Trekking to the top of Mt Losberg in Namibrand - a day in paradise

 

We made it!! Happy tourist and guides on top of
mountain pass Mt. Losberg after long trek
from Wolwedans Dune Camp

Through a rift valley to mountain pass at Mt Losberg (1939m)

As I enjoy the beautiful view from Wolwedan's Dune Camp (link), there is a distinct landmark to the east towering on the other side of the dunes and open plain; "Mt Losberg". It is the second highest mountain in the Namibrand Nature Reserve. 

I ask our guide Jacks “have you ever been up to the top of the mountain”? Jacks replies, “I've been there once with a couple from Switzerland. We first tried from the north, but had to give up after 4 hours, when we had only reached halfway. Then we tried via the rift valley in the middle of the mountain, and it worked". Jacks adds, "I have not heard of any other tourists on Wolwedans who have climbed the mountain, it is 2000 meters and it´s very hot in the desert".

Mt Losberg seen accros plain from
 Wolwedans Dune Camp

I love a challenge! But I'm also aware that it's a big task without any kind of help nearby if you get unwell or have an accident on the mountain. There is no route up and many large boulders to be passed. In addition, the rift valley is "leopard territory", although they normally avoid people, not to mention snake and scorpion territory, both more active here in the spring heat. It is important to be cautious and look carefully everywhere you go.

I mention to the owner of Wolwedans, Stefan, that I am considering climbing Mt Losberg. He replies "be careful, it's a big challenge, it shouldn't develop into a rescue mission!" However, if I am serious, he will suggest that we take the new "internal" Adrian from South Africa with us, so that we are 3 people. It would later turn out to be a good idea.

At 6 in the morning, we take the Land Rover to the small airstrip in the desert, where the richest guests arrive in private planes. It is located at the foot of Mt. Losberg. We have approx. 6 liters of water with us and packed lunches. I have been told the normal recommendation is 500 ml of water per person per hour - not sure if that covers >30C. However in theory, we have the equivalent of 4 hours of water per person!

It quickly turns out that the stony plain that must be passed before reaching the entrance to the valley is very difficult. It´s full of melon-sized stones lying loose. It is concentrated walking, where you are constantly looking down.

Difficult access to valley, Jacks & Adrian
Melon -sized loose stones!

The mood is still high as we reach the foot of the valley after longer than expected! We cannot see the entire route, as the rift winds. But we already sense that there is no path anywhere. Instead, large stones/boulders that must be passed on the way up gaining 1000 meters of altitude!

Mood is still high, as we reach valley
 after longer than expected!

At first, the valley is wider, perhaps 60 meters. There are many beautiful desert bushes and trees, which get bigger the further up we go and the more narrow passage. We see hyena droppings and we pass two skeletons of Kudu. 

Quivertree, Mt Losberg

On the way, view back over
Namibrand Nature Reserve,
Tents not visible anymore

Jacks says that they released a large group of Kudu a few years ago, and that they died in the drought. It seems that the last abode of at least 2 of them was this valley. We touch nothing, all nature must remain untouched in this beautiful area nature reserve.

Kudu remains, valley Mt Losberg

The further we get up into the rift valley, the more difficult the route becomes. There are now very large boulders to be passed. Most times, we get around by climbing up the side and around tricky passages. All the while concentrating on not stepping on, or grabbing, snakes/scorpions. 

Break Mt Losberg, boulders to navigate

Break Mt Losberg, what a view, Namib Desert

We see a more than 2-meter-long Cape Cobra skin and, in this way, we are reminded of the seriousness of looking out for yourself. Cape Cobras can transmit a very powerful and fast acting neurotoxic venom. Any bite from a Cape cobra is life-threatening and needs urgent medical care - not really possible in this setting... But just a skin (where is the host?)

Cape Cobra skin, 

Approx. in the middle of the valley, there are particularly beautiful "pools", which are filled with water the few times it rains. There are also areas where flowing water over millennia has ground the rock completely smooth, and some exciting overhangs. You don't want to get caught here in a big downpour! I'm thinking looking at the pools, but with 100mm of rain a year, it's not very likely either, I thought.

