Showing posts with label Travel Guide. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel Guide. Show all posts

Monday, 10 August 2026

Fish River Canyon – When the Desert Comes Alive


Blogger and brother
Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026
 

After two nights in the Kalahari, we continue southwest towards one of Namibia's greatest natural wonders—the spectacular Fish River Canyon.

Often described as the second-largest canyon in the world after the Grand Canyon, the Fish River Canyon stretches for around 160 kilometres through southern Namibia. At its deepest, the canyon plunges approximately 550 metres below the surrounding plateau, while in places it becomes several kilometres wide. It is an extraordinary landscape of ancient rock, twisted geological formations and seemingly endless dry riverbeds.

The canyon was carved over millions of years, primarily by the Fish River, Namibia's longest river. Today, the river is usually little more than a series of pools and sandy channels, but after heavy rains it can transform dramatically, carrying huge volumes of water through the gorge.

Peculiarly, despite its spectacular scale, Fish River Canyon remains relatively unknown internationally. Compared with the crowds visiting the Grand Canyon or even Namibia's better-known attractions such as Etosha and Sossusvlei, remarkably few travellers make the long journey into southern Namibia. Perhaps that is part of its charm.

For the next two nights we will stay at Fish River Canyon Lodge, which enjoys an extraordinary location right on the edge of the canyon. Few hotels can honestly claim to offer a true "room with a view", but this is certainly one of them.

We have already had the pleasure of staying here once before, when we visited in 2022 [link], and we are particularly excited to show the place to my brother and sister-in-law. There is something slightly wild about staying virtually on the edge of one of Africa's great geological features. Our chalets are perhaps five to ten metres from the precipice, and waking up to the vast canyon stretching across the landscape is an experience that never becomes quite ordinary.


Our two houses, living on the edge
Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026


The Desert Is Blooming!

As we approach the canyon from the north along the D463, we see something we have never experienced during our seven previous trips to Namibia.

The desert is blooming!

The southern part of Namibia has experienced unusually good rainfall over the past couple of years, and the effect on the landscape is remarkable. Much of the vegetation here is adapted to surviving long periods of drought, with seeds and plants capable of remaining dormant until sufficient rain arrives. When the rains finally come, the transformation can be astonishingly rapid.

The normally harsh, barren landscape suddenly becomes covered in grasses and tiny flowers. Many of the plants are succulents or other highly specialised drought-adapted species, including various members of the ice-plant and daisy families. Some appear almost overnight, taking advantage of the brief window when water is available.

It is difficult to imagine that this colourful landscape is the same desert we have driven through on previous visits.

We stop several times to take photographs, something that will become a recurring feature of the next few days. Every few kilometres there seems to be another patch of flowers or an especially photogenic combination of red earth, green vegetation and blue sky.


D463 on the way to Fish River Lodge
Desert blooming!
Namibia 2026

Southern Namibia, desert blooming
Namibia 2026

The Road to the Edge

Eventually we reach the entrance to Fish River Canyon Lodge, where another small adventure awaits.

The final approach involves around 20 kilometres of challenging track across rough, rocky terrain. The journey begins with a rather entertaining descent down a steep concrete ramp, consisting of two narrow tracks that need to be hit rather precisely.

We watch my brother's reaction with some amusement. It is exactly the same mixture of concentration and excitement that we remember from our own first descent here.

Then comes the real reward.

Staff are waiting for us with warm white towels and homemade juice. But the formalities of check-in are quickly forgotten when we walk into the main lodge and see the view through the building towards the pool, the distinctive quiver trees and, beyond them, the enormous canyon.

It is almost impossible to look at anything else.

Fortunately, the staff are used to this. We are eventually persuaded to complete the necessary formalities before being shown to our accommodation.


Pool and terrace, Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026


We have been given two of the best chalets, tucked away in a secluded position right on the canyon edge (see pictore above). Everything is beautifully maintained. There is a comfortable king-size bed positioned to take full advantage of the view, an outdoor shower, a large concrete terrace for sunbathing and a spacious indoor bathroom. Everything is clean, neat and in excellent condition.

The wind can apparently be quite fierce here, and the exposed position means that it can make quite a noise around the chalets. We are fortunate, however, with only a gentle breeze during our stay and, as expected for this time of year, gloriously clear blue skies.

Down into the Canyon


Brother and sister-in-law
Descending into canyon
Namibia 2026

We have booked a full-day 4WD excursion into the Fish River Canyon, an experience we enjoyed on our previous visit in 2022 [link].

It is a spectacular drive.

The track descends through narrow mountain passes and follows the canyon walls, with some sections providing an almost uninterrupted view down into the abyss. It is not an excursion for anyone with a serious fear of heights. Those sitting on the outside of the vehicle occasionally find themselves looking straight down into the canyon with very little between them and many metres of empty space.

