Showing posts with label luxury lodges. Show all posts
Showing posts with label luxury lodges. Show all posts

Friday, 14 August 2026

The Desert Grace – A Luxurious Stop in the Desert

 

The Desert Grace bar
Namibia 2026

The Journey Through the Namib Desert


Most often excellent roads in Namibia
Grader working
Namibia 2026


We are heading towards Swakopmund, where we will cross the two spectacular mountain passes of Gaub and Kuiseb. To make the journey a little less demanding, we have decided to break it up with one luxurious overnight stop at The Desert Grace.

On our way to Desert Grace, we fill up with diesel in Sesriem. It pays to take advantage of every opportunity to refuel, even though our Toyota Hilux can manage around 1,200 kilometres with its additional tank. You simply never know when the next fuel station might have run dry.

The road along the C27 through the NamibRand Nature Reserve is exactly as corrugated as we remember it from previous journeys. The relentless shaking is somewhat softened by the sight of a large group of zebra and the spectacular scenery all around us.

The final section via the C19 from Sesriem towards Solitaire is much the same, although this time we encounter considerably more oncoming traffic. Most vehicles leave behind an enormous 500-metre-long cloud of dust, so it becomes important to react quickly and switch the ventilation system to recirculation before the dust gets inside.

The shaking on Namibia's corrugated roads is appropriately known as the “Bush Massage”. One trick is to maintain around 70–90 km/h, allowing the vehicle to float over the corrugations rather than hitting every ridge individually. You just have to remember to slow down again for the bends, some of which have the rather unfortunate characteristic of being “cambered the wrong way”, towards the edge of the road. And, of course, there are the occasional unexpected potholes and water crossings to watch out for.

All in all, though, Namibia's roads are quite remarkable — particularly considering the distances involved. The major gravel roads are generally very well maintained, and driving them is very much part of the Namibian adventure.


Arrival at The Desert Grace


Pink refrigerator, The Desert Grace
Near Solitaire, Namibia 2026


Eventually, after the shaking and the dust, we reach the turn-off to The Desert Grace and the approximately 12-kilometre private road leading to the lodge.

Here we encounter the first gimmick.

At the top of a small hill stands a completely pink refrigerator, inviting travellers to stop for a break. Pink is, as we soon discover, something of a trademark at The Desert Grace .

We park, walk up the hill and help ourselves to some homemade, ice-cold juice from the refrigerator while enjoying the view across the surrounding desert.

A charming and original idea — and a rather promising start.


The Desert Grace private road
Namibia 2026


First Impressions of the Lodge

When we arrive at The Desert Grace itself, the lodge appears almost completely isolated in the desert. Everything is beautifully maintained, carefully designed and immaculate.

As expected, we are greeted with warm, damp towels and another refreshing drink. Our rooms are not quite ready, so the staff direct us to the bar, appropriately named “One Night in Namibia”, where we settle down on the terrace.

Looking around, it is immediately clear that this is a very impressive property. The architecture and interiors are dominated by modern design and a sense of considerable luxury. Everything is spotless and maintained to an almost obsessive degree.

It is quite a contrast to our stay at the Family Hideout — perhaps precisely why it works so well as a short stop between two longer and more adventurous stays.


Our Private Desert Villas

Eventually, we are shown to our “rooms”.

In reality, they are small, completely independent little houses, situated at the end of a 200-metre-long raised concrete walkway above the surrounding terrain.

A member of staff formally sets off with our luggage on a gleaming, chrome luggage trolley.

It looks slightly surreal here in the middle of the desert.

But then again, that is part of the concept — and clearly something they have perfected here.


Towards our rooms
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


The accommodation is spectacular and in absolutely pristine condition. There isn't a speck of dust anywhere. The bathroom is enormous, with both indoor and outdoor showers, while the toilet has a direct view of the desert through a huge glass panel.

There is also a completely private terrace with its own little plunge pool.

Unfortunately, the water is decidedly chilly at this time of year.

We spend the afternoon relaxing in the sunshine on our private terrace, enjoying the luxury — and, not least, washing the accumulated dust of the desert off ourselves.


Own private plunge pool and peace
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


Our room
The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


Dinner and the Group Dynamic

In the evening, dinner is served in the stylish restaurant, with enormous glass panels overlooking the desert. We are given what is probably the best table in the restaurant, with a beautiful view towards a distant ridge of red dunes.

There is, however, one cloud on the horizon.


The buffet, The Desert Grace
Namibia 2026


A large coach group with visitors from the other side of the world arrives for dinner. They are accommodated around a large communal table and, throughout the evening, there is a constant flow of people coming and going from the table, creating considerably more noise and activity than the other guests had expected in what otherwise feels like a very peaceful and exclusive lodge.

The buffet also becomes something of a spectacle. Almost immediately after arriving, several of these guests head for the meat station — while others make a beeline for the dessert section. The following morning, the same group effectively empties parts of the breakfast buffet while preparing substantial packed lunches for the day ahead, wrapping the food in napkins and packing it into their bags.

