Danish family on new Namibia adventure

Desolate coastline, desert adapted elephants, pristine rivers, and spectacular water falls driving 3500 kms through the pristine African wilderness the next four weeks!

If we get through Heathrow Airport industriel actions this weekend :-(

We, father, mother with adult daughter and son, are heading for Namibia in southern Africa once again, with a small diversions into Botswana (Okavango Delta) and last pit stop in Zambia (Vic Falls). Afrika has turned into our family´s favorite destination. E.g. by now, I have had the pleasure and privilege of visiting sixteen different African countries.

Our daughter 10 years old in Namibia 2009, near Aus

Why travel in Africa?

Why do we just love travelling in Africa? And why do we often include Namibia in the itinerary?

In brief, Namibia has huge areas of pristine wilderness with many national parks and conservancies including the world´s oldest dessert with plants and animals found nowhere else on earth. Also, it has little industry or pollution with the clearest stars you will ever see. Best of all, you can explore Namibia independently driving for hours through endless plains, huge mountain areas, canyons, dry riverbeds, and game parks.

Read further motivations for travelling in Africa in our previous blogs, use the links below. The previous postings are in Danish, but you can select English top right. This time, I will blog in English ("Danglish"). It´s not my native language, therefore, please bear with me.

• 2012 family trip to; Namib Desert, Kaokoland, Etosha, Okavango, Central Kalahari, Makgadikgadi, Moremi, Chope, and Vic Falls (link motivation)

• 2015 father son trip to Kgalagadi (link motivation)

Plans for this trip

We look forward to cover the estimated 3500 kilometers self-driving in a 4WD car from Windhoek in Namibia to Livingstone in Zambia, passing by Swakopmund, Skeleton Coast, Damaraland, Kaokoland, Kunene River, Etosha national Park, Caprivi Strip, and the Ogavango Delta.

First 1400 kms of the trip through north-western Namibia

From Windhoek to Swakopmund and north along Skeleton Coast

Our journey starts in Namibias capital, Windhoek. We head west out of the capital towards Swakopmund, the second largest town in Namibia. "Swakop" is an old German´ish town which spreads from the mouth of the Swakop River into the surrounding desert. It´s often described as Namibia’s main seaside "resort", but it isn’t really commercial by any western standards.

After three nights and lots of activities in Swakop, we drive north along the coast all the way to Terrace Bay, which is the last place you can reach by car (without special permission). Terrace Bay (and Restcamp) is described as a basic, but truly unique, amazingly isolated, desolate spot. From Swakop to Terrace Bay, we follow the shore of the South Atlantic Ocean along the remote and famous Skeleton Coast, towards Kunene Region / Kaokoland. First, we pass through the section of coast known as the National West Coast Tourist Recreation Area. The coast is described as desolate and barren but with evidence of life such as lichen fields, vegetated dune hummocks, insects, snakes, and jackals. Passing Cape Cross, we expect to encounter an enormous breeding colony of Cape fur seals.

Trip 2009, Namibian coast just south of Lüderitz 

Trip 2009, our children playing in the dunes
near Sandwich Harbour

Driving into Damaraland

After a night in Terrace Bay restcamp, we head back for Torra Bay before heading inland into Damaraland, which is an semi-desert wilderness region famous for desert-adapted elephants and black rhinos, among others. Our destination is Palmwag Lodge, which is attractively located next to a palm-lined spring in the Uniab River. The river often flows with water drawing elephants close to the lodge.

Damaraland 2012, near Madisa Campsite

Three days trekking expedition into Etendeka Mountains 

After sleeping one night at the campsite at Palmwag Lodge, we trek into one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched wilderness areas Etendeka Mountains which is twice the size of Denmark. We are followed by an expert guide from Etendeka Mountain Camp. Our first stop is River Camp, which should be a relatively easy two - three hours walk. Overlooking a waterhole, River Camp is described as a simple bush camp with bucket showers and meals cooked over an open fire. We will be sleeping out on platforms under the vast Namibian night sky. After a night of stargazing and rest (if not to many animal sounds!), we will experience the longest day of the trekking expedition - with a walking distance of 15 to 20 kms. This long walk should be rewarded with stunning views from Mountain Camp, which is located on the top (rim) of Crystal Mountain overlooking an abundance of crystals and rare rock formations. In 2009, we had the rare pleasure of visiting Crystal Mountain with our two children and a guide from Etendeka Mountain Camp. That was an extraordinary experience. We really look forward to see this place again! Last time, we arrived in a Land Rover with some steep driving before reaching the rim. This time, we will have to work harder walking all the way from Palmwag to reach the place.

Trip 2009, on the rim of Crystal Mountain, look forward
to sleep under the vast Namibian night sky

Trip 2009, crystals and rare rock formations

Opuwo, the administrative centre to Kaokoland

After our hopefully good trekking experience, we drive north along C43 towards Opuwo, which is the administrative centre to Kaokoland. The name Opuwo was (according to Wiki) given by the commissioner of Ondangwa, who came in search of land to build an office. Upon his arrival, he asked local headmen to give him land where he could build an office. The headmen gave him a small plot, and when the headmen tried to give him more land, Mr. Hahn responded saying "Opuwo (it’s enough for me). I don’t want any more land". That should be how Opuwo got its name. Opuwo is also known for it´s Himba population. This group of people is considered the last (semi) nomadic people of Namibia. In 2012, we met the Himbas in near Etaambura Camp near Orupempe, Kaokoland (link)

Trip to Kaokoland 2012; coffee beak in
dry river bed driving towards Opuwo

Reaching Kunene and Epupa Falls

We will only stay one night in Opuwo Country Lodge, probably sleeping well after the long trekking expedition the previous days, before we head towards Kunene River at Epupa Falls. Kunene River is about 1,050 kilometres long and flows south from the highlands in Angola to the border with Namibia, then west along the border until it reaches the South Atlantic Ocean.

At Epupa Falls, we stay at Epupa Camp overlooking the Kunene River about 700 metres upstream from Epupa Falls. There should be a wide choice of activities in Epupa Camp, e.g. self-guided walking trails along the river, bird watching excursions, visit to nearby Himba village, and rafting excursions. By the Epupa Falls, the Cunene River is 0.5 km wide and drops in a series of waterfalls spread over 1.5 km, with the greatest single drop being 37 m. The name "Epupa" is a Herero word for "foam", in reference to the foam created by the falling water.

