A journey through our accommodations so far in Kgalagadi & Namibia

One of the most fantastic locations, on the top of a mountain,
Kaokoland, Namibia, 2024.

We spent a lot of time in our rooftop tent on the Land Cruiser,
Here at Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa, 2024.

Bagatelle Kalahari Lodge Campsite (no. 1)

Sunset campsite 1, Bagatelle Kalahari Lodge, Namibia, 2024.

Located on the edge of the Kalahari Desert, this campsite offers excellent facilities. There’s a covered area where you can set up your rooftop tent, along with a large covered terrace with a concrete deck, access to an outdoor wash/kitchen area, and a water hose for refilling your vehicle’s water tank (if you have one). The water for showers is heated by solar energy, and there’s both a shower and toilet in a neat little indoor building with a large table for placing your luggage. Everything was very clean, tidy, and well-maintained. Camping guests have free access to the Bagatelle Kalahari Lodge, where they can use the pool, bar, and restaurant. We dined at the restaurant one evening and used the pool – the service was excellent. A kudu even visited us by the pool! You can also sign up for activities like stargazing through a telescope and various drives.

We dined at the restaurant one evening!

We stargazed through a telescope and 
took this picture of the moon.

On the downside, our campsite (and most others) wasn’t very private. Other campers drive by on a road below your site, and you can see the main road leading to and from the lodge. But overall, it’s a lovely place to camp if you’re traveling north or south and need to break up your journey while still enjoying good facilities.

Kalahari Game Lodge Campsite

The last campsite. Namibia, 2024.

We stayed here twice, for a total of 3 nights. On the first two nights, en route to Kgalagadi, we had the last campsite, which was very private and located directly by the dried-up riverbed. On the last night, we stayed at the second-to-last site, which was also excellent. Kalahari Game Lodge Campsite was one of our favorite places, especially due to its incredibly beautiful location by the dried-up riverbed, offering lovely shade from large acacia trees. There’s a large concrete deck under a covered area, and a shower and toilet screened from the deck. There’s lighting powered by solar cells, but no charging facilities. Water is heated by a donkey boiler. While we were there, we tried the excellent 4x4 trail (link report) and dined at the very small restaurant (which must be booked in advance) – simple but great. The lodge had free, decent (but somewhat slow) internet. We’d happily stay here again. The manager was very friendly and accommodating.

Mata Mata Campsite

Sunset Mata Mata Campsite

Extremely clean and well-maintained communal facilities, with the ablution block particularly spotless and well-kept. The shop was surprisingly well-stocked, and you could buy internet access for both Mata Mata and the nearby Kalahari Tented Camp. The internet worked fine for basic tasks but not for streaming. We ordered delicious freshly baked rolls and bread from the shop, which were ready for pickup that evening (highly recommended). The border crossing from Namibia to South Africa was completely smooth, with minimal wait time. The officials were friendly and professional. Overall, Mata Mata was a great experience, and we’d gladly return.

Kalahari Tented Camp

An extraordinary experience and location! It was unique to sit on our own terrace in the middle of the national park, overlooking the dried-up riverbed with wildlife and a magnificent sunset. The manager was extremely helpful. We had a lovely cabin (wilderness camp) with a bathroom and toilet, plus a well-equipped kitchen area with all necessary facilities, including a gas stove and fridge, as well as all kitchen utensils. You bring your own food to cook in the kitchen. There was also a small swimming pool, which we didn’t use this time.

Sunset from our terrasse at Kalahari Tented Camp,
South Africa, 2024.

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail

Navigating Big Bertha sanddune,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024

An exceptional trip with 3 nights camping in the wilderness at different “campsites” in the open nature of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park. You can read much more about our experience here, where I describe the journey day by day (link report), and here, where I provide more general information about the trip (link info). Highly reccommended experience!

Twee Rivieren Rest Camp Campsite

Spotted hyena with a cub near,
near Twee Rivieren Camp,
South Africa, 2024. 

This was one of the more “boring” places. You immediately get the sense that it’s a transit point for the whole Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park. However, the ablution block was spotless, and we had a decent meal at the simple on-site restaurant. The shop had a smaller selection than Mata Mata, and the service wasn’t quite as friendly as what we experienced at Mata Mata. The same goes for the gas station. The reception staff, where you check in, were very friendly and efficient. Overall, it was an okay experience, but there’s room for improvement in the service department.

