Showing posts with label Namibia Accommodation. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Namibia Accommodation. Show all posts

Friday, 28 August 2026

Canyon Lodge – The Good, the Bad and the Overpriced


Canyon Lodge - nice location but...
Namibia 2026 


Canyon Lodge turned out to be a case of the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced. The setting was fantastic, our chalet was perfect, and the pool was almost impossible to fault, with magnificent views across Gondwana Nature Park towards the Fish River Canyon.

Unfortunately, all these wonderful elements were almost completely overshadowed by an invasion of three large groups — two of around ten people each and one of more than twenty people from the other side of the world.


And it started so well


Lodge in front of reception
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026


We were warmly greeted by a very enthusiastic guide — and, as it turned out, salesman — who showed us to reception. He told us that he would later explain all the activities and excursions available at the lodge. We never saw him again. Perhaps we had already been sold.

At reception, we were met by a very friendly hostess who completed the usual check-in formalities before assigning us Family Chalet 21. She then showed us around the lodge, including the shop, restaurant and terrace, and arranged for our luggage to be delivered to the chalet.


Family Chalet 21, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026


We opened the door to Chalet 21 and were immediately impressed. The chalet is beautifully integrated into the rocky landscape, with a huge pile of boulders rising behind it, seemingly balanced on top of one another. It reminded us a little of the Erongo Mountains [link].

The living room, bedroom and bathroom are built directly among the rocks, with large rock formations incorporated throughout the chalet. Immediately to the right as you enter is a bedroom with a double bed, separated from the second double bed by a roughly 3 x 3 metre boulder. There is a wardrobe, a small table with glasses, a coffee and tea station, a safe and everything else you could reasonably want. Everything was in immaculate condition. Nothing was missing.


The bathroom feels almost like a cave
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026


The bathroom is reached by walking down into what feels almost like a cave. There, you are greeted by a large and inviting bathtub. The whole thing is wonderfully cosy — and quite spectacular.


Pool area, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026


Once we had settled in, we also headed for the pool area, located a few hundred metres from the chalets. Sun loungers are spread across several levels of rocky terraces, overlooking a beautiful, almost infinity-style pool. Beyond it are magnificent views across the surrounding plains and mountains.


Blogger by pool area
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026


There was even Wi-Fi.

It just never worked.


The restaurant


Terrasse outside restautant
Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026


Our first dinner was a buffet in the restaurant. It was OK, but rather heavy on the meat-and-gravy side of things. The green element consisted mainly of various canned vegetables poured into bowls, which did not exactly scream culinary ambition.

Before the buffet, we were offered a choice of two starters. On both evenings we ate at the restaurant, both were distinctly underwhelming.

We were also given some warm bread when we sat down. Calling it a piece of bread would perhaps be generous — it was more or less bonsai-sized. An odd place to save money.

The staff were friendly and clearly doing their best. They were, however, fighting an uphill battle.


Night sky, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026


The second evening, things went completely off the rails.

First, we received a piece of warm bread approximately the size of a walnut, followed by a choice of two small starters. Neither was significantly larger than the bread.

Looking around the restaurant, we noticed that tables had been set for three groups: two of around ten people each and another table with more than twenty places.

The restaurant is not particularly large, and this looked like a completely hopeless project.

The first group of around ten was already sitting peacefully enjoying their dinner. Then the very large group of more than twenty arrived from the other side of the world and descended upon the relatively small restaurant.

Their guide immediately started rushing around, giving instructions to both the staff and their group members, while the latter made a beeline for the buffet — straight for the meat, naturally.

There was no sitting down first, no settling in, and apparently very little consideration for the other guests.

We were perhaps five couples sitting quietly and trying to enjoy our dinner. From that point onwards, it was obvious that nobody was enjoying the experience anymore.

We left before dessert, after pointing out that the situation was simply unacceptable. This was met with a somewhat bewildered smile and a shrug of the shoulders.

And just as we walked out the door, the other group of ten arrived.

Good luck.


Family chalet 21, good thing about Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026


This was now the second time on this trip that we had experienced an invasion of large groups at a Gondwana Lodge. The previous occasion was at The Desert Grace, where there was at least considerably more space, and where the much higher quality of the food and facilities helped to compensate (link).

Canyon Lodge simply does not have a restaurant large enough to accommodate groups of this size without seriously affecting the experience of everyone else.

Quite frankly, it is not acceptable for guests to book a year in advance and pay around NAD 8,000 per night  (430 EUR) for bed and breakfast, only to find themselves in an overcrowded and chaotic environment like this.