We share the vehicle with a friendly Swiss family and are fortunate to have an excellent guide, Justice, who knows both the terrain and the history of the canyon extremely well.


Exciting track into Fich River Canyon
Namibia 2026


One welcome change since our last visit is that the excursion now includes more stops and opportunities to walk. On some of the longer sections, we can get out and hike along the track before being collected further ahead by the support vehicle. It makes the day feel less like simply being driven through the canyon and gives us much more time to appreciate the extraordinary geology and scale of the landscape.

Eventually we reach the last major viewpoint before beginning the descent into the inner canyon.

And here we encounter the consequences of the recent rains.

The track along the mountainside that we followed on our previous visit has been washed away by the unusually heavy rainfall. Around three weeks earlier, approximately 75 mm of rain had fallen in a very short period, enough to cause substantial erosion and completely remove parts of the track.

Our driver takes a longer alternative route, and eventually we reach the canyon floor.

There is one final reward waiting for us: swimming in the Fish River.

 

Wife swimming in Fish River
Namibia 2026
 

The water is cold—very cold—but after a long and dusty drive through the canyon, it is wonderfully refreshing. We spend around two hours at the bottom, enjoying a relaxed lunch served on a newly constructed wooden terrace beneath a huge rock overhang.

It is one of those moments when the effort required to get somewhere makes the experience all the more rewarding.


Relaxing at new wooden terrace
Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026


Eventually it is time to head back up.

The return journey is considerably faster, although the same dramatic scenery remains. By the time we reach the top again, we are tired, slightly dusty and thoroughly satisfied.

It was worth the entire journey to southern Namibia.

A Perfect End to the Day

Back at the lodge, the evening is wonderfully relaxed.

Dinner is served in the beautifully designed main building, where comfortable leather furniture, warm lighting and two wood-burning stoves create a cosy atmosphere. It is winter in the southern hemisphere, and once the sun disappears, temperatures can drop rapidly.


Ready for dinner, Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026


Before dinner on our arrival day, we also managed to squeeze in a beautiful walk to a nearby viewpoint. The trail was relatively short but lead to an excellent vantage point over the canyon and surrounding landscape.

We highly recommend doing this walk if you arrive early enough. There is something particularly satisfying about standing quietly above the canyon just before sunset, knowing that the long drive has finally brought you to one of Namibia's truly extraordinary places.

Fish River Canyon is not simply a destination you visit. It is a landscape you have to travel to—and that effort is very much part of the experience.


Brothers on the edge of Fish River Canyon
Namibia 2026

Our two houses on the left
Fish River Lodge
Namibia 2026

Fish River Lodge chalets
Rim walk, Namibia 2026


Pool and terrace Fiah River Lodge, sunrise
Namibia 2026


Our route from Bagatelle to Fish River Lodge
Add 25% to all Google Map´s timings
Namibia 2026

Friday, 7 August 2026

Back to the Kalahari Desert

Back to the Kalahari – Sharing Our Favourite African Destination


Our Dune Chalet and view Kalahari Desert
Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
Namibia 2026

It is wonderful to finally share our favourite part of Africa with my brother and sister-in-law. After years of talking about Namibia's vast landscapes, extraordinary wildlife and endless open spaces, they are now about to experience it for themselves.

From Windhoek we head south into the Kalahari Desert, where we will spend two nights in one of the spectacular Dune Chalets at Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, perched high on top of the red sand dunes.

Rather than following the obvious route south along the B1, we choose the quieter and far more scenic C23 through the countryside. The road winds its way across Nauaspoort Pass, past the tiny historic German fort at Klein Neuas, before continuing via the C21 and D1268 to Bagatelle.

One thing immediately catches our attention. Compared with our previous visits, Namibia seems cleaner than ever. On previous visits, it was not uncommon to see discarded plastic bottles, cans and other rubbish along some of the roads. Today, it is surprisingly rare. Considerable effort has clearly gone into protecting the country's natural environment, and it shows. Few African countries can match Namibia's combination of well-maintained roads and pristine landscapes.


Sunset over Kalahari Desert
Bagatelle Kalahari Guest Farm
Namibia 2026


Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch, Dune Chalets

Our arrival at Bagatelle sets the tone perfectly. The reception staff greet us with warm, moist towels to refresh our hands and faces, followed by a generous glass of sparkling wine—alcoholic or non-alcoholic, according to preference. After a short tour of the beautifully designed main lodge, we are shown to our two Dune Chalets, each standing on its own private sand dune with uninterrupted views across the Kalahari.

Unlike the dramatic sand seas of the Namib Desert, the Kalahari is a semi-arid sandy savanna. Its characteristic deep red dunes are stabilised by grasses and scattered acacia trees rather than constantly shifting with the wind. The result is a surprisingly green and surprisingly rich ecosystem, supporting an abundance of wildlife despite the dry climate.

