Canyon Lodge – The Good, the Bad and the Overpriced

Canyon Lodge - nice location but...
Namibia 2026 

Canyon Lodge turned out to be a case of the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced. The setting was fantastic, our chalet was perfect, and the pool was almost impossible to fault, with magnificent views across Gondwana Nature Park towards the Fish River Canyon.

Unfortunately, all these wonderful elements were almost completely overshadowed by an invasion of three large groups — two of around ten people each and one of more than twenty people from the other side of the world.

And it started so well

Lodge in front of reception
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

We were warmly greeted by a very enthusiastic guide — and, as it turned out, salesman — who showed us to reception. He told us that he would later explain all the activities and excursions available at the lodge. We never saw him again. Perhaps we had already been sold.

At reception, we were met by a very friendly hostess who completed the usual check-in formalities before assigning us Family Chalet 21. She then showed us around the lodge, including the shop, restaurant and terrace, and arranged for our luggage to be delivered to the chalet.

Family Chalet 21, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

We opened the door to Chalet 21 and were immediately impressed. The chalet is beautifully integrated into the rocky landscape, with a huge pile of boulders rising behind it, seemingly balanced on top of one another. It reminded us a little of the Erongo Mountains [link].

The living room, bedroom and bathroom are built directly among the rocks, with large rock formations incorporated throughout the chalet. Immediately to the right as you enter is a bedroom with a double bed, separated from the second double bed by a roughly 3 x 3 metre boulder. There is a wardrobe, a small table with glasses, a coffee and tea station, a safe and everything else you could reasonably want. Everything was in immaculate condition. Nothing was missing.

The bathroom feels almost like a cave
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

The bathroom is reached by walking down into what feels almost like a cave. There, you are greeted by a large and inviting bathtub. The whole thing is wonderfully cosy — and quite spectacular.

Pool area, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Once we had settled in, we also headed for the pool area, located a few hundred metres from the chalets. Sun loungers are spread across several levels of rocky terraces, overlooking a beautiful, almost infinity-style pool. Beyond it are magnificent views across the surrounding plains and mountains.

Blogger by pool area
Canyon Lodge, Namibia 2026

There was even Wi-Fi.

It just never worked.

The restaurant

Terrasse outside restautant
Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Our first dinner was a buffet in the restaurant. It was OK, but rather heavy on the meat-and-gravy side of things. The green element consisted mainly of various canned vegetables poured into bowls, which did not exactly scream culinary ambition.

Before the buffet, we were offered a choice of two starters. On both evenings we ate at the restaurant, both were distinctly underwhelming.

We were also given some warm bread when we sat down. Calling it a piece of bread would perhaps be generous — it was more or less bonsai-sized. An odd place to save money.

The staff were friendly and clearly doing their best. They were, however, fighting an uphill battle.

Night sky, Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

The second evening, things went completely off the rails.

First, we received a piece of warm bread approximately the size of a walnut, followed by a choice of two small starters. Neither was significantly larger than the bread.

Looking around the restaurant, we noticed that tables had been set for three groups: two of around ten people each and another table with more than twenty places.

The restaurant is not particularly large, and this looked like a completely hopeless project.

The first group of around ten was already sitting peacefully enjoying their dinner. Then the very large group of more than twenty arrived from the other side of the world and descended upon the relatively small restaurant.

Their guide immediately started rushing around, giving instructions to both the staff and their group members, while the latter made a beeline for the buffet — straight for the meat, naturally.

There was no sitting down first, no settling in, and apparently very little consideration for the other guests.

We were perhaps five couples sitting quietly and trying to enjoy our dinner. From that point onwards, it was obvious that nobody was enjoying the experience anymore.

We left before dessert, after pointing out that the situation was simply unacceptable. This was met with a somewhat bewildered smile and a shrug of the shoulders.

And just as we walked out the door, the other group of ten arrived.

Good luck.

Family chalet 21, good thing about Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

This was now the second time on this trip that we had experienced an invasion of large groups at a Gondwana Lodge. The previous occasion was at The Desert Grace, where there was at least considerably more space, and where the much higher quality of the food and facilities helped to compensate (link).

