Guests’ Notes from Namibia: Three Weeks, One Car, and Zero Regrets

Back: guest bloggers Benedikte & Jens (sister-in-law and brother) 
Front seat Blogger and wife, NamibRand, Namibia 2026

By Benedikte and Jens (sister-in-law and brother, first-timers, now fully converted)

Some invitations change your year. Ours came July 2025, when Blogger and Wife asked Jens and me a question that sounded simple but clearly wasn't: would we like to join them for the first three weeks of what would be their 7th trip to Namibia?

Seventh. As in: these two have now been more times to Namibia than I've been to the national museum!

We did actually consider the fabulous offer for a couple of days, while Blogger and Wife were at the remote island of Christiansø, but we decided we simply had to see for ourselves what was so special about Namibia.

Two brothers at braai (grill) 
Klein Aus Vista, Sperrgebeit
Namibia 2026

"Landscape or animals?"

NamibRand landscape
Wife, brother and blogger
Namibia 2026

The real interview question came next, and Blogger asked it with the seriousness of a man who has clearly asked it before and knows it matters: landscape, or animals?

I didn't hesitate. Landscape. I'd read Laurens van der Post's The Lost World of the Kalahari as a young woman and never quite gotten it out of my system, and then there's the small matter of sand dunes tumbling straight into the Atlantic Ocean, which is not a sentence that should be geographically possible, and yet apparently is, in Namibia.

Which is exactly where he took us. In order, roughly: the red dune chalets of Bagatelle in the Kalahari, Fish River Canyon, the edge of the Sperrgebiet diamond area and a day in Lüderitz, the legendary D707, NamibRand, Sandwich Harbour (where the dunes genuinely do meet the sea), a scenic flight over the whole lot, and finally the granite giants and ancient San rock art of the Erongo Mountains. He even smuggled in two days of wildlife at Okonjima at the very end, specifically, he told us, so his landscape-obsessed guests wouldn't go home without seeing a Namibian predator up close. That's either very generous or a small concession that "landscape or animals" was always a bit of a trick question. Possibly both.

Landscape, NamibRand, Namib Desert
Namibia 2026

A small correction for the record, since "landscape" seems to confuse people: choosing landscape over animals does not mean you see no animals. It mostly just means you skip Etosha and the other big game parks. Over three weeks we still ran into giraffes, rhinos, a leopard, a brown hyena, a string of bemused jackals, more antelope species than I can now reliably name, and a colony of sea lions and seals on the coast. What we didn't see were lions or elephants, and honestly, nobody complained. And then there are the nights: far from any town, the stars and the Milky Way are almost aggressively visible, in a way that simply no longer exists in light-polluted Europe. If landscape gets you that, animals can wait.

What we didn't fully appreciate until we were there was the discipline behind it. Blogger didn't just choose beautiful places, he chose how long we stayed in each one: two, sometimes three unhurried days per stop, no more, no less. We watched other travellers thundering past us on the same roads, clearly racing the clock to tick off every named dune, canyon and rock formation in the guidebook, while we got to just... sit. Watch the light change. Have a second coffee or a glass of wine. We probably shouldn't be surprised the pacing was this good, but we're grateful for it all the same.

Six visits in, and he still asks the question

Stars, peace and rest, NamibRand Family Hideour
Namibia 2026

During their last trip to Namibia, Blogger and Wife were joined by their two best friends and they did two 4x4s, which, as anyone who has actually driven Namibia's back-country tracks will tell you, is not a luxury but a strategy: two cars mean you can reach places one alone shouldn't attempt solo. This time it was one car, four people, and a driver who has clearly memorized every gravel pass and riverbed crossing in the country. We may have gone slightly less far off the map than the two 4x4 version of this trip. We are entirely fine with that. We got the dunes, the canyon, the silence, the stars and the Milky Way, and, as it turned out, a leopard three metres away, staring straight back at us.

