Via Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail to Puros

Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail, first part,
Namibia 2024.

While staying at Etendeka Main Camp, the manager at this lovely place recommended we take the “Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail” near Sesfontein on our way to Puros. We later confirmed this with a guide at Khowarib Lodge, who also endorsed the route. This guide mentioned that we could follow him to Hoanib the next day, as he was taking some tourists along the entire trail to “Amspoort Gorge.”

I felt a great deal of responsibility for our route and safety, so I was somewhat anxious before our departure the next day. Mainly because I know - from experience - that help can be very far away if you get stuck or if the Land Cruiser has technical problems in such a remote area. However, it was somewhat reassuring to know that we had two highly capable vehicles equipped with all the necessary expedition gear, Tracks4Africa for navigation, and a satellite phone for emergencies. 

Despite this, it can still be very stressful to break down along the way, something we have "enjoyed" several times before! Most recently on the Skeleton Coast, where we were stuck 120 km away from the nearest help with no satellite phone, after getting caught in quicksand in a salt pan (link scary report). Or when our car nearly caught fire in Central Kalahari Game Reserve with endless miles to the nearest help. Fortunately, we had a satellite phone that time (link report).

We ultimately decided that the route via the Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail to Puros looked very exciting, and we were all eager for the challenge! Early in the morning, we left Khowarib Lodge, following the guide and his guests. And ss soon as we left the D3707 after Sesfontein, we could see there were many different tracks in the sand. You constantly have to choose a track while trying to avoid the deeper ones with the loosest sand! 

We quickly spotted the first giraffes,
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

In the beginning, the drive was relatively smooth, and we quickly spotted the first giraffes. 

Ostriches, Okambonde Plains,
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

We passed the vast “Okambonde Plains,” surrounded by majestic mountains, where we saw some beautiful ostriches. 

Near the “Elephant Song Community Campsite,” we reached the “Hoanib Trail Entrance Gate,” where – if I remember correctly – we paid 700 NAD per car for a day pass to the gorge. Here, we lost contact with the guide from Khowarib Lodge, who was long gone by the time we paid and passed through the gate. That meant he also missed out on his rather princely tip!!

We were alone, except for the animals,
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

Now, we were all alone, except for the animals, entering the gorge on a challenging track without a guide but with help from Tracks4Africa! 

We drove along the dry riverbed, and in many places, the sand was very loose with deep tire tracks. It’s crucial to maintain momentum when crossing loose sand, and if you need to downshift, you have to do it quickly to avoid getting stuck. Also, remember to engage traction control before tackling a tough passage!

There were moments when it felt like the vehicles were on the verge of getting stuck, but our Land Cruisers proved impressively capable of handling everything we threw at them! Luckily, we had two cars traveling together, which significantly increased our safety since we could pull each other out if necessary.

We reached “Die Poort,” a narrow gorge between two cliffs. It was perhaps the most challenging part of the entire route, with powder-like sand. Things almost went wrong here. Another Land Cruiser was coming from the opposite direction through the narrow gorge and barely avoided colliding with us by veering off the track. You can’t just change direction with a nearly 3-ton vehicle! The powdery sand made things even more difficult. I’m sure many people have gotten stuck here! Fortunately, we made it through with both cars, maintaining momentum through the tough passages, and the track gradually became easier and breathtakingly beautiful.

We continued driving alongside the dry riverbed, crossing it several times – some crossings were a bit tricky, but not quite beyond the capabilities of the vehicles (or the drivers). We could see the Hoanib Valley Tented Camp, impressively isolated on the right mountainside, as we took a break by a waterhole. Shortly after, we saw a mother elephant with her calf in the riverbed, just as we rounded a corner. We quickly had to keep our distance.

Mother elephant with calf in riverbed,
just as we rounded a corner, 
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail, Namibia, 2024.

We proceeded to the “Mudorib Waterhole,” where we took the track towards Puros (another 120 km). We decided not to continue along the Hoanib Riverbed to Amspoort Gorge and then to Puros via the Hoarusib Riverbed, as that would have added more 4WD challenges and even more time. We didn’t want to arrive after dark. This later proved to be a wise decision when we eventually tackled the Hoarusib Riverbed 4WD Trail! It was quite challenging with water, mud, and loose sand (link to report coming).

Wife near Mudorib Waterhole, 
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

The start of the small track from Mudorib Waterhole to Puros was hard to find, but once again, we were thankful for Tracks4Africa, which guided us to the correct starting point (trial and error). 

Track to Puros from Mudorib Waterhole
Namibia, 2024.

Once we found the trailhead, the final stretch – a long drive to Puros – began. First, we traversed areas with large rocks on the track and through the stony desert – totally desolate – and then across sandy plains, equally remote. The whole 120 km journey, and we didn’t encounter a single vehicle or person! This is not a place you want to venture unprepared – always travel with two vehicles and a satellite phone!

Our Land Cruiser and campsite,
Puros, Namibia, 2024.

We finally arrived in Puros, tired but relieved, and found a lovely campsite. You can read more about all our accommodations here (link report) and here (link report).