Showing posts with label wilderness. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wilderness. Show all posts

Saturday, 22 August 2026

Outpost Safari Lodge – Our Own Luxury Hideaway in the Kalahari

 

Outpost Safari Lodge, On top of sand dune
Kalahari Desert, Namibia 2026


An Unexpected Detour


Five hours of driving south-east
through the Kalahari Desert
Namibai 2026


After five hours of driving south-east through the Kalahari Desert, repeatedly crossing the enormous north–south dune ridges, we are getting close to Outpost Safari Lodge.

We are going to stay here for four nights, but we have absolutely no idea what awaits us.

We have never been here before.

The lodge is situated in the far south-eastern part of Namibia, close to the area where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet, in the heart of the Kalahari. Outpost itself lies on more than around 16,000 hectares of Kalahari wilderness.

Our original plan was actually to drive directly to neigbouring Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, where my then 15-year-old son and I had an unforgettable father-and-son trip in 2015. We stayed in the remote Wilderness Cabins in the desert (link).

Kgalagadi is also where my wife and I had one of our most memorable 4x4 adventures in 2024, driving 214 kilometres of sandy tracks through the Kalahari dunes with a wonderful group of South Africans and an excellent guide on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail (link).

This time, however, everything in Kgalagadi was booked.

Even though I was online the very morning bookings opened.

Clearly, some people have better connections to SANParks than we do.


The Search for an Alternative

So I started looking for an alternative in the same area.

After quite a bit of searching, I came across the website of Outpost Safaris (link). It looked beautiful, it was in exactly the right area — but I had never heard of the place before.

Outpost describes itself as being located on more than 40,000 acres where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet, in the heart of the Kalahari Desert. The family behind the lodge has generations of roots in the Kalahari and describes its philosophy as making guests feel less like customers and more like part of the family.

It sounded promising.

Now we are about to find out.


Into the Unknown


Entrance gate, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We arrive at the entrance gate in the afternoon.

There is nobody there to meet us, presumably because our exact arrival time was uncertain.

In a way, this gives us an opportunity for a first little adventure.

We have received instructions from Outpost: engage four-wheel drive and “keep to the left of the track” towards the lodge.

It soon becomes obvious that we are entering what appears to be completely deserted territory.

The track is a narrow, wonderfully adventurous sandy trail, with the surrounding grass constantly trying to reclaim it. A surprisingly high ridge of sand runs down the middle, but fortunately it is soft enough not to cause any damage underneath the Hilux.

So off we go.

We don't meet a soul.

Well, almost.

A large group of sable antelope stands out in the open grassland, watching us carefully as we pass. We also see the occasional impala and springbok.


A large group of sable antelope
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


There is an extraordinary sense of solitude.

And, inevitably, I start thinking about what our strategy would be if we happened to take the wrong track.

There are occasional side tracks, and some are not particularly obvious.

Fortunately, we have GPS reception everywhere, Tracks4Africa downloaded on the phone and, as a final safety net, a satellite phone.

So even if we get completely lost, we know exactly where the blue dot is.

Which is reassuring.


Our track, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


A Slightly Embarrassing Start

The Hilux is struggling a little in the soft sand.

This surprises me.

Then I realise why.

We haven't actually engaged four-wheel drive.

A small but rather important detail.

The difference is immediate.

It is slightly amusing that we have started this new little Kalahari adventure in two-wheel drive, with tyre pressures still at around 1.8 bar — perfectly reasonable for gravel roads, but not ideal for soft sand.

Our plan B is to reduce the pressure to around 1.3 bar if things become more difficult. We know from previous experience that this makes an enormous difference in really soft sand.

And if that doesn't work, we have the high-lift jack and sandboards mounted on the vehicle.

So we are reasonably well prepared.

At least theoretically.


Wrong Track


Tracks in Kalahari,
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


After perhaps five kilometres, we reach a lonely steel-sheeted shed or outbuilding.

There is a vehicle parked outside, but not a single person in sight.

We decide to continue.

Keep left.

A little further on, we reach a small house where two African women are sitting outside.

This is clearly not Outpost Safari Lodge.

I ask:

“Outpost?”

One of the women kindly explains that we have to drive back to the shed and take the other track.

