Showing posts with label Sossusvlei. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sossusvlei. Show all posts

Saturday, 15 August 2026

Sossusfly – Namibia from Above


We are heading on a scenic flight
 "Sossusfly"
Namibia 2026

Namibia from Above

This time, we have decided to see Namibia from a rather different perspective and booked perhaps the most popular scenic flight in Namibia, the “SOSSUSfly”, also known as the “Sossus Scenic”.

We are going to fly for approximately 2 hours and 10 minutes, covering around 630 kilometres in our own chartered Cessna 210. According to Sossusfly, less than 20% of the route can be seen when travelling by road.

We have already driven an enormous amount in Namibia — probably more than 30,000 kilometres over our various journeys — reaching some of the most remote corners of the country. But this flight will take us over vast areas of the ancient Namib Desert that are far beyond any drivable route, as well as the southern Skeleton Coast, much of which is normally difficult to access.

One of the most exciting aspects is that we will follow the green ribbon of the Kuiseb River inland towards the Kuiseb Canyon, before crossing the desert at very low altitude and heading north along the Atlantic coast.

We visited Sandwich Harbour from the ground only yesterday (link).

Today, we are going to see it from above.


Before Take-off


Pre flight breefing
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026

Our route, the red one
Sossusfly, Swakopmund
Namibia 2026


We are collected in the late afternoon from our chalets at The Stiltz and driven to Swakopmund Airport.

All four of us are excited. After all, it is not every day that you get to undertake an adventure like this.

At the airport there is plenty of activity. Small aircraft are landing and taking off, while some passengers are preparing for skydiving.

I notice our pilot checking the fuel quantity in both wings.

He remembers to screw the fuel caps back on.

Good start!


We are ready for depature
Namibia 2026


Before departure, we have provided our individual weights and signed a declaration which, I suspect, probably exempts the airline from almost everything that could possibly happen to us. ;-)

There is also one final opportunity for a biological break.

There is no toilet on this little aircraft, and certainly no stewardess.

Although, technically, I suppose I am the stewardess.

I am sitting at the back, where I can reach the small luggage compartment containing our drinks and other essentials.

My wife and sister-in-law occupy the middle seats, while my brother gets the prestigious seat next to the pilot.


My brother in copilot seat
Namibia 2026 


He has everything necessary to fly the aircraft.

He just doesn't know what any of it does.

We hope he learns quickly in the event of an emergency!


Following the Kuiseb River


Below us is the Kuiseb River,
Namibia 2026


We take off smoothly from Swakopmund and head towards Walvis Bay before turning inland, following much the same route as the one we drove two days earlier.

Below us is the Kuiseb River, mostly a dry riverbed, but with groundwater and good rainfall over the last two years sustaining a remarkable diversity of plants and animals in this extraordinarily arid environment. The river's groundwater also plays an important role in supplying the coastal settlements.

From above, the contrast is astonishing: the apparently barren desert is suddenly intersected by a narrow, greenish ribbon of life. It also looks spectacular where green meets desert, sometimes in a very sharp contrast (see photo I).

We also see the Kuiseb Delta, which we explored from ground level only yesterday.


Kuiseb Delta
Namibia 2026


It is fascinating to see how the landscape we experienced from a Land Rover is transformed completely from the air.

At one point, the second Cessna that took off with us crosses back and forth over our aircraft — sometimes above us, sometimes below us — before suddenly diving off to one side.

I can understand why they looked slightly pale when we saw them again at the airport later!


Second Cessna that took off with us
Namibia 2026


The Sossusvlei Dunes from Above

We continue towards the famous Sossusvlei area.

The wind-sculpted dunes around Sossusvlei are among Namibia's most spectacular natural features, with some dunes rising more than 300 metres. Big Daddy, between Sossusvlei and Deadvlei, is around 325 metres high.

At the heart of the landscape lies Sossusvlei itself, a vast clay pan that only very occasionally fills with water after exceptional rainfall. Nearby are smaller pans such as Hidden Vlei and Deadvlei, the latter famous for its ancient, dead camel-thorn trees.


Sossusvlei area from above
Namibia 2026


We have visited these places several times before (link), but seeing them from the air is something completely different.

