Into the Kaokoveld, Africa´s last wilderness?

From Palmwag to Opuwo, we are approaching the wilderness in the north

Hard to leave  the nice Palmwag area
Palmwag Lodge, Namibia 2019

Harsh desert, drifting sanddunes and rocky mountains

The 233 kms route from Palmwag Lodge to Opuwo

The Kaokoveld is one of Africa´s last wilderness and one of the least inhibited areas in Namibia. It´s  a harsh desert of drifting sanddunes and rocky mountains. It receives most of its rainfall during the summer, which distinguishes it from the adjacent Namib Desert to the south, which receives most of its rain during the winter. The Kunene River, which we are heading for after resting in Opuwo, is the only permanent watercourse, but Kaokoveld has many riverbeds (including the Hoanib, Hoarusib and Khumib Rivers) that are dry most of the year. However under the sand, sometimes surfacing, they carry moisture through the desert and are home to animals including e.g. desert adapted elephants, black rhinos and giraffe. Other than the riverbeds, the area is ancient desert sand only moistened by occasional coastal fog (source). Kaokoveld is divided into the two areas, Damaraland in the south, and Kaokoland in the north, all now officially known as Kunene Region.

Never leave the track

Video of the C43 road efter living Palmwag towards Sesfontain in 2012 (we forgot to take pictures and videos this time)

When we pass north of the town Sesfontain, we enter the land of the Himba tribe. On these remote "roads" we really need our high-clearance 4WD car and enough fuel and supplies for the expedition. Normally, we say 10 liters of water per person per day in case of emergencies if we get stranded. Also, we newer leave the track. If we stay to the track, someone are likely to pass within a few days. To keep to the track and always know where we are, we use "Tracks4Africa" which we have on our cell phones - at least on more than one cell phone. Also, we carry a god old map and a compass. Ideally, you always want to be two cars in the party, but that is not always possible.

On the C43 road from Palmwag to Sesfontain
Namibia 2012 

On the C43 road from Palmwag to Sesfontain
Namibia 2012

On the C43 road from Palmwag to Sesfontain
Namibia 2012

Fort Sesfontain

You migt want to visit the town Sesfontain and the fort on the way to Opuwo, we did so previously. The town is set between mountains in the Hoanib Valley. It used to be an important "German" military outpost. Today, it still feels like an outpost, but in a relaxed and nice way. The most well known landmark of Sesfontein is Fort Sesfontein, which was erected in 1896, according to Wiki as a police outpost by Schutztruppe soldiers of Imperial Germany. It was abandoned in 1914 and fell into disrepair soon thereafter. The fort was reconstructed in the 1990s and is now equipped to accommodate tourists.

Opuwo Country Lodge, infinity pool.
Nice to reach after a long drive, Namibia 2019