Canyon Lodge simply does not have a restaurant large enough to accommodate groups of this size without seriously affecting the experience of everyone else.

Quite frankly, it is not acceptable for guests to book a year in advance and pay around NAD 8,000 per night  (430 EUR) for bed and breakfast, only to find themselves in an overcrowded and chaotic environment like this.

There is a very obvious mismatch between the price and what you actually get.

We will certainly not be returning to Canyon Lodge. And in the future, we will think twice about staying at Gondwana-branded lodges, or indeed at other properties that actively cater to large organised groups. We would much rather choose smaller, more intimate places where the experience of the individual guest actually seems to matter. An good alternative is Fish River Lodge on the other side of the Fish River Canyon , see link to our recent visit (link)

Perhaps it is the location?

Fish River Canyon, main viewpoint
20 km from Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Maybe this is simply what happens when you are in a spectacular location.

If you eat in Nyhavn in Copenhagen, one of Denmark's most popular tourist spots, you can be fairly certain that you will pay a high price. What you cannot be equally certain of is getting high quality in return.

Perhaps the same applies here. If you are staying right next to the Fish River Canyon or close to Sossusvlei, perhaps the location itself becomes part of the price tag.

But surely that does not have to mean that the rest of the experience is allowed to deteriorate.

Map at Canyon Lodge of
Fish River Canyon tracks
Namibia 2026

And there was one final annoyance.

At breakfast, the buffet was routinely being stripped by the groups before we arrived, and it was not properly replenished afterwards. What was left for the remaining guests were essentially the poor leftovers.

Even some of the cheapest hotels we have stayed at elsewhere manage to keep a breakfast buffet replenished.

So, yes — Canyon Lodge is a spectacular place. The setting is extraordinary, our chalet was wonderful, and the pool is fantastic.

But a beautiful location and a great chalet do not, by themselves, make a great lodge.

For us, Canyon Lodge was ultimately the good, the bad and the seriously overpriced.

//Garas 4x4 Self-Drive – An Adventure Through Gondwana Canyon Park

 

//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

Setting Out from Canyon Lodge

The day after arriving at Canyon Lodge, we decide to try the //Garas Self-Drive, a marked route of approximately 40 km through Gondwana Canyon Park, which takes around 2–3 hours to complete.

This is not described as a particularly difficult 4x4 route, but rather as a great way to experience the private conservation area independently. The route follows marked tracks through the park and connects Canyon Lodge with Canyon Roadhouse.

A4 trail map //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

At reception at Canyon Lodge, we are given a simple A4 trail map. The route is not marked on our ever-present companion, Tracks4Africa, but at least the app always shows us where Canyon Lodge is located – just in case we somehow get lost!

We set off, with my wife behind the wheel.

wife behind the wheel
Namibia 2026

A Gentle 4x4 Challenge

We are both relatively experienced 4x4 drivers, but it quickly becomes clear that the route is not technically difficult. The terrain is uneven, with plenty of rocks and, in a few places, somewhat steeper rocky sections where a dry riverbed or small tributary crosses the track.

Still, the challenges are no greater than what any reasonably capable 4x4 vehicle should be able to handle.

On the way, //Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The route takes us through the characteristic rocky landscape of Gondwana Canyon Park, with its koppies, granite formations, euphorbias and quiver trees.

Grasshoppers and Other Small Creatures

We don't encounter much large wildlife – apart from a single giraffe early in the drive and occasional springbok. But the smaller inhabitants of the park are everywhere.

Large grasshoppers suddenly leap from the vegetation as we pass, while dragonfly-like insects seem to be constantly on the move around us.

At one point, a very large grasshopper suddenly flies through the open side window and lands inside the car.

Very large grasshoppers everywhere
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

For a few seconds, there is mild panic!

Perhaps partly because we are surprised – but also because these Namibian grasshoppers are considerably larger than the ones we are used to in Denmark!

As soon as we establish that it is just a grasshopper – and not some kind of flying scorpion ;-) – calm returns to the vehicle.

And we have a good laugh.

When you are driving alone through unfamiliar terrain, you are perhaps slightly more alert than usual. Every unexpected movement or strange sound gets your attention.

