Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Sleeping under a blanket of stars!

"Trek through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot, have sundowners as you look out over never ending vistas of ancient rock formations and sleep under a blanket of stars. This is a once in a lifetime opportunity to connect with nature" (source)

Just started on the three days Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail at sunset
Heading for River Camp, approx. 4 kms. from our drop off point
Etendeka Mountains, Namibia 2019 

We were picked up at Palmwag Lodge at 4 p.m. We were very excited and perhaps also a bit nervous. We were going to trek through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot. We drove about 20 minutes to the starting point. We where about to hike approx. 25 kilometers into the Etendeka Mountains. The open Land Rover drove off the small trail onto a small dry riverbed where we set out. We were our family of four people and a very friendly family, likewise of four people, from Switzerland. Our guide Boas briefed us on the trip.

Our guide Boas briefed us on the trip
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

First, a short 3-4 kilometer hike along the dry riverbed to River Camp. The next day, an approx. 14 km long walk up to Mountain Camp, near the top of Crystal Mountain. All through the deserted Etendeka plains and mountains. This is an area with "cats" (we were prepared link), hyenas and black rhinos. Usually the animals are very shy. As Boas said:

"the biggest risk is to sprain the ankle"

We believed him.

The remains of a giraffe, on our way River Camp
It's a harsh climate!
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

After a lovely walk along the dry river bed and over a small hill, we reached Rivercamp, which lies on the banks of another dry river bed. In this camp, there are five sleeping platforms where you can sleep relatively safe under the open sky. The two platforms lie a little by themselves on one side of the common area, while the other three lie on the other side. There is no big difference no matter which platform you get. On each platform we found two camp beds with bedrols. The bedrols consisted of a waterproof bivouac coatings (which should prove to be very useful). Then duvet, pillow and a bed sheet. Everything was fine and clean and was ready for use when we arrived.

View to stars at night
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Me and my sons sleeping platform
The next morning everything was wet with dew (not normal)
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Our large luggage had been driven to the camp in advance. Pure luxury. In a bag at the end of the field bed, we found a thick blanket, and on a small table, there was a flashlight. Nearby a flush toilet (!) and a nice bucket shower. The bucket shower was a bucket upside down with a shower head. Surprisingly for us, there was also solar heated hot water that could be poured into the bucket. Everything was tastefully built of rusty steel and gabions (steel mesh with stone in it), so it fell nicely into nature.

The bucket shower was a bucket upside down with a shower head,
here at Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

At sunset, our guide and his two helpers had lit bonfires and prepared our dinner. Chicken pot and fried vegetables made on the bonfire. How nice to sit by the fire and enjoy G&T while darkness creeps in and you can hear the crackle of the bonfire and the sounds of the night.

Enjoying a  G&T while darkness creeps in and we hear
the crackle of the bonfire and the sounds of the night.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

At night, my son and I were on the same platform talking about the moon and the stars. My son saw two shooting stars and a satellite pass across the sky. What a completely enchanting evening and night. It reminds me of a specific night at me and my son's trip to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, you can read more in Danish here (link).

Heading for Mountain Camp early next morning (in the distance)
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The next day, we went the long beautiful hike through the Etendeka Mountains to the top of Crystal Mountain. We saw many animal tracks and remains, which Boes carefully explained to us. We saw stools from black rhinos and hyenas and from more "harmless animals". We also saw giraffes and springbooks. We passed "Lions Spring", a spring still flowing and we went over hill ridges and plains.

Short break enjoying the view
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The last part of the trip was the ascent to the edge of Crystal Mountain. Everywhere, there were crystals "spread around" on the ground by volcanic activity 130 million years ago. The crystals got more and more colorful the closer we got to the top of Crystal Mountain.

Everywhere, there were crystals "spread around"
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Crystal Mountain Camp is one of the most incredible places we have ever stayed (!)

Daughter relaxing at Mountain Camp, the roof can be removed
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Again, we were sleeping on platforms in Gods own free nature. Now, we had miles of mountain and plain views from the rim of Crystal Mountain. There was no disturbing light at all, only the incredible starry sky.

Sleeping platforms, Mountain Camp
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Sunset view from Mountain Camp, Crystal Mountain
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

Again, we got food cooked on bonfire, enjoyed in silence watching the serene yet harsh nature. It doesn't get much better than that.

Bonfire, Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

The next day we hiked down the mountain to Etendeka Mountain Camp, from where we were driven approx. 2 hours out of the Etendeka area to Palmwag Lodge where our Toyota Fortuner was waiting for us.