Exactly what she means by “the other track” is not entirely clear to me.

But it is obvious that we are in the wrong place.

As so often in Namibia, however, the people we encounter are friendly and helpful, and we turn around.

Back at the shed, we find what we now hope is the correct track.

And then, suddenly, we see buildings on top of a small dune to our right.

There is a sign: Dune House.


Dune House near Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


It turns out to be another accommodation option operated by Outpost Safaris. It is spectacularly situated, completely isolated and overlooking the Kalahari.

I get out and look for someone.

Nobody.

So we continue.

Third time lucky.

And then, in the distance, we finally see it.


Outpost Safari Lodge
Our room right ground floor
Namibia 2026


A large, beautiful building clad in green canvas, majestically perched on top of a sand dune.

Surely this must be it.


Finally – Outpost

We drive towards the top of the dune and park the Toyota Hilux in front of the lodge.

Initially, there is nobody in sight.

But the front door is wide open.

We step inside.

And there we meet Elize, who turns out to be our wonderfully friendly and competent host.


Elize, our friendly & competent host
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


She hadn't heard the car arriving.

But she certainly knew we were coming.

Fresh orange juice is already waiting in champagne glasses, together with a tray filled with homemade snacks and all sorts of delicious treats.

We were expected after all.

And within seconds, we feel completely welcome.

More importantly, we are enormously relieved to have finally found the place.


Our Own Luxury Lodge


Our room from the terrasse
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Elize shows us to our room.

When we open the door, it exceeds our wildest expectations.

It is enormous.

The room is raised on stilts above the Kalahari, with two huge beds pushed together in the middle, covered with an almost absurd number of cushions.

From the bed there is a magnificent view across the Kalahari and out onto our private terrace.

And there, waiting for us, are wine glasses and an ice bucket.

Naturally.


Two huge beds in our room
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Next to the bed is a beautiful masonry fireplace, meaning that we can lie under the duvet at night and watch the flames while the temperature drops outside.

Behind the sleeping area is an enormous classic English-style bathtub.

And next to it, naturally, a bottle of champagne waiting on ice.


Champagne waiting on ice
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


There are bath salts and herbs for the tub, a beautiful glass shower enclosure and double washbasins — allowing us, in theory, to brush our teeth at the same time.

The whole room is beautifully designed, luxurious without being flashy, and filled with small details that show how much thought has gone into the place.

Bravo.


A Lodge in the Wilderness


Inside Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

It quickly becomes apparent that we have, for all practical purposes, our own large luxury lodge in the middle of the Kalahari.

Nothing seems to be missing.

The main lodge has only four rooms, and its elevated position on the top of a sand dune provides sweeping views across the Kalahari and towards the waterhole below.

All our meals are prepared by Elize and her two assistants in the kitchen.

And they are extraordinary.

Three-course dinners appear every evening, accompanied by homemade cakes and other treats during the day.

In front of the main building is a large terrace with a fire pit and plunge pool, overlooking the waterhole below the dune, where animals come to drink.

Inside, there are large, heavy and beautiful wooden pieces of furniture with enormous cushions.



Huge chimney structure
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Two masonry fireplaces merge into a huge chimney structure rising perhaps 10–12 metres above us.

There is also a help-yourself bar, with a fine selection of water, wine and spirits.

Next to the main lodge is a large sun lounge built on stilts, furnished with comfortable chairs and an assortment of international magazines.


sun lounge built on stilts, sunset
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We are the only guests sitting at the dining table.

It is designed for around 20 people.

Fortunately, we don't have to sit at opposite ends!


We are only guests at dining table!
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


There Is a Snake in Paradise

But, as they say, there are always snakes in paradise.

Here, however, the snake turns out to be a lion.

After our recent leopard encounter with my brother and sister-in-law (link), I had actually resigned myself to the idea that we probably wouldn't see any more of Africa's big cats on this trip.

I had forgotten one rather important detail.

We are now living next door to Kgalagadi.

It turns out that one of the park's young male lions has recently decided to go on an excursion.


Lion, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


He has dug his way underneath the fence into Outpost's enormous property.

And, if you think about it, this is perfectly understandable.

