Quivertree Gorge Trail, an excellent route!

The road up to the mountain plateau
 is not for the faint of heart!

We head for the Quivertree Gorge Walking Trail from BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse. At the end of the day, this will turn out to be one of the most fantastic trails we have hiked in Africa so far! Perhaps only surpassed by the "Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail" (link) and our recent 3 days walking safari in Mundulea Private Reserve (link). However, they are both several-days walking experiences, whereas Quivertree Gorge Trail is a 5-7 hours tour. 

We drive into the Naukluft mountains to the starting point at the top of the trail. From the open Land Rover, we have the most amazing views of towering mountains and spectacular nature 360 degrees. In the distance, we see Hartmann's mountain zebras in their true environment on a mountain side, and we see many exotic plants next to the trail. 

Exotic tree, Naukluft

Klipspringer, Naukluft

Quivertree, Quivertree Gorge Trail

Good we are in a solid Land Rover. The road up to the mountain plateau is not for the faint of heart! On the right side of the car, there is a free fall! It is about having faith in the clutch and the driver! Fortunately, he proves to be extremely competent and pleasant. This morning, the temperature is 20-25C, later in the gorge, it rises to >35C. Remember plenty drinking water. First, we stop at a radio mast on the top of a mountain. It covers the entire ranch. Truely amazing views.

View near radio mast, Naukluft Mountains

Naukluft

Then, we continue to the drop-off point at 1850m, where the driver leaves us. 

We start by going down a mountainside.  We received a good trail description at BullsPort, and there are good markings everywhere. Still take care, this is NOT a place you want to get lost.

On the way to the starting point, our guide pointed out a leopard track(!) Good we have become used to walking in leopard land (read link). We do not see the leopard itself (fortunately they are very shy). We can also read in the trail description, that there is spitting copra in the gorge, named Amanda (!)

The trip through the gorge itself is absolutely wonderful. We're nuts alone, it's about not getting hurt, avoid spraining your ankle. Fortunately, our hosts know where we are and our guide is supposed to pick us up 3 hours later.

Watch out!

We constantly watch where we put our hands and feet! We have to stop to look up and enjoy the surroundings.

Quivertree George, Naukluft

The route winds along the bottom of the gorge - and sometimes steeply up the sides. There are good markings and difficult places have chains / railings. There is water in rock pools along the way, but you can see that we are just before the rainy season.

Quivertree Gorge Trail, rest

This turned out to be an absolutely fantastic trip. It´s highly recommended. The tour is a gem (and so is BullsPort in its own wonderfully relaxed way)

Trails BûllsPort

Tracks4Africa, on the way!

Erongo Mountains & Ai Aiba Lodge

Ai Aiba Lodge, sundowner walk

There is a constant hot wind that rises and falls in intensity. Like a hair dryer that goes up and down in speed, but never fails in temperature. We are on the terrace outside our comfortable chalet. It´s  nestled neatly between giant balancing boulders that could crush the small huts at any time. I assume they have been there for thousands of years. Just next to us, the lizards’ (agamas) play around and does not notice our presence. Why should they; they belong to this splendid area in the Erongo Mountains. We are just visitors.

Terrace outside our comfortable chalet

Next to us the lizards play around 

Ai Aiba Lodge is situated 1,200 meters above sea level on the Northwestern side of the mountain range. The name comes from Damara/Nama language and means “someone who leads the way”. Perhaps how to integrate tourism and nature conservation? The natural game in the area includes kudu, springbok, oryx, dik dik, duiker, klipspringer, mountain zebra, giraffe, jackal, leopard, brown hyena, warthog, aardwolf, aardvark, bat eared fox, small spotted genet, African wild cat, porcupine and many more. Nevertheless, it seems like a safe place to walk around, you only see few animals. Look where you place your feet and hands, it´s also an area with occasionally a snake or a scorpion. Should you meet a cat – don´t run (read our two previous posts on animal encounters "animal encounters" & "Don´t run"). 

Leopard turtle (dead), walk, Ai Aiba Lodge

We are here in the beginning of the small rainy season from OCT-NOV. The main rainy season is from JAN-APR. We see the first clouds in the distance, but still no rain.

First clouds, but still no rain

At arrival, the lodge seems a bit unorganized. No welcome committee ready as we have become used to. Finally, a receptionist welcomes us and introduces everything. We are in room 9. This appears to be a rather large lodge and it´s quite busy with clients right now. Perhaps also because of German autumn school holiday which means many German couples and their children are on the premises. 

We are not used to the lager lodges but have been spoiled by intimate luxury lodges with a personal appeal or visiting very remote locations (Moon base Alpha [in Danish] link). At dinner first night, children are playing everywhere including inside the restaurant, not exactly candlelight romantics.