What three weeks with your favourite people in their favourite country actually feels like

Dinner, NamibRand Family Hideout
All four of us
Namibia 2026

Here is the part I didn't expect going in: the trip itself was extraordinary, but the company made it. Spending three straight weeks in a car, at dinner tables, and on sundowner hills with your brother / brother-in-law and his wife could, in theory, go either way. It went entirely the right way. Blogger and Wife are simply easy to be around, good-humoured on the long driving days, endlessly patient with two relative novices, and generous with places they've clearly loved for years and didn't have to share with anyone.

Discussing the route
Sister-in-law, brother and blogger
NamibRand, Namibia 2026

There's also the small matter of who did the actual work. Blogger and Wife chose every stop, planned every logistic, and executed the whole thing; booking a chalet on a dune a year in advance, remembering which tyre pressure suits which sand, working out where the drinks fridge would be restocked next. We, meanwhile, mostly opened the car door, admired the view, and occasionally passed someone a snack. "We were just enjoying the ride" is doing a lot of quiet, comfortable work in that sentence, and we know it. Thank you for carrying all of it so we didn't have to.

We came home a week ago still slightly dusty and completely unsurprised that this is trip number seven for them. We spent three weeks wondering whether we'd understand the pull this country has on them.

We do. Entirely.

Namibia 2026

For anyone reading this who's considering their own first Namibia trip

• Decide early whether you're a "landscape" or "animals" person — Blogger will ask, and it genuinely shapes the itinerary.
• Book absurdly far ahead if there's a specific remote camp or dune chalet you want; the good ones vanish the moment reservations open, a year out.
• One 4x4 gets you a wonderful trip. Two gets you a wilder one. Both are equally fine. It’s just a question of preference.
• If someone who's been seven times invites you along, say yes, before you've even looked at the map.

Thank you, Blogger and Wife, for sharing your favourite country and your favourite places in it. We're already wondering what trip number eight looks like, - and whether we get invited.

From famous D707 road to our own little corner of the Namib Desert

 

Sundowner NamibRand Nature Reserve
Family on top of dune
Namibia 2026

Road C13 through Neisipvlakte Plains
Before turn of D707

Start of legendary D707 road
Namibia 2026

Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. The route runs between the red and ochre desert plains and the dramatic Tiras Mountains, with endless horizons and constantly changing colours. It is one of those roads where the journey really is as important as the destination.

We are actually rather surprised by the condition of the road. It appears almost freshly graded, with hardly any corrugation – a very pleasant change after some of the rougher gravel roads we have encountered.

Another thing that strikes us, as it has throughout this part of Namibia, is the complete absence of rubbish. There is simply nothing along the roadside except pristine desert stretching towards the horizon. The land is divided by numerous fences marking different farms and nature reserves, and we see everything from goats to small herds of oryx and several ostriches.

Driving along D707
Namibia 2026

We make a short stop at the entrence to Namtib Biosphere Reserve, where we stayed at Little Hunters Rest campsite with our children in 2009. It brings back wonderful memories. Back then we were travelling on a much more economical budget, in a 2WD with our own tent brought from Denmark, sleeping mats, sleeping bags and a Trangia stove. Considerably more primitive than today's setup – but somehow every bit as cosy, and certainly no less spectacular.

Blogger taking a break near Namtip
D707, Namibia 2026

Betta – the last stop before the desert

Eventually we reach the last place where we can refuel and stock up before heading into increasingly remote country: the tiny settlement of Betta.

We remember Betta from our previous visits, but it has clearly had something of a makeover. The little roadside establishment now has a fuel station, a well-stocked shop, restaurant and accommodation. It is all neat and clean, and makes an excellent stop on this otherwise very remote stretch of road. The facility has indeed developed over the years from a simple fuel station into a more comprehensive traveller's stop.

Well-stocked shop in Betta
and nice restaurant
Namibia 2026

We enjoy freshly made hot sandwiches with tomato, ham and cheese while sitting upstairs looking out over the desert. I add a strawberry milkshake to wash down the dust.

It is quite a civilized lunch stop in the middle of nowhere.

From here, there is little more than 60 kilometres to our destination.

Back to NamibRand

Blogger and brother 
Reducing tyre pressure at enterence
NamibRand, Namibia 2026

Enterence NamibRand Nature Reserve
Namibia 2026

Our destination is the NamibRand Nature Reserve, which has been one of the highlights of several previous journeys through Namibia.