We are, as we like to call it, on an adventure.

From Rocky Terrain to Open Sand

halfway along the trail, landscape
becomes more open and sandy.
Namibia 2026

The first half of the route is quite rocky, but after Dassies Poort, approximately halfway along the trail, the landscape changes. The terrain becomes more open and sandy, and the driving becomes easier.

Along the way, we pass two Wild Camps.

The first one in particular catches my attention. It looks like the perfect place to spend a night with a rooftop tent. Imagine climbing onto the roof of the vehicle in the evening and simply enjoying the solitude, the silence and the spectacular views surrounding you.

I suspect that overnight stays may be possible with permission from the lodge or Gondwana. Definitely something worth investigating another time.

A Different Side of Gondwana Canyon Park

Namaqua sandgrouse
//Garas Self-Drive
Namibia 2026

The //Garas Self-Drive has turned out to be a lovely way to experience a different side of Gondwana Canyon Park.

It has not been a technical 4x4 challenge, but that was never really the point. The pleasure lies in being out there on our own, slowly exploring the landscape and never quite knowing what we might encounter around the next bend.

A wonderful day.

Now it is time to relax at the lodge.

Tomorrow, we will finally explore the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

From the Kalahari to the Fish River Canyon – The Long Way South

 

We leave Outpost Safari Lodge early
We have a long drive to Canyon Lodge
Namibia 2026

Today we leave Outpost Safari Lodge near Unions End and embark on a very long drive all the way to Canyon Lodge, near the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon and the Hobas entrance gate.

For some time, I have wanted to explore more of the small back roads in this remote part of Namibia. On a previous journey, we had a fantastic drive along the little D1033, the “Olifants River Road” (link D1033 trip).

This time, we decide to take one of the most easterly routes possible through this part of Namibia. We follow the D1022, then the D1119 and D511, before eventually turning southeast onto the somewhat larger C17 towards the small town of Koes and onwards to Keetmanshoop.

It turns out to be a perfect plan.

Start of D1022, runs lengthwise
 between the dunes most of time
Namibia 2026

Almost nobody on the road

D1022, we meet only three other vehicles!
Freshly graded track
Namibia 2026

During the first three hours, we encounter just three other vehicles!

We initially head south on the D1022, which turns out to have been freshly graded and is in absolutely perfect condition.

And here I was, expecting loose sand and a potentially challenging 4WD drive!

Instead, the road runs lengthwise between the dunes, and only occasionally do we cross from one dune ridge to another. This creates long, straight stretches interrupted by short but beautiful climbs over the dune crests.

Road D1119, distance between
the dune ridges shorter, red sand.
Namibia 2026

When we reach the D1119, we start heading more towards the west. The distance between the dune ridges becomes shorter, and the character of the drive changes.

It gradually develops into something resembling a roller coaster ride over the now quite high dunes – still, however, on beautifully graded gravel.

The dunes have also changed character. They are becoming increasingly red, with the characteristic colours of the Kalahari becoming more pronounced.

Blogger break D1119
Namibia 2026

But this year there is something else.

Flowers.

And more and more of them.

The further south we travel, the more flowers we see scattered across the desert. In places, the normally dry landscape is surprisingly colourful.

The desert is still blooming.

How incredibly lucky we are to be here at exactly the right time.

Giants and quiver trees

 Near Quiver Tree Forest
Namibia 2026

After passing the small town of Koes, we eventually approach Keetmanshoop.

Along the way, we pass two of southern Namibia's most unusual natural attractions: Giants' Playground and the Quiver Tree Forest.

Giants' Playground is a remarkable landscape of enormous dolerite boulders, piled and balanced in seemingly impossible formations. The rocks look almost as if some enormous hand has stacked them on top of each other – hence the name. The formations are entirely natural, created through geological processes and prolonged weathering and erosion.

Just a few kilometres away lies the famous Quiver Tree Forest, a natural concentration of Aloidendron dichotomum, commonly known as quiver trees or kokerboom. The trees are actually giant succulents rather than true trees, and some of the specimens are several centuries old. The San traditionally hollowed out the branches to make quivers for their arrows, which explains the English name.