After two days at Epupa Falls, we plan to head along D3700, which follows the bank of Kunene River from Epupa towards Ruacana, to get to Kunene River Lodge about half way to Ruacana. Along the route, we pass the Zebra Mountains. The 4x4 track is very famous and challenging, but we have heard it was upgraded recently thus perhaps not that challenging anymore - we will see. Under all circumstances, we expect to use a long day driving the 96 kilometers along Kunene River at slow speed. We hope to find another car heading in the same direction. Here is a nice description (scroll down) from another group driving the same way (link).

Around Etosha National Park

Etosha means "Place of Mirages", "Land of Dry Water" or the "Great White Place". It´s an apparently endless pan of silvery-white sand, upon which dust-devils play and mirages blur the horizon. It´s also one of Africa's best game reserves. Especially, during the dry season, when huge herds of animals can be seen. We have had the pleasure of visiting Etosha twice before in 2009 and 2012 (link). One of the more exciting moments was when  our tyre exploded near a group of elephants! (link) and when we had lions outside the tent at night (link). We hope for no tyre explosions this time...

Etosha 2012, repairing an exploding tyre near elephants!

Etosha 2012, son watching for elephants in the meantime

Caprivi Strip, tropical surroundings

Last 2400 kms from Etosha to Victoria Falls 

After leaving Etosha, we drive north-east towards a peculiarly shaped stretch of land called the Caprivi Strip. It defies any logical border definitions being sandwiched between Angola and Botswana and stretching towards borders of Zambia and Zimbabwe. It should be very different from the rest of Namibia as a tropical strip both fringed and crossed by wide rivers, including the Zambezi, Kavango (Okavango), Chobe and Linyanti. The national parks should have a good population of some of Africa’s iconic species as well as several species largely absent from the rest of the country, such as Cape buffalo, sable and roan antelope. Added to this is the opportunity to get out on a boat, an enjoyable and often welcome contrast to sitting in a 4WD. Read more about Caprivi at Expert Africa´s homepage (link)

Okavango Delta, lush water-wilderness

From Capvi Strip, we take a deviation into Botswana through Mohembo Border Control and through Shakawe village to revisit the Okavango Delta. The Okavango River rises in the highlands of Angola and flows southeast into the Kalahari, where it spreads out into a delta formation. It covers over 15,000 km² with a lush water-wilderness of papyrus swamps, shallow reed-beds and floodplains, dotted with islands and laced with a network of channels. In 2012, we had the most extraordinary boat trip with Kubu Queen house boat - one of our absolute highlights in Africa (link). This time, we head for Nxamaseri Island Lodge which stands on an island in the Okavango Panhandle, north of the Delta, about 37km south of Shakawe village.

Okavango 2012, gone fishing for tiger fish (link)

Okavango 2012

Okavango 2012

Heading towards Livingstone and "the Smoke that Thunders"

Finally, we Victoria Falls "the Smoke that Thunders". Victoria Falls were brought to the attention of the world in 1855 by Dr David Livingstone, who later famously commented:

"'scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight". 

The Falls are 1,688 m wide and average just over 100 m in height. Up to 750 million liters of water cascade over the lip every minute, making this one of the world’s greatest waterfalls. Closer inspection shows that this immense curtain of water is interrupted by small islands that sit right on the lip of the Falls, effectively splitting them into smaller waterfalls. In 2012, we had the pleasure of swimming in "Devils Pool" on one of those small islands (link). This must be the worlds most extreme place to swim! The family is voting against me about trying the pool again this year and threatening mutiny if I insist.

Victoria Falls 2012, daugther inspecting the falls from above (link)

Self-driving in Namibia, why?

Why do we like self-driving in Namibia and surrounding countries? I found this Vimeo video (link) that gives you a good impression of the experience self-driving in the dry parts of  Namibia. However, we expect a different feeling driving along Kunene River and the Caprivi Strip, as this part of the country is very different from the rest of the country with images of lush green floodplains, herds of wildlife and ancient baobabs. Also, in Caprivi strip, we imagine to see many villages, goats, donkeys, and cows grazing by the roadside, and stalls sell everything from wooden carvings to fresh fruit. 

You can also read more about self driving at the Expert Africa homepage (link) And more about the road types (link). Also, we appreciate the Bradt Guide by Chris McIntyre very much having tried most guide books for Southern Africa over the years (link)

Verdens vildeste swimmingpool?!

 

Verdens vildeste swimmingpool!
Devils Pool, Victoriavandfaldet 2012

Vi holder alle hinanden meget faste i hånden! Vi balancerer 10 meter fra kanten af Victoriavandfaldet, hvor vi går gennem strømmen på de ujævne klipper. ”Er I alle gode svømmere?” spørger guiden endnu engang. ”Ja” bekræfter vi, mens vi alle tænker ”hvad er en god svømmer?” Vi kan alle svømme udemærket, men hvor godt er godt nok? Det skal jo bare være godt nok!

”Nu svømmer I alt hvad I kan efter mig, ingen tøven! I må ikke stoppe!” siger guiden. ”I skal ikke tage jer af, at I bliver trukket hen mod kanten!” Vi svømmer alt hvad vi kan, mens strømmen ganske rigtigt trækker os længere ned mod kanten af vanfaldet og dermed 111 meters frit fald. Jeg holder mig tæt til børnene. Laust drøner af sted efter guiden, mens Thea sakker lidt bagud overrasket over den stærke strøm. Det er først nu, at det for alvor går op for os, hvad vi har påbegyndt.

Ca. 5 meter før vandfaldets kant er der spændt et grønt reb på tværs af strømmen. Det er den ”sidste chance”, hvis man ikke klarer strømmen! Man har ikke lyst til at misse det grønne reb i forbifarten.

På vej tilbage fra den lille klipeø efter svømmeturen

Vi klarer alle den første svømmetur (!) ud til nogle sten, hvor vi kan bunde igen og komme til hægterne. Herefter en ny svømmetur på tværs af vandfaldet før vi når den lille klippeø, som ligger midt i strømmen. Ved denne klippeø ligger målet for vores anstrengelser: ”Devils pool”. Verdens mest spektakulære swimmingpool? En naturlig ”klippepool” bogstavelig talt direkte på kanten af vandfaldet. Vi ser på poolen og herefter på børnene. De skal ikke ned i den pool under nogen omstændigheder! Vandet strømmer lige igennem poolen ud over kanten, hvor det hvirvler 111 meter ned i en stor hvid vandsky. Larmen er enorm. I januar røg en guide ud over kanten, da han reddede en turist, som ikke fulgte instruktionerne.

