How to plan a trip to Namibia

Holiday style, the Namibian self-drive paradise?

View point, Puros, Kaokoland, Namibia 2012

Blog author taking a break in the middle of
the desolate Kaokoland on the way from
Orupempe  to Opuwo, Namibia, 2012

Self-drive?

In Namibia, you have it all—from budget tours to extreme luxury. However, what truly sets Namibia apart is its exceptionally good roads (tar, gravel, tracks), diverse landscapes, and relatively high level of security. This makes Namibia ideal for a self-drive road trip. You can explore the country at your own pace, go wherever you want, and encounter only a few other cars along the way. We've also done self-driving trips in other African countries (South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia), but Namibia has always been the most easygoing!

In many of the popular tourist areas, a standard 2WD car with lower ground clearance will actually suffice, saving you a lot of money on your travel budget. However, if you plan to venture into more remote areas such as Kaokoland, Kgalagadi, or Khaudum National Park, you'll need a 4WD vehicle with higher ground clearance. Additionally, it's advisable to carry a satellite phone and ideally travel with two vehicles for safety.

Travel agent or Plan the trip Yourself?

For many years, we have used Expert Africa (expertafrica.com) as our travel agent, specifically for trips to Namibia. This has worked out really well and we are happy to recommend their services. They have a lot of excellent route suggestions that you can review and, if needed, adjust with their office in the UK. However, since the UK is no longer part of the European Union, it’s advisable to check tax regulations before booking a trip through a UK-based travel agent.

Here you can see some of the trips we planned through Expert Africa:

• 2015, A father-son trip to "Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park". My 15-year-old son and I drove along two dry riverbeds in this part of the Kalahari Desert, experiencing the beautiful natural scenery that we have come to love so much: the vast open spaces, the emptiness, the silence, the clear stars, and the prominent Milky Way. Along with this, we encountered the many sounds at night—sometimes a bit too thrilling—and the diverse scents that were distinctly perceived through the tent fabric (link to trip).

My son (and I) taking a rest,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015

• 2019, Family adventure exploring desolate coastlines, desert-adapted elephants, pristine rivers, and spectacular waterfalls. Our family—father, mother, and adult daughter and son—set off on an adventure in Namibia, with a small detour into Botswana (Okavango Delta) and a final stop in Zambia (Victoria Falls). We covered an estimated 3,500 kilometers, self-driving a 4WD vehicle from Windhoek in Namibia to Livingstone in Zambia, passing through Swakopmund, Skeleton Coast, Damaraland, Kaokoland, Kunene River, Etosha National Park, Caprivi Strip, and the Okavango Delta (link to trip)

Trekking in Etendeka Mountains,
From Mountain Camp to Main Camp,
Namibia, 2019. 

• 2022, luxury trip. My wife and I traveled from one beautiful place to another, indulging in luxury as we were pampered by the staff. The most extreme location was Wolwedans Dune Camp (blog link), where some of the guests even arrived by plane—and butler service was an option! One of the days, I decided to trek to the second-highest mountain in the Namib Desert (blog link). There were many highlight, like spending some exciting days in the Mundulea Private Reserve (blog link) and walking on the Tok Tokkie Trail in the Namib desert sleeping under open sky in the dunes (blog link).

Wolwedans Dunes Lodge, dinner is ready
Namibrand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2022.

Hiring a Car?

Bushlore Camper

If you book through a travel agent, it's best to use the car hire company they partner with. Otherwise, it's a good idea to check Namibian travel groups on Facebook, such as "Travelling Namibia & Botswana," DriveNam, Camping in Namibia, and NAMIBIA - Camp and Holiday. The question "Which car hire company do you recommend?" is often asked, and from the responses, you can see that some companies are recommended more frequently than others.

This time, we chose Bushlore based on many good recommendations. After our next trip, we will provide feedback on this company.

We always choose the best insurance option. However, please be aware that in this part of Africa, even the best insurance doesn't provide the same coverage as in Europe. There are many exceptions to the rules, and the phrase 'no cover if it’s your own fault' can be interpreted very loosely. Carefully inspect the car upon delivery. Take pictures of everything and fill out the report, noting any pre-existing damage, scratches, etc.

Camping or lodges?

Our camp "Little Hunters Rest",
Tiras Mountains, Namibia, 2009.

 

In Namibia, You Can Have It All—From Budget to Luxury!

How about your own "chiller pool" in the desert?
Wolwedans Dune Lodge, Namibrand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2022.

