Canyon Lodge – The Good, the Bad and the Overpriced

Canyon Lodge - nice location but...
Namibia 2026 

Canyon Lodge turned out to be a case of the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced. The setting was fantastic, our chalet was perfect, and the pool was almost impossible to fault, with magnificent views across Gondwana Nature Park towards the Fish River Canyon.

Unfortunately, all these wonderful elements were almost completely overshadowed by an invasion of three large groups — two of around ten people each and one of more than twenty people from the other side of the world.

And it started so well

Lodge in front of reception
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

We were warmly greeted by a very enthusiastic guide — and, as it turned out, salesman — who showed us to reception. He told us that he would later explain all the activities and excursions available at the lodge. We never saw him again. Perhaps we had already been sold.

At reception, we were met by a very friendly hostess who completed the usual check-in formalities before assigning us Family Chalet 21. She then showed us around the lodge, including the shop, restaurant and terrace, and arranged for our luggage to be delivered to the chalet.

Family Chalet 21, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

We opened the door to Chalet 21 and were immediately impressed. The chalet is beautifully integrated into the rocky landscape, with a huge pile of boulders rising behind it, seemingly balanced on top of one another. It reminded us a little of the Erongo Mountains [link].

The living room, bedroom and bathroom are built directly among the rocks, with large rock formations incorporated throughout the chalet. Immediately to the right as you enter is a bedroom with a double bed, separated from the second double bed by a roughly 3 x 3 metre boulder. There is a wardrobe, a small table with glasses, a coffee and tea station, a safe and everything else you could reasonably want. Everything was in immaculate condition. Nothing was missing.

The bathroom feels almost like a cave
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

The bathroom is reached by walking down into what feels almost like a cave. There, you are greeted by a large and inviting bathtub. The whole thing is wonderfully cosy — and quite spectacular.

Pool area, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Once we had settled in, we also headed for the pool area, located a few hundred metres from the chalets. Sun loungers are spread across several levels of rocky terraces, overlooking a beautiful, almost infinity-style pool. Beyond it are magnificent views across the surrounding plains and mountains.

Blogger by pool area
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

There was even Wi-Fi.

It just never worked.

The restaurant

Terrasse outside restautant
Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Our first dinner was a buffet in the restaurant. It was OK, but rather heavy on the meat-and-gravy side of things. The green element consisted mainly of various canned vegetables poured into bowls, which did not exactly scream culinary ambition.

Before the buffet, we were offered a choice of two starters. On both evenings we ate at the restaurant, both were distinctly underwhelming.

We were also given some warm bread when we sat down. Calling it a piece of bread would perhaps be generous — it was more or less bonsai-sized. An odd place to save money.

The staff were friendly and clearly doing their best. They were, however, fighting an uphill battle.

Night sky, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

The second evening, things went completely off the rails.

First, we received a piece of warm bread approximately the size of a walnut, followed by a choice of two small starters. Neither was significantly larger than the bread.

Looking around the restaurant, we noticed that tables had been set for three groups: two of around ten people each and another table with more than twenty places.

The restaurant is not particularly large, and this looked like a completely hopeless project.

The first group of around ten was already sitting peacefully enjoying their dinner. Then the very large group of more than twenty arrived from the other side of the world and descended upon the relatively small restaurant.

Their guide immediately started rushing around, giving instructions to both the staff and their group members, while the latter made a beeline for the buffet — straight for the meat, naturally.

There was no sitting down first, no settling in, and apparently very little consideration for the other guests.

We were perhaps five couples sitting quietly and trying to enjoy our dinner. From that point onwards, it was obvious that nobody was enjoying the experience anymore.

We left before dessert, after pointing out that the situation was simply unacceptable. This was met with a somewhat bewildered smile and a shrug of the shoulders.

And just as we walked out the door, the other group of ten arrived.

Good luck.

Family chalet 21, good thing about Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

This was now the second time on this trip that we had experienced an invasion of large groups at a Gondwana Lodge. The previous occasion was at The Desert Grace, where there was at least considerably more space, and where the much higher quality of the food and facilities helped to compensate (link).

Canyon Lodge simply does not have a restaurant large enough to accommodate groups of this size without seriously affecting the experience of everyone else.

