Wednesday 7 August 2024

Namibia 2024 itinerary "Deserts and wilderness"

Proverb 

"Camp sites fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember sometimes a particular bend of your wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as if it were a significant landmark in your life"

 Karen Blixen (Isak Dinesen) in "Out of Africa", 1937


Me and my wifes campsite, Trekking on our own in
Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997. 


Daughter, son and wife at campsite,
Little Hunter´s Rest, Tiras Mountains,
Namibia, 2009.

Planning the trip is half the pleasure!

Over the years, it has become a beloved hobby to plan self-drive trips in Africa and write this travel blog. When I plan the trips, I am already in Africa! And I relive our many previous adventures! Such a joy.

Namibia 2024, planning phase
at home in Copenhagen

In the planning phase, I love to explore maps, guidebooks, the internet, FB travel groups, and TripAdvisor. Until recently, I used ExpertAfrica.com in the UK for bookings and car hire (and once used SafariDrive.com). These UK-based travel agents, especially ExpertAfrica, are perfect if you can accept their fine trip suggestions with just a few individual modifications. 

However, now that it’s our 6th trip to this part of Africa, and we have visited many places and have our own opinions on where to stay and go, I found it more useful to book the Toyota Land Cruiser directly through Bushlore.com and use their bookings department in Johannesburg for securing campsites, lodges, etc., based on our own itinerary. In addition, I booked directly on my own where there was a good online booking system such as "Nightsbridge." This has worked very well—the final test will, of course, be when we arrive in Windhoek in September!

Why this "deserts and wilderness route"? 

This time, the focus is camping in deserts and wilderness, venturing from southeast to northwest! It's an unusual route reflecting that it’s our 6th trip to Namibia and the fact that we love remote desert landscapes! Also, the route reflects that we have to meet our Danish friends at Bagatelle Guest Farm south of Windhoek 14 days after our own arrival. This will be their first trip to Africa! Furthermore, we prebooked the Nossob 4x4 Wilderness Trail one year in advance (it gets sold out immediately after bookings opens) as it has been a long dream of mine to visit Kgalagadi again after a fantastic experience with my son years ago (Link to father son trip) and to show my wife this extraordinary national park the size of Denmark. Going south from Windhoek and then north again towards Windhoek allows us to try some special tracks such as D1033 and perhaps D1022! You can read our report from these tracks later on this blog!

Our general travel itinerary 2024:

  • Towards Kalahari Desert / Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park on: "4WD adventure"
  • Camping in NamibRand Nature Reserve: "Desert and stargazing"
  • Through Namib-Naukluft National Park to Swakopmund: "two mountain passes and the coast"
  • Through Erongo and Kunene regions & exploring Etendeka Plateau: "Volcanic rocks & flat-topped mountains"
  • Remote Kunene/Kaokoland wilderness days: "Explooring Africa´s last wilderness"
  • Along Cunene River on the Angolan border: "The green oasis"
  • Etosha National Park and Erongo Mountains luxury finish: "The big five & gastronomy"


Specific stops and links to homepages (6 weeks trip):


Route on TripAdvisor

  1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, campsite, 2 nights Bagatelle
  2. Kalahari Game Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Kalahari GL
  3. Mata-Mata Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  4. Kalahari Tented Camp, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  5. Nossob Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, camping, 3 nights Nossob 4x4-trail
  7. Twee Rivieren Restcamp, camping, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  8. Kalahari Game Lodge, 1 night Kalahari GL
  9.  Bagatelle Kalahari Botique Farmhouse, 1 night (join friends from DK) Bagatelle Farmhouse
  10. Namib Rand Family Hideout, campsite, 3 nights Family hideout camping
  11. Desert Breeze Lodge, villa, 3 nights Desert Breeze
  12. Madisa Camp, campsite, 1 night Madisa Camp
  13.  Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, open air, 2 nights Etendeka Trail
  14.  Etendeka Mountain Camp, main camp, 1 night Etendeka Main Camp
  15. Khowarib Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Khowarib Lodge Campsite
  16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp, campsite, 2 nights Puros Bush Lodge
  17. Etambura Camp, 3 nights Etaambura Camp
  18. Opuwo Country Lodge, 1 night Opuwo Lodge
  19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp, campsite, 2 nights Omarunga EP Camp
  20. Camp Cornie, campsite, 2 nights Camp Cornie
  21. Dolomite Camp, 2 nights Etosha Dolomite Camp
  22. Omurenga Lodge, 2 nights Omurenga
  23. River Crossing Lodge, 1 night Rivercrossing