Major stones, Mt Losberg

Major stones, Mt Losberg ?!

We continue towards the top of the pass; it keeps looking like it's just over the next rise in the valley, but each time, a new obstacle appears. 

At one point we are very high up on the right side of the valley navigating some very large pieces of rock, approx. the size of caravans which have been thrown pile by pile at the bottom of the valley. I'm relieved (and out of breath) as we get past this stretch.

In the end, it once again looks like the top is near - after about 3-4 hours of trekking/climbing. This time it is good enough. Jack's weaning in advance. I follow - eventually running. Adrian takes care of documenting everything with photos and video:

It is amazing to stand in the mountain pass on Mt. Losberg and have unobstructed views of the Namibrand Nature Reserve in the Namib desert. Inside the pass, we have a clear view to the west towards Wolwedans Dune Camp and further approx. 200 km desert to the Skeleton Coast, where we were once in big trouble on a previous trip! But that is another story link). Now on the top, we also have a clear view to the east and another unexplored rift valley. Next time, the challenge must be to continue down through the other unexplored rift valley, but this time we choose the same route back.

Mountain pass Losberg, unobstructed views
Namibrand Nature Reserve in the Namib desert

At the top of the pass, we make a stone mile and stone fairy circle as a mark. Only second tourist to be in this place. Likely very few humans in total.

At the top of the pass Mt. Losberg,
we make a stone mile

With Africa on the top!

And the author

In theory, we can continue for another 1-2 hours to the highest point further south, but it seems too dangerous and unnecessary. There is still a long way to go, and it is often more difficult to go down, as you do not have the same overview of the terrain as up. In addition, tired muscles and mind.

Indeed, it turns out to be a very long and difficult trek back down. This time, we try to stay more at the bottom of the valley so as not to end up high up on one side like the last time, but really this means that very large rocks have to be passed often with a drop of several metres. By now, I have thorns and scratches everywhere from vegetation that we have to pass while we check for "creeps".

Mt Losberg, vegetation

Then suddenly, the unthinkable happens; it starts to rain! A miracle in the Namib Desert - but not for us halfway down the rift valley - at least halfway down. Now, all stones will now be smoother, and if possible, we have to be even more careful! Lunch is eaten fast before we get to wet, at the same time as I put on my windbreaker. Who would have guessed that it would be needed!!

Raining! Mt Losberg

The long trip down continues. At one point I have a large insect right in front of my face - it looks like something straight out of Netflix's "Black Mirror". I ask Jacks: "What's that" pointing at the strange insekt. "Ohhh" he replies fast and adds "get away - get away". I hurry away. Now three meters from me under a large rock hangs a nest for wasps surrounded by giant wasps! Jacks and Adrian explain that they can be very aggressive. If one attacks, everyone follows and sticking many times. It is a reminder that you are very far from help if something goes wrong. 

Wasps! Mt Losberg

Wasps! Mt Losberg

The rest of the trip proceeds without further "exciting episodes" (but many bones from animals), and reaching the foot of the valley, once again we begin on what seems to be an endless walk through the melon-sized rocks. 

Now we have no more water, seven hours have passed. Seven hours three people equals (see above) 10.5 L i.e., double our ration. Luckily in that context it was cloudy and raining – a rare occurrence in the Namib Desert. The day before it was 33C and sunshine from a cloudless sky when we went on a full-day trip to the north-east corner of the national park (see link)

Adrian, (did not push, just for picture)
Only leave footprints!

Back in home away from home in the Wolwedans Dune Lodge (link to Wolwedans blog), I look back at a fantastic adventure - one of many - I will remember for the rest of my life. An experience worth the whole stay at this expensive place (even though we opted for a tent without butler ;-)

Note: This was not an excursion offered by Wolwedans, but an activity based on my own initiative and previous experience. It was possible thanks to the two amazing guides from Wolwedans, Jacks and Adrian (the latter carried my backpack most of the way, my excuse, they were both about half my age!)

