The Car Breaks Down!

The Car Breaks Down and the Satellite Phone Comes into Use

On the way to Madisa Campsite, 18 July 2012

 

Is this where the engine is?
Namibia 2012

And so came our first challenge! Rather appropriately, Madisa means "come here if you need help" in the local language.

The problem was not the approximately 230-kilometre drive from Spitzkoppe to Madisa Campsite along small gravel roads via Uis. Just five kilometres from Madisa Campsite, the car suddenly lost all power, the alternator warning light came on, and at the same time, the temperature gauge shot up to maximum.

We managed to pull over to the side of the road and opened the bonnet. Not that it made much difference, as I am hardly an expert mechanic! However, even to someone with very limited mechanical knowledge, it was obvious that the cooling system was bubbling and hissing.

I checked the oil level, which was fine, and the coolant level, which was also fine.

On closer inspection, it turned out that the car could still be driven in "towing mode" in first and second gear at 5–10 kilometres per hour, provided you could actually get it moving without the engine cutting out.

Out came the satellite phone, and we immediately managed to contact Duane in Windhoek. Fortunately, we could still remember how to use it!

Duane recommended that we crawl the remaining five kilometres to Madisa Campsite in towing mode, while he would try to contact Johan Raubenheimer, who manages the campsite.

So off we crept in our now wounded and considerably less mighty Land Rover Discovery, eventually being shown to a campsite on the banks of the Huab River.

It was not particularly reassuring that our Land Rover, which was supposed to cover 4,500 kilometres, had broken down after just 450 kilometres.

Johan had an explanation:

The Land Rover is the British revenge on Africa (and now also on a family of four from Denmark)!

It subsequently turned out that the "gadget" responsible for tensioning the fan belt had broken, causing the belt itself, which runs through a maze of pulleys in the finest tradition of British engineering, to snap.

Further conversations with Duane in Windhoek via satellite phone eventually resulted in a mechanic being dispatched with a replacement Land Rover, making the 450-kilometre journey from Windhoek to Madisa.

A rather lonely place to break down.
Fortunately, only five kilometres from Madisa Campsite.
Namibia 2012

Some rather unusual road signs in Namibia

When we reached the campsite
Namibia 2012

Spitzkoppe via the Trans-Kalahari Highway

Spitzkoppe is finally in sight!
Namibia 2012

17 July – Namibia's Matterhorn

The journey to Spitzkoppe was approximately 220 kilometres, heading west along the Trans-Kalahari Highway. Spitzkoppe is situated in the southernmost part of Kaokoland, rising some 600 metres above the surrounding, incredibly beautiful landscape. The area is characterised by reddish rocks arranged in the most extraordinary formations, with enormous boulders balancing on top of one another.

There are numerous rock paintings in the area, created by the Bushmen between 200 and 4,000 years ago. One particularly beautiful spot is Bushman's Paradise, which we reached by climbing a long, steep rock face using chains bolted directly into the rock.

All in all, the scenery was absolutely magnificent and invited further exploration.

In the evening, we set up camp for the first time, and apart from a few teething problems, everything went quite smoothly. However, during the night, it became clear that we had chosen a rather exposed spot, as the wind picked up. Everything was shaking and rattling in the wind.

I think we all (apart from Laust, who slept soundly whenever Thea wasn't waking him up) spent much of the night lying awake, listening to all the strange and unfamiliar sounds. Could they be dangerous animals?

We recognised the feeling from previous trips – that first night sleeping out in the wilderness again. It takes some getting used to. We city dwellers (Copenhagen city slickers) have become rather alienated from nature!

Our first camp in the wilderness
Spitzkoppe Campsite,
Namibia 2012



Our son attempting to destroy Spitzkoppe's famous landmark
Watch out below!
Namibia 2012

Bushman's Paradise
Spitzkoppe, Namibia 2012

Descending from Bushman’s Paradise
with the help of chains!
Namibia 2012

The descent back to the vehicle
just visible in the foreground.
Spitzkoppe, Namibia 2012

Driving School – The Fun Way!

Mandatory Off-Road Driving Course

Windhoek, 16 July 2012

In the afternoon, we had a mandatory off-road driving course with Richard from "Be Local". We met Richard at Windhoek Country Club, where, after a brief introduction, we drove to a nearby gravel pit.

Here, we were put through our paces for about two hours. We started by tackling a very steep hill full of large holes and deep ruts, while Richard politely but very firmly issued instructions. Just like learning to drive when you were 17!

Among other things, we had to put the vehicle into low range with the differential lock engaged, and then drive up and down the slopes in second gear.

My wife was certainly breaking into a sweat, but so were our passengers, our daughter and son. Yes, they even threatened to leave the vehicle and sat clinging to the back seats!

It was a fantastic experience, though – every big boy's dream! We felt we were in safe hands with Richard. It was obvious that he knew exactly what he was teaching.

After the gravel pit, we set off at a fairly high speed along a winding and undulating gravel road.

The principle was always to keep some power going to the wheels when turning or negotiating obstacles, and then reduce speed again on the straight stretches. Equally important was keeping well away from the edge of the road to avoid catching the edge (or ending up in the ravine).

All in all, it was a fun, exciting and very educational afternoon.

Pia was also rather proud of having passed her 4WD driving course (with flying colours). Now she can boast about it to her two male colleagues at work!

Pia feeling slightly under pressure
Richard from Be Local cracking the whip!

My wife and I taking a 4WD driving course with an experienced instructor – an incredibly rewarding experience! See video

Safety Briefing and Vehicle Inspection in Windhoek

Safety Briefing

Windhoek, 16 July 2012

Outside River Crossing Lodge Windhoek,
Blog author inspecting the Land Rover
Safari Drive, Namibia 2012

Monday, 16 July, began with a meeting with Duane from Safari Drive. During this meeting, we systematically went through our entire route across Namibia and Botswana to Zambia. Duane provided various instructions and useful tips for every single place where we would be staying overnight. He also went through the Land Rover's documents, particularly the precautions to take when crossing international borders.

The border crossing between Botswana and Zambia was apparently going to be a chaotic nightmare, but as Duane put it, clearly trying to sell the experience, "Everyone should experience that border crossing at least once in their lifetime!" (!)

The border between Namibia and Botswana, on the other hand, should be fairly straightforward. Just a few stamps in our passports, and we would be using probably the most remote border crossing of all, near Tsumkwe in the Kalahari.

We would also be crossing the veterinary fence on our way north, passing through the "disease control point" at Palmwag on the way towards Sesfontein.

The fence encloses the entire central part of Namibia to protect it from foot-and-mouth disease, which is only found outside the protected zone. When crossing back "inside the fence" into central Namibia, you are not allowed to bring fresh meat or dairy products with you. However, this does not prevent enterprising customs officers from confiscating food from tourists travelling out of the zone, as many tourists are unfamiliar with the regulations. At least the customs officer's family will have their dinner sorted out, which is some consolation.