The final 60 kilometres pass quickly, and soon we arrive at the entrance gate and the beginning of the roughly 10-kilometre access track to the NamibRand Family Hideout.

Before continuing, we stop to reduce the tyre pressure. We lower the tyres from 1.8 bar, which is suitable for the gravel roads, to around 1.3 bar. The lower pressure gives considerably better flotation and traction once we encounter loose sand.

And now the feeling changes completely.

We are heading into the desert.

NamibRand Nature Reserve

Sunset NamibRand Nature Reserve
"Sandboarding Dune"
Namibia 2026

NamibRand was established in 1984 as a private conservation initiative and today covers more than 215,000 hectares – approximately 2,150 km². That is about 5% of the area of Denmark (Denmark is approximately 43,000 km²). The reserve borders the Namib-Naukluft National Park to the west and forms part of the larger conservation landscape surrounding the Namib Desert.

The neighbouring Namib-Naukluft National Park is enormous by European standards, covering 49,768 km² and making it Namibia's largest national park. It encompasses an extraordinary variety of landscapes, including the great dune fields around Sossusvlei, gravel plains, mountains and ephemeral rivers.

NamibRand itself is a very different concept. It is a privately managed conservation area, established to protect the unique ecology and wildlife of the south-western Namib Desert. Its landscape encompasses sand dunes and sandy plains, gravel plains, mountains and inselbergs, creating an extraordinary mosaic of desert habitats.

One of the reserve's most remarkable achievements is perhaps something you cannot see during the day at all.

Our house, NamiobRand Family Hideout
And Milkey Way!
Namibia 2026

NamibRand was designated an International Dark Sky Reserve in 2012 and has Gold Tier status – the highest level of recognition from the International Dark-Sky Association. It was the first such reserve in Africa and one of the first in the Global South. The reserve has deliberately limited artificial lighting and introduced strict guidelines to preserve the extraordinary darkness of the night sky.

That makes this one of the world's exceptional places for stargazing.

And fortunately, we have three nights here.

Our own farmhouse in the desert

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout terrasse
Making plans
Namibia 2026

For the next three nights we have rented the wonderfully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in almost complete isolation in the middle of this immense landscape.

There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light.

Just silence, space and desert.

Check-in goes completely smoothly. Fortunately, they are expecting us – despite the fact that we booked the house almost a year ago. And that is probably worth knowing: you need to be quick if you want to book this place.

When we finally reach the farmhouse, we immediately understand why.

The location is extraordinary.

We have the entire place to ourselves, with three bedrooms, three toilets and two bathrooms, all surrounded by the NamibRand wilderness. There is a cosy dining room and living room with a wood-burning stove, while covered verandas on two sides of the house provide uninterrupted views towards the desert and mountains.

A lone ostrich is wandering around a couple of hundred metres from the house, occasionally stopping to look in our direction.

Perhaps it has just had a drink from the waterhole directly in front of the farmhouse.

Rustic – in the best possible way

NamibRand Family Hideout
Indoor dining table
Namibia 2006

NamibRand Family Hideout kitchen
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Namibia 2026

This is self-catering in the truest sense. You have to bring all your own food and drinks – something we have already learned the hard way in the previous blog post!

Fortunately, the house has everything we need: refrigerator, freezer and gas stove. Electricity comes from solar panels and is sufficient for lights and charging smaller electronic devices.

Outside, there is a partly fenced little “garden” – although garden is perhaps a generous word. It consists mostly of sand. But there is a proper fire and barbecue area, complete with everything needed for an evening around the fire.

Inside, there is plenty of crockery, glasses, cutlery, pots and pans. In other words, nothing essential is missing.

NamibRand Family Hideout
Living room
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Family Hideout
Bathrooms / restrooms
Namibia 2026

The house is rustic, however, and that is an important part of its charm.

Do not expect a newly renovated Airbnb with designer furniture and perfectly fitting doors. Instead, expect an original farmhouse in the middle of the desert, far from everything, with the basic facilities you need to live comfortably for a few days.

The doors are crooked and stick slightly. The original windows have peeling paint. Everything shows its age.

