Full day canyon drive at Fish River Lodge

 

Fish River Canyon, full day canyon drive
from Fish River Lodge

We leave Fish River Lodge at 7 a.m. for the "full day canyon drive". Over the next seven hours, we will follow what should be the “only access route by vehicle” into Fish River Canyon descending approx. 500 m to the riverbed in a Toyota Land Cruiser. 

For obvious reasons, this trip cannot be recommended if you are scared of hights. Most of the seven hours, we drive right along the edge of the gorge with free fall on one side! Thus, we are sneaking in low gear with diff lock on. On this route, you want the engine to hold the car back - not the brakes, which would overheat fast!

Full day canyon drive, Fish River Lodge

Occasionally, we pass steep obstacles where we cannot see what is just on the other side of the top. It is an advantage that our driver and guide "Action" (!) has driven this route before.

Full day canyon drive, interesting track

As we journey into the depths of the canyon, we witness first-hand the millions of years of geological upheaval when the earth’s continents separated, and tectonic movement resulted in the formation of the canyon. Petrified rippled mud and glacial deposits, dramatic fault lines, rough limestone, and shiny quartzite are some of the features we see along the way. 

Fish River Canyon, geology

Nearby, we are lucky to see Hartmann's mountain zebras (Equus zebra hartmannae) and a Klipspringer (Oreotragus oreotragus) along with other animals and birds.

Underway, we take small breaks at beautiful viewpoints!

Break, full day canyon drive

The drive down ends at a permanent rock pool, where we swim and have lunch for one hour, before we head the same long way back to the Lodge! 

Permanent rock pool,
Fish River Canyon

Swim, Fish River Canyon

Fish! Fish River Canyon

When we come back to the lodge after a long day, we swap from rock pool at the bottom of Fich River Canyon to the infinity pool at the top of Fish River Canyon!

Fish River Lodge, rim pool

Resting by pool, 
Fish River Lodge

We liked this activity very much, not the least because of the safe and careful driving by our guide Action, who also had to change a tire after only 10 mins drive!

Fish River Lodge

Fish River Lodge

 

Fish River Lodge, rim pool

We are staying in Fish River Lodge. Literally, as they write on their homepage “on the edge of eternity”. We are in the last of their chalets with undisturbed views to the canyon and southwest. The tall windows and terrace outside allow views of the canyon to take priority everywhere. 

Our chalet terrace with undisturbed views
to the canyon and southwest

Our chalet terrace and sun platform

Our chalet is in a very modern style and in fantastic condition when we arrive. Everything is perfectly cleaned, a standard that is maintained over the next 3 days (perfect housekeeping). We have both outdoor and indoor showers, a large bedroom with a view, and a platform outside where we can lie and enjoy the undisturbed view. In addition, we find all the small necessities that you expect in a hotel.

Our bed, Fish River Lodge

Indoor shower

 

Outdoor shower

The main lodge itself is also incredibly beautifully built on the edge of the Fish River Canyon, with spectacular views everywhere. A spectacular rim pool provides cool comfort in the hot summer months also overlooking the canyon and nature park.

Lodge on edge of Fish River Canyon

Rim pool, Fish River Lodge (!)

The 45,000-hectare Canyon Nature Park is a sanctuary for the nature, including the rare Hartman’s zebra, oryx antelope and ostriches, which appear and disappear in the rocky side canyons.

Good trekking opportunities! 

We love to hike! (See our hiking Namibia link) And the Fish River Canyon is a top hiking destination. And Fish River Lodge has access down to the Fish River and meandering paths on the rim of the canyon. 

First day, we take the short rim walk for 1,5 hours.

View to lodge (distance) from rim walk

Second day, we take the full day canyon drive (see our report link) 

Full day canyon drive, Fish River Lodge

Followed by the longer rim walk for 3 hours (!)

The Fish River Lodge, some opportunities for improvements

One of the minor opportunities for improvement was the restaurant, where we found the service to be of very variable nature. Fortunately, always friendly, but not always very professional. Orders and requests were forgotten more than once, and guests (including us) sometimes placed very close to the hot fireplace. However, when the problems were pointed out, the staff immediately reacted (but sometimes forgot again). The restaurant did not provide the same "luxury sensation" as the rest of the lodge.

Another thing to be aware of is that the lodge is extremely exposed to wind. Two out of three nights, we had very loud wind noise all night, partly due to the construction of the roof. For the same reason, there are earplugs in the chalets, which you can choose to use. Also, there is no air conditioning in the chalets, but a fan and high ceilings. It can probably be a challenge on very hot days!

However, all in all we loved the place and would be happy to return. 

A secret gem: Arimas River Road (D463 from vest / C13)

D463 "Arimas River Road" start

D463 from C13 (vest) is a secret gem!

Namibia is the perfect country for awesome road trips! Often visitors report the most beautiful roads of Namibia that you really shouldn’t miss. We have already had the privilege to try many of these visiting Namibia five times. 

Now we will tell you a secret! On this trip, we found the most fantastic road that we have never heard of before! Let's call it "Arimas River Road". It connects the “Diamond Sperrgebiet” east border and the Fish River Canyon´s western parts. A secret gem!

D463´s start from C43 - expect 3 fantastic hours
(Without punctures)

When we stayed at Eagle's Nest in Klein Aus Vista (link), our next destination was Fish River Lodge (link) on the western rim of Fish River Valley. From the travel agency, we were advised to drive along the large paved B4 road towards Keetmanshoop, and then drive south on the D463 to reach the track towards Fish River Lodge. However, at the Tracks4Africa app (highly recommended), we could spot another tempting route! 