Some potential activities the different places:

In the following, some of the special activities we plan to do some of the different places besides the usual very nice scenic- and game drives and sundowners, the number refers to the list above.

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: a) View the spectacular southern hemisphere sky from observatory with a state-of-the-art computer-controlled telescope, b) Cheetah Excursion to get up close and personal with the fastest land animal on Earth.

Sundowner drive, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2009

2. Kalahari Game Lodge: Try their 4×4 self-drive trail in Kalahari on a 3500ha portion of the lodge.

6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail: Challenging 4x4 driving on a small track through the Kalahari dunes in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks, covering a total distance of 214km, sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights. See my specific posts about the trail and our experiences during the trip later. 

Video when my son and I drove from Gharagab Wilderness camp on the exit track:



9. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: See 1. above.

10. Namib Rand Family Hideout: a) Experience the NamibRand Nature Reserve characterized by expansive plains, towering mountain ranges, and iconic red sand dunes sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights and stargazing, b) Visits Duwisib Castle 80 km away, c) Visit Sossusvlei, d) Try 4WD track. See my specific posts about NamibRand and our experiences during the trip later.

11. Desert Breeze Lodge / Swakopmund: a)  Sandwich Harbour 4x4 drive, see later post, b) Walwis Bay Catamaran Tour, c) The Tug (restaurant), d) Ocean Cellar (restaurant), e) Exploore Swakop.


12. Madisa Camp: Track elephants.

Sundowner near Madisa Camp,
Namibia, 2012

13. Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail: See our blog from previous visit Trail report

Etendeka Mountain Camp, "tents" in distance,
Namibia, 2019

14. Etendeka Mountain Camp: Stargazing through the telescope.

 Etendeka Mountain Camp,
Namibia, 2009

15. Khowarib Lodge: a) Drive to Ongongo Hot Spring for swim, b) Visit Sesfontein. See our blog from previous visit Report Khowarib  

Me & son, Ongongo Hot Spring,
Namibia, 2012


16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp: a) Visiting Himba´s, see our blog from previous visit Puros Himba visit, b) Drive along Hoarusip River to Puros Canyon, see our blog from previous visit including elephant encounter(!) Report from Puros Canyon 

View point near Puros.
Me checking the road ahead of us! 
Namibia, 2012 

17. Etambura Camp: a) Enjoy this very special place, read about our previous visit Etaambura report, b) Visit Himba´s Report previous Himba visit, c) Extreeme 4WD driving to Marienfluss, read report from previous trip Report Marienfluss Drive

Video from the road from Puros to Etambura, Namibia, 2012: 


18. Opuwo Country Lodge: buy new supplies form trip to north.

19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp: a) Visit Epupa Falls, read our previous report Epupa Flls Oasis, b) Go on a rafting trip, read our previous report Riverrafting Kunene

Riverrafting Cunene River,
Namibia, 2019

20. Camp Cornie: a) Canoeing the Kunene, b) Fishing the Kunene.

21. Dolomite Camp:  Night drive.

Our cabin, Dolomite Camp,
Etosha, Namibia, 2012

22. Omurenga Lodge: Visit Kristall Kellerei, the oldest wine farm in Namibia Kristall Kellerei




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