Trekking at Klein Aus Vista & Schutztruppe Trail

 

Trekking at Klein Aus Vista, Schutztruppe Trail view point

Next full day at Klein Aus Vista, we head for one of the hiking trails, the 11 km “Schutztruppe Trail”. 

We start at the campsite, where we stayed in 2009 and follow the trail as it climbs 400m to the viewpoint with its breath-taking views over the desert plains down below. This is how far we got with our two young children in 2009. We spend some time here again, now 13 years later, and recall the many wonderful trips with our children to Namibia while we try to locate the exact same spot, we took a photo. We absorb the energy from the surroundings, enjoying the expansive view over the endless desert horizons.

Schutztruppe Trail

Once recharged, we return back the same way before our trail descends into a small valley, where we cross the dry riverbed. We continue over the mountain foot slopes, strewn with numerous big boulders and occasional trees. When we hit a T- junction, we turn right and pass through a gate. Then we walk along a beautiful and alley-like row of trees, past huge boulders, and connect with a dry riverbed.

Then, the trail joins one of the Schutztruppe support roads that linked the frontline in the west to the water and provision supplies in the east of the Aus Mountains.

Schutztruppe Trail

We descend down into the Geisterschlucht Valley (Ghost Valley) on a steep and winding track, the same that the foot soldiers, mules and horses used to cross the mountains during WW1. 

Descend down into Geisterschlucht Valley
 (Ghost Valley)

We pass an old Hudson car with bullet holes (!)

 

Diamond thieves and bullet holes!

Towards the end of the trail, we see well-preserved ramparts and try to imagine what it was like to be in the position of German soldiers, crouching behind the ramparts while waiting for the enemy.

Old ramparts

Finally, we reach the campsite again after a splendid hike.

We wish we had time to do some longer trails - we have to return again in the future!

Klein Aus Vista & Eagle's Nest Chalets

Eagle´s Nest: Eagles View Chalet

 

Eagle's Nest Chalets: Eagels View

Last time we visited Klein Aus Vista was with our two children in 2009. At that time, we were absolutely stunned by the vast landscape, solitude, silence, and the extraordinary sunsets over the Namib Desert. Especially, by the special next door “Diamond Sperrgebiet”. We always hoped, we once would be able to return again one day and explore the area. What a privilege to be here again! 

Back at Klein Aus Vista after 13 years

The next-door Diamond Sperrgebiet is a prohibited diamond-rich area in the most southern part of the Namib Desert. It stretches along the Atlantic coast from Oranjemund & Orange River in the south - all the way north - to about 72 km north of the coastal town Lüderitz. The area is approx. 97 km wide and 322 km long. From 1908 until the early 21st century, all access by unauthorized persons was rigidly prohibited. Even today, you cannot move around freely, but you are allowed to follow the marked trails.

Trails Klein Aus Vista

In 2009, we stayed at the nice campsite. However, this time, we upgraded to the Eagle's Nest Chalets which is eight amazing individual rock chalets literally built into large granite boulders with a rugged granite-gneiss mountain as the backdrop.

Eagle's Nest Chalets: Eagle´s View

Eagle's Nest Chalets: Eagle´s View

Interior, Eagle´s Nest

The view from our terrace is amazing. Above, eagles soar, and in front, the expansive views take our breath away.

Expansive views from terrace

At night, we sleep without any curtains for the windows. Its full moon. A lizard plays on one of the windows and captured by the camera from our bed. It´s the most amazing sight (& picture): A lizard on the window in front of the full moon. 

From our bed, a lizard on the window
in front of the full moon!

From the end of our large double bed, which leans against a huge granite boulder, we have an undisturbed clear view of the Namib desert with mountains in the distance.

Our bed, Eagle´s View Chalets

Bed view

Just as we are about to sleep, we hear a strange sound?! It gradually gets louder and louder. It sounds like an engine? Is a car coming now? This late? At this remote place!? Or is it a helicopter? We see lights in the far distance. We realize it is the solitary train from moving slowly on its way to Lüderitz 120 km further vest, where it will pick up uranium. We fall back asleep relieved.

Train to Lûderitz, sunset

At night at two o'clock, my wife suddenly wakes up. She has a strange feeling that someone is watching us. And indeed, just outside our panoramic window, 3 wild desert horses are standing next to our braai pit (grill), which is still warm after we cooked game for dinner in the evening.