What could possibly be more tempting for a young lion than a self-service buffet, moving into a large wildlife-rich area where he is apparently the only big cat?


Our Unexpected House Lion


Wife staying close to Lodge
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Elize advises us not to wander around outside the lodge too much.

She has just seen the lion before our arrival.

It has killed a large zebra.

And she has seen its tracks around next door Dune House.

Which, of course, happens to be precisely where I was wandering around looking for staff a short while earlier. ;-)

So it turns out that we have, somewhat unexpectedly, moved into a house with our very own lion.

We decide that we would prefer him to maintain a reasonable distance.

Very reasonable, actually.


Four Nights in the Kalahari


Plungepool at sunset, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


What an extraordinary place we have moved into.

Outpost has completely exceeded our expectations.

We came here as an alternative because we couldn't get into Kgalagadi.

Instead, we have somehow ended up in our own private luxury hideaway in the middle of the Kalahari, surrounded by competent and kind staff, dunes, wildlife and complete silence.

And apparently, one wandering young male lion.

We are looking forward to four nights of peace, luxury and adventure.

Although perhaps with slightly less wandering around outside than we had originally planned.

Friday, 13 September 2024

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - a natureserve the size of Denmark!

Kgalagadi, a hidden gem in Kalahari Desert 


Son relaxing at Gharagab Wilderness Camp,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015.

Everything is just bigger in Africa. Today, we are at the Mata Mata border post about to venture into Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, a vast wildlife preserve and conservation area in southern Africa nearly the size of Denmark at 38,000 square kilometers! We are in the border area between Namibia, Botswana, and South Africa. The park is largely situated within the southern Kalahari Desert, characterized by impressive and beautiful red dunes, sparse vegetation, occasional trees, and the hallmarks — the dry riverbeds of the Nossob and Auob Rivers. These rivers are said to flow only about once per century. However, water flows underground, providing life for grass and trees growing in riverbeds. Additionally, the rivers may flow briefly after large thunderstorms.


Sparse vegetation, occasional trees,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015.


In 2015, my son and I took a father-son trip to the area (link post). I fell completely in love with the area and promised myself that I would return with my wife in the future. And now we are here, very excited to visit the park and try the Nossob Eco 4x4 trail, popular among 4x4 enthusiasts (see later posts).

Wildlife and predetors


Ostriches, Kgalagadi, 2015.

We also look forward to enjoying the nature and wildlife. According to Wiki, Kgalagadi has abundant wildlife with over 470 documented species, including large predators such as lions, cheetahs, leopards, spotted hyenas, and brown hyenas. But also smaller mammals including African wildcats, bat-eared foxes, Cape foxes, black-backed jackals, caracals, genets, honey badgers, as well as meerkats and mongooses.


Brown hyenas, Kgalagadi, 2015. 

Cape fox, Kgalagadi, 2015


My son and I saw many interesting species last time we visited and had the "pleasure" of lions outside the tent (link blog).


Lions, Kgalagadi, 2015


You can also see large ungulates [hovdyr], such as blue wildebeests, gemsboks, springboks, steenboks, southern giraffes, common elands, greater kudus, warthogs, klipspringers, and red hartebeests.


It is also a bird lover's paradise, Kgalagadi, 2015.

And over 30 reptile and amphibian species, including venomous snakes such as the Cape cobra, horned adder, puff adder, and black mamba. So watch where you walk and what you touch! You also find, for example, leopard tortoises, various agamas, geckos, sand frogs, and African bullfrogs.

Since 2005, the protected area has been considered a Lion Conservation Unit and a lion stronghold in Southern Africa. Fortunately, we are in a rooftop tent, but even that is not a 100% guarantee, as you can read in this "scary" post (link blog).

The Weather

We are visiting in September and expect a mean temperature of 18°C (64°F) with lows/highs of 8-29°C. However, extremes measured are between -5 and 38°C, respectively! See climate data for Kgalagadi at this link (link). And come prepared with plenty of water and the right equipment. Also, because help might be hours to days away given it's a wilderness the size of Denmark

Facilities


Kalahari Tented Camp, Kgalagadi, 2015.