In Namibia, you can experience everything from budget travel to luxury. The most affordable way to travel is to rent a small 2WD car and bring your own tent and camping gear from home. We did this in 2009 and had a fantastic—and relatively inexpensive—trip. This approach requires some familiarity with camping and a love for sleeping in a tent. A step up from this is staying at the many excellent budget accommodations, such as guest farms and small hotels. Some of the places we remember as truly great "value for money" include BullsPort Lodge (link blog) and Klein Aus Vista (link blog), though there are many others. In this regard, Namibia has a significant advantage over Botswana, which is considerably more expensive.

You can also travel very comfortably from one luxurious place to the next, where the staff is ready to cater to your every need. For example, take a look at our 2022 trip, which was quite upmarket (link 2022 trip).

 

SIM Card / Satellite Phone?

Breakdown Land Rover (fan belt)
 40 km from Madisa Campsite, link blog,
Namibia, 2012.

We are in serious problems at Skeleton Coast with
120 km to nearest town and no satellite phone,
link blog, Namibia, 2019.

If you travel in the regular tourist areas of Namibia, you don’t need a satellite phone but can instead purchase a local (MTC) SIM card at the airport upon arrival. You’ll need to show your passport and typically buy data packages that each lasts for a week. The staff at the MTC store will handle everything and can show you how to top up with new data packages.

If you plan to travel outside the regular tourist areas to more remote regions, it is highly recommended to rent a satellite phone. It has saved us from some very stressful situations. For example, when our car almost caught fire in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (link blog), and when all the electronics in our vehicle failed and we were stranded on the roadside south of Palmwag Lodge (link blog). We also wished we had brought a satellite phone when we were stranded on the Skeleton Coast, 120 km from the nearest town in a very remote area—probably the most extreme experience we've had to date (link blog).

You can typically rent a satellite phone from the same place where you rent your car. This year 2024, we bring a sattelite phone given the remote areas we visit.

8 km southwest of Leopard Pan,
Central Kalahari Game Reserve,
Satellite phone came in handy!
link blog, Botswana, 2012.

Remember to Bring?

Download the Tracks4Africa app and buy the Namibia
map, and you'll always know where you are
 (does not require internet).

Besides the usual items, consider bringing the following:

• You need good travel insurance: Medical treatment and hospitalization can be very expensive, and it could ruin your finances if you have to pay for an air ambulance back to, for example, Europe, on your own!
• Maps/Apps: A good physical map, such as Tracks4Africa (link), and a reliable app with offline maps, like the Tracks4Africa app. We've used it many times; it works excellently, and you always know exactly where you are. Even small trails, like those in Kaokoland, are included on the map.
• We also recommend the "iOverlander" app, where you can find campsites and much more. It works offline.
• Hiking boots: It's a good idea to bring a pair of lightweight hiking boots that cover your ankles. They help protect against sprains but also to some extent against snake and scorpion bites. 
• International driving permit: If your driver's license is not in English, it is important to bring an international driving permit (along with your regular driver's license). This way, the local police will have no excuse to issue you a fine.
• Lighting is essential: A headlamp is perfect as it keeps your hands free, and it's good to have a lamp for campsite ambiance if you're camping.
• Don't forget chargers for your devices and an adapter for the local power outlets.
• Regular batteries are easy to buy locally.
• Lighter/Matches can also be purchased easily locally.
• Prescription medicine (with your name on it).
• Medicine kit: I might be a bit biased as a doctor, but we bring antibiotics, antihistamines, anti-itch cream, anti-diarrheal pills, nasal spray, antifungal cream, blister bandages, pain relievers, and more.
• There’s usually a first aid kit in the car, but consider supplementing it with extra bandages and an elastic bandage.
• Clothesline.
• Hammock: It's really cozy to have, and there are lightweight versions that take up little space.
• Solar shower (container): Sometimes available in rental camping vehicles.
• Eco-friendly washing products (shampoo, soap) that are gentle on the environment.
• It might be nice to bring your own sleeping bag liner/extra sheets and possibly your own sleeping bags. We've used them as a supplement to what’s provided in the camper van. Alternatively, you can just buy a warm blanket upon arrival as a supplement.
• Thermal underwear (base layers) for cold evenings and nights, and possibly a pair of thermal socks (especially important in the winter, as it can get very cold at night in the Namibian desert).
• Extension cord.
• Organizer bags can be very practical.
• Pack in soft bags that can be easily stowed in the vehicle.

Reorganising our stuff at
Madisa Campsite,
Namibia, 2012.

Our Medicine kit, Madisa Campsite,
Namibia 2012.

