Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Sleeping under a blanket of stars!

"Trek through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot, have sundowners as you look out over never ending vistas of ancient rock formations and sleep under a blanket of stars. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to connect with nature" (source)

Just started on the three days Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail at sunset
Heading for River Camp, approx. 4 kms. from our drop off point
Etendeka Mountains, Namibia 2019 

We were picked up at Palmwag Lodge at 4 p.m. We were very excited and perhaps also a bit nervous. We were going to trek through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot. We drove about 20 minutes to the starting point. We where about to hike approx. 25 kilometers into the Etendeka Mountains. The open Land Rover drove off the small trail onto a small dry riverbed where we set out. We were our family of four people and a very friendly family, likewise of four people, from Switzerland. Our guide Boas briefed us on the trip.

Our guide Boas briefed us on the trip
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

First, a short 3-4 kilometer hike along the dry riverbed to River Camp. The next day, an approx. 14 km long walk up to Mountain Camp, near the top of Crystal Mountain. All through the deserted Etendeka plains and mountains. This is an area with "cats" (we were prepared link), hyenas and black rhinos. Usually the animals are very shy. As Boas said:

"the biggest risk is to sprain the ankle"

We believed him.

The remains of a giraffe, on our way River Camp
It's a harsh climate!
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

After a lovely walk along the dry river bed and over a small hill, we reached Rivercamp, which lies on the banks of another dry river bed. In this camp, there are five sleeping platforms where you can sleep relatively safe under the open sky. The two platforms lie a little by themselves on one side of the common area, while the other three lie on the other side. There is no big difference no matter which platform you get. On each platform we found two camp beds with bedrols. The bedrols consisted of a waterproof bivouac coatings (which should prove to be very useful). Then duvet, pillow and a bed sheet. Everything was fine and clean and was ready for use when we arrived.

View to stars at night
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Me and my sons sleeping platform
The next morning everything was wet with dew (not normal)
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Our large luggage had been driven to the camp in advance. Pure luxury. In a bag at the end of the field bed, we found a thick blanket, and on a small table, there was a flashlight. Nearby a flush toilet (!) and a nice bucket shower. The bucket shower was a bucket upside down with a shower head. Surprisingly for us, there was also solar heated hot water that could be poured into the bucket. Everything was tastefully built of rusty steel and gabions (steel mesh with stone in it), so it fell nicely into nature.

The bucket shower was a bucket upside down with a shower head,
here at Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

At sunset, our guide and his two helpers had lit bonfires and prepared our dinner. Chicken pot and fried vegetables made on the bonfire. How nice to sit by the fire and enjoy G&T while darkness creeps in and you can hear the crackle of the bonfire and the sounds of the night.

Enjoying a  G&T while darkness creeps in and we hear
the crackle of the bonfire and the sounds of the night.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

At night, my son and I were on the same platform talking about the moon and the stars. My son saw two shooting stars and a satellite pass across the sky. What a completely enchanting evening and night. It reminds me of a specific night at me and my son's trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, you can read more in Danish here (link).

Heading for Mountain Camp early next morning (in the distance)
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The next day, we went the long beautiful hike through the Etendeka Mountains to the top of Crystal Mountain. We saw many animal tracks and remains, which Boes carefully explained to us. We saw stools from black rhinos and hyenas and from more "harmless animals". We also saw giraffes and springbooks. We passed "Lions Spring", a spring still flowing and we went over hill ridges and plains.

Short break enjoying the view
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The last part of the trip was the ascent to the edge of Crystal Mountain. Everywhere, there were crystals "spread around" on the ground by volcanic activity 130 million years ago. The crystals got more and more colorful the closer we got to the top of Crystal Mountain.

Everywhere, there were crystals "spread around"
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Crystal Mountain Camp is one of the most incredible places we have ever stayed (!)

Daughter relaxing at Mountain Camp, the roof can be removed
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Again, we were sleeping on platforms in Gods own free nature. Now, we had miles of mountain and plain views from the rim of Crystal Mountain. There was no disturbing light at all, only the incredible starry sky.

Sleeping platforms, Mountain Camp
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Sunset view from Mountain Camp, Crystal Mountain
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Again, we got food cooked on bonfire, enjoyed in silence watching the serene yet harsh nature. It doesn't get much better than that.

Bonfire, Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The next day we hiked down the mountain to Etendeka Mountain Camp, from where we were driven approx. 2 hours out of the Etendeka area to Palmwag Lodge where our Toyota Fortuner was waiting for us.

Walking down the mountain to Etendeka Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

New experiences awaited, including a long drive north to the Angolean border at Epupa Fall´s. We are heading for an area we have never seen before. An area where it is recommended to drive two cars together and bring at least 10 liters of water per person per day (!). Read more about that adventure later ;-)