Bagatelle Game Ranch

stunning infinity pool with views
 of a large pan and a waterhole,
Namibia, 2024

A very luxurious new place, set apart but connected to Bagatelle Kalahari Lodge. The place feels new everywhere, though maybe not as personal. The rooms, however, are lavish, with all facilities and exceptional quality throughout. We had an amazing meal in the restaurant, overlooking the pool, with very friendly service. There’s a stunning infinity pool with views of a large pan and a waterhole. Bagatelle Game Ranch is a great place near Windhoek for either the first or last stop on a tour around Namibia, just before or after Windhoek.

NamibRand Family Hideout Campsite (Venus)

NamibRand, Namibia, 2024.

Venus Campsite facilities,
NamibRand, Namibia, 2024.

One of the absolute camping highlights of the trip and, in general, one of the highlights of our six trips to Namibia. You can read our travel report with photos here (link report).

Desert Breeze Lodge Villa

The Villa, Desert Breeze, Namibia, 2024.

A fantastic, large 3-bedroom villa with its own fireplace, a spacious living room, and two bathrooms. It also had a large terrace with views of the Swakop River and an outdoor kitchen on the other side of the villa. There was also a private minibar. The staff were incredibly friendly and service-minded, helping with everything – including when our transfer to the catamaran tour didn’t show up. They resolved it with a few phone calls. We highly recommend this place, and the villa is ideal for a large family or 2-3 couples traveling together (though there are "only" two bathrooms).

Blog author, Sandwich Harbour,
Namibia, 2024.

In Swakop, we took a lovely, highly recommended tour to Sandwich Harbour, which you can read all about here (link report), and had an amazing catamaran tour! Sailing in Walvis Bay was surprisingly exciting. 

The Tug from the old pier,
Swakopmund, Namibia, 2024.

We enjoyed a great seafood dinner at the historic The Tug and another wonderful seafood meal at the modern Ocean Cellar. We also had sushi at Andy’s(?) Restaurant. All three were fantastic in their own way. At The Tug, we sat with white tablecloths in the top room with a 360-degree view. As we had mentioned we were celebrating our 30th wedding anniversary, we received exceptional service. Ocean Cellar was much more modern in style, with fantastic seafood and a lovely view of the bay, also with excellent service. Swakop is the place for dining out!

Madisa Campsite

Sunset campsite 1, Madisa Camp,
Namibia, 2024.

An incredible location surrounded by impressive rock formations, right by a dry riverbed. We had campsite 1, which felt like the best spot (at least it felt that way to us). There was a massive shade tree where we ate dinner, which we cooked on the braai. The toilet and shower were in a tree tower (for the sake of the elephants), and there was a donkey boiler for hot water. At sunset, we climbed the nearby rocks and enjoyed the sunset over the cliffs, which was a great experience. However, the road from Uis to Madisa was in exceptionally poor condition with massive corrugation – some of the worst we’ve experienced in Namibia to date on our six trips, but that’s another story.

Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Wife and friends,
Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

One of the highlights of the entire trip. You can read our travel report here (link report).

Khowarib Lodge Campsite

Campsites were in serious need
of maintenance, Khowarib,
Namibia, 2024.

All in all, a lovely place where we had the Riverside Campsite 7. The campsites themselves were in serious need of maintenance. The walls had partially collapsed, and some campsites had fallen partially into the river. Trash bins weren’t emptied automatically, and the ash from fire pits wasn’t removed. There was litter in the ravine, likely blown down from overflowing trash bins at the campsites, either knocked over by the wind or animals. The ablution block was okay with hot water but not of the highest standard. The pool area was better maintained, and the pool was great in the heat. The "restaurant" at the campsite was surprisingly well-stocked with a very skilled chef and an extremely friendly waiter/receptionist. They were exceptionally accommodating. This made up for many of the other shortcomings at the place. On the other hand, we also ate at the lodge and found the meal quite underwhelming. 

One morning, we took a nice 1-hour walk
up the ravine along the riverbank,
Namibia, 2024.

One morning, we took a 1-hour walk up the ravine along the riverbank. It was a fantastic experience and highly recommended. Be sure to watch your step for snakes and scorpions. We saw a snake skin on the path. On the way back, we followed the car track, which was a quicker return.

Ogongo Hot Springs
was a disappointment, see below.
Namibia, 2024

We also took a trip to the Ogongo Hot Springs, which was a major disappointment. The campsite there wasn’t well-maintained, and the water was filthy, with visible animal droppings. Not very pleasant when swimming. Avoid submerging your head and consider whether it’s worth the trip. The guard at the site wasn’t very welcoming. This was our second visit (the first being in 2009), and it’s clearly deteriorated since then. We won’t be returning.