The Land Rover we are driving is registered in Britain, and its number plate is easy to remember: "Xiao Alm". Roughly translated, something along the lines of "ordinary goodbye".

During the safety briefing, Duane also went through the satellite phone and satellite navigation system, and programmed his number into the phone's memory. As it turned out, we would need this safety precaution much sooner than expected! (1st car breakdown link, 2nd car break down link, 3rd car breakdown - and in real trouble link)!

Worth its weight in gold in an emergency
Always keep it charged!

Vehicle Inspection

After the safety briefing with Duane, we went outside River Crossing Lodge, where the Land Rover was waiting for us in the car park.

Here, every piece of equipment in the vehicle was systematically inspected and ticked off on a checklist. Everything was tested, including the diesel tank (110 litres), water tank (40 litres), rooftop tent, ground tent, high-lift and standard jacks, two spare wheels, fridge/freezer, various tools and every conceivable (and inconceivable) piece of camping equipment for four people.

This included mattresses, bedding, chairs, a table, a checked tablecloth (!), cutlery, glasses, a gas stove and a kettle.

The vehicle is packed to the limit and weighs close to two tonnes. It is very top-heavy, and the greatest risk is rolling over if you stray off the side of the road.

In practice, driving it feels rather like driving a large lorry.

We were also shown how to use the compressor to inflate the tyres. When driving through loose sand for an extended period, typically more than an hour, or if (when) you get stuck, you let air out of each tyre for one minute, which improves traction.

If the compressor breaks down, we also have a hand pump in the vehicle. That would take a couple of hours! As Duane put it, "It's good exercise."

Inspection of the Land Rover Defender
Everything is systematically tested before departure

Fully equipped with everything imaginable

My wife and I taking a 4WD driving course with an experienced instructor – an incredibly rewarding experience! See video

Namibia: Vast Landscapes and Surprising Weather

Plenty of Space for Everyone in Namibia

 

On the road from Windhoek towards Spitzkoppe
Namibia 2012

Namibia lies in south-western Africa, bordered by Angola to the north, Botswana to the east, South Africa to the south, and the Atlantic Ocean to the west. In the north-east, the country stretches towards Zambia via a narrow corridor known as the Caprivi Strip.

Namibia is roughly twenty times the size of Denmark, yet home to only around two million people. The result is a striking sense of space -vast, open landscapes where you can drive for hours without seeing another vehicle.

Bitterly Cold Nights

 

Thea keeping warm under the duvet with frost outside
River Crossing Lodge, Windhoek, Namibia 2012

When we told people we were travelling to Africa this summer, the usual response was: 

“You’re heading for the heat.” 

That turns out to be only partly true.

After arriving yesterday, we found ourselves sitting in our room at River Crossing Lodge - perched on a hillside above Windhoek -feeling distinctly cold in 10°C and wind. During the night, the temperature dropped to –4°C. For a moment, we almost missed the Danish summer.

Namibia may be a semi-desert country, with around 300 days of sunshine each year, but when it is summer in Denmark, it is winter here. Midday temperatures are generally pleasant at 18-25°C, warmer further north, but evenings and nights can be surprisingly cold, occasionally even dropping below freezing.

Four degrees of frost in Windhoek is unusual, however. At this time of year, night temperatures are typically closer to 10°C. Duane from Safari Drive told us that this winter has been particularly cold across southern Africa, something he attributes to broader climatic shifts.

Predictable Weather somehow

One thing you can rely on at this time of year is sunshine. It hasn’t rained since April, and the forecast for the coming days shows little variation.

For once, being a meteorologist in Namibia during winter must be a straightforward job.

One could be a meteorologist in Namibia in winter
Not much variation but better than the Danish summer

[Dansk]

Namibia ligger i det Sydvestlige Afrika og grænser op til Angola mod nord, Botswana mod øst, Sydafrika mod syd og Atlanterhavet mod vest. Herudover er landet forbundet til Zambia i nordøst med en landtange kaldet Caprivistriben. Namibia er ca. 20 gange større end Danmark, men der bor kun ca. 2 millioner mennesker, så der er ganske god plads til alle.

Når vi har fortalt, at vi skulle til Afrika denne sommer, har mange spontant sagt; ”så skal I ned i varmen”. Det er nu en sandhed med ret store modifikationer! Efter ankomst i går sad vi f.eks. og frøs på værelset i River Crossing Lodge på en bakketop i Windhoek i 10 graders kulde og blæst, og om natten faldt temperaturen til 4 graders frost! Det var lige før man kom til at længes efter den danske sommer dette år. Namibia er ganske vist et ørkenland (semi-desert). Der er hele 300 solskinsdage om året, men når det er sommer i Danmark, så er det vinter i Namibia! Midt på dagen er temperaturen behagelige 18-25 grader, varmere mod nord, men om aftenen og natten kan det blive særdeles køligt, ja til tider endog nattefrost. Fire graders frost er nu usædvanligt i Windhoek, hvor der normalt er der ca. 10 grader om natten på denne tid af året. Duane fra Safari Drive fortalte os i dag, at denne vinter har været ualmindelig i hele det sydlige Afrika. Det tilskrives global opvarmning.

A Teddy Bear Threatens Flight Safety; journey to Namibia with Maude

Laust’s mascot “Maude”
Stops airport security in Frankfurt! Yiehoo!

A Teddy Bear Threatens Flight Safety

The journey from Copenhagen to Frankfurt, on to Johannesburg, and finally to Windhoek was, for the most part, uneventful. However, as it turned out, Laust’s mascot—Maude—briefly caused a minor security scare in Frankfurt.

Security Alert in Frankfurt

As Laust’s hand luggage passed through the scanner, everything suddenly stopped. The small rucksack went back and forth through the machine several times while an increasing number of increasingly senior officials were called in to interpret the mysterious image.

Our lane was closed. Other passengers were redirected. Two armed police officers kept a close watch on us.

The bag went through the scanner again. And again.

Eventually, perhaps concluding that we looked sufficiently harmless - if slightly puzzled - the security team decided to open the bag and investigate the suspected “device”.

Out came Maude.

To their credit, the security staff remained polite throughout, and once the situation became clear, there was plenty of laughter. Maude responded appropriately with a cheerful “Yiehoo” when the chief inspector pressed his stomach.

Nothing exploded.

After a routine spectrophotometric test for traces of plastic explosives, we were cleared to proceed.

An Unexpected Upgrade

We continued from Frankfurt aboard one of the world’s largest passenger aircraft—an Airbus A380-800.

An unexpected bonus.

Running the Gauntlet in Johannesburg (chaotic transfer)

In Johannesburg, things became more hectic. We had to run for our connecting flight - without boarding passes.

