Into Kaokoland, Africa´s last wilderness

Right now, we are at Khowarib Lodge Campsite. Tomorrow, the adventure continues in the most remote region in Namibia, when we head for Kaokoland. Below, you can read about this special area and part of the trip, we look very much forward to!

Kaokoland Namibia 2012
On the way from Sesfontain to Puros on D3707

"Kaokoland" (since 1990, Kunene Region) remains an informal name for one of the wildest and least populated areas in north-west Namibia, with a population density of one person every 2 km². The Kaokoland area extends south-north from the Hoanib River to the Kunene River, which also marks the border between Namibia and Angola. It is largely mountainous, dry, and rocky as seen on pictures above and below.

Family in Kaokoland 2012. Near "Puros view point". 
We didn't dare drive the Land Rover the last stretch up the mountain!

Desert Elephants

Desert elephant in Puros Canyon.
It chased our Land Rover!
Namibia 2012.

Kaokoland includes several desert-dwelling species, most notably a population of desert elephants that are sometimes classified as a distinct subspecies of African elephants due to their unique adaptations. These elephants have longer legs, bigger feet, and an incredible ability to withstand periods of drought, which led some to consider them a separate subspecies. However, today they are regarded as 'desert-adapted' elephants. The herds in this area remain separate from other elephant herds in Namibia and only appear to have longer legs and bigger feet because they consume less food than elephants in more abundant areas such as Etosha National Park, the Caprivi, and the Chobe region in Botswana.

The desert elephants inhabit a range of three thousand square kilometers and regularly travel up to two hundred kilometers in search of water. They drink only every three or four days, compared to elephants in Etosha who drink 100 to 200 liters of water a day. They also seem to be more environmentally conscious than other elephants: unlike other elephants, the desert-adapted elephants rarely knock over trees, break branches, or tear away bark.

They commonly roam the dry riverbeds of the westward-flowing Huab, Hoanib, Hoarusib, and Khumib rivers. It is along these riverbeds that the animals find occasional spring-fed waterholes and most of their nutrient-rich foods: mopane bark, tamarisk, reeds, and the pods, bark, and leaves of the ana tree. 

On a typical day, desert elephants travel up to sixty kilometers over rocky, difficult terrain between feeding areas and waterholes. When water is truly scarce, such as during times of drought, they dig holes, commonly known as gorras, in the dry riverbeds. Water seeps up from below the surface, creating a much-needed water source for themselves and other animals in the area.

Our son in Hoarusib riverbed after our elephant encounter.
Kaokoland, Namibia 2012

Puros conservancy (source)

The Himba

The Puros Conservancy covers a vast area of over 3,500 square kilometers but is home to only a small population of around 300 people, most of whom speak Otjihimba. The Himba, part of the larger Herero language group, first settled in what is now the Kunene Region about five hundred years ago, arriving from the north. While the main Herero community moved on to central Namibia in the 1750s, some groups remained in northern Kunene and eventually became known as the Himba. In this remote and mostly arid area, the Himba have retained a strong cultural identity that is still evident today. Due to its harsh environment, the Puros area has always been marginal for settlement but has supported small groups of semi-nomadic Himba pastoralists for generations. Permanent settlement in Puros only began to develop around forty years ago.

Visit Puros Traditional Village, Namibia 2012

Visit Puros Traditional Village, Namibia 2012 

Visit Puros Traditional Village, Namibia 2012

Visit Puros Traditional Village, Namibia 2012

The traditional culture of the Himba is iconic. Proud pastoralists herd their cattle across the spectacular landscapes of the northwest, while women in traditional dress, anointed with a mixture of butterfat and red ochre, tend to village tasks. Although the settlement of Puros has gradually lost many traditional Himba attributes, the nearby Puros Traditional Village offers visitors insights into the cultural heritage of the Himba. It showcases practical aspects of daily life and explains important elements such as the holy fire and the system of dual descent that governs Himba society. The traditional village also keeps alive a sense of pride in the community's cultural heritage.

Puros Traditional Village, seen from view point
Namibia, 2012

Wildlife

Since the establishment of conservancies, wildlife numbers in communal areas have rebounded from historic lows prior to independence. The elephants and lions of Puros are emblematic [symbolsk], providing countless visitors with thrilling encounters. Giraffes are common, and black rhinos roam the remote hinterland. Kudu, gemsbok, springbok, Hartmann’s mountain zebra, duiker, steenbok, and klipspringer all occur here, stalked by an assortment of predators, including leopard and cheetah, spotted and brown hyena, and jackal. Puros is completely unfenced, allowing wildlife to move freely across the conservancy and beyond its borders.

Lonely Gemsbok seen in the stone desert
between Puros and Orupempe
Kaokoland, Namibia, 2012

Ostrich seen between Sesfontain and Puros.
Kaokoland, Namibia, 2012

Our son was an expert at spotting owls!
On steep access road to Etambura Camp
Kaokoland, Namibia, 2012

Free-Roaming Lions

Free-roaming lions in the Kunene Region have recovered from a population low of only 25 individuals in the mid-nineties to well over a hundred today. The lions range as far south as the Ugab River, north to the Marienfluss, and west to the misty beaches of the Skeleton Coast. Conflicts with the lions pose a huge challenge for local farmers, and many lions continue to be shot and poisoned. While other predators such as spotted hyena, leopard, and cheetah cause more incidents each year, lions feature most prominently in the consciousness of people, as they also present a direct threat to human life.

We haven't had the pleasure of seeing lions in Kaokoland (yet),
but this one my wife and I saw south of Etosha, Namibia 2022