 At arrival, we are offered a sunset walk to a nearby mountain peak. It turns out to be a party of seventeen (!) newly arrived guests alone with one guide only (!) It would have been reasonable to split into at least two groups, families with their children and couples. After this peculiar “experience”, we decide only to book additional excursions given the group is not too large. Fortunately, there is a nice pool with stunning views.  

Swimming pool, Ai Aiba

Sunset from poolarea, Ai Aiba Lodge

Next morning we do our own walk along the well-marked trail next to the lodge. It´s only 1 km but takes 45 mins because of the many rock boulders to navigate and interesting bushman paintings. It´s easy to follow the guiding signs. 

Well marked trail next to lodge

The 2nd evening, we enjoy the sunset in sun chairs by the swimming pool. Afterwards a peaceful dinner in the restaurant – this time only nice children playing on the lawn outside. We are impressed by the high quality of the food in this lodge compared to other good lodges. 

Ai Aiba Lodge, sunset

Third day, we got our own guide for a 2,5 hour morning walk on the plains below the mountains. It was very beautiful and relaxing. If we were to visit again, we would ask for a full day walk.  

Walking with guide, Ai Aiba Lodge

Walking with guide, Ai Aiba Lodge

Scenery during walk, Ai Aiba Lodge

Pros

• Spectacular (!) setting in Erongo Mountains
• Nice comfortable clean spacious chalet with air con
• Large pool area
• Perfect with small children
• Good wine list (try the Snow Mountain pinot noir & Groote Post riesling)
• High quality food

Con

• Rather big lodge = many guests
• Many families with young children “all over the place” in school holidays
• A bit disorganized / busy, no personal feel
• Many guests per guide, however we got private guide on request

Onguma Forest Camp; quiet days & thunder storm

Relaxing Onguma Forest Camp

We are relaxing in Onguma Forest Camp. It´s one of the many Onguma Lodges close to Etosha National Park. We have been here three times before, but never tried the Forest Camp. Last time we stayed in the impressive “The Fort” (link), and previously two times, at the Onguma Lodge Campsite / Lodge. 

Onguma Forest Camp

The Onguma Camps are all quite touristic. Still, they are pleasant places to recharge your batteries. It´s as far from our authentic experience in Mundulea Private Reserve as we can get, and quite a contrast to our previous days (link). But what’s not to like? The pool, restaurant, nice private room, fireplace or vintage wines?

Onguma Forest Camp

We were supposed to go on Onguma “Dream Cruiser experience”. Sleeping on the top of your own camper during evening and night next to a waterhole. We remained in the lodge due the first thunderstorm. Sleeping alone next to a waterhole on the top of an open metal frame in thunderstorm did not appeal.

Okonjima Nature Reserve & Plains Camp

Okonjima Nature Reserve

We are in Okonjima nature reserve, a family run lodge and conversation project. Once it was a cattle farm, now a 200 km2 nature reserve established in 1992. Through “AfriCat” focusing on the large carnivores; rescue, rehabilitation and release.

We are in the Plains Camp in the protected area. A bit like Jurassic Park, our little village is surrounded by fences to keep the large predators out! We all remember how that worked out in Jurassic Park ;-)

We leave the protected area tracking leopards. In front of the safari vehicle, our guide tracks the collared leopard with an antenna. Beep – beep – beep the sound get higher when we get closer to the animal. Why does it instantly remind me of Sigourney Weaver “Alien” from 1979?

Leopard tracking Okonjima 

At first, we see a beautiful young leopard in a tree. It decides to vanish into the bush.

Young leopard, Okonjima

Off into the bush

Then we track a large leopard in the bush. It´s difficult to find. Amazing how deep into the scrubs we get. No easy route out again. There she is. Just next to a large tree. Guarding her evening meal in the tree. We keep some distance; leopards are very protective when it comes to protecting their prey.

Leopard guarding prey, Okonjima

Danish tourist in the bush

Back in the Plains Camp again after an exciting game drive. Okonjima was just a stopover on our route to Mundulea (link), but it turned out to be a positive surprise. We were in the “standard rooms” rather than the “view rooms”. They were large and spotless clean, had all necessities and a fantastic view. Hard to imagine the view rooms can be much better! 

This is a place that receives many visitors – a bit “mass tourism” – but worth visiting.       

Sundowner Okonjima

A tiger a tiger a tiger!?

""Tiger"" (foto from Okonjima Nature Reserve)

We are sitting around the fire at Mundulea Camp. What a pleasure to be in the company of nice fellow guests from UK and Canada who used to live in Africa. So many interesting stories. Our host B tells us a recent story about "the tiger".  His new assistant Z called him from the farm: 

"A tiger a tiger a tiger"

Z gasped for breath as he tried to alert B to the danger he was in. 
"Where are you?"
"In the room with closed door and window!!" panicked Z
"Tell me, what do actually you see?
"I see a tiger" ... "It sits in the bourgainville outside the window" replied Z
"Is it like a big cat with spots?"
"Yes!" shouts Z
"Then it is a leopard, there are no tigers in Africa"
Z thinks he is being chased by the tiger. It´s watching him from the distance. B doubts the story... 

