Udarbejdelse af rejseplan med Safari Drive

Forberedelser i London

I december 2011 holdt jeg et møde i London med Meregan Turner, som driver Safari Drive. Det er et engelsk specialrejsebureau, som har lavet "self-drive" safarier i det sydlige Afrika siden 1993.

Safari Drive
Vores rejsearrangør / sparringspartner

Meregan er tidligere professionel springrytter og racerkører (!) Hun har boet i Sydafrika, og rejst Afrika tyndt på kryds og tværs. Mødet i London var en god lejlighed til at se hinanden lidt an. Ikke mindst da det er en større investering at tage på ekspedition i Afrika, og da hele beløbet forfalder før afrejsen. På mødet i London fik jeg et godt indtryk af Meregan og firmaet Safari Drive. Vi diskuterede livligt og engageret spændende ruter gennem det sydlige Afrika. Det var herligt at være sammen med en, der er mindst lige så begejstret for Afrika :-)

På vej til Sandwich Harbour, Namibiatur 2009
Før tidevandet kommer! 

Safari Drive er især kendt for deres meget veludstyrede Land Rover Defenders. Herudover har de ry for at have et højt sikkerhedsniveau, bl.a.:

• Satellit telefon
• Satellit navigation
• 24 timers assistance inklusive "air rescue"
• Sikkerhedsbriefing ved ankomst
• Kørekursus før udlevering af Land Rover
• Alle tænkelige faciliteter i bilen, f.eks ekstra brændstoftank, vandtank, køleskab...
• Og meget mere

Om få dage får vi "syn for sagen", når forberedelserne skal stå deres prøve.

Solitaire, Khomas regionen, Namibiatur 2009
Det er surt at gå ned på udstyret!

Endelige rejserute vi nåede frem til...

Sun 15 July Arrive Windhoek, overnight River Crossing, Windhoek

Upon arrival in Windhoek you will be met and transferred to River Crossing, which is located just 15 minutes away from the centre of Windhoek. Situated at the top of a hill, it offers superb views of mountains in one direction and Windhoek in the other. The area surrounding the lodge is home to a variety of plains game including zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, and eland. The restaurant area is great to relax in, with views that will make any sundowner remarkable. There are just en-suite 20 bungalows here, each nearly decorated and welcoming. Here you can enjoy scenic drives, see the grounds on foot or for the experience rider, participate in morning or afternoon horse rides. There is also a wellness centre at the lodge with a spa that offers a range of massages.

Mon 16 July River Crossing, Windhoek
This morning you will be collected and taken to our base where you will be briefed on the vehicle, equipment, driving conditions, route and safety issues. Please expect this briefing to take at least two hours. You will also be asked to sign the safety affirmation form to confirm that you have read and understood all the contents of the Safari Drive Hand Book. You will also be directed to the best places to buy your fresh food stocks and other items you may need before departing Windhoek the following morning. After your briefing you will drive to the Windhoek Country Club Hotel reception (Duane will give you directions at your briefing) where you will be met by Be-local at a time to be confirmed. Please expect this essential 4x4 training to take a couple of hours.

Tue 17 July Spitzkoppe Camp, Southern Damaraland
Today you will drive to Spitzkoppe, which is one of the most beautiful areas in Namibia, consisting of an imposing granite rock formation set in the plains. You can walk in the area and climb up to Bushman’s Paradise, a small basin tucked between the domes of rock, where you can view the rock paintings done by Bushman of the past and gaze at the amazing view. There are a number of campsites in the area to choose from and most have basic facilities, fire places and refuse bins etc. There are plenty of locals willing to guide you for a small sum but we recommend using them once and then spend your time carefully clambering around the rocks - there are lots of paintings to discover. Here you will be camping, allow for a 4 hour drive.

Wed 18-19 July Madisa Campsite, Damaraland
Located in the heart of Damaraland, close to Twyfelfontein, the Petrified Forest and the famous rock paintings, you will find Madisa Campsite (meaning hello or welcome in the Damara / Nama language) which is a newly built campsite and a lovely place to stay. There are only 10 shaded campsites, each with excellent facilities; running water, braai and washing up facilities there is also a swimming pool. Madisa is heavily involved with the local community and has started projects such the Etameko Brilliant Boards project which provides learning boards to expose children aged between six and 15 years to a formal education and the Iyaloo Project which uses materials from used items of furniture and discarded building materials in an enterprise development program. Here you stay in a campsite. Allow for a 4 hour drive.