Currency and cash?

Bring South African Rand (ZAR). They can be freely used in Namibia and are much more widely accepted in the rest of the world, for example, if you need to exchange them back. We bring about 5,000 ZAR per week that we're in Namibia (less for longer trips). Almost all places accept Visa and MasterCard without any problems, but there's always a risk of no internet connection, so having cash is essential.

What we do in practice is start paying in cash towards the end of the trip to use up the foreign currency. We withdraw the cash from FOREX in Denmark, as they will exchange it back if we keep the receipt.

Some emergency Contacts

Always update your emergency contacts before departure, below some you can consider e.g. (May 2024):

Emergency Services:

• Ambulance: 10 177 (public) or 112 (private)
• Police: 10 111

Tourist Assistance:

• Namibia Tourism Board: +264 61 290 6000

Roadside Assistance:

• Automobile Association of Namibia (AAN): +264 61 224 201

Medical Assistance:

• Windhoek Central Hospital: +264 61 203 9111
• Mediclinic Windhoek: +264 61 433 1000

Denmark Consulate in Windhoek

• Address: Eland Street 11, Finkenstein Estate, P.O.Box 24236, Windhoek, Namibia. 
• Phone: +264-85-1244219
• Fax: +264-88-619548
• Email: carsten@iway.na

Embassies and Consulates:

• United States Embassy: +264 61 295 8500
• British High Commission: +264 61 274 800
• German Embassy: +264 61 273 100
• Denmark Embassy list in Namibia link +27-12-4309340, pryamb@um.dk

Namibian Police Force (NAMPOL):

• General Enquiries: +264 61 209 4111

TAC (tourism against crime)

•  +264 81 399 7615

NB:

• Your travel insurance information and emergency number
• You bank/credit card information and emergency number

Health Precautions?

Read my blog about malaria risk in Namibia (link malaria blog)

Anopheles stephensi, female, 
Photo by Jim Gathany

The safe rooftop tent?! Lions and leopards

 Woken up by lion roars outside the tent at night!

Lion, Blog author & son, Kgalagadi 2015

 

Lion, Blog author & son, Kgalagadi 2015

In 2012, my wife and I were sleeping in a ground tent at desolate "Sunday Pan" in Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Our two children Thea and Laust were sleaping in the rooftop tent on the top of the Land Rover. Suddently, we were woken up by lion roars in the middle of the night!!

It's 4 in the morning. We've finally fallen into deep sleep after today's exertions and after lying awake listening to all the sounds around the tent. The children are sleeping soundly on the roof of the car. They talked for a long time before they fell asleep. We are completely alone in the world in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. As far out on the edge as one can get in this world. Suddenly we are wide awake!! Lion roars sound far too clear only about 200 meters west of the tent – there are many of them. We think of the huge Kalahari lions that we've just seen at the Graasslands Safari Lodge. "Did you hear that?" I ask softly. "Yes!," my wife Pia replies. There's no need to say more. We just lay completely still and try to breathe without making a sound. It's a good thing the children didn't wake up – it's a bad time to call for parents with lions outside. Minutes pass, seemingly without them getting any closer. After about an hour, I hear the lions again, now south of the tent. They're a bit further away. Glad it's the last night in the Central Kalahari. It's too extreme... 

Again in 2015, on a father-son trip to the Kalahari Desert, my son and I were woken up by lions outside the tent. This time we were in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in a wilderness camp called 'Gharagab.' We were a bit calmer this time, but it still sounds quite terrifying! You can read this story here (Lions outside the tent link) 

This time, we went for the safe rooftop tent option!?

 

Bushlore vehicle with roof top tent

This is exactely one of the reasons we decided to go for a rooftop tent for our 2024 expedition. We thought it would be more safe than the ground tent - or that was untill we read Gavin Allderman´s recent horifying experience in Kgalaghadi - the first place we head after arriving in Namibia! 

Suddently, the rooftop tent did not seem that safe anymore. 

Read his nerve-racking story!: 

"The leopard attack [in the rooftop tent]" by Gavin Allderman (source)

From FaceBook

 

We were camping at Bosobogolo camp number 2 at the beginning of March 2024. The summer had started wet and promising for this arid landscape, but the rains had abated, the stark veld suffering the consequences of the harsh onslaught of 40° plus temperatures and searing winds. Thankfully the temperature on our second day had abated so it was comparatively mild, topping in the mid 30s, with protective cloud, - a day for relaxing and reading.A glorious spectacular sunset heralded another beautiful evening, the barking geckos, jackals and other night sounds wafted on the air. 