Weeks later

Z calls B in despair.
"Now, the tiger is in the kitchen!"
"What, where - what do you mean?" asks B
"I opened the door to the kitchen, the tiger is sitting in there looking at me!" Z replies
"What did you do then?" asks B
"I closed the door again and ran away!"
Z even more convinced that the tiger is following him.

Days later

Z sleeps in a tent in the camp, B sleeps on a cot outside the tent in the open. 
B wakes up in the middle of the night with a feeling of being watched.
5 meters from him, the leopard sits and looks directly at him!
Slightly uneasy, B lies down again. Next morning the leopard is gone.

Mundulea Camp

Did you see the leopard?

 Did you see the leopard?

Leopard, Namibia

“Did you see the leopard passing the road?” asks our guide Bruno. We are on our first walking safari short time after arriving in Mundulea Camp. Previously, on the way to the camp, I just reassured my wife “no visitors have ever seen cats [leopard, loon and cheetah] in this area, it should be quite safe. Fortunately, the second argument I gave for undertaking this adventure still holds “They cannot run a business if tourists are eaten all the time”. After our new leopard information, we keep a tighter formation walking one by one in the dense bush and no one really wanted to be the last person in the row?

Walking safari, Mundulea Private Reserve

We are in Mundulea Private Reserve together with our host the owner and expert guide Bruno. He established this 120 km2 large reserve some 20 yrs ago in 2001. It borders Otavi Mountains. When we look around, we see bush and mountain savannah with dolomite ridges spanning the landscape. We are in the central area of Namibia receiving most rainfall at approx. 300 ml / year. The water can’t escape but forms sink holes, steep gorges and underground caverns, when it disappears into the ground. Near a big fig tree, Bruno points out depressions and crevasses in the ground caused by water erosion. 

Water crevasses in the ground

Water crevasses in the ground,
140 meter deep

We walk for about 2-3 hours, and the colors get increasingly more impressive; khaki, brown, orange, and sand as the sun disappears behind the mountain peak to the west of us. Just before we reach the camp again 3 hours later, we see a very large eland bull, the alpha animal marking his territory. An impressive sight. Also, his heard drinking from the waterhole just outside the camp. Finally, back in the camp after the first of what turns out to be a row of wonderful walking safaris, we settle around the fireplace with G&T´s. Animal sounds 360 degrees around us. Enchanting. 

Getting to Mundulea started straightforward on good tar roads until we turned off at minor D2809. Not a car or human being in sight anywhere. According to the instructions from Expert Africa, we were to drive 10 km east heading for the Mundulea entrance. We pass two major gates with security cameras and razorblade wires, poaching was heavy during covid, and we follow the rugged road all the way to the farmhouse on top of hill. We are really on the countryside and hope we are on the right track. No guiding signs and no phone signal. Bruno likes privacy. You could get seriously lost.

Our camp has the outline of a “kraal”; a fence of wooden sticks provide some protection against predators during night. We have a simple – bur fully adequate – tent with mosquito nets and an open bathroom. We check the floor for snakes and scorpions, whenever we step out of your bed or enters the open heaven bathroom. We place our shoes on hangers under the roof and keep our bags on tables zipped up all time. Nevertheless, we fell safe in this small paradise. Or as Bruno expressed it “Don´t mind all the sounds during the night, you are safe in your tent”.  Later we learned that Bruno always sleeps outside his tent on the veranda.

Mundulea Camp, Kraal & canvas roof

Mundulea, all meals made over open fire

Mundulea, dining table

Mundulea kraal enterence, Elands

Mundulea, ready for dinner

Bruno and his assistant prepare all meals over open fire. We enjoy them on beautiful homemade DIY wooden tables and chairs, placed under a green canvas roof in the shade of a big tree.   

We do two daily walks and realize Bruno is an extraordinary source of nature information. He literally knows all about plants, animals, insects, minerals, landscaping etc. He is involved in multiple research projects and nature activities and researchers join him from all over the world. We – the tourists – are just a way to produce income for the conservation project. 

We walk around for up to 5 hours for each trip. Any animal, bird, track tree, scrub, and Bruno will know the name and all information behind. E.g., he gave us a 20 mins lecture on termites. And yes, it was interesting from beginning to end. Herbivore, carnivore or omnivore? Droppings: Dung or cast?   

Zebra footprints

Giraffe footpring and droppings;
note dung impression and dent

Leopard hairball

In the hours in the camp between walking, we had the most interesting conversations with Bruno and the four other guests around the fire and dining table. A highlight of our trip so far – actually - of all our many trips to Africa.  

Mundulea, our tent

Mundulea, our bed

Mundulea, open air bathroom