It is, in its own way, an interesting observation of how differently people can approach a communal buffet and group holiday dynamics.

But for us, the sheer size and activity of the group rather changes the atmosphere of the lodge. We later hear that large organised tour groups are a relatively regular occurrence here, and it is probably the main reason why we would choose somewhere smaller and more private next time.

Fortunately, this does not prevent us from having a very enjoyable evening.


Night Sky and Scorpion Walk


We find numerous small scorpions
Can be deadly for small children
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026


Later, we join one of the highlights of our stay: a private night-sky and scorpion walk.

Armed with UV torches, we head out into the darkness to search for scorpions among the rocks and sand while simultaneously enjoying the spectacular Namibian night sky.

And yes — the scorpions really do glow under ultraviolet light.

Our guide is exceptionally knowledgeable and pleasant, and we find numerous small scorpions during the walk. They may be tiny, but they are certainly not harmless. A sting is extremely painful and can be deadly for small children, while healthy adults will typically survive it but may endure several days of significant pain.

They are the same general type of creature that I had rather more intimate contact with during our previous journey to the Kalahari — an experience you can read about here (link).


We are enjoying the African night sky
The Desert Grace, Namibia 2026


Standing beneath the enormous African night sky, surrounded by nothing but desert and darkness, is a wonderful way to end the day.


Final Thoughts


The Desert Grace near Solitaire
Nice but one cloud on the horizon
Namibia 2026


If it were not for the large organised tour group from the other side of the world, I would probably give The Desert Grace the highest possible rating as a one-night stop between Sesriem and Swakopmund.

Instead, I will settle for saying that it was a comfortable and enjoyable place to recharge our batteries — and, equally importantly, to get the desert dust out of our clothes and bodies.

For us, however, the experience also confirms that next time we would probably choose somewhere smaller and more private.

Tomorrow, we continue towards Swakopmund — with the Gaub and Kuiseb passes waiting ahead.

Friday, 7 August 2026

Back to the Kalahari Desert

Back to the Kalahari – Sharing Our Favourite African Destination


Our Dune Chalet and view Kalahari Desert
Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
Namibia 2026

It is wonderful to finally share our favourite part of Africa with my brother and sister-in-law. After years of talking about Namibia's vast landscapes, extraordinary wildlife and endless open spaces, they are now about to experience it for themselves.

From Windhoek we head south into the Kalahari Desert, where we will spend two nights in one of the spectacular Dune Chalets at Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, perched high on top of the red sand dunes.

Rather than following the obvious route south along the B1, we choose the quieter and far more scenic C23 through the countryside. The road winds its way across Nauaspoort Pass, past the tiny historic German fort at Klein Neuas, before continuing via the C21 and D1268 to Bagatelle.

One thing immediately catches our attention. Compared with our previous visits, Namibia seems cleaner than ever. On previous visits, it was not uncommon to see discarded plastic bottles, cans and other rubbish along some of the roads. Today, it is surprisingly rare. Considerable effort has clearly gone into protecting the country's natural environment, and it shows. Few African countries can match Namibia's combination of well-maintained roads and pristine landscapes.


Sunset over Kalahari Desert
Bagatelle Kalahari Guest Farm
Namibia 2026


Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, Dune Chalets

Our arrival at Bagatelle sets the tone perfectly. The reception staff greet us with warm, moist towels to refresh our hands and faces, followed by a generous glass of sparkling wine—alcoholic or non-alcoholic, according to preference. After a short tour of the beautifully designed main lodge, we are shown to our two Dune Chalets, each standing on its own private sand dune with uninterrupted views across the Kalahari.

Unlike the dramatic sand seas of the Namib Desert, the Kalahari is a semi-arid sandy savanna. Its characteristic deep red dunes are stabilised by grasses and scattered acacia trees rather than constantly shifting with the wind. The result is a surprisingly green and surprisingly rich ecosystem, supporting an abundance of wildlife despite the dry climate.

We first stayed in these Dune Chalets with our children back in 2009, and although they were already memorable, the accommodation has been upgraded considerably since then. The spacious chalets now stand elegantly on stilts above the sand, each with a large private terrace overlooking the desert.

Inside, a charming claw-foot bathtub faces the panoramic windows. Naturally, it has to be tested. There are certainly worse places in the world to enjoy a hot bath than overlooking the endless red dunes of the Kalahari. A comfortable king-size bed with mosquito nets completes the room, although at this time of year there are virtually no mosquitoes to worry about.


Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
Namibia 2026


Wife relaxing Dune Chalet
Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
Namibia 2026

Blogger relaxing Dune Chalet


'Night Drive, elusive nocturnal species remain elusive this evening

As darkness falls, we gather around the fire outside the main lodge before enjoying an excellent three-course dinner. Afterwards it is time for one of Bagatelle's popular night drives.

The ranch advertises opportunities to encounter springbok, eland, kudu, giraffe, ostrich, numerous antelope species, meerkats, aardwolves, African wildcats and other nocturnal wildlife.

