Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Trekking through one of Namibia’s most remote & untouched landscapes on foot!

My wife, Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
One of Namibia’s most remote and untouched
landscapes on foot, Namibia, 2024.

We are trekking through , looking out over never-ending vistas of ancient rock formations, and sleeping under a blanket of starts trekking in one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot! 

This is a remote wilderness covering 50,000 hectares of authentic nature. There are no fences or wildlife management, and the animals are free to move in and out of the area depending on the time of year, their movements driven by food and water.

Camp 1, view from bed at night!
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

First day

On the first day, we were picked up at Palmwag Lodge at 4 p.m. We are very excited and perhaps a bit nervous. We drive about 20 minutes to the starting point, where we are to hike approximately 25 kilometers into the Etendeka Mountains. 

'The open Land Rover drive ove off the small trail onto a dry riverbed where we set out. My wife, our friends from Denmark, and I are ready for the adventure! For our friends, this is their first time on the Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, whereas my wife and I explored the trail in 2019, at that time with our two adult children (link). 

Our guide Edwin briefs us on the trip,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

Our guide Edwin briefs us on the trip. First, we have a short 3-4 kilometer hike along the dry riverbed to River Camp. The next day, we have to walk approximately 14 kilometers up to Mountain Camp, near the top of Crystal Mountain. This journey will take us through the deserted Etendeka plains and mountains, an area with "cats" (we were prepared), hyenas, and black rhinos. Usually, the animals are very shy. 

Walk along dry riverbed

After a lovely walk along the dry riverbed and over a small hill, we reach River Camp, which lies on the banks of another dry riverbed. In this camp, there are sleeping platforms where you can sleep relatively safely under the open sky. Our platforms lie a little apart on one side of the common area, while the other are on the other side. There is no significant difference no matter which platform you get. On each platform, there is two camp beds with bedrolls. The bedrolls consists of waterproof bivouac coverings (which proved very useful), duvets, pillows, and bed sheets. Everything is clean and ready for use when we arrive.

Our sleaping platform, Staff bring luggage,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

Our large luggage had been driven to the camp in advance. Pure luxury. In a bag at the end of the field bed, we find a thick blanket, and on a small table, there is a flashlight. Nearby the platform, a flush toilet (!) and a nice bucket shower next to the main area. The bucket shower is a bucket upside down with a showerhead. Surprisingly, there is solar-heated hot water that can be poured into the bucket. Everything has been tastefully built of rusty steel and gabions (steel mesh with stones in it), blending nicely into nature.

Gabions (steel mesh with stones),
blending nicely into nature.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

At sunset, our guide and his two helpers had lit bonfires and prepared our dinner. How nice to sit by the fire, enjoy G&T while darkness creaps in, and listen to the crackle of the bonfire and the sounds of the night.

At night, my wife and I lay on the platform, talking about the moon and the stars. I saw a shooting star one minute after laying down? And the most spectacular milkey way (see photo above). What a completely enchanting evening and night. It reminded me of a specific night on my son's and my trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, which you can read more about in Danish here (link).

Giraffe skeleton,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2014.

Elephant track on our track!!
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

The next day, we embark on the long, beautiful hike through the Etendeka Mountains to the top of Crystal Mountain. We see many animal tracks and remains, which our guide carefully explains to us. We also see droppings from black rhinos and hyenas and from more "harmless animals." And we see springboks and Kudus. We pass "Lions Spring," a spring still flowing, and we cross hill ridges and plains.

Ascent to the edge of Crystal Mountain,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

The last part of the trip is the ascent to the edge of Crystal Mountain. Everywhere, there are crystals "spread around" on the ground by volcanic activity 130 million years ago. The crystals become more and morte colorful the closer we got to the top of Crystal Mountain.

Crystals everywhere,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

Mountain Camp is one of the most remote and peaceful places to stay. You sleep on platforms at the edge of a canyon with the most incredible view of the flat-topped mountains in the Etendeka Range. Meals are enjoyed around the campfire with an amazing view! We have a sundowner G&T on the edge of the mountain, watching six ridges between us and the setting sun! The next day, we hike about 10 km back to the main camp. Along the way, we spot black rhino droppings, lion, and cheetah tracks!! But thankfully, no cats ;-) You definitely keep a close eye behind you after that!!

Mountain Camp, Sleaping platform,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

Sundowner, Mountain Camp, Namibia, 2024.

Sundowner, Mountain Camp, Namibia, 2024.

Lion tracks on way back to Main,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

Conclusions, Crystal Mountain Camp is still one of the most incredible places we have ever stayed! Sleaping on platforms in God's own free nature with miles of mountain and plain views from the rim of Crystal Mountain. There was no disturbing light at all, only the incredible starry sky. 

Our five best walking experiences in Namibia & bonus

Walking in Erongo Mountains

Best walking trails / tours in Namibia?

