Heading for Damaraland

Our camp at Madisa Campsite in Damaraland, sunset.
Namibia, 2024.

Our route on Tracks4Africa

Yesterday we left Swakopmund and Skeleton Coast heading for Damaraland, a name given to the north-central part of the former South West Africa, which later became Namibia, inhabited by the Damaras. 

Damaraland is characterized by its rugged terrain, dramatic landscapes, and rich cultural heritage. It´s  known for its scenic mountain ranges, including the Brandberg Mountain, which is the highest peak in Namibia. Leaving Swakopmund, we head north along Skeleton Coast. After Henties Bay, we follow C35 indland from the coast, turning northeast around Mt. Brandberg, the highest peak in Namibia. 

Along the route, we drowe in a desert environment with rocky outcrops and wide-open plains. The area is known for it´s unique geological formations such as e.g. the "Organ Pipes" (a series of vertical basalt columns) and the "Petrified Forest" (ancient tree trunks have turned to stone). We looked for the famous desert-adapted elephants, one of the region's most unique attractions. It is a population of desert-adapted elephants, which have evolved to survive in the harsh, arid environment. Last time we had an encounter with a desert elefant was in Kaokoland in 2012, where an elefant started to chase our Land Rover, see (link post).

We also looked for other wildlife along the route such as black rhinos, lions, giraffes, and various antelope species. We saw nice girrafes along the road, but the elephants were hiding.

The C35 road from Henties Bay to Uis was heavily corrugated (after tar part), African massage!

Madisa Campsite

Our campsite (no. 1), Madisa Camp,
Sunset, Namibia, 2024. 
You can see the shower/toilet tower.

We headed for Madisa Campsite, that we last visited in 2012 (Report Madisa 2012). Madisa Campsite is located in the heart of Damaraland. The campsite offers spacious camping areas with private ablutions build on stilts, hot water showers based on a donkey bioler, and flush toilets. We also have access to a communal boma areas where all guests can gather around the fire and braai (barbecue) and a swimming pool to relax after a long day of exploration.

We had reserved private campsite no. 1. It was completely secluded, located as the last spot on the right-hand side after crossing the dry riverbed past the reception. There was a huge shade tree in the middle, with tall cliffs along one side and an open view of the riverbed, where elephants, zebras, and giraffes might pass by. Just as we arrived, we noticed large cat tracks, but we never figured out what kind they were from. 

Wives enjoyed the view over
 the dry riverbed with G&T.
Madisa Camp, Namibia, 2024.

As the sun set, a friend and I climbed the nearby small rocky hill, while our wives enjoyed the view over the dry riverbed with G&T. We witnessed yet another incredible sunset. When it got dark, dinner consisted of grilled sausages and garlic bread cooked over the fire – a magical evening spent with good friends

Friend & I climbed the rocks next to campsite for sunset,
Madisa Camp, Namibia, 2024.

The Damaraland region is named after the Damara people, who have a rich cultural heritage and traditional lifestyle. It´s also famous for its ancient rock art, particularly at Twyfelfontein, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The petroglyphs here date back thousands of years and provide insight into the lives of early hunter-gatherers.

Now, we are waiting in Palmwag ready for the Etendeka Walking Trail Experience!

Madisa Campsite – Elephants, Giraffes and a Mechanic from Windhoek

Elephant encounter

Madisa Campsite, 19 July 2012

The campsite itself was fantastic. We were staying on the riverbank, where desert-adapted elephants wander along the dry riverbed. Occasionally, the elephants even wander into the campsite. We were instructed to talk to each other inside our tents if an elephant was standing outside, so that it would know we were there.

The following morning, 19 July, we were woken by Johan after a good night's sleep (despite dreams of elephants).

"Be ready in two minutes, elephants!" he shouted insistently. 

It was immediately clear that there was no such thing as academic quarter-hour here!

Two minutes later, my son and I were ready (my wife was in the shower and our daugther was still fast asleep). We jumped onto the back of Johan's pickup and raced off in pursuit of an elephant, which we caught up with after driving about 1–2 kilometres along the dry riverbed. An impressive sight!

