogger and brother in Kuiseb Pass
 above Kuiseb River canyon
Namibia 2026


After our enjoyable stop in Solitaire, we continue towards Swakopmund, crossing the spectacular Gaub and Kuiseb mountain passes. This is the main tourist route between Swakopmund and Sossusvlei — a beautiful journey through some of the Namib Desert’s most dramatic landscapes.

Solitaire has become noticeably busier since our first visit in 2009. We stop for coffee and some of McGregor’s large cookies, rather than their famous apple pie, before setting off towards the mountains.


At McGregor’s, Solitaire
Namibia 2026 


The Gaub Pass winds through rugged desert terrain, while the Kuiseb Pass follows the dramatic Kuiseb River canyon, cutting through ancient rocky landscapes. We look forward to a booked scenic flight over this area. The road repeatedly rises and falls through barren mountains and dry river valleys, making this one of the most scenic sections of the journey.

As we approach the coast, the landscape gradually changes to flat again. We reach Swakopmund via Walvis Bay and the coastal road, and it is striking to see how much new development is taking place along this stretch.


As we approach the coast
landscape gradually changes to flat again
Namibia 2026


The bay is also dotted with drilling rigs and large vessels. With the recent offshore oil discoveries, it is impossible not to wonder what the future holds for this spectacular coastline.


Busy in Walvis Bay
Taken on scenic flight 2 days later
Namibia 2026


Let's hope Namibia manages to develop its new resources without sacrificing the extraordinary natural environment that makes this coast so special.


Arriving at The Stiltz


Our cabins, built on stilts
On Swakop River bank near ocean
Namibia 2026


In Swakopmund, we check into The Stiltz, a collection of small wooden chalets built on stilts where the Swakop River reaches the Atlantic Ocean.

We have booked the best available sea-view bungalows, with direct views across both the ocean and the river mouth with flammingoes walking around. The location is hard to beat. Tiger Reef Beach Bar is right next door, making it an ideal place for a sunset drink, while the centre of Swakopmund is within easy walking distance.


The view from our window
The Stiltz, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026


The chalets are clearly not brand new, but they are clean, comfortable and perfectly maintained. And the location more than makes up for their age.

The cold coastal nights are no problem either: there are electrically heated mattress pads and an electric heater in the room. There is plenty of hot water in the shower and surprisingly generous space inside.

The property is secured behind a gate that is locked at night, with a friendly security guard on duty. The staff are exceptionally welcoming and helpful.

After the long drive from the desert, it feels good to be back on the Atlantic coast.

We are looking forward to the next few days — and to some wild new adventures in and around Swakopmund!

Link to our previous stay in The Villa, Ocean Breeze (link)

Link to previous trip through Gaub and Kuiseb Passes with more pictures (link)

Monday, 27 July 2026

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast, part 4

On the way to Swakopmund,
Namibia 2024

Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast

After three unforgettable nights in NamibRand, we face one of the longest driving days of the entire journey as we make our way towards Namibia's Atlantic coast.

Rather than attempting the drive in a single day, we have decided to break the journey with an overnight stay at Desert Grace Lodge, a property we have wanted to experience for several years.

Its contemporary architecture contrasts beautifully with the surrounding desert, while every villa enjoys uninterrupted views across the vast plains. Even the private plunge pools look incredibly inviting—although, at this time of year, the water will almost certainly be too cold for anything more than a very brief swim!

The journey itself is part of the adventure. The road crosses two of Namibia's most spectacular mountain passes, Gaub Pass and Kuiseb Pass, both offering dramatic scenery and fascinating geology. If you would like to know more about these remarkable routes, you can read about our previous drive through the passes here (Gaub & Kuiseb 2024).


Swakopmund, Sandwich Harbour and a Flight Above the Namib

Eventually the desert gives way to the cool Atlantic Ocean as we arrive in Swakopmund, Namibia's charming coastal town with its unmistakable German colonial heritage.

This time we will be staying at The Stiltz, an unusual lodge where wooden chalets stand on stilts overlooking the Swakop River lagoon, the Atlantic Ocean and the edge of the Namib Desert.

On previous visits we stayed at the nearby Desert Breeze Lodge, which we can warmly recommend. Both properties share the same owners, so we are looking forward to discovering whether The Stiltz lives up to the high standards we experienced before. Judging by its unique location, it certainly has every chance.

As always, we have planned plenty of memorable experiences during our stay.

One full day will be devoted to a guided excursion to Sandwich Harbour with Turnstone Tours. Few places in Africa are as spectacular as the point where towering sand dunes plunge directly into the Atlantic Ocean, and driving along the beach beneath these giant dunes remains one of Namibia's truly iconic experiences.

