Nossob 4×4 Eco Trail, a 214 km adventure in the desert!

The day after Tomorrow, we start on the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail that winds its way between two of the most frequented rest camps within the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – Twee Rivieren and Nossob. We will leave the traditional riverbed route connecting the two camps, and drive through the undulating dunes of the South African sector of the park. We expect a an unforgettable adventure with a blend of new 4x4 experience and excitement in combination with wildlife encounters.

The trail that winds its way
 between the undulating dunes for 214 km

The trail requires four days (three nights) of challanging 4x4 driving on a small trach through the Kalahari dunes, accompanied by a certified guide from SANParks. We will cover a total distance of 214km, with daily travel spanning approximately 50km to 60km.

Tracks4Africa App map.
You can see the three campsites

The wilderness campsites

We are going to spend the night at three distinct campsites, the three green tents on the map above, from the top:

• Swartbas
• Rosyntjiebos
• Witgat

These campsites are rugged and compleetely unfenced, blending seamlessly into the wilderness of the Kgalagadi. They only provide very basic amenities such as long-drop toilets and bucket showers, akin to other wilderness camps in the park. Throughout the trail, we will be responsible for our own meals and drinking water and must bring ample supplies of food and water to survvive the four-day journey in the dunes.

Also, we have to bring our own firewood and braai equipment (grids etc.)

Sunset yesterday, Mata Mata Restcamp,
South Africa, 2024.

Optimal timing for trail travel?

September is an ideal time to embark on the trail, as it falls within the spring/early summer period. Generally, consider going during March/April/May or September/October/November.

If you consider to go, please note, it's essential to have a 4x4 vehicle with low range capability; otherwise, you will not be permitted to undertake the trail. However, a differential lock is not required. Adjust your tire pressure to 1.5 bar or below and ensure you carry sufficient fuel for at least 300km, considering the heavier fuel consumption typical of 4x4 trails. Both Nossob and Twee Rivieren have filling stations. Additionally, it is highly recommended to protect your vehicle against grass and grass seeds. There have been instances of grass seeds infiltrating radiators, leading to vehicle fires in the Kgalagadi.

Blogauthor, adjusting the tyre pressure
Namibia, 2024.

You can find a lot of practical information about the Nossob 4x4 Eco Trail on this homepage Link And the formal Sanparks page Link

We will post a full day by day experience report, when we are done with the trail and have internet again. 

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park - a natureserve the size of Denmark!

Kgalagadi, a hidden gem in Kalahari Desert 

Son relaxing at Gharagab Wilderness Camp,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015.

Everything is just bigger in Africa. Today, we are at the Mata Mata border post about to venture into Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, a vast wildlife preserve and conservation area in southern Africa nearly the size of Denmark at 38,000 square kilometers! We are in the border area between Namibia, Botswana, and South Africa. The park is largely situated within the southern Kalahari Desert, characterized by impressive and beautiful red dunes, sparse vegetation, occasional trees, and the hallmarks — the dry riverbeds of the Nossob and Auob Rivers. These rivers are said to flow only about once per century. However, water flows underground, providing life for grass and trees growing in riverbeds. Additionally, the rivers may flow briefly after large thunderstorms.

Sparse vegetation, occasional trees,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015.

In 2015, my son and I took a father-son trip to the area (link post). I fell completely in love with the area and promised myself that I would return with my wife in the future. And now we are here, very excited to visit the park and try the Nossob Eco 4x4 trail, popular among 4x4 enthusiasts (see later posts).

Wildlife and predetors

Ostriches, Kgalagadi, 2015.

We also look forward to enjoying the nature and wildlife. According to Wiki, Kgalagadi has abundant wildlife with over 470 documented species, including large predators such as lions, cheetahs, leopards, spotted hyenas, and brown hyenas. But also smaller mammals including African wildcats, bat-eared foxes, Cape foxes, black-backed jackals, caracals, genets, honey badgers, as well as meerkats and mongooses.

Brown hyenas, Kgalagadi, 2015. 

Cape fox, Kgalagadi, 2015

My son and I saw many interesting species last time we visited and had the "pleasure" of lions outside the tent (link blog).

Lions, Kgalagadi, 2015

You can also see large ungulates [hovdyr], such as blue wildebeests, gemsboks, springboks, steenboks, southern giraffes, common elands, greater kudus, warthogs, klipspringers, and red hartebeests.

It is also a bird lover's paradise, Kgalagadi, 2015.