But then there is the wood-burning stove.

It is new, and will undoubtedly become the centre of the house on the cold desert evenings.

We have booked the house with beds made up and towels provided, and everything is clean and ready for us.

Exactly as we hoped.

Three days of desert ahead

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife. We also hope to explore some of the property's 4WD tracks and, if conditions allow, perhaps climb one of the nearby mountains for panoramic views across the reserve.

This is actually our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

We have experienced it in very different ways over the years: camping with best friends at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (link), walking the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (link), and enjoying the ultimate luxury experience at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality is combined with one of Namibia's most spectacular settings (link).

This time will be different again.

No lodge.

No guide unless we choose one.

No other guests.

Just the four of us, an old farmhouse, the Namib Desert and three nights of almost complete solitude.

We cannot wait to see what the next few days will bring.

Sundowner NamibRand
Namibia 2026

Hiking the Schutztruppe Trail – wild horses and a desert in bloom

 

Blogger on viewpoint
Schutztruppe Trail, Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026

One of the great attractions around Klein-Aus Vista, on the edge of Tsau Khaeb National Park (Sperrgebiet area), is the choice of hiking trails, ranging from relatively easy walks to more demanding mountain routes. There are also numerous mountain-bike trails winding through the rocky landscape. The trails are clearly marked with different-coloured arrows, and information reception is available at Klein Aus Vista which can provide maps and details of the individual routes.

We are given an overview of the various possibilities on arrival and decide on the yellow-marked Schutztruppe Trail.

Schutztruppe Trail
Namibia 2026

According to the Klein-Aus Vista guide, the trail is 10.8 km long, takes approximately three hours and is graded Easy to Intermediate. It is described as a particularly varied route through the Aus Mountains, combining spectacular scenery with the fascinating historical remains of the area.

The trail starts at the Klein-Aus Vista campsite – a place that brings back memories, as we stayed here with our children back in 2009. From the campsite, we climb towards one of the high viewpoints. The trail initially follows the same section as the Vista Trail, which climbs gradually before reaching a junction and then continues up to the viewpoint. The final 400-metre climb is rewarded with a magnificent panorama over the desert plains, with the vast horizon stretching seemingly forever. From here you can also look down towards the Stone Horse, the large land-art sculpture galloping across the desert floor.

It is the perfect place for our first little break.

Wife and family
Schutztruppe Trail viewpoint
Namibia 2026

We return along the trail to the junction before continuing on the yellow route. Soon we reach a gate and enter a landscape of enormous granite boulders and dry riverbeds. A particularly beautiful section takes us through an almost alley-like row of (Pappea capensis) trees, providing some welcome shade before the trail winds onwards through the rocky terrain.

Eventually the trail joins one of the old Schutztruppe support roads. These historic tracks once connected the German positions on the western side of the Aus Mountains with water and supplies further east. During the First World War, soldiers, horses and mules used these steep and winding routes to cross the mountains.

We pause in the shade of a huge boulder for a while, enjoying the extraordinary surroundings. It is one of those places where the scale of the landscape makes you feel very small indeed.

The route then continues upwards – considerably longer and somewhat steeper than we had expected – before eventually beginning the descent towards Geisterschlucht, or Ghost Valley.

The route then continues upwards
Schutztruppe Trail
Namibia 2026

The Hudson in Ghost Valley

At the bottom of the valley we come across one of the area's strangest historical relics: an old, completely rusted Hudson Terraplane car, its bodywork still peppered with bullet holes. The story is worthy of a desert legend. 

Rusted Hudson Terraplane car
bodywork peppered with bullet holes
Namibia 2026

According to the local tale, the 1934 Hudson Terraplane car belonged to two diamond smugglers who had stolen diamonds from the nearby Sperrgebiet. They were pursued by the police and eventually caught in Geisterschlucht, where a gunfight took place. Both smugglers were killed, but the diamonds were never recovered (we did not find them). According to the legend, their ghosts still return to the valley on moonlit nights, searching for their lost treasure. The rusty, bullet-riddled car is therefore said to be the very relic of that dramatic encounter.