Fri 20-21 July Khowarib Lodge Campsite
Today you head South again to to Khowarib Lodge which nestles on the banks of the Hoanib river in the magnificent Khowarib Gorge in north west Namibia. The lodge has canvas chalets projecting out from the riverbank on stilts over the river bed providing unrivaled, shady views of the cliffs opposite. On the fringe of Kaokoland, the lodge offers a perfect jumping off point to explore the remote north west of the country, either independently or on one of the lodge's extensive guided tours. The immediate surrounding area of Damaraland has many rich and interesting activities, including desert adapted elephant and Himba settlements, within easy reach. Here you stay in a campsite. Allow for a full days drive.

Nær Sandwich Harbour, Namibiatur 2009
Få landmærker!

Sun 22-23 July Purros Campsite, Ngatutunge Pamwe, Kaokoland
Today you need to rise super early to take the very long and dusty drive north to Purros Campsite in southern Kaokoland. Purros is a wonderful and remote spot rarely visited. The campsite is set under trees in this spectacular desert area. There is water for showers and flush loos and the Himba family who run the camp will sell you firewood and take you on walks into the surrounding hills. Here you camp but will need to book and pay on arrival. Allow for a full days drive.  From Khowarib you will drive north through Sesfontein. There is a sign to the campsite, which is 150 km north of Sesfontein. The camp is not that easy to find and, before you cross the river in the tiny village of Purros, you turn right and drive along the river bank. You have to cross the river bed to get to the camp so great care must be taken if there has been rain or if there is likely to be any, as vehicles can be easily bogged down and be lost in the flash floods that appear out of nowhere.

Tue 24 July Etambura Camp, Orupembe
Today you continue on your journey further into the wonderfully remote and simply stunning scenery of the Kunene region. You again need to expect for a very long days drive stopping for a picnic lunch along the way. You continue along the DR3707 to Orupembe. You may need the villagers at Purros Campsite to assist with directions to find this road as it is not as straight-forward as you might think! Once at Orupembe, a tiny town characterised by one single shop, you head to the lovely a recently finished Etambura Camp. The camp has been built in conjunction, and is run by, the local Himba and Herero people and while it is staffed for your assistance you may not have any english speaking help. There are five canvas & thatch en-suite rooms, each with its own unique and breathtaking view out from the mountain top. There is hot water and a solar charging bank for your cameras or lap-tops, but the real beauty of this camp lies in its simplicity and symbiosis with the surrounding terrain. You stay here in en-suite rooms on a self catering basis. Allow for a full days drive.

Wed 25-26 July Etambura Camp, Orupembe
You remain based here for a second and third day. From here you can explore the area, visit a nearby abandoned marble mine and spend time in a semipermanent Himba settlement. Meet the head-lady, or local school teacher.

Nær Sandwich Harbour, Namibiatur 2009
Thea og Laust leger med sand :-)

Fri 27 July Opuwo Country Lodge Campsite
This morning you will drive to Opuwo and on to Opuwo Country Lodge where you will camp. There are 10 camping spots available all with their own BBQ spot as well as an electrical point. Wood is for sale. There is running hot and cold water and washbasins where pots and pans can be washed. You should be able to re-fuel here too, depending upon fuel availability of course. Here you will camp, allow for a 7 hour drive.

Sat 28-29 July Dolomite Camp, West Etosha
Today you will drive south to the brand new Dolomite Camp which is located in Western Etosha National Park. You must drive through the Galton Gate which is the western entrance at Ozonjuiti m’Bari and is only open to guests staying at this lodge. This camp is the most recent addition to the Namibian Wildlife Resort collection (completed in June 2011) and is built up on a rocky outcrop overlooking some lovely plains. Each of the chalets have their own viewing deck and are completely private, although neatly linked with pathways that wind around the rocks. Guided game drives are available here, giving you exclusive access to the game in the western side of the park. Here you will stay on a bed and breakfast basis in a Bush Chalet. Allow for a 3 hour drive.