And over 30 reptile and amphibian species, including venomous snakes such as the Cape cobra, horned adder, puff adder, and black mamba. So watch where you walk and what you touch! You also find, for example, leopard tortoises, various agamas, geckos, sand frogs, and African bullfrogs.

Since 2005, the protected area has been considered a Lion Conservation Unit and a lion stronghold in Southern Africa. Fortunately, we are in a rooftop tent, but even that is not a 100% guarantee, as you can read in this "scary" post (link blog).

The Weather

We are visiting in September and expect a mean temperature of 18°C (64°F) with lows/highs of 8-29°C. However, extremes measured are between -5 and 38°C, respectively! See climate data for Kgalagadi at this link (link). And come prepared with plenty of water and the right equipment. Also, because help might be hours to days away given it's a wilderness the size of Denmark

Facilities

Kalahari Tented Camp, Kgalagadi, 2015.

First of all, book well in advance! There are very few places to stay in the park, and they sell out one year in advance the moment they are released. Join the Kgalagadi Facebook groups to learn the tricks of securing accommodation. You can stay in the three tourist lodges called "rest camps," which are serviced lodges with amenities such as air conditioning, shops, and swimming pools. Alternatively, and much better in my opinion, opt for the reasonably priced wilderness camps in the park. The wilderness camps provide excellent shelter; for example, see our experiences and pictures from Gharagab (link blog) and Grootkolk (link blog). You have to supply your own food, drinking water, and firewood! (Basically everything). Read more about the park and booking at Sanparks link

Source: Kgalagadi_map.pdf (sanparks.org)

Kalahari Game Lodge 4x4 Trail

Kalahari Game Lodge 4x4 Trail,
close to starting point start, red dunes ahead!
Namibia, 2024.

I deflate all four tyres, reducing the pressure from 1.8 bar, suitable for gravel roads, to 1.4 bar, which is better for sand tracks and dunes. Some even go as low as 1.2 bar. Low tire pressure is crucial when driving in sand. Lower pressure flattens the tyre, giving the vehicle better traction. However, it also makes you more vulnerable to sidewall cuts, where the bulging sides of the tire can be slashed by rocks. Fortunately, we have two spare tires, a puncture repair kit (screwdriver and rubber plugs), and a high-lift jack.

Low tyre pressure at 1.4,
Kalahari Game Lodge 4x4 Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

The main concern is getting stuck on the 23.5 km trail that winds through the Kalahari dunes. We’ve arranged with the reception at Kalahari Game Lodge that they will come looking for us if we don’t return in time for dinner. We also have a satellite phone.

Should we get stuck, we’re equipped with a winch and sandboards to place under the wheels – something we missed dearly when we were stranded 120 km from the nearest help on the Skeleton Coast (link to post).

Start of trail after climbing
 the banls of Aoub River, 
Kalahari, Namibia, 2024.

The trail turns out not to be particularly difficult. The trick is to maintain speed over the dunes. If you can’t make it all the way over, don’t spin the wheels; instead, let the vehicle roll back down the dune and make a better approach. It’s important to stop at the top, as the trail sometimes takes sharp turns right after the peak – something you don’t want to discover at high speed.

My wife and I takes a break on dune
after some nice peaks and turns!
Kalahari Game Lodge 4x4 Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

We see quite a few animals along the way, including giraffes, red hartebeest, oryx, and, of course, springbok.

Gemsbok (Oryx), an iconic antelope in Kalahari.
Adapted to the harsh, arid environment without
 need for direct water sources by obtaining
 moisture from its food. Namibia, 2024.

Finally, we reach the Aoub riverbed again, where we descend a steep slope, letting the car brake itself in first gear.

Back at our campsite, it’s time to inflate the tyres again so we’re ready for gravel roads tomorrow, as the adventure continues into the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (link to blog).

Inflating the tyres again at Campsite
after nice experience, 
Kalahari Game  Lodge 4x4 Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

We highly recommend the Kalahari Game Lodge 4x4 Trail to anyone with some off-roading experience. The most important things to remember are to reduce tyre pressure before starting and avoid getting stuck in the sand by spinning the wheels. Let the reception know when you’ll be driving and when you expect to return.

A Scorpion Heads Straight for Me!

“Suddenly, a scorpion comes running toward me with its tail arched over its back. It’s heading straight for my bare feet in sandals!”

The scorpion, Kalahari Game Lodge Campsite,
Namibia, 2024.