Son and I off in pursuit of elephants on the back of
Johan's pickup with just two minutes' notice!
Near Madisa Campsite, Namibia 2012.

The rest of the day, we were stranded at the campsite while waiting for the mechanic from Windhoek. Several phone calls to Duane followed, putting pressure on him to get the problem sorted out. We wanted to make absolutely sure that the Land Rover would either be repaired or replaced that same day.

In the afternoon, Johan took us on a fantastic drive out onto the plains, where we encountered a herd of 11 giraffes and witnessed the most magnificent sunset over the Namib Desert.

Sunset over the Namib Desert – near Madisa Campsite,
on an excursion with Johan. Namibia 2012

unset on our way back to Madisa Campsite
Simply heavenly!!

Finally, at around 8 pm, our mechanic arrived, looking as though he had stepped straight out of a Tintin adventure. A seasoned white Namibian with a beard bigger than Father Christmas's!

He talked enthusiastically about the differences between various Land Rover engines while I held the torch for him in the darkness.

Various parts were replaced, and we were assured that the vehicle was now in perfect working order. There was apparently no reason for us to take the replacement Land Rover he had brought along.

This would turn out to be a major mistake the following day!!

While waiting for the mechanic,
we organise our luggage!
Madisa Campsite, Namibia 2012

The distinctive landmark of Madisa Campsite,
Namibia 2012.

Sunset excursion with Johan. Namibia 2012

Sunset excursion with Johan. Namibia 2012

Sunset excursion with Johan. Namibia 2012
Sun and daugther examining tracks

Sunset excursion with Johan. Namibia 2012

Update: In 2024, we had the pleasure of revisiting Madisa Campsite, this time with good friends. Read about our return visit and the excellent Campsite No. 1 at this link. Also, see new pictures.

The Car Breaks Down!

The Car Breaks Down and the Satellite Phone Comes into Use

On the way to Madisa Campsite, 18 July 2012

 

Is this where the engine is?
Namibia 2012

And so came our first challenge! Rather appropriately, Madisa means "come here if you need help" in the local language.

The problem was not the approximately 230-kilometre drive from Spitzkoppe to Madisa Campsite along small gravel roads via Uis. Just five kilometres from Madisa Campsite, the car suddenly lost all power, the alternator warning light came on, and at the same time, the temperature gauge shot up to maximum.

We managed to pull over to the side of the road and opened the bonnet. Not that it made much difference, as I am hardly an expert mechanic! However, even to someone with very limited mechanical knowledge, it was obvious that the cooling system was bubbling and hissing.

I checked the oil level, which was fine, and the coolant level, which was also fine.

On closer inspection, it turned out that the car could still be driven in "towing mode" in first and second gear at 5–10 kilometres per hour, provided you could actually get it moving without the engine cutting out.

Out came the satellite phone, and we immediately managed to contact Duane in Windhoek. Fortunately, we could still remember how to use it!

Duane recommended that we crawl the remaining five kilometres to Madisa Campsite in towing mode, while he would try to contact Johan Raubenheimer, who manages the campsite.

So off we crept in our now wounded and considerably less mighty Land Rover Discovery, eventually being shown to a campsite on the banks of the Huab River.

It was not particularly reassuring that our Land Rover, which was supposed to cover 4,500 kilometres, had broken down after just 450 kilometres.

Johan had an explanation:

The Land Rover is the British revenge on Africa (and now also on a family of four from Denmark)!

It subsequently turned out that the "gadget" responsible for tensioning the fan belt had broken, causing the belt itself, which runs through a maze of pulleys in the finest tradition of British engineering, to snap.

Further conversations with Duane in Windhoek via satellite phone eventually resulted in a mechanic being dispatched with a replacement Land Rover, making the 450-kilometre journey from Windhoek to Madisa.

A rather lonely place to break down.
Fortunately, only five kilometres from Madisa Campsite.
Namibia 2012

Some rather unusual road signs in Namibia

When we reached the campsite
Namibia 2012