We first stayed in these Dune Chalets with our children back in 2009, and although they were already memorable, the accommodation has been upgraded considerably since then. The spacious chalets now stand elegantly on stilts above the sand, each with a large private terrace overlooking the desert.

Inside, a charming claw-foot bathtub faces the panoramic windows. Naturally, it has to be tested. There are certainly worse places in the world to enjoy a hot bath than overlooking the endless red dunes of the Kalahari. A comfortable king-size bed with mosquito nets completes the room, although at this time of year there are virtually no mosquitoes to worry about.


Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
Namibia 2026


Wife relaxing Dune Chalet
Bagatelle Kalahari Game Ranch
Namibia 2026

Blogger relaxing Dune Chalet


'Night Drive, elusive nocturnal species remain elusive this evening

As darkness falls, we gather around the fire outside the main lodge before enjoying an excellent three-course dinner. Afterwards it is time for one of Bagatelle's popular night drives.

The ranch advertises opportunities to encounter springbok, eland, kudu, giraffe, ostrich, numerous antelope species, meerkats, aardwolves, African wildcats and other nocturnal wildlife.

We climb aboard an open Toyota Land Cruiser and head into the darkness. There is something very special about experiencing the Kalahari at night. The air becomes cooler, unfamiliar scents drift across the dunes and, although the moon is almost full, it has not yet risen above the horizon. We scan the surrounding bush with powerful spotlights, discovering springbok, gemsbok and ostriches in a completely different setting from daylight.

The more elusive nocturnal species remain elusive this evening. No aardwolves, African wildcats or owls for us. Even so, driving silently through the desert beneath a sky filled with stars is an experience that hardly needs rare animals to make it worthwhile.


Night Drive at Bagatelle
Namibia 2026


The following day is intentionally unhurried.

After a generous breakfast buffet—enthusiastically shared with a number of opportunistic birds—we simply enjoy the peaceful surroundings before joining the afternoon activities: a cheetah feeding experience, a nature drive and, of course, a classic Namibian sundowner from the top of one of the red dunes as the sun slowly disappears beyond the horizon.

The nature drive offers several more wildlife sightings, including blue wildebeest and a few particularly rare species that we deliberately choose not to mention here. In an age where information spreads instantly, discretion remains one small way of protecting vulnerable wildlife from those with less honourable intentions.

The cheetah feeding experience feels slightly artificial, as these encounters inevitably do. However, Bagatelle's conservation programme deserves recognition. The resident cheetahs have been rescued from commercial farmland, where they would otherwise most likely have been shot to protect livestock. Here they have relatively large enclosures and professional care. Seeing these magnificent cats up close is impressive, even for us after many previous African safaris. They are noticeably larger and more powerful than many people expect.

As the sun begins to set, we climb one final dune with drinks in hand. Few things symbolise Namibia better than watching the last golden light illuminate the red Kalahari sands while the temperature slowly drops and silence settles across the landscape.


Nature Drive
Kalahari Bagatelle Game Ranch
Namibia 2026

Cheeta feeding
Kalahari Bagatelle Game Ranch
Namibia 2026


Bagatelle, a beautiful desert game reserve

Bagatelle remains one of our favourite places to begin or end a Namibian journey. The location is beautiful, the facilities have been thoughtfully modernised and the level of service is exceptional throughout our stay. The staff deserve particular praise. Friendly, attentive and genuinely welcoming, they elevate an already excellent lodge into something rather special.

If this is your first safari in Africa, Bagatelle offers an excellent introduction to many iconic African species in a spectacular setting. Experienced safari travellers should not expect wildlife densities comparable to Etosha National Park or the great reserves further north. Instead, think of Bagatelle as a beautiful desert game reserve where outstanding hospitality, stunning scenery and relaxed luxury take centre stage. For us, it remains one of those places we are always happy to return to.


Restaurant at Bagatelle
Kalahari Desert
Namibia 2026


Sundowner at Bagatelle
Kalahari Desert
Namibia 2026

Dune Chalet at Bagatelle
Kalahari
Namibia 2026



Thursday, 6 August 2026

Relaxing Days in Windhoek

 

Arrival 7:20 with Discovery Airlines (Lufthansa)
Temperature around zero!
Windhoek, Namibia 2026

We arrive in Windhoek two days before my brother and sister-in-law. A perfect opportunity to spend some time exploring Namibia's capital. On our previous trips, Windhoek has simply been a convenient overnight stop before heading straight into the wilderness. This time, we decide to give the city the attention it deserves.

It doesn't take long before we encounter a few obstacles.