We visited both places back in 2009, when our children were just nine and ten years old.

We still have vivid memories of the strange rock formations and, in particular, the many spectacular quiver trees.

But we still have a very long drive ahead of us today, so we decide not to stop for a proper visit this time.

Instead, we simply admire the landscape from the road and pull over briefly on the roadside.

Sometimes it is enough just to see an old familiar landscape again.

Heading into the south

When we reach Keetmanshoop, we decide not to drive into the town itself, as we did some weeks earlier with my brother and sister-in-law on the way to Klein-Aus Vista (link).

Instead, we continue directly towards the eastern side of the Fish River Canyon.

Turning south onto the C12
Namibia 2026

In far distance,
we begin to see mountain ranges
Namibia 2026

After turning south onto the C12, the landscape changes once again.

The open desert seems to stretch endlessly in every direction.

There are even more flowers now, and in the far distance we begin to see mountain ranges.

At first, they are barely visible on the horizon.

But as we continue south, they become more distinct, rising gradually above the enormous plains.

Flowers and mountains more distinct
Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

We cross below Naute Dam
Namibia 2026

The landscape is becoming increasingly dramatic.

We eventually turn onto the C37 for the final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park.

Final stretch towards Gondwana Canyon Park
Namibia 2026

The views become more and more spectacular.

Gondwana Canyon Park is an enormous private conservation area covering approximately 1,160 km², or 116,000 hectares – about 27% of the area of Denmark – surrounding the Fish River Canyon. The area has been developed around the idea of combining conservation, landscape restoration and tourism, and wildlife such as plains zebra, wildebeest, red hartebeest and giraffe has been reintroduced.

It is a fitting landscape for the next chapter of our journey.

Finally – Canyon Lodge

Canyon Lodge front
Namibia 2026

And finally, we arrive at our destination.

Canyon Lodge.

The lodge lies among enormous granite boulders within Gondwana Canyon Park, approximately 20 kilometres east of the Fish River Canyon. The stone chalets are scattered between the rocks, and the setting is spectacularly remote.

We are going to stay here for three nights.

We have visited the Fish River Canyon twice before – in 2022 (link) and a few weeks ago with my brother and sister-in-law (link) – but both times from the western side.

This time, we are going to explore it from the eastern side, around Hobas.

After the long drive from the Kalahari, it feels good to finally arrive.

The car has done another very long day, but the journey itself has been an experience.

And tomorrow, we will finally get to see what the Fish River Canyon looks like from this side.

We are very much looking forward to the next few days.

The Desert Grace – A Luxurious Stop in the Desert

 

The Desert Grace bar
Namibia 2026

The Journey Through the Namib Desert

Most often excellent roads in Namibia
Grader working
Namibia 2026

We are heading towards Swakopmund, where we will cross the two spectacular mountain passes of Gaub and Kuiseb. To make the journey a little less demanding, we have decided to break it up with one luxurious overnight stop at The Desert Grace.

On our way to Desert Grace, we fill up with diesel in Sesriem. It pays to take advantage of every opportunity to refuel, even though our Toyota Hilux can manage around 1,200 kilometres with its additional tank. You simply never know when the next fuel station might have run dry.

The road along the C27 through the NamibRand Nature Reserve is exactly as corrugated as we remember it from previous journeys. The relentless shaking is somewhat softened by the sight of a large group of zebra and the spectacular scenery all around us.

The final section via the C19 from Sesriem towards Solitaire is much the same, although this time we encounter considerably more oncoming traffic. Most vehicles leave behind an enormous 500-metre-long cloud of dust, so it becomes important to react quickly and switch the ventilation system to recirculation before the dust gets inside.

The shaking on Namibia's corrugated roads is appropriately known as the “Bush Massage”. One trick is to maintain around 70–90 km/h, allowing the vehicle to float over the corrugations rather than hitting every ridge individually. You just have to remember to slow down again for the bends, some of which have the rather unfortunate characteristic of being “cambered the wrong way”, towards the edge of the road. And, of course, there are the occasional unexpected potholes and water crossings to watch out for.

All in all, though, Namibia's roads are quite remarkable — particularly considering the distances involved. The major gravel roads are generally very well maintained, and driving them is very much part of the Namibian adventure.

