Extreme 4WD Adventure: Rooidrom, Joubert's Pass, and Beyond!

On the way to the top of Rooidrum Pass, Namibia, 2024.

"Below, I recount the thrilling story of what turned out to be our wildest 4WD experience in Namibia to date. We were pushed to the limit, and it became a very long day, requiring a major detour through desolate desert landscapes, navigating some of Namibia’s toughest passes, including Rooidrum and Joubert's Pass, and passing the famous landmarks Rooidrum and Bloudrum on the round trip through Orupembe and back to Etambura Camp!"

A full day circular 4WD tour through some of Namibia’s toughest passes!

On the top of Riooidrum Passs in Kaokoland,  
one of the wildest and least populated areas in Namibia, 2024.

We’re in northwest Kaokoland (now known as the Kunene Region since 1990), one of the wildest and least populated areas in the country, with a population density of just one person every 2 km². Kaokoland stretches from the Hoanib River in the south to the Kunene River, which also marks the border between Namibia and Angola. The landscape is largely mountainous, dry, and rocky.

One of Kaokoland’s famous and - and infamous - features is its incredibly challenging and legendary 4WD tracks that wind through mountains, rocks, and desert sand. The most famous and notorious of these is Van Zyl’s Pass, beginning at Otjihende, where you descend through a difficult passage to the Marienfluss Valley. 

Nearly as famous are Rooidrom and Joubert's Passes, located right next to Etaambura Camp, where we’re staying in a spectacular setting that feels like a cross between Tranquility Base and the Garden of Eden (link to travel report). 

The emptation is just too strong! We’re “right next door” and can explore two of Namibia’s three most famous (and notorious) passes. On top of that, we’re armed with two solid Toyota Land Cruisers equipped with 4 spare tires, repair kits, winches, a satellite phone, and various tools.

Before setting out, we make sure to bring plenty of water. We then head down the steep path from Etaambura Camp, turning north, and pass the turnoff to Marble Mine and House on the Hill. Spirits are high as we follow two tracks on the hard, rocky ground, keeping in constant contact between vehicles via walkie-talkies.

The challenges start suddenly!

The challenges start suddenly as we reach Rooidrum Pass! This proves to be the wildest 4WD experience in Africa so far! 

I stop the Land Cruiser in front of the steep ascent, which looks more like a cliff face with small ledges at different levels and high rock walls on both sides. The cliff is covered in stones of various sizes, with deep cracks and holes throughout. Is this really the way up?

I get out and hike up to the top of the pass.
This is indeed the trail  - wild!!!

I get out and hike up to the top of the pass. This is indeed the trail  - wild! My heart rate and blood pressure rise as I decide to take on the climb! I set the Land Cruiser in low gear, with four-wheel drive and traction control engaged. Impressively, it powers through the steep rock obstacles as I do my best to steer around the largest holes and cracks.

I notice that my tire pressure is too low for this rocky stretch, but it’s too late to change once you’re on the incline. It doesn’t help that the handbrake on our Bushlore Land Cruiser is too weak! If we stall, the plan is for my fearless wife to jump out and place four large rocks behind the wheels. We actually drove this stretch alone with our children in 2012 in a Land Rover Defender, but the pass feels far more challenging now as much of the gravel has washed away, exposing deep cracks.

We make it to the top, with my pulse and blood pressure even higher, but fortunately, the tires stay intact without coming off the rims or getting side cuts on the bulging sidewalls.

Walk down to guide friends!
Rooidrum Pass, Namibia, 2024

I then talk to our friends in Land Cruiser 2 (call sign “Rhino 2” on the walkie-talkies ;-) and they’re up for the challenge, despite this being their first trip to Africa! We might just have the most fearless friends in the world on this expedition! I walk in frot of their Land Cruiser, pointing out the best spots for wheel placement to avoid getting stuck in deep cracks and holes. They also reach the top without any issues, and we adjust tire pressure.

My wife and I adjust tyre pressure to 2.0
at top of Rooidrum Pass, Namibia, 2024.

We figure it can’t get any worse (famous last words, anyone?)