Walking down the mountain to Etendeka Mountain Camp.
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, Namibia, 2019

New experiences awaited, including a long drive north to the Angolean border at Epupa Fall´s. We are heading for an area we have never seen before. An area where it is recommended to drive two cars together and bring at least 10 liters of water per person per day (!). Read more about that adventure later ;-)

Etendeka Plateau, an unique hauntingly beautiful desolate landscape

We are heading for the Etendeka Plateau; place of flat-topped mountains

The next 3 days, we will leave comfortable Palmwag Lodge and go walking in the Etendeka area, an unique hauntingly beautiful desolate landscape.

Etendeka Mountains, sunset view from Crystal Mountain, notice the flat tops
Mountain Camp, Namibia 2019

Etendeka Plateau

Etendeka Plateau of northwestern Namibia consists of volcanic rocks. The name Etendeka means "place of flat-topped mountains" in the language of the local Himba people. It refers to the characteristic table-topped hillocks dotting the plateau at 700-800 meters. It´s covering 78,000 km2 - nearly double the size of Denmark - between the Huab River in the south and the Hoanib River in the north. It´s basalt is commonly mineralized with quartz, agate, zeolite, and calcite. Especially geodes of amethyst are famous and highly sought after by collectors (source). Geodes are spherical to sub spherical rock structures with an internal cavity lined with mineral materials (source).

Geode, a pherical structures with
an internal cavity lined with minerals,
Kristall Galerie, Swakopmund, Namibia 2019

There are crystals everywhere on the top of Crystal Mountain
Etendeka Mountains, Namibia 2019

Namibia is ideal for star gazing

Stars can be seen throughout the whole world, so why necessarily in Namibia? The reason is quite simple: Due to the low population density, the very low air pollution and the virtually non-existing light pollution, Namibia offers ideal conditions to explore the southern night sky (source). Every traveller, astronomer or not, will be thrilled by Namibia’s night sky. Not only on top of the Gamsberg, but also on several guest farms professional star gazing and photography are possible. Here, even to the untrained eye, the difference between the northern and the southern night sky becomes evident. In the deep, black sky the Milky Way shines so bright that it actually casts shadows. One has the illusion to be standing right in it. Many star signs, nebula's and galaxies can only be seen in the southern night sky. Etendeka Plateau is a perfect place for star gazing.

Geting ready for star gazing at River Camp
Etendeka Mountains, Namibia 2019

Euphorbia damarana (Damara milk-bush) 

One plant we see everywhere in Etendeka Mountains is the Euphorbia damarana (Damara milk-bush). This plant is regarded as one of the most toxic plants in Namibia. The toxic milky latex of the plant is capable of killing animals and humans, except rhino and oryx who feed upon it. If you have an open wound and come into contact with the plant, it´s can supposedly kill you. Another story reports the deaths of 11 miners at the Uis Tin Mine after consuming food cooked over a fire of Euphorbia damarana. Also, it has been used to contaminate watering holes with the plant's latex to poison and catch game which drink from the watering hole (source).

Our guide Boas next to the Euphorbia damarana (Damara milk-bush)
The bush is pressed flat by a black rhino resting here.
Etendeka Mountains, Namibia 2019

Danish family on new Namibia adventure

Desolate coastline, desert adapted elephants, pristine rivers, and spectacular water falls driving 3500 kms through the pristine African wilderness the next four weeks!

If we get through Heathrow Airport industriel actions this weekend :-(

We, father, mother with adult daughter and son, are heading for Namibia in southern Africa once again, with a small diversions into Botswana (Okavango Delta) and last pit stop in Zambia (Vic Falls). Afrika has turned into our family´s favorite destination. E.g. by now, I have had the pleasure and privilege of visiting sixteen different African countries.

Our daughter 10 years old in Namibia 2009, near Aus

Why travel in Africa?

Why do we just love travelling in Africa? And why do we often include Namibia in the itinerary?

In brief, Namibia has huge areas of pristine wilderness with many national parks and conservancies including the world´s oldest dessert with plants and animals found nowhere else on earth. Also, it has little industry or pollution with the clearest stars you will ever see. Best of all, you can explore Namibia independently driving for hours through endless plains, huge mountain areas, canyons, dry riverbeds, and game parks.

Read further motivations for travelling in Africa in our previous blogs, use the links below. The previous postings are in Danish, but you can select English top right. This time, I will blog in English ("Danglish"). It´s not my native language, therefore, please bear with me.