Puros Bush Lodge Campsite (no. 6)

Last campsite with fantastic location,
Puros, Namibia, 2024.

The kitchen area was a "cave"
under a huge tree, Namibia 2024.

We got the last campsite, which was very secluded and furthest from the lodge. The location was fantastic, with large trees and small sand dunes scattered around. The kitchen area was a "cave" under a huge tree, where you could sit "sheltered", and the same applied to the shower and toilet, which were like two separate caves among the branches. This meant there was free access for critters, but that’s part of the charm and didn’t bother us. You just need to be careful, especially after dark. On the second day (we stayed for two nights), the water supply failed, and it never came back. This was a downside to an otherwise perfect experience but didn’t ruin the overall positive impression.

The roads in Puros didn’t match up well with Tracks4Africa, and there was very deep powder sand in several areas, which you have to pass through in the riverbed. We needed traction control several times and almost got stuck. This is not a place for 2WD!

We tokk an extreeme route from Khowarib to Puros, the Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail. Read our report about this trail here (link)

Etaambura Camp

You can also read our more comprehensive travel report from Etaambura Camp and see more pictures here at this link (link)

Situated on top of a mountain in the very remote Kaokoland
with views of "sacred mountains", Etambura Camp,
Namibia, 2024.

Location, location, location! Situated on top of a mountain in the very remote Kaokoland with views of "sacred mountains". The communal building was unique, and each small tent cabin had equally breathtaking views. You feel close to heaven – but also very far from civilization. On the approximately 4-hour drive from Puros, we didn’t encounter a single oncoming car (!), but we passed through rocky desert, mountains, and sand areas. At one point near Puros, we were 7 km off the track shown on Tracks4Africa, following an unmarked trail, though it was going in the right direction. Fortunately, we were in two Land Cruisers, fully equipped, including a satellite phone, but there were still some nervous moments!

The drive up to Etambura is quite extreme!
Namibia, 2024.

The drive up to Etambura, perched on an isolated mountaintop, is quite extreme! 4L and traction control with a sheer drop on the right side of the track. In some places, the road was almost completely eroded away on the right side. It didn’t help that the handbrake on our Bushlore Land Cruiser was practically useless, so the plan in case of an unexpected stop was to use the footbrake and put four large stones under the tires. Fortunately, we didn’t need to, though we were generally a bit disappointed with the quality of our Bushlore Land Cruisers, which felt worn out. After a few trips up and down the mountain over the next few days, we gained more confidence (and even made it to 2nd gear!).

Nearby marble quarry, Namibia, 2024.

We took a trip to the nearby marble quarry and walked around. It was a nice little 2-hour excursion, and we also took a very long and extreme round trip to "red drum" and "blue drum". It became the wildest 4WD experience we’ve had to date, which I’ll write about separately.

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail day by day experiences!

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa 2024.

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa, 2024.

Before departure

After a delightful drive from Kalahari Tented Camp, which is located just within the Mata Mata border crossing from Namibia to South Africa in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, we drive via Upper Dune Road to Nossob Rest Camp, where we are to meet the other participants for the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail. Together, we will embark on four days (three nights) of challenging 4x4 driving along a narrow track through the Kalahari dunes, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks. We will cover a total distance of 214km, with daily travel spanning approximately 50km to 60km.

I wonder who the other participants are? You get close to one another on such a trip, where you spend all your time together without any "escape routes" in the middle of the desert. However, based on our experience from many previous trips to Africa, it’s usually other like-minded and interesting people, who, like us, enjoy nature and an exciting challenge. It’s not exactly the charter tourist segment that joins this kind of expedition.

At the reception in Nossob Rest Camp, we are assigned our campsite, where participants gather the day before departure. Arriving at the campsite, we immediately meet the first couple from South Africa, among others who will be joining the tour. They come over right away, warmly welcoming us and asking if we wouldn’t bring our chairs and sit with them after we’ve set up the rooftop tent. It quickly turns out that they are incredibly nice people, and we end up having a great time together throughout the expedition.

Arrival at Nossob Rest Camp before Nossob 4x4
Eco Trail, my wife opens the gate!
South Africa, 2024.

Three more vehicles from South Africa join us shortly after. They are also very friendly people, part of a larger family group who are on the trip together – a really great idea.

In the evening, just before sunset, our guide from SANParks (South African National Parks), Thys Burger, stops by to say a quick hello. He informs us that we should be ready for a briefing and departure the next morning at 8:30 AM.

Ready for morning briefing before our 4 days
 / 3 nights adventure at Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2014.