Fortunately, this was taken rather lightly by security:

“No boarding passes?”
“Just hurry - you won’t make it otherwise.”

Even when the alarm sounded (my phone still in my pocket), the response was the same:

“Go, go!”

Boarding passes were issued at the gate, and we made it onto the flight at the very last moment.

The Missing Luggage

Our luggage, however, did not!

Relief came only about two hours ago, when the final bag finally arrived - just 14 hours before leaving Windhoek.

Our son resting with Maude after long flight
Windhoek, July 2012.

[In Danish]

Bamse truer flysikkerheden:

Flyveturen København – Frankfurt – Johannesburg – Windhoek forløb for så vidt uproblematisk. Dog skabte, skulle det efterfølgende vise sig, Lausts maskot ”Maude” lettere panik i Frankfurts security. Da Lausts håndbagage kørte gennem skanneren gik alt i stå, og den lille rygsæk kørte frem og tilbage gennem skanneren utallige gange, mens adskillige mere og mere betydningsfulde officials blev tilkaldt for at tolke skannerfundet. Vores sluse blev lukket, og alle andre passagerer i køen gennet over til andre sluser, mens to bevæbnede politifolk hold øje med os. Rygsækken fortsatte ind og ud af skanneren et par gange mere, men til slut har vores familie formentlig set tilpas fredelige og lettere undrende ud, og de besluttede sig for at åbne håndbagagen og lede efter ”bomben”. Op af tasken dukkede Lausts maskot Maude. Det skal siges til security folkenes ros, at de forblev venlige under hele seancen, og der var plads til store grin, da Maude dukkede op af rygsækken. Han kvitterede på passende vis med et ”Yiehoo”, da chefinspektøren trykkede ham på maven. Og intet sprang i luften. Efter en obligatorisk spektofotometrisk undersøgelse for plastisk sprængstof slap vi ud af saksen, og vi kunne forsætte ud af Frankfurt på vores videre færd i verdens største passagerfly. En Airbus 880-800. Det var en uventet bonus. I Johannesburg måtte vi løbe til den næste gate uden boardingpas. Det tog de heldigvis ikke så tungt i Johannesburg, da vi sagde vi ikke havde noget, og det var heller ikke det store problem da alarmen gik, da jeg i forvirringen havde min mobil i lommen: Bare skynd jer sagde security folkene, ellers når i det ikke. Ved gaten lavede de et bordingpas, og vi kom alle med i sidste øjeblik. Det gjorde bagagen naturligvis ikke, så lettelsen var stor for ca. 2 timer siden, da den sidste taske dukkede op her ca. 14 timer før vi forlader Windhoek.]

Planning an Overland Safari with Safari Drive in Namibia and Botswana

Preparations in London

In December 2011, I met Meregan Turner in London. She runs Safari Drive, a British specialist tour operator that has organised self-drive safaris in southern Africa since 1993.

Safari Drive
Vores rejsearrangør / sparringspartner

Meregan is a former professional show jumper and racing driver. She has lived in South Africa and travelled extensively across the continent. The meeting in London gave us an opportunity to assess each other - important, given that an overland expedition in Africa represents a significant investment, with full payment required prior to departure.

I left with a strong impression of both Meregan and Safari Drive. We discussed potential routes through southern Africa in detail - it was refreshing to meet someone equally enthusiastic about Africa.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour, Namibia, 2009
Before the tide comes in…!

Why Safari Drive?

Safari Drive is particularly known for its well-equipped Land Rover Defender fleet and strong safety standards:

• Satellite phone
• GPS navigation
• 24-hour assistance, including air rescue
• Comprehensive safety briefing on arrival
• Off-road driving course before vehicle handover
• Fully equipped vehicles (extra fuel tanks, water storage, fridge, and more)

Within days, we would see whether preparation matched reality.

Solitaire, Khomas Region, Namibia, 2009
It pays to be well equipped…!

Route overview

Sunset, near Madisa Campsite
Namibia, 2012.

Namibia: Desert Landscapes and Remote Wilderness

• Windhoek & River Crossing Lodge – Arrival, briefing, and 4x4 training
• Spitzkoppe & Damaraland – Granite peaks, rock art, and remote campsites
• Khowarib & Purros (Kaokoland) – Harsh, isolated terrain and Himba communities
• Etambura Camp (Kunene Region) – Deep into one of Namibia’s most remote regions

These early stages of the journey take us into true wilderness, with long driving days, minimal infrastructure, and a strong reliance on navigation and self-sufficiency.

Dolomite Camp, Etosha National Park
Namibia 2012.

Etosha National Park and Northern Namibia

• Etosha National Park – One of Africa’s premier wildlife reserves, known for its vast salt pan and high concentration of game
• Onguma Campsite – Game viewing along the eastern edge
• Bushmanland (Tsumkwe) – Cultural encounters with San communities

Etosha offers classic safari experiences, while Bushmanland provides insight into traditional ways of life in southern Africa.

Our houseboat "Kubu Queen"
Okavango Delta, Botswana 2012

Botswana: Delta, Desert and Wildlife

• Okavango Delta (houseboat expedition from Shakawe) – A unique way to explore one of Africa’s most extraordinary ecosystems
• Guma Lagoon – Birdlife and river landscapes
• Central Kalahari Game Reserve – Vast open pans, remote camps, and predator territory
• Makgadikgadi National Park – Salt pans and stark desert beauty
• Moremi Game Reserve & Chobe National Park – High-density wildlife areas

Note: Campsites in Botswana are unfenced—wildlife moves freely through camp. Expect lions, elephants, and particularly bold baboons.

Driving conditions range from deep sand to flooded tracks, requiring constant attention and proper 4x4 technique.

We survived Devil’s Pool at Victoria Falls, 2012

Zambia: Journey’s End

• Crossing at Kazungula into Zambia
• Stay at Waterberry Lodge near Victoria Falls

The journey concludes along the Zambezi River, within reach of one of the world’s most spectacular natural wonders—first seen by David Livingstone in 1855.

The journey comes to a halt with a broken fan belt,
near Madisa Camp, Namibia, 2012.

Reflections on Planning an Overland Safari

Planning a self-drive safari across southern Africa is a balance between logistics, risk management, and adventure. Distances are vast, infrastructure limited, and conditions unpredictable. Yet this is precisely what makes such journeys compelling.

From London meeting rooms to remote desert tracks, the transition is dramatic—but essential. Preparation is everything.