På kanten af det tilladelige...
Devils Pool, Victoriavandfaldet 2012

Først laver guiden en saltomortale ud i poolen. Herefter svømmer Pia ud og venter på mig. Jeg springer, opmuntrer af guiderne, baglæns ud i luften til ære for fotografen og dermed det ultimative badebillede!

Poolen er ved pilen helt ude på kanten (taget på helikopterturen tidligere)
Bemærk den tynde gribelinje ud til klippen -
Hvis det kniber med svømmeevnerne!

Bagefter svømmer vi retur med børnene. Det går fint nu da vi ved, hvad der venter.

Vi er nu sikkert tilbage på Livingstone Island, som ligger midt i vandfaldet på kanten. Her venter morgenmaden. Der er dækket fint op med hvide duge i et canvas telt, med fri udsigt til vandfaldet.  Devils pool åbnede i øvrigt i går, da vandstanden nu er lav nok. ”This would not be allowed in Germany” siger guiden. ”Det har du nok ret i” siger jeg og forklarer endnu engang, at vi kommer fra Danmark, som ikke er en del af Tyskland. "Den var heller ikke gået i USA", tilføjer jeg. I Zambia klarede vi det hele med en enkelt underskrift, hvor firmaet fralagde sig ethvert ansvar…

Planning an Overland Safari with Safari Drive in Namibia and Botswana

Preparations in London

In December 2011, I met Meregan Turner in London. She runs Safari Drive, a British specialist tour operator that has organised self-drive safaris in southern Africa since 1993.

Safari Drive
Vores rejsearrangør / sparringspartner

Meregan is a former professional show jumper and racing driver. She has lived in South Africa and travelled extensively across the continent. The meeting in London gave us an opportunity to assess each other - important, given that an overland expedition in Africa represents a significant investment, with full payment required prior to departure.

I left with a strong impression of both Meregan and Safari Drive. We discussed potential routes through southern Africa in detail - it was refreshing to meet someone equally enthusiastic about Africa.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour, Namibia, 2009
Before the tide comes in…!

Why Safari Drive?

Safari Drive is particularly known for its well-equipped Land Rover Defender fleet and strong safety standards:

• Satellite phone
• GPS navigation
• 24-hour assistance, including air rescue
• Comprehensive safety briefing on arrival
• Off-road driving course before vehicle handover
• Fully equipped vehicles (extra fuel tanks, water storage, fridge, and more)

Within days, we would see whether preparation matched reality.

Solitaire, Khomas Region, Namibia, 2009
It pays to be well equipped…!

Route overview

Sunset, near Madisa Campsite
Namibia, 2012.

Namibia: Desert Landscapes and Remote Wilderness

• Windhoek & River Crossing Lodge – Arrival, briefing, and 4x4 training
• Spitzkoppe & Damaraland – Granite peaks, rock art, and remote campsites
• Khowarib & Purros (Kaokoland) – Harsh, isolated terrain and Himba communities
• Etambura Camp (Kunene Region) – Deep into one of Namibia’s most remote regions

These early stages of the journey take us into true wilderness, with long driving days, minimal infrastructure, and a strong reliance on navigation and self-sufficiency.

Dolomite Camp, Etosha National Park
Namibia 2012.

Etosha National Park and Northern Namibia

• Etosha National Park – One of Africa’s premier wildlife reserves, known for its vast salt pan and high concentration of game
• Onguma Campsite – Game viewing along the eastern edge
• Bushmanland (Tsumkwe) – Cultural encounters with San communities

Etosha offers classic safari experiences, while Bushmanland provides insight into traditional ways of life in southern Africa.

Our houseboat "Kubu Queen"
Okavango Delta, Botswana 2012

Botswana: Delta, Desert and Wildlife

• Okavango Delta (houseboat expedition from Shakawe) – A unique way to explore one of Africa’s most extraordinary ecosystems
• Guma Lagoon – Birdlife and river landscapes
• Central Kalahari Game Reserve – Vast open pans, remote camps, and predator territory
• Makgadikgadi National Park – Salt pans and stark desert beauty
• Moremi Game Reserve & Chobe National Park – High-density wildlife areas

Note: Campsites in Botswana are unfenced—wildlife moves freely through camp. Expect lions, elephants, and particularly bold baboons.

Driving conditions range from deep sand to flooded tracks, requiring constant attention and proper 4x4 technique.

We survived Devil’s Pool at Victoria Falls, 2012

Zambia: Journey’s End

• Crossing at Kazungula into Zambia
• Stay at Waterberry Lodge near Victoria Falls

The journey concludes along the Zambezi River, within reach of one of the world’s most spectacular natural wonders—first seen by David Livingstone in 1855.

The journey comes to a halt with a broken fan belt,
near Madisa Camp, Namibia, 2012.

Reflections on Planning an Overland Safari

Planning a self-drive safari across southern Africa is a balance between logistics, risk management, and adventure. Distances are vast, infrastructure limited, and conditions unpredictable. Yet this is precisely what makes such journeys compelling.

From London meeting rooms to remote desert tracks, the transition is dramatic—but essential. Preparation is everything.

Detailed itinerary:

Below is the final overland itinerary we developed together—a five-week self-drive safari through Namibia, Botswana and Zambia:

Sun 15 July Arrive Windhoek, overnight River Crossing, Windhoek

Upon arrival in Windhoek you will be met and transferred to River Crossing, which is located just 15 minutes away from the centre of Windhoek. Situated at the top of a hill, it offers superb views of mountains in one direction and Windhoek in the other. The area surrounding the lodge is home to a variety of plains game including zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, and eland. The restaurant area is great to relax in, with views that will make any sundowner remarkable. There are just en-suite 20 bungalows here, each nearly decorated and welcoming. Here you can enjoy scenic drives, see the grounds on foot or for the experience rider, participate in morning or afternoon horse rides. There is also a wellness centre at the lodge with a spa that offers a range of massages.

Mon 16 July River Crossing, Windhoek
This morning you will be collected and taken to our base where you will be briefed on the vehicle, equipment, driving conditions, route and safety issues. Please expect this briefing to take at least two hours. You will also be asked to sign the safety affirmation form to confirm that you have read and understood all the contents of the Safari Drive Hand Book. You will also be directed to the best places to buy your fresh food stocks and other items you may need before departing Windhoek the following morning. After your briefing you will drive to the Windhoek Country Club Hotel reception (Duane will give you directions at your briefing) where you will be met by Be-local at a time to be confirmed. Please expect this essential 4x4 training to take a couple of hours.