Surprised by the terrain’s difficulty, we consider whether to tackle the next nearby pass or turn back while we still can. We figure it can’t get any worse (famous last words, anyone?).

Sharp rocks on the trail,
high risk of side cuts!
Namibia, 2024

The drive up the next pass, Joubert's Pass, goes smoothly and seems easier than Rooidrum Pass. But the descent is a whole other story. Steep rock walls close in on both sides of the vehicle as we go down, with limited visibility of the obstacles ahead - large holes, loose rocks, boulders, and steep drop-offs. Going down proves much harder than going up! The risk is that the undercarriage might get stuck despite the high ground clearance, tires could puncture (especially side cuts), or the vehicle could tip if the balance shifts too much to one side. In some spots, there’s no choice - only a high path on one side and a lower one on the other. A toppled vehicle wedged between two high rock walls would be no joke to free, especially on a narrow, steep stretch (and at 2.5 tons with a weak handbrake!).

Down safely, wife takes break with one of
Kaokoland´s famous stonemen!
Namibia, 2024.

Fortunately, both vehicles make it down safely, though we’re exhausted and a bit shaken by the route’s difficulty. Now we face a dilemma: the only way back is the same route we just took! This wasx supposed to be a round trip! Our plan was to drive to the famous landmark - a red oil drum called “Rooidrum” - from there a bit into the renowned Marienfluss Valley, and then back the same way. But the thought of crossing the two mountain passes again seems a bit like tempting fate now that we’ve made it once, especially with our heart rates still up after that intense descent!

Our escape route!

Our approx. 150 / 8 hours
circular tour, Namibia, 2024.

There’s another possible route I’ve been considering on the map. According to Tracks4Africa, you can drive about 25 km west toward Skeleton Coast and the landmark Bloudrum - a blue oil drum - then follow a desert trail south for over 100 km to Orupembe, which we passed on our way to Etaambura Camp two days ago. There are no settlements along this way, just isolated stone and sand desert! This is a long, unknown detour for us, but with adrenaline still pumping from Joubert's Pass, the idea of avoiding the two passes is tempting. We decide to try this much longer route.

Rooidrom, Kaokoland,
Namibia, 2024.

We reach Rooidrum Pass without major issues (compared to what we’ve encountered so far). Here, we meet a safari group with two vehicles, one towing a trailer, carrying about ten tourists and all their gear, and heading toward the same route we just came from! Incredible. The experienced guide confirms that the route I found on the map is real, driveable, and less challenging than the two passes.

Blog author & wife at Bloudrum,
a landmark very few persons have ever seen!
Namibia, 2024.

Only "local life" we meet (with Himba shepherds)
during 8 hrs drive, between Rooidrum and Bloudrum
near only water pump, Namibia, 2024.

So, we continue westward to Bloudrum, a landmark that very few persons have ever seen, marking the entrance to one of Namibia’s most remote and inaccessible areas, Hartmann Valley. The only people we see over the next five hours are a group of Himba women with a herd of goats near the only well in the vast landscape. It’s surreal, as though we’ve traveled hundreds of years back in time, if not for our two massive Land Cruisers interrupting the scene.

As we headed west from Rooidrum, we crossed numerous dry stream beds and riverbeds. But after passing Bloudrum and turning south toward Orupembe, the landscape became less rocky and more like a sandy desert. 

Tje landscape just after Bloudrum,
Namibia, 2024.

Mountains East, separating us from
Etaambura Camp, Namibia, 2024.

A break after 6 hrs drive under one of the
only trees in the desert  (shade tree picnic spot)
on Tracks4Africa, Namibia, 2024.

To the east, we can see the mountains separating us from our camp at Etaambura. All around us, the colorful sands and mountains show every shade of brown, red, and khaki. We have to drive all the way around the mountain range and past Orupembe before heading back toward our valley. Thankfully, we filled up (at great expense) with diesel in Puros! We haven’t yet needed the 40 liters in our two jerry cans on the roof.

Home safe!

The last 15 km before Orupembe bring intense corrugation. If you have kidney stones, they’d shake right down to the urinary tract! It’s exhausting, and we’re definitely getting tired by now!