Arrival at The Desert Grace

Pink refrigerator, The Desert Grace
Near Solitaire, Namibia 2026

Eventually, after the shaking and the dust, we reach the turn-off to The Desert Grace and the approximately 12-kilometre private road leading to the lodge.

Here we encounter the first gimmick.

At the top of a small hill stands a completely pink refrigerator, inviting travellers to stop for a break. Pink is, as we soon discover, something of a trademark at The Desert Grace .

We park, walk up the hill and help ourselves to some homemade, ice-cold juice from the refrigerator while enjoying the view across the surrounding desert.

A charming and original idea — and a rather promising start.

The Desert Grace private road
Namibia 2026

First Impressions of the Lodge

When we arrive at The Desert Grace itself, the lodge appears almost completely isolated in the desert. Everything is beautifully maintained, carefully designed and immaculate.

As expected, we are greeted with warm, damp towels and another refreshing drink. Our rooms are not quite ready, so the staff direct us to the bar, appropriately named “One Night in Namibia”, where we settle down on the terrace.

Looking around, it is immediately clear that this is a very impressive property. The architecture and interiors are dominated by modern design and a sense of considerable luxury. Everything is spotless and maintained to an almost obsessive degree.

It is quite a contrast to our stay at the Family Hideout — perhaps precisely why it works so well as a short stop between two longer and more adventurous stays.

Our Private Desert Villas

Eventually, we are shown to our “rooms”.

In reality, they are small, completely independent little houses, situated at the end of a 200-metre-long raised concrete walkway above the surrounding terrain.

A member of staff formally sets off with our luggage on a gleaming, chrome luggage trolley.

It looks slightly surreal here in the middle of the desert.

But then again, that is part of the concept — and clearly something they have perfected here.

Towards our rooms
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

The accommodation is spectacular and in absolutely pristine condition. There isn't a speck of dust anywhere. The bathroom is enormous, with both indoor and outdoor showers, while the toilet has a direct view of the desert through a huge glass panel.

There is also a completely private terrace with its own little plunge pool.

Unfortunately, the water is decidedly chilly at this time of year.

We spend the afternoon relaxing in the sunshine on our private terrace, enjoying the luxury — and, not least, washing the accumulated dust of the desert off ourselves.

Own private plunge pool and peace
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

Our room
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

Dinner and the Group Dynamic

In the evening, dinner is served in the stylish restaurant, with enormous glass panels overlooking the desert. We are given what is probably the best table in the restaurant, with a beautiful view towards a distant ridge of red dunes.

There is, however, one cloud on the horizon.

The buffet, The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026

A large coach group with visitors from the other side of the world arrives for dinner. They are accommodated around a large communal table and, throughout the evening, there is a constant flow of people coming and going from the table, creating considerably more noise and activity than the other guests had expected in what otherwise feels like a very peaceful and exclusive lodge.

The buffet also becomes something of a spectacle. Almost immediately after arriving, several of these guests head for the meat station — while others make a beeline for the dessert section. The following morning, the same group effectively empties parts of the breakfast buffet while preparing substantial packed lunches for the day ahead, wrapping the food in napkins and packing it into their bags.

It is, in its own way, an interesting observation of how differently people can approach a communal buffet and group holiday dynamics.

But for us, the sheer size and activity of the group rather changes the atmosphere of the lodge. We later hear that large organised tour groups are a relatively regular occurrence here, and it is probably the main reason why we would choose somewhere smaller and more private next time.

Fortunately, this does not prevent us from having a very enjoyable evening.

Night Sky and Scorpion Walk

We find numerous small scorpions
Can be deadly for small children
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026

Later, we join one of the highlights of our stay: a private night-sky and scorpion walk.

Armed with UV torches, we head out into the darkness to search for scorpions among the rocks and sand while simultaneously enjoying the spectacular Namibian night sky.

And yes — the scorpions really do glow under ultraviolet light.

Our guide is exceptionally knowledgeable and pleasant, and we find numerous small scorpions during the walk. They may be tiny, but they are certainly not harmless. A sting is extremely painful and can be deadly for small children, while healthy adults will typically survive it but may endure several days of significant pain.