After a little braai we packed up camp, securing all our equipment (we had heard lions in the distance the previous night). Jill showered and got into the  rooftop tent. I was just finishing showering when I noticed an animal in the murky edges of the circle of light. I yelled “Jill, a leopard”, but in the low light had doubts and thought it could perhaps be a cheetah….. big mistake! 

 

We meet a leopard in Chobe National Park, 
But on safe distance!
Botswana, 2019.

 

I hurriedly secured our motion sensor lights around the Hilux and clambered up into the tent.  We zipped up the gauze insect protective coverings and, feeling secure, lay in bed reading. We were aware of the animal circling the vehicle by virtue of the motion sensor lights being triggered and at one point we were aware that the ‘cheetah’ had crawled under the bakkie, only its tail visible. In the glimpses we caught, we could see the animal was completely emaciated and gaunt. 

I started feeling uneasy - this was unusual activity, and thought “thank goodness we are in a rooftop tent”.

Eventually we dozed off into slumberland. It must’ve been around 10 pm. 

At about 01:30 I jerked awake having heard movement on the ladder. Sitting bolt upright, instantly wide awake, I peered down the ladder and saw the animal climbing up. I shouted ”he’s coming up the ladder”! Screaming  and swearing was no deterrent as he scrambled up and launched himself onto the gauze of the tent, his claws gripping the thin fabric with his head inches from my face. I started punching at it furiously in the face with all my might. I realized we were now bare fisted fighting for our lives. Both of us were shouting and screaming, Jill from behind me, hitting with a pillow at its paws, and then with her book. Every now and again the animal pulled its head back in a terrifying gesture as if to attack and bite through the gauze. At these moments I concentrated on punching his claws. I became aware that there was blood spattering in copious amounts, but just carried on punching and shouting, adrenaline coursing through my body in this fight for life.  Terrifyingly during the whole attack there wasn’t a sound from the animal, just its jagged breathing as it concentrated on the assault. There was no flight option at this point. The terror is palatable as I write this. I must have punched at least 30 times, using all my energy.

Eventually the animal fell back and we realised we had a temporary “stay of execution “!

My hand was bleeding profusely.  Jill took off a pillow slip which we hurriedly wrapped around it to try and stem the flow of blood. 

Panting and shaking from this terrifying experience which lasted at least a minute, we considered our options. We had to get into the vehicle, but how? While we pondered we heard what sounded like the animal jumping on the bonnet! It seemed like a horror movie! We would be fighting for our lives the night through! When the animal reappeared at the foot of the ladder we sprayed it with water from a spray bottle we had with us…. this was not much of a deterrent but a mild distraction. Jill came up with the suggestion of pulling the ladder in. As I opened the gauze to do this, the animal reappeared attacking the bottom of the ladder as I swung it at him. Eventually we got the ladder in with the tent zipped up - but What now? We definitely had to get into the vehicle, only how? I could either dash down the ladder and confront the beast using the ladder as a weapon, or stealthily creep down the ladder on the opposite side of the bakkie as the animal was now in the A frame hungrily plotting his next move. The latter was a less grizzly option as long as the front left door was not locked (a lousy Toyota anomaly). 

Before I over considered this scary option,  I opened the tent on the opposite side, slipped down the ladder, my heart pounding in my chest, and into the vehicle which thank God was open. Jill hauled the ladder in, shouting to ask if I was ok, but I couldn’t hear her,  She was relieved when she saw the headlights illuminating as I slid into the drivers seat. Shaking with shock, adrenaline and  with the exertions of pounding at the beast’s face with all my might for a lengthy period, I thought at least now we have a chance as I started the Toyota.

Yelling to Jill to find out if she was ok, I reversed, blood dripping everywhere. I  drove the vehicle towards it in an attempt to chase it,  then drove slowly to camp number 2 about 3 kms away, all the while yelling to Jill if she was ok and telling her to shine backward down the road to make sure the animal wasn’t following us. 

At the other campsite I nervously alighted and got Jill down from the RTT [roof top tent].

The pillow slip was by now soaked in blood. We gingerly pulled it open expecting to see a shredded hand, but to our surprise all that blood came from a single, pretty deep scratch at the base of my ring finger. Phew….relief! Nurse Jill applied her skills, we washed my hand in a dettol solution, dried it and put on bandages and antiseptics … things were at last looking up. All this time we were nervously keeping our eyes open as we suspected it may be coming after its injured prey. 