After Orupembe, we drive the final 30 km north to Etaambura Camp. The last 1,000 meters up the mountain trail suddenly feel very easy after Rooidrum and Joubert's Pass! 

The last 1,000 m up the mountain trail
to Etaambura Camp, now easy!
Namibia, 2024.

Geateful to be home safe with friends,
Enjoying sunset over Onjuva plains,
Etaambura, Namibia, 2024.

That evening, we unwind on the viewing platform atop the mountain at Etaambura Camp, grateful to be back safe and sound, with no punctures or mishaps. G&Ts are in order as we watch the sun set over the sacred Onjuva plains and mountains!

Tomorrow, we head on the long journey back to Opuwo (which, as it turns out, also held some driving challenges with powder sand and clay after passing Kaoko Otavi, but thats another story!).

 

A word of warning:

One of our four spare tyres!
Namibia, 2024.

Don’t enter this area unprepared. Help is a long way away if anything goes wrong. At minimum, bring a satellite phone and Tracks4Africa. Needless to say, the trip requires two solid 4WD vehicles, with full equipment.

Etaambura Camp in Kaokoland

 

Etaambura Camp, main building with viewing platforms,
Namibia, 2024.

Our private platform and view,
Etaambura Camp, 2024.

A blend between Tranquility Base and the Garden of Eden!

We’re staying atop a mountain in one of the most remote places in the world: Etaambura Camp. Namibia’s first Himba co-owned camp situated in Orupembe Conservancy  It feels like a blend between Tranquility Base and the Garden of Eden (not that I’ve tried either one)!

 

View from access road,
Etaambura Camp, Namibia 2024.

After six visits, this might be the place in Namibia that has left the greatest impression on us. We first visited Etambura Camp in 2012, and now, in 2024, this spot still exceeds our well-honed and adventurous imaginations. 

Etaambura camp, start access road,
Namibia, 2024.

Final 1,000 m to Etaambura Camp,
4WD vehicle and steady nerves!
Namibia, 2024

Etaambura Camp sits almost entirely inaccessible in the far reaches of Kaokoland in northwest Namibia, perched on one of the highest mountains in the area. The final 1,000 meters up the mountain on a small gravel path require a good 4WD vehicle and steady nerves, with steep slopes to your right most of the way. 

View North, Etaambura Camp, Namibia 2024.

Once you reach the top, the reward is a breathtaking 360-degree view of the sacred Onjuva plains, where the Himba people live peacefully among the wild animals. The Himba tradition forbids hunting in this area, as the plains are believed to be protected by ancestral spirits. Instead, they live off their livestock, cattle, and goats.

Etaambura’s main building sits at the very peak, crafted from local stones placed in gabions (raw metal netting) that support a thatched roof. Wood and smooth concrete floors complete the design, seamlessly blending Etambura into the mountain, enhancing its beauty. 

The furniture is solid wood and leather, and electricity is generated by solar panels, stored in batteries for evening and nighttime use. Water is sourced from a nearby borehole and driven up the steep path to the top of the mountain.

Our canvas tent with private viewing platform,
Etaambura Camp, Namibia, 2024

Our bed, last cabin,
Etaambura Camp, Namibia 2024.

Main building bathroom (one of two),
Etaambura Camp, Namibia, 2024.

Around the main building you find five spectacularly positioned canvas tents, each with its own gabion support, private viewing platform, toilet, and shower. Simple yet beautiful, these tents offer guests total privacy with unbelievable views of sunrises and sunsets over mountains and plains.'

The cooking is done over an open fire,
Etaambura Camp, Namibia, 2024.

Beef on fire!
Etaambura Camp, Namibia, 2024.

Accommodating up to 10 guests, the camp provides about 250 square meters of space along with two friendly local helpers who handle practical tasks like lighting the fire, heating water, setting tables, and washing up. Guests must bring their own food, though some beverages are available on-site. The nearest supermarket is eight hours away in Opuwo! Guests can get cooking assistance from the local helpers or choose to cook for themselves.

Platforms offer the most jaw-dropping views!
Etaambura, Namibia, 2024.