The enormous dunes stretch endlessly in every direction, their shapes and colours constantly changing with the angle of the late-afternoon sun.

And the shadows!

The low sun creates long, sharply defined shadows along the ridges, emphasising the contours of the dunes in a way that is almost impossible to appreciate from ground level.


Shadows along the ridges
Namibia 2026


Across the Endless Namib


 Endless desert heading for the coast
Namibia 2026


Now comes a long flight across seemingly endless desert.

For kilometres, the dunes form remarkably regular lines, arranged broadly perpendicular to the prevailing winds like enormous parallel sand ridges.

We cross roughly 120 kilometres of desert.

Looking down at this immense wilderness, it is easy to understand how unforgiving the Skeleton Coast must have been for shipwrecked sailors in the past. From the coast, there was essentially an enormous desert between them and any meaningful chance of reaching civilisation.

It is not difficult to understand where the name Skeleton Coast came from.


The Diamond Camps


One of the dimond camps
Difficult to really see
Namibia 2026


We eventually reach the old diamond camps — Charlottenfelder, Holsatia and Conception — the last remains of the diamond-rush era in the northern Diamond Area.

From the air, it is surprisingly difficult to see much of them, even though we fly very low over the area.

If you are lucky — and quick with the camera — you can spot the remains of A-frame shacks, house ruins, an old ox wagon, rusty water pipes, wooden barrels and abandoned mining equipment. They are the remnants of a remarkably tough chapter in Namibia's history, when diamond mining dominated this remote and inhospitable landscape.

The mining settlements were eventually abandoned in the late 1930s.

Shortly before reaching the ocean, we pass a series of coastal lagoons filled with large groups of flamingos.

Another spectacular sight from the air.


Coastal lagoon with large groups of flamingos
Namibia 2026


The Eduard Bohlen and the Skeleton Coast


 The lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen
Namibia 2026


We now reach another of the highlights of the flight.

After flying very low over the final dunes separating the Namib from the Atlantic, we see the lonely wreck of the Eduard Bohlen.

From the air, this is about as close as most people will ever get to this famous shipwreck.

The Eduard Bohlen was a passenger liner of the Woermann Line and later a supply ship serving the diamond camps. It ran aground at Conception Bay in 1909 and has remained stranded there ever since.

We turn north along the Skeleton Coast and soon see another wreck, the Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976.


Shawnee, which ran aground in 1976
Namibia 2026


Two ships, two stories and a spectacularly unforgiving coastline.

We also pass large colonies of Cape fur seals.

From the air, they appear completely undisturbed, occupying the remote coastline far from roads, people and tourist vehicles.


Colonies of Cape fur seals
Namibia 2026


Sandwich Harbour from Above


spot some of the vehicles
undertaking the same tour we did yesterday
Namibia 2026


Eventually, we reach Sandwich Harbour — the scene of our spectacular adventure only yesterday (link).

Wedged between the Namib Sand Sea and the Atlantic Ocean, Sandwich Harbour is a unique coastal wetland consisting of a northern freshwater wetland and southern mudflats. It is an internationally important wetland and an important refuge for large numbers of waterbirds.

It is quite surreal to see the entire area from above after spending most of yesterday bouncing around it in a Land Rover.

We can even spot some of the vehicles undertaking the same tour we did yesterday.

From this altitude, they are almost ridiculously tiny.

The enormous dunes make the Land Rovers look like miniature toy cars crawling through a sea of sand.


Salt, Flamingos and Walvis Bay


Salt works south of Walvis Bay, rectangular ponds
Namibia 2026


We continue towards the Kuiseb Delta, with its distinctive “hammock dunes”, before reaching the enormous salt works south of Walvis Bay.

From above, the salt pans form an extraordinary geometric pattern of rectangular ponds.

Some of the ponds are vividly pink and red, caused by algae and other microorganisms living in the highly saline water. These colours also contribute to the spectacular appearance of the flamingos that feed in the surrounding wetlands.

The salt works produce hundreds of thousands of tonnes of salt annually for industrial and food use.


Enormous salt works S of Walvis Bay
Namibia 2026


We then fly along the coast of Walvis Bay.