When the doctor doesn't take his own Medicine!

One of the things I always “preach” when we’re in Africa is:

• Watch where you put your hands
• Watch where you step
• Wear sturdy shoes/boots, preferably ones that cover the ankles

But as we know, it's one thing to say something and another to do it! Or, as we used to jokingly tell the kids, “Do what we say, not what we do.”

I got a scary reminder of this at the Kalahari Game Lodge Campsite.

Sunset first night at our idylic campsite,
Kalahari Game Lodge, Namibia 2024. 

We had just arrived at the Kalahari Game Lodge Campsite after an absolutely fantastic drive along Olifant River Road (D1033). Covered in dust after 6.5 hours on gravel roads, nothing sounded better than a warm shower. There was just one little obstacle: the hot water at this place comes from a so-called “donkey,” where you have to light the fire yourself and wait for the water to heat up. It’s a bit like an old-fashioned wash boiler, for those who remember that.

Donkey boiler, now fire where
scorpion lived moments before,
Kalahari Game Lodge Campsite,
Namibia, 2024. 

That wasn’t going to stop me from getting my warm shower. Firewood was already prepared by the donkey’s fire pit, so I bent down to adjust it and place a fire starter block. I was still wearing my sandals with bare feet after the drive!

Suddenly, a scorpion literally comes running toward me with its tail arched over its back. It’s heading straight for my bare feet in sandals! Thank goodness I didn’t grab the scorpion when I was adjusting the firewood. I had broken at least two of the three good pieces of advice above!

I managed to keep calm enough to take a little video of the critter. It had very small pincers and a thick tail – which means it's venomous. The rule of thumb is: big pincers and a small tail = not dangerous, but small pincers and a big tail = dangerous. A bit like the rule with men and big or small feet, just the other way around ;-)

Video [avaiting better wifi]: A scorpion races toward me!

A rare sight

After several trips to Africa (this being my 6th time in Namibia), we can still count on one hand how many snakes we’ve seen. Most of the time, it’s when we’re driving, and a snake crosses the road. This is probably because we tend to travel in winter (in the southern hemisphere), when snakes hide in holes and dens to avoid the cold.

We’ve seen even fewer live scorpions. They mostly come out at night, so it’s important to be aware of where you step! Another crucial thing is to always check inside boots/shoes before putting them on, and to keep bags/backpacks/tents closed when not in use.

It’s good to be reminded of these things by our new little acquaintance.

Kalahari Game Lodge Campsite,
Sunset Aoub riverbed seen from our camp,
Namibia, 2024.

A Few Facts About Scorpions

I’ll write some facts about scorpions and their danger levels once I’m back home and have decent Wi-Fi.

Olifants River Road D1033

scenic 'must-drive roads' in southeastern Namibia

Along D1033 "Olifants River Road, taking a break,
Namibia, 2024.

In southeastern Namibia, there are some incredibly scenic 'must-drive roads' (tracks), including the D1033 'Olifants River Road' from Stampriet near Mariental, South to C15 (or vice versa). '

We drive along the D1033 from north to south, heading toward the entrance to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. We start on the D1033 track where it crosses the C18, about 20 km from the small, beautifully located town of Gochas, where we filled up with diesel. Here, there are often hundreds of kilometers between gas stations, so you always refuel when you get the chance.

Near Gochas, on the way to D1033,
Namibia, 2024.

The track turns out to be in fantastic condition, without corrugation—that is, ruts [riller] that make it feel like driving over a washboard, which can be quite exhausting. But here, the track is perfectly smooth!

Start D1033 where it crosses C18
about 20 km East of Gochas,
Namibia, 2024.

As we look out from the Land Cruiser, the landscape is incredibly beautiful. Amazing pastel colors everywhere! Rust red, khaki, navy green, matte gray, blue-gray, and petrol blue, combined with pale yellow-green grasses and patches of lichen. In some places, there are even small flowers, as spring is on its way.

Amazing pastel colors everywhere,
D1033, Namibia, 2024.

The dry grass is surprisingly tall, a sign that this part of Namibia has received a bit more rain, despite suffering from two years of drought. We drive about 105 kilometers and encounter only one car (!). Of course, it appears just as we round a bend at the top of a hill, with us heading the other way. It’s important to stay on the right side of the track when crossing the highest point on the sand dunes—and remember that in Namibia, the "right side" is the "wrong side" (left) of the road!

