Showing posts with label self-drive. Show all posts
Showing posts with label self-drive. Show all posts

Monday, 24 August 2026

Outpost Safari Lodge – Four Days of Peace, Luxury and Adventure in the Kalahari

 

Breakfast outside on the large terrace
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We are thoroughly enjoying our days at Outpost Safari Lodge. What a fabulous place!

On our second morning, Elize and her team have set up breakfast outside on the large terrace, with an uninterrupted view across the Kalahari. To make sure we do not freeze in the cool morning air, they have also lit a fire in the small fireplace.

We enjoy yet another wonderful breakfast, taking in the peace and quiet, the extraordinary view and the beautiful terrace perched on top of the dune. It is difficult to imagine a better place to start the day.


Breakfast outside on the terrace
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


A little self-drive adventure

Later in the morning, we decide to take the car for a short drive, partly to recharge the vehicle's battery and, not least, the battery of our fridge. I mention to our host that I am thinking of driving to the main gate and back again. By now, we know the area a little better.

This would also give us the opportunity to have a closer look at Dune House, which seems like a perfect option if you are travelling to Outpost Safari Lodge as a larger group. We have already seen the two bungalows attached to the main house, and it would be an obvious place to bring friends or family for three to five days.

Elize suggests that, instead of simply driving to the gate and back, we could make a little circular tour. What a great idea!

We can drive out through the main gate and then enter through another gate into the southern part of the reserve, about three kilometres farther south. From there, we can drive north through the area and stop at the hunting tower for a cold drink. Elize naturally offers to send us off with a cooler bag containing the drinks.

It sounds like a wonderful little adventure: driving around on our own in a large private game reserve.

Not that we had exactly covered ourselves in glory when it came to finding our way around the reserve the previous day, but we had eventually made it back!

This time, fortunately, we find the main gate without any problems. We even locate the second gate, despite several rather emphatic signs warning “NO ENTRY”.

Fortunately, we are among the invited guests!

We follow our position on the satellite imagery in Google Maps and try to locate the pan where we remember the hunting tower from the previous morning's game drive. A pan is a relatively large, flat, low-lying open area in the landscape.

We end up slightly too far south, but decide not to leave the little track through the desert. After all, we know roughly where the main house is on the map, so we should eventually be able to find our way back.


Another hunting tower
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Suddenly, we spot another hunting tower. We get out and take a short break, enjoying the view from the top. Before climbing the tower, however, we carefully scan the surrounding ground for snakes. We are, after all, walking around in the Kalahari!

From the tower, we can see another track farther north, heading in roughly the right compass direction towards the pan and the main house. We decide to follow it.


View from hunting tower and our car
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


And, sure enough, it takes us to the familiar hunting tower we visited the previous morning.

It is quite enchanting to explore this huge private reserve on our own.

We probably should have fitted the supplied mesh screen in front of the vehicle's air intake, though. The grass is quite high, and seeds and other vegetation can potentially block the radiator airflow. I keep a very close eye on the temperature gauge.

It does not move.

So all is well!


An afternoon of complete relaxation


Afternoon at the plunge pool
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We make it safely back to the main house and spend the afternoon at the plunge pool, basking in the sunshine, applying generous amounts of sunscreen and reading our books.

Every now and then, we are interrupted by a friendly enquiry from Elize:

“Is there anything you need?”

Perhaps a glass of white wine on ice in the champagne cooler?

What a life!


Fireplace Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Later in the afternoon, Tomaz and his assistant pick us up for a game drive. He takes us towards the southern part of the reserve, where we see Outpost Safari's airstrip – very convenient if you arrive by private aircraft.

It reminds us of our stay at Wolwedans Dune Lodge, where around half of the guests arrived by air. [link]


Near Outpost Safari's airstrip
Namibia 2026

We continue towards the southern end of the reserve and also visit the site of the original Union's End – the place where Namibia, Botswana and South Africa meet. Tomaz explains that the actual meeting point has subsequently been moved slightly farther southeast.


Wife & assistant, original Unions End
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We do not see quite as many animals this afternoon, but that really does not matter.

There is something wonderfully relaxing about sitting together for two or three hours, slowly driving through the landscape and simply scanning the bush, while a warm afternoon desert breeze blows through the open vehicle.

Sometimes the landscape itself is the attraction.


Sunset, springbok carpaccio and a very attentive chef


Sunset on the terrace around the fire
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Springbok carpaccio
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We enjoy sunset on the terrace around the fire.