Tue 17 July Spitzkoppe Camp, Southern Damaraland
Today you will drive to Spitzkoppe, which is one of the most beautiful areas in Namibia, consisting of an imposing granite rock formation set in the plains. You can walk in the area and climb up to Bushman’s Paradise, a small basin tucked between the domes of rock, where you can view the rock paintings done by Bushman of the past and gaze at the amazing view. There are a number of campsites in the area to choose from and most have basic facilities, fire places and refuse bins etc. There are plenty of locals willing to guide you for a small sum but we recommend using them once and then spend your time carefully clambering around the rocks - there are lots of paintings to discover. Here you will be camping, allow for a 4 hour drive.

Wed 18-19 July Madisa Campsite, Damaraland
Located in the heart of Damaraland, close to Twyfelfontein, the Petrified Forest and the famous rock paintings, you will find Madisa Campsite (meaning hello or welcome in the Damara / Nama language) which is a newly built campsite and a lovely place to stay. There are only 10 shaded campsites, each with excellent facilities; running water, braai and washing up facilities there is also a swimming pool. Madisa is heavily involved with the local community and has started projects such the Etameko Brilliant Boards project which provides learning boards to expose children aged between six and 15 years to a formal education and the Iyaloo Project which uses materials from used items of furniture and discarded building materials in an enterprise development program. Here you stay in a campsite. Allow for a 4 hour drive.

Fri 20-21 July Khowarib Lodge Campsite
Today you head South again to to Khowarib Lodge which nestles on the banks of the Hoanib river in the magnificent Khowarib Gorge in north west Namibia. The lodge has canvas chalets projecting out from the riverbank on stilts over the river bed providing unrivaled, shady views of the cliffs opposite. On the fringe of Kaokoland, the lodge offers a perfect jumping off point to explore the remote north west of the country, either independently or on one of the lodge's extensive guided tours. The immediate surrounding area of Damaraland has many rich and interesting activities, including desert adapted elephant and Himba settlements, within easy reach. Here you stay in a campsite. Allow for a full days drive.

Near Sandwich Harbour, Namibia, 2009
Almost no landmarks to navigate by!

Sun 22-23 July Purros Campsite, Ngatutunge Pamwe, Kaokoland
Today you need to rise super early to take the very long and dusty drive north to Purros Campsite in southern Kaokoland. Purros is a wonderful and remote spot rarely visited. The campsite is set under trees in this spectacular desert area. There is water for showers and flush loos and the Himba family who run the camp will sell you firewood and take you on walks into the surrounding hills. Here you camp but will need to book and pay on arrival. Allow for a full days drive.  From Khowarib you will drive north through Sesfontein. There is a sign to the campsite, which is 150 km north of Sesfontein. The camp is not that easy to find and, before you cross the river in the tiny village of Purros, you turn right and drive along the river bank. You have to cross the river bed to get to the camp so great care must be taken if there has been rain or if there is likely to be any, as vehicles can be easily bogged down and be lost in the flash floods that appear out of nowhere.

Tue 24 July Etambura Camp, Orupembe
Today you continue on your journey further into the wonderfully remote and simply stunning scenery of the Kunene region. You again need to expect for a very long days drive stopping for a picnic lunch along the way. You continue along the DR3707 to Orupembe. You may need the villagers at Purros Campsite to assist with directions to find this road as it is not as straight-forward as you might think! Once at Orupembe, a tiny town characterised by one single shop, you head to the lovely a recently finished Etambura Camp. The camp has been built in conjunction, and is run by, the local Himba and Herero people and while it is staffed for your assistance you may not have any english speaking help. There are five canvas & thatch en-suite rooms, each with its own unique and breathtaking view out from the mountain top. There is hot water and a solar charging bank for your cameras or lap-tops, but the real beauty of this camp lies in its simplicity and symbiosis with the surrounding terrain. You stay here in en-suite rooms on a self catering basis. Allow for a full days drive.

Wed 25-26 July Etambura Camp, Orupembe
You remain based here for a second and third day. From here you can explore the area, visit a nearby abandoned marble mine and spend time in a semipermanent Himba settlement. Meet the head-lady, or local school teacher.

Near Sandwich Harbour, Namibia, 2009
Thea and Laust playing in the sand :-)

Fri 27 July Opuwo Country Lodge Campsite
This morning you will drive to Opuwo and on to Opuwo Country Lodge where you will camp. There are 10 camping spots available all with their own BBQ spot as well as an electrical point. Wood is for sale. There is running hot and cold water and washbasins where pots and pans can be washed. You should be able to re-fuel here too, depending upon fuel availability of course. Here you will camp, allow for a 7 hour drive.

Sat 28-29 July Dolomite Camp, West Etosha
Today you will drive south to the brand new Dolomite Camp which is located in Western Etosha National Park. You must drive through the Galton Gate which is the western entrance at Ozonjuiti m’Bari and is only open to guests staying at this lodge. This camp is the most recent addition to the Namibian Wildlife Resort collection (completed in June 2011) and is built up on a rocky outcrop overlooking some lovely plains. Each of the chalets have their own viewing deck and are completely private, although neatly linked with pathways that wind around the rocks. Guided game drives are available here, giving you exclusive access to the game in the western side of the park. Here you will stay on a bed and breakfast basis in a Bush Chalet. Allow for a 3 hour drive.

MORE INFORMATION ON ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
Regarded by safari aficionados as one of Africa's greatest wildlife sanctuaries, Etosha National Park - dominated by its enormous shimmering salt pan - is an area of wild savannah and open woodland, and is home to a fantastic array of animals. Etosha National Park measures 4 590 square kilometres, while all the pans cover more than 5 100 square kilometres. Despite its arid appearance, the park is packed with an eclectic mix of familiar faces such as elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard and zebra as well as the desert specialists like springbok and the handsome gemsbok. It's also one of the best places in southern Africa to spot the endangered cheetah and black rhino not to mention rare antelope species like black-faced impala, Damara dik dik and roan antelope, plus there's a bird count of 340 species (an interesting blend of savannah, wetland and semi-desert birds).

Etosha National Park, Namibia, 2009
We were heading the other way - past the cars!

Mon 30 July Onguma Campsite, Etosha National Park
This evening you will stay at Onguma Bush Camp Campsite. Situated just outside the Von Lindequist Gate on the eastern edge of Etosha National Park the 5 private sites make a great place to relax while taking game drives into the park. Each site has its own braai area, bathroom and washing areas. The acacia trees offer much needed shade in the hotter seasons. The neighboring Onguma guest house has a pool and restaurant which are both open to campers. Guided trips are also on offer at the camp and are well worth it. Here you will be staying in a campsite. Allow for a full days game through Etosha National Park.