Walvis Bay, once under British and then South African administration, was re-integrated into independent Namibia on 1 March 1994. Today it is Namibia's major deep-water port and an important commercial centre on the Atlantic coast.

Once again, we see large numbers of flamingos around the lagoon.

We saw many of them yesterday.

But from above, the birds, lagoon and surrounding salt pans form an entirely different spectacle.


Walwis Bay, Namibia's major deep-water port
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund from the Air


Swakop and our own little chalets on stilts
 at The Stiltz, lower right corner
Namibia 2026


Finally, we approach Swakopmund.

And there, below us, are our own little chalets on stilts at The Stiltz.

We can even see the pier where we had dinner at The Tug the previous evening.


The pier where we had dinner at The Tug
Namibia 2026


Further along the coast is the newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar, where we are going for dinner tonight.


The newer waterfront area around Ocean Cellar
Namibia 2026


Swakopmund is truly beautiful from the air, particularly in the warm light of the setting sun.

The old German colonial buildings dominate the historic centre, standing in striking contrast to the enormous arid landscape surrounding the town.

But from above we also discover something we had barely noticed from ground level: an enormous amount of new development spreading inland from the old town.

It is quite a different perspective on a place we thought we already knew well.


Back to Earth


We have viewed familiar places
 from an entirely new perspective!
Namibia 2026


We turn inland and begin our final approach to Swakopmund Airport.

One last look at the rather rough-and-ready settlement around the airport, and then our pilot smoothly puts the wheels back on the ground.

It is over.

Two hours and approximately 630 kilometres have passed almost unbelievably quickly.

We have seen parts of Namibia that would otherwise have remained completely inaccessible to us, and we have viewed familiar places from an entirely new perspective.

The experience has exceeded our already high expectations.

We feel incredibly privileged.

If you are tempted to do the same journey, you can read more about the Sossusfly and its current route here (link). Sossusfly itself describes it as its most popular scenic flight, covering approximately 630 kilometres in around 2 hours and 10 minutes, with less than 20% of the route visible by road.

There is certainly plenty to talk about over dinner at Ocean Cellar that evening.

Friday, 14 August 2026

The Desert Grace – A Luxurious Stop in the Desert

 

The Desert Grace bar
Namibia 2026

The Journey Through the Namib Desert


Most often excellent roads in Namibia
Grader working
Namibia 2026


We are heading towards Swakopmund, where we will cross the two spectacular mountain passes of Gaub and Kuiseb. To make the journey a little less demanding, we have decided to break it up with one luxurious overnight stop at The Desert Grace.

On our way to Desert Grace, we fill up with diesel in Sesriem. It pays to take advantage of every opportunity to refuel, even though our Toyota Hilux can manage around 1,200 kilometres with its additional tank. You simply never know when the next fuel station might have run dry.

The road along the C27 through the NamibRand Nature Reserve is exactly as corrugated as we remember it from previous journeys. The relentless shaking is somewhat softened by the sight of a large group of zebra and the spectacular scenery all around us.

The final section via the C19 from Sesriem towards Solitaire is much the same, although this time we encounter considerably more oncoming traffic. Most vehicles leave behind an enormous 500-metre-long cloud of dust, so it becomes important to react quickly and switch the ventilation system to recirculation before the dust gets inside.

The shaking on Namibia's corrugated roads is appropriately known as the “Bush Massage”. One trick is to maintain around 70–90 km/h, allowing the vehicle to float over the corrugations rather than hitting every ridge individually. You just have to remember to slow down again for the bends, some of which have the rather unfortunate characteristic of being “cambered the wrong way”, towards the edge of the road. And, of course, there are the occasional unexpected potholes and water crossings to watch out for.

All in all, though, Namibia's roads are quite remarkable — particularly considering the distances involved. The major gravel roads are generally very well maintained, and driving them is very much part of the Namibian adventure.


Arrival at The Desert Grace


Pink refrigerator, The Desert Grace
Near Solitaire, Namibia 2026


Eventually, after the shaking and the dust, we reach the turn-off to The Desert Grace and the approximately 12-kilometre private road leading to the lodge.

Here we encounter the first gimmick.

At the top of a small hill stands a completely pink refrigerator, inviting travellers to stop for a break. Pink is, as we soon discover, something of a trademark at The Desert Grace .

We park, walk up the hill and help ourselves to some homemade, ice-cold juice from the refrigerator while enjoying the view across the surrounding desert.

A charming and original idea — and a rather promising start.


The Desert Grace private road
Namibia 2026


First Impressions of the Lodge

When we arrive at The Desert Grace itself, the lodge appears almost completely isolated in the desert. Everything is beautifully maintained, carefully designed and immaculate.

As expected, we are greeted with warm, damp towels and another refreshing drink. Our rooms are not quite ready, so the staff direct us to the bar, appropriately named “One Night in Namibia”, where we settle down on the terrace.

Looking around, it is immediately clear that this is a very impressive property. The architecture and interiors are dominated by modern design and a sense of considerable luxury. Everything is spotless and maintained to an almost obsessive degree.

It is quite a contrast to our stay at the Family Hideout — perhaps precisely why it works so well as a short stop between two longer and more adventurous stays.


Our Private Desert Villas

Eventually, we are shown to our “rooms”.

In reality, they are small, completely independent little houses, situated at the end of a 200-metre-long raised concrete walkway above the surrounding terrain.

A member of staff formally sets off with our luggage on a gleaming, chrome luggage trolley.

It looks slightly surreal here in the middle of the desert.

But then again, that is part of the concept — and clearly something they have perfected here.


Towards our rooms
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


The accommodation is spectacular and in absolutely pristine condition. There isn't a speck of dust anywhere. The bathroom is enormous, with both indoor and outdoor showers, while the toilet has a direct view of the desert through a huge glass panel.

There is also a completely private terrace with its own little plunge pool.

Unfortunately, the water is decidedly chilly at this time of year.

We spend the afternoon relaxing in the sunshine on our private terrace, enjoying the luxury — and, not least, washing the accumulated dust of the desert off ourselves.


Own private plunge pool and peace
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


Our room
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


Dinner and the Group Dynamic

In the evening, dinner is served in the stylish restaurant, with enormous glass panels overlooking the desert. We are given what is probably the best table in the restaurant, with a beautiful view towards a distant ridge of red dunes.

There is, however, one cloud on the horizon.


The buffet, The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


A large coach group with visitors from the other side of the world arrives for dinner. They are accommodated around a large communal table and, throughout the evening, there is a constant flow of people coming and going from the table, creating considerably more noise and activity than the other guests had expected in what otherwise feels like a very peaceful and exclusive lodge.

The buffet also becomes something of a spectacle. Almost immediately after arriving, several of these guests head for the meat station — while others make a beeline for the dessert section. The following morning, the same group effectively empties parts of the breakfast buffet while preparing substantial packed lunches for the day ahead, wrapping the food in napkins and packing it into their bags.

It is, in its own way, an interesting observation of how differently people can approach a communal buffet and group holiday dynamics.

But for us, the sheer size and activity of the group rather changes the atmosphere of the lodge. We later hear that large organised tour groups are a relatively regular occurrence here, and it is probably the main reason why we would choose somewhere smaller and more private next time.

Fortunately, this does not prevent us from having a very enjoyable evening.


Night Sky and Scorpion Walk


We find numerous small scorpions
Can be deadly for small children
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026


Later, we join one of the highlights of our stay: a private night-sky and scorpion walk.

Armed with UV torches, we head out into the darkness to search for scorpions among the rocks and sand while simultaneously enjoying the spectacular Namibian night sky.

And yes — the scorpions really do glow under ultraviolet light.

Our guide is exceptionally knowledgeable and pleasant, and we find numerous small scorpions during the walk. They may be tiny, but they are certainly not harmless. A sting is extremely painful and can be deadly for small children, while healthy adults will typically survive it but may endure several days of significant pain.

They are the same general type of creature that I had rather more intimate contact with during our previous journey to the Kalahari — an experience you can read about here (link).


We are enjoying the African night sky
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026


Standing beneath the enormous African night sky, surrounded by nothing but desert and darkness, is a wonderful way to end the day.


Final Thoughts


The Desert Grace near Solitaire
Nice but one cloud on the horizon
Namibia 2026


If it were not for the large organised tour group from the other side of the world, I would probably give The Desert Grace the highest possible rating as a one-night stop between Sesriem and Swakopmund.

Instead, I will settle for saying that it was a comfortable and enjoyable place to recharge our batteries — and, equally importantly, to get the desert dust out of our clothes and bodies.

For us, however, the experience also confirms that next time we would probably choose somewhere smaller and more private.

Tomorrow, we continue towards Swakopmund — with the Gaub and Kuiseb passes waiting ahead.

Monday, 27 July 2026

Our Family Adventure Begins: Namibia 2026 Central and Southern Highlights Trip

Blogger planning trip,
Olive Grove Guesthouse,
Windhoek, namibia 2026

If there is one country that keeps drawing us back, it is undoubtedly Namibia. By now, we have visited often enough to call it our favourite destination in Africa.

On our previous journey, we travelled with close friends on a quite extreeme expedition (Namibia 2024). This time, however, we have persuaded my brother and sister-in-law to join us for their very first visit to this remarkable country. Sharing highlights from a place that has given us so many unforgettable memories is perhaps even more rewarding than discovering somewhere new ourselves.

As always, I have thoroughly enjoyed planning every aspect of the trip. After many self-drive adventures across Southern Africa, researching routes, comparing lodges and piecing together the perfect itinerary has become part of the experience itself.

Highlights ininerary

For this journey, we have chosen to focus on the highlights of central and southern Namibia, revisiting several of our favourite places while allowing enough time to truly enjoy them. Instead of rushing from one attraction to the next, we have planned two or three nights at almost every destination—a style of travelling we have come to appreciate after our earlier visits.

Our route combines dramatic desert landscapes, towering red dunes, one of the world's largest canyons, spectacular mountain passes, the Skeleton Coast and the extraordinary granite formations of the Erongo Mountains, home to hundreds of ancient San rock art sites, fascinating wildlife and wonderful hiking trails.

Unlike many first-time visitors, we have decided to skip Etosha National Park and northern Namibia altogether. Those regions certainly deserve a journey of their own, but for this trip we prefer slower travel, spending quality time in each destination rather than covering as many kilometres as possible.

This is the itinerary for the first three weeks of what promises to be another unforgettable Namibian adventure.

On the way to Sandwich Harbour
Namibia 2025


The itinerary includes:

  • Windhoek
  • The Kalahari Desert
  • Fish River Canyon
  • Tsau Khaeb National Park and Lüderitz
  • NamibRand Nature Reserve
  • Sossusvlei region
  • Swakopmund and Sandwich Harbour
  • The Erongo Mountains
  • Okonjima Nature Reserve

In the following five posts, I will descripe the 2026 itinerary in more detals

  1. Windhoek and the Kalahari Desert (Part 1)
  2. Fish River Canyon and Tsau Khaeb (Sperrgebiet) National Park (Part 2)
  3. NamibRand Nature Reserve, One of the Most Beautiful Places on Earth (Part 3)
  4. Across the Desert to the Atlantic Coast (Part 4)
  5. Erongo Mountains and Okonjima Nature Reserve (Part 5)

Monday, 14 November 2022

Dead Valley Lodge

Dead Valley Lodge, enterence


The short version: The only good thing to say, it´s inside the park gate.

When you see the promotional material and pictures from Dead Valley Lodge, it looks like a desert fort with a fantastic location. In reality, the lodge is just inside the Sesriem Gate to the right on the border of the busy “Klondike" of NWR office, exposed Sesriem Campsite, medical centre, petrol station, police station, and staff facilities.

However, after paying approx. 7300 NAD for full board for one night, our expectations were high. Therefore, we were surprised to receive very little attention at arrival at the lodge. There was limited commitment from our host who handed us the mandatory paper forms. We sensed we were just one of many new guests arriving that day.

As we arrived early and our tent (room) was not yet ready (fair), we waited in the open-air lounge. Open-air was to be taken quite literally, as the area was exposed to the strong winds that prevail. We had dust sneaking in from all sides covering everything. It appeared that it was possible to close the area with glass sides, but that did not happen at any time during our visit. 

We asked politely for a cup of coffee (after no reaction from the staff). The waiter informed us we could use the self-service coffee station and pointed us in the right direction. In addition, I ask for a glass of white wine. The waiter informed us, that at the moment, we could not buy white wine by the glass (but whole bottles). They only have red wine by the glass. I replied – I admit now slightly sarcastic - that this was the first time we have been unable to buy a glass of white wine in a (luxury) lodge in Namibia after 5 trips and visiting approx. 60 different "lodges".

Dead Valley Lodge, Pool

Finally, we got our tent. It was in “the back row” of tents with a view to the many tents in the front row. All tents were quite close together. 

Tents packed together

Inside, our tent smelled of tobacco, even though smoking is prohibited in the rooms. It also turned out that the cooling system was not working. The staff promised to fix it. In the meantime, we waited to see if they would succeed before unpacking. We had already decided to find another lodge if not fixed ASAP. However, the cooling was fixed (telling them we were about to leave the lodge speeded up the service). Yet no apology or regret.

The view from our tent, Dead Valley Lodge

In the evening, we had the dinner buffet, which was included in the full board. Excellent food - but still no white wine by the glass.

The next day, we were glad we were only booked 1 night for this place. Needless to say, we will never return. On departure, our host did not ask us about our experiences with the place nor provided an evaluation form. It actually makes perfect sense.

PRO´s

  • Inside Sesriem Gate
  • Good dinner buffet with amusing chef

CON´s

  • Just about everything, read above


We suggest: Stay outside the gate. We liked Hoodia Desert Lodge (link) including their full day excursion to Sussosvlei (link), but there are many other options in the area.

Sunday, 13 November 2022

Full day excursion to Sossusvlei from Hoodia Desert Lodge

Vlei next to Dead Vlei

According to Wiki, Sossusvlei is a salt and clay pan surrounded by high red dunes, located in the southern part of the Namib Desert, in the Namib-Naukluft National Park of Namibia. The name "Sossusvlei" is often used in an extended meaning to refer to the surrounding area (including other neighbouring vleis such as Deadvlei and other high dunes), which is one of the major visitor attractions of Namibia.

Sossusvlei is surrounded
by high red dunes

Vife trekking on dunes

The full day excursion to the massive sand dunes surrounding Sossusvlei from Hoodia Desert Lodge turned out to be the ideal way to visit Sossusvlei and sourroundings, for many THE most famous Namibian tourist attraction. The huge pans (or vleis) receive water from Tauchab River at rare occasions (not every year), from where it evaporates, creating a surreal landscape in the desert only surpassed by Salvador Dali!

 Dead Vlei,
surreal landscape in the desert

We left Hoodia Desert Lodge at 05.30 am to be ready at the Sesriem Gate at 06.00. Our guide Daniel was very talkative along the whole tour but also very skilled and a remarkable source of information.

Hoodia Desert Lodge

  • 1. stop: A small bushman walk in the dunes on the way to Sussosvlei. The main attraction was to see a White Lady spider. In the distance, the balloons hovered along the red sand dunes – impressive sight
White Lady spider

  • 2. stop: Dune 40 + 45 at distance. We did not climb, but it seems you can avoid the crowds by choosing dune 40 which opened recently. Go early before it gets too hot!
Dune 40

  • 3. stop: Daniel explained the history and geology of South Western Africa drawing on a sand dune. Very interesting and informative.
Parking Dead Vlei

  • 4. stop: We climbed red sand dunes and reached Dead Vlei via a less known vlei to the right of Dead Vlei. This turned out to be the perfect way to avoid the crowds using the main track for Dead Vlei
Dead Vlei

  • 5. stop Lunch at Elin Dune. An “Out of Africa” experience. Tablecloths and cool white wine in the middle of the desert under an acacia tree!

Elin Dune, lunch

Conclusion, this full day excursion from Hoodia Desert Lodge was the perfect way to explore the area.

Read our blog about Hoodia Desert Lodge (link)

Read our blog (warning) about Dead Vlei Lodge (link)

Read further about Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei at Wiki (link)