MORE INFORMATION ON ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
Regarded by safari aficionados as one of Africa's greatest wildlife sanctuaries, Etosha National Park - dominated by its enormous shimmering salt pan - is an area of wild savannah and open woodland, and is home to a fantastic array of animals. Etosha National Park measures 4 590 square kilometres, while all the pans cover more than 5 100 square kilometres. Despite its arid appearance, the park is packed with an eclectic mix of familiar faces such as elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard and zebra as well as the desert specialists like springbok and the handsome gemsbok. It's also one of the best places in southern Africa to spot the endangered cheetah and black rhino not to mention rare antelope species like black-faced impala, Damara dik dik and roan antelope, plus there's a bird count of 340 species (an interesting blend of savannah, wetland and semi-desert birds).

Etosha nationalparken, Namibiatur 2009
Vi skulle den anden vej, forbi bilerne!

Mon 30 July Onguma Campsite, Etosha National Park
This evening you will stay at Onguma Bush Camp Campsite. Situated just outside the Von Lindequist Gate on the eastern edge of Etosha National Park the 5 private sites make a great place to relax while taking game drives into the park. Each site has its own braai area, bathroom and washing areas. The acacia trees offer much needed shade in the hotter seasons. The neighboring Onguma guest house has a pool and restaurant which are both open to campers. Guided trips are also on offer at the camp and are well worth it. Here you will be staying in a campsite. Allow for a full days game through Etosha National Park.

Tue 31 July Mukuri Village Campsite Bushmanland Tsumkwe
You drive to Bushmanland to camp at one of the locally run campsites in this interesting region. The best of these is Mukuri. The camp which is in the shade of a huge Baobab Tree has no facilities but is kept clean and wood is provided. A lovely Bushman by the name of Naici (pronounced Naychi) who speaks good English will greet you. He will arrange any activity you wish to do. You can go gathering food and herbs with the women of the village or tracking and hunting with the men. The woman make lovely and interesting jewellery which can be bought directly from them. The Bushmen in this area have been given the land where they can live their lives in the age old traditions if they wish. Here you will be camping, allow for a 6 hour drive.


Wed 01-03 Aug Kubu Queen House Boat, Shakawe
The very best alternative to an expensive camp in the heart of the Okavango Delta is this wonderful and genuine house boat based out of Shakawe on the Okavango River. The Kubu Queen is a small, privately owned wooden boat rebuilt by its owner Greg Thompson. Greg and Kate lovingly rebuilt the boat after it had sunk out of neglect and have now created a comfortable private lodge on the water. The boat has three double rooms, two small doubles a super shower, separate loo and an open air galley, all of which are situated on the main deck. Upstairs are the dining and sitting room areas where the bridge doubles as the bar! In the stern are two single beds open to and above the river and a stunning place to sleep. The boat travels into the heart of the Delta where each night you moor on an island where you can go on guided walks. A big fire is built on the banks each night so if you fancy an hour or two on land it is a good place to sit. Greg is a top river guide and his bird knowledge is excellent. Hippos, crocodile and birds are the main attractions but game can be seen when you travel deeper into the delta. The boat has two large flat bottomed motor boats for birding, fishing and trips into the smaller channels of the Delta. A minimum of three nights on this lovely boat is a totally wonderful and different way to see the Delta and witness African River life at is best. Your stay here is on a totally exclusive and fully inclusive basis. However all drinks are extra.

Etosha Pan, Namibiatur 2009
Laust på udflugt, >100 km2 pludder, men tænk på perspektiverne!