Video [waiting for wifi to upload]: D1033, stay on the right side of the track 

crossing the highest point on the sand dunes

— and remember that in Namibia, the "right side" 

is the "wrong side" (left) of the road! ;-)

One particularly beautiful thing about this track, which I highly recommend, is that it follows the bed of a dry river for more than 100 km. If you take the full route from the north, it’s over 200 km. In several spots, there are high "riverbanks" on both sides, creating an incredibly stunning and peaceful setting.

High "riverbanks" at Olifants River Road
 D1033, Namibia, 2024.

In the middle of these high cliffs, we take a short coffee break, enjoying the scents of the Kalahari Desert. Pure bliss! And instant coffee with UHT milk!

Coffee break, D1033, Kalahari Desert.
Pure bliss & instant coffee with UHT milk!,
Namibia, 2024.

We're en route to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park heading for the Mata-Mata entrance gate, after our two-night stop at Kalahari Game Farm Campsite just before the park enterence. NB.: Don't trust Google Maps' time estimates; always add at least 50% extra time!

Among the other renowned 'must-drive roads' in southeastern Namibia are the D1022 along the western border of Kgalagadi and the D503 south of the C15 road to Mata-Mata. Both are rollercoaster tracks winding through the undulating red sands of the Kalahari. I found this interesting report about "exploring south east Namibia" Stephen Cunliffe (link), see e.g. "page 32".

How to plan a trip to Namibia

Holiday style, the Namibian self-drive paradise?

View point, Puros, Kaokoland, Namibia 2012

Blog author taking a break in the middle of
the desolate Kaokoland on the way from
Orupempe  to Opuwo, Namibia, 2012

Self-drive?

In Namibia, you have it all—from budget tours to extreme luxury. However, what truly sets Namibia apart is its exceptionally good roads (tar, gravel, tracks), diverse landscapes, and relatively high level of security. This makes Namibia ideal for a self-drive road trip. You can explore the country at your own pace, go wherever you want, and encounter only a few other cars along the way. We've also done self-driving trips in other African countries (South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia), but Namibia has always been the most easygoing!

In many of the popular tourist areas, a standard 2WD car with lower ground clearance will actually suffice, saving you a lot of money on your travel budget. However, if you plan to venture into more remote areas such as Kaokoland, Kgalagadi, or Khaudum National Park, you'll need a 4WD vehicle with higher ground clearance. Additionally, it's advisable to carry a satellite phone and ideally travel with two vehicles for safety.

Travel agent or Plan the trip Yourself?

For many years, we have used Expert Africa (expertafrica.com) as our travel agent, specifically for trips to Namibia. This has worked out really well and we are happy to recommend their services. They have a lot of excellent route suggestions that you can review and, if needed, adjust with their office in the UK. However, since the UK is no longer part of the European Union, it’s advisable to check tax regulations before booking a trip through a UK-based travel agent.

Here you can see some of the trips we planned through Expert Africa:

• 2015, A father-son trip to "Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park". My 15-year-old son and I drove along two dry riverbeds in this part of the Kalahari Desert, experiencing the beautiful natural scenery that we have come to love so much: the vast open spaces, the emptiness, the silence, the clear stars, and the prominent Milky Way. Along with this, we encountered the many sounds at night—sometimes a bit too thrilling—and the diverse scents that were distinctly perceived through the tent fabric (link to trip).

My son (and I) taking a rest,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015

• 2019, Family adventure exploring desolate coastlines, desert-adapted elephants, pristine rivers, and spectacular waterfalls. Our family—father, mother, and adult daughter and son—set off on an adventure in Namibia, with a small detour into Botswana (Okavango Delta) and a final stop in Zambia (Victoria Falls). We covered an estimated 3,500 kilometers, self-driving a 4WD vehicle from Windhoek in Namibia to Livingstone in Zambia, passing through Swakopmund, Skeleton Coast, Damaraland, Kaokoland, Kunene River, Etosha National Park, Caprivi Strip, and the Okavango Delta (link to trip)

Trekking in Etendeka Mountains,
From Mountain Camp to Main Camp,
Namibia, 2019. 

• 2022, luxury trip. My wife and I traveled from one beautiful place to another, indulging in luxury as we were pampered by the staff. The most extreme location was Wolwedans Dune Camp (blog link), where some of the guests even arrived by plane—and butler service was an option! One of the days, I decided to trek to the second-highest mountain in the Namib Desert (blog link). There were many highlight, like spending some exciting days in the Mundulea Private Reserve (blog link) and walking on the Tok Tokkie Trail in the Namib desert sleeping under open sky in the dunes (blog link).

Wolwedans Dunes Lodge, dinner is ready
Namibrand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2022.

Hiring a Car?

Bushlore Camper

If you book through a travel agent, it's best to use the car hire company they partner with. Otherwise, it's a good idea to check Namibian travel groups on Facebook, such as "Travelling Namibia & Botswana," DriveNam, Camping in Namibia, and NAMIBIA - Camp and Holiday. The question "Which car hire company do you recommend?" is often asked, and from the responses, you can see that some companies are recommended more frequently than others.

This time, we chose Bushlore based on many good recommendations. After our next trip, we will provide feedback on this company.

We always choose the best insurance option. However, please be aware that in this part of Africa, even the best insurance doesn't provide the same coverage as in Europe. There are many exceptions to the rules, and the phrase 'no cover if it’s your own fault' can be interpreted very loosely. Carefully inspect the car upon delivery. Take pictures of everything and fill out the report, noting any pre-existing damage, scratches, etc.

Camping or lodges?

Our camp "Little Hunters Rest",
Tiras Mountains, Namibia, 2009.

 

In Namibia, You Can Have It All—From Budget to Luxury!

How about your own "chiller pool" in the desert?
Wolwedans Dune Lodge, Namibrand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2022.

In Namibia, you can experience everything from budget travel to luxury. The most affordable way to travel is to rent a small 2WD car and bring your own tent and camping gear from home. We did this in 2009 and had a fantastic—and relatively inexpensive—trip. This approach requires some familiarity with camping and a love for sleeping in a tent. A step up from this is staying at the many excellent budget accommodations, such as guest farms and small hotels. Some of the places we remember as truly great "value for money" include BullsPort Lodge (link blog) and Klein Aus Vista (link blog), though there are many others. In this regard, Namibia has a significant advantage over Botswana, which is considerably more expensive.

You can also travel very comfortably from one luxurious place to the next, where the staff is ready to cater to your every need. For example, take a look at our 2022 trip, which was quite upmarket (link 2022 trip).

 

SIM Card / Satellite Phone?

Breakdown Land Rover (fan belt)
 40 km from Madisa Campsite, link blog,
Namibia, 2012.

We are in serious problems at Skeleton Coast with
120 km to nearest town and no satellite phone,
link blog, Namibia, 2019.

If you travel in the regular tourist areas of Namibia, you don’t need a satellite phone but can instead purchase a local (MTC) SIM card at the airport upon arrival. You’ll need to show your passport and typically buy data packages that each lasts for a week. The staff at the MTC store will handle everything and can show you how to top up with new data packages.

If you plan to travel outside the regular tourist areas to more remote regions, it is highly recommended to rent a satellite phone. It has saved us from some very stressful situations. For example, when our car almost caught fire in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (link blog), and when all the electronics in our vehicle failed and we were stranded on the roadside south of Palmwag Lodge (link blog). We also wished we had brought a satellite phone when we were stranded on the Skeleton Coast, 120 km from the nearest town in a very remote area—probably the most extreme experience we've had to date (link blog).

You can typically rent a satellite phone from the same place where you rent your car. This year 2024, we bring a sattelite phone given the remote areas we visit.

8 km southwest of Leopard Pan,
Central Kalahari Game Reserve,
Satellite phone came in handy!
link blog, Botswana, 2012.

Remember to Bring?

Download the Tracks4Africa app and buy the Namibia
map, and you'll always know where you are
 (does not require internet).

Besides the usual items, consider bringing the following:

• You need good travel insurance: Medical treatment and hospitalization can be very expensive, and it could ruin your finances if you have to pay for an air ambulance back to, for example, Europe, on your own!
• Maps/Apps: A good physical map, such as Tracks4Africa (link), and a reliable app with offline maps, like the Tracks4Africa app. We've used it many times; it works excellently, and you always know exactly where you are. Even small trails, like those in Kaokoland, are included on the map.
• We also recommend the "iOverlander" app, where you can find campsites and much more. It works offline.
• Hiking boots: It's a good idea to bring a pair of lightweight hiking boots that cover your ankles. They help protect against sprains but also to some extent against snake and scorpion bites. 
• International driving permit: If your driver's license is not in English, it is important to bring an international driving permit (along with your regular driver's license). This way, the local police will have no excuse to issue you a fine.
• Lighting is essential: A headlamp is perfect as it keeps your hands free, and it's good to have a lamp for campsite ambiance if you're camping.
• Don't forget chargers for your devices and an adapter for the local power outlets.
• Regular batteries are easy to buy locally.
• Lighter/Matches can also be purchased easily locally.
• Prescription medicine (with your name on it).
• Medicine kit: I might be a bit biased as a doctor, but we bring antibiotics, antihistamines, anti-itch cream, anti-diarrheal pills, nasal spray, antifungal cream, blister bandages, pain relievers, and more.
• There’s usually a first aid kit in the car, but consider supplementing it with extra bandages and an elastic bandage.
• Clothesline.
• Hammock: It's really cozy to have, and there are lightweight versions that take up little space.
• Solar shower (container): Sometimes available in rental camping vehicles.
• Eco-friendly washing products (shampoo, soap) that are gentle on the environment.
• It might be nice to bring your own sleeping bag liner/extra sheets and possibly your own sleeping bags. We've used them as a supplement to what’s provided in the camper van. Alternatively, you can just buy a warm blanket upon arrival as a supplement.
• Thermal underwear (base layers) for cold evenings and nights, and possibly a pair of thermal socks (especially important in the winter, as it can get very cold at night in the Namibian desert).
• Extension cord.
• Organizer bags can be very practical.
• Pack in soft bags that can be easily stowed in the vehicle.

Reorganising our stuff at
Madisa Campsite,
Namibia, 2012.

Our Medicine kit, Madisa Campsite,
Namibia 2012.

Currency and cash?

Bring South African Rand (ZAR). They can be freely used in Namibia and are much more widely accepted in the rest of the world, for example, if you need to exchange them back. We bring about 5,000 ZAR per week that we're in Namibia (less for longer trips). Almost all places accept Visa and MasterCard without any problems, but there's always a risk of no internet connection, so having cash is essential.

What we do in practice is start paying in cash towards the end of the trip to use up the foreign currency. We withdraw the cash from FOREX in Denmark, as they will exchange it back if we keep the receipt.

Some emergency Contacts

Always update your emergency contacts before departure, below some you can consider e.g. (May 2024):

Emergency Services:

• Ambulance: 10 177 (public) or 112 (private)
• Police: 10 111

Tourist Assistance:

• Namibia Tourism Board: +264 61 290 6000

Roadside Assistance:

• Automobile Association of Namibia (AAN): +264 61 224 201

Medical Assistance:

• Windhoek Central Hospital: +264 61 203 9111
• Mediclinic Windhoek: +264 61 433 1000

Denmark Consulate in Windhoek

• Address: Eland Street 11, Finkenstein Estate, P.O.Box 24236, Windhoek, Namibia. 
• Phone: +264-85-1244219
• Fax: +264-88-619548
• Email: carsten@iway.na

Embassies and Consulates:

• United States Embassy: +264 61 295 8500
• British High Commission: +264 61 274 800
• German Embassy: +264 61 273 100
• Denmark Embassy list in Namibia link +27-12-4309340, pryamb@um.dk

Namibian Police Force (NAMPOL):

• General Enquiries: +264 61 209 4111

TAC (tourism against crime)

•  +264 81 399 7615

NB:

• Your travel insurance information and emergency number
• You bank/credit card information and emergency number

Health Precautions?

Read my blog about malaria risk in Namibia (link malaria blog)

Anopheles stephensi, female, 
Photo by Jim Gathany

The safe rooftop tent?! Lions and leopards

 Woken up by lion roars outside the tent at night!

Lion, Blog author & son, Kgalagadi 2015

 

Lion, Blog author & son, Kgalagadi 2015

In 2012, my wife and I were sleeping in a ground tent at desolate "Sunday Pan" in Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Our two children Thea and Laust were sleaping in the rooftop tent on the top of the Land Rover. Suddently, we were woken up by lion roars in the middle of the night!!

It's 4 in the morning. We've finally fallen into deep sleep after today's exertions and after lying awake listening to all the sounds around the tent. The children are sleeping soundly on the roof of the car. They talked for a long time before they fell asleep. We are completely alone in the world in the middle of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. As far out on the edge as one can get in this world. Suddenly we are wide awake!! Lion roars sound far too clear only about 200 meters west of the tent – there are many of them. We think of the huge Kalahari lions that we've just seen at the Graasslands Safari Lodge. "Did you hear that?" I ask softly. "Yes!," my wife Pia replies. There's no need to say more. We just lay completely still and try to breathe without making a sound. It's a good thing the children didn't wake up – it's a bad time to call for parents with lions outside. Minutes pass, seemingly without them getting any closer. After about an hour, I hear the lions again, now south of the tent. They're a bit further away. Glad it's the last night in the Central Kalahari. It's too extreme... 

Again in 2015, on a father-son trip to the Kalahari Desert, my son and I were woken up by lions outside the tent. This time we were in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in a wilderness camp called 'Gharagab.' We were a bit calmer this time, but it still sounds quite terrifying! You can read this story here (Lions outside the tent link) 

This time, we went for the safe rooftop tent option!?

 

Bushlore vehicle with roof top tent

This is exactely one of the reasons we decided to go for a rooftop tent for our 2024 expedition. We thought it would be more safe than the ground tent - or that was untill we read Gavin Allderman´s recent horifying experience in Kgalaghadi - the first place we head after arriving in Namibia! 

Suddently, the rooftop tent did not seem that safe anymore. 

Read his nerve-racking story!: 

"The leopard attack [in the rooftop tent]" by Gavin Allderman (source)

From FaceBook

 

We were camping at Bosobogolo camp number 2 at the beginning of March 2024. The summer had started wet and promising for this arid landscape, but the rains had abated, the stark veld suffering the consequences of the harsh onslaught of 40° plus temperatures and searing winds. Thankfully the temperature on our second day had abated so it was comparatively mild, topping in the mid 30s, with protective cloud, - a day for relaxing and reading.A glorious spectacular sunset heralded another beautiful evening, the barking geckos, jackals and other night sounds wafted on the air. 

After a little braai we packed up camp, securing all our equipment (we had heard lions in the distance the previous night). Jill showered and got into the  rooftop tent. I was just finishing showering when I noticed an animal in the murky edges of the circle of light. I yelled “Jill, a leopard”, but in the low light had doubts and thought it could perhaps be a cheetah….. big mistake! 

 

We meet a leopard in Chobe National Park, 
But on safe distance!
Botswana, 2019.

 

I hurriedly secured our motion sensor lights around the Hilux and clambered up into the tent.  We zipped up the gauze insect protective coverings and, feeling secure, lay in bed reading. We were aware of the animal circling the vehicle by virtue of the motion sensor lights being triggered and at one point we were aware that the ‘cheetah’ had crawled under the bakkie, only its tail visible. In the glimpses we caught, we could see the animal was completely emaciated and gaunt. 

I started feeling uneasy - this was unusual activity, and thought “thank goodness we are in a rooftop tent”.

Eventually we dozed off into slumberland. It must’ve been around 10 pm. 

At about 01:30 I jerked awake having heard movement on the ladder. Sitting bolt upright, instantly wide awake, I peered down the ladder and saw the animal climbing up. I shouted ”he’s coming up the ladder”! Screaming  and swearing was no deterrent as he scrambled up and launched himself onto the gauze of the tent, his claws gripping the thin fabric with his head inches from my face. I started punching at it furiously in the face with all my might. I realized we were now bare fisted fighting for our lives. Both of us were shouting and screaming, Jill from behind me, hitting with a pillow at its paws, and then with her book. Every now and again the animal pulled its head back in a terrifying gesture as if to attack and bite through the gauze. At these moments I concentrated on punching his claws. I became aware that there was blood spattering in copious amounts, but just carried on punching and shouting, adrenaline coursing through my body in this fight for life.  Terrifyingly during the whole attack there wasn’t a sound from the animal, just its jagged breathing as it concentrated on the assault. There was no flight option at this point. The terror is palatable as I write this. I must have punched at least 30 times, using all my energy.

Eventually the animal fell back and we realised we had a temporary “stay of execution “!

My hand was bleeding profusely.  Jill took off a pillow slip which we hurriedly wrapped around it to try and stem the flow of blood. 

Panting and shaking from this terrifying experience which lasted at least a minute, we considered our options. We had to get into the vehicle, but how? While we pondered we heard what sounded like the animal jumping on the bonnet! It seemed like a horror movie! We would be fighting for our lives the night through! When the animal reappeared at the foot of the ladder we sprayed it with water from a spray bottle we had with us…. this was not much of a deterrent but a mild distraction. Jill came up with the suggestion of pulling the ladder in. As I opened the gauze to do this, the animal reappeared attacking the bottom of the ladder as I swung it at him. Eventually we got the ladder in with the tent zipped up - but What now? We definitely had to get into the vehicle, only how? I could either dash down the ladder and confront the beast using the ladder as a weapon, or stealthily creep down the ladder on the opposite side of the bakkie as the animal was now in the A frame hungrily plotting his next move. The latter was a less grizzly option as long as the front left door was not locked (a lousy Toyota anomaly). 

Before I over considered this scary option,  I opened the tent on the opposite side, slipped down the ladder, my heart pounding in my chest, and into the vehicle which thank God was open. Jill hauled the ladder in, shouting to ask if I was ok, but I couldn’t hear her,  She was relieved when she saw the headlights illuminating as I slid into the drivers seat. Shaking with shock, adrenaline and  with the exertions of pounding at the beast’s face with all my might for a lengthy period, I thought at least now we have a chance as I started the Toyota.

Yelling to Jill to find out if she was ok, I reversed, blood dripping everywhere. I  drove the vehicle towards it in an attempt to chase it,  then drove slowly to camp number 2 about 3 kms away, all the while yelling to Jill if she was ok and telling her to shine backward down the road to make sure the animal wasn’t following us. 

At the other campsite I nervously alighted and got Jill down from the RTT [roof top tent].

The pillow slip was by now soaked in blood. We gingerly pulled it open expecting to see a shredded hand, but to our surprise all that blood came from a single, pretty deep scratch at the base of my ring finger. Phew….relief! Nurse Jill applied her skills, we washed my hand in a dettol solution, dried it and put on bandages and antiseptics … things were at last looking up. All this time we were nervously keeping our eyes open as we suspected it may be coming after its injured prey. 

We slowly drove back towards our camp.  In the headlights, there it was….unmistakably a gaunt, highly compromised leopard. My skin crawled as realization set in that we had just, with our fists,  driven off this killer animal! 

We took some iPhone pictures before she ducked away and disappeared into the dark bush.

At the camp, sitting in the Hilux talking about the incident, we realized just  how lucky we had been. We were suffering now from post traumatic stress so I quickly jumped out and retrieved a bottle of whisky which we sipped neat to calm our jangld nerves.

What a night! We realized once again we were lucky to be alive. 

The following morning we packed up camp and drove to Mabua gate to report the incident. At the gate we met a French couple, both vets, who very kindly redressed my wound and gave advice regarding rabies and tetanus shots. After consulting doctors we realized I needed an anti tetanus shot. We washed our bloodied sheets at the game scout camp and then set off to Lesholoago camp hoping it would be unoccupied - fortunately it was.

That evening DWNP game scouts arrived to check on us. 

The next day we drove around the Pans hoping to find a doctor amongst the campers. Amazingly there was a group at Mphaya who had an anti tetnus shot - what a relief!

We reported the incident to the SANPARKS when we arrived at Nossob few days later.. 

This was such an unexpected, terrifying and horrific experience which is taking time to assimilate. However one must accept that visiting the wild is a highly risky activity. I have been going to Mabua for 43 years, almost every year and sometimes 2 or 3 times a year, so regard myself as reasonably experienced. I have always carried an axe and a divers knife into the tent with me, but the recent acquisition of a rooftop tent has made me feel safer so I have let this practise slip. Big mistake! If we had straight away recognized the animal as a leopard, I would have been more alert and cautious. A compromised animal is a far more dangerous risk as we all know. 

I am glad we stayed on for five extra nights; it helped come to terms with the incident."

Our own leopard experience on walking safari 2022

"Did you see the leopard passing the road?" asks our guide Bruno. We are on our first walking safari shortly after arriving at Mundulea Camp. Earlier, on the way to the camp, I reassured my wife, "No visitors have ever seen cats [leopard, lion, and cheetah] in this area, it should be quite safe." Fortunately, the second argument I gave for undertaking this adventure still holds: "They cannot run a business if tourists are eaten all the time." After our new information about the leopard, we keep a tighter formation, walking one by one in the dense bush, and no one really wants to be the last person in the row. Read on and see all the pictures from Mundulea Camp (link) 

Later the same night, we were sitting around the fire when our guide told us an interesting story about "the tiger [leopard] in the tree". Read on (link) 

 

We also meet a leopard in Chobe National Park,
but on safe distance!
Botswana, 2019.