Naturally, excellent food also forms part of the itinerary. One evening we will return to The Tug, one of Swakopmund's best-known restaurants, while another dinner is already reserved at Ocean Cellar, where we have previously enjoyed some of the finest seafood anywhere in Southern Africa.


On the way to Sandwich Harbour,
Namibia 2024

Perhaps the most exciting experience of all, however, awaits from the air.

For the first time, we have chartered a Cessna scenic flight to experience Namibia from an entirely different perspective. During more than two hours in the air, the flight covers approximately 630 kilometres, revealing landscapes that few visitors ever see from the ground.

Flying above the towering dunes of the Namib Desert, the dramatic coastline of the Skeleton Coast, forgotten shipwrecks and vast empty wilderness promises to be one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences that will remain with us forever.

If everything goes according to plan—and the landing is as smooth as the take-off—it may well become the highlight of the entire journey. You can read about the flight here (Sossusfly Excursion) and see a video here (Sossusfly on Yotube)


Source link airchraft fleet


Friday, 27 September 2024

Driving through Solitaire, Gaub and Kuiseb Pass

The long day double pass adventure!


Leaving overhanging Cliff Picnic Spot, Kuiseb Pass,
Namibia, 2024.

We leave Namibrand Nature reserve early morning heading for Desert Breeze Lodge in Swakopmund. It´s a very long drive along C27 through the nature reserve to famous Sesriem, and then along C19 to Solitaire, our lunch stop! Afterwards, C14 through the two mountain passes Gaub and Kuiseb in Namib desert. It turns out to take 8 hours including lunch, coffee and photo stops.

Solitaire - "Bagdad Cafe" in Namibia!

We lelave NamibRand at 6:30 in the morning heading for Swakopmund. This will be a very long drive! After approx. 4 hours with very limited trafic on the gravel track, we stop for brunch in Solitaire, a small settlement known for its unique charm. It’s a popular stopover for travelers exploring the Namib Desert, either on the way in (like us) or coming out of the desert. 

Scattered around Solitaire, we see old, rusted cars and trucks, which have become a quirky part of its charm. It really reminds us of the film "Bagdad Cafe"! I expect Jasmin to appear at any time! Solitaire's charm lies in its simplicity and the stark beauty of the desert environment surrounding it. It’s wild west, and even though it is small, but expanding every time we visit, it serves as a unique and memorable waypoint for travelers.


Solitaire, Namibia, 2009.

Bakery, Solitaire, Namibia, 2024.

Petrol station, Solitaire, Namibia, 2024.


Gaub Pass

About 50 km north of Solitaire, we cross the Tropic of Capricorn, which marks the most southerly latitude at which the sun can appear directly overhead at noon, entering Gaub Pass. The pass is located between the Kuiseb and Gaub riverbeds and provides breathtaking views of the surrounding Namib Desert landscape. The drive through Gaub Pass reveals dramatic scenery with steep, winding roads cutting through rocky terrain and deep ravines. Along the way, we can see all the ancient rock layers stacked upon each other - my brother would love to tell us about the geology - next time ;-) The road through Gaub Pass is gravel and can be challenging, but fortunately it’s not the rainy season and we are in a capable 4x4 vehicle, never speeding.


Ancient rock layers, Namibia, 2009.


Kuiseb Pass

After turning west into the desert, we reach the perhaps more impressive Kuiseb Pass. We witness the stark contrast between the arid desert landscape and the deep river canyon - we make sure to stay on the road while we navigate steep inclines, sharp bends, and narrow sections requiring careful and experienced driving! 


Kuiseb Pass view to the arid desert landscape
and the deep river canyon,
Namibia, 2024.


'We have spectacular views of the Kuiseb River, which the pass crosses. The Kuiseb River is a crucial feature in the Namib Desert. Although it is often dry, the riverbed can fill rapidly during rare but intense rainfall events. The river acts as a natural barrier preventing the northern movement of the sand dunes, creating a distinct boundary between the dune sea and the gravel plains. 


Our friends leaving the  
'Overhanging Cliff Picnic Spot',
Kuiseb Pass, Namibia, 2024.


In Kuiseb Pass, we see a marker for the 'Overhanging Cliff Picnic Spot' on Tracks4Africa. It looks intriguing and perfect for a small coffee break. I remember the place from a previous visit, when I thought there was a very steep descent and ascent to the overhanging cave. But this time, we’re in powerful Land Cruisers that can handle the terrain. So, we take the exciting route! A fantastic little 4x4 adventure! Only go if 4x4 and 4L + diff. lock and high ground clearence. If you don´t know what this is, don´t go for it ;-)


Long flat route after Kuiseb Pass, only tar close to 
Walwis Bay, Namibia, 2024.


After leaving the pass, we venture into the dune sea and long flat route to Swakopmund.