»...Det er til et heelt Maaltid!« sagde Kongedatteren, »men hvor faae vi Dyppelse fra!«  

»Den har jeg i Lommen!« sagde Klods-Hans. »Jeg har saa meget jeg kan spilde af det!« og saa heldte han lidt Pludder af Lommen. »Det kan jeg lide!« sagde Kongedatteren, »Du kan da svare! og Du kan tale og Dig vil jeg have til Mand! men veed Du, at hvert Ord vi sige og har sagt, skrives op og kommer imorgen i Avisen! ved hvert Vindue seer Du staae tre Skrivere og en gammel Oldermand, og Oldermanden er den Værste for han kan ikke forstaae!« og det sagde hun nu for at gjøre ham bange. Og alle Skriverne vrinskede og slog en Blæk-Klat paa Gulvet. »Det er nok Herskabet!« sagde Klods-Hans, »saa maa jeg give Oldermanden det Bedste!« og saa vendte han sine Lommer og gav ham Pluddren i Ansigtet. »Det var fiint gjort!« sagde Kongedatteren, »det kunde jeg ikke have gjort! men jeg skal nok lære det!« - Og saa blev Klods-Hans Konge, fik en Kone og en Krone og sad paa en Throne, og det har vi lige ud af Oldermandens Avis - og den er ikke til at stole paa!

H. C. Andersen 1855 (kilde)

Sat 04 Aug Guma Lagoon
Guma Lagoon Camp is situated on the northwestern edge of the spectacular Okavango Delta wetland system. Hidden amidst a grove of beautiful ebony and fig trees on the banks of Guma Lagoon, the camp is a haven for fishermen and birdwatchers alike. Here you will be staying in a campsite.

A NOTE ABOUT THE CAMPSITES,  BOTSWANA
The campsites in Botswana National Parks have limited facilities, there is no fuel or shops at all so you must be totally self sufficient. In Moremi, Savute & northern Chobe the camps have all been recently refurbished and have new, clean & well maintained ablution blocks with running water and sometimes even hot showers!. You must be prepared to have game in the camp with you as there are no fences to keep animals out. Baboons can be a particular nuisance, they will steal from your camp and from inside your vehicle so keep doors closed and don’t leave food unattended, the
baboons are very bold and can be aggressive. You must expect bad single track roads, deep deep sand and in places black cotton mud and deep surface water which must not be crossed.

Sun 05-06 Aug Grasslands Safari Lodge Campsite
Take the long drive to Grassland Safari Lodge which is located on the western edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, some 80km north east of Ghanzi. Apart from the lodge, there is a very pretty campsite about 4kms away across the bush. Access to the swimming pool at the lodge and activities, are included in the camping fee. There are two excellent reasons for taking the long and dusty drive to Grasslands. The first is the totally amazing and the once in a lifetime opportunity to join the San Bushmen on a food gathering excursion. You will begin to understand a little about how these extraordinary people are able to live sustainably in this harsh environment, how they can read the Grasslandssigns of nature and determine animals behaviour and movement from tracks and spoor. The whole experience is done with tact and a huge amount of pride from the San themselves who are very proud to share their ancient culture with their guests. It is also possible to visit the San village and see traditional cooking and crafts on longer stays. Your hosts are Neeltjie de Graaff-Bowen and her husband. Neeltjie speaks fluent Naro (Bushman) as she was bought up with many of the people who now live on the ranch and loves and understands the San from the bottom of her heart. You will see this in the time you spend with her and her Bushman friends. While here you will also learn about the Bowen’s rescue work with lions and wild dogs in the Kalahari region’s farmlands. You will see first hand how rogue and orphaned animals are saved from almost certain death, before being moved to more suitable locations, thereby protecting them and conserving the future of their species. This work is a huge burden on their life and resources as it is not possible to find safe homes for many of the lions. They had 5 prides totaling 29 lions at the last visit but all are in huge enclosures and are well and happy. The 19 wild dogs will find new homes slightly easier. For riders horse trails can also be arranged with a bush lunch. Here you will be staying in the campsite. Activities are extra. Allow 6 hours drive.


Tue 07-08 Aug Sunday Pan, Central Kalahari Game ReserveFrom Grasslands head to the Tsau Gate. You then drive to the Sunday Pan Campsites which lie in the northern sector of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve just north of Deception Pan. Next to Sunday Pan is Leopard Pan and both of these are fairly large pans. There are three pitches at Sunday Pan and one at Leopard Pan they are all nestled in the edge of the bush close to the main open pan area, all pitches have fire pits. The lions in the region have been observed by man rather too much and thus have little fear so please be careful. You stay here in a campsite, allow for a 6 hour drive.