The morning briefing proves to be a regular start to the day's program. Thys informs us about the route and safety. Always in a friendly and welcoming tone, engaging everyone, but leaving no doubt that he is in charge of the trip. For instance, the rules are: leave only footprints, always stay on the track, no music in the camp, remember sturdy shoes due to snakes and scorpions, etc. When we arrive at a camp or get out of the vehicles, the rule is that Thys always checks the area for dangers before we all step out. This is particularly about cats (hyenas, leopards, and lions). Thys always carries a rifle, and on previous expeditions, there have been large cats in the camps. After dark, if anyone needs to go to the long-drop toilet, they must wake Thys. No one walks alone in the dark. After dark, you must be especially cautious. For example, there are around 470 lions in Kgalagadi(!)

Lion on our way from Kalahari
Tented Camp to Nossob rest Camp
to join Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024. 

Lastly, we are all given radios so we can communicate while driving. Every day, the cars switch positions, with the front vehicle moving to the back. This way, everyone gets to drive both at the front and back. In practice, the order doesn’t matter much. Everyone can see everything – and there is plenty of intense 4x4 driving!

All got radios for communication,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024.

Day one / Swartbas Camp

Source: Tracks4Africa

1. day, on the way to Swartbas Camp,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024

From Nossob Rest Camp, we drive approximately 70 km north along the dry riverbed, where we catch the beginning of the trail. In odd-numbered months, the route is driven from north to south, while in even-numbered months, it's the opposite. As soon as we turn onto the trail and head south, we sense that we are now driving in a place where no one else will pass for the next 214 km! The desert views and dunes are breathtaking in every direction. Along the way, we make "discussion stops" where Thys tells us about the nature and wildlife of the Kalahari Desert. It’s incredibly fascinating to hear his stories, which reflect his deep knowledge and experience.

Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, 1st day driving

After several hours of driving, we reach the first camp, Swartbas, which is sheltered by low dunes and has lovely shade trees. Everyone chooses a spot to park and set up their tents, but only on the condition that Thys can see your camp from his own tent. Read this interesting previous post about a leopard entering a rooftop tent (link post)!!

In the center, there are shade trees and a concrete slab designed for a braai (grill). Everyone grills in the same spot, and it creates a cozy atmosphere.

Our camp at Swartbas

About 50 meters away, there's an enclosure with a long-drop toilet, offering a free view of the bushes and desert while you do your business. There’s also an enclosure for a bucket shower. You heat up some water in a black bag using solar energy if you want a shower. The bag is then hung on a hook—again, with a clear view. You’re not allowed to shower after dark, for safety reasons due to the big cats. No one wants to break this rule. Flashlights scan the dark surroundings, searching for eyes in the night.

Swartbas long drop toilet with a view,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024.

We've parked our Land Cruiser a bit off to the side of the camp (but still within Thys's line of sight). In the evening, the moon rises before the sun sets, and there's the most spectacular sunset. Everyone gathers around the fire, grilling meat and vegetables, sharing stories from the day. We exchange experiences from the Kalahari Desert, South America, and Denmark. It’s incredibly exciting to gain insight into others' lifestyles in this way, intensified by the desert night and its sounds. Tonight, we don’t hear any dangerous animals and sleep peacefully.

Our Land Cruiser a bit off to the side of the Swartbas Camp,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa, 2024.

Everyone gathers around the fire,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024

Day two / Rosyntjiebos Camp

Dark green spot. Source: Tracks4Africa

The next day, we pass by a large "pan," a depression in the desert terrain where water collects the few times it rains. Here, we take a lunch break with a view, and as always, Thys keeps the rifle close at hand. Lunch breaks are yet another opportunity to exchange stories from the Kalahari and around the world.

Lunch break near large pan on the right, Kgalagadi
Transfrontier Park, Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024 

Big Bertha Dune 

After lunch, we face the highest dune on the entire trip, called "Big Bertha." It’s a challenge that everyone who has driven the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail knows. Thys explains, before we tackle the towering dune, we need a good run-up with the car, preferably over 60 km/h, before starting the ascent in the soft sand!

The others are waiting for the "Danish couple"
on the top of Big Bertha while I am discussing
the best strategy. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, 
South Africa 2024.