There is a very obvious mismatch between the price and what you actually get.

We will certainly not be returning to Canyon Lodge. And in the future, we will think twice about staying at Gondwana-branded lodges, or indeed at other properties that actively cater to large organised groups. We would much rather choose smaller, more intimate places where the experience of the individual guest actually seems to matter. An good alternative is Fish River Lodge on the other side of the Fish River Canyon , see link to our recent visit (link)


Perhaps it is the location?


Fish River Canyon, main viewpoint
20 km from Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026


Maybe this is simply what happens when you are in a spectacular location.

If you eat in Nyhavn in Copenhagen, one of Denmark's most popular tourist spots, you can be fairly certain that you will pay a high price. What you cannot be equally certain of is getting high quality in return.

Perhaps the same applies here. If you are staying right next to the Fish River Canyon or close to Sossusvlei, perhaps the location itself becomes part of the price tag.

But surely that does not have to mean that the rest of the experience is allowed to deteriorate.


Map at Canyon Lodge of
Fish River Canyon tracks
Namibia 2026

And there was one final annoyance.

At breakfast, the buffet was routinely being stripped by the groups before we arrived, and it was not properly replenished afterwards. What was left for the remaining guests were essentially the poor leftovers.

Even some of the cheapest hotels we have stayed at elsewhere manage to keep a breakfast buffet replenished.

So, yes — Canyon Lodge is a spectacular place. The setting is extraordinary, our chalet was wonderful, and the pool is fantastic.

But a beautiful location and a great chalet do not, by themselves, make a great lodge.

For us, Canyon Lodge was ultimately the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced.


Wednesday, 12 August 2026

From famous D707 road to our own little corner of the Namib Desert

 

Sundowner NamibRand Nature Reserve
Family on top of dune
Namibia 2026

Road C13 through Neisipvlakte Plains
Before turn of D707


Start of legendary D707 road
Namibia 2026


Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. The route runs between the red and ochre desert plains and the dramatic Tiras Mountains, with endless horizons and constantly changing colours. It is one of those roads where the journey really is as important as the destination.

We are actually rather surprised by the condition of the road. It appears almost freshly graded, with hardly any corrugation – a very pleasant change after some of the rougher gravel roads we have encountered.

Another thing that strikes us, as it has throughout this part of Namibia, is the complete absence of rubbish. There is simply nothing along the roadside except pristine desert stretching towards the horizon. The land is divided by numerous fences marking different farms and nature reserves, and we see everything from goats to small herds of oryx and several ostriches.


Driving along D707
Namibia 2026


We make a short stop at the entrence to Namtib Biosphere Reserve, where we stayed at Little Hunters Rest campsite with our children in 2009. It brings back wonderful memories. Back then we were travelling on a much more economical budget, in a 2WD with our own tent brought from Denmark, sleeping mats, sleeping bags and a Trangia stove. Considerably more primitive than today's setup – but somehow every bit as cosy, and certainly no less spectacular.


Blogger taking a break near Namtip
D707, Namibia 2026


Betta – the last stop before the desert

Eventually we reach the last place where we can refuel and stock up before heading into increasingly remote country: the tiny settlement of Betta.

We remember Betta from our previous visits, but it has clearly had something of a makeover. The little roadside establishment now has a fuel station, a well-stocked shop, restaurant and accommodation. It is all neat and clean, and makes an excellent stop on this otherwise very remote stretch of road. The facility has indeed developed over the years from a simple fuel station into a more comprehensive traveller's stop.


Well-stocked shop in Betta
and nice restaurant
Namibia 2026


We enjoy freshly made hot sandwiches with tomato, ham and cheese while sitting upstairs looking out over the desert. I add a strawberry milkshake to wash down the dust.

It is quite a civilized lunch stop in the middle of nowhere.

From here, there is little more than 60 kilometres to our destination.


Back to NamibRand


Blogger and brother 
Reducing tyre pressure at enterence
NamibRand, Namibia 2026


Enterence NamibRand Nature Reserve
Namibia 2026


Our destination is the NamibRand Nature Reserve, which has been one of the highlights of several previous journeys through Namibia.

The final 60 kilometres pass quickly, and soon we arrive at the entrance gate and the beginning of the roughly 10-kilometre access track to the NamibRand Family Hideout.

Before continuing, we stop to reduce the tyre pressure. We lower the tyres from 1.8 bar, which is suitable for the gravel roads, to around 1.3 bar. The lower pressure gives considerably better flotation and traction once we encounter loose sand.