Quite frankly, it is not acceptable for guests to book a year in advance and pay around NAD 8,000 per night  (430 EUR) for bed and breakfast, only to find themselves in an overcrowded and chaotic environment like this.

There is a very obvious mismatch between the price and what you actually get.

We will certainly not be returning to Canyon Lodge. And in the future, we will think twice about staying at Gondwana-branded lodges, or indeed at other properties that actively cater to large organised groups. We would much rather choose smaller, more intimate places where the experience of the individual guest actually seems to matter. An good alternative is Fish River Lodge on the other side of the Fish River Canyon , see link to our recent visit (link)

Perhaps it is the location?

Fish River Canyon, main viewpoint
20 km from Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Maybe this is simply what happens when you are in a spectacular location.

If you eat in Nyhavn in Copenhagen, one of Denmark's most popular tourist spots, you can be fairly certain that you will pay a high price. What you cannot be equally certain of is getting high quality in return.

Perhaps the same applies here. If you are staying right next to the Fish River Canyon or close to Sossusvlei, perhaps the location itself becomes part of the price tag.

But surely that does not have to mean that the rest of the experience is allowed to deteriorate.

Map at Canyon Lodge of
Fish River Canyon tracks
Namibia 2026

And there was one final annoyance.

At breakfast, the buffet was routinely being stripped by the groups before we arrived, and it was not properly replenished afterwards. What was left for the remaining guests were essentially the poor leftovers.

Even some of the cheapest hotels we have stayed at elsewhere manage to keep a breakfast buffet replenished.

So, yes — Canyon Lodge is a spectacular place. The setting is extraordinary, our chalet was wonderful, and the pool is fantastic.

But a beautiful location and a great chalet do not, by themselves, make a great lodge.

For us, Canyon Lodge was ultimately the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced.

//Garas 4x4 Self-Drive – An Adventure Through Gondwana Canyon Park

 

//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

Setting Out from Canyon Lodge

The day after arriving at Canyon Lodge, we decide to try the //Garas Self-Drive, a marked route of approximately 40 km through Gondwana Canyon Park, which takes around 2–3 hours to complete.

This is not described as a particularly difficult 4x4 route, but rather as a great way to experience the private conservation area independently. The route follows marked tracks through the park and connects Canyon Lodge with Canyon Roadhouse.

A4 trail map //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

At reception at Canyon Lodge, we are given a simple A4 trail map. The route is not marked on our ever-present companion, Tracks4Africa, but at least the app always shows us where Canyon Lodge is located – just in case we somehow get lost!

We set off, with my wife behind the wheel.

wife behind the wheel
Namibia 2026

A Gentle 4x4 Challenge

We are both relatively experienced 4x4 drivers, but it quickly becomes clear that the route is not technically difficult. The terrain is uneven, with plenty of rocks and, in a few places, somewhat steeper rocky sections where a dry riverbed or small tributary crosses the track.

Still, the challenges are no greater than what any reasonably capable 4x4 vehicle should be able to handle.

On the way, //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The route takes us through the characteristic rocky landscape of Gondwana Canyon Park, with its koppies, granite formations, euphorbias and quiver trees.

Grasshoppers and Other Small Creatures

We don't encounter much large wildlife – apart from a single giraffe early in the drive and occasional springbok. But the smaller inhabitants of the park are everywhere.

Large grasshoppers suddenly leap from the vegetation as we pass, while dragonfly-like insects seem to be constantly on the move around us.

At one point, a very large grasshopper suddenly flies through the open side window and lands inside the car.

Very large grasshoppers everywhere
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

For a few seconds, there is mild panic!

Perhaps partly because we are surprised – but also because these Namibian grasshoppers are considerably larger than the ones we are used to in Denmark!

As soon as we establish that it is just a grasshopper – and not some kind of flying scorpion ;-) – calm returns to the vehicle.

And we have a good laugh.

When you are driving alone through unfamiliar terrain, you are perhaps slightly more alert than usual. Every unexpected movement or strange sound gets your attention.

We are, as we like to call it, on an adventure.

From Rocky Terrain to Open Sand

halfway along the trail, landscape
becomes more open and sandy.
Namibia 2026

The first half of the route is quite rocky, but after Dassies Poort, approximately halfway along the trail, the landscape changes. The terrain becomes more open and sandy, and the driving becomes easier.