Elize has prepared an absolutely fabulous starter: springbok carpaccio.

We enjoy it with a glass of red wine while taking photographs of the spectacular sunset. At some distance, we are joined by a western barn owl, sitting quietly and watching us from afar.


western barn owl watching us
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


As darkness gradually takes over, we move inside for another wonderful dinner.

Tonight's main course is homemade stuffed chicken roulade.


Stuffed chicken roulade
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Elize has also asked about our favourite desserts. My wife therefore gets crème brûlée one evening, while tonight Elize has experimented with coconut panna cotta after I mentioned that I am rather fond of coconut.


Coconut panna cotta
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


What thoughtfulness – and what an extraordinary level of culinary enthusiasm!

The coconut dessert may not become a future signature dish, but that is hardly the point. The sheer willingness to experiment and create something especially for us is wonderful.

As we head to bed, Elize tells us that breakfast the following morning will be a surprise.

We simply have to be ready at 8:45.

And we should wear shoes suitable for sand.

“I won't tell you anything else. It has to be a surprise.”

Intriguing!

We have absolutely no idea what is waiting for us.


Breakfast in the bush


Breakfast in Nama Camp
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


The following morning, Tomaz picks us up and drives us out into the bush to a place called Nama Camp.

It is a kind of small traditional kraal, surrounded by sheets of corrugated metal decorated with old rusty cars. Apparently, fires can be lit inside some of the vehicles in the evening, creating quite a spectacular effect.

This morning, however, the camp has been transformed into a very special outdoor breakfast venue.

Elize and her two assistants – together with her daughter, who is helping out – have lit a fire and prepared our breakfast over the flames.


Eggs on fire pan
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


In the centre of the enclosure, a table for two has been beautifully set with a white tablecloth.

We are given the place of honour.

Freshly baked rolls are served straight from the fire. They remind us of freshly baked Danish snobrød – bread cooked on a stick over an open fire.

Eggs and bacon are also cooked over the flames on a large fire pan and brought to our table.

And, of course, there is delicious biltong on the table – air-dried meat that we have gradually become very fond of during our travels in southern Africa.

We feel rather like "Jeppe på Bjerget in the Baron's bed" (Danish story) – suddenly finding ourselves treated like royalty!

It is another wonderfully memorable experience.


Freshly baked rolls straight from the fire
Remind us of Danish snobrød
Outpost Safari Lodge, Namibia 2026


A surprise encounter with sable antelope

The afternoon is once again devoted to relaxation by the plunge pool, accompanied by our books and the now familiar question of whether we need anything.

Honestly, I simply cannot think of anything we could possibly need.

This is such a wonderful way to completely disconnect from everyday life.

Suddenly, Elize comes running towards us.

“Tomaz has just seen a herd of sable antelope near the shed. Hurry and drive down there if you want to see them!”

Elize knows that we would very much like to see sable antelope again. They are such impressive animals.

By now, we know the reserve well enough to drive straight along the familiar track to the shed.

And there they are.


Herd of sable antelope
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


An impressive herd of sable antelope stands in the afternoon sunlight, their magnificent curved horns clearly visible. There are even several young calves among them.

Sable antelope are among Africa's most striking antelopes. They are large, powerful animals, easily recognised by their dark coats, white facial markings and impressive, backward-curving horns. The calves are born reddish-brown and gradually develop the characteristic dark adult colouring as they mature.

Watching the herd moving calmly through the golden Kalahari grass is a wonderful experience.


Sable antelope Outpost Safari Lodge
among Africa's most striking antelopes
Namibia 2026


Sundowner on the dunes


Sundowner, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


That evening, the staff have arranged another sundowner – this time on top of a nearby sand dune.

Tomaz picks us up and drives us through the bush in the soft light of the setting sun.

When we reach the top of the dune, we find – well, by now you have probably already guessed it – a beautifully prepared table for two.

White tablecloth.

Two wine glasses.

Chilled white wine.

And an ice bucket, just in case.

There is also a large platter filled with cheese, sausage, olives, crackers and vegetable sticks.


Sundowner, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


We enjoy the appetisers while watching one more of the most beautiful sunsets of the entire trip unfold across the bush and the red dunes.

And once again, the lovely staff seem to be enjoying themselves almost as much as we are.


Lovely staff, Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


It is difficult not to feel incredibly privileged.

When we return to the lodge, another dinner is waiting for us.

Tonight's main course is delicious, slow-cooked pork, somewhat reminiscent of osso buco in its rich, tender texture, followed by cheesecake for dessert.

