Erongo Mountains & Ai Aiba Lodge

Ai Aiba Lodge, sundowner walk

There is a constant hot wind that rises and falls in intensity. Like a hair dryer that goes up and down in speed, but never fails in temperature. We are on the terrace outside our comfortable chalet. It´s  nestled neatly between giant balancing boulders that could crush the small huts at any time. I assume they have been there for thousands of years. Just next to us, the lizards’ (agamas) play around and does not notice our presence. Why should they; they belong to this splendid area in the Erongo Mountains. We are just visitors.

Terrace outside our comfortable chalet

Next to us the lizards play around 

Ai Aiba Lodge is situated 1,200 meters above sea level on the Northwestern side of the mountain range. The name comes from Damara/Nama language and means “someone who leads the way”. Perhaps how to integrate tourism and nature conservation? The natural game in the area includes kudu, springbok, oryx, dik dik, duiker, klipspringer, mountain zebra, giraffe, jackal, leopard, brown hyena, warthog, aardwolf, aardvark, bat eared fox, small spotted genet, African wild cat, porcupine and many more. Nevertheless, it seems like a safe place to walk around, you only see few animals. Look where you place your feet and hands, it´s also an area with occasionally a snake or a scorpion. Should you meet a cat – don´t run (read our two previous posts on animal encounters "animal encounters" & "Don´t run"). 

Leopard turtle (dead), walk, Ai Aiba Lodge

We are here in the beginning of the small rainy season from OCT-NOV. The main rainy season is from JAN-APR. We see the first clouds in the distance, but still no rain.

First clouds, but still no rain

At arrival, the lodge seems a bit unorganized. No welcome committee ready as we have become used to. Finally, a receptionist welcomes us and introduces everything. We are in room 9. This appears to be a rather large lodge and it´s quite busy with clients right now. Perhaps also because of German autumn school holiday which means many German couples and their children are on the premises. 

We are not used to the lager lodges but have been spoiled by intimate luxury lodges with a personal appeal or visiting very remote locations (Moon base Alpha [in Danish] link). At dinner first night, children are playing everywhere including inside the restaurant, not exactly candlelight romantics.

 At arrival, we are offered a sunset walk to a nearby mountain peak. It turns out to be a party of seventeen (!) newly arrived guests alone with one guide only (!) It would have been reasonable to split into at least two groups, families with their children and couples. After this peculiar “experience”, we decide only to book additional excursions given the group is not too large. Fortunately, there is a nice pool with stunning views.  

Swimming pool, Ai Aiba

Sunset from poolarea, Ai Aiba Lodge

Next morning we do our own walk along the well-marked trail next to the lodge. It´s only 1 km but takes 45 mins because of the many rock boulders to navigate and interesting bushman paintings. It´s easy to follow the guiding signs. 

Well marked trail next to lodge

The 2nd evening, we enjoy the sunset in sun chairs by the swimming pool. Afterwards a peaceful dinner in the restaurant – this time only nice children playing on the lawn outside. We are impressed by the high quality of the food in this lodge compared to other good lodges. 

Ai Aiba Lodge, sunset

Third day, we got our own guide for a 2,5 hour morning walk on the plains below the mountains. It was very beautiful and relaxing. If we were to visit again, we would ask for a full day walk.  

Walking with guide, Ai Aiba Lodge

Walking with guide, Ai Aiba Lodge

Scenery during walk, Ai Aiba Lodge

Pros

• Spectacular (!) setting in Erongo Mountains
• Nice comfortable clean spacious chalet with air con
• Large pool area
• Perfect with small children
• Good wine list (try the Snow Mountain pinot noir & Groote Post riesling)
• High quality food

Con

• Rather big lodge = many guests
• Many families with young children “all over the place” in school holidays
• A bit disorganized / busy, no personal feel
• Many guests per guide, however we got private guide on request

På vandretur i Kalahari med buskmænd

Central Kalahari, 6. august.

 Strudseæg?

Hvad er det?
Central Kalahari 2012.

Vi er på vandretur med buskmændene i Central Kalahari. Vi går på række gennem bushen fra busk til busk, mens vi (de) leder efter forråd. Vi kommer forbi endnu en busk, der ligner alle de andre til forveksling bortset fra lille række små pinde på nedenfor busken, 5-6 stykker i alt. Hertil en tot græs i toppen af busken. ”Hvad er det?", spørger buskmanden os forventningsfuldt. Vi vil naturligvis gerne vise den flinke buskmand, at vi ikke er helt tabt bag en vogn, selv om den eneste ørken i Danmark ligger på Anholt! Og det her virker da rimeligt gennemskueligt! ”Det er en fælde til dyr”, svarer vi ganske stolte over vores store viden. Buskmanden smiler overbærende, ”det er kun en snydefælde, for at hyæner og sjakaler skal tro, at der er en fælde”. Han fjerner pindene og graver forsigtigt ca. 50 centimeter ned i sandet. Frem dukker et stort strudseæg med to små huller, som er lukket med nogle bestemte blade. Han fjerner bladene og drikker vand. Han forklarer ”vi graver strudseæggene ned forskellige steder i bushen . De fungerer som vanddepoter. Vi kan genkende dem pga. græsset i busken”. Det er helt ubegribeligt for os, hvordan de kan genkende busken med vanddepot på grund af en tot græs. Central Kalahari Game Reserve er 53.000 km2 stort – ca. 60 gange Bornholms størrelse. Her er rigtig meget græs og rigtig mange buske! Hertil kommer et endnu større område udenfor selve Central Kalahari Game Reserve blot kaldet Central Kalahari. Buskmændene viser os også en busk, som tager hovedpine, hvis man indånder røgen fra bladene. En busk som kurerer barnløshed, hvis man drikker the fra bladene i et halvt år (hmm). De viser os også nødder og bær, som kan spises. Vi prøver flere af dem. Endelig viser e os en busk, som er god til at lave gravepinde. Et af de allerførste redskaber mennesker brugte...

Strudseæg gemt som vanddepoter
Kalahari ørkenen 2012

Ild og dyrefælder

Ild frembringes med træpinde fra en særlig busk (der er dog også en ”reserve busk”, som ikke er helt lige så god). Buskmændene laver ild, så vi kan smage ristede nødder. En pind hviler på jorden, mens den anden roteres hurtigt mellem hænderne, så der frembringes friktionsenergi. Pludselig er der en glød. Gløden lægges ned i en gammel fuglerede, og der pustes, indtil flammen springer frem! Bagefter laver Thea og Laust ild under kyndig buskmand instruktion. Det er anden gang på 3 år de laver ild med pinde ;-) 

Laust og Thea lærer at lave ild under kyndig vejledning af Buskmænd
Central Kalahari 2012

Vi får også demonstreret, hvordan man laver reb og bruger rebet til at lave dyrefælder. Buskkvinderne følger os på behørig afstand, men vi følger i hælene på jægerne. Endelig prøver vi at skyde med bue og pil. Af sikkerhedshensyn får vi dog kun ugiftige pile! Giften er dødbringende og stammer fra en særlig orm, som bor på en bestemt busk.

Laust øver bueskydning
Central Kalahari 2012

Vores tro følgesvende i bushen
Central Kalahari 2012

Buskmændene har levet på denne måde i Kalahari i mindst 20.000 år – formentlig nærmere 60.000 år. Det er en højt raffineret civilisation. Det er en meget stor oplevelse at følge dem gennem bushen.