• 2012 family trip to; Namib Desert, Kaokoland, Etosha, Okavango, Central Kalahari, Makgadikgadi, Moremi, Chope, and Vic Falls (link motivation)

• 2015 father son trip to Kgalagadi (link motivation)

Plans for this trip

We look forward to cover the estimated 3500 kilometers self-driving in a 4WD car from Windhoek in Namibia to Livingstone in Zambia, passing by Swakopmund, Skeleton Coast, Damaraland, Kaokoland, Kunene River, Etosha national Park, Caprivi Strip, and the Ogavango Delta.

First 1400 kms of the trip through north-western Namibia

From Windhoek to Swakopmund and north along Skeleton Coast

Our journey starts in Namibias capital, Windhoek. We head west out of the capital towards Swakopmund, the second largest town in Namibia. "Swakop" is an old German´ish town which spreads from the mouth of the Swakop River into the surrounding desert. It´s often described as Namibia’s main seaside "resort", but it isn’t really commercial by any western standards.

After three nights and lots of activities in Swakop, we drive north along the coast all the way to Terrace Bay, which is the last place you can reach by car (without special permission). Terrace Bay (and Restcamp) is described as a basic, but truly unique, amazingly isolated, desolate spot. From Swakop to Terrace Bay, we follow the shore of the South Atlantic Ocean along the remote and famous Skeleton Coast, towards Kunene Region / Kaokoland. First, we pass through the section of coast known as the National West Coast Tourist Recreation Area. The coast is described as desolate and barren but with evidence of life such as lichen fields, vegetated dune hummocks, insects, snakes, and jackals. Passing Cape Cross, we expect to encounter an enormous breeding colony of Cape fur seals.

Trip 2009, Namibian coast just south of Lüderitz 

Trip 2009, our children playing in the dunes
near Sandwich Harbour

Driving into Damaraland

After a night in Terrace Bay restcamp, we head back for Torra Bay before heading inland into Damaraland, which is an semi-desert wilderness region famous for desert-adapted elephants and black rhinos, among others. Our destination is Palmwag Lodge, which is attractively located next to a palm-lined spring in the Uniab River. The river often flows with water drawing elephants close to the lodge.

Damaraland 2012, near Madisa Campsite

Three days trekking expedition into Etendeka Mountains 

After sleeping one night at the campsite at Palmwag Lodge, we trek into one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched wilderness areas Etendeka Mountains which is twice the size of Denmark. We are followed by an expert guide from Etendeka Mountain Camp. Our first stop is River Camp, which should be a relatively easy two - three hours walk. Overlooking a waterhole, River Camp is described as a simple bush camp with bucket showers and meals cooked over an open fire. We will be sleeping out on platforms under the vast Namibian night sky. After a night of stargazing and rest (if not to many animal sounds!), we will experience the longest day of the trekking expedition - with a walking distance of 15 to 20 kms. This long walk should be rewarded with stunning views from Mountain Camp, which is located on the top (rim) of Crystal Mountain overlooking an abundance of crystals and rare rock formations. In 2009, we had the rare pleasure of visiting Crystal Mountain with our two children and a guide from Etendeka Mountain Camp. That was an extraordinary experience. We really look forward to see this place again! Last time, we arrived in a Land Rover with some steep driving before reaching the rim. This time, we will have to work harder walking all the way from Palmwag to reach the place.

Trip 2009, on the rim of Crystal Mountain, look forward
to sleep under the vast Namibian night sky

Trip 2009, crystals and rare rock formations

Opuwo, the administrative centre to Kaokoland

After our hopefully good trekking experience, we drive north along C43 towards Opuwo, which is the administrative centre to Kaokoland. The name Opuwo was (according to Wiki) given by the commissioner of Ondangwa, who came in search of land to build an office. Upon his arrival, he asked local headmen to give him land where he could build an office. The headmen gave him a small plot, and when the headmen tried to give him more land, Mr. Hahn responded saying "Opuwo (it’s enough for me). I don’t want any more land". That should be how Opuwo got its name. Opuwo is also known for it´s Himba population. This group of people is considered the last (semi) nomadic people of Namibia. In 2012, we met the Himbas in near Etaambura Camp near Orupempe, Kaokoland (link)

Trip to Kaokoland 2012; coffee beak in
dry river bed driving towards Opuwo

Reaching Kunene and Epupa Falls

We will only stay one night in Opuwo Country Lodge, probably sleeping well after the long trekking expedition the previous days, before we head towards Kunene River at Epupa Falls. Kunene River is about 1,050 kilometres long and flows south from the highlands in Angola to the border with Namibia, then west along the border until it reaches the South Atlantic Ocean.