Platforms offer the most jaw-dropping views!
Sunset, Etaambura Camp, Namibia, 2024. 

Around the main building, terraces and platforms offer the most jaw-dropping views! There’s no doubt this place ranks in our top three of the most beautiful locations we’ve stayed in (in 22 African countries). 

Etaambura Camp view,
Tranquility Base + Garden of Eden
Namibia, 2024.

Indeed, this is blend between Tranquility Base and the Garden of Eden. But it’s not necessarily for everyone. This isn’t a luxury lodge with 24/7 service and every amenity – it’s luxury and peace on a far more sublime level.

Link to Etaambura Camp Homepage (link)

Via Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail to Puros

Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail, first part,
Namibia 2024.

While staying at Etendeka Main Camp, the manager at this lovely place recommended we take the “Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail” near Sesfontein on our way to Puros. We later confirmed this with a guide at Khowarib Lodge, who also endorsed the route. This guide mentioned that we could follow him to Hoanib the next day, as he was taking some tourists along the entire trail to “Amspoort Gorge.”

I felt a great deal of responsibility for our route and safety, so I was somewhat anxious before our departure the next day. Mainly because I know - from experience - that help can be very far away if you get stuck or if the Land Cruiser has technical problems in such a remote area. However, it was somewhat reassuring to know that we had two highly capable vehicles equipped with all the necessary expedition gear, Tracks4Africa for navigation, and a satellite phone for emergencies. 

Despite this, it can still be very stressful to break down along the way, something we have "enjoyed" several times before! Most recently on the Skeleton Coast, where we were stuck 120 km away from the nearest help with no satellite phone, after getting caught in quicksand in a salt pan (link scary report). Or when our car nearly caught fire in Central Kalahari Game Reserve with endless miles to the nearest help. Fortunately, we had a satellite phone that time (link report).

We ultimately decided that the route via the Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail to Puros looked very exciting, and we were all eager for the challenge! Early in the morning, we left Khowarib Lodge, following the guide and his guests. And ss soon as we left the D3707 after Sesfontein, we could see there were many different tracks in the sand. You constantly have to choose a track while trying to avoid the deeper ones with the loosest sand! 

We quickly spotted the first giraffes,
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

In the beginning, the drive was relatively smooth, and we quickly spotted the first giraffes. 

Ostriches, Okambonde Plains,
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

We passed the vast “Okambonde Plains,” surrounded by majestic mountains, where we saw some beautiful ostriches. 

Near the “Elephant Song Community Campsite,” we reached the “Hoanib Trail Entrance Gate,” where – if I remember correctly – we paid 700 NAD per car for a day pass to the gorge. Here, we lost contact with the guide from Khowarib Lodge, who was long gone by the time we paid and passed through the gate. That meant he also missed out on his rather princely tip!!

We were alone, except for the animals,
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

Now, we were all alone, except for the animals, entering the gorge on a challenging track without a guide but with help from Tracks4Africa! 

We drove along the dry riverbed, and in many places, the sand was very loose with deep tire tracks. It’s crucial to maintain momentum when crossing loose sand, and if you need to downshift, you have to do it quickly to avoid getting stuck. Also, remember to engage traction control before tackling a tough passage!

There were moments when it felt like the vehicles were on the verge of getting stuck, but our Land Cruisers proved impressively capable of handling everything we threw at them! Luckily, we had two cars traveling together, which significantly increased our safety since we could pull each other out if necessary.

We reached “Die Poort,” a narrow gorge between two cliffs. It was perhaps the most challenging part of the entire route, with powder-like sand. Things almost went wrong here. Another Land Cruiser was coming from the opposite direction through the narrow gorge and barely avoided colliding with us by veering off the track. You can’t just change direction with a nearly 3-ton vehicle! The powdery sand made things even more difficult. I’m sure many people have gotten stuck here! Fortunately, we made it through with both cars, maintaining momentum through the tough passages, and the track gradually became easier and breathtakingly beautiful.