Tue 31 July Mukuri Village Campsite Bushmanland Tsumkwe
You drive to Bushmanland to camp at one of the locally run campsites in this interesting region. The best of these is Mukuri. The camp which is in the shade of a huge Baobab Tree has no facilities but is kept clean and wood is provided. A lovely Bushman by the name of Naici (pronounced Naychi) who speaks good English will greet you. He will arrange any activity you wish to do. You can go gathering food and herbs with the women of the village or tracking and hunting with the men. The woman make lovely and interesting jewellery which can be bought directly from them. The Bushmen in this area have been given the land where they can live their lives in the age old traditions if they wish. Here you will be camping, allow for a 6 hour drive.


Wed 01-03 Aug Kubu Queen House Boat, Shakawe
The very best alternative to an expensive camp in the heart of the Okavango Delta is this wonderful and genuine house boat based out of Shakawe on the Okavango River. The Kubu Queen is a small, privately owned wooden boat rebuilt by its owner Greg Thompson. Greg and Kate lovingly rebuilt the boat after it had sunk out of neglect and have now created a comfortable private lodge on the water. The boat has three double rooms, two small doubles a super shower, separate loo and an open air galley, all of which are situated on the main deck. Upstairs are the dining and sitting room areas where the bridge doubles as the bar! In the stern are two single beds open to and above the river and a stunning place to sleep. The boat travels into the heart of the Delta where each night you moor on an island where you can go on guided walks. A big fire is built on the banks each night so if you fancy an hour or two on land it is a good place to sit. Greg is a top river guide and his bird knowledge is excellent. Hippos, crocodile and birds are the main attractions but game can be seen when you travel deeper into the delta. The boat has two large flat bottomed motor boats for birding, fishing and trips into the smaller channels of the Delta. A minimum of three nights on this lovely boat is a totally wonderful and different way to see the Delta and witness African River life at is best. Your stay here is on a totally exclusive and fully inclusive basis. However all drinks are extra.

Etosha Pan, Namibia, 2009
Laust out exploring more than 100 km² of mud
The scale is extraordinary!

“Why, that's enough for a whole meal!” said the Princess. “But where do we get the sauce from?”
“I have that in my pocket,” replied Clumsy Hans. “In fact, I have so much I can afford to spill some of it.” Then he poured a little of the mud from his pocket.
“I like that!” said the Princess. “You have an answer for everything, and you know how to speak. I'll take you for my husband. But do you know that everything we've said and are saying is written down and will be published in the paper tomorrow? Look over there, and you'll see in each window three clerks and an old alderman, and that alderman is the worst of all; he doesn't understand anything!”

She said this only to frighten him, but all the clerks chuckled with delight and spurted blots of ink on the floor.
“Oh, so these are the gentlemen!” said Clumsy Hans. “Then I must give the alderman the best thing I have.” Then he turned out his pockets and threw the wet mud in the face of the alderman.

“Cleverly done!” said the Princess. “I could never have done that, but I'll learn in time!”

So Clumsy Hans was made a king, with a wife and a crown, and sat on a throne. And we had this story straight from the alderman's newspaper—but that is one you can't always depend upon.”

H. C. Andersen 1855 (kilde)

Sat 04 Aug Guma Lagoon
Guma Lagoon Camp is situated on the northwestern edge of the spectacular Okavango Delta wetland system. Hidden amidst a grove of beautiful ebony and fig trees on the banks of Guma Lagoon, the camp is a haven for fishermen and birdwatchers alike. Here you will be staying in a campsite.

A NOTE ABOUT THE CAMPSITES,  BOTSWANA
The campsites in Botswana National Parks have limited facilities, there is no fuel or shops at all so you must be totally self sufficient. In Moremi, Savute & northern Chobe the camps have all been recently refurbished and have new, clean & well maintained ablution blocks with running water and sometimes even hot showers!. You must be prepared to have game in the camp with you as there are no fences to keep animals out. Baboons can be a particular nuisance, they will steal from your camp and from inside your vehicle so keep doors closed and don’t leave food unattended, the
baboons are very bold and can be aggressive. You must expect bad single track roads, deep deep sand and in places black cotton mud and deep surface water which must not be crossed.

Sun 05-06 Aug Grasslands Safari Lodge Campsite
Take the long drive to Grassland Safari Lodge which is located on the western edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, some 80km north east of Ghanzi. Apart from the lodge, there is a very pretty campsite about 4kms away across the bush. Access to the swimming pool at the lodge and activities, are included in the camping fee. There are two excellent reasons for taking the long and dusty drive to Grasslands. The first is the totally amazing and the once in a lifetime opportunity to join the San Bushmen on a food gathering excursion. You will begin to understand a little about how these extraordinary people are able to live sustainably in this harsh environment, how they can read the Grasslandssigns of nature and determine animals behaviour and movement from tracks and spoor. The whole experience is done with tact and a huge amount of pride from the San themselves who are very proud to share their ancient culture with their guests. It is also possible to visit the San village and see traditional cooking and crafts on longer stays. Your hosts are Neeltjie de Graaff-Bowen and her husband. Neeltjie speaks fluent Naro (Bushman) as she was bought up with many of the people who now live on the ranch and loves and understands the San from the bottom of her heart. You will see this in the time you spend with her and her Bushman friends. While here you will also learn about the Bowen’s rescue work with lions and wild dogs in the Kalahari region’s farmlands. You will see first hand how rogue and orphaned animals are saved from almost certain death, before being moved to more suitable locations, thereby protecting them and conserving the future of their species. This work is a huge burden on their life and resources as it is not possible to find safe homes for many of the lions. They had 5 prides totaling 29 lions at the last visit but all are in huge enclosures and are well and happy. The 19 wild dogs will find new homes slightly easier. For riders horse trails can also be arranged with a bush lunch. Here you will be staying in the campsite. Activities are extra. Allow 6 hours drive.


Tue 07-08 Aug Sunday Pan, Central Kalahari Game ReserveFrom Grasslands head to the Tsau Gate. You then drive to the Sunday Pan Campsites which lie in the northern sector of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve just north of Deception Pan. Next to Sunday Pan is Leopard Pan and both of these are fairly large pans. There are three pitches at Sunday Pan and one at Leopard Pan they are all nestled in the edge of the bush close to the main open pan area, all pitches have fire pits. The lions in the region have been observed by man rather too much and thus have little fear so please be careful. You stay here in a campsite, allow for a 6 hour drive.

Thu 09-10 Aug Khumaga Campsite, Makgadikgadi National Park Today you drive to the National Park Campsite on the edge of Makgadikgadi National Park called Khumaga. The campsite has good facilities and is only a short drive from the main road and the park. Here you will be camping in a campsite, allow for 4 hour drive.