After four days of this, a fairly serious diet may be required when we get home!


Slow-cooked pork
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


Saying goodbye to Outpost Safari Lodge


It is time to say goodbye after four extraordinary days!
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


And then, all too soon, it is time to say goodbye.

What an extraordinary four days we have had at Outpost Safari Lodge.

The combination of peace and solitude, superb food, extraordinary attention to detail, beautiful surroundings, wildlife and the simply breathtaking views makes this a very special place.

But perhaps what makes the stay particularly memorable is the people.

Elize and her team seem to have mastered the art of being attentive without ever being intrusive. They somehow manage to anticipate what you might want before you even realise that you want it. Whether it is breakfast around a fire in the bush, a cold drink at a hunting tower, wine at sunset or simply a quiet afternoon by the plunge pool, everything feels personal and carefully thought through.


View from terrasse
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


And then there is the landscape.

The enormous open spaces of the Kalahari, the dunes, the changing light, the silence and the wildlife create a sense of isolation that is becoming increasingly rare.

We can warmly recommend Outpost Safari Lodge to anyone looking to spoil themselves with several days of peace and complete privacy in the Kalahari.

It is also particularly well suited to a group of friends or family. We would absolutely love to return in this way.

The main house can accommodate around eight guests in four bedrooms, including two separate bungalows on stilts in the desert, just a short walk from the main house – provided, of course, that there isn't a lion paying a visit!


One of two separate bungalows on stilts
Outpost Safari Lodge
Namibia 2026


If you also rent the nearby Dune House, at least another eight guests can be accommodated.

This would make an ideal setting for a group of friends, a family gathering, a special celebration or even a company retreat.

If you are interested in hunting, this is also possible, or you can choose to rent the property outside the hunting season – or even take over the entire place exclusively.

It is certainly not inexpensive.

But in our opinion, Outpost Safari Lodge offers exceptionally good value for money for this level of privacy, service, food, surroundings and personal attention.

Four days of peace, adventure, excellent food, spectacular sunsets and wonderful people.

We leave with very fond memories – and with a strong feeling that we may well return one day.


Sunpavillion, Outpost Safari Lodge, sunset
Namibia 2026

Sunday, 25 August 2024

How to plan a trip to Namibia

Holiday style, the Namibian self-drive paradise?


View point, Puros, Kaokoland, Namibia 2012

Blog author taking a break in the middle of
the desolate Kaokoland on the way from
Orupempe  to Opuwo, Namibia, 2012

Self-drive?

In Namibia, you have it all—from budget tours to extreme luxury. However, what truly sets Namibia apart is its exceptionally good roads (tar, gravel, tracks), diverse landscapes, and relatively high level of security. This makes Namibia ideal for a self-drive road trip. You can explore the country at your own pace, go wherever you want, and encounter only a few other cars along the way. We've also done self-driving trips in other African countries (South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia), but Namibia has always been the most easygoing!

In many of the popular tourist areas, a standard 2WD car with lower ground clearance will actually suffice, saving you a lot of money on your travel budget. However, if you plan to venture into more remote areas such as Kaokoland, Kgalagadi, or Khaudum National Park, you'll need a 4WD vehicle with higher ground clearance. Additionally, it's advisable to carry a satellite phone and ideally travel with two vehicles for safety.

Travel agent or Plan the trip Yourself?

For many years, we have used Expert Africa (expertafrica.com) as our travel agent, specifically for trips to Namibia. This has worked out really well and we are happy to recommend their services. They have a lot of excellent route suggestions that you can review and, if needed, adjust with their office in the UK. However, since the UK is no longer part of the European Union, it’s advisable to check tax regulations before booking a trip through a UK-based travel agent.

Here you can see some of the trips we planned through Expert Africa:

  • 2015, A father-son trip to "Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park". My 15-year-old son and I drove along two dry riverbeds in this part of the Kalahari Desert, experiencing the beautiful natural scenery that we have come to love so much: the vast open spaces, the emptiness, the silence, the clear stars, and the prominent Milky Way. Along with this, we encountered the many sounds at night—sometimes a bit too thrilling—and the diverse scents that were distinctly perceived through the tent fabric (link to trip).