Detailed itinerary:

Below is the final overland itinerary we developed together—a five-week self-drive safari through Namibia, Botswana and Zambia:

Sun 15 July Arrive Windhoek, overnight River Crossing, Windhoek

Upon arrival in Windhoek you will be met and transferred to River Crossing, which is located just 15 minutes away from the centre of Windhoek. Situated at the top of a hill, it offers superb views of mountains in one direction and Windhoek in the other. The area surrounding the lodge is home to a variety of plains game including zebra, giraffe, wildebeest, and eland. The restaurant area is great to relax in, with views that will make any sundowner remarkable. There are just en-suite 20 bungalows here, each nearly decorated and welcoming. Here you can enjoy scenic drives, see the grounds on foot or for the experience rider, participate in morning or afternoon horse rides. There is also a wellness centre at the lodge with a spa that offers a range of massages.

Mon 16 July River Crossing, Windhoek
This morning you will be collected and taken to our base where you will be briefed on the vehicle, equipment, driving conditions, route and safety issues. Please expect this briefing to take at least two hours. You will also be asked to sign the safety affirmation form to confirm that you have read and understood all the contents of the Safari Drive Hand Book. You will also be directed to the best places to buy your fresh food stocks and other items you may need before departing Windhoek the following morning. After your briefing you will drive to the Windhoek Country Club Hotel reception (Duane will give you directions at your briefing) where you will be met by Be-local at a time to be confirmed. Please expect this essential 4x4 training to take a couple of hours.

Tue 17 July Spitzkoppe Camp, Southern Damaraland
Today you will drive to Spitzkoppe, which is one of the most beautiful areas in Namibia, consisting of an imposing granite rock formation set in the plains. You can walk in the area and climb up to Bushman’s Paradise, a small basin tucked between the domes of rock, where you can view the rock paintings done by Bushman of the past and gaze at the amazing view. There are a number of campsites in the area to choose from and most have basic facilities, fire places and refuse bins etc. There are plenty of locals willing to guide you for a small sum but we recommend using them once and then spend your time carefully clambering around the rocks - there are lots of paintings to discover. Here you will be camping, allow for a 4 hour drive.

Wed 18-19 July Madisa Campsite, Damaraland
Located in the heart of Damaraland, close to Twyfelfontein, the Petrified Forest and the famous rock paintings, you will find Madisa Campsite (meaning hello or welcome in the Damara / Nama language) which is a newly built campsite and a lovely place to stay. There are only 10 shaded campsites, each with excellent facilities; running water, braai and washing up facilities there is also a swimming pool. Madisa is heavily involved with the local community and has started projects such the Etameko Brilliant Boards project which provides learning boards to expose children aged between six and 15 years to a formal education and the Iyaloo Project which uses materials from used items of furniture and discarded building materials in an enterprise development program. Here you stay in a campsite. Allow for a 4 hour drive.

Fri 20-21 July Khowarib Lodge Campsite
Today you head South again to to Khowarib Lodge which nestles on the banks of the Hoanib river in the magnificent Khowarib Gorge in north west Namibia. The lodge has canvas chalets projecting out from the riverbank on stilts over the river bed providing unrivaled, shady views of the cliffs opposite. On the fringe of Kaokoland, the lodge offers a perfect jumping off point to explore the remote north west of the country, either independently or on one of the lodge's extensive guided tours. The immediate surrounding area of Damaraland has many rich and interesting activities, including desert adapted elephant and Himba settlements, within easy reach. Here you stay in a campsite. Allow for a full days drive.

Near Sandwich Harbour, Namibia, 2009
Almost no landmarks to navigate by!

Sun 22-23 July Purros Campsite, Ngatutunge Pamwe, Kaokoland
Today you need to rise super early to take the very long and dusty drive north to Purros Campsite in southern Kaokoland. Purros is a wonderful and remote spot rarely visited. The campsite is set under trees in this spectacular desert area. There is water for showers and flush loos and the Himba family who run the camp will sell you firewood and take you on walks into the surrounding hills. Here you camp but will need to book and pay on arrival. Allow for a full days drive.  From Khowarib you will drive north through Sesfontein. There is a sign to the campsite, which is 150 km north of Sesfontein. The camp is not that easy to find and, before you cross the river in the tiny village of Purros, you turn right and drive along the river bank. You have to cross the river bed to get to the camp so great care must be taken if there has been rain or if there is likely to be any, as vehicles can be easily bogged down and be lost in the flash floods that appear out of nowhere.

Tue 24 July Etambura Camp, Orupembe
Today you continue on your journey further into the wonderfully remote and simply stunning scenery of the Kunene region. You again need to expect for a very long days drive stopping for a picnic lunch along the way. You continue along the DR3707 to Orupembe. You may need the villagers at Purros Campsite to assist with directions to find this road as it is not as straight-forward as you might think! Once at Orupembe, a tiny town characterised by one single shop, you head to the lovely a recently finished Etambura Camp. The camp has been built in conjunction, and is run by, the local Himba and Herero people and while it is staffed for your assistance you may not have any english speaking help. There are five canvas & thatch en-suite rooms, each with its own unique and breathtaking view out from the mountain top. There is hot water and a solar charging bank for your cameras or lap-tops, but the real beauty of this camp lies in its simplicity and symbiosis with the surrounding terrain. You stay here in en-suite rooms on a self catering basis. Allow for a full days drive.

Wed 25-26 July Etambura Camp, Orupembe
You remain based here for a second and third day. From here you can explore the area, visit a nearby abandoned marble mine and spend time in a semipermanent Himba settlement. Meet the head-lady, or local school teacher.

Near Sandwich Harbour, Namibia, 2009
Thea and Laust playing in the sand :-)

Fri 27 July Opuwo Country Lodge Campsite
This morning you will drive to Opuwo and on to Opuwo Country Lodge where you will camp. There are 10 camping spots available all with their own BBQ spot as well as an electrical point. Wood is for sale. There is running hot and cold water and washbasins where pots and pans can be washed. You should be able to re-fuel here too, depending upon fuel availability of course. Here you will camp, allow for a 7 hour drive.

Sat 28-29 July Dolomite Camp, West Etosha
Today you will drive south to the brand new Dolomite Camp which is located in Western Etosha National Park. You must drive through the Galton Gate which is the western entrance at Ozonjuiti m’Bari and is only open to guests staying at this lodge. This camp is the most recent addition to the Namibian Wildlife Resort collection (completed in June 2011) and is built up on a rocky outcrop overlooking some lovely plains. Each of the chalets have their own viewing deck and are completely private, although neatly linked with pathways that wind around the rocks. Guided game drives are available here, giving you exclusive access to the game in the western side of the park. Here you will stay on a bed and breakfast basis in a Bush Chalet. Allow for a 3 hour drive.

MORE INFORMATION ON ETOSHA NATIONAL PARK
Regarded by safari aficionados as one of Africa's greatest wildlife sanctuaries, Etosha National Park - dominated by its enormous shimmering salt pan - is an area of wild savannah and open woodland, and is home to a fantastic array of animals. Etosha National Park measures 4 590 square kilometres, while all the pans cover more than 5 100 square kilometres. Despite its arid appearance, the park is packed with an eclectic mix of familiar faces such as elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard and zebra as well as the desert specialists like springbok and the handsome gemsbok. It's also one of the best places in southern Africa to spot the endangered cheetah and black rhino not to mention rare antelope species like black-faced impala, Damara dik dik and roan antelope, plus there's a bird count of 340 species (an interesting blend of savannah, wetland and semi-desert birds).