Desert Breeze Lodge in Swakopmund


Desert Breeze, views of the Namib Desert
directly from the bed, Namibia, 2019. 

Finally, after a very long 8 hours drive (!), we check into our private villa in Swakopmund! We have three large bedrooms with panoramic views of the Swakop River and Namib Desert directly from the bed through large windows and our private terraces. The villa also features a fully equipped kitchenette, a cozy living area, a fireplace, and two well-appointed bathrooms with showers. In the coming days, we look forward to a catamaran sailing tour and a Sandwich Harbour 4x4 expedition! We feel humbled and privileged to experince all these adventures with good friends.

 

Catamaran Sailing Tour, Walvis Bay,
Namibia, 2024.

Blog author "attacked by pelican",
Walvis Bay, Namibia 2024.


Sunday, 11 August 2019

Swakopmund is Namibias principal coast town and adventure place

"Swakop" is sourrounded by the Namib Desert on three sides and the South Atlantic cold waters to the vest

After arriving in Namibia, we went directly to the coastal town of Swakopmund (Swakop), where we relaxed for three days. Swakop is reportedly Namibia´s premier holiday resort, but it is still a very relaxed town by any western standards. In the center of town, you see several old colonial "German" buildings.

In and arouns Swakop, there are lots of activities, and you can visit most places in town by foot (take a taxi at night).  Link to description of activities (link). Swakop has become known as a centre for adventure travel, and it´s attracting adventurous visitors seeking ‘adrenalin’ trips. There are numerous options, from free-fall parachuting to dune-bike riding and sandboarding. However, after a busy work year and just arrived in Namibia, we decided to use our time in Swakop to relax.

Not exactly relaxing,
our children climbing dune 7 outside Walwis Bay
A popular place to go sandboarding. Namibia 2019.

Sam´s Giardino

Booking late, we could not get accommodation the same place for all three nights. Thus, we stayed at "Sam´s Giardino" the first night (link). Sam´s Giardine is a comfortable old guesthouse in the outskirts of Swakop. We also stayed here 10 years ago and nothing has really changed. The owner is a very kind and talkative person full of interesting stories, but in order to go 10 more years with visitors, the place needs an update. Nevertheless, it was a nice place to stay.

Behind the wall at Sam´s Giardino, there is a nice garden
Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

Peacefull garden Sam´s Giardino
Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

Desert Breeze

Afterwards, we stayed two nights in the villa at Desert Breeze (link). This was really an extraordinary place. We had spectacular views of the Namib Desert’s sand dunes directly from our three bedrooms. The design is quirky and colorful and the facilities in the villa perfect.

Relaxation in front of the fireplace in the villa at Desert Breeze
An extraordinary nice place to stay in Swakopmund
Namibia 2019

Own enclosed patio at the villa Desert Breeze
Namibia 2019

View from the terrace at the villa Desert Breeze
Namibia 2019

The design, Desert Lodge, Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

The Mole area

On the Mole, Palm Beach Bay, Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

Strand Hotel Swakopmund, Farmhouse Deli
Nice place for lunch, Namibia 2019

First day, we walked around The Mole area in the center of town. The mole was intended as a harbor wall when first built, but the ocean currents continually shifted the sandbanks and effectively blocked the harbor before it was finished. The result is a protected area offering a good beach "Palm Beach". Yet, there is a warning against swimming everywhere and the water is very chilly due to the cold Benguela Current. There is also a children’s playground near the beach and nice restaurants and cafes nearby. We had especially good experiences with seafood at Ocean Cellar celebrating our 25 yrs. wedding day and a nice lunch at Farmhouse Deli nearby.

Kristall Galerie

Kristall Galerie, Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

Kristall Galerie, Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

Kristall Galerie, Swakopmund, Namibia 2019  

First morning, we visited the Kristall Galerie, which is housed in a modern building. The Galerie claims to have the largest crystal in the world. There are lots of  semi-precious stones, a replica of the original Otjua tourmaline mine, and a craft area. There’s a shop, of course, with semi-precious stones available in many guises. It’s well worth a visit by anyone fascinated by geology and Namibia.

largest crystal in the world on display?
Kristall Galerie, Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

Walwis Bay, dune 7

Walvis Bay (meaning ‘whale bay’) seems larger and more spaced out than Swakopmund, though also quieter and slightly lacking in character. Most of the town’s activities centre around the lagoon. There are many activities (link). We took a kayak trips in the lagoon at Pelican Point and visited "dune 7". You can also do boat trips from the yacht club.  You can read about the kayak trip in anoter blog (link)



Dune 7 was a nice stop, but there are many more interesting dunes in Namibia, especially in Sandwich Harbour

Dune 7, outside Walwis Bay, Namibia 2019