Sat 11 Aug Third Bridge, Moremi Wildlife Reserve Drive through Moremi to stay at the most popular of the Moremi Camps at Third Bridge. Set in trees and across a bridge, this pretty campsite is regularly visited by all types of game including lions that cross the bridge and can come right in to the camp. The baboons here can be a big problem so you must be very careful to keep everything shut in the vehicle as they will steal anything they can carry. Here you will be camping, allow for a 5 hour drive.

Sun 12 Aug Third Bridge, Moremi Wildlife Reserve and Boat trip Today you can take a boat trip. Stay here for a second night. You can do a three hour boat trip into the Delta today.

NB: PLEASE BE AWARE! YOU MUST READ CAREFULLY THE HAND BOOK PAGE 51 ABOUT CROSSING WATER.

Mon 13 Aug Savute Campsite, Chobe National ParkThis morning you will continue north through Chobe to the Savute Campsite which is located next to the Savute Park Rangers Post. Facilities have been upgraded with showers and loos and the campsite is protected by an elephant-proof embankment but it’s not great, the facilities are currently cleaned daily and you should be able to get hot water too! The campsite itself has individual sites with braai pits and is generally shady. However, the ground can be dusty later in the dry season. You also need to keep an eye out for the resident bull elephants who have become rather a problem searching the campsites for food! The area is interesting with plenty of game to be seen at the right time of year on the vast open plains that so typify this area. Savute is situated deep in the Chobe National Park in an area known for its rock paintings, its large hyena and lion populations and for the old bull elephants that stay near the waterholes. With the Savute channel now flowing year round the game here is spectacular and the area lush and green in places. Here you will be camping, allow for a 6 hour drive.

14-15 Aug Ihaha Campsite, Chobe RiverThis morning you will continue your journey north through Chobe National Park. You reach a new tar road at Kachikau which significantly cuts down your traveling time and allows you more time to game drive along the Chobe riverfront. You head to Ihaha campsite which is locates right on the banks of the Chobe River. There are no longer any fences around these sites and game will find its way into the camp, including some very noisy and naughty baboons! You spend the night camping on the banks of the Chobe River in this idyllic spot. This part of the park boasts one of the highest concentrations of elephant in Africa as well as a wide variety of other wildlife, which moves onto the flood plains to drink. There is an ablution block and the camping areas are secluded. Here you will be camping, allow for a 4 hour drive.

Thu 16-17 Aug Waterberry Lodge, Livingstone, ZambiaToday you cross the border into Zambia via the ferry at Kazangula and progress to Livingstone where you stay at Waterberry Lodge. The border crossing into Zambia can be quite an experience and this border can be particularly busy so it is really important to remain calm and be polite! We recommend you get to the border as early as possible as it can get very busy later in the day. You drive to Waterberry Lodge, where you will hand over the vehicle and give a de-brief of your trip. Waterberry Lodge is located on the banks of the Zambezi River, amongst Mopane woodland, Waterberry Lodge is only 45 minutes from Livingstone town and Victoria Falls. With only seven chalets, some overlooking the river and others overlooking the Dam, each is secluded and has en-suite facilities. They serve delicious meals in the main lodge on the balcony, overlooking the river and the chef is very good and creates delicious salads and fresh food. Your hosts, Gail & Kevin will look after you brilliantly and there is such a homely feeling around the lodge that you will feel very welcome. When walking around the lodge, you need to be very careful of hippo which will come through camp on a regular basis. In particular, the birds at Waterberry are stunning and many species can be spotted in the grounds of the lodge. You will debrief on your vehicle this afternoon. You stay here on a full board basis including all meals and one in house activity.

Sat 18 Aug Depart
Today you will be transferred to the airport for your onward flight.

Pia and the pilot in the air over Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, 1997

[Original tekst på dansk: I december 2011 holdt jeg et møde i London med Meregan Turner, som driver Safari Drive. Det er et engelsk specialrejsebureau, som har lavet "self-drive" safarier i det sydlige Afrika siden 1993.

Meregan er tidligere professionel springrytter og racerkører (!) Hun har boet i Sydafrika, og rejst Afrika tyndt på kryds og tværs. Mødet i London var en god lejlighed til at se hinanden lidt an. Ikke mindst da det er en større investering at tage på ekspedition i Afrika, og da hele beløbet forfalder før afrejsen. På mødet i London fik jeg et godt indtryk af Meregan og firmaet Safari Drive. Vi diskuterede livligt og engageret spændende ruter gennem det sydlige Afrika. Det var herligt at være sammen med en, der er mindst lige så begejstret for Afrika :-)

Safari Drive er især kendt for deres meget veludstyrede Land Rover Defenders. Herudover har de ry for at have et højt sikkerhedsniveau, bl.a.:

• Satellit telefon
• Satellit navigation
• 24 timers assistance inklusive "air rescue"
• Sikkerhedsbriefing ved ankomst
• Kørekursus før udlevering af Land Rover
• Alle tænkelige faciliteter i bilen, f.eks ekstra brændstoftank, vandtank, køleskab...
• Og meget mere

Om få dage får vi "syn for sagen", når forberedelserne skal stå deres prøve.]

Before Departure for Africa – Reflections on Travel

Why Africa and reflections on travel, memory, and an overland journey

In his first travel book, Skyggebilleder (1831), the Danish author H. C. Andersen describes travel in words that still resonate today:

”Oh travel, travel! It is the happiest of all destinies! And therefore we all travel; everything travels throughout the universe. Even the poorest man owns the winged horse of thought, and when he grows weak and old, death takes him on the great journey we all must make. The waves roll from coast to coast, the clouds sail across the vast sky, and birds fly over fields and meadows. We all travel, even the dead in their quiet graves, carried with the Earth around the Sun. ‘Travel’ is a fixed idea throughout the universe—but we humans are children, and we even play at travelling in the midst of the great natural journey of ourselves and all things".

H. C. Andersen, Skyggebilleder, 1831

Trip to Namibia, near Bagatelle Guest Farm, 2009
What lies around the next corner?

Setting Out Once Again

Now it is time to travel again. Two adults, aged 43 and 45, and two children, aged 12 and 13. Pia, Troels, Laust, and Thea. And indeed, as Andersen writes, travel truly is “the happiest of destinies.”

We are privileged—especially when seen in relation to the people we are once again about to visit. Ahead of us lies a five-week overland expedition in a specially equipped Land Rover Defender, covering 4,500 km through remote regions of Namibia and Botswana, before crossing the border into Livingstone in Zambia.