It´s hard to rank our best walking experiences in Namibia. We tend to like all the activities we book, and we like new challenges. However, based on five times in Namibia for 4-5 weeks every time, this is our “top five walking experiences in Namibia" (you are free to share links). 

The two first are shared number ones:

• Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Crystal Mountain Camp

We trekked through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot in 2019. Had sundowners overlooking never ending vistas of ancient rock formations and slept under a blanket of amazing stars. This was a unique opportunity to connect with nature. Especially Crystal Mountain Camp, we found to be one of the most incredible places we have ever stayed. The only thing we would do different next time: Stay out an extra night at Crystal Mountain (3 night’s tour instead of 2). 

Read our full Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail report here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2019/08/etendeka-overnight-walking-trail.html ).

Also, read our description of the Etendeka Plateau, an unique hauntingly beautiful desolate landscape here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2019/08/etendeka-plateau-unique-hauntingly.html 

• Walking in Mundulea Private Reserve

Walking safari,
Mundulea Private Reserve

Mundulea, our tent

We did this walk 14 days ago. We walked for three days (3 nights) with the owner and specialist guide Bruno. He was an absolute extraordinary person with extreme knowledge about the nature. He literally knows all about plants, animals, insects, minerals, landscaping etc, and he is involved in multiple research projects and nature activities. Also, he has served as a photographer for National Geographic.  Our camp had the outline of a “kraal”; a fence of wooden sticks provide some protection against predators during night. We slept in simple – but fully adequate – tents with mosquito nets and an open bathroom. We checked the floor for snakes and scorpions, whenever we stepped out of our bed or entered the open-air bathroom. Our shoes were placed on hangers under the roof and bags kept zipped on tables all time. Nevertheless, we felt completely safe in this small paradise. Or as Bruno expressed it “Don´t mind all the sounds during the night, you are safe in your tent".  Every day, we did two daily walks 2-5 hours with Bruno as an extraordinary source of nature information.

Read our full Mundulea report here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/10/did-you-see-leopard.html

Read our story about “the tiger” a Mundulea here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/10/a-tiger-tiger-tiger.html

Now for the shared number two:

•  Tok Tokkie Trails in Namibrand Nature Reserve

Open air bedroom, Tok Tokkie Trails

This was a three days (2 nights) walking experience in stunning Namibrand Nature Reserve. We were exposed to extreme temperatures, but also to truly spectacular nature and an overwhelming night sky. We covered approx. 20 km in Namibrand Nature Reserve on foot and slept in open air. Wherever we looked around, we were surrounded by red / brown mountains and desert plains.

Read our full report on Tok Tokkie Trails here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/11/tok-tokkie-trails-namib-desert.html )

•  Walking with Bushmen i Kalahari Desert near Tsumkwe

Our son, Central Kalahari 2012,
(did not have 2009 photos at hand)

We stayed at Nhoma village for 2 nights in 2009 together with our children, at that time 9 and 10 years old. This is still one of our most memorable experiences in Namibia, especially doing it together with our children. We walked through Kalahari Desert with the bushmen for up to 7 hours per day and visited their nearby village. Our children learned how to make fire, make bird traps (and did catch birds!), catch a porcupine, and how to get honey from a hollow tree etc. The children played with the children in Nhoma village, and we all participated in games and dances in the evening. At the same time, we slept in nice and comfortable surroundings in Nhoma Safari Camp.

I heard there is new owners now, but from the homepage, it seems to be the same concept. Might not be an experience for everyone, especially if you don´t like to interact.

Link to Nhoma Safari Camp homepage https://www.nhomasafaricamp.com/

Least but not last:

• Quivertree George Trail / Arch Trail in Naukluft mountains

Quivertree George Trail

Quivertree George Trail, klipspringer

Rock Arch

We headed for the Quivertree George Walking Trail from BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse. At the end of the day, this turned out to be one of the most fantastic trails we have hiked in Africa so far! Perhaps only surpassed by the "Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail" (see above) and our recent 3 days walking safari in Mundulea Private Reserve (see above). However, they were both several-days walking experiences, whereas Quivertree George Trail is a 5-7 hours tour. Next day, we took the “Arch trail”, truly magnificent! 

There are many good walking trails starting from BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse, where we had our comfortable base and enjoyed extraordinary hospitality from the owners and genuine friendly staff.

Read our full report Quivertree George Trail here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/10/quivertree-gorge-trail-excellent-route.html ) 

Finally, two recommended experiences outside Namibia:

Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997

• Another amazing experience was to trek through the Chimanimani Mountains in Zimbabwe 1997  – but that is not Namibia
•  And walking alone in the untouched tropical rainforest of Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda for two days (take a guide!! - but that is another story)

 Link to https://www.nyungweforestnationalpark.org/untouched-tropical-rainforest/

Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Sleeping under a blanket of stars!

