Tuesday, 1 November 2022

Tok Tokkie Trails & Namib desert



Bedroom Tok Tokkie Trails

We arrive at the Tok Tokkie reception after some wonderful days around BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse (link). When we look around, we are surrounded by mountains in all directions. We are in the Namibrand Nature Reserve, which is located in the Namib Desert. This should be the largest desert in the world?! It´s 2000 km in length and 100 km in width, and it only receives 100 mm rain per year, although some years no rain at all. It´s also supposed to be the oldest desert in the world (however that is determined?).

The next 3 days (2 nights), we expect extreme temperatures and spectacular nature when we cover approx. 20 km on foot. We come well prepared, first thanks to a very experienced guide who has done this tour numerous times, but also thanks to high factor sunscreen, good walking boots, lots of water, and a positive attitude. 

Tok Tokkie Trails, view desert

Before heading into the desert, we visit a place called “NaDEET Centre” which focus on sustainable living. The centre was awarded with the UNESCO price in 2018 for their extraordinary work teaching Namibian schoolchildren how to save the sparse resources. It´s an extraordinary place and worth a visit.   

NaDEET Centre, Tok Tokkie Trails

Late afternoon, we leave the Tok Tokkie reception. We have about 1,5 hour walk for our first overnight camp, the “Horseshoe Camp”. We drive to the starting point, eight persons in total. Beside my wife and I, a couple from Switzerland and two couples from France. All wonderful people. During the whole 3 days (2 nights) trip, our experienced guide Sebastian shows us big and small things in the desert; plants, animals, insects, tracks, etc. A bit like our tour at Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail (link) although more sand and less stones.

On the way to the starting point, Tok Tokkie Trails

The surroundings are magnificent. Red sand everywhere, with scattered trees and mountains in the distance. We line up one behind the other when we climb dunes in the heath.

Landscape, Tok Tokkie Trails

When we reach Horseshoe Camp, the table is set for dinner!

 Set for dinner, Tok Tokkie Trails

We are shown our “open AirB&B bedroom" in a private sand dune. We have two simple field beds with bedrolls. In addition, a bag of water serve as a sink as well as "racks" and "tables" to keep luggage above ground in consideration of snakes and scorpions.

Demonstration bedroom, Tok Tokkie Trails

Bedroom, Horseshoe Camp, Tok Tokkie Trails

Before dinner, we get the mandatory sundowner G&T with a view of the desert. The chef prepares our dinner, which is eaten under the starry sky to the sounds of the desert, especially geckos. We are lucky to have an unobstructed view of the starry sky and Milky Way.

Sebastian points out the Southern Cross, Jupiter and two galaxies. This is a UNESCO "dark sky" area with no disturbing light for several hundred kilometers around.

UNESCO "dark sky" area,
Tok Tokkie Trails

After dinner, we crawl into shelter in our lovely bedrolls, which consist of a waterproof bivouac cover with bedding inside. You lie comfortably protected, high above the ground. “Biological errands” are done at a nearby dry dump with an unobstructed view of the desert.

It is fantastic to sleep in the open air on the back with an unobstructed view of the starry sky. In this area, there are i.e. leopards and hyenas, but luckily they keep their distance from humans (and we don't wander around at night)

The next morning, we are awakened with coffee at the bed (!) at 06.00. At 06.30, breakfast is ready. At 07.30, we venture into the desert towards a mountain pass.


Coffee at the bed, Tok Tokkie Trails 

View from bedroom, Tok Tokkie Trails

On our way 2nd day, Tok Tokkie Trails

Mountain pass, Tok Tokkie Trails

After approx. 4 hours, we reach our lunch and siesta place on the other side of the pass. Here, we enjoy a 4-hour break in the middle of the day, as it is too hot to hike at this time. All eight of us + guide sleep in in the comfortable deck chairs under a canvas, next to a large tree below a mountain range. One of the very few large trees we see on this part of the trip.

Siesta in middle of 2nd day, Tok Tokkie Trails

At the end of the day, the temperature has dropped to below 30C so we can walk the last 2 hours to “Dune Camp”. An equally enchanting camp in the middle of the red dunes. 

Tok Tokkie Trails, near 2nd camp

We have another delicious dinner, but now under cloudy sky with a few drops of rain - a very rare event in the Namib Desert. 

Before dinner, we take a bath in the primitive shower cabin with "bucket shower" and unobstructed view of an Oryx passing by. An assistant guide provides perfectly tempered water (!). This is truly luxury in the desert.

Bucket shover, Tok Tokkie Trails

We enjoy the time with the other guests. It is a privilege and pleasure to meet people from all over the world. We are encouraged to jump from dunes together while photo memories from Tok Tokkie are taken.

Tok Tokkie Trails group of 8 persons

The two of us ;-)

At night, we hear a herd of hyenas passing by. Sebastian is ready with a flashlight, so they avoid the
camp. We both sleep like babies...

Bedroom 2nd camp, Tok Tokkie Trails

Last day, approx. two hour walk back to reception through the red dunes. An adventurous trip is complete. We just manage to see a snake before the end of the trip, the "Namib Sand Snake". It´s harmless.

 "Namib Sand Snake" Tok Tokkie Trails

Tok Tokkie Trails comes with our best recommendation! Also, our guide Sebastian & helpers, our Chef Tiresa and the assistant guide Stefan.


Tok Tokkie Trails 2022


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