Horses at full moon next to braaai

At last, we hear no more sounds this night. The lizards and voles don't bother us.

We want to stay here forever. Just relax, read books, and cook on the fire, and eat in our private “desert restaurant” while appreciating the spectacular boundless space.

Sunset Eagle´s Nest

Roadblock, on way to Eagle´s Nest

PRO´s

• Very kind service at the Desert Horse Inn Lodge (reception)
• Amazing architecture and spectacular views from Eagles Nest
• Extraordinary fine cabins with everything you need available
• Fine well marked walking trails

CON´s

• In some places the nearby nature appears a little worn / overused
• Perhaps a bit busy at the lodge with many visitors
• Not a "posh" luxury place (but friendly)

Braai, Eagle´s Nest

Braai, Eagle´s Nest

BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse and Naukluft Mountains

BuellsPort lodge & Farmhouse
Enterence gate

BuellsPort lodge & Farmhouse
From road

BuellsPort Lodge & Farmhouse is the perfect base for exploring the Naukluft Mountains. It´s run by the Sauber family, who has been living here for decades. It´s not a fancy lodge at all, but a genuine Namibian guest farm where we felt very welcome.

Every evening, we had a solid three-course dinner on the terrace outside the main living room. In the morning, a small buffet breakfast. On demand, lunch. You can select anything to drink from the small self-service bar, register your purchase in a small notebook, and settle the account at departure.

Solid three-course dinner
 on the terrace, BuellsPort 

Dinner, BuellsPort

We stayed in one of the “luxury rooms” behind the main house. It was perfect with all necessities and air-condition. A small pool and sun chairs next to the farm-house came in handy in the heat.

Pool, BuellsPort

The staff were all extraordinary kind, and it was also a pleasure to talk to the owners of the farm; Johanna and Ernst - and play with their three kind dogs.

Loves to play!

The main attraction at BullsPort are all the walking tracks in Naukluft Mountains and the horse riding (if you ride). We enjoyed the two most scenic (?) walking tracks in the area, a) the Quivertree George Trail (see our description link) and the Arch Trail.

Walking trails from BuellsPort,
Naukluft Mountains

The name Naukluft derives from narrow george. It´s a rugged mountainous area hiding deep ravines, plunging georges, crystal clear rock pools and a variety of game surrounded, all by desert. If you want to explore the area in full, there should be a 120 km eight-day Naukluft Hiking Trail inside the park (NWR - we did not explore this opportunity – should be one of the hardest trails in Southern Africa).

It´s an ideal mountainous area for leopards, but we did not see any, but we saw many Hartmann´s mountain zebras on steep slopes.

After we had completed the Quivertree George Trail on our own, we took the Arch Trail together with the owner Ernst Sauber. What an extraordinary day!

Resting near the Arch with our guide Ernst

The Arch, near BuellsPort

See our five best walking experiences in Namibia (link)

BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse:

PRO´s

• Perfect walking area with well-marked trails
• Genuine “guest farm” atmosphere with kind staff (and dog)
• Solid and good quality food “farm style”
• Nice “luxury” room
• We loved it

CON´s 

• Do not expect luxury lodge designer style
• Pool / guest areas could need an update

Our five best walking experiences in Namibia & bonus

Walking in Erongo Mountains

Best walking trails / tours in Namibia?

It´s hard to rank our best walking experiences in Namibia. We tend to like all the activities we book, and we like new challenges. However, based on five times in Namibia for 4-5 weeks every time, this is our “top five walking experiences in Namibia" (you are free to share links). 

The two first are shared number ones:

• Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail

Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail,
Crystal Mountain Camp

We trekked through one of Namibia’s most remote and untouched landscapes on foot in 2019. Had sundowners overlooking never ending vistas of ancient rock formations and slept under a blanket of amazing stars. This was a unique opportunity to connect with nature. Especially Crystal Mountain Camp, we found to be one of the most incredible places we have ever stayed. The only thing we would do different next time: Stay out an extra night at Crystal Mountain (3 night’s tour instead of 2). 

Read our full Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail report here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2019/08/etendeka-overnight-walking-trail.html ).