We climb aboard an open Toyota Land Cruiser and head into the darkness. There is something very special about experiencing the Kalahari at night. The air becomes cooler, unfamiliar scents drift across the dunes and, although the moon is almost full, it has not yet risen above the horizon. We scan the surrounding bush with powerful spotlights, discovering springbok, gemsbok and ostriches in a completely different setting from daylight.

The more elusive nocturnal species remain elusive this evening. No aardwolves, African wildcats or owls for us. Even so, driving silently through the desert beneath a sky filled with stars is an experience that hardly needs rare animals to make it worthwhile.


Night Drive at Bagatelle
Namibia 2026


The following day is intentionally unhurried.

After a generous breakfast buffet—enthusiastically shared with a number of opportunistic birds—we simply enjoy the peaceful surroundings before joining the afternoon activities: a cheetah feeding experience, a nature drive and, of course, a classic Namibian sundowner from the top of one of the red dunes as the sun slowly disappears beyond the horizon.

The nature drive offers several more wildlife sightings, including blue wildebeest and a few particularly rare species that we deliberately choose not to mention here. In an age where information spreads instantly, discretion remains one small way of protecting vulnerable wildlife from those with less honourable intentions.

The cheetah feeding experience feels slightly artificial, as these encounters inevitably do. However, Bagatelle's conservation programme deserves recognition. The resident cheetahs have been rescued from commercial farmland, where they would otherwise most likely have been shot to protect livestock. Here they have relatively large enclosures and professional care. Seeing these magnificent cats up close is impressive, even for us after many previous African safaris. They are noticeably larger and more powerful than many people expect.

As the sun begins to set, we climb one final dune with drinks in hand. Few things symbolise Namibia better than watching the last golden light illuminate the red Kalahari sands while the temperature slowly drops and silence settles across the landscape.


Nature Drive
Kalahari Bagatelle Game Ranch
Namibia 2026

Cheeta feeding
Kalahari Bagatelle Game Ranch
Namibia 2026


Bagatelle, a beautiful desert game reserve

Bagatelle remains one of our favourite places to begin or end a Namibian journey. The location is beautiful, the facilities have been thoughtfully modernised and the level of service is exceptional throughout our stay. The staff deserve particular praise. Friendly, attentive and genuinely welcoming, they elevate an already excellent lodge into something rather special.

If this is your first safari in Africa, Bagatelle offers an excellent introduction to many iconic African species in a spectacular setting. Experienced safari travellers should not expect wildlife densities comparable to Etosha National Park or the great reserves further north. Instead, think of Bagatelle as a beautiful desert game reserve where outstanding hospitality, stunning scenery and relaxed luxury take centre stage. For us, it remains one of those places we are always happy to return to.


Restaurant at Bagatelle
Kalahari Desert
Namibia 2026


Sundowner at Bagatelle
Kalahari Desert
Namibia 2026

Dune Chalet at Bagatelle
Kalahari
Namibia 2026



Saturday, 27 July 2019

If you think Africa equals primitive accommodation and facilities, think over again

You can get exactly what you want (and the wallet allows)

Many connect Africa with primitive accommodation and very simple facilities. It is certainly not our experience. Especially traveling in the southern and central part of Africa; you can get exactly what you want (and the wallet allows) in terms of luxury.

Cheep or expensive does not equal bad or good!

The cheap way to travel in Namibia and Botswana is to bring your own tent and equipment and camp in the middel of the amazing nature. This way of traveling has given us some of our greatest experiences. Perhaps you can get an idea from some of our pictures from previous camp sites:


Our camp "Little Hunters Rest" at Namtib Biosphere Reserve
Tiras Mountains, Namibia 2009

View from tent



The opposite extreme are the luxury lodges. You are welcomed by a waiter with a heated white cloth enabling you to dry the dust off hands and face when you get out of the Land Rover. Then, the next waiter hands you the welcome drink and escort you to a spectacular cottages built of natural materials. From your bed (and often toilet!) you have direct views to plains, desert and/or mountains. In the afternoon, you can cool your body in the infinity pool and watch the parade of elephants and other animals on the plains below. At night, you are served four course menus on thick white tablecloths along with good wines from South Africa. These kind of luxurious places (believe it or not) get boring and impersonal in the long run, but they are very nice to combine with camping and budget places if you can afford it. We always aim for "relaxed luxury", with highly highly qualified nature guides and strong local community involvement, when we stay at such places. Here you can see some of the more luxurious places we have tried:

Etambura Lodge, Kaokoland, Namibia, 2012.
View from bedroom

Dolomite Camp, Etosha, Namibia 2012

Kubu Queen Houseboat, Okavango Delta, Botswana 2012

We clearly prefer a combination of camping, med-range and occasional touch of luxury. We have had some of the greatest experiences sleeping in tents in the nature at ""primitive"" campsites. There is nothing better than camping in beautiful and peaceful surroundings in the middle of Gods own nature. Nothing better than lighting a fire at night and watching the amazing night sky with your family. To listen to all the unfamiliar sounds at night. Perhaps, hear the big "cats" (not too close, I will share some of our experiences in that regard later).

Okavango Delta , Botswana 2012
Look forward to visit again :-)