Whether the story is entirely true is another matter. As with so many old Namibian stories, fact and legend have become rather inseparable over the years. But standing beside the rusting Hudson, deep in this isolated valley, it is remarkably easy to believe that there might be something to the story.

Blogger and wife
Rusted Hudson Terraplane car
Namibia 2026

The wild horses of the Namib

Just after leaving the old Hudson and emerging from the valley, we suddenly spot Namibia's famous wild horses.

And what a sight.

We encounter Namibia's famous wild horses
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026

They are standing in absolutely magnificent light, with the mountains and the immense desert landscape behind them. It is one of those completely unexpected wildlife encounters that makes you stop in your tracks. How lucky can you be?

The horses of the Namib are not indigenous African wild horses but descend from domestic horses introduced by Europeans. Their precise origins have been debated for decades. The two strongest theories connect them with horses from the Kubub stud farm near Aus and with horses belonging to the South African Union forces stationed at Garub during the First World War. In 1915, a German aircraft bombed the Union camp at Garub, reportedly scattering around 1,700 grazing cavalry horses. Some of the horses may have escaped and never been recaptured.

The Kubub theory is particularly intriguing. Emil Kreplin, a former mayor of Lüderitz, operated a stud farm at Kubub and bred both workhorses and racehorses. Historical photographs show striking similarities between some of these horses and today's Namib horses. Over time, abandoned and escaped horses are thought to have moved towards the permanent water supply at Garub, where they gradually established the free-ranging population we know today.

Namibia's famous wild horses
Klein Aus Vista
 Namibia 2026

Their survival in such an extreme environment is remarkable. They have adapted to an arid landscape where water and grazing are both scarce, and the population has repeatedly been reduced by severe drought and predation. The Klein-Aus Vista booklet notes that the population declined dramatically during a period of drought and spotted-hyena predation, from around 190 animals to only 74 while the Stone Horse land-art project was being created.

The horses have therefore become much more than simply an unusual attraction. They are a symbol of survival and adaptation in one of the harshest environments imaginable.

And seeing them here, unexpectedly and in such perfect light, makes the encounter all the more special.

A desert in bloom

Flowers on the  Schutztruppe Trail
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026

The walk takes us considerably longer than the three hours suggested in the booklet – although that is hardly surprising. We stop constantly to enjoy the view and take photos.

The landscape is simply too beautiful to hurry through.

Following good winter rainfall, the normally austere desert can be transformed almost beyond recognition. Tiny succulents and other desert plants burst into flower, creating carpets of pink, purple, yellow and white between the rocks. The area around Aus is exceptionally biodiverse despite receiving only around 80–90 mm of rain annually. It lies at the meeting point of three biomes – the Southern Namib Desert, Nama Karoo and Succulent Karoo – while differences in rainfall, slopes, soils and rock formations create an extraordinary diversity of habitats. Many of the plants and animals are endemic to the region. 

Flowers on the  Schutztruppe Trail
Klein Aus Vista, Namibia 2026

This is the famous Namibian desert flower spectacle, and we are lucky enough to experience it at its best. We take far too many photographs of flowers that are tiny and easy to overlook under normal circumstances, but which, after rain, transform the entire landscape.

It is one of the great pleasures of travelling in Namibia: learning to look down as well as across.

A landscape shaped by time

For the nerds, the scenery around Klein-Aus Vista is not simply beautiful – it is extraordinarily old.

The Aus Mountains form part of the ancient Namaqualand Metamorphic Complex, with geological formations dating back roughly two billion years. Around Klein-Aus Vista, the rocks include granitic gneisses, pink quartz-feldspar rocks, quartz veins, biotite schists and amphibolites. The rounded granite boulders are particularly characteristic and have been shaped over immense periods by weathering.

The desert climate continues to shape the landscape today. Strong winds carry sand from the surrounding plains, while intense temperature differences between day and night cause rocks to expand and contract. Layers of rock gradually peel away in a process known as onion-skin weathering, producing the rounded boulders and sculptural rock formations that are so characteristic of Klein-Aus Vista. 