Five weeks filled with new, unknown corners every single day. And how fitting it is to end the journey where David Livingstone in 1855 first laid eyes on what is often described as the world’s greatest waterfall.

Why Africa?

"Camps make their own deep impression on the memory, as if one had lived there for a long time; sometimes one remembers for years a single curve of one’s wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as though it had been a sign of importance in one’s life"

Karen Blixen, Den Afrikanske Farm, 1937 (Source)

Troels & Pia. Camp in Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe, 1997
The most beautiful campsite we have ever known?

Pia and I will never forget our campsite in the Chimanimani Mountains of Zimbabwe in 1997. It was our third wedding anniversary. After arriving at “base camp” in our small Mazda 323, we climbed the mountainside toward the Chimanimani Plateau at nearly 2,000 metres—racing against the fading light.

Darkness closed in quickly. The landscape became increasingly strange and eerie, yet at the same time enchantingly beautiful. Imagine a Salvador Dalí mirror image of trees and swans Dali mirror image Watching our footing carefully because of crawling creatures, we also struggled with the growing fear of losing the trail, marked only by occasional stone cairns. Not a comforting thought.

We finally arrived in complete darkness. I pitched the tent while Pia illuminated the scene with a torch—keeping watch for “large cats” at the same time. We had no idea what surrounded us, but we found a relatively flat, if stony, place to sleep. Exhausted, we fell into a deep sleep, undisturbed even by the sounds of the night.

Morning brought release. We woke to the most magical view we have ever experienced. Perhaps that alone is reason enough.

Or perhaps it is because Africa draws you in. The landscapes, the people, the smells, the crowds—and the emptiness. It is as if this continent holds everything and nothing at the same time.

People, Trust, and Experience

Karen Blixen also wrote:

"They [the natives] were never reliable, but they were magnificently sincere"

She was not naïve—and neither are we. We have encountered unreliable people in Africa and have been deceived on earlier journeys. Sometimes it was likely a matter of personal or family survival, and one might ask whether that truly counts as deception.

More often, however—and seemingly in contrast to Blixen’s experience—we have encountered people who were both sincere and reliable. I recall Ghana in 1989, when my close friend Thomas and I were stranded in a small mountain village near the border with Togo. There was nowhere to stay, yet a poor family living in a small hut insisted—despite our protests—that we take their home for the night while they moved in with neighbours. Their dwelling was probably the most valuable thing they owned.

I must admit that I am not always (if ever) as generous a host myself.

Why Namibia and Botswana?

Thea, aged 10. Aus Mountains, Namibia, 2009
Sunset over the Sperrgebiet—the forbidden diamond area

Pros Namibia

• High level of safety when travelling with children; low crime
• A fantastic previous journey in 2009
• Vast, empty landscapes of desert and mountains
• Excellent gravel roads (with the exception of Kaokoland, where we will be challenged)
• Reasonable prices compared with other safari destinations
• Safe and straightforward wilderness camping

Cons Namibia

• Some (incomprehensibly, to us) find the country monotonous
• Limited “green savannah” outside the rainy season
• Wildlife widely dispersed during dry periods
• Cold nights, sometimes below freezing—winter in Namibia, summer in Denmark
• Poor shopping opportunities, according to our teenage daughter

Pros Botswana

• The Okavango Delta—perhaps the most beautiful place in Africa?
• Reportedly high safety levels for family travel
• Abundant wildlife, including the “Big Five”
• Many highly diverse national parks

Cons Botswana

• The price
• The price
• The price
• Poor roads—when roads exist at all
• We will find out soon enough.

Why a Travel Blog? That’s a strange idea…

This year, I finally—probably as one of the last people in Denmark—created a Facebook account. The tipping point was a tropical medicine course in London with 70 participants from all over the world. One of the lecturers, an elderly gentleman, announced that he had created a Facebook group so we could stay in touch once dispersed across the globe. He casually asked whether anyone in the auditorium did not have Facebook.

Indeed there was: a retired Indian professor—and myself.

It was a humbling experience (although I secretly felt a little proud of my stubbornness). Hence this blog: an attempt, for once, to stay slightly ahead of the curve—to be “young with the young.” And perhaps also a way to preserve memories of the journey for the future.

If a family member, friend, or fellow traveller enjoys following along—at a safe distance—or if other readers are planning or dreaming of a journey to Africa, then you are all very welcome on board.

P.S. Internet access is (fortunately) poor in the desert, so updates may be infrequent. We are collecting experiences.

— Troels, blog author

Troels, Kulala Wilderness Camp near the red dunes of Sossusvlei, Namibia, 2009
You take what you can get—water is scarce in the desert ;-)

    

In Danish:

I sin første rejsebog "Skyggebilleder" fra 1831 beskriver H. C. Andersen rejsen på følgende måde: ”O reise! Reise! Det er dog den lykkeligste Lod! Og derfor reise vi ogsaa Alle; Alt Reiser i det hele Univers! Selv den fattigste Mand eier Tankens vingede Hest, og bliver den svag og gammel, tager Døden ham dog med paa Reisen, den store Reise, vi alle reise. Bølgerne rulle fra Kyst til Kyst; Skyerne seile hen ad den store Himmel og Fuglen flyver med over Mark og Enge. Vi reise Alle, selv de Døde i deres stille Grave, flyve med Jorden rundt om Solen. Ja, ”reise”, det er en fix Idee hos det hele Univers, men vi Mennesker ere Børn, vi vil endogsaa lege ”At rejse” midt under vores og Tingenes store naturlig Reise". H. C. Andersen, Skyggebilleder, 1831 (kilde) 

Billede

• Tur til Namibia, nær Bagatelle Guest Farm, 2009. Bag næste hjørne? 

Nu skal vi på rejse! To voksne på 43 og 45 år og to børn på 12 og 13 år. Pia, Troels, Laust og Thea. Og det er ganske vist, som H. C. Andersen skriver det, "den lykkeligste lod"! Vi er privilegerede, ikke mindst set i forhold til den befolkning vi endnu engang besøger. Fem ugers ekspedition i en specialudstyret Land Rover Discovery. I alt 4500 km. på egen hånd gennem svært tilgængelige egne af Namibia og Botswana for til sidst at krydse grænsen til Livingstone i Zambia. Fem uger fuld af nye ukendte hjørner hver eneste dag. Og hvor passende at slutte rejsen der hvor David Livingstone i 1855 så, hvad der betegnes som, verdens største vandfald! Hvorfor lige Afrika? "Lejrpladser sætter sig på en egen måde fast i erindringen, som om man havde levet der i lange tider, og man husker undertiden længe en enkelt kurve af sine vognspor i græsset på sletten, som om det var et tegn, der havde haft betydning i ens liv." Karen Blixen, Den Afrikanske Farm, 1937 (kilde) 

 Billede

• Troels & Pia. Lejr i Chimanimani bjergene, Zimbabwe 1997 Det smukkeste sted vi har slået lejr? 