Along the way, we pass two Wild Camps.

The first one in particular catches my attention. It looks like the perfect place to spend a night with a rooftop tent. Imagine climbing onto the roof of the vehicle in the evening and simply enjoying the solitude, the silence and the spectacular views surrounding you.

I suspect that overnight stays may be possible with permission from the lodge or Gondwana. Definitely something worth investigating another time.

A Different Side of Gondwana Canyon Park

Namaqua sandgrouse
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The //Garas Self-Drive has turned out to be a lovely way to experience a different side of Gondwana Canyon Park.

It has not been a technical 4x4 challenge, but that was never really the point. The pleasure lies in being out there on our own, slowly exploring the landscape and never quite knowing what we might encounter around the next bend.

A wonderful day.

Now it is time to relax at the lodge.

Tomorrow, we will finally explore the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

From the Kalahari to the Fish River Canyon – The Long Way South

 

We leave Outpost Safari Lodge early
We have a long drive to Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Today we leave Outpost Safari Lodge near Unions End and embark on a very long drive all the way to Canyon Lodge, near the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon and the Hobas entrance gate.

For some time, I have wanted to explore more of the small back roads in this remote part of Namibia. On a previous journey, we had a fantastic drive along the little D1033, the “Olifants River Road” (link D1033 trip).

This time, we decide to take one of the most easterly routes possible through this part of Namibia. We follow the D1022, then the D1119 and D511, before eventually turning southeast onto the somewhat larger C17 towards the small town of Koes and onwards to Keetmanshoop.

It turns out to be a perfect plan.

Start of D1022, runs lengthwise
 between the dunes most of time
Namibia 2026

Almost nobody on the road

D1022, we meet only three other vehicles!
Freshly graded track
Namibia 2026

During the first three hours, we encounter just three other vehicles!

We initially head south on the D1022, which turns out to have been freshly graded and is in absolutely perfect condition.

And here I was, expecting loose sand and a potentially challenging 4WD drive!

Instead, the road runs lengthwise between the dunes, and only occasionally do we cross from one dune ridge to another. This creates long, straight stretches interrupted by short but beautiful climbs over the dune crests.

Road D1119, distance between
the dune ridges shorter, red sand.
Namibia 2026

When we reach the D1119, we start heading more towards the west. The distance between the dune ridges becomes shorter, and the character of the drive changes.

It gradually develops into something resembling a roller coaster ride over the now quite high dunes – still, however, on beautifully graded gravel.

The dunes have also changed character. They are becoming increasingly red, with the characteristic colours of the Kalahari becoming more pronounced.

Blogger break D1119
Namibia 2026

But this year there is something else.

Flowers.

And more and more of them.

The further south we travel, the more flowers we see scattered across the desert. In places, the normally dry landscape is surprisingly colourful.

The desert is still blooming.

How incredibly lucky we are to be here at exactly the right time.

Giants and quiver trees

 Near Quiver Tree Forest
Namibia 2026

After passing the small town of Koes, we eventually approach Keetmanshoop.

Along the way, we pass two of southern Namibia's most unusual natural attractions: Giants' Playground and the Quiver Tree Forest.

Giants' Playground is a remarkable landscape of enormous dolerite boulders, piled and balanced in seemingly impossible formations. The rocks look almost as if some enormous hand has stacked them on top of each other – hence the name. The formations are entirely natural, created through geological processes and prolonged weathering and erosion.

Just a few kilometres away lies the famous Quiver Tree Forest, a natural concentration of Aloidendron dichotomum, commonly known as quiver trees or kokerboom. The trees are actually giant succulents rather than true trees, and some of the specimens are several centuries old. The San traditionally hollowed out the branches to make quivers for their arrows, which explains the English name.

We visited both places back in 2009, when our children were just nine and ten years old.

We still have vivid memories of the strange rock formations and, in particular, the many spectacular quiver trees.

But we still have a very long drive ahead of us today, so we decide not to stop for a proper visit this time.

Instead, we simply admire the landscape from the road and pull over briefly on the roadside.

Sometimes it is enough just to see an old familiar landscape again.

Heading into the south

When we reach Keetmanshoop, we decide not to drive into the town itself, as we did some weeks earlier with my brother and sister-in-law on the way to Klein-Aus Vista (link).

