Friday 21 October 2022

Spitzkoppe ”Matterhorn of Namibia”

We see three distinct hills in the distance;
Gross Spitzkoppe,Klein Spitzkoppe and Pondok mountains,
700 meters above the surrounding plains in this very sparse populated area.

Leaving nice Galton Guesthouse in Windhoek, we drive 4 hours for “the Matterhorn of Namibia”. It´s  a wonderful area we visited with our children on a camping tour in 2012. The last roads are very corrugated and not suited for our 2WD Kia, the only rental car that was available in Namibia when we booked (!) Every time we hit a bump on the corrugated road, the instrument panel lights up and all pointers go to zero. Thus, we lose all engine information. We just have to carry on and hope for the best (and occasionally check for engine temperature if no information for a long period). 

Now, we see the three distinct hills in the distance; Gross Spitzkoppe, Klein Spitzkoppe and Pondok mountains. They are some 700 meters above the surrounding plains in this very sparse populated area. Gross Spitzkoppe is the highest mountain at 1784 meters above sea level. 

From the distance, the hills seem like an island of mountains in the middle of nowhere surrounded by dry brown plains. They were created by volcanic activity some 500-750 million years ago (according to the guidebook) and have eroded ever since. It´s Tatooine teretory! (Star Wars lovers will know what I refer to)

Third highest mountain top early morning

Spitzkoppe (our lodge below)

It’s also a place of “rock art” (bushman paintings). The most often red paintings are about 5000 years old. The San, or Bushmen, are indigenous people in Southern Africa. Their ancient rock paintings and carvings (collectively called rock art) are found in caves and on rock shelters. Many near Spitzkoppe. The artwork depicts non-human beings, hunters, and half-human half-animal hybrids.

5000 yrs old scorpion painting

5000 yrs old lion painting

Spitzkoppe is a wonderful area to explore with many well-marked trails. You can walk around the lodge / campsite. Alternatively, you can drive around in the area.

First time we visited Spitzkoppe with our children, we stayed in tents below the peek “Pondok” at Spitzkoppe Campsite, where we had an interesting hike to Bushman´s Paradise trekking to the top along chains bolted into the mountain. This time, my wife and I are fortunate to experience the luxury of the nearby Spitzkoppe Lodge although we also love camping. 

Spitzkoppe Lodge


We arrive in the lodge, where we are greeted by a staff member. He gives us cold towels to clean our hands and face for dust and cold juice for the throat. Highly appreciated after the dusty drive. The lodge itself has a unique setting, fused in between the red granite boulders. There is a “natural swimming pool”, where you can cool down and enjoy the many birds drinking (and shi…..) in the same water. Nevertheless, it´s a nice place to rest, have a drink and watch the sunset.

“Natural pool”, Spitzkoppe Lodge

“Natural pool”, Spitzkoppe Lodge

“Natural pool”, Spitzkoppe Lodge

“Natural pool”, Spitzkoppe Lodge

Reception, Spitzkoppe Lodge

Activities, Spitzkoppe Lodge

Spitzkoppe Lodge

Spitzkoppe Lodge

Spitzkoppe Lodge

We get our “tent” no. 15. It´s situated privately furthest away from the lodge, thus we could enjoy the solitude. I reckon 10 minutes’ walk away from the lodge, the first part on an elevated wooden walkway. 

Spitzkoppe Lodge

During night, we are kept awake by the hard wind shaking the whole construction, a loud ever changing sound reminding us of the solitude. In contrast, during the middle of the day, we are dizzy from the sunny 35C, no wind and no air condition! But most of the time, we are just enjoying this spectacular place. 

Hike to mountain top

We opt for two activities and a private drive in our own car. At first, we hike to the third highest mountain top in the area together with a guide. Second, we go on a group tour to the nearby; Rock Arch, Little Bushman´s Paradise and the Snake Fossil. 

Rock Arch, Spitzkoppe

The hike starts at 7 am. After a short drive to the starting point, we follow the slope up the mountain. Quite OK. Then, it becomes increasingly steep and difficult. Wisely, my wife decide to stay behind and wait until we return. 

View from 3rd highest mountain

The last part that cannot be recommended to anyone in fear of heights. There is nothing to hold on. If you fall, you are in serious troubles for some seconds (then you are released from all future troubles when you hit the ground below). However, the view on the top is spectacular!

Wiev from 3rd highest mountain, Spitzkoppe area

Perhaps expressed fine in the greeting letter we found in “our tent” at arrival.

“And if these mountains had eyes, they would wake to find two strangers in their fences, standing in admiration as a breathing red pours its tinge upon earth's shore. These mountains, which have seen untold sunrises, long to thunder praise but stand reverent, silent so that man's weak praise should be given God's attention” (Donald Miller)

(In Danish “Og hvis disse bjerge havde øjne, ville de vågne ved at finde to fremmede i deres hegn, der stod i beundring, mens en åndende rød farve udgyder sit skær på jordens kyst. Disse bjerge, som har set ufortalte historier, længes efter at tordne lovsang, men står ærbødige, tavse, så menneskets svage lovprisning skal gives Guds opmærksomhed”)

View from 3rd highest peak

Near Rock Arch, Spitzkoppe



1 comment:

Thanks for your comment, I return as soon as we have internet again