We continued driving alongside the dry riverbed, crossing it several times – some crossings were a bit tricky, but not quite beyond the capabilities of the vehicles (or the drivers). We could see the Hoanib Valley Tented Camp, impressively isolated on the right mountainside, as we took a break by a waterhole. Shortly after, we saw a mother elephant with her calf in the riverbed, just as we rounded a corner. We quickly had to keep our distance.

Mother elephant with calf in riverbed,
just as we rounded a corner, 
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail, Namibia, 2024.

We proceeded to the “Mudorib Waterhole,” where we took the track towards Puros (another 120 km). We decided not to continue along the Hoanib Riverbed to Amspoort Gorge and then to Puros via the Hoarusib Riverbed, as that would have added more 4WD challenges and even more time. We didn’t want to arrive after dark. This later proved to be a wise decision when we eventually tackled the Hoarusib Riverbed 4WD Trail! It was quite challenging with water, mud, and loose sand (link to report coming).

Wife near Mudorib Waterhole, 
Hoanib Riverbed 4WD Trail,
Namibia, 2024.

The start of the small track from Mudorib Waterhole to Puros was hard to find, but once again, we were thankful for Tracks4Africa, which guided us to the correct starting point (trial and error). 

Track to Puros from Mudorib Waterhole
Namibia, 2024.

Once we found the trailhead, the final stretch – a long drive to Puros – began. First, we traversed areas with large rocks on the track and through the stony desert – totally desolate – and then across sandy plains, equally remote. The whole 120 km journey, and we didn’t encounter a single vehicle or person! This is not a place you want to venture unprepared – always travel with two vehicles and a satellite phone!

Our Land Cruiser and campsite,
Puros, Namibia, 2024.

We finally arrived in Puros, tired but relieved, and found a lovely campsite. You can read more about all our accommodations here (link report) and here (link report).

A journey through our last 7 accommodations in Namibia

Epupa Falls, sunset, Namibia, 2024.

 

This blog post describes our last 7 accommodation spots from Opuwo to Windhoek, via Epupa Falls, the Kunene River, Etosha, and Omaruru. I also talk about small children blocking the road and an attempted scam at the Puma gas station in Ruacana. You can find the first accommondations here (link report)

Opuwo Country Lodge

Arriving at Opuwo Country Lodge,
Opuwo, Namibia, 2024.

As far as I know, this is the only comfortable lodge in Opuwo, and it was a great place to recharge after 7 days in the very remote part of Kaokoland. The lodge is located in the colorful town of Opuwo, where you can see many different ethnic groups in their traditional clothing, which can consist of very few garments and vibrant adornments [udsmykning]! 

Colorful town of Opuwo,
Namibia, 2024.

Opuwo is a fascinating and lively place full of color, but it can also feel a bit overwhelming or intimidating if you're not used to traveling in rural Africa. We last visited 5 years ago (2019), and this time we noticed that the street vendors had become a bit less aggressive, for instance, when refueling diesel, in the parking lot, and while shopping at the Spar supermarket.

Opuwo Country Lodge, infinity pool,
Opuwo, Namibia, 2024.

The lodge itself sits atop a hill and features a striking infinity pool with a beautiful view of the natural surroundings. There’s also a large restaurant, bar, reception area, and decent internet access. The food was really good, and the service was friendly. The rooms were OK but showed signs of age. However, they had everything we needed, including plenty of power outlets, a fridge, and hot water. All in all, it was a great place to recharge for the next part of the journey, but there’s no need to stay longer than a night.

Warning: Children jumping in front of cars on the way from Opuwo to Epupa Falls! 

Friends Land Cruiser on the road ahead,
driving from Opuwo to Epupa Falls,
here without children blocking the road!
Namibia, 2024. 

A very strange and new experience for us was the road from Opuwo to Epupa Falls (C43/D3704). Especially during the first half, we encountered numerous children blocking the road, begging for money, water, lollipops, etc. We've traveled to Namibia six times and have never experienced anything like this before, only minor episodes. 

I believe there were about 15 roadblocks on the way to Epupa Falls. The children only moved aside at the last moment, and some were holding stones in their hands. The most bizarre encounter was with four small children on two donkeys who rode into the middle of the road when they saw us coming. At the same time, from the opposite direction, three cars were speeding towards us, and it’s clear that a tragedy is waiting to happen. Cars driving at 70-120 km/h and children in the road are a dangerous combination. This issue must be addressed as soon as possible! 