Etosha National Park, Namibia, 2009
We were heading the other way - past the cars!

Mon 30 July Onguma Campsite, Etosha National Park
This evening you will stay at Onguma Bush Camp Campsite. Situated just outside the Von Lindequist Gate on the eastern edge of Etosha National Park the 5 private sites make a great place to relax while taking game drives into the park. Each site has its own braai area, bathroom and washing areas. The acacia trees offer much needed shade in the hotter seasons. The neighboring Onguma guest house has a pool and restaurant which are both open to campers. Guided trips are also on offer at the camp and are well worth it. Here you will be staying in a campsite. Allow for a full days game through Etosha National Park.

Tue 31 July Mukuri Village Campsite Bushmanland Tsumkwe
You drive to Bushmanland to camp at one of the locally run campsites in this interesting region. The best of these is Mukuri. The camp which is in the shade of a huge Baobab Tree has no facilities but is kept clean and wood is provided. A lovely Bushman by the name of Naici (pronounced Naychi) who speaks good English will greet you. He will arrange any activity you wish to do. You can go gathering food and herbs with the women of the village or tracking and hunting with the men. The woman make lovely and interesting jewellery which can be bought directly from them. The Bushmen in this area have been given the land where they can live their lives in the age old traditions if they wish. Here you will be camping, allow for a 6 hour drive.


Wed 01-03 Aug Kubu Queen House Boat, Shakawe
The very best alternative to an expensive camp in the heart of the Okavango Delta is this wonderful and genuine house boat based out of Shakawe on the Okavango River. The Kubu Queen is a small, privately owned wooden boat rebuilt by its owner Greg Thompson. Greg and Kate lovingly rebuilt the boat after it had sunk out of neglect and have now created a comfortable private lodge on the water. The boat has three double rooms, two small doubles a super shower, separate loo and an open air galley, all of which are situated on the main deck. Upstairs are the dining and sitting room areas where the bridge doubles as the bar! In the stern are two single beds open to and above the river and a stunning place to sleep. The boat travels into the heart of the Delta where each night you moor on an island where you can go on guided walks. A big fire is built on the banks each night so if you fancy an hour or two on land it is a good place to sit. Greg is a top river guide and his bird knowledge is excellent. Hippos, crocodile and birds are the main attractions but game can be seen when you travel deeper into the delta. The boat has two large flat bottomed motor boats for birding, fishing and trips into the smaller channels of the Delta. A minimum of three nights on this lovely boat is a totally wonderful and different way to see the Delta and witness African River life at is best. Your stay here is on a totally exclusive and fully inclusive basis. However all drinks are extra.

Etosha Pan, Namibia, 2009
Laust out exploring more than 100 km² of mud
The scale is extraordinary!

“Why, that's enough for a whole meal!” said the Princess. “But where do we get the sauce from?”
“I have that in my pocket,” replied Clumsy Hans. “In fact, I have so much I can afford to spill some of it.” Then he poured a little of the mud from his pocket.
“I like that!” said the Princess. “You have an answer for everything, and you know how to speak. I'll take you for my husband. But do you know that everything we've said and are saying is written down and will be published in the paper tomorrow? Look over there, and you'll see in each window three clerks and an old alderman, and that alderman is the worst of all; he doesn't understand anything!”

She said this only to frighten him, but all the clerks chuckled with delight and spurted blots of ink on the floor.
“Oh, so these are the gentlemen!” said Clumsy Hans. “Then I must give the alderman the best thing I have.” Then he turned out his pockets and threw the wet mud in the face of the alderman.

“Cleverly done!” said the Princess. “I could never have done that, but I'll learn in time!”

So Clumsy Hans was made a king, with a wife and a crown, and sat on a throne. And we had this story straight from the alderman's newspaper—but that is one you can't always depend upon.”

H. C. Andersen 1855 (kilde)

Sat 04 Aug Guma Lagoon
Guma Lagoon Camp is situated on the northwestern edge of the spectacular Okavango Delta wetland system. Hidden amidst a grove of beautiful ebony and fig trees on the banks of Guma Lagoon, the camp is a haven for fishermen and birdwatchers alike. Here you will be staying in a campsite.

A NOTE ABOUT THE CAMPSITES,  BOTSWANA
The campsites in Botswana National Parks have limited facilities, there is no fuel or shops at all so you must be totally self sufficient. In Moremi, Savute & northern Chobe the camps have all been recently refurbished and have new, clean & well maintained ablution blocks with running water and sometimes even hot showers!. You must be prepared to have game in the camp with you as there are no fences to keep animals out. Baboons can be a particular nuisance, they will steal from your camp and from inside your vehicle so keep doors closed and don’t leave food unattended, the
baboons are very bold and can be aggressive. You must expect bad single track roads, deep deep sand and in places black cotton mud and deep surface water which must not be crossed.

Sun 05-06 Aug Grasslands Safari Lodge Campsite
Take the long drive to Grassland Safari Lodge which is located on the western edge of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, some 80km north east of Ghanzi. Apart from the lodge, there is a very pretty campsite about 4kms away across the bush. Access to the swimming pool at the lodge and activities, are included in the camping fee. There are two excellent reasons for taking the long and dusty drive to Grasslands. The first is the totally amazing and the once in a lifetime opportunity to join the San Bushmen on a food gathering excursion. You will begin to understand a little about how these extraordinary people are able to live sustainably in this harsh environment, how they can read the Grasslandssigns of nature and determine animals behaviour and movement from tracks and spoor. The whole experience is done with tact and a huge amount of pride from the San themselves who are very proud to share their ancient culture with their guests. It is also possible to visit the San village and see traditional cooking and crafts on longer stays. Your hosts are Neeltjie de Graaff-Bowen and her husband. Neeltjie speaks fluent Naro (Bushman) as she was bought up with many of the people who now live on the ranch and loves and understands the San from the bottom of her heart. You will see this in the time you spend with her and her Bushman friends. While here you will also learn about the Bowen’s rescue work with lions and wild dogs in the Kalahari region’s farmlands. You will see first hand how rogue and orphaned animals are saved from almost certain death, before being moved to more suitable locations, thereby protecting them and conserving the future of their species. This work is a huge burden on their life and resources as it is not possible to find safe homes for many of the lions. They had 5 prides totaling 29 lions at the last visit but all are in huge enclosures and are well and happy. The 19 wild dogs will find new homes slightly easier. For riders horse trails can also be arranged with a bush lunch. Here you will be staying in the campsite. Activities are extra. Allow 6 hours drive.