We slowly drove back towards our camp.  In the headlights, there it was….unmistakably a gaunt, highly compromised leopard. My skin crawled as realization set in that we had just, with our fists,  driven off this killer animal! 

We took some iPhone pictures before she ducked away and disappeared into the dark bush.

At the camp, sitting in the Hilux talking about the incident, we realized just  how lucky we had been. We were suffering now from post traumatic stress so I quickly jumped out and retrieved a bottle of whisky which we sipped neat to calm our jangld nerves.

What a night! We realized once again we were lucky to be alive. 

The following morning we packed up camp and drove to Mabua gate to report the incident. At the gate we met a French couple, both vets, who very kindly redressed my wound and gave advice regarding rabies and tetanus shots. After consulting doctors we realized I needed an anti tetanus shot. We washed our bloodied sheets at the game scout camp and then set off to Lesholoago camp hoping it would be unoccupied - fortunately it was.

That evening DWNP game scouts arrived to check on us. 

The next day we drove around the Pans hoping to find a doctor amongst the campers. Amazingly there was a group at Mphaya who had an anti tetnus shot - what a relief!

We reported the incident to the SANPARKS when we arrived at Nossob few days later.. 

This was such an unexpected, terrifying and horrific experience which is taking time to assimilate. However one must accept that visiting the wild is a highly risky activity. I have been going to Mabua for 43 years, almost every year and sometimes 2 or 3 times a year, so regard myself as reasonably experienced. I have always carried an axe and a divers knife into the tent with me, but the recent acquisition of a rooftop tent has made me feel safer so I have let this practise slip. Big mistake! If we had straight away recognized the animal as a leopard, I would have been more alert and cautious. A compromised animal is a far more dangerous risk as we all know. 

I am glad we stayed on for five extra nights; it helped come to terms with the incident."

Our own leopard experience on walking safari 2022

"Did you see the leopard passing the road?" asks our guide Bruno. We are on our first walking safari shortly after arriving at Mundulea Camp. Earlier, on the way to the camp, I reassured my wife, "No visitors have ever seen cats [leopard, lion, and cheetah] in this area, it should be quite safe." Fortunately, the second argument I gave for undertaking this adventure still holds: "They cannot run a business if tourists are eaten all the time." After our new information about the leopard, we keep a tighter formation, walking one by one in the dense bush, and no one really wants to be the last person in the row. Read on and see all the pictures from Mundulea Camp (link) 

Later the same night, we were sitting around the fire when our guide told us an interesting story about "the tiger [leopard] in the tree". Read on (link) 

 

We also meet a leopard in Chobe National Park,
but on safe distance!
Botswana, 2019.

Namibia, how much malaria?

Background 

What do we know from official and scientific sources about the malaria risk in Namibia?

I am not a malaria researcher, but I have had a look on the malaria data from Namibia based on my background as a Medical Doctor, Infectious Diseases Specialist and Professor of Infectious Diseases Epidemiology in Denmark. For the last 28 years, I have worked in a Travel Clinic at the National Hospital in Copenhagen.

Please note that you can find some information and inspiration below, but you should always consult your general practitioner, travel clinic, or travel doctor for specific advice. Such specific advice will also depend on any comorbidities (conditions you may have) and potential interactions with the medication you take. Additionally, although there is general agreement among experienced travel doctors, there may be differences in national recommendations.

Anopheles stephensi, female
Photo by Jim Gathany

Global malaria burden according to WHO (WHO malaria report 2022)

According to the WHO World Malaria Report 2022, there were an estimated 247 million malaria cases in 2021 across 84 malaria-endemic countries in the world, an increase from 245 million in 2020. Most cases occurred within the WHO African Region, with an estimated 234 million cases in 2021 (96% global malaria cases). Twenty-nine countries accounted for about 95% of global cases, with four countries: Nigeria (27%), the Democratic Republic of the Congo (12%), Uganda (5%), and Mozambique (4%), accounting for almost half of all cases worldwide.

Malaria in Namibia

WHO, World malaria report 2022.
Confirmed malaria cases per 1000 pop., 2021

Article

In Namibia, the overall risk of malaria is low, as indicated on the two maps above, except in the northernmost parts of the country bordering Angola and the Caprivi Strip

As indicated in the table below, there were estimated between 17,000 and 26,000 cases of malaria in Namibia in 2021 (latest WHO data) with 23-92 deaths. The vast majority of cases were observed in the constituencies; Omusati, Oshana, Changwena, Oshikoto, Kavango, and Caprivi. This corresponds to the older map above (2009 data)

WHO, World malaria report 2022,
Incidence and mortality rate Namibia 2000-2021.