Please refrain from handing out lollipops, pencils, etc., through the window—it only encourages dangerous and undesirable behavior and doesn’t help anyone ("white savior syndrome"). Instead, support organizations that help vulnerable populations. I’ve seen several good posts about such organizations on Namibia Facebook pages. If this behavior continues, it will eventually lead to an accident. Also, it will deter many from visiting Epupa Falls.

The most unfortunate aspect is that in the past, we were happy to help by giving water from our car’s tank in very remote areas, in specific situations, to people who politely requested it. Now, with hordes of children begging for sweets and money, it affects those we could have helped in truly remote, dry areas because it’s impossible to stop 15-20 times along a road—and there’s a risk of more children jumping out from the roadside bushes.

Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp 

Entrence, Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp,
Namibia, 2024.

We stayed for 2 nights at campsite 1 in Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp. Campsite 1 was the best campsite, with a beautiful location right by the Kunene River, private electricity, and access to a clean communal ablution block with hot water. In addition, we had free access to the well-maintained lodge with restaurant and bar, which offered good food and drinks. 

Omarunga Epupa-Falls Camp,
Campsite 1, Namibia, 2024.

The only minor issue was that we experienced issues with the internet. You’re allowed a certain amount of data every 24 hours, but in our case, the access didn’t reset after 24 hours. We pragmatically bought two vouchers with plenty of data, but one didn’t work (it was replaced), and the other only worked for a short time. The manager tried tediously to resolve the issue but couldn’t. He saw that someone else was using the code?! The likely explanation is that someone else had accessed the voucher and used the code. The money was refunded, but I wasted a lot of energy on internet issues, something we hadn’t experienced elsewhere. However, it did not spoil the overall good experience with this campsite and lodge.

Sand and palm trees by the riverbank,
45-minute walk from the falls.
Epupa, Namibia, 2024

One day, we walked to see the impressive Epupa waterfalls, which span a large area. And the next day, we walked from the falls to the spot marked "Wilderness Camping" on Tracks4Africa. This is a breathtaking 45-minute walk along the river to an idyllic area of sand and palm trees by the riverbank. I highly recommend the walk. We also tried river rafting on the Kunene River, which I’ve described in a previous report (link report). It’s a very peaceful trip suitable for everyone, unlike our previous experience with canoeing further up the river (link report).

Camp Cornie 

Campsite 1, Camp Cornie,
Namibia, 2024.

Campsite 1, Camp Cornie,
Namibia, 2024.

We stayed for 2 nights at campsite 1 in Camp Cornie, located about 40 km upriver from Epupa Falls. This is a beautifully situated camp, directly on the banks of the Kunene River, with large private spaces, private bathrooms, and electricity outlets. There are large palm trees providing shade, and a beautiful sandy beach (but no swimming due to crocodiles!). The couple who have run the place for about 2 years were very friendly but not very forthcoming. You had to pull information out of them. The canoeing option mentioned on their website wasn’t available during our visit, and there weren’t many tour options. Still, it’s a very beautiful, peaceful, and clean place, with easy access to Epupa Falls. You could easily stay here in peace and take trips to Epupa Falls. 

Swimming pool, Camp Cornie,
Namibia, 2024.

There’s a lovely swimming pool and bar area where you can relax in the shade and cool off in the pool (42°C). Overall, it’s a highly recommended place for those seeking peace and nature. Plus, it had the best internet on the entire trip with free access, in contrast to the previous place!

The Road via D3700 to Ruacana Falls 

D3700, Kunene River, Namibia, 2024.

This stretch was uneventful and fine. I will described the D3700 route in another report (link will follow).