We’re driving a very heavy Toyota Land Cruiser, loaded for a six-week trip in Africa, and I must admit that I don’t want to risk taking the sharp turn just before the dune at 60 km/h – despite trying five times! Once, we stranded just five meters from the top (video below). If the car slides in the curve before the dune and hits the high sand ridge on the side of the track, there’s a high risk that it could roll over with all the luggage, including diesel, water, and supplies for six weeks. It’s an unnecessary risk to take. If it had been life or death, I could have approached the dune directly without the turn, but that would mean making new tracks in the desert, which isn’t allowed, as the rule is no new tracks. Alternatively, we could have unloaded all the luggage, tackled the dune, and then fetched the baggage on foot! Instead, we take the detour around "Big Bertha," avoiding the long, steep dune. It's all the same. Only a few light bruises to my pride, but it was the only challenge we had to bypass among the many major 4x4 off-road adventures on the trip.

Nearly reaching the top!?

After Big Bertha, we spot many interesting plants at our “discussion stops,” and hear stories about the Bushmen and hyena droppings!

Our fantastic guide! Thys Burger from
SANParks. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024.

Spotted hyenas in the camp!

Finally, we reach the second camp, "Rosyntjiebos," which is very open in the landscape so that animals can’t sneak in. Nevertheless, a previous group had a visit from four lions at once. That information made all of us extra alert in the evening. Luckily, one of the other participants on the trip declared, "We must keep Doc (my nickname) alive." I thought that was a brilliant idea ;-)  Save the doctor for last.

Rosyntjiebos Camp, Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail.
South Africa, 2024.

At 5:10 AM, we’re suddenly awakened by two spotted hyenas in our camp. I am startled awake by their loud howls, not to mention Thys’ loud shouts to scare the hyenas away. It was undeniably a rude awakening – but also exciting in its own strange way. Afterward, my wife and I fell back to sleep again – though I waited to pee until it was fully light, even though it was much needed!

Hyena tracks around our camping
 table and car in Rosyntjiebos Camp.
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa 2024.

In the morning, we find hyena tracks around our camping table and car, and the hyenas have torn apart a towel. I ask Thys what wild animal he least wants to encounter in the camp? I would have guessed leopards. But Thys' ranking is spotted hyenas, leopards, and lions. Spotted hyenas are very cunning in the way they hunt in packs. They chase in coordination from multiple directions.

 

Day three / Witgab Camp

Last dark Green spot. 

Source: Tracks4Africa

A new day full of exciting experiences on the way to Witgab Camp. Among other things, we hike to the top of a large dune, where we can overlook the most beautiful hilly desert landscape with scattered bushes and a few trees. Thys calls the view "Little Serengeti." Shortly after we continue driving, we pass a gemsbok that had been killed by two lions the week before. There is almost nothing left but the skeleton. When Thys was driving through the trail a week ago, the lions were lying in the way, blocking the road!

gemsbok that had been killed by
 two lions the week before.

The landscape gradually changes, and it is now characterized by more uneven, scattered dunes, in contrast to the long dune ridges running NNW-SSE, which can stretch up to 200 km long. The more varied dunes make for some fun 4x4 driving experiences. You need all the gears. I prefer driving in L4 but only engage the differential lock a few times. Some drive in 4H and use fewer gears.

Scattered dunes driving

When we reach Camp 3, we spot lion tracks! Lions had visited the day before. We set up our tents/vehicles in a horseshoe-shaped ring, all with a view of a waterhole.

Lion track Witgab Camp at arrival.
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail,
South Africa, 2024

Once again, there’s a long drop toilet and bucket shower, but this time the bucket shower is hidden behind a dune, so the camp isn’t visible – a bit eerie when you want a bath, in case a big cat sneaks up and no one can see it. On the other hand, the view from the shower is incredible, and just like the other showers, it’s completely open on one side.

In the evening, there’s a bit of a melancholy feeling around the campfire, as it's the last night on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail. Thys makes the most delicious bread rolls over the fire, which we enjoy with a view of the most beautiful full blood moon over the camp and desert.

Campfire Witgab Camp, 
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, 
South Africa, 2024.

Just before bedtime, we hear lions and quickly rush to pack up for the night until Thys later informs us (!) that it was just an ostrich. Sounds can be deceiving.

The trail ends about 40 kilometers north of Twee Rivieren Rest Camp. Before that, we enjoy yet another beautiful drive, with a lunch break on the edge of a dune under a giant shepherd tree, whose roots impressively reach 65 meters into the ground!

Blog author and wife under giant shepherd tree,
Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, South Africa, 2024.

The Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail fully lived up to our expectations, not least due to the pleasant and knowledgeable ranger, Thys Burger. We will never forget him and this trip and will look back on it with great joy. We hope to return again – this time with a larger family or group of friends! Highly recommended!