• Instead, take D463 from C13 (the road to Rosh Pinah) 👍
• Also possible other way around; D463 from the entrance to Fish River Lodge track to C13 
• However, the part of D463 from the entrance to Fish River Lodge track to B4 is not very interesting

Tracks¤Africa App
Take D463 from C13

We ask about the road conditions at the reception in the Desert Horse Inn Lodge. We are advised it should be possible as long as there is no rain, as we have to cross several riverbeds. We inform the reception that we will take this route instead thus they can send a rescue party if we do not show up at Fish River Lodge. It turnes out to be one of the most stunningly beautiful routes we've driven on five trips to Namibia!

The start from Klein Aus Vista towards Rosh Pinah by C13 is magnificent with a fantastic view of the “Diamond Sperrgebiet” on the right hand.

C13 with “Diamond Sperrgebiet” on the right hand.

After we turn off the D463 towards east, we only meet one car for the next 3 hours!! In the beginning, we have beautiful mountains on our left hand. (Mt Witputkuppe 1351m & Mt. Nasepberg). Also, we see the most wonderful mountain formations with many different layers in the rocks. 

D463

D463, a break, what a view!

We pass some farm gates, and now, the road follows the Arimas Riverbed, which we cross several times. It is so beautiful and endlessly desolate! 

Dry riverbed, Arimas River

After two hours' drive along D463, we cross two larger - but fine - passages of the river, where it widens and there is more vegetation. 

D463, larger riverbed

This could be challenging places if there was water! Finally, we reach the D459, which we pass on our left hand on the way to the beginning of the track to Fish River Lodge. After D459 (still on D463), we pass the very beautiful "Konkiep River Crossing", where there is actually reed forest (!)

D463 in the distance

We are relieved when we finally reach the entrance gate at the track to Fish River Lodge (and 45 mins. more interesting drive). 

Track to Fish River Lodge from D463

It has been a very desolate absolutely stunningly beautiful tour!

Enjoying the surroundings D463 

Word of warning:

• Very desolate, far from help
• No cell phone reception
• 4WD is recommended (but unproblematic for us in dry weather)
• Bring plenty of water (at least 5L per person)

Other roads in Namibia we loved, read our posts:

• C34 driving along Skeleton Coast (link)  
• D3700 along Kunene River (link)
• Into Damaraland along C39 (link)
• C43 towards Sesfontain (link)
• From Orupempe into Marienfluss (link in Danish)

Trekking at Klein Aus Vista & Schutztruppe Trail

 

Trekking at Klein Aus Vista, Schutztruppe Trail view point

Next full day at Klein Aus Vista, we head for one of the hiking trails, the 11 km “Schutztruppe Trail”. 

We start at the campsite, where we stayed in 2009 and follow the trail as it climbs 400m to the viewpoint with its breath-taking views over the desert plains down below. This is how far we got with our two young children in 2009. We spend some time here again, now 13 years later, and recall the many wonderful trips with our children to Namibia while we try to locate the exact same spot, we took a photo. We absorb the energy from the surroundings, enjoying the expansive view over the endless desert horizons.

Schutztruppe Trail

Once recharged, we return back the same way before our trail descends into a small valley, where we cross the dry riverbed. We continue over the mountain foot slopes, strewn with numerous big boulders and occasional trees. When we hit a T- junction, we turn right and pass through a gate. Then we walk along a beautiful and alley-like row of trees, past huge boulders, and connect with a dry riverbed.

Then, the trail joins one of the Schutztruppe support roads that linked the frontline in the west to the water and provision supplies in the east of the Aus Mountains.

Schutztruppe Trail

We descend down into the Geisterschlucht Valley (Ghost Valley) on a steep and winding track, the same that the foot soldiers, mules and horses used to cross the mountains during WW1. 

Descend down into Geisterschlucht Valley
 (Ghost Valley)

We pass an old Hudson car with bullet holes (!)

 

Diamond thieves and bullet holes!

Towards the end of the trail, we see well-preserved ramparts and try to imagine what it was like to be in the position of German soldiers, crouching behind the ramparts while waiting for the enemy.

Old ramparts

Finally, we reach the campsite again after a splendid hike.

We wish we had time to do some longer trails - we have to return again in the future!

The ghost town Kolmanskop

 

Wife relaxing in Kolmanskop 

Kolmanskop / Kolmannskuppe

The Ghost Town

On the way to Lüderitz, we visit the nearby ghost town “Kolmanskop”, which is 10 km inland from Lüderitz. Once a small but very rich mining village, now a major tourist destination, where we had the most fantastic guide and time. We did not really have any expectations, but we were surprised by how fascinating the history of the place - and not least abandoned buildings - were. Amazing what was once constructed in this isolated place!

Kolmanskop

  

Kolmanskop bowling

Kolmanskop power

Kolmanskop hospital

Kolmanskop hospital

Kolmanskop hospital

 

Kolmanskop hospital

 

Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop tapestry

Kolmanskop

After Kolmanskop, we head to Lüderitz, a town known for its colonial architecture, including some Art Nouveau work, and for wildlife including seals, penguins, flamingos and ostriches (wiki link).

On the way to Lûderitz

Way to Lûderitz

We have a wonderful lunch at "Essenzeit" overlooking the ships in "Robert Harbour" 

Pier Lüderitz & Essenzeit restaurant

Pier Lûderitz