First of all, book well in advance! There are very few places to stay in the park, and they sell out one year in advance the moment they are released. Join the Kgalagadi Facebook groups to learn the tricks of securing accommodation. You can stay in the three tourist lodges called "rest camps," which are serviced lodges with amenities such as air conditioning, shops, and swimming pools. Alternatively, and much better in my opinion, opt for the reasonably priced wilderness camps in the park. The wilderness camps provide excellent shelter; for example, see our experiences and pictures from Gharagab (link blog) and Grootkolk (link blog). You have to supply your own food, drinking water, and firewood! (Basically everything). Read more about the park and booking at Sanparks link

Source: Kgalagadi_map.pdf (sanparks.org)


Wednesday, 7 August 2024

Namibia 2024 itinerary "Deserts and wilderness"

Proverb 

"Camp sites fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember sometimes a particular bend of your wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as if it were a significant landmark in your life"

 Karen Blixen (Isak Dinesen) in "Out of Africa", 1937


Me and my wifes campsite, Trekking on our own in
Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997. 


Daughter, son and wife at campsite,
Little Hunter´s Rest, Tiras Mountains,
Namibia, 2009.

Planning the trip is half the pleasure!

Over the years, it has become a beloved hobby to plan self-drive trips in Africa and write this travel blog. When I plan the trips, I am already in Africa! And I relive our many previous adventures! Such a joy.

Namibia 2024, planning phase
at home in Copenhagen

In the planning phase, I love to explore maps, guidebooks, the internet, FB travel groups, and TripAdvisor. Until recently, I used ExpertAfrica.com in the UK for bookings and car hire (and once used SafariDrive.com). These UK-based travel agents, especially ExpertAfrica, are perfect if you can accept their fine trip suggestions with just a few individual modifications. 

However, now that it’s our 6th trip to this part of Africa, and we have visited many places and have our own opinions on where to stay and go, I found it more useful to book the Toyota Land Cruiser directly through Bushlore.com and use their bookings department in Johannesburg for securing campsites, lodges, etc., based on our own itinerary. In addition, I booked directly on my own where there was a good online booking system such as "Nightsbridge." This has worked very well—the final test will, of course, be when we arrive in Windhoek in September!

Why this "deserts and wilderness route"? 

This time, the focus is camping in deserts and wilderness, venturing from southeast to northwest! It's an unusual route reflecting that it’s our 6th trip to Namibia and the fact that we love remote desert landscapes! Also, the route reflects that we have to meet our Danish friends at Bagatelle Guest Farm south of Windhoek 14 days after our own arrival. This will be their first trip to Africa! Furthermore, we prebooked the Nossob 4x4 Wilderness Trail one year in advance (it gets sold out immediately after bookings opens) as it has been a long dream of mine to visit Kgalagadi again after a fantastic experience with my son years ago (Link to father son trip) and to show my wife this extraordinary national park the size of Denmark. Going south from Windhoek and then north again towards Windhoek allows us to try some special tracks such as D1033 and perhaps D1022! You can read our report from these tracks later on this blog!

Our general travel itinerary 2024:

  • Towards Kalahari Desert / Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park on: "4WD adventure"
  • Camping in NamibRand Nature Reserve: "Desert and stargazing"
  • Through Namib-Naukluft National Park to Swakopmund: "two mountain passes and the coast"
  • Through Erongo and Kunene regions & exploring Etendeka Plateau: "Volcanic rocks & flat-topped mountains"
  • Remote Kunene/Kaokoland wilderness days: "Explooring Africa´s last wilderness"
  • Along Cunene River on the Angolan border: "The green oasis"
  • Etosha National Park and Erongo Mountains luxury finish: "The big five & gastronomy"


Specific stops and links to homepages (6 weeks trip):


Route on TripAdvisor

  1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, campsite, 2 nights Bagatelle
  2. Kalahari Game Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Kalahari GL
  3. Mata-Mata Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  4. Kalahari Tented Camp, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  5. Nossob Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, camping, 3 nights Nossob 4x4-trail
  7. Twee Rivieren Restcamp, camping, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
  8. Kalahari Game Lodge, 1 night Kalahari GL
  9.  Bagatelle Kalahari Botique Farmhouse, 1 night (join friends from DK) Bagatelle Farmhouse
  10. Namib Rand Family Hideout, campsite, 3 nights Family hideout camping
  11. Desert Breeze Lodge, villa, 3 nights Desert Breeze
  12. Madisa Camp, campsite, 1 night Madisa Camp
  13.  Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, open air, 2 nights Etendeka Trail
  14.  Etendeka Mountain Camp, main camp, 1 night Etendeka Main Camp
  15. Khowarib Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Khowarib Lodge Campsite
  16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp, campsite, 2 nights Puros Bush Lodge
  17. Etambura Camp, 3 nights Etaambura Camp
  18. Opuwo Country Lodge, 1 night Opuwo Lodge
  19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp, campsite, 2 nights Omarunga EP Camp
  20. Camp Cornie, campsite, 2 nights Camp Cornie
  21. Dolomite Camp, 2 nights Etosha Dolomite Camp
  22. Omurenga Lodge, 2 nights Omurenga
  23. River Crossing Lodge, 1 night Rivercrossing


Some potential activities the different places:

In the following, some of the special activities we plan to do some of the different places besides the usual very nice scenic- and game drives and sundowners, the number refers to the list above.

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: a) View the spectacular southern hemisphere sky from observatory with a state-of-the-art computer-controlled telescope, b) Cheetah Excursion to get up close and personal with the fastest land animal on Earth.

Sundowner drive, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2009

2. Kalahari Game Lodge: Try their 4×4 self-drive trail in Kalahari on a 3500ha portion of the lodge.

6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail: Challenging 4x4 driving on a small track through the Kalahari dunes in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks, covering a total distance of 214km, sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights. See my specific posts about the trail and our experiences during the trip later. 

Video when my son and I drove from Gharagab Wilderness camp on the exit track:



9. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: See 1. above.

10. Namib Rand Family Hideout: a) Experience the NamibRand Nature Reserve characterized by expansive plains, towering mountain ranges, and iconic red sand dunes sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights and stargazing, b) Visits Duwisib Castle 80 km away, c) Visit Sossusvlei, d) Try 4WD track. See my specific posts about NamibRand and our experiences during the trip later.

11. Desert Breeze Lodge / Swakopmund: a)  Sandwich Harbour 4x4 drive, see later post, b) Walwis Bay Catamaran Tour, c) The Tug (restaurant), d) Ocean Cellar (restaurant), e) Exploore Swakop.


12. Madisa Camp: Track elephants.

Sundowner near Madisa Camp,
Namibia, 2012

13. Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail: See our blog from previous visit Trail report

Etendeka Mountain Camp, "tents" in distance,
Namibia, 2019

14. Etendeka Mountain Camp: Stargazing through the telescope.

 Etendeka Mountain Camp,
Namibia, 2009

15. Khowarib Lodge: a) Drive to Ongongo Hot Spring for swim, b) Visit Sesfontein. See our blog from previous visit Report Khowarib  

Me & son, Ongongo Hot Spring,
Namibia, 2012


16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp: a) Visiting Himba´s, see our blog from previous visit Puros Himba visit, b) Drive along Hoarusip River to Puros Canyon, see our blog from previous visit including elephant encounter(!) Report from Puros Canyon 

View point near Puros.
Me checking the road ahead of us! 
Namibia, 2012 

17. Etambura Camp: a) Enjoy this very special place, read about our previous visit Etaambura report, b) Visit Himba´s Report previous Himba visit, c) Extreeme 4WD driving to Marienfluss, read report from previous trip Report Marienfluss Drive. 

Video from the road from Puros to Etambura, Namibia, 2012: 


18. Opuwo Country Lodge: buy new supplies form trip to north.

19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp: a) Visit Epupa Falls, read our previous report Epupa Flls Oasis, b) Go on a rafting trip, read our previous report Riverrafting Kunene

Riverrafting Cunene River,
Namibia, 2019

20. Camp Cornie: a) Canoeing the Kunene, b) Fishing the Kunene.

21. Dolomite Camp:  Night drive.

Our cabin, Dolomite Camp,
Etosha, Namibia, 2012

22. Omurenga Lodge: Visit Kristall Kellerei, the oldest wine farm in Namibia Kristall Kellerei