Showing posts with label Ugab River Gate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ugab River Gate. Show all posts

Monday, 12 August 2019

Terrace Bay Skeleton Coast; another planet?

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet


Terrace Bay next morning, another planet?
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Leaving Terrace Bay next morning
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Still on Skeleton Coast, after our "unlucky episode" trapped in a salt pan near the Winston Wreck (!) (link), we reach Terrace Bay Restcamp after the longest possible drive north along Skeleton Coast. Indeed, Terrace Bay is the furthest north that visitors can drive along C34 on the coast from the Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park.

Ugab River Gate, the enterence to Skeleton Coast Park
166 kms before Terrace Bay

Driving along Skeleton Coast at night

When we passed Torra Bay, where there were what looked as some abandoned shacks, it had become dark. Normally, you should not drive in Skeleton Coast Park in darkness, as it is an incredibly deserted area with wild animals and no help anywhere nearby, but the friendly staff at the Ugab River Gate, who helped us save the car, allowed us to drive into the National Park in order to reach our destination (and prepaid booking) at Terrace Bay if we promised to drive directly to Terrace Bay with no deviations and stick to the main track. Also, we promised the kind staff at Ugab River Gate to call when we arrived. They wanted to make sure we were safe and had no problems with the car.

We drove very carefully, but determined, all 166 kms. It is not an area where you want the car to breakdown. We saw many jackals, but no lions - they rarely walk all the way to the coast.

We didn't want to visit more shipwrecks down tracks off the main track!!

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp

When we finally reached Terrace Bay Restcamp it was like arriving at another planet. Everything seemed abandoned. The main reception was closed and we couldn't find any people or staff. At least, thjere were signs of civilization. As we were driving around for a while in this dark and deserted lunar base, we saw light in the distance. We found a way to the light. It turned out to be the restaurant (basic cafeteria), where we were greeted by friendly staff. No one had missed us.

We got our huge Beach Chatlet with five bedrooms, three bathrooms, large living room and kitchen. Completely surreal. Everything was simple but functional and clean. You sense it was originally built for the mine staff until the goverment took over in 1977.

We slept exceptionally well that night

We slept exceptionally well that night. The roaring sea and the wind did not keep us awake. Surprisingly, I did not dream of being dragged into quicksand

Our garden in the desert in the middle of nowhere
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our house (beach chalet)
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our sleeping quarters, simple but clean
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Heading for breakfast in the "restaurant"
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Our kitchen in the beach chalet
Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019

Saturday, 3 August 2019

We are in serious problems on the Skeleton Coast!


Warning, don´t try to drive to Winston wreck!!


We decide to make a little deviation from our route to visit the shipwreck.
Turns out to be a major error

We drive along the Skeleton Coast. We are nearly 200 kms north of Swakopmund, just 12 km before the Ugab River Gate, which is the gateway to the "Skeleton Coast Park". We drive on a very deserted part of Namibia's west coast called the “National West Coast Tourist Recreation Area". This part of Namibia´s coast is known for it´s many shipwrecks. On the left hand, we see a sign for "Wreck of the Winston". Winston is a large fishing boat that grounded in 1970. It lies off the coast about 5 kms from the "main track". In theory, you can reach it by a small rutted track off the main track.

C34 road from Swakopmund via Henties Bay
to Ugab River Gate and Skeleton Coast Park

Brilliant idea?!

It sounds exciting? We decide to make a little deviation from our route to visit the shipwreck. This turns out to be a major error!! There are no other people nearby. This area is very deserted. Initially, the dirt road is OK although severely corrugated. At the end of the corrugated road, there is no ship wreck nearby, but we can glimpse a wreck a few kilometers to the south in the stormy sea. It looks impressive in the binoculars. We decide to follow the many tracks in the sand heading south parallel to the shoreline. In the beginning it´s fine, but the track gets more and more humid. We can still glimse the wreck in the distance. Also, on the coastline, we glimpse a lone 4-wheeler with fishermen heading south – but they are quickly gone in the horizon. There are only a few hundreds of meters to the shoreline where the fishermen were driving. For a short moment, I consider whether it is too uncertain to head for the shoreline but it seems OK.

We try to dig out the wheels and put rocks and driftwood beneath.
The car will not come free

Disaster - we are stuck!

A disaster! The front of our car sinks into soft sand in a salt pan. We're completely stuck. We try to dig out the wheels and put rocks and driftwood beneath. It is quickly clear, that the car will not come free without help. Not good at all. The nearest aid is at Henties Bay which is more than 100 km away. Very long to walk! It's about 5 km. to the main track where other cars occasionally pass by.

We collect the most important papers and some water for the walk towards the main track. I have  my GPS with "Tracks4Africa" and a powerbank. At least we know exactly where we are. We also quickly grab some extra warm clothes. Just in case we have to stay out all night. We lock the car and hope there is no tider. Still not an eye to see.

What do we do?

We follow our own cars track back along the coast towards the perpendicular track west to the main road. We are tempted to cross a moist sand area to save some kilometers walk but decide not to (given our new very recent experience with moist sand!). My children and my wife are so calm despite the difficult situation. How cool they are. They just accept the situation although it is not harmless. We are in one of the most desolate places in Namibia, which is the second most desolate country in the world. We see jackals in the distance.

Black-backed jackal, Skeleton Coast Park, Namibia 2019
Scavenging for scraps

Hallelujah - thank you Italy

Hallelujah, after approx. 20 minutes walk, we see a car in the distance driving down the corrugated track. We wave with our arms everything we've learned. The car keeps to the distance. You do not just drive towards strangers at this desolate place. Fortunately, they decide to approach us. A young very friendly and helpful couple from Italy. They pick us up in the trunk and and we drive towards our stranded car. It is quickly clear that it is dangerous to get too close to our car. We park at a safe distance.

We collect all luggage from the car and the four of ys crawl into the trunck of the Italians car. During the trip to the main rtrack, I remember we are only about 20 kms from the Ugab River Gate, which is the entrance to Skeleton Park. I seems to recall reading somewhere that national park staff will be there.

We unload all our luggage at Ugab River Gate, Namibia 2019

Thanks staff at Ugab River Gate

We quickly drive to the Ugab River Gate, where the friendly staff helps us to call the car rental company and a towing company in Henties Bay. We accept the price (not cheap even for Danish standards – but we are not in a good barging situation).

After 2 hours of nerve-wracking waiting for a towing truck, and then another 1.5 hours driving out saving the rental car and back again, we are on our way again
"what doesn't kill you makes you stronger"
I am so glad we got away from this situation all well. We have been to Africa several times driving four-wheel cars in remote areas without getting stuck. It's a pity that the first time should be in such an extreme place!

High lift jack under the towing hook, sandboards and a wire from the Land Rover

Land Rover and sandboards, Namibai 2019

Removing wire again, Namibia 2019

Winston road = turist trap

The owner of the towing company that pulls us free says we are no. 81 he rescue at this particular place !! It is a tourist trap. There is a nice sign for "Wreck of the Winston", and a good road in the beginning, but it ends in a murky salt pan where everyone get stuck.

We are deeply grateful that we got off well - and that the car got off well.
A lot of cleaning and we are off again for new (but safer) adventures.

Finally, we got through the gate - we will arrive after dark a Terrace Bay!