Puma Fuel Stop Ruacana (Scam Warning) 

Illustration only,
(from refueling Puros),
Namibia, 2024

A small warning: we filled up with diesel at the Puma station in Ruacana. There were four pumps, and we were waved over to one, but our friends were also directed to the same pump on the opposite side. The attendant was unusually chatty. I checked that he reset the pump before refueling (based on previous experiences). After refueling, a car pulled up behind ours (despite three other pumps being available), and the attendant asked us to move forward slightly. Fortunately, I checked the amount on the pump (944 NAD) before moving. The attendant then came over with the card terminal, but now the amount had jumped to 1244 NAD, and the pump had been reset. I immediately pointed out that the correct amount was 944 NAD, and the attendant quickly apologized, saying, “I got confused,” and corrected the amount. This was clearly an attempt to scam us out of 300 NAD, involving at least the attendant and the car that pulled up behind us. 

So, be careful! I immediately warned our friends, who took a photo of the pump after refueling. Whether the other attendant and the cashier inside were involved remains uncertain, but none of them seemed particularly surprised. Perhaps Puma should investigate this station! 

Fortunately, we didn’t encounter similar issues at any other gas stations during our 6600 km journey through Namibia and Kgalagadi, but we are always vigilant when refueling.

Dolomite Camp 

Dolomite Camp, Hut 14 to the left!
Etosha, Namibia, 2024.

We spent two nights in huts 14 and 15. Hut 14 has the most incredible view of the waterhole, where we saw a pride of 7 lions when we arrived and throughout the two days we stayed. And no, they weren’t stuffed lions; they roamed freely and scared off the other animals ;-) 

Pool overlooking the "savannah",
Dolomite Camp, Namibia, 2024.

Dolomite Camp is all about location! You stay atop a rocky hill with a magnificent 260-degree view of the area. There’s a pool overlooking the savannah and a beautiful bar/relaxation area. However, the service ranged from poor to decent (depending on the staff), and the food at the restaurant was nothing special but acceptable. You can tell it’s an government-run camp. On the good side, Dolomite is in the far west of Etosha, a more remote part of the park, and the roads in this part were in good condition, except for the short stretches leading to the waterholes, which were very corrugated. 

Galton Gate, Vest Etosha,
Namibia, 2024.

Also, the staff at Galton Gate were friendly and efficient, and it was a good experience using this entrance.

Omurenga Lodge

Namibia, 2024.

We stayed at the luxurious Omurenga Lodge, near Omaruru, for two nights. We had the Giraffe and Leopard villas, both tastefully decorated with high-end amenities! Leopard had a large bathtub, while Zebra featured both indoor and outdoor showers. Both villas came with spacious private terraces equipped with sun loungers, as well as large indoor areas with plenty of space. Naturally, there was air conditioning, a refrigerator, and a variety of creams and shampoos.

Omurenga Lodge, main building by night,
Namibia, 2024.

Zebra Villa, Omurenga Lodge,
Namibia, 2024.

Dining room, Omurenga Lodge,
Namibia, 2024.

The main building included a large dining room and two side wings furnished with leather furniture and books. There was an infinity pool with a stunning view of the surrounding area. Due to a prolonged drought, there weren't many activities available during our stay, but it was only a 40-minute drive to the charming town of Omaruru. 

Wood carving shop, Omaruru,
Namibia, 2024. 

In Omaruru, we visited a great wood carving shop offering high-quality souvenirs. Also, we dined in the small courtyard opposite the Spar across the main road, next to the Pharmacy. The courtyard and café were fantastic, offering a wide range of food and drinks. Their extensive coffee selection and thick milkshakes are highly recommended, and they have free fast 5G internet!

The hostess and staff at Omurenga were exceptionally friendly and attentive, always checking on our well-being. The food was some of the best we’ve experienced in Namibia, and the wines offered were of good quality. The lodge is ideal for a larger group renting multiple rooms or even the whole place, as it can normally accommodate eight guests in four villas, with the option to increase capacity to twelve by including an extra villa.

River Crossing Lodge

Pool (one out of two), 
River Crossing Lodge,
Namibia, 2024.

This was our final accommodation, conveniently located on the road leading to the airport. It’s not a cozy boutique hotel like Olive Grove, but rather a large, practical place with a restaurant, pool, and bar. The staff were friendly, and there are two pools. Our cabin (No. 10) was fine and had air conditioning, but despite waiting a long time, the shower only produced lukewarm water.