A journey through our last 7 accommodations in Namibia

Epupa Falls, sunset, Namibia, 2024.

 

This blog post describes our last 7 accommodation spots from Opuwo to Windhoek, via Epupa Falls, the Kunene River, Etosha, and Omaruru. I also talk about small children blocking the road and an attempted scam at the Puma gas station in Ruacana. You can find the first accommondations here (link report)

Opuwo Country Lodge

Arriving at Opuwo Country Lodge,
Opuwo, Namibia, 2024.

As far as I know, this is the only comfortable lodge in Opuwo, and it was a great place to recharge after 7 days in the very remote part of Kaokoland. The lodge is located in the colorful town of Opuwo, where you can see many different ethnic groups in their traditional clothing, which can consist of very few garments and vibrant adornments [udsmykning]! 

Colorful town of Opuwo,
Namibia, 2024.

Opuwo is a fascinating and lively place full of color, but it can also feel a bit overwhelming or intimidating if you're not used to traveling in rural Africa. We last visited 5 years ago (2019), and this time we noticed that the street vendors had become a bit less aggressive, for instance, when refueling diesel, in the parking lot, and while shopping at the Spar supermarket.

Opuwo Country Lodge, infinity pool,
Opuwo, Namibia, 2024.

The lodge itself sits atop a hill and features a striking infinity pool with a beautiful view of the natural surroundings. There’s also a large restaurant, bar, reception area, and decent internet access. The food was really good, and the service was friendly. The rooms were OK but showed signs of age. However, they had everything we needed, including plenty of power outlets, a fridge, and hot water. All in all, it was a great place to recharge for the next part of the journey, but there’s no need to stay longer than a night.

Warning: Children jumping in front of cars on the way from Opuwo to Epupa Falls! 

Friends Land Cruiser on the road ahead,
driving from Opuwo to Epupa Falls,
here without children blocking the road!
Namibia, 2024. 

A very strange and new experience for us was the road from Opuwo to Epupa Falls (C43/D3704). Especially during the first half, we encountered numerous children blocking the road, begging for money, water, lollipops, etc. We've traveled to Namibia six times and have never experienced anything like this before, only minor episodes. 

I believe there were about 15 roadblocks on the way to Epupa Falls. The children only moved aside at the last moment, and some were holding stones in their hands. The most bizarre encounter was with four small children on two donkeys who rode into the middle of the road when they saw us coming. At the same time, from the opposite direction, three cars were speeding towards us, and it’s clear that a tragedy is waiting to happen. Cars driving at 70-120 km/h and children in the road are a dangerous combination. This issue must be addressed as soon as possible! 

Please refrain from handing out lollipops, pencils, etc., through the window—it only encourages dangerous and undesirable behavior and doesn’t help anyone ("white savior syndrome"). Instead, support organizations that help vulnerable populations. I’ve seen several good posts about such organizations on Namibia Facebook pages. If this behavior continues, it will eventually lead to an accident. Also, it will deter many from visiting Epupa Falls.

The most unfortunate aspect is that in the past, we were happy to help by giving water from our car’s tank in very remote areas, in specific situations, to people who politely requested it. Now, with hordes of children begging for sweets and money, it affects those we could have helped in truly remote, dry areas because it’s impossible to stop 15-20 times along a road—and there’s a risk of more children jumping out from the roadside bushes.

Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp 

Entrence, Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp,
Namibia, 2024.

We stayed for 2 nights at campsite 1 in Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp. Campsite 1 was the best campsite, with a beautiful location right by the Kunene River, private electricity, and access to a clean communal ablution block with hot water. In addition, we had free access to the well-maintained lodge with restaurant and bar, which offered good food and drinks. 

Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp,
Campsite 1, Namibia, 2024.

The only minor issue was that we experienced issues with the internet. You’re allowed a certain amount of data every 24 hours, but in our case, the access didn’t reset after 24 hours. We pragmatically bought two vouchers with plenty of data, but one didn’t work (it was replaced), and the other only worked for a short time. The manager tried tediously to resolve the issue but couldn’t. He saw that someone else was using the code?! The likely explanation is that someone else had accessed the voucher and used the code. The money was refunded, but I wasted a lot of energy on internet issues, something we hadn’t experienced elsewhere. However, it did not spoil the overall good experience with this campsite and lodge.

Sand and palm trees by the riverbank,
45-minute walk from the falls.
Epupa, Namibia, 2024

One day, we walked to see the impressive Epupa waterfalls, which span a large area. And the next day, we walked from the falls to the spot marked "Wilderness Camping" on Tracks4Africa. This is a breathtaking 45-minute walk along the river to an idyllic area of sand and palm trees by the riverbank. I highly recommend the walk. We also tried river rafting on the Kunene River, which I’ve described in a previous report (link report). It’s a very peaceful trip suitable for everyone, unlike our previous experience with canoeing further up the river (link report).

Camp Cornie 

Campsite 1, Camp Cornie,
Namibia, 2024.

Campsite 1, Camp Cornie,
Namibia, 2024.