The influence of climate / rain on malaria risk

The rainy season enhances the conditions favorable for mosquito breeding and survival, thereby considerably increasing the risk of malaria transmission. Rain leads to the accumulation of water, creating ideal breeding grounds for Anopheles mosquitoes, which are responsible for transmitting malaria. For example, a scientific article from Namibia found that rain was strongly associated with malaria risk, with each millimeter of rainfall linked to a 2% increase in the adjusted odds of malaria. Similarly, higher levels of vegetation were associated with increased odds of malaria.

Malaria pills in Namibia from a practical point of view?

Personally, and based on the data above, I consider the area north of Windhoek to be a malaria zone, except for the Skeleton Coast (e.g., if you only drive along the Skeleton Coast to Terrace Bay, you are not in a malaria area). Depending on the medication you take, you may need to start it days to weeks before entering the malaria area and remember to continue taking it after leaving the area for as long as recommended, usually 1-4 weeks depending on the choice of medication.

An alternative option could be to take anti-malarial medication south of Etosha only during the rainy season and then seek medical attention if fever occurs. Personally, I would not do this, but I think it might be an option. If so, be extra careful to follow the mosquito avoidance advice below.

Which malaria profylaxis?

• Antimalarial Medication

Prescription Drugs: Take antimalarial drugs as prescribed by your healthcare provider. The type of medication, dosage, and duration depend on your health status and any existing medications. Some of the most fewquently used drugs are

1. Atovaquone/proguanil, sold under the brand name Malarone among others. It must be taken with a fatty meal, or at least some milk, for the body to absorb it adequately - and to avoid painful stomach irritation, which proguanil frequently causes if taken without food. Note that there are important interactions with other medications. 
2. Doxycycline is a broad-spectrum antibiotic of the tetracycline class that can also be used to prevent malaria. Note that an erythematous rash in sun-exposed parts of the body is not unusual for persons taking doxycycline for malaria prophylaxis. The rash resolves upon discontinuation of the drug. Good sun protection reduces the risk. 
3. Mefloquine, sold under the brand name Lariam among others, is a medication used to prevent or treat malaria. Because of potentially severe side effects, it´s not used so often. Severe side effects requiring hospitalization are rare, but include mental health problems such as depression, hallucinations, anxiety, and neurological side effects such as poor balance, seizures, and ringing in the ears. Mefloquine is therefore not recommended in people with a history of psychiatric disorders or epilepsy.

• Mosquito Avoidance

1. Use Insect Repellent: Apply insect repellent, e.g. with DEET (>20% (>40% preferred)) on exposed skin.
2. Wear Protective Clothing: Wear long sleeves, long pants, and socks, especially during dusk
3. Insecticide-Treated Bed Nets: While sleeping, especially in high-risk areas, to prevent mosquito bites. These nets are treated with insecticide, which kills or repels mosquitoes.

Again, always! Consult your general practitioner, travel clinic, or travel doctor for specific advice. Such specific advice will also depend on any comorbidities (conditions you may have) and potential interactions with the medication you take. Additionally, although there is general agreement among experienced travel doctors, there may be differences in national recommendations.

Namibia 2024 itinerary "Deserts and wilderness"

Proverb 

"Camp sites fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember sometimes a particular bend of your wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as if it were a significant landmark in your life"

 Karen Blixen (Isak Dinesen) in "Out of Africa", 1937

Me and my wifes campsite, Trekking on our own in
Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997. 

Daughter, son and wife at campsite,
Little Hunter´s Rest, Tiras Mountains,
Namibia, 2009.

Planning the trip is half the pleasure!

Over the years, it has become a beloved hobby to plan self-drive trips in Africa and write this travel blog. When I plan the trips, I am already in Africa! And I relive our many previous adventures! Such a joy.

Namibia 2024, planning phase
at home in Copenhagen

In the planning phase, I love to explore maps, guidebooks, the internet, FB travel groups, and TripAdvisor. Until recently, I used ExpertAfrica.com in the UK for bookings and car hire (and once used SafariDrive.com). These UK-based travel agents, especially ExpertAfrica, are perfect if you can accept their fine trip suggestions with just a few individual modifications. 

However, now that it’s our 6th trip to this part of Africa, and we have visited many places and have our own opinions on where to stay and go, I found it more useful to book the Toyota Land Cruiser directly through Bushlore.com and use their bookings department in Johannesburg for securing campsites, lodges, etc., based on our own itinerary. In addition, I booked directly on my own where there was a good online booking system such as "Nightsbridge." This has worked very well—the final test will, of course, be when we arrive in Windhoek in September!