At Epupa Falls, we stay at Epupa Camp overlooking the Kunene River about 700 metres upstream from Epupa Falls. There should be a wide choice of activities in Epupa Camp, e.g. self-guided walking trails along the river, bird watching excursions, visit to nearby Himba village, and rafting excursions. By the Epupa Falls, the Cunene River is 0.5 km wide and drops in a series of waterfalls spread over 1.5 km, with the greatest single drop being 37 m. The name "Epupa" is a Herero word for "foam", in reference to the foam created by the falling water.

After two days at Epupa Falls, we plan to head along D3700, which follows the bank of Kunene River from Epupa towards Ruacana, to get to Kunene River Lodge about half way to Ruacana. Along the route, we pass the Zebra Mountains. The 4x4 track is very famous and challenging, but we have heard it was upgraded recently thus perhaps not that challenging anymore - we will see. Under all circumstances, we expect to use a long day driving the 96 kilometers along Kunene River at slow speed. We hope to find another car heading in the same direction. Here is a nice description (scroll down) from another group driving the same way (link).

Around Etosha National Park

Etosha means "Place of Mirages", "Land of Dry Water" or the "Great White Place". It´s an apparently endless pan of silvery-white sand, upon which dust-devils play and mirages blur the horizon. It´s also one of Africa's best game reserves. Especially, during the dry season, when huge herds of animals can be seen. We have had the pleasure of visiting Etosha twice before in 2009 and 2012 (link). One of the more exciting moments was when  our tyre exploded near a group of elephants! (link) and when we had lions outside the tent at night (link). We hope for no tyre explosions this time...

Etosha 2012, repairing an exploding tyre near elephants!

Etosha 2012, son watching for elephants in the meantime

Caprivi Strip, tropical surroundings

Last 2400 kms from Etosha to Victoria Falls 

After leaving Etosha, we drive north-east towards a peculiarly shaped stretch of land called the Caprivi Strip. It defies any logical border definitions being sandwiched between Angola and Botswana and stretching towards borders of Zambia and Zimbabwe. It should be very different from the rest of Namibia as a tropical strip both fringed and crossed by wide rivers, including the Zambezi, Kavango (Okavango), Chobe and Linyanti. The national parks should have a good population of some of Africa’s iconic species as well as several species largely absent from the rest of the country, such as Cape buffalo, sable and roan antelope. Added to this is the opportunity to get out on a boat, an enjoyable and often welcome contrast to sitting in a 4WD. Read more about Caprivi at Expert Africa´s homepage (link)

Okavango Delta, lush water-wilderness

From Capvi Strip, we take a deviation into Botswana through Mohembo Border Control and through Shakawe village to revisit the Okavango Delta. The Okavango River rises in the highlands of Angola and flows southeast into the Kalahari, where it spreads out into a delta formation. It covers over 15,000 km² with a lush water-wilderness of papyrus swamps, shallow reed-beds and floodplains, dotted with islands and laced with a network of channels. In 2012, we had the most extraordinary boat trip with Kubu Queen house boat - one of our absolute highlights in Africa (link). This time, we head for Nxamaseri Island Lodge which stands on an island in the Okavango Panhandle, north of the Delta, about 37km south of Shakawe village.

Okavango 2012, gone fishing for tiger fish (link)

Okavango 2012

Okavango 2012

Heading towards Livingstone and "the Smoke that Thunders"

Finally, we Victoria Falls "the Smoke that Thunders". Victoria Falls were brought to the attention of the world in 1855 by Dr David Livingstone, who later famously commented:

"'scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight". 

The Falls are 1,688 m wide and average just over 100 m in height. Up to 750 million liters of water cascade over the lip every minute, making this one of the world’s greatest waterfalls. Closer inspection shows that this immense curtain of water is interrupted by small islands that sit right on the lip of the Falls, effectively splitting them into smaller waterfalls. In 2012, we had the pleasure of swimming in "Devils Pool" on one of those small islands (link). This must be the worlds most extreme place to swim! The family is voting against me about trying the pool again this year and threatening mutiny if I insist.

Victoria Falls 2012, daugther inspecting the falls from above (link)

Self-driving in Namibia, why?

Why do we like self-driving in Namibia and surrounding countries? I found this Vimeo video (link) that gives you a good impression of the experience self-driving in the dry parts of  Namibia. However, we expect a different feeling driving along Kunene River and the Caprivi Strip, as this part of the country is very different from the rest of the country with images of lush green floodplains, herds of wildlife and ancient baobabs. Also, in Caprivi strip, we imagine to see many villages, goats, donkeys, and cows grazing by the roadside, and stalls sell everything from wooden carvings to fresh fruit. 

You can also read more about self driving at the Expert Africa homepage (link) And more about the road types (link). Also, we appreciate the Bradt Guide by Chris McIntyre very much having tried most guide books for Southern Africa over the years (link)