Tue 07-08 Aug Sunday Pan, Central Kalahari Game ReserveFrom Grasslands head to the Tsau Gate. You then drive to the Sunday Pan Campsites which lie in the northern sector of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve just north of Deception Pan. Next to Sunday Pan is Leopard Pan and both of these are fairly large pans. There are three pitches at Sunday Pan and one at Leopard Pan they are all nestled in the edge of the bush close to the main open pan area, all pitches have fire pits. The lions in the region have been observed by man rather too much and thus have little fear so please be careful. You stay here in a campsite, allow for a 6 hour drive.

Thu 09-10 Aug Khumaga Campsite, Makgadikgadi National Park Today you drive to the National Park Campsite on the edge of Makgadikgadi National Park called Khumaga. The campsite has good facilities and is only a short drive from the main road and the park. Here you will be camping in a campsite, allow for 4 hour drive.

Sat 11 Aug Third Bridge, Moremi Wildlife Reserve Drive through Moremi to stay at the most popular of the Moremi Camps at Third Bridge. Set in trees and across a bridge, this pretty campsite is regularly visited by all types of game including lions that cross the bridge and can come right in to the camp. The baboons here can be a big problem so you must be very careful to keep everything shut in the vehicle as they will steal anything they can carry. Here you will be camping, allow for a 5 hour drive.

Sun 12 Aug Third Bridge, Moremi Wildlife Reserve and Boat trip Today you can take a boat trip. Stay here for a second night. You can do a three hour boat trip into the Delta today.

NB: PLEASE BE AWARE! YOU MUST READ CAREFULLY THE HAND BOOK PAGE 51 ABOUT CROSSING WATER.

Mon 13 Aug Savute Campsite, Chobe National ParkThis morning you will continue north through Chobe to the Savute Campsite which is located next to the Savute Park Rangers Post. Facilities have been upgraded with showers and loos and the campsite is protected by an elephant-proof embankment but it’s not great, the facilities are currently cleaned daily and you should be able to get hot water too! The campsite itself has individual sites with braai pits and is generally shady. However, the ground can be dusty later in the dry season. You also need to keep an eye out for the resident bull elephants who have become rather a problem searching the campsites for food! The area is interesting with plenty of game to be seen at the right time of year on the vast open plains that so typify this area. Savute is situated deep in the Chobe National Park in an area known for its rock paintings, its large hyena and lion populations and for the old bull elephants that stay near the waterholes. With the Savute channel now flowing year round the game here is spectacular and the area lush and green in places. Here you will be camping, allow for a 6 hour drive.

14-15 Aug Ihaha Campsite, Chobe RiverThis morning you will continue your journey north through Chobe National Park. You reach a new tar road at Kachikau which significantly cuts down your traveling time and allows you more time to game drive along the Chobe riverfront. You head to Ihaha campsite which is locates right on the banks of the Chobe River. There are no longer any fences around these sites and game will find its way into the camp, including some very noisy and naughty baboons! You spend the night camping on the banks of the Chobe River in this idyllic spot. This part of the park boasts one of the highest concentrations of elephant in Africa as well as a wide variety of other wildlife, which moves onto the flood plains to drink. There is an ablution block and the camping areas are secluded. Here you will be camping, allow for a 4 hour drive.

Thu 16-17 Aug Waterberry Lodge, Livingstone, ZambiaToday you cross the border into Zambia via the ferry at Kazangula and progress to Livingstone where you stay at Waterberry Lodge. The border crossing into Zambia can be quite an experience and this border can be particularly busy so it is really important to remain calm and be polite! We recommend you get to the border as early as possible as it can get very busy later in the day. You drive to Waterberry Lodge, where you will hand over the vehicle and give a de-brief of your trip. Waterberry Lodge is located on the banks of the Zambezi River, amongst Mopane woodland, Waterberry Lodge is only 45 minutes from Livingstone town and Victoria Falls. With only seven chalets, some overlooking the river and others overlooking the Dam, each is secluded and has en-suite facilities. They serve delicious meals in the main lodge on the balcony, overlooking the river and the chef is very good and creates delicious salads and fresh food. Your hosts, Gail & Kevin will look after you brilliantly and there is such a homely feeling around the lodge that you will feel very welcome. When walking around the lodge, you need to be very careful of hippo which will come through camp on a regular basis. In particular, the birds at Waterberry are stunning and many species can be spotted in the grounds of the lodge. You will debrief on your vehicle this afternoon. You stay here on a full board basis including all meals and one in house activity.

Sat 18 Aug Depart
Today you will be transferred to the airport for your onward flight.

Pia and the pilot in the air over Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, 1997

[Original tekst på dansk: I december 2011 holdt jeg et møde i London med Meregan Turner, som driver Safari Drive. Det er et engelsk specialrejsebureau, som har lavet "self-drive" safarier i det sydlige Afrika siden 1993.

Meregan er tidligere professionel springrytter og racerkører (!) Hun har boet i Sydafrika, og rejst Afrika tyndt på kryds og tværs. Mødet i London var en god lejlighed til at se hinanden lidt an. Ikke mindst da det er en større investering at tage på ekspedition i Afrika, og da hele beløbet forfalder før afrejsen. På mødet i London fik jeg et godt indtryk af Meregan og firmaet Safari Drive. Vi diskuterede livligt og engageret spændende ruter gennem det sydlige Afrika. Det var herligt at være sammen med en, der er mindst lige så begejstret for Afrika :-)

Safari Drive er især kendt for deres meget veludstyrede Land Rover Defenders. Herudover har de ry for at have et højt sikkerhedsniveau, bl.a.:

• Satellit telefon
• Satellit navigation
• 24 timers assistance inklusive "air rescue"
• Sikkerhedsbriefing ved ankomst
• Kørekursus før udlevering af Land Rover
• Alle tænkelige faciliteter i bilen, f.eks ekstra brændstoftank, vandtank, køleskab...
• Og meget mere

Om få dage får vi "syn for sagen", når forberedelserne skal stå deres prøve.]

Before Departure for Africa – Reflections on Travel

Why Africa and reflections on travel, memory, and an overland journey

In his first travel book, Skyggebilleder (1831), the Danish author H. C. Andersen describes travel in words that still resonate today:

”Oh travel, travel! It is the happiest of all destinies! And therefore we all travel; everything travels throughout the universe. Even the poorest man owns the winged horse of thought, and when he grows weak and old, death takes him on the great journey we all must make. The waves roll from coast to coast, the clouds sail across the vast sky, and birds fly over fields and meadows. We all travel, even the dead in their quiet graves, carried with the Earth around the Sun. ‘Travel’ is a fixed idea throughout the universe—but we humans are children, and we even play at travelling in the midst of the great natural journey of ourselves and all things".