Also, read our description of the Etendeka Plateau, an unique hauntingly beautiful desolate landscape here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2019/08/etendeka-plateau-unique-hauntingly.html 

• Walking in Mundulea Private Reserve

Walking safari,
Mundulea Private Reserve

Mundulea, our tent

We did this walk 14 days ago. We walked for three days (3 nights) with the owner and specialist guide Bruno. He was an absolute extraordinary person with extreme knowledge about the nature. He literally knows all about plants, animals, insects, minerals, landscaping etc, and he is involved in multiple research projects and nature activities. Also, he has served as a photographer for National Geographic.  Our camp had the outline of a “kraal”; a fence of wooden sticks provide some protection against predators during night. We slept in simple – but fully adequate – tents with mosquito nets and an open bathroom. We checked the floor for snakes and scorpions, whenever we stepped out of our bed or entered the open-air bathroom. Our shoes were placed on hangers under the roof and bags kept zipped on tables all time. Nevertheless, we felt completely safe in this small paradise. Or as Bruno expressed it “Don´t mind all the sounds during the night, you are safe in your tent".  Every day, we did two daily walks 2-5 hours with Bruno as an extraordinary source of nature information.

Read our full Mundulea report here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/10/did-you-see-leopard.html

Read our story about “the tiger” a Mundulea here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/10/a-tiger-tiger-tiger.html

Now for the shared number two:

•  Tok Tokkie Trails in Namibrand Nature Reserve

Open air bedroom, Tok Tokkie Trails

This was a three days (2 nights) walking experience in stunning Namibrand Nature Reserve. We were exposed to extreme temperatures, but also to truly spectacular nature and an overwhelming night sky. We covered approx. 20 km in Namibrand Nature Reserve on foot and slept in open air. Wherever we looked around, we were surrounded by red / brown mountains and desert plains.

Read our full report on Tok Tokkie Trails here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/11/tok-tokkie-trails-namib-desert.html )

•  Walking with Bushmen i Kalahari Desert near Tsumkwe

Our son, Central Kalahari 2012,
(did not have 2009 photos at hand)

We stayed at Nhoma village for 2 nights in 2009 together with our children, at that time 9 and 10 years old. This is still one of our most memorable experiences in Namibia, especially doing it together with our children. We walked through Kalahari Desert with the bushmen for up to 7 hours per day and visited their nearby village. Our children learned how to make fire, make bird traps (and did catch birds!), catch a porcupine, and how to get honey from a hollow tree etc. The children played with the children in Nhoma village, and we all participated in games and dances in the evening. At the same time, we slept in nice and comfortable surroundings in Nhoma Safari Camp.

I heard there is new owners now, but from the homepage, it seems to be the same concept. Might not be an experience for everyone, especially if you don´t like to interact.

Link to Nhoma Safari Camp homepage https://www.nhomasafaricamp.com/

Least but not last:

• Quivertree George Trail / Arch Trail in Naukluft mountains

Quivertree George Trail

Quivertree George Trail, klipspringer

Rock Arch

We headed for the Quivertree George Walking Trail from BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse. At the end of the day, this turned out to be one of the most fantastic trails we have hiked in Africa so far! Perhaps only surpassed by the "Etendeka Overnight Walking Trail" (see above) and our recent 3 days walking safari in Mundulea Private Reserve (see above). However, they were both several-days walking experiences, whereas Quivertree George Trail is a 5-7 hours tour. Next day, we took the “Arch trail”, truly magnificent! 

There are many good walking trails starting from BullsPort Lodge & Farmhouse, where we had our comfortable base and enjoyed extraordinary hospitality from the owners and genuine friendly staff.

Read our full report Quivertree George Trail here: https://recollectionsafrica.blogspot.com/2022/10/quivertree-gorge-trail-excellent-route.html ) 

Finally, two recommended experiences outside Namibia:

Chimanimani Mountains, Zimbabwe 1997

• Another amazing experience was to trek through the Chimanimani Mountains in Zimbabwe 1997  – but that is not Namibia
•  And walking alone in the untouched tropical rainforest of Nyungwe National Park in Rwanda for two days (take a guide!! - but that is another story)

 Link to https://www.nyungweforestnationalpark.org/untouched-tropical-rainforest/