They are the same general type of creature that I had rather more intimate contact with during our previous journey to the Kalahari — an experience you can read about here (link).

We are enjoying the African night sky
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026

Standing beneath the enormous African night sky, surrounded by nothing but desert and darkness, is a wonderful way to end the day.

Final Thoughts

The Desert Grace near Solitaire
Nice but one cloud on the horizon
Namibia 2026

If it were not for the large organised tour group from the other side of the world, I would probably give The Desert Grace the highest possible rating as a one-night stop between Sesriem and Swakopmund.

Instead, I will settle for saying that it was a comfortable and enjoyable place to recharge our batteries — and, equally importantly, to get the desert dust out of our clothes and bodies.

For us, however, the experience also confirms that next time we would probably choose somewhere smaller and more private.

Tomorrow, we continue towards Swakopmund — with the Gaub and Kuiseb passes waiting ahead.

From famous D707 road to our own little corner of the Namib Desert

 

Sundowner NamibRand Nature Reserve
Family on top of dune
Namibia 2026

Road C13 through Neisipvlakte Plains
Before turn of D707

Start of legendary D707 road
Namibia 2026

Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. The route runs between the red and ochre desert plains and the dramatic Tiras Mountains, with endless horizons and constantly changing colours. It is one of those roads where the journey really is as important as the destination.

We are actually rather surprised by the condition of the road. It appears almost freshly graded, with hardly any corrugation – a very pleasant change after some of the rougher gravel roads we have encountered.

Another thing that strikes us, as it has throughout this part of Namibia, is the complete absence of rubbish. There is simply nothing along the roadside except pristine desert stretching towards the horizon. The land is divided by numerous fences marking different farms and nature reserves, and we see everything from goats to small herds of oryx and several ostriches.

Driving along D707
Namibia 2026

We make a short stop at the entrence to Namtib Biosphere Reserve, where we stayed at Little Hunters Rest campsite with our children in 2009. It brings back wonderful memories. Back then we were travelling on a much more economical budget, in a 2WD with our own tent brought from Denmark, sleeping mats, sleeping bags and a Trangia stove. Considerably more primitive than today's setup – but somehow every bit as cosy, and certainly no less spectacular.

Blogger taking a break near Namtip
D707, Namibia 2026

Betta – the last stop before the desert

Eventually we reach the last place where we can refuel and stock up before heading into increasingly remote country: the tiny settlement of Betta.

We remember Betta from our previous visits, but it has clearly had something of a makeover. The little roadside establishment now has a fuel station, a well-stocked shop, restaurant and accommodation. It is all neat and clean, and makes an excellent stop on this otherwise very remote stretch of road. The facility has indeed developed over the years from a simple fuel station into a more comprehensive traveller's stop.

Well-stocked shop in Betta
and nice restaurant
Namibia 2026

We enjoy freshly made hot sandwiches with tomato, ham and cheese while sitting upstairs looking out over the desert. I add a strawberry milkshake to wash down the dust.

It is quite a civilized lunch stop in the middle of nowhere.

From here, there is little more than 60 kilometres to our destination.

Back to NamibRand

Blogger and brother 
Reducing tyre pressure at enterence
NamibRand, Namibia 2026

Enterence NamibRand Nature Reserve
Namibia 2026

Our destination is the NamibRand Nature Reserve, which has been one of the highlights of several previous journeys through Namibia.

The final 60 kilometres pass quickly, and soon we arrive at the entrance gate and the beginning of the roughly 10-kilometre access track to the NamibRand Family Hideout.

Before continuing, we stop to reduce the tyre pressure. We lower the tyres from 1.8 bar, which is suitable for the gravel roads, to around 1.3 bar. The lower pressure gives considerably better flotation and traction once we encounter loose sand.

And now the feeling changes completely.

We are heading into the desert.

NamibRand Nature Reserve

Sunset NamibRand Nature Reserve
"Sandboarding Dune"
Namibia 2026

NamibRand was established in 1984 as a private conservation initiative and today covers more than 215,000 hectares – approximately 2,150 km². That is about 5% of the area of Denmark (Denmark is approximately 43,000 km²). The reserve borders the Namib-Naukluft National Park to the west and forms part of the larger conservation landscape surrounding the Namib Desert.