"Trek through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot, have sundowners as you look out over never ending vistas of ancient rock formations and sleep under a blanket of stars. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to connect with nature" (source)

Just started on the three days Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail at sunset
Heading for River Camp, approx. 4 kms. from our drop off point
Etendeka Mountains, Namibia 2019 

We were picked up at Palmwag Lodge at 4 p.m. We were very excited and perhaps also a bit nervous. We were going to trek through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot. We drove about 20 minutes to the starting point. We where about to hike approx. 25 kilometers into the Etendeka Mountains. The open Land Rover drove off the small trail onto a small dry riverbed where we set out. We were our family of four people and a very friendly family, likewise of four people, from Switzerland. Our guide Boas briefed us on the trip.

Our guide Boas briefed us on the trip
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

First, a short 3-4 kilometer hike along the dry riverbed to River Camp. The next day, an approx. 14 km long walk up to Mountain Camp, near the top of Crystal Mountain. All through the deserted Etendeka plains and mountains. This is an area with "cats" (we were prepared link), hyenas and black rhinos. Usually the animals are very shy. As Boas said:

"the biggest risk is to sprain the ankle"

We believed him.

The remains of a giraffe, on our way River Camp
It's a harsh climate!
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

After a lovely walk along the dry river bed and over a small hill, we reached Rivercamp, which lies on the banks of another dry river bed. In this camp, there are five sleeping platforms where you can sleep relatively safe under the open sky. The two platforms lie a little by themselves on one side of the common area, while the other three lie on the other side. There is no big difference no matter which platform you get. On each platform we found two camp beds with bedrols. The bedrols consisted of a waterproof bivouac coatings (which should prove to be very useful). Then duvet, pillow and a bed sheet. Everything was fine and clean and was ready for use when we arrived.

View to stars at night
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Me and my sons sleeping platform
The next morning everything was wet with dew (not normal)
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Our large luggage had been driven to the camp in advance. Pure luxury. In a bag at the end of the field bed, we found a thick blanket, and on a small table, there was a flashlight. Nearby a flush toilet (!) and a nice bucket shower. The bucket shower was a bucket upside down with a shower head. Surprisingly for us, there was also solar heated hot water that could be poured into the bucket. Everything was tastefully built of rusty steel and gabions (steel mesh with stone in it), so it fell nicely into nature.

The bucket shower was a bucket upside down with a shower head,
here at Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

At sunset, our guide and his two helpers had lit bonfires and prepared our dinner. Chicken pot and fried vegetables made on the bonfire. How nice to sit by the fire and enjoy G&T while darkness creeps in and you can hear the crackle of the bonfire and the sounds of the night.

Enjoying a  G&T while darkness creeps in and we hear
the crackle of the bonfire and the sounds of the night.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

At night, my son and I were on the same platform talking about the moon and the stars. My son saw two shooting stars and a satellite pass across the sky. What a completely enchanting evening and night. It reminds me of a specific night at me and my son's trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, you can read more in Danish here (link).

Heading for Mountain Camp early next morning (in the distance)
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The next day, we went the long beautiful hike through the Etendeka Mountains to the top of Crystal Mountain. We saw many animal tracks and remains, which Boes carefully explained to us. We saw stools from black rhinos and hyenas and from more "harmless animals". We also saw giraffes and springbooks. We passed "Lions Spring", a spring still flowing and we went over hill ridges and plains.

Short break enjoying the view
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The last part of the trip was the ascent to the edge of Crystal Mountain. Everywhere, there were crystals "spread around" on the ground by volcanic activity 130 million years ago. The crystals got more and more colorful the closer we got to the top of Crystal Mountain.

Everywhere, there were crystals "spread around"
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Crystal Mountain Camp is one of the most incredible places we have ever stayed (!)

Daughter relaxing at Mountain Camp, the roof can be removed
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Again, we were sleeping on platforms in Gods own free nature. Now, we had miles of mountain and plain views from the rim of Crystal Mountain. There was no disturbing light at all, only the incredible starry sky.

Sleeping platforms, Mountain Camp
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Sunset view from Mountain Camp, Crystal Mountain
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Again, we got food cooked on bonfire, enjoyed in silence watching the serene yet harsh nature. It doesn't get much better than that.

Bonfire, Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The next day we hiked down the mountain to Etendeka Mountain Camp, from where we were driven approx. 2 hours out of the Etendeka area to Palmwag Lodge where our Toyota Fortuner was waiting for us.

Walking down the mountain to Etendeka Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

New experiences awaited, including a long drive north to the Angolean border at Epupa Fall´s. We are heading for an area we have never seen before. An area where it is recommended to drive two cars together and bring at least 10 liters of water per person per day (!). Read more about that adventure later ;-)