We stayed for 2 nights at campsite 1 in Camp Cornie, located about 40 km upriver from Epupa Falls. This is a beautifully situated camp, directly on the banks of the Kunene River, with large private spaces, private bathrooms, and electricity outlets. There are large palm trees providing shade, and a beautiful sandy beach (but no swimming due to crocodiles!). The couple who have run the place for about 2 years were very friendly but not very forthcoming. You had to pull information out of them. The canoeing option mentioned on their website wasn’t available during our visit, and there weren’t many tour options. Still, it’s a very beautiful, peaceful, and clean place, with easy access to Epupa Falls. You could easily stay here in peace and take trips to Epupa Falls. 

Swimming pool, Camp Cornie,
Namibia, 2024.

There’s a lovely swimming pool and bar area where you can relax in the shade and cool off in the pool (42°C). Overall, it’s a highly recommended place for those seeking peace and nature. Plus, it had the best internet on the entire trip with free access, in contrast to the previous place!

The Road via D3700 to Ruacana Falls 

D3700, Kunene River, Namibia, 2024.

This stretch was uneventful and fine. I will described the D3700 route in another report (link will follow).

Puma Fuel Stop Ruacana (Scam Warning) 

Illustration only,
(from refueling Puros),
Namibia, 2024

A small warning: we filled up with diesel at the Puma station in Ruacana. There were four pumps, and we were waved over to one, but our friends were also directed to the same pump on the opposite side. The attendant was unusually chatty. I checked that he reset the pump before refueling (based on previous experiences). After refueling, a car pulled up behind ours (despite three other pumps being available), and the attendant asked us to move forward slightly. Fortunately, I checked the amount on the pump (944 NAD) before moving. The attendant then came over with the card terminal, but now the amount had jumped to 1244 NAD, and the pump had been reset. I immediately pointed out that the correct amount was 944 NAD, and the attendant quickly apologized, saying, “I got confused,” and corrected the amount. This was clearly an attempt to scam us out of 300 NAD, involving at least the attendant and the car that pulled up behind us. 

So, be careful! I immediately warned our friends, who took a photo of the pump after refueling. Whether the other attendant and the cashier inside were involved remains uncertain, but none of them seemed particularly surprised. Perhaps Puma should investigate this station! 

Fortunately, we didn’t encounter similar issues at any other gas stations during our 6600 km journey through Namibia and Kgalagadi, but we are always vigilant when refueling.

Dolomite Camp 

Dolomite Camp, Hut 14 to the left!
Etosha, Namibia, 2024.

We spent two nights in huts 14 and 15. Hut 14 has the most incredible view of the waterhole, where we saw a pride of 7 lions when we arrived and throughout the two days we stayed. And no, they weren’t stuffed lions; they roamed freely and scared off the other animals ;-) 

Pool overlooking the "savannah",
Dolomite Camp, Namibia, 2024.

Dolomite Camp is all about location! You stay atop a rocky hill with a magnificent 260-degree view of the area. There’s a pool overlooking the savannah and a beautiful bar/relaxation area. However, the service ranged from poor to decent (depending on the staff), and the food at the restaurant was nothing special but acceptable. You can tell it’s an government-run camp. On the good side, Dolomite is in the far west of Etosha, a more remote part of the park, and the roads in this part were in good condition, except for the short stretches leading to the waterholes, which were very corrugated. 

Galton Gate, Vest Etosha,
Namibia, 2024.

Also, the staff at Galton Gate were friendly and efficient, and it was a good experience using this entrance.

Omurenga Lodge

Namibia, 2024.

We stayed at the luxurious Omurenga Lodge, near Omaruru, for two nights. We had the Giraffe and Leopard villas, both tastefully decorated with high-end amenities! Leopard had a large bathtub, while Zebra featured both indoor and outdoor showers. Both villas came with spacious private terraces equipped with sun loungers, as well as large indoor areas with plenty of space. Naturally, there was air conditioning, a refrigerator, and a variety of creams and shampoos.

Omurenga Lodge, main building by night,
Namibia, 2024.

Zebra Villa, Omurenga Lodge,
Namibia, 2024.

Dining room, Omurenga Lodge,
Namibia, 2024.

The main building included a large dining room and two side wings furnished with leather furniture and books. There was an infinity pool with a stunning view of the surrounding area. Due to a prolonged drought, there weren't many activities available during our stay, but it was only a 40-minute drive to the charming town of Omaruru. 

Wood carving shop, Omaruru,
Namibia, 2024. 

In Omaruru, we visited a great wood carving shop offering high-quality souvenirs. Also, we dined in the small courtyard opposite the Spar across the main road, next to the Pharmacy. The courtyard and café were fantastic, offering a wide range of food and drinks. Their extensive coffee selection and thick milkshakes are highly recommended, and they have free fast 5G internet!

The hostess and staff at Omurenga were exceptionally friendly and attentive, always checking on our well-being. The food was some of the best we’ve experienced in Namibia, and the wines offered were of good quality. The lodge is ideal for a larger group renting multiple rooms or even the whole place, as it can normally accommodate eight guests in four villas, with the option to increase capacity to twelve by including an extra villa.

River Crossing Lodge

Pool (one out of two), 
River Crossing Lodge,
Namibia, 2024.

This was our final accommodation, conveniently located on the road leading to the airport. It’s not a cozy boutique hotel like Olive Grove, but rather a large, practical place with a restaurant, pool, and bar. The staff were friendly, and there are two pools. Our cabin (No. 10) was fine and had air conditioning, but despite waiting a long time, the shower only produced lukewarm water.