A secret gem: Arimas River Road (D463 from vest / C13)

D463 "Arimas River Road" start

D463 from C13 (vest) is a secret gem!

Namibia is the perfect country for awesome road trips! Often visitors report the most beautiful roads of Namibia that you really shouldn’t miss. We have already had the privilege to try many of these visiting Namibia five times. 

Now we will tell you a secret! On this trip, we found the most fantastic road that we have never heard of before! Let's call it "Arimas River Road". It connects the “Diamond Sperrgebiet” east border and the Fish River Canyon´s western parts. A secret gem!

D463´s start from C43 - expect 3 fantastic hours
(Without punctures)

When we stayed at Eagle's Nest in Klein Aus Vista (link), our next destination was Fish River Lodge (link) on the western rim of Fish River Valley. From the travel agency, we were advised to drive along the large paved B4 road towards Keetmanshoop, and then drive south on the D463 to reach the track towards Fish River Lodge. However, at the Tracks4Africa app (highly recommended), we could spot another tempting route! 

• Instead, take D463 from C13 (the road to Rosh Pinah) 👍
• Also possible other way around; D463 from the entrance to Fish River Lodge track to C13 
• However, the part of D463 from the entrance to Fish River Lodge track to B4 is not very interesting

Tracks¤Africa App
Take D463 from C13

We ask about the road conditions at the reception in the Desert Horse Inn Lodge. We are advised it should be possible as long as there is no rain, as we have to cross several riverbeds. We inform the reception that we will take this route instead thus they can send a rescue party if we do not show up at Fish River Lodge. It turnes out to be one of the most stunningly beautiful routes we've driven on five trips to Namibia!

The start from Klein Aus Vista towards Rosh Pinah by C13 is magnificent with a fantastic view of the “Diamond Sperrgebiet” on the right hand.

C13 with “Diamond Sperrgebiet” on the right hand.

After we turn off the D463 towards east, we only meet one car for the next 3 hours!! In the beginning, we have beautiful mountains on our left hand. (Mt Witputkuppe 1351m & Mt. Nasepberg). Also, we see the most wonderful mountain formations with many different layers in the rocks. 

D463

D463, a break, what a view!

We pass some farm gates, and now, the road follows the Arimas Riverbed, which we cross several times. It is so beautiful and endlessly desolate! 

Dry riverbed, Arimas River

After two hours' drive along D463, we cross two larger - but fine - passages of the river, where it widens and there is more vegetation. 

D463, larger riverbed

This could be challenging places if there was water! Finally, we reach the D459, which we pass on our left hand on the way to the beginning of the track to Fish River Lodge. After D459 (still on D463), we pass the very beautiful "Konkiep River Crossing", where there is actually reed forest (!)

D463 in the distance

We are relieved when we finally reach the entrance gate at the track to Fish River Lodge (and 45 mins. more interesting drive). 

Track to Fish River Lodge from D463

It has been a very desolate absolutely stunningly beautiful tour!

Enjoying the surroundings D463 

Word of warning:

• Very desolate, far from help
• No cell phone reception
• 4WD is recommended (but unproblematic for us in dry weather)
• Bring plenty of water (at least 5L per person)

Other roads in Namibia we loved, read our posts:

• C34 driving along Skeleton Coast (link)  
• D3700 along Kunene River (link)
• Into Damaraland along C39 (link)
• C43 towards Sesfontain (link)
• From Orupempe into Marienfluss (link in Danish)

Epupa Falls, a green oasis in Kaokoland

Kaokoland and Epupa Falls, the extreme northwest Namibia

The Epupa waterfalls are series of falls extend over a wide area.
There are giant baobab trees and palm trees everywhere,
surrounded by the dry Kaokoland and Zebra mountains, Namibia 2019

From Opuwo to Epupa Falls 180 kms along C43 

We leave Opuwo, the "Wild West" town in the northwest

We leave Opuwo, not a place we will miss. We are on our way to Epupa Falls. Opuwo seems to be very affected by the drought in Namibia. It is a small and uninspiring town in the middle of the bush, but you can find fuel, supplies and banks. It feels like "Wild West". At the gas station in the middle of the city, street children and poor people come begging. The kids "wash your car" whether you want it or not and ask for payment. You have to look very carefully for your belongings, but they do not seem threatening. The gas station staff seems to have giving up. We hope the coming rainy season will be a good one. There is a desperate need of water in the area, especially for goats and cattle that are important in this area.

We stayed at Opuwo Country Lodge, which also seemed affected by the harsh conditions. Dust everywhere. The road up to the lodge hilltop looked like something that was a lie. It was in a very bad condition surrounded by dead trees and shrubs. Strange afterwards to relax on the edge of the infinity pool afterwards in this troubled city.

Gas station in the middle of Opuwo
Street kids and poor people come begging
Namibia 2019

Opuwo, Namibia 2019

North towards Epupa Falls

We drive from Opuwo via C43. We head for Okongwati. As there are no likely supplies of diesel before Ruacana several days ahead, we have refueled the car completely with 80 liters of diesel. Also, we bring plenty of liquid.