Thu 09-10 Aug Khumaga Campsite, Makgadikgadi National Park Today you drive to the National Park Campsite on the edge of Makgadikgadi National Park called Khumaga. The campsite has good facilities and is only a short drive from the main road and the park. Here you will be camping in a campsite, allow for 4 hour drive.

Sat 11 Aug Third Bridge, Moremi Wildlife Reserve Drive through Moremi to stay at the most popular of the Moremi Camps at Third Bridge. Set in trees and across a bridge, this pretty campsite is regularly visited by all types of game including lions that cross the bridge and can come right in to the camp. The baboons here can be a big problem so you must be very careful to keep everything shut in the vehicle as they will steal anything they can carry. Here you will be camping, allow for a 5 hour drive.

Sun 12 Aug Third Bridge, Moremi Wildlife Reserve and Boat trip Today you can take a boat trip. Stay here for a second night. You can do a three hour boat trip into the Delta today.

NB: PLEASE BE AWARE! YOU MUST READ CAREFULLY THE HAND BOOK PAGE 51 ABOUT CROSSING WATER.

Mon 13 Aug Savute Campsite, Chobe National ParkThis morning you will continue north through Chobe to the Savute Campsite which is located next to the Savute Park Rangers Post. Facilities have been upgraded with showers and loos and the campsite is protected by an elephant-proof embankment but it’s not great, the facilities are currently cleaned daily and you should be able to get hot water too! The campsite itself has individual sites with braai pits and is generally shady. However, the ground can be dusty later in the dry season. You also need to keep an eye out for the resident bull elephants who have become rather a problem searching the campsites for food! The area is interesting with plenty of game to be seen at the right time of year on the vast open plains that so typify this area. Savute is situated deep in the Chobe National Park in an area known for its rock paintings, its large hyena and lion populations and for the old bull elephants that stay near the waterholes. With the Savute channel now flowing year round the game here is spectacular and the area lush and green in places. Here you will be camping, allow for a 6 hour drive.

14-15 Aug Ihaha Campsite, Chobe RiverThis morning you will continue your journey north through Chobe National Park. You reach a new tar road at Kachikau which significantly cuts down your traveling time and allows you more time to game drive along the Chobe riverfront. You head to Ihaha campsite which is locates right on the banks of the Chobe River. There are no longer any fences around these sites and game will find its way into the camp, including some very noisy and naughty baboons! You spend the night camping on the banks of the Chobe River in this idyllic spot. This part of the park boasts one of the highest concentrations of elephant in Africa as well as a wide variety of other wildlife, which moves onto the flood plains to drink. There is an ablution block and the camping areas are secluded. Here you will be camping, allow for a 4 hour drive.

Thu 16-17 Aug Waterberry Lodge, Livingstone, ZambiaToday you cross the border into Zambia via the ferry at Kazangula and progress to Livingstone where you stay at Waterberry Lodge. The border crossing into Zambia can be quite an experience and this border can be particularly busy so it is really important to remain calm and be polite! We recommend you get to the border as early as possible as it can get very busy later in the day. You drive to Waterberry Lodge, where you will hand over the vehicle and give a de-brief of your trip. Waterberry Lodge is located on the banks of the Zambezi River, amongst Mopane woodland, Waterberry Lodge is only 45 minutes from Livingstone town and Victoria Falls. With only seven chalets, some overlooking the river and others overlooking the Dam, each is secluded and has en-suite facilities. They serve delicious meals in the main lodge on the balcony, overlooking the river and the chef is very good and creates delicious salads and fresh food. Your hosts, Gail & Kevin will look after you brilliantly and there is such a homely feeling around the lodge that you will feel very welcome. When walking around the lodge, you need to be very careful of hippo which will come through camp on a regular basis. In particular, the birds at Waterberry are stunning and many species can be spotted in the grounds of the lodge. You will debrief on your vehicle this afternoon. You stay here on a full board basis including all meals and one in house activity.

Sat 18 Aug Depart
Today you will be transferred to the airport for your onward flight.

Pia og pilot i luften over Wictoria vandfaldet, Zimbabwe 1997