H. C. Andersen, Skyggebilleder, 1831

Trip to Namibia, near Bagatelle Guest Farm, 2009
What lies around the next corner?

Setting Out Once Again

Now it is time to travel again. Two adults, aged 43 and 45, and two children, aged 12 and 13. Pia, Troels, Laust, and Thea. And indeed, as Andersen writes, travel truly is “the happiest of destinies.”

We are privileged—especially when seen in relation to the people we are once again about to visit. Ahead of us lies a five-week overland expedition in a specially equipped Land Rover Defender, covering 4,500 km through remote regions of Namibia and Botswana, before crossing the border into Livingstone in Zambia.

Five weeks filled with new, unknown corners every single day. And how fitting it is to end the journey where David Livingstone in 1855 first laid eyes on what is often described as the world’s greatest waterfall.

Why Africa?

"Camps make their own deep impression on the memory, as if one had lived there for a long time; sometimes one remembers for years a single curve of one’s wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as though it had been a sign of importance in one’s life"

Karen Blixen, Den Afrikanske Farm, 1937 (Source)

Troels & Pia. Camp in Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe, 1997
The most beautiful campsite we have ever known?

Pia and I will never forget our campsite in the Chimanimani Mountains of Zimbabwe in 1997. It was our third wedding anniversary. After arriving at “base camp” in our small Mazda 323, we climbed the mountainside toward the Chimanimani Plateau at nearly 2,000 metres—racing against the fading light.

Darkness closed in quickly. The landscape became increasingly strange and eerie, yet at the same time enchantingly beautiful. Imagine a Salvador Dalí mirror image of trees and swans Dali mirror image Watching our footing carefully because of crawling creatures, we also struggled with the growing fear of losing the trail, marked only by occasional stone cairns. Not a comforting thought.

We finally arrived in complete darkness. I pitched the tent while Pia illuminated the scene with a torch—keeping watch for “large cats” at the same time. We had no idea what surrounded us, but we found a relatively flat, if stony, place to sleep. Exhausted, we fell into a deep sleep, undisturbed even by the sounds of the night.

Morning brought release. We woke to the most magical view we have ever experienced. Perhaps that alone is reason enough.

Or perhaps it is because Africa draws you in. The landscapes, the people, the smells, the crowds—and the emptiness. It is as if this continent holds everything and nothing at the same time.

People, Trust, and Experience

Karen Blixen also wrote:

"They [the natives] were never reliable, but they were magnificently sincere"

She was not naïve—and neither are we. We have encountered unreliable people in Africa and have been deceived on earlier journeys. Sometimes it was likely a matter of personal or family survival, and one might ask whether that truly counts as deception.

More often, however—and seemingly in contrast to Blixen’s experience—we have encountered people who were both sincere and reliable. I recall Ghana in 1989, when my close friend Thomas and I were stranded in a small mountain village near the border with Togo. There was nowhere to stay, yet a poor family living in a small hut insisted—despite our protests—that we take their home for the night while they moved in with neighbours. Their dwelling was probably the most valuable thing they owned.

I must admit that I am not always (if ever) as generous a host myself.

Why Namibia and Botswana?

Thea, aged 10. Aus Mountains, Namibia, 2009
Sunset over the Sperrgebiet—the forbidden diamond area

Pros Namibia

• High level of safety when travelling with children; low crime
• A fantastic previous journey in 2009
• Vast, empty landscapes of desert and mountains
• Excellent gravel roads (with the exception of Kaokoland, where we will be challenged)
• Reasonable prices compared with other safari destinations
• Safe and straightforward wilderness camping

Cons Namibia

• Some (incomprehensibly, to us) find the country monotonous
• Limited “green savannah” outside the rainy season
• Wildlife widely dispersed during dry periods
• Cold nights, sometimes below freezing—winter in Namibia, summer in Denmark
• Poor shopping opportunities, according to our teenage daughter

Pros Botswana

• The Okavango Delta—perhaps the most beautiful place in Africa?
• Reportedly high safety levels for family travel
• Abundant wildlife, including the “Big Five”
• Many highly diverse national parks

Cons Botswana

• The price
• The price
• The price
• Poor roads—when roads exist at all
• We will find out soon enough.

Why a Travel Blog? That’s a strange idea…

This year, I finally—probably as one of the last people in Denmark—created a Facebook account. The tipping point was a tropical medicine course in London with 70 participants from all over the world. One of the lecturers, an elderly gentleman, announced that he had created a Facebook group so we could stay in touch once dispersed across the globe. He casually asked whether anyone in the auditorium did not have Facebook.

Indeed there was: a retired Indian professor—and myself.

It was a humbling experience (although I secretly felt a little proud of my stubbornness). Hence this blog: an attempt, for once, to stay slightly ahead of the curve—to be “young with the young.” And perhaps also a way to preserve memories of the journey for the future.

If a family member, friend, or fellow traveller enjoys following along—at a safe distance—or if other readers are planning or dreaming of a journey to Africa, then you are all very welcome on board.

P.S. Internet access is (fortunately) poor in the desert, so updates may be infrequent. We are collecting experiences.

— Troels, blog author

Troels, Kulala Wilderness Camp near the red dunes of Sossusvlei, Namibia, 2009
You take what you can get—water is scarce in the desert ;-)

    

In Danish:

I sin første rejsebog "Skyggebilleder" fra 1831 beskriver H. C. Andersen rejsen på følgende måde: ”O reise! Reise! Det er dog den lykkeligste Lod! Og derfor reise vi ogsaa Alle; Alt Reiser i det hele Univers! Selv den fattigste Mand eier Tankens vingede Hest, og bliver den svag og gammel, tager Døden ham dog med paa Reisen, den store Reise, vi alle reise. Bølgerne rulle fra Kyst til Kyst; Skyerne seile hen ad den store Himmel og Fuglen flyver med over Mark og Enge. Vi reise Alle, selv de Døde i deres stille Grave, flyve med Jorden rundt om Solen. Ja, ”reise”, det er en fix Idee hos det hele Univers, men vi Mennesker ere Børn, vi vil endogsaa lege ”At rejse” midt under vores og Tingenes store naturlig Reise". H. C. Andersen, Skyggebilleder, 1831 (kilde) 

Billede

• Tur til Namibia, nær Bagatelle Guest Farm, 2009. Bag næste hjørne? 

