On the way to Epupa Falls at Cunene River

 Epupa Falls: A Hidden Gem on the Namibia-Angola Border

Epupa Falls, a green oasis, the name is a reference
 to the foam created by the falling water,
Namibia, 2019.

After 5 very exciting and challenging days completely off the grid in the remote western Kaokoland, and a day of recharging in the wild west town of Opuwo, we are now about to drive the 179 km from Opuwo to Epupa Falls, also known as Monte Negro Falls in Angola Timorrow. Epupa Falls are a breathtaking series of waterfalls created by the Cunene [Kunene] River, right on the border between Namibia and Angola. We will still be in the stunning Kaokoland. 

In 2019, we visited Epupa Falls together with our children, and we clearly remember how suddenly, there was an amazing green oasis as we came over a hilltop, after hours of driving along a dry track through the desolate landscape. It was like reaching a little paradise in the middle of the wilderness. We really look forward to revisit the place, this time together with our good friends from Denmark.

At Epupa Falls, the river stretches to about 500 meters wide, cascading down in a series of falls over a distance of 1.5 kilometer, with the highest single drop reaching an impressive 37 meters. The nearby settlement, also called Epupa, offers a great base for exploring this dramatic and remote natural wonder.

Some weird extra information

Epupa Falls are shown in the 2011 non-narrative documentary film Samsara (close to the beginning). Completed over a period of five years in 25 countries around the world, Samsara explores the wonders of our world - it´s not a traditional documentary! If you are curious, see Samsara  at YouTube. It's the part with the Himba tribe, known for covering themselves in red ochre after 2 minutes film.

Blog author, Epupa Falls, Namibia, 2019.
Link blog 2019

Exploring the Mighty Cunene River

Kunene River, Namibia, 2019.

The Cunene River (often spelled Kunene in Namibia) is one of Southern Africa's few perennial rivers. Originating in the highlands of Angola, it flows southward toward the Namibia-Angola border, then turns west, creating a natural boundary between the two countries before eventually emptying into the Atlantic Ocean.

This impressive river stretches over 1,050 kilometers and drains a vast area of 106,560 square kilometers. The Cunene’s flow is a lifeline for the region, with an average discharge of 174 to 222 cubic meters per second at its mouth. Along its course, the river forms the stunning Epupa Falls and supports vital infrastructure like the Olushandja Dam, which supplies water to the Ruacana Power Station.

"Shall we do it?" My daughter asked. Not all parental advices are good!

Canoeing at Cunene River,
Namibia, 2012.

Last time, my daughter and I went canoeing on the Cunene river, which nearly got out of control

Suddenly, I'm under the Kunene River, swirling around completely out of control. I can glimpse light from the surface, but I can't get up! I remember thinking:

 "I wonder how long it will take before I pop up, before or after I need to breathe?" 

I think my heart rate is at 180! Finally, I surface. I cough up river water for a long time. It also comes out of the nose. I see the canoe with the guide is to my right and grab the rescue line.

Read the story and see the video here link 

Canoe ready for the blog author and daughter,
Kunene River, Namibia, 2019.
Link blog 2019

blog author and daughter,
Kunene River, Namibia, 2019.
Link blog 2019

Namibia 2024 itinerary "Deserts and wilderness"

Proverb 

"Camp sites fix themselves in your mind as if you had spent long periods of your life in them. You will remember sometimes a particular bend of your wagon tracks in the grass of the plain, as if it were a significant landmark in your life"

 Karen Blixen (Isak Dinesen) in "Out of Africa", 1937

Me and my wifes campsite, Trekking on our own in
Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997. 

Daughter, son and wife at campsite,
Little Hunter´s Rest, Tiras Mountains,
Namibia, 2009.

Planning the trip is half the pleasure!

Over the years, it has become a beloved hobby to plan self-drive trips in Africa and write this travel blog. When I plan the trips, I am already in Africa! And I relive our many previous adventures! Such a joy.

Namibia 2024, planning phase
at home in Copenhagen

In the planning phase, I love to explore maps, guidebooks, the internet, FB travel groups, and TripAdvisor. Until recently, I used ExpertAfrica.com in the UK for bookings and car hire (and once used SafariDrive.com). These UK-based travel agents, especially ExpertAfrica, are perfect if you can accept their fine trip suggestions with just a few individual modifications. 

However, now that it’s our 6th trip to this part of Africa, and we have visited many places and have our own opinions on where to stay and go, I found it more useful to book the Toyota Land Cruiser directly through Bushlore.com and use their bookings department in Johannesburg for securing campsites, lodges, etc., based on our own itinerary. In addition, I booked directly on my own where there was a good online booking system such as "Nightsbridge." This has worked very well—the final test will, of course, be when we arrive in Windhoek in September!

Why this "deserts and wilderness route"? 

This time, the focus is camping in deserts and wilderness, venturing from southeast to northwest! It's an unusual route reflecting that it’s our 6th trip to Namibia and the fact that we love remote desert landscapes! Also, the route reflects that we have to meet our Danish friends at Bagatelle Guest Farm south of Windhoek 14 days after our own arrival. This will be their first trip to Africa! Furthermore, we prebooked the Nossob 4x4 Wilderness Trail one year in advance (it gets sold out immediately after bookings opens) as it has been a long dream of mine to visit Kgalagadi again after a fantastic experience with my son years ago (Link to father son trip) and to show my wife this extraordinary national park the size of Denmark. Going south from Windhoek and then north again towards Windhoek allows us to try some special tracks such as D1033 and perhaps D1022! You can read our report from these tracks later on this blog!

Our general travel itinerary 2024:

• Towards Kalahari Desert / Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park on: "4WD adventure"
• Camping in NamibRand Nature Reserve: "Desert and stargazing"
• Through Namib-Naukluft National Park to Swakopmund: "two mountain passes and the coast"
• Through Erongo and Kunene regions & exploring Etendeka Plateau: "Volcanic rocks & flat-topped mountains"
• Remote Kunene/Kaokoland wilderness days: "Explooring Africa´s last wilderness"
• Along Cunene River on the Angolan border: "The green oasis"
• Etosha National Park and Erongo Mountains luxury finish: "The big five & gastronomy"

Specific stops and links to homepages (6 weeks trip):

Route on TripAdvisor

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, campsite, 2 nights Bagatelle
2. Kalahari Game Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Kalahari GL
3. Mata-Mata Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
4. Kalahari Tented Camp, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
5. Nossob Rest Camp, campsite, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail, camping, 3 nights Nossob 4x4-trail
7. Twee Rivieren Restcamp, camping, 1 night Sanparks Kgalagadi
8. Kalahari Game Lodge, 1 night Kalahari GL
9.  Bagatelle Kalahari Botique Farmhouse, 1 night (join friends from DK) Bagatelle Farmhouse
10. Namib Rand Family Hideout, campsite, 3 nights Family hideout camping
11. Desert Breeze Lodge, villa, 3 nights Desert Breeze
12. Madisa Camp, campsite, 1 night Madisa Camp
13.  Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail, open air, 2 nights Etendeka Trail
14.  Etendeka Mountain Camp, main camp, 1 night Etendeka Main Camp
15. Khowarib Lodge, campsite, 2 nights Khowarib Lodge Campsite
16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp, campsite, 2 nights Puros Bush Lodge
17. Etambura Camp, 3 nights Etaambura Camp
18. Opuwo Country Lodge, 1 night Opuwo Lodge
19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp, campsite, 2 nights Omarunga EP Camp
20. Camp Cornie, campsite, 2 nights Camp Cornie
21. Dolomite Camp, 2 nights Etosha Dolomite Camp
22. Omurenga Lodge, 2 nights Omurenga
23. River Crossing Lodge, 1 night Rivercrossing

Some potential activities the different places:

In the following, some of the special activities we plan to do some of the different places besides the usual very nice scenic- and game drives and sundowners, the number refers to the list above.

1. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: a) View the spectacular southern hemisphere sky from observatory with a state-of-the-art computer-controlled telescope, b) Cheetah Excursion to get up close and personal with the fastest land animal on Earth.

Sundowner drive, Bagatelle,
Namibia, 2009

2. Kalahari Game Lodge: Try their 4×4 self-drive trail in Kalahari on a 3500ha portion of the lodge.

6. Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail: Challenging 4x4 driving on a small track through the Kalahari dunes in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks, covering a total distance of 214km, sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights. See my specific posts about the trail and our experiences during the trip later. 

Video when my son and I drove from Gharagab Wilderness camp on the exit track:

9. Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch: See 1. above.

10. Namib Rand Family Hideout: a) Experience the NamibRand Nature Reserve characterized by expansive plains, towering mountain ranges, and iconic red sand dunes sleeping out in the desert for 3 nights and stargazing, b) Visits Duwisib Castle 80 km away, c) Visit Sossusvlei, d) Try 4WD track. See my specific posts about NamibRand and our experiences during the trip later.

11. Desert Breeze Lodge / Swakopmund: a)  Sandwich Harbour 4x4 drive, see later post, b) Walwis Bay Catamaran Tour, c) The Tug (restaurant), d) Ocean Cellar (restaurant), e) Exploore Swakop.

12. Madisa Camp: Track elephants.

Sundowner near Madisa Camp,
Namibia, 2012

13. Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail: See our blog from previous visit Trail report

Etendeka Mountain Camp, "tents" in distance,
Namibia, 2019

14. Etendeka Mountain Camp: Stargazing through the telescope.

 Etendeka Mountain Camp,
Namibia, 2009

15. Khowarib Lodge: a) Drive to Ongongo Hot Spring for swim, b) Visit Sesfontein. See our blog from previous visit Report Khowarib  

Me & son, Ongongo Hot Spring,
Namibia, 2012

16. Puros Bush Lodge & Camp: a) Visiting Himba´s, see our blog from previous visit Puros Himba visit, b) Drive along Hoarusip River to Puros Canyon, see our blog from previous visit including elephant encounter(!) Report from Puros Canyon 

View point near Puros.
Me checking the road ahead of us! 
Namibia, 2012 

17. Etambura Camp: a) Enjoy this very special place, read about our previous visit Etaambura report, b) Visit Himba´s Report previous Himba visit, c) Extreeme 4WD driving to Marienfluss, read report from previous trip Report Marienfluss Drive. 

Video from the road from Puros to Etambura, Namibia, 2012: 

18. Opuwo Country Lodge: buy new supplies form trip to north.

19. Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp: a) Visit Epupa Falls, read our previous report Epupa Flls Oasis, b) Go on a rafting trip, read our previous report Riverrafting Kunene

Riverrafting Cunene River,
Namibia, 2019

20. Camp Cornie: a) Canoeing the Kunene, b) Fishing the Kunene.

21. Dolomite Camp:  Night drive.

Our cabin, Dolomite Camp,
Etosha, Namibia, 2012

22. Omurenga Lodge: Visit Kristall Kellerei, the oldest wine farm in Namibia Kristall Kellerei