In Danish: 

Til toppen af - via sprækkedal - Mt Losberg (1939m) 

Når man nyder den smukke udsigt fra Wolwedans Dune Camp mod øst, er der et markant landmærke, der tårner sig op på den anden side af klitter og slette; ”Mt Losberg”. Det er det næsthøjeste bjerg i Nationalparken. Jeg spørger vores guide Jacks ”har du nogensinde været oppe på toppen af bjerget”? Jacks svarer, ”jeg har været der en gang med et par fra Schweitz. Vi prøvede først fra nord, men måtte give op efter 4 timer, hvor vi kun var nået halvvejs. Så prøvede vi via sprækkedalen midt på bjerget, og det lykkedes”. Jacks tilføjer, ”jeg har ikke hørt om andre turister på Wolwedans, der har besteget bjerget, det er næste 2000 meter og meget varmt i ørkenen”.

Jeg elsker en udfordring! Men jeg er også klar over, at det er en stor opgave uden nogen form for hjælp i nærheden, hvis man bliver utilpas eller kommer ud for et uheld. Der er ingen rute op og mange store boulders, som skal passeres. Hertil er sprækkedalen ”leopard territorie”, selv om de undgår mennesker, for ikke at tale om slanger og skorpioner, som er mere aktive her i foråret. Det gælder om at være forsigtig og se sig grundigt for.

Jeg nævner for ejeren af Wolwedans, Stefan, at jeg overvejer at bestige Mt Losberg. Han svarer ”pas på, det er en stor udfordring, det skulle nødigt udvikle sig til en rescue mission!” Hvis jeg mener det seriøst, så vil han foreslå, at vi tager den nye ”intern” Adrian fra Sydafrika med, så vi er 3 personer. Det skulle vise sig at være en god ide.

Kl. 6 om morgenen tager vi landroveren til den lille airstrip i ørkenen, hvor de rigeste gæster ankommer i privatfly. Den ligger for foden af Mt. Losberg. Vi har ca. 6 liter vand med + frokostpakker. Man anbefaler normalt 500 ml vand pr. person pr. time. Så vi har, hvad der svarer til 4 timers vand pr. person!

Det viser sig hurtigt, at den stenslette der skal passeres før man når indgangen til sprækkedalen er meget besværlig. Der er fuld af melonstore sten, som ligger løst. Det er koncentreret gang, hvor man hele tiden ser ned.

Humøret er stadig højt, da vi når foden af sprækkedalen efter noget længere tid end beregnet! Man kan ikke se hele ruten op, da sprækkedalen snor sig. Men vi fornemmer allerede nu, at der ikke er en sti nogen steder, men derimod store sten som skal passeres på vejen op. Alt i alt vinder vi 1000 højdemeter på turen.

I starten er sprækkedalen bred i det. Der er mange flotte ørkenbuske og -træer, som bliver større jo længere vi kommer op. Vi ser hyæne droppings, og vi passerer 2 skeletter af Kudu. Jacks fortæller, at man satte en større gruppe Kudu ud for nogle år siden, man at de døde i tørken. Det ser ud til at det sidste opholdssted for mindst 2 af dem var denne dal. Vi rører intet, alt natur skal forblive urørt i dette smukke område.

Jo længere vi kommer op i sprækkedalen, desto vanskeligere bliver ruten. Der er nu meget store boulders der skal passeres. De fleste gange kommer vi omkring, ved at klatre op på siden og rundt om vanskelige passager. Hele tiden koncentreret om ikke at træde på, eller gribe i, slanger. Vi ser et mere end 2 meter langt Cape Cobra skind og bliver på denne måde mindet om alvoren i at se sig for. 

Ca. midt oppe i dalen er der særlig flotte pools, som fyldes med vand de få gange, det regner. Der er også områder, hvor strømmende vand gennem årtusinder har slebet klippen helt glat, og nogle spændende overhæng. Man har ikke lyst til at blive fanget her i et stort regnskyl! Med 100 mm regn om året er det heller ikke særlig sandsynligt (troede vi). Vi fortsætter mod toppen af passet, det ser hele tiden ud til, at den er lige over den næste forhøjning i dalen. Hver gang åbner der sig en ny forhindring. På et tidspunkt er vi meget højt oppe på højre side af dalen for at passere nogle meget store klippestykker, ca. på størrelse med campingvogne som er smidt hulter til bulter i bunden af dalen. Jeg er lettet (og meget forpustet), da vi kommer forbi dette stykke.