Nu skal vi på rejse! To voksne på 43 og 45 år og to børn på 12 og 13 år. Pia, Troels, Laust og Thea. Og det er ganske vist, som H. C. Andersen skriver det, "den lykkeligste lod"! Vi er privilegerede, ikke mindst set i forhold til den befolkning vi endnu engang besøger. Fem ugers ekspedition i en specialudstyret Land Rover Discovery. I alt 4500 km. på egen hånd gennem svært tilgængelige egne af Namibia og Botswana for til sidst at krydse grænsen til Livingstone i Zambia. Fem uger fuld af nye ukendte hjørner hver eneste dag. Og hvor passende at slutte rejsen der hvor David Livingstone i 1855 så, hvad der betegnes som, verdens største vandfald! Hvorfor lige Afrika? "Lejrpladser sætter sig på en egen måde fast i erindringen, som om man havde levet der i lange tider, og man husker undertiden længe en enkelt kurve af sine vognspor i græsset på sletten, som om det var et tegn, der havde haft betydning i ens liv." Karen Blixen, Den Afrikanske Farm, 1937 (kilde) 

 Billede

• Troels & Pia. Lejr i Chimanimani bjergene, Zimbabwe 1997 Det smukkeste sted vi har slået lejr? 

Pia og jeg glemmer aldrig vores lejrplads i Chimanimani bjergene i Zimbabwe i 1997. Det var vores 3 års bryllupsdag. Efter ankomst til "basecamp" i vores lille Mazda 323, forcerede vi bjergsiden op mod Chimanimani plateauet i ca. 2 km.´s højde i et kapløb med tiden. Det blev mørkere og mørkere, og landskabet fremstod mere og mere underligt og uhyggeligt, men på samme tid fortryllende smukt. Forestil dig Salvador Dalì´s spejlbillede af træer og svaner. Af hensyn til kryb var det vigtigt at blive ved med at se, hvor vi satte hænder og fødder. Samtidig strejfede tanken om at fare vild os, hver gang vi spejdede efter den næste stenvarde, som skulle markere stien. Ikke et behageligt perspektiv. Til sidst nåede vi frem i bælragende mørke. Jeg satte teltet op, mens Pia lyste for mig med en lommelygte og samtidig holdt udkik efter "store kattedyr"! Vi havde absolut ingen ide om omgivelserne, her hvor vi var endt efter vores vandring i mørket, men det lykkedes at finde et nogenlunde plant, omend stenet, sted at sætte teltet op. Vi faldt hurtigt i dyb søvn efter strabadserne på bjerget, og end ikke dyrelydene kunne holde os vågne denne gang. Næste morgen kom forløsningen, da vi vågnede op til den mest fortryllende udsigt, vi nogensinde havde set. Måske bare derfor... Eller fordi... Afrika drager. Naturen, befolkningen, lugtene, menneskemylderet og tomheden. Det er som om dette kontinent har alt og intet på samme tid. Karen Blixen skriver i den Den Afrikanske Farm ; "De [indfødte] var aldrig pålidelige, men de var på en storslået måde oprigtige". Karen Blixen var ikke blåøjet, og vi er heller ikke naive. Vi har mødt upålidelige mennesker i Afrika, og vi er blevet snydt på tidligere rejser. Nogle gange handlede det nok mest om egen eller familiens overlevelse, og så kan man vel diskutere, om det var snyd? Langt de fleste gange har vi nu, tilsyneladende i modsætning til Karen Blixen, mødt såvel oprigtige som pålidelige mennesker. F.eks. i Ghana i 1989, hvor min gode ven Thomas og jeg strandede i en lille bjerglandsby nær grænsen til Togo. Der var igen steder at bo, men en fattig familie i en lille hytte insisterede på trods af vores protester på, at vi skulle overtage deres hjem for natten, mens de rykkede ind til nogle naboer. Deres bolig var formentlig den mest dyrebare ting, som de ejede. Jeg er desværre erkende, at jeg ikke altid (om nogensinde) er lige så gæstfri og imødekommende... 

Hvorfor lige Namibia og Botswana? 

Billede: 

• Thea, 10 år gammel. Aus bjergene, Namibia, 2009 Solnedgang over Sperrgebiet - det forbudte diamantområde. 

Der er mange gode grunde til at vi har valgt Namibia, som vi kender fra en tidligere rejse: Højt niveau af sikkerhed når man rejser med børn med kun beskeden kriminalitet Fantastisk tur til samme land i 2009 Storslåede øde vidder, bjerge og ørken Særdeles gode grusveje (dog ikke i Kaokoland, hvor vi bliver udfordret) Fornuftigt prisniveau sammenlignet med andre safari-destinationer Trygt og nemt at campere i naturen 

Ulemper Namibia: Nogle vil nok (helt uforståeligt for os :-) opleve landet som ensartet ørken og bjerge Der mangler den "grønne savanne", som de fleste forbinder med Afrika, bortset fra regntiden Dyrene er spredt over store områder i tørkeperioden og kan derfor være svære at få øje på Det er koldt om natten (ned til frysepunktet). Vinter i Namibia - sommer i Danmark Elendige shopping muligheder pointerer vores teenage datter! 

Årsager til at vælge Botswana: Okavango Deltaet - måske det smukkeste sted i Afrika? Angiveligt højt sikkerhedsniveau når man rejser med børn Mange vilde dyr "the big five" Mange meget forskelligartede nationalparker Det glæder vi os til at finde ud af... 

Ulemper Botswana: Prisen Prisen Prisen Dårlige grusveje (hvis der da er veje) Det finder vi tids nok ud af... 

Rejseblog: Det var da noget mærkeligt noget! I år fik jeg som formentlig en af de sidste i Danmark en facebook side. Dråben var en oplevelse på et tropemedicinsk kursus i London, hvor vi var 70 deltagere fra hele verden. En af underviserne, en ældre herre, bekendtgjorde under sin forelæsning, at han havde lavet en facebookgruppe for deltagerne. Så kunne vi holde kontakten ved lige, når vi efterfølgende ville blive spredt i alle dele af verden. Han spurgte lidt henkastet ex. auditorium, om der skulle være nogle af deltagerne, der endnu ikke havde en facebook? Ganske rigtigt, en pensioneret indisk professor... og undertegnede! Det var naturligvis en særdeles ydmygende oplevelse (selv om jeg i det skjulte var lidt stolt over min standhaftighed :-) Derfor! Denne blog er et forsøg på, for en gangs skyld, at være lidt mere på forkant med udviklingen -, at være ung med de unge! Nåå jaa, og så kunne det måske være en sjov måde at mindes rejsen på på et senere tidspunkt. Skulle der samtidig være en enkelt eller to i familien eller blandt vennerne, som syntes det er sjovt at være med på tur til Afrika - sådan lidt på sikker afstand -, så er det en ekstra bonus! Eller andre læsere af bloggen som planlægger eller drømmer om en tur til Afrika, så hjerteligt velkommen ombord alle sammen. Ps. Internetforbindelsen er (heldigvis) dårlig i ørkenen, så der kan gå langt mellem opdateringerne. Vi samler til hobe. /Troels 

Billede

• Troels, Kulala Wilderness Camp nær Sossusvlei´s røde klitter, Namibia 2009. Man må tage hvad man kan få - det er småt med vandforsyningerne i ørkenen!