Pia og jeg glemmer aldrig vores lejrplads i Chimanimani bjergene i Zimbabwe i 1997. Det var vores 3 års bryllupsdag. Efter ankomst til "basecamp" i vores lille Mazda 323, forcerede vi bjergsiden op mod Chimanimani plateauet i ca. 2 km.´s højde i et kapløb med tiden. Det blev mørkere og mørkere, og landskabet fremstod mere og mere underligt og uhyggeligt, men på samme tid fortryllende smukt. Forestil dig Salvador Dalì´s spejlbillede af træer og svaner. Af hensyn til kryb var det vigtigt at blive ved med at se, hvor vi satte hænder og fødder. Samtidig strejfede tanken om at fare vild os, hver gang vi spejdede efter den næste stenvarde, som skulle markere stien. Ikke et behageligt perspektiv. Til sidst nåede vi frem i bælragende mørke. Jeg satte teltet op, mens Pia lyste for mig med en lommelygte og samtidig holdt udkik efter "store kattedyr"! Vi havde absolut ingen ide om omgivelserne, her hvor vi var endt efter vores vandring i mørket, men det lykkedes at finde et nogenlunde plant, omend stenet, sted at sætte teltet op. Vi faldt hurtigt i dyb søvn efter strabadserne på bjerget, og end ikke dyrelydene kunne holde os vågne denne gang. Næste morgen kom forløsningen, da vi vågnede op til den mest fortryllende udsigt, vi nogensinde havde set. Måske bare derfor... Eller fordi... Afrika drager. Naturen, befolkningen, lugtene, menneskemylderet og tomheden. Det er som om dette kontinent har alt og intet på samme tid. Karen Blixen skriver i den Den Afrikanske Farm ; "De [indfødte] var aldrig pålidelige, men de var på en storslået måde oprigtige". Karen Blixen var ikke blåøjet, og vi er heller ikke naive. Vi har mødt upålidelige mennesker i Afrika, og vi er blevet snydt på tidligere rejser. Nogle gange handlede det nok mest om egen eller familiens overlevelse, og så kan man vel diskutere, om det var snyd? Langt de fleste gange har vi nu, tilsyneladende i modsætning til Karen Blixen, mødt såvel oprigtige som pålidelige mennesker. F.eks. i Ghana i 1989, hvor min gode ven Thomas og jeg strandede i en lille bjerglandsby nær grænsen til Togo. Der var igen steder at bo, men en fattig familie i en lille hytte insisterede på trods af vores protester på, at vi skulle overtage deres hjem for natten, mens de rykkede ind til nogle naboer. Deres bolig var formentlig den mest dyrebare ting, som de ejede. Jeg er desværre erkende, at jeg ikke altid (om nogensinde) er lige så gæstfri og imødekommende... 

Hvorfor lige Namibia og Botswana? 

Billede: 

• Thea, 10 år gammel. Aus bjergene, Namibia, 2009 Solnedgang over Sperrgebiet - det forbudte diamantområde. 

Der er mange gode grunde til at vi har valgt Namibia, som vi kender fra en tidligere rejse: Højt niveau af sikkerhed når man rejser med børn med kun beskeden kriminalitet Fantastisk tur til samme land i 2009 Storslåede øde vidder, bjerge og ørken Særdeles gode grusveje (dog ikke i Kaokoland, hvor vi bliver udfordret) Fornuftigt prisniveau sammenlignet med andre safari-destinationer Trygt og nemt at campere i naturen 

Ulemper Namibia: Nogle vil nok (helt uforståeligt for os :-) opleve landet som ensartet ørken og bjerge Der mangler den "grønne savanne", som de fleste forbinder med Afrika, bortset fra regntiden Dyrene er spredt over store områder i tørkeperioden og kan derfor være svære at få øje på Det er koldt om natten (ned til frysepunktet). Vinter i Namibia - sommer i Danmark Elendige shopping muligheder pointerer vores teenage datter! 

Årsager til at vælge Botswana: Okavango Deltaet - måske det smukkeste sted i Afrika? Angiveligt højt sikkerhedsniveau når man rejser med børn Mange vilde dyr "the big five" Mange meget forskelligartede nationalparker Det glæder vi os til at finde ud af... 

Ulemper Botswana: Prisen Prisen Prisen Dårlige grusveje (hvis der da er veje) Det finder vi tids nok ud af... 

Rejseblog: Det var da noget mærkeligt noget! I år fik jeg som formentlig en af de sidste i Danmark en facebook side. Dråben var en oplevelse på et tropemedicinsk kursus i London, hvor vi var 70 deltagere fra hele verden. En af underviserne, en ældre herre, bekendtgjorde under sin forelæsning, at han havde lavet en facebookgruppe for deltagerne. Så kunne vi holde kontakten ved lige, når vi efterfølgende ville blive spredt i alle dele af verden. Han spurgte lidt henkastet ex. auditorium, om der skulle være nogle af deltagerne, der endnu ikke havde en facebook? Ganske rigtigt, en pensioneret indisk professor... og undertegnede! Det var naturligvis en særdeles ydmygende oplevelse (selv om jeg i det skjulte var lidt stolt over min standhaftighed :-) Derfor! Denne blog er et forsøg på, for en gangs skyld, at være lidt mere på forkant med udviklingen -, at være ung med de unge! Nåå jaa, og så kunne det måske være en sjov måde at mindes rejsen på på et senere tidspunkt. Skulle der samtidig være en enkelt eller to i familien eller blandt vennerne, som syntes det er sjovt at være med på tur til Afrika - sådan lidt på sikker afstand -, så er det en ekstra bonus! Eller andre læsere af bloggen som planlægger eller drømmer om en tur til Afrika, så hjerteligt velkommen ombord alle sammen. Ps. Internetforbindelsen er (heldigvis) dårlig i ørkenen, så der kan gå langt mellem opdateringerne. Vi samler til hobe. /Troels 

Billede

• Troels, Kulala Wilderness Camp nær Sossusvlei´s røde klitter, Namibia 2009. Man må tage hvad man kan få - det er småt med vandforsyningerne i ørkenen!