Why this "deserts and wilderness route"? 

This time, the focus is camping in deserts and wilderness, venturing from southeast to northwest! It's an unusual route reflecting that it’s our 6th trip to Namibia and the fact that we love remote desert landscapes! Also, the route reflects that we have to meet our Danish friends at Bagatelle Guest Farm south of Windhoek 14 days after our own arrival. This will be their first trip to Africa! Furthermore, we prebooked the Nossob 4x4 Wilderness Trail one year in advance (it gets sold out immediately after bookings opens) as it has been a long dream of mine to visit Kgalagadi again after a fantastic experience with my son years ago (Link to father son trip) and to show my wife this extraordinary national park the size of Denmark. Going south from Windhoek and then north again towards Windhoek allows us to try some special tracks such as D1033 and perhaps D1022! You can read our report from these tracks later on this blog!

Our general travel itinerary 2024:

• Towards Kalahari Desert / Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park on: "4WD adventure"
• Camping in NamibRand Nature Reserve: "Desert and stargazing"
• Through Namib-Naukluft National Park to Swakopmund: "two mountain passes and the coast"
• Through Erongo and Kunene regions & exploring Etendeka Plateau: "Volcanic rocks & flat-topped mountains"
• Remote Kunene/Kaokoland wilderness days: "Explooring Africa´s last wilderness"
• Along Cunene River on the Angolan border: "The green oasis"
• Etosha National Park and Erongo Mountains luxury finish: "The big five & gastronomy"

Specific stops and links to homepages (6 weeks trip):

Route on TripAdvisor

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, campsite, 2 nights Bagatelle
2. Kalahari Game Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Kalahari GL
3. Mata-Mata Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
4. Kalahari Tented Camp, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
5. Nossob Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, camping, 3 nights Nossob 4x4-trail
7. Twee Rivieren Restcamp, camping, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
8. Kalahari Game Lodge, 1 night Kalahari GL
9.  Bagatelle Kalahari Botique Farmhouse, 1 night (join friends from DK) Bagatelle Farmhouse
10. Namib Rand Family Hideout, campsite, 3 nights Family hideout camping
11. Desert Breeze Lodge, villa, 3 nights Desert Breeze
12. Madisa Camp, campsite, 1 night Madisa Camp
13.  Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, open air, 2 nights Etendeka Trail
14.  Etendeka Mountain Camp, main camp, 1 night Etendeka Main Camp
15. Khowarib Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Khowarib Lodge Campsite
16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp, campsite, 2 nights Puros Bush Lodge
17. Etambura Camp, 3 nights Etaambura Camp
18. Opuwo Country Lodge, 1 night Opuwo Lodge
19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp, campsite, 2 nights Omarunga EP Camp
20. Camp Cornie, campsite, 2 nights Camp Cornie
21. Dolomite Camp, 2 nights Etosha Dolomite Camp
22. Omurenga Lodge, 2 nights Omurenga
23. River Crossing Lodge, 1 night Rivercrossing

Some potential activities the different places:

In the following, some of the special activities we plan to do some of the different places besides the usual very nice scenic- and game drives and sundowners, the number refers to the list above.

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: a) View the spectacular southern hemisphere sky from observatory with a state-of-the-art computer-controlled telescope, b) Cheetah Excursion to get up close and personal with the fastest land animal on Earth.

Sundowner drive, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2009

2. Kalahari Game Lodge: Try their 4×4 self-drive trail in Kalahari on a 3500ha portion of the lodge.

6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail: Challenging 4x4 driving on a small track through the Kalahari dunes in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks, covering a total distance of 214km, sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights. See my specific posts about the trail and our experiences during the trip later. 

Video when my son and I drove from Gharagab Wilderness camp on the exit track:

9. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: See 1. above.

10. Namib Rand Family Hideout: a) Experience the NamibRand Nature Reserve characterized by expansive plains, towering mountain ranges, and iconic red sand dunes sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights and stargazing, b) Visits Duwisib Castle 80 km away, c) Visit Sossusvlei, d) Try 4WD track. See my specific posts about NamibRand and our experiences during the trip later.

11. Desert Breeze Lodge / Swakopmund: a)  Sandwich Harbour 4x4 drive, see later post, b) Walwis Bay Catamaran Tour, c) The Tug (restaurant), d) Ocean Cellar (restaurant), e) Exploore Swakop.