My son (and I) taking a rest,
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, 2015

  • 2019, Family adventure exploring desolate coastlines, desert-adapted elephants, pristine rivers, and spectacular waterfalls. Our family—father, mother, and adult daughter and son—set off on an adventure in Namibia, with a small detour into Botswana (Okavango Delta) and a final stop in Zambia (Victoria Falls). We covered an estimated 3,500 kilometers, self-driving a 4WD vehicle from Windhoek in Namibia to Livingstone in Zambia, passing through Swakopmund, Skeleton Coast, Damaraland, Kaokoland, Kunene River, Etosha National Park, Caprivi Strip, and the Okavango Delta (link to trip)

Trekking in Etendeka Mountains,
From Mountain Camp to Main Camp,
Namibia, 2019. 

  • 2022, luxury trip. My wife and I traveled from one beautiful place to another, indulging in luxury as we were pampered by the staff. The most extreme location was Wolwedans Dune Camp (blog link), where some of the guests even arrived by plane—and butler service was an option! One of the days, I decided to trek to the second-highest mountain in the Namib Desert (blog link). There were many highlight, like spending some exciting days in the Mundulea Private Reserve (blog link) and walking on the Tok Tokkie Trail in the Namib desert sleeping under open sky in the dunes (blog link).

Wolwedans Dunes Lodge, dinner is ready
Namibrand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2022.

Hiring a Car?


Bushlore Camper

If you book through a travel agent, it's best to use the car hire company they partner with. Otherwise, it's a good idea to check Namibian travel groups on Facebook, such as "Travelling Namibia & Botswana," DriveNam, Camping in Namibia, and NAMIBIA - Camp and Holiday. The question "Which car hire company do you recommend?" is often asked, and from the responses, you can see that some companies are recommended more frequently than others.

This time, we chose Bushlore based on many good recommendations. After our next trip, we will provide feedback on this company.

We always choose the best insurance option. However, please be aware that in this part of Africa, even the best insurance doesn't provide the same coverage as in Europe. There are many exceptions to the rules, and the phrase 'no cover if it’s your own fault' can be interpreted very loosely. Carefully inspect the car upon delivery. Take pictures of everything and fill out the report, noting any pre-existing damage, scratches, etc.


Camping or lodges?


Our camp "Little Hunters Rest",
Tiras Mountains, Namibia, 2009.

 

In Namibia, You Can Have It All—From Budget to Luxury!

How about your own "chiller pool" in the desert?
Wolwedans Dune Lodge, Namibrand Nature Reserve,
Namibia, 2022.

In Namibia, you can experience everything from budget travel to luxury. The most affordable way to travel is to rent a small 2WD car and bring your own tent and camping gear from home. We did this in 2009 and had a fantastic—and relatively inexpensive—trip. This approach requires some familiarity with camping and a love for sleeping in a tent. A step up from this is staying at the many excellent budget accommodations, such as guest farms and small hotels. Some of the places we remember as truly great "value for money" include BullsPort Lodge (link blog) and Klein Aus Vista (link blog), though there are many others. In this regard, Namibia has a significant advantage over Botswana, which is considerably more expensive.

You can also travel very comfortably from one luxurious place to the next, where the staff is ready to cater to your every need. For example, take a look at our 2022 trip, which was quite upmarket (link 2022 trip).
 

SIM Card / Satellite Phone?


Breakdown Land Rover (fan belt)
 40 km from Madisa Campsite, link blog,
Namibia, 2012.


We are in serious problems at Skeleton Coast with
120 km to nearest town and no satellite phone,
link blog, Namibia, 2019.

If you travel in the regular tourist areas of Namibia, you don’t need a satellite phone but can instead purchase a local (MTC) SIM card at the airport upon arrival. You’ll need to show your passport and typically buy data packages that each lasts for a week. The staff at the MTC store will handle everything and can show you how to top up with new data packages.

If you plan to travel outside the regular tourist areas to more remote regions, it is highly recommended to rent a satellite phone. It has saved us from some very stressful situations. For example, when our car almost caught fire in the Central Kalahari Game Reserve (link blog), and when all the electronics in our vehicle failed and we were stranded on the roadside south of Palmwag Lodge (link blog). We also wished we had brought a satellite phone when we were stranded on the Skeleton Coast, 120 km from the nearest town in a very remote area—probably the most extreme experience we've had to date (link blog).

You can typically rent a satellite phone from the same place where you rent your car. This year 2024, we bring a sattelite phone given the remote areas we visit.


8 km southwest of Leopard Pan,
Central Kalahari Game Reserve,
Satellite phone came in handy!
link blog, Botswana, 2012.


Remember to Bring?


Download the Tracks4Africa app and buy the Namibia
map, and you'll always know where you are
 (does not require internet).