Instead, we continue directly towards the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

Turning south onto the C12
Namibia 2026

In far distance,
we begin to see mountain ranges
Namibia 2026

After turning south onto the C12, the landscape changes once again.

The open desert seems to stretch endlessly in every direction.

There are even more flowers now, and in the far distance we begin to see mountain ranges.

At first, they are barely visible on the horizon.

But as we continue south, they become more distinct, rising gradually above the enormous plains.

Flowers and mountains more distinct
Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

We cross below Naute Dam
Namibia 2026

The landscape is becoming increasingly dramatic.

We eventually turn onto the C37 for the final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park.

Final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

The views become more and more spectacular.

Gondwana Canyon Park is an enormous private conservation area covering approximately 1,160 km², or 116,000 hectares – about 27% of the area of Denmark – surrounding the Fish River Canyon. The area has been developed around the idea of combining conservation, landscape restoration and tourism, and wildlife such as plains zebra, wildebeest, red hartebeest and giraffe has been reintroduced.

It is a fitting landscape for the next chapter of our journey.

Finally – Canyon Lodge

Canyon Lodge front
Namibia 2026

And finally, we arrive at our destination.

Canyon Lodge.

The lodge lies among enormous granite boulders within Gondwana Canyon Park, approximately 20 kilometres east of the Fish River Canyon. The stone chalets are scattered between the rocks, and the setting is spectacularly remote.

We are going to stay here for three nights.

We have visited the Fish River Canyon twice before – in 2022 (link) and a few weeks ago with my brother and sister-in-law (link) – but both times from the western side.

This time, we are going to explore it from the eastern side, around Hobas.

After the long drive from the Kalahari, it feels good to finally arrive.

The car has done another very long day, but the journey itself has been an experience.

And tomorrow, we will finally get to see what the Fish River Canyon looks like from this side.

We are very much looking forward to the next few days.

Outpost Safari Lodge – Our Own Luxury Hideaway in the Kalahari

 

Outpost Safari Lodge, On top of sand dune
Kalahari Desert, Namibia 2026

An Unexpected Detour

Five hours of driving south-east
through the Kalahari Desert
Namibai 2026

After five hours of driving south-east through the Kalahari Desert, repeatedly crossing the enormous north–south dune ridges, we are getting close to Outpost Safari Lodge.

We are going to stay here for four nights, but we have absolutely no idea what awaits us.

We have never been here before.

The lodge is situated in the far south-eastern part of Namibia, close to the area where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet, in the heart of the Kalahari. Outpost itself lies on more than around 16,000 hectares of Kalahari wilderness.

Our original plan was actually to drive directly to neigbouring Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, where my then 15-year-old son and I had an unforgettable father-and-son trip in 2015. We stayed in the remote Wilderness Cabins in the desert (link).

Kgalagadi is also where my wife and I had one of our most memorable 4x4 adventures in 2024, driving 214 kilometres of sandy tracks through the Kalahari dunes with a wonderful group of South Africans and an excellent guide on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail (link).

This time, however, everything in Kgalagadi was booked.

Even though I was online the very morning bookings opened.

Clearly, some people have better connections to SANParks than we do.

The Search for an Alternative

So I started looking for an alternative in the same area.

After quite a bit of searching, I came across the website of Outpost Safaris (link). It looked beautiful, it was in exactly the right area — but I had never heard of the place before.

Outpost describes itself as being located on more than 40,000 acres where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet, in the heart of the Kalahari Desert. The family behind the lodge has generations of roots in the Kalahari and describes its philosophy as making guests feel less like customers and more like part of the family.

It sounded promising.

Now we are about to find out.

Into the Unknown

Entrance gate, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

We arrive at the entrance gate in the afternoon.

There is nobody there to meet us, presumably because our exact arrival time was uncertain.

In a way, this gives us an opportunity for a first little adventure.

We have received instructions from Outpost: engage four-wheel drive and “keep to the left of the track” towards the lodge.

It soon becomes obvious that we are entering what appears to be completely deserted territory.

The track is a narrow, wonderfully adventurous sandy trail, with the surrounding grass constantly trying to reclaim it. A surprisingly high ridge of sand runs down the middle, but fortunately it is soft enough not to cause any damage underneath the Hilux.

So off we go.