12. Madisa Camp: Track elephants.

Sundowner near Madisa Camp,
Namibia, 2012

13. Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail: See our blog from previous visit Trail report

Etendeka Mountain Camp, "tents" in distance,
Namibia, 2019

14. Etendeka Mountain Camp: Stargazing through the telescope.

 Etendeka Mountain Camp,
Namibia, 2009

15. Khowarib Lodge: a) Drive to Ongongo Hot Spring for swim, b) Visit Sesfontein. See our blog from previous visit Report Khowarib  

Me & son, Ongongo Hot Spring,
Namibia, 2012

16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp: a) Visiting Himba´s, see our blog from previous visit Puros Himba visit, b) Drive along Hoarusip River to Puros Canyon, see our blog from previous visit including elephant encounter(!) Report from Puros Canyon 

View point near Puros.
Me checking the road ahead of us! 
Namibia, 2012 

17. Etambura Camp: a) Enjoy this very special place, read about our previous visit Etaambura report, b) Visit Himba´s Report previous Himba visit, c) Extreeme 4WD driving to Marienfluss, read report from previous trip Report Marienfluss Drive. 

Video from the road from Puros to Etambura, Namibia, 2012: 

18. Opuwo Country Lodge: buy new supplies form trip to north.

19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp: a) Visit Epupa Falls, read our previous report Epupa Flls Oasis, b) Go on a rafting trip, read our previous report Riverrafting Kunene

Riverrafting Cunene River,
Namibia, 2019

20. Camp Cornie: a) Canoeing the Kunene, b) Fishing the Kunene.

21. Dolomite Camp:  Night drive.

Our cabin, Dolomite Camp,
Etosha, Namibia, 2012

22. Omurenga Lodge: Visit Kristall Kellerei, the oldest wine farm in Namibia Kristall Kellerei

Before departing for Africa - thoughts on travelling

To travel! It is indeed the happiest fate!

Our daughter, Klein Aus Vista,
Aus Mountains, Namibia, 2009

In his first travel book "Shadow Pictures" from 1831, the famous Danish author H. C. Andersen describes the journey as follows:

Oh, to travel! To travel! It is indeed the happiest fate! And therefore we all travel; Everything travels in the entire Universe! Even the poorest man owns the winged horse of thought, and if it becomes weak and old, Death still takes him on the journey, the great journey, we all travel. The waves roll from coast to coast; the clouds sail across the vast sky, and the bird flies across fields and meadows. We all travel, even the dead in their quiet graves, fly with the Earth around the Sun. Yes, "to travel," it is a fixed idea in the entire Universe, but we humans are children, we even want to play "To travel" in the midst of our and the great natural journey of things.

 Source ([H. C. Andersen (1805-75): Skyggebilleder fra en Reise til Harzen])

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park 2015. In the middle of nowhere,
100 km desolate sand track ahead of me and my son. Just so 
wonderful in its own peculiar way! We are in our own private
"Sea of Tranquility" for the next many hours! (Kgalagadi 2015)

6th trip to Namibia, venturing into the wilderness

Now, we are embarking on another adventurous journey! This will mark our 6th trip to Namibia and the surrounding countries. My wife and I are now 55 and 57 years old, and this time, we will be travelling without our two adult children for the second time. It is a bit melancholic, however, after 14 days, our two - I would say quite brave - friends from Denmark will join us for their first trip to Africa ever (except for a conference at the Waterfront in Cape Town)! 

We hope they will have the journey of their life. Certainly, they are not taking the normal first-time tourist route in Namibia (see next post), for example, venturing deeply into Kaokoland! which is one of the wildest and least populated areas in Namibia, with a population density of one person every 2 km2. Kaokoland is actually one of the wildest regions of Southern Africa, with very few roads and structures. 

The only road accessible to non-4WD vehicles in this region connects Sesfontein and Opuwo, but of course we will not be taking that route ;-) Instead, we will head towards the remote settlements of Puros and Orupempe. We will follow roads that are spectacularly beautiful - but in very bad condition, posing challenges even for our two 4WD Toyota Land Cruisers

Landscape on the way to Puros,
Kaokoland, 2012 (Kaokoland trip)

Blog author, daughter, and son (& wife) taking a break.
Literally on the track from Puros to Orupembe.
Kaokoland, Namibia, 2012

Indeed, as H. C. Andersen writes, "the happiest fate"! We are privileged to be travelling with good friends in the part of the world we have come to love so much. In the next post, you can read more about the specific route and itinerary.

Me and my son, Okavango Delta, Botswana 2019
"Oh, to travel! To travel! It is indeed the happiest fate!"