The neighbouring Namib-Naukluft National Park is enormous by European standards, covering 49,768 km² and making it Namibia's largest national park. It encompasses an extraordinary variety of landscapes, including the great dune fields around Sossusvlei, gravel plains, mountains and ephemeral rivers.

NamibRand itself is a very different concept. It is a privately managed conservation area, established to protect the unique ecology and wildlife of the south-western Namib Desert. Its landscape encompasses sand dunes and sandy plains, gravel plains, mountains and inselbergs, creating an extraordinary mosaic of desert habitats.

One of the reserve's most remarkable achievements is perhaps something you cannot see during the day at all.

Our house, NamiobRand Family Hideout
And Milkey Way!
Namibia 2026

NamibRand was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2012 and has Gold Tier status – the highest level of recognition from the International Dark-Sky Association. It was the first such reserve in Africa and one of the first in the Global South. The reserve has deliberately limited artificial lighting and introduced strict guidelines to preserve the extraordinary darkness of the night sky.

That makes this one of the world's exceptional places for stargazing.

And fortunately, we have three nights here.

Our own farmhouse in the desert

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout terrasse
Making plans
Namibia 2026

For the next three nights we have rented the wonderfully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in almost complete isolation in the middle of this immense landscape.

There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light.

Just silence, space and desert.

Check-in goes completely smoothly. Fortunately, they are expecting us – despite the fact that we booked the house almost a year ago. And that is probably worth knowing: you need to be quick if you want to book this place.

When we finally reach the farmhouse, we immediately understand why.

The location is extraordinary.

We have the entire place to ourselves, with three bedrooms, three toilets and two bathrooms, all surrounded by the NamibRand wilderness. There is a cosy dining room and living room with a wood-burning stove, while covered verandas on two sides of the house provide uninterrupted views towards the desert and mountains.

A lone ostrich is wandering around a couple of hundred metres from the house, occasionally stopping to look in our direction.

Perhaps it has just had a drink from the waterhole directly in front of the farmhouse.

Rustic – in the best possible way

NamibRand Family Hideout
Indoor dining table
Namibia 2006

NamibRand Family Hideout kitchen
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

This is self-catering in the truest sense. You have to bring all your own food and drinks – something we have already learned the hard way in the previous blog post!

Fortunately, the house has everything we need: refrigerator, freezer and gas stove. Electricity comes from solar panels and is sufficient for lights and charging smaller electronic devices.

Outside, there is a partly fenced little “garden” – although garden is perhaps a generous word. It consists mostly of sand. But there is a proper fire and barbecue area, complete with everything needed for an evening around the fire.

Inside, there is plenty of crockery, glasses, cutlery, pots and pans. In other words, nothing essential is missing.

NamibRand Family Hideout
Living room
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Bathrooms / restrooms
Namibia 2026

The house is rustic, however, and that is an important part of its charm.

Do not expect a newly renovated Airbnb with designer furniture and perfectly fitting doors. Instead, expect an original farmhouse in the middle of the desert, far from everything, with the basic facilities you need to live comfortably for a few days.

The doors are crooked and stick slightly. The original windows have peeling paint. Everything shows its age.

But then there is the wood-burning stove.

It is new, and will undoubtedly become the centre of the house on the cold desert evenings.

We have booked the house with beds made up and towels provided, and everything is clean and ready for us.

Exactly as we hoped.

Three days of desert ahead

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife. We also hope to explore some of the property's 4WD tracks and, if conditions allow, perhaps climb one of the nearby mountains for panoramic views across the reserve.

This is actually our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

We have experienced it in very different ways over the years: camping with best friends at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (link), walking the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (link), and enjoying the ultimate luxury experience at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality is combined with one of Namibia's most spectacular settings (link).

This time will be different again.

No lodge.

No guide unless we choose one.

No other guests.

Just the four of us, an old farmhouse, the Namib Desert and three nights of almost complete solitude.

We cannot wait to see what the next few days will bring.

Sundowner NamibRand
Namibia 2026