We drive cautiously, it´s very far between inhabited areas and you pay on the spot for any errors. We are reminded by the rusty car wrecks on both sides off the road. A moment of inattention, and you might be heading over the side of the dirt road or slip out in a sandy curve. Then, you might easily hit the banks of a (dry) stream under the road or drive down a slope overturning the car. If so, you have to wait for hours for the next car to pass (given you are alive).

One of the few "towns" we pass 

The landscape changes 

As you head north, the landscape changes. You see scattered Himba towns in the characteristic red colors and round enclosures for the animals. From Okongwati to Epupa Falls, there are 73 kilometers. You drive through the Zebra Mountains, which rises on the right. Now, there are more trees, even some giant baobabs.

We are approaching Kunene River. We had heard that we should not expect to much of the Epupa Falls, which are located in the northernmost part of Namibia on the border to Angola.

This is completely wrong. Suddenly, as we drive around the last hilltop, we see a very green wide line of palm trees in the landscape.

Suddenly, we see a very green line of palm trees in the landscape
Kunene River, Namibia 2019 

It seems very dramatic after the long trip through the dry countryside and mountains. This must be as reaching an oasis in the desert after days of hiking? The life-giving water. The Kunene River flows to the South Atlantic Sea from Ruacana Falls Hydroelectric Power Station and for 300 kms. and forms the (now) peaceful border with Angola.

Father, son and daughter at Epupa Falls viewpoint
Namibia 2019

The waterfalls

The waterfalls themselves are a series of falls, the highest 32 meters, which extend over a very large approx. 500 meters wide area. There are giant baobab trees and palm trees everywhere, surrounded by the dry Kaokoland and Zebra mountains.

Epupa Falls, Namibia 2019

It is a good experience to walk around the area by the falls. We ended the trip by driving up to the Epupa Falls viewpoint and enjoying the sunset view. A this spot, you get a fantastic overview of the whole area. People are very welcoming and it seems safe.

Me taking photos at Epupa Falls Viewpoint
Namibia 2019

We live at the nice Epupa Camp approx. 700 meters above the waterfalls. This place is clearly recommended.

The cottage, Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

The cottage, Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

The swimmingpool next to Kunene River,
Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

View from Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

Enterence, Epupa Camp, Namibia 2019

Into the Kaokoveld, Africa´s last wilderness?

From Palmwag to Opuwo, we are approaching the wilderness in the north

Hard to leave  the nice Palmwag area
Palmwag Lodge, Namibia 2019

Harsh desert, drifting sanddunes and rocky mountains

The 233 kms route from Palmwag Lodge to Opuwo

The Kaokoveld is one of Africa´s last wilderness and one of the least inhibited areas in Namibia. It´s  a harsh desert of drifting sanddunes and rocky mountains. It receives most of its rainfall during the summer, which distinguishes it from the adjacent Namib Desert to the south, which receives most of its rain during the winter. The Kunene River, which we are heading for after resting in Opuwo, is the only permanent watercourse, but Kaokoveld has many riverbeds (including the Hoanib, Hoarusib and Khumib Rivers) that are dry most of the year. However under the sand, sometimes surfacing, they carry moisture through the desert and are home to animals including e.g. desert adapted elephants, black rhinos and giraffe. Other than the riverbeds, the area is ancient desert sand only moistened by occasional coastal fog (source). Kaokoveld is divided into the two areas, Damaraland in the south, and Kaokoland in the north, all now officially known as Kunene Region.

Never leave the track

Video of the C43 road efter living Palmwag towards Sesfontain in 2012 (we forgot to take pictures and videos this time)

When we pass north of the town Sesfontain, we enter the land of the Himba tribe. On these remote "roads" we really need our high-clearance 4WD car and enough fuel and supplies for the expedition. Normally, we say 10 liters of water per person per day in case of emergencies if we get stranded. Also, we newer leave the track. If we stay to the track, someone are likely to pass within a few days. To keep to the track and always know where we are, we use "Tracks4Africa" which we have on our cell phones - at least on more than one cell phone. Also, we carry a god old map and a compass. Ideally, you always want to be two cars in the party, but that is not always possible.

On the C43 road from Palmwag to Sesfontain
Namibia 2012 

On the C43 road from Palmwag to Sesfontain
Namibia 2012

On the C43 road from Palmwag to Sesfontain
Namibia 2012

Fort Sesfontain

You migt want to visit the town Sesfontain and the fort on the way to Opuwo, we did so previously. The town is set between mountains in the Hoanib Valley. It used to be an important "German" military outpost. Today, it still feels like an outpost, but in a relaxed and nice way. The most well known landmark of Sesfontein is Fort Sesfontein, which was erected in 1896, according to Wiki as a police outpost by Schutztruppe soldiers of Imperial Germany. It was abandoned in 1914 and fell into disrepair soon thereafter. The fort was reconstructed in the 1990s and is now equipped to accommodate tourists.

Opuwo Country Lodge, infinity pool.
Nice to reach after a long drive, Namibia 2019