And now the feeling changes completely.

We are heading into the desert.


NamibRand Nature Reserve


Sunset NamibRand Nature Reserve
"Sandboarding Dune"
Namibia 2026


NamibRand was established in 1984 as a private conservation initiative and today covers more than 215,000 hectares – approximately 2,150 km². That is about 5% of the area of Denmark (Denmark is approximately 43,000 km²). The reserve borders the Namib-Naukluft National Park to the west and forms part of the larger conservation landscape surrounding the Namib Desert.

The neighbouring Namib-Naukluft National Park is enormous by European standards, covering 49,768 km² and making it Namibia's largest national park. It encompasses an extraordinary variety of landscapes, including the great dune fields around Sossusvlei, gravel plains, mountains and ephemeral rivers.

NamibRand itself is a very different concept. It is a privately managed conservation area, established to protect the unique ecology and wildlife of the south-western Namib Desert. Its landscape encompasses sand dunes and sandy plains, gravel plains, mountains and inselbergs, creating an extraordinary mosaic of desert habitats.

One of the reserve's most remarkable achievements is perhaps something you cannot see during the day at all.


Our house, NamiobRand Family Hideout
And Milkey Way!
Namibia 2026


NamibRand was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2012 and has Gold Tier status – the highest level of recognition from the International Dark-Sky Association. It was the first such reserve in Africa and one of the first in the Global South. The reserve has deliberately limited artificial lighting and introduced strict guidelines to preserve the extraordinary darkness of the night sky.

That makes this one of the world's exceptional places for stargazing.

And fortunately, we have three nights here.


Our own farmhouse in the desert


NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout terrasse
Making plans
Namibia 2026


For the next three nights we have rented the wonderfully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in almost complete isolation in the middle of this immense landscape.

There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light.

Just silence, space and desert.

Check-in goes completely smoothly. Fortunately, they are expecting us – despite the fact that we booked the house almost a year ago. And that is probably worth knowing: you need to be quick if you want to book this place.

When we finally reach the farmhouse, we immediately understand why.

The location is extraordinary.

We have the entire place to ourselves, with three bedrooms, three toilets and two bathrooms, all surrounded by the NamibRand wilderness. There is a cosy dining room and living room with a wood-burning stove, while covered verandas on two sides of the house provide uninterrupted views towards the desert and mountains.

A lone ostrich is wandering around a couple of hundred metres from the house, occasionally stopping to look in our direction.

Perhaps it has just had a drink from the waterhole directly in front of the farmhouse.


Rustic – in the best possible way


NamibRand Family Hideout
Indoor dining table
Namibia 2006


NamibRand Family Hideout kitchen
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026


This is self-catering in the truest sense. You have to bring all your own food and drinks – something we have already learned the hard way in the previous blog post!

Fortunately, the house has everything we need: refrigerator, freezer and gas stove. Electricity comes from solar panels and is sufficient for lights and charging smaller electronic devices.

Outside, there is a partly fenced little “garden” – although garden is perhaps a generous word. It consists mostly of sand. But there is a proper fire and barbecue area, complete with everything needed for an evening around the fire.

Inside, there is plenty of crockery, glasses, cutlery, pots and pans. In other words, nothing essential is missing.


NamibRand Family Hideout
Living room
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Bathrooms / restrooms
Namibia 2026


The house is rustic, however, and that is an important part of its charm.

Do not expect a newly renovated Airbnb with designer furniture and perfectly fitting doors. Instead, expect an original farmhouse in the middle of the desert, far from everything, with the basic facilities you need to live comfortably for a few days.

The doors are crooked and stick slightly. The original windows have peeling paint. Everything shows its age.

But then there is the wood-burning stove.

It is new, and will undoubtedly become the centre of the house on the cold desert evenings.

We have booked the house with beds made up and towels provided, and everything is clean and ready for us.

Exactly as we hoped.


Three days of desert ahead

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife. We also hope to explore some of the property's 4WD tracks and, if conditions allow, perhaps climb one of the nearby mountains for panoramic views across the reserve.

This is actually our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

We have experienced it in very different ways over the years: camping with best friends at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (link), walking the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (link), and enjoying the ultimate luxury experience at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality is combined with one of Namibia's most spectacular settings (link).

This time will be different again.

No lodge.

No guide unless we choose one.

No other guests.

Just the four of us, an old farmhouse, the Namib Desert and three nights of almost complete solitude.

We cannot wait to see what the next few days will bring.


Sundowner NamibRand
Namibia 2026