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| Library, Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
We are approaching the gates of Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat (link), which describes itself as a “five-star award-winning luxury wellness and wilderness retreat in the Western Cape.”
Well, that certainly sounds promising.
Admittedly, it also sounds rather different from many of our usual favourite places – remote campsites, isolated lodges and simple houses somewhere in the Namib Desert, preferably reached after several hours on gravel roads.
But perhaps one can learn to live with luxury wellness too.
From the N7 into the Cederberg
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| Landscape changes dramatically Cederberg Mountains South Africa |
We have driven roughly 350 kilometres straight south along the N7 before turning east at Clanwilliam towards the Cederberg Wilderness Area.
From here, the landscape changes dramatically as we head through the beautiful Pakhuis Pass and eventually reach the entrance to Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve.
We stop in front of a large closed gate and press the intercom.
Almost immediately, a cheerful voice comes through:
“Welcome! We have been expecting you and have been looking forward to your arrival. Just continue approximately seven kilometres along the track to the lodge.”
That is quite a welcome.
The automatic gates swing open, we drive through, and they close again behind us.
There is perhaps no turning back now.
A Slightly Different Kind of Arrival
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| Trees in front of "event building" Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
Eventually, we reach the lodge itself, which consists of several low buildings scattered through beautifully landscaped grounds, mostly in what I suppose could best be described as a refined cottage style.
The final driveway takes us between immaculate green lawns, exotic plants, large old trees and palms.
This is certainly not the desert anymore.
As we pull up outside reception, three members of staff are standing in a perfectly straight line waiting for us.
Think Downton Abbey.
The moment we step out of the car, the lodge manager welcomes us warmly. He introduces the other two members of our reception committee: the receptionist on duty and Niel, who will be our personal guide for the next three days.
The manager then casually explains that we can simply hand the car key to Niel. He will take care of the luggage and the car.
And that is the last we see of our Toyota Hilux for three days.
When it eventually reappears, it has – almost miraculously – been washed as well.
I could get used to this.
The receptionist now presents us with warm, damp white cloths on a tray so we can refresh our hands before being escorted inside.
We are offered homemade rooibos iced tea while the formalities are dealt with. “Formalities” turns out to mean handing over one passport for a quick copy.
There is apparently no reason why guests should be troubled with unnecessary paperwork.
Instead, we can concentrate on admiring the reception area with its enormous wooden table, heavy leather furniture and African art covering the walls.
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| Beautifully furnished sitting rooms Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
Would Sir Prefer the Tour First?
We are asked whether we would like to see our cottage immediately or perhaps have a tour of the property first.
Naturally, we choose the tour.
We are curious.
Back outside, the first building pointed out to us is Bushmans Kloof's event venue, a huge structure beside a small stream. In front of it is a beautiful terrace beneath enormous old trees, their long hanging branches creating something resembling natural curtains between the tables.
A little farther away is the first of the property's infinity pools.
Pool number one.
The next building is perhaps 30 by 20 metres with a ceiling that must be 10 or 12 metres high.
Its purpose?
High tea.
Of course.
High tea is served every afternoon at 3 pm, and it is apparently an event sufficiently important to justify having its own substantial building.
Perfectly reasonable.
Immediately outside is infinity pool number two.
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| Guests arriving by helicopter near tea house Bushmans Kloof, South Africa 2026 |
We later discover that the lawn in front of the tea house also serves as the landing area for helicopters bringing in guests who apparently find the approximately two-hour drive from Cape Town somewhat inconvenient.
We have arrived in a slightly different world.
Kitchen Gardens and Wellness
Next, we pass the lodge's beautiful kitchen garden, surrounded by a low white wall intended to keep wildlife on the correct side.
Inside are immaculate vegetable beds and shaded growing areas protecting the plants from the strong South African sun.
Much of what eventually appears on our plates apparently originates here.
Beside the garden is, naturally, the spa and wellness centre.
Our receptionist reassures us that someone from the spa will contact us later in the day once we have settled in, should we wish to arrange any treatments.
One would hate to miss the opportunity to become well.
Leather Chairs, Log Fires and a Proper Bar
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| Ornamental pond at night Bushmans Kloof, South Africa 2026 |
We continue towards the main bar and restaurant area.
First, we cross a small ornamental pond using large stepping stones. In the evening, it is beautifully illuminated.
Then we enter through an enormous wooden door.
Inside, the style is unmistakably old-world African lodge: dark timber, huge pieces of furniture, heavy leather armchairs, African art and open fireplaces.
There are fires burning in the hearths.
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| Bar, Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
To the left is an enormous bar, where the extremely friendly bartender immediately welcomes us and tells us that we must not hesitate to ask if there is anything at all we need.
It is a sentence we are going to hear rather frequently during the next three days.
Walk straight through past the bar and you reach a secluded courtyard containing pool number three – this one heated – surrounded by a pergola with small tables beneath it.
To the right of the bar are three interconnected dining rooms.
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| Blogger in library Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
To the left is the library.
And this is not merely a decorative hotel library consisting of six coffee-table books strategically positioned beside a leather chair.
It contains an impressive collection of classic African literature.
One could quite comfortably disappear into one of the enormous leather armchairs here for several hours with a book.
Or, indeed, write a travel blog.
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| Decorations in sitting rooms Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
Beyond the library is a succession of beautifully furnished sitting rooms, eventually leading into a heritage room with historical San and Khoi artefacts and displays describing their traditional way of life and the cultural history of the Cederberg.
The entire place feels somewhere between an elegant country estate, an African wilderness lodge and a rather eccentric private museum.
In a good way.
Our Home by the Water
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| Our humble cottage "Water´s Edge 2" Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
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| Bathtub Water´s Edge 2 Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
Eventually, we reach our own cottage: Water's Edge 2.
And the name is quite literal.
Our bungalow sits immediately beside a small lake, with wildlife moving through the surrounding grounds and across the water.
There is a private terrace from which to watch it all, as well as sun loungers on the lawn immediately in front of the cottage.
Not bad at all.
But there is no time to linger.
We have arrived just in time for high tea.
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| High tea, Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
High Tea – Naturally
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| The view from our cottage Moon and lake, Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
We return to the dedicated tea house, where three members of staff are ready to look after the approximately six guests present, including us.
This appears to be a perfectly normal staff-to-guest ratio at Bushmans Kloof.
High tea comes with the expected collection of beautifully presented savoury and sweet delicacies, tea and coffee, while we sit overlooking the lawns and mountains beyond.
Occasionally somebody appears and asks:
“Is there anything else you need?”
No.
But thank you for asking.
Again.
Wilderness – Bushmans Kloof Style
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| High tea, Bushmans Kloof South Africa 2026 |
So, yes.
We have unquestionably checked into Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve and Wellness Retreat, with full board and all activities included – what at slightly more primitive establishments might simply be called all inclusive.
The principal disturbances to the peace and quiet here appear to be members of staff occasionally interrupting the silence to ask whether we need anything.
Or perhaps a helicopter landing on the lawn in front of the tea house with another group of arriving guests.
These are hardships we shall endeavour to endure.
And despite all the luxury, we have certainly not forgotten the wilderness part of Bushmans Kloof.
Our first activity is already arranged: later this afternoon, Niel will take us into the reserve on a nature drive, ending with a sundowner somewhere in the Cederberg landscape.
It will be interesting to see what the next few days bring.
But after only a few hours here, I am beginning to suspect something.
Yes.
I think I could probably get used to luxury wellness after all.