The friendly receptionist at Olive Grove Guesthouse assures us that it is perfectly fine to walk the nearly two kilometres into the city centre, provided we stick to Robert Mugabe Drive rather than taking quieter side streets. As in many larger African cities, a little common sense goes a long way. We carry only a small amount of cash, one credit card and keep our phones out of sight unless needed. Watches and "jewellery" stay safely at the guesthouse. With these simple precautions, the walk feels both pleasant and relaxed.


Nice oasis, Olive Grove Guesthouse
Namibia 2026

Anybody Home?

Our sightseeing, however, gets off to a rather disappointing start.

Our first destination, the National Art Gallery of Namibia, is closed for renovations. The next stop, the Owela Museum of Natural History, is also closed. Surely Christuskirche, Windhoek's iconic Lutheran church, will be open? Unfortunately not.

Somewhat ironically, we pass the Ministry of Environment, Forestry and Tourism on our way. Perhaps there is an opportunity here. If Namibia wants visitors to spend an extra day or two in the capital before heading off to Etosha, Sossusvlei or Damaraland, ensuring that the city's main attractions are actually accessible would be a good place to start. After our first two kilometres of sightseeing, Windhoek has not yet managed to convince us.

By now you can probably guess what happens next.

Alte Feste, Windhoek's oldest surviving colonial building, originally constructed by the German Schutztruppe in 1890 as a military headquarters and fortress, is... also closed for renovations.


Christuskirche,
Windhoek's iconic Lutheran church
Namibia 2026


Independence Memorial Museum

Fortunately, we finally find one attraction that is open: the striking Independence Memorial Museum. The building itself is impossible to miss. Designed and built with North Korean assistance, many locals affectionately refer to it as "the coffee maker"—one look at its distinctive silhouette and you'll immediately understand why if you google it.

The museum is well worth a visit. Its exhibitions provide a powerful account of Namibia's colonial past, documenting the brutal oppression, forced displacement and atrocities committed during German colonial rule. It is an important story that deserves to be told.

The historical narrative does, however, occasionally feel a little one-sided. At times, life before colonialism is portrayed as a period of peaceful coexistence among Namibia's peoples—a description that probably deserves a few footnotes. Our travels throughout Africa have repeatedly reminded us that conflicts between kingdoms, tribes and ethnic groups existed long before Europeans arrived. History is rarely black and white.


Namibia´s constitution from  21st MAR 1990,
Independence Memorial Museum
Namibia 2026


High Views and Mixed Reviews

At the top of the museum is a pleasant restaurant offering panoramic views across Windhoek and the surrounding mountains. Or rather, it almost does. For reasons known only to the architect, the terrace railings are so high that you cannot really enjoy the view while sitting down. Fortunately, standing up solves the problem.

Our favourite stop of the day turns out to be the Namibia Craft Centre. It is a delightful oasis of high-quality local crafts, with fixed and fair prices, making it easy to browse without feeling pressured. In the centre of the courtyard is a lovely café that serves an excellent lunch, and secure parking is available just below. This is definitely a place we would recommend.

In the evening, we dine at Heinitzburg Restaurant, perched high on a hillside overlooking Windhoek. The service is friendly, the setting elegant and the views magnificent. Our seafood tasting menu, however, proves to be—let's just say—a somewhat mixed culinary experience. Next time, we would happily choose one of the restaurant's meat dishes instead. We are already looking forward to our reservation at Stellenbosch Wine Bar and Bistro later in the trip.


Namibia Craft Centre,
Windhoek, Namibia 2026

Heinitzburg Restaurant,
mixed culinary experience,
Namibia 2026


Brother and sister-in-law arrive

It´s Saturday, and my brother and sister-in-law arrive after an entirely straightforward journey and a smooth visa-on-arrival process at Windhoek Airport. Thanks to our reconnaissance, they can skip all the closed attractions and head straight for the Independence Memorial Museum, lunch at the Namibia Craft Centre café, a relaxing afternoon at Olive Grove Guesthouse and dinner at Joe's Beerhouse.

Joe's Beerhouse delivers exactly what you would expect. A lively atmosphere, friendly service and generous portions, with game and grilled meat taking centre stage. Vegetarians may find better options elsewhere, but for anyone wanting a classic, slightly heavy, Namibian dining experience, it remains a reliable choice.


Joe's Beerhouse,
Windhoek, Namibia 2026


More Gateway Than Destination

After spending a couple of days in Windhoek, our overall impression remains much the same. The city works well as Namibia's gateway, but it has yet to realise its full potential as a destination in its own right. That feels like a missed opportunity. Windhoek has an interesting history, an attractive setting and plenty of character. With easier access to its cultural attractions and a stronger focus on the visitor experience, many travellers might be tempted to stay just a little longer before setting off to explore one of Africa's most spectacular countries


Olive Grove Guesthouse
Namibia 2026

Olive Grove Guesthouse
Namibia 2026
Independence Memorial Museum
Namibia 2026