Til sidt ser det endnu engang ud til at toppen er nær – efter ca 3-4 timers klatren. Denne gang er den god nok. Jacks spæner i forvejen. Jeg følger efter – til sidst i løb. Adrian sørger hele vejen for at dokumentere med fotos og video. 

Det er fantastisk at stå i passet på Mt. Losberg og have fri udsigt over Namibrand Nature Reserve i Namib ørkenen. I passet har vi fri udsigt til vest, hvor der er ca. 200 km ørken til Skeleton Coast (hvor vi var i store problemer på en tidligere tur link). Og vi har fri udsigt til øst og en anden uudforsket sprækkedal. Næste gang må udfordringen være at fortsætte ned gennem den anden uudforskede sprækkedal, men denne gang vælger vi samme vej tilbage. 

I toppen af passet laver vi en stenmile og sten Fairy Circle som markering af at være – nummer 2 – på dette sted.

Man kan fortsætte 2 timer til det højeste punkt, men det forekommer for farligt og unødvendigt. Der er stadig lang vej tilbage, og ofte er det sværere at gå ned, da man ikke har samme overblik over terræn som op. Hertil trætte muskler og krop.

Det viser sig ganske rigtigt at være en meget lang og vanskelig vej ned igen. Vi forsøger at holde os mere i bunden af dalen for ikke at ende højt oppe på den ene side som sidst, men ganske rigtigt betyder det, at meget store sten skal passeres med flere meters fald ned. Jeg har efterhånden torne og ridser overalt fra bevoksning, som vi må passere, mens vi tjekker for ”kryb”. 

Så sker det utænkelige, det begynder at regne. Et mirakel i Namibørkenen – men ikke for os halvvejs nede i sprækkedalen. Alle sten bliver nu mere glatte, og man skal om muligt være endnu mere omhyggelig! Frokost indtages samtidig med at jeg tager vindjakke på. Hvem havde gættet, der skulle blive brug for den!!

Den lange tur ned fortsætter. På et tidspunkt har jeg et stort insekt lige ud for mit ansigt – det ligner noget taget direkte ud af Netflix ”Black Mirror”. Jeg spørger Jacks: ”Hvad er det og peger”. ”Ohhh” svarer han ”get away – get away”. Jeg skynder mig væk. 3 meter fra mig under en stor klippe hænger et hvepsebo omgivet at giganthvepse! Jacks og Adrian forklarer, at de kan være meget aggressive. Hvis en angriber følger alle, og de bliver ved med at stikke mange gange. Det er en påmindelse om, at man er meget langt fra hjælp, hvis noget går galt. 

Resten af turen forløber uden yderligere ”spændende episoder”, og for foden af dalen begynder, hvad der syntes som en uendelig vandring gennem de melonstore sten. Vi har ikke mere vand nu, der er gået 7 timer. Syv timer 3 personer = 10,5 L dvs. det dobbelte af vores ration. Heldigt det var skyet og regn – en sjælden begivenhed i Namibørkenen. Dagen før var det 33C og solskin fra skyfri himmel, da vi var på heldagstur til det nordøstlige hjørne af nationalparken (link)

Hjemme i Wolwedans Dune Lodge igen efter en fantastisk oplevelse, som jeg vil huske resten af livet. Den var i sig selv hele opholdet værd (dette temmelig dyre sted selv om vi valgte et telt uden butler ;-)   

Bemærk: Dette var ikke en udflugt der tilbydes fra Wolwedans, men baseret på mit eget initiativ (og ansvar). Det var kun muligt (og nogenlunde forsvarligt) takket være de 2 guides fra Wolwedans, Jacks og Adrian (sidstnævnte bar min rygsæk det meste af vejen – men min undskyldning er at de begge er ca. halvt så gamle som mig!)