We don't meet a soul.

Well, almost.

A large group of sable antelope stands out in the open grassland, watching us carefully as we pass. We also see the occasional impala and springbok.

A large group of sable antelope
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

There is an extraordinary sense of solitude.

And, inevitably, I start thinking about what our strategy would be if we happened to take the wrong track.

There are occasional side tracks, and some are not particularly obvious.

Fortunately, we have GPS reception everywhere, Tracks4Africa downloaded on the phone and, as a final safety net, a satellite phone.

So even if we get completely lost, we know exactly where the blue dot is.

Which is reassuring.

Our track, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

A Slightly Embarrassing Start

The Hilux is struggling a little in the soft sand.

This surprises me.

Then I realise why.

We haven't actually engaged four-wheel drive.

A small but rather important detail.

The difference is immediate.

It is slightly amusing that we have started this new little Kalahari adventure in two-wheel drive, with tyre pressures still at around 1.8 bar — perfectly reasonable for gravel roads, but not ideal for soft sand.

Our plan B is to reduce the pressure to around 1.3 bar if things become more difficult. We know from previous experience that this makes an enormous difference in really soft sand.

And if that doesn't work, we have the high-lift jack and sandboards mounted on the vehicle.

So we are reasonably well prepared.

At least theoretically.

Wrong Track

Tracks in Kalahari,
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

After perhaps five kilometres, we reach a lonely steel-sheeted shed or outbuilding.

There is a vehicle parked outside, but not a single person in sight.

We decide to continue.

Keep left.

A little further on, we reach a small house where two African women are sitting outside.

This is clearly not Outpost Safari Lodge.

I ask:

“Outpost?”

One of the women kindly explains that we have to drive back to the shed and take the other track.

Exactly what she means by “the other track” is not entirely clear to me.

But it is obvious that we are in the wrong place.

As so often in Namibia, however, the people we encounter are friendly and helpful, and we turn around.

Back at the shed, we find what we now hope is the correct track.

And then, suddenly, we see buildings on top of a small dune to our right.

There is a sign: Dune House.

Dune House near Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

It turns out to be another accommodation option operated by Outpost Safaris. It is spectacularly situated, completely isolated and overlooking the Kalahari.

I get out and look for someone.

Nobody.

So we continue.

Third time lucky.

And then, in the distance, we finally see it.

Outpost Safari Lodge
Our room right ground floor
Namibia 2026

A large, beautiful building clad in green canvas, majestically perched on top of a sand dune.

Surely this must be it.

Finally – Outpost

We drive towards the top of the dune and park the Toyota Hilux in front of the lodge.

Initially, there is nobody in sight.

But the front door is wide open.

We step inside.

And there we meet Elize, who turns out to be our wonderfully friendly and competent host.

Elize, our friendly & competent host
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

She hadn't heard the car arriving.

But she certainly knew we were coming.

Fresh orange juice is already waiting in champagne glasses, together with a tray filled with homemade snacks and all sorts of delicious treats.

We were expected after all.

And within seconds, we feel completely welcome.

More importantly, we are enormously relieved to have finally found the place.

Our Own Luxury Lodge

Our room from the terrasse
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Elize shows us to our room.

When we open the door, it exceeds our wildest expectations.

It is enormous.

The room is raised on stilts above the Kalahari, with two huge beds pushed together in the middle, covered with an almost absurd number of cushions.

From the bed there is a magnificent view across the Kalahari and out onto our private terrace.

And there, waiting for us, are wine glasses and an ice bucket.

Naturally.

Two huge beds in our room
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Next to the bed is a beautiful masonry fireplace, meaning that we can lie under the duvet at night and watch the flames while the temperature drops outside.

Behind the sleeping area is an enormous classic English-style bathtub.

And next to it, naturally, a bottle of champagne waiting on ice.

Champagne waiting on ice
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

There are bath salts and herbs for the tub, a beautiful glass shower enclosure and double washbasins — allowing us, in theory, to brush our teeth at the same time.

The whole room is beautifully designed, luxurious without being flashy, and filled with small details that show how much thought has gone into the place.

Bravo.

A Lodge in the Wilderness

Inside Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

It quickly becomes apparent that we have, for all practical purposes, our own large luxury lodge in the middle of the Kalahari.

Nothing seems to be missing.