Eagels Nest, Klein Aus Vista
Rounded boulders & sculptural rocks
Namibia 2026

The result is a remarkable combination of bare rock, dry riverbeds, mountain slopes, isolated trees and succulents – seemingly barren at first glance, but actually supporting a surprisingly rich ecosystem.

And this is perhaps what makes walking here so rewarding. The landscape is vast, but the really interesting things are often very small.

After 11 kilometres of walking, countless photographs and more stops than we can remember, we finally make it back to the campsite and our car before driving the 7 km to Eagels Nest.

It has been an excellent way to get some exercise after all those hours spent sitting in the car.

And after a long walk through the mountains, our grilled dinner tastes especially good that evening.

Blogger and wife relaxing at The Boulder
Waiting for braai and sunset
Namibia 2026

Sunset from the terrasse The Boulder
Eagels Nest, Klein Aus Vista
Namibia 2026

NamibRand Nature Reserve, One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth, part 3

 

NamibRand Nature Reserve,
Namibia 2022

Leaving the former Sperrgebiet behind, we continue north along the legendary D707, a road that consistently ranks among Namibia's most scenic drives. Winding through endless desert plains beneath towering mountain ranges and colourful sand dunes, it is one of those roads where every bend reveals another breathtaking landscape.

Our destination is NamibRand Nature Reserve, which may well become the highlight of this journey.

Established in 1984, NamibRand is one of Africa's largest private nature reserves, covering more than 215,000 hectares along the eastern boundary of Namib-Naukluft National Park. Its commitment to conservation and remarkably low levels of light pollution earned it designation as one of the world's first International Dark Sky Reserves, making it one of the finest places on Earth to experience the night sky.

For the next three nights we have rented the beautifully secluded NamibRand Family Hideout, a former farmhouse standing in complete isolation amidst the vast desert landscape. There will be no neighbours, no traffic and virtually no artificial light—only silence, endless space and spectacular scenery.

During our stay we have planned a four-hour nature drive to learn more about the reserve's remarkable flora and wildlife, and we also hope to explore the property's excellent 4WD trails. If conditions allow, we may even climb one of the nearby mountains to enjoy panoramic views across this extraordinary landscape.

This will actually be our fourth visit to NamibRand, a place that continues to captivate us no matter how many times we return.

 

4 hours nature drive, NamibRand,
Namibia 2022

Over the years we have experienced the reserve in very different ways. We have camped at the wonderfully remote Venus Campsite (Camping 2024), walked the unforgettable Tok Tokkie Trails, sleeping beneath the stars in open-air desert beds (Tok Tokkie Trails 2022), and enjoyed the ultimate luxury at Wolwedans Desert Lodge, where exceptional hospitality matches the spectacular surroundings (Wolwedans 2022).

During that stay, I also climbed Mount Loosberg, the highest peak within the reserve. It was one of the most demanding hikes I have undertaken in Namibia and remains an unforgettable experience. If you are considering following in my footsteps, I would strongly recommend reading my account first—it is certainly not a hike to underestimate (Trek Loosberg).

Tok Tokkie Trails & Namib desert

Bedroom Tok Tokkie Trails

We arrive at the Tok Tokkie reception after some wonderful days around BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse (link). When we look around, we are surrounded by mountains in all directions. We are in the Namibrand Nature Reserve, which is located in the Namib Desert. This should be the largest desert in the world?! It´s 2000 km in length and 100 km in width, and it only receives 100 mm rain per year, although some years no rain at all. It´s also supposed to be the oldest desert in the world (however that is determined?).

The next 3 days (2 nights), we expect extreme temperatures and spectacular nature when we cover approx. 20 km on foot. We come well prepared, first thanks to a very experienced guide who has done this tour numerous times, but also thanks to high factor sunscreen, good walking boots, lots of water, and a positive attitude. 

Tok Tokkie Trails, view desert

Before heading into the desert, we visit a place called “NaDEET Centre” which focus on sustainable living. The centre was awarded with the UNESCO price in 2018 for their extraordinary work teaching Namibian schoolchildren how to save the sparse resources. It´s an extraordinary place and worth a visit.   

NaDEET Centre, Tok Tokkie Trails

Late afternoon, we leave the Tok Tokkie reception. We have about 1,5 hour walk for our first overnight camp, the “Horseshoe Camp”. We drive to the starting point, eight persons in total. Beside my wife and I, a couple from Switzerland and two couples from France. All wonderful people. During the whole 3 days (2 nights) trip, our experienced guide Sebastian shows us big and small things in the desert; plants, animals, insects, tracks, etc. A bit like our tour at Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail (link) although more sand and less stones.

On the way to the starting point, Tok Tokkie Trails

The surroundings are magnificent. Red sand everywhere, with scattered trees and mountains in the distance. We line up one behind the other when we climb dunes in the heath.

Landscape, Tok Tokkie Trails

When we reach Horseshoe Camp, the table is set for dinner!

 Set for dinner, Tok Tokkie Trails

We are shown our “open AirB&B bedroom" in a private sand dune. We have two simple field beds with bedrolls. In addition, a bag of water serve as a sink as well as "racks" and "tables" to keep luggage above ground in consideration of snakes and scorpions.

Demonstration bedroom, Tok Tokkie Trails

Bedroom, Horseshoe Camp, Tok Tokkie Trails

Before dinner, we get the mandatory sundowner G&T with a view of the desert. The chef prepares our dinner, which is eaten under the starry sky to the sounds of the desert, especially geckos. We are lucky to have an unobstructed view of the starry sky and Milky Way.

Sebastian points out the Southern Cross, Jupiter and two galaxies. This is a UNESCO "dark sky" area with no disturbing light for several hundred kilometers around.

UNESCO "dark sky" area,
Tok Tokkie Trails

After dinner, we crawl into shelter in our lovely bedrolls, which consist of a waterproof bivouac cover with bedding inside. You lie comfortably protected, high above the ground. “Biological errands” are done at a nearby dry dump with an unobstructed view of the desert.

It is fantastic to sleep in the open air on the back with an unobstructed view of the starry sky. In this area, there are i.e. leopards and hyenas, but luckily they keep their distance from humans (and we don't wander around at night)

The next morning, we are awakened with coffee at the bed (!) at 06.00. At 06.30, breakfast is ready. At 07.30, we venture into the desert towards a mountain pass.

Coffee at the bed, Tok Tokkie Trails 

View from bedroom, Tok Tokkie Trails

On our way 2nd day, Tok Tokkie Trails

Mountain pass, Tok Tokkie Trails

After approx. 4 hours, we reach our lunch and siesta place on the other side of the pass. Here, we enjoy a 4-hour break in the middle of the day, as it is too hot to hike at this time. All eight of us + guide sleep in in the comfortable deck chairs under a canvas, next to a large tree below a mountain range. One of the very few large trees we see on this part of the trip.

Siesta in middle of 2nd day, Tok Tokkie Trails

At the end of the day, the temperature has dropped to below 30C so we can walk the last 2 hours to “Dune Camp”. An equally enchanting camp in the middle of the red dunes. 

Tok Tokkie Trails, near 2nd camp

We have another delicious dinner, but now under cloudy sky with a few drops of rain - a very rare event in the Namib Desert. 

Before dinner, we take a bath in the primitive shower cabin with "bucket shower" and unobstructed view of an Oryx passing by. An assistant guide provides perfectly tempered water (!). This is truly luxury in the desert.

Bucket shover, Tok Tokkie Trails

We enjoy the time with the other guests. It is a privilege and pleasure to meet people from all over the world. We are encouraged to jump from dunes together while photo memories from Tok Tokkie are taken.

Tok Tokkie Trails group of 8 persons

The two of us ;-)

At night, we hear a herd of hyenas passing by. Sebastian is ready with a flashlight, so they avoid the
camp. We both sleep like babies...

Bedroom 2nd camp, Tok Tokkie Trails

Last day, approx. two hour walk back to reception through the red dunes. An adventurous trip is complete. We just manage to see a snake before the end of the trip, the "Namib Sand Snake". It´s harmless.

 "Namib Sand Snake" Tok Tokkie Trails

Tok Tokkie Trails comes with our best recommendation! Also, our guide Sebastian & helpers, our Chef Tiresa and the assistant guide Stefan.

Tok Tokkie Trails 2022