Besides the usual items, consider bringing the following:

  • You need good travel insurance: Medical treatment and hospitalization can be very expensive, and it could ruin your finances if you have to pay for an air ambulance back to, for example, Europe, on your own!
  • Maps/Apps: A good physical map, such as Tracks4Africa (link), and a reliable app with offline maps, like the Tracks4Africa app. We've used it many times; it works excellently, and you always know exactly where you are. Even small trails, like those in Kaokoland, are included on the map.
  • We also recommend the "iOverlander" app, where you can find campsites and much more. It works offline.
  • Hiking boots: It's a good idea to bring a pair of lightweight hiking boots that cover your ankles. They help protect against sprains but also to some extent against snake and scorpion bites. 
  • International driving permit: If your driver's license is not in English, it is important to bring an international driving permit (along with your regular driver's license). This way, the local police will have no excuse to issue you a fine.
  • Lighting is essential: A headlamp is perfect as it keeps your hands free, and it's good to have a lamp for campsite ambiance if you're camping.
  • Don't forget chargers for your devices and an adapter for the local power outlets.
  • Regular batteries are easy to buy locally.
  • Lighter/Matches can also be purchased easily locally.
  • Prescription medicine (with your name on it).
  • Medicine kit: I might be a bit biased as a doctor, but we bring antibiotics, antihistamines, anti-itch cream, anti-diarrheal pills, nasal spray, antifungal cream, blister bandages, pain relievers, and more.
  • There’s usually a first aid kit in the car, but consider supplementing it with extra bandages and an elastic bandage.
  • Clothesline.
  • Hammock: It's really cozy to have, and there are lightweight versions that take up little space.
  • Solar shower (container): Sometimes available in rental camping vehicles.
  • Eco-friendly washing products (shampoo, soap) that are gentle on the environment.
  • It might be nice to bring your own sleeping bag liner/extra sheets and possibly your own sleeping bags. We've used them as a supplement to what’s provided in the camper van. Alternatively, you can just buy a warm blanket upon arrival as a supplement.
  • Thermal underwear (base layers) for cold evenings and nights, and possibly a pair of thermal socks (especially important in the winter, as it can get very cold at night in the Namibian desert).
  • Extension cord.
  • Organizer bags can be very practical.
  • Pack in soft bags that can be easily stowed in the vehicle.

Reorganising our stuff at
Madisa Campsite,
Namibia, 2012.

Our Medicine kit, Madisa Campsite,
Namibia 2012.

Currency and cash?

Bring South African Rand (ZAR). They can be freely used in Namibia and are much more widely accepted in the rest of the world, for example, if you need to exchange them back. We bring about 5,000 ZAR per week that we're in Namibia (less for longer trips). Almost all places accept Visa and MasterCard without any problems, but there's always a risk of no internet connection, so having cash is essential.

What we do in practice is start paying in cash towards the end of the trip to use up the foreign currency. We withdraw the cash from FOREX in Denmark, as they will exchange it back if we keep the receipt.


Some emergency Contacts



Always update your emergency contacts before departure, below some you can consider e.g. (May 2024):

Emergency Services:

  • Ambulance: 10 177 (public) or 112 (private)
  • Police: 10 111

Tourist Assistance:

  • Namibia Tourism Board: +264 61 290 6000

Roadside Assistance:

  • Automobile Association of Namibia (AAN): +264 61 224 201

Medical Assistance:

  • Windhoek Central Hospital: +264 61 203 9111
  • Mediclinic Windhoek: +264 61 433 1000

Denmark Consulate in Windhoek

  • Address: Eland Street 11, Finkenstein Estate, P.O.Box 24236, Windhoek, Namibia. 
  • Phone: +264-85-1244219
  • Fax: +264-88-619548
  • Email: carsten@iway.na

Embassies and Consulates:

  • United States Embassy: +264 61 295 8500
  • British High Commission: +264 61 274 800
  • German Embassy: +264 61 273 100
  • Denmark Embassy list in Namibia link +27-12-4309340, pryamb@um.dk

Namibian Police Force (NAMPOL):

  • General Enquiries: +264 61 209 4111
TAC (tourism against crime)
  •  +264 81 399 7615
NB:
  • Your travel insurance information and emergency number
  • You bank/credit card information and emergency number

Health Precautions?

Read my blog about malaria risk in Namibia (link malaria blog)


Anopheles stephensi, female, 
Photo by Jim Gathany