The main lodge has only four rooms, and its elevated position on the top of a sand dune provides sweeping views across the Kalahari and towards the waterhole below.

All our meals are prepared by Elize and her two assistants in the kitchen.

And they are extraordinary.

Three-course dinners appear every evening, accompanied by homemade cakes and other treats during the day.

In front of the main building is a large terrace with a fire pit and plunge pool, overlooking the waterhole below the dune, where animals come to drink.

Inside, there are large, heavy and beautiful wooden pieces of furniture with enormous cushions.

Huge chimney structure
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Two masonry fireplaces merge into a huge chimney structure rising perhaps 10–12 metres above us.

There is also a help-yourself bar, with a fine selection of water, wine and spirits.

Next to the main lodge is a large sun lounge built on stilts, furnished with comfortable chairs and an assortment of international magazines.

sun lounge built on stilts, sunset
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

We are the only guests sitting at the dining table.

It is designed for around 20 people.

Fortunately, we don't have to sit at opposite ends!

We are only guests at dining table!
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

There Is a Snake in Paradise

But, as they say, there are always snakes in paradise.

Here, however, the snake turns out to be a lion.

After our recent leopard encounter with my brother and sister-in-law (link), I had actually resigned myself to the idea that we probably wouldn't see any more of Africa's big cats on this trip.

I had forgotten one rather important detail.

We are now living next door to Kgalagadi.

It turns out that one of the park's young male lions has recently decided to go on an excursion.

Lion, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

He has dug his way underneath the fence into Outpost's enormous property.

And, if you think about it, this is perfectly understandable.

What could possibly be more tempting for a young lion than a self-service buffet, moving into a large wildlife-rich area where he is apparently the only big cat?

Our Unexpected House Lion

Wife staying close to Lodge
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

Elize advises us not to wander around outside the lodge too much.

She has just seen the lion before our arrival.

It has killed a large zebra.

And she has seen its tracks around next door Dune House.

Which, of course, happens to be precisely where I was wandering around looking for staff a short while earlier. ;-)

So it turns out that we have, somewhat unexpectedly, moved into a house with our very own lion.

We decide that we would prefer him to maintain a reasonable distance.

Very reasonable, actually.

Four Nights in the Kalahari

Plungepool at sunset, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026

What an extraordinary place we have moved into.

Outpost has completely exceeded our expectations.

We came here as an alternative because we couldn't get into Kgalagadi.

Instead, we have somehow ended up in our own private luxury hideaway in the middle of the Kalahari, surrounded by competent and kind staff, dunes, wildlife and complete silence.

And apparently, one wandering young male lion.

We are looking forward to four nights of peace, luxury and adventure.

Although perhaps with slightly less wandering around outside than we had originally planned.

Guests’ Notes from Namibia: Three Weeks, One Car, and Zero Regrets

Back: guest bloggers Benedikte & Jens (sister-in-law and brother) 
Front seat Blogger and wife, NamibRand, Namibia 2026

By Benedikte and Jens (sister-in-law and brother, first-timers, now fully converted)

Some invitations change your year. Ours came July 2025, when Blogger and Wife asked Jens and me a question that sounded simple but clearly wasn't: would we like to join them for the first three weeks of what would be their 7th trip to Namibia?

Seventh. As in: these two have now been more times to Namibia than I've been to the national museum!

We did actually consider the fabulous offer for a couple of days, while Blogger and Wife were at the remote island of Christiansø, but we decided we simply had to see for ourselves what was so special about Namibia.

Two brothers at braai (grill) 
Klein Aus Vista, Sperrgebeit
Namibia 2026

"Landscape or animals?"

NamibRand landscape
Wife, brother and blogger
Namibia 2026

The real interview question came next, and Blogger asked it with the seriousness of a man who has clearly asked it before and knows it matters: landscape, or animals?

I didn't hesitate. Landscape. I'd read Laurens van der Post's The Lost World of the Kalahari as a young woman and never quite gotten it out of my system, and then there's the small matter of sand dunes tumbling straight into the Atlantic Ocean, which is not a sentence that should be geographically possible, and yet apparently is, in Namibia.

Which is exactly where he took us. In order, roughly: the red dune chalets of Bagatelle in the Kalahari, Fish River Canyon, the edge of the Sperrgebiet diamond area and a day in Lüderitz, the legendary D707, NamibRand, Sandwich Harbour (where the dunes genuinely do meet the sea), a scenic flight over the whole lot, and finally the granite giants and ancient San rock art of the Erongo Mountains. He even smuggled in two days of wildlife at Okonjima at the very end, specifically, he told us, so his landscape-obsessed guests wouldn't go home without seeing a Namibian predator up close. That's either very generous or a small concession that "landscape or animals" was always a bit of a trick question. Possibly both.

Landscape, NamibRand, Namib Desert
Namibia 2026

A small correction for the record, since "landscape" seems to confuse people: choosing landscape over animals does not mean you see no animals. It mostly just means you skip Etosha and the other big game parks. Over three weeks we still ran into giraffes, rhinos, a leopard, a brown hyena, a string of bemused jackals, more antelope species than I can now reliably name, and a colony of sea lions and seals on the coast. What we didn't see were lions or elephants, and honestly, nobody complained. And then there are the nights: far from any town, the stars and the Milky Way are almost aggressively visible, in a way that simply no longer exists in light-polluted Europe. If landscape gets you that, animals can wait.

What we didn't fully appreciate until we were there was the discipline behind it. Blogger didn't just choose beautiful places, he chose how long we stayed in each one: two, sometimes three unhurried days per stop, no more, no less. We watched other travellers thundering past us on the same roads, clearly racing the clock to tick off every named dune, canyon and rock formation in the guidebook, while we got to just... sit. Watch the light change. Have a second coffee or a glass of wine. We probably shouldn't be surprised the pacing was this good, but we're grateful for it all the same.

Six visits in, and he still asks the question

Stars, peace and rest, NamibRand Family Hideour
Namibia 2026

During their last trip to Namibia, Blogger and Wife were joined by their two best friends and they did two 4x4s, which, as anyone who has actually driven Namibia's back-country tracks will tell you, is not a luxury but a strategy: two cars mean you can reach places one alone shouldn't attempt solo. This time it was one car, four people, and a driver who has clearly memorized every gravel pass and riverbed crossing in the country. We may have gone slightly less far off the map than the two 4x4 version of this trip. We are entirely fine with that. We got the dunes, the canyon, the silence, the stars and the Milky Way, and, as it turned out, a leopard three metres away, staring straight back at us.

What three weeks with your favourite people in their favourite country actually feels like

Dinner, NamibRand Family Hideout
All four of us
Namibia 2026

Here is the part I didn't expect going in: the trip itself was extraordinary, but the company made it. Spending three straight weeks in a car, at dinner tables, and on sundowner hills with your brother / brother-in-law and his wife could, in theory, go either way. It went entirely the right way. Blogger and Wife are simply easy to be around, good-humoured on the long driving days, endlessly patient with two relative novices, and generous with places they've clearly loved for years and didn't have to share with anyone.

Discussing the route
Sister-in-law, brother and blogger
NamibRand, Namibia 2026

There's also the small matter of who did the actual work. Blogger and Wife chose every stop, planned every logistic, and executed the whole thing; booking a chalet on a dune a year in advance, remembering which tyre pressure suits which sand, working out where the drinks fridge would be restocked next. We, meanwhile, mostly opened the car door, admired the view, and occasionally passed someone a snack. "We were just enjoying the ride" is doing a lot of quiet, comfortable work in that sentence, and we know it. Thank you for carrying all of it so we didn't have to.

We came home a week ago still slightly dusty and completely unsurprised that this is trip number seven for them. We spent three weeks wondering whether we'd understand the pull this country has on them.

We do. Entirely.

Namibia 2026

For anyone reading this who's considering their own first Namibia trip

• Decide early whether you're a "landscape" or "animals" person — Blogger will ask, and it genuinely shapes the itinerary.
• Book absurdly far ahead if there's a specific remote camp or dune chalet you want; the good ones vanish the moment reservations open, a year out.
• One 4x4 gets you a wonderful trip. Two gets you a wilder one. Both are equally fine. It’s just a question of preference.
• If someone who's been seven times invites you along, say yes, before you've even looked at the map.

Thank you, Blogger and Wife, for sharing your favourite country and your favourite